I tried watching a dozen different videos on how to make an ash glaze, 15-20 minutes and they still didn't say what they were going to use. Or they started talking about all sorts of exotic materials. They made it complicated AF. Thank you very much for your very simple explanation on how to make a very basic glaze, it was what I was looking for. Thank you.
I have also seen many video about glazing and always I encounter some dificulties, as the fine particles which is necessary to separate with a sodium silicat.
Thank you Captain! I live in the Amazonian region of Brazil and this technique has been used here by indigenous people for thousands of years. The type of ash and pigments both organic and mineral have an effect on color and pattern. It's something that is becoming more rare and happy to see you keeping the tradition alive even if it wasn't your intention. Just subscribed and am looking forward to binging on your videos!
David, thanks for the interesting information of the history of ash glazes. And thanks for watching my videos. I am always open to suggestions for content.
Yeah, fire that rascal and see what you get! I remember reading in the Foxfire books in the 1970s where old timers would mill frit from a coke bottle and use that in their glaze. Always wanted to try that. More dreams than time these days!
Thank you for the info. I’m not a potter, I don’t even play one on TV, lol. I fish the Mississippi River near St. Louis, needed some good clay to plug some holes in my forge. Had some left over so I cleaned it and want to make fishing weight molds to cast some lead. If that doesn’t work then I’ll just make clay fishing weights. But I’m rambling, thought I’d send some info back your way, charcoal brickettes are about 30% clay, 40% for the dollar store variety. Also be wary about using wild cherry for anything as it contains natural arsenic, enough to give some people blisters where shavings or sawdust touches sweaty skin, it damn near swelled my eyes shut turning some on the lathe. Just be careful. As I said, thank you for the information, I’ll save my ashes from my stove in the shop this winter and by spring I’ll have glaze!
Man I love me some pecan trees! When I was a kid my papa and I would gather a couple trash bags whole pecans from my aunt's house and sit on the porch all day long crackin and eating them during the summer time, one of my favorite childhood memories... a lot of pallets made with pine too I know because I like use them 4 forging Steel and when you turn that pallet wood into charcoal that burns hotter than any Hardwood charcoal you can make or find which is mostly what's around here besides red cedar it burns hot too but fast
Capt Mike ! - Thank you so much for your GREAT video !!! - I' m going to the beach to find some driftwood ash to take back to my clay studio to make a simple ash glaze. Wow!
thank you. nice video,,you explained it so everyone understands. but i have one question. my thing is cement pots and ive gotten pretty good at it. is it possible to glaze a cement pot with your method. im sure that once they have cured they can withstand the heat of a kiln. but im not sure of how it might shrink or swell. could it work?
If you are talking about a pot made entirely from cement then I would have to say no. Cement, plaster and hypertufa, a hybred cement mix will blow up if fired in a kiln. Thanks for the question. Someone my have an idea that will work.
Hi Capt Mike, greetings from the uk this evening! Just wanted to say thanks for the very useful & straightforward vid on ash glazes. I’ve been considering having a go at one of these for a while (as I have a inexhaustible supply of ashes from various sources) and your demo has given me the confidence to have a go. Love the simple recipe and experimental attitude, life would be so boring if one of us ever “had a go” at stuff. Many thanks again & best wishes, Natalie
Great vid hoss I have going back to our roots trying to be less wasteful and use more natural renewable resources. This was a great help. Keep on keeping on!
Loved this video .. thank you for sharing .. just starting my pottery journey and found this to explain ball clay .. as wondered if it could be substituted for other clays .. so found this explanation really helpful: - ^Ball clays are kaolinitic sedimentary clays that commonly consist of 20-80% kaolinite, 10-25% mica, 6-65% quartz. ... They are fine-grained and plastic in nature, and, unlike most earthenware clays, produce a fine quality white-coloured pottery body when fired, which is the key to their popularity with potters.^
Thank you so much Capt Mike, I have been wondering about this for quite some time, and just happen to run into your video ... very clear explanation (really liked going through the process), very simple (although the tech speak about pottery sort of went over my head), but now I actually know how to make Ash glaze and that means a lot to me. And i'm not even a potter, but i am just interested in a lot of things (some of which is our human history, and seeing how pottery has been so important i thus want to know stuff about it (that said though, i do have an inclination for crafts, so who knows i might pick up pottery some day)), so i knew that Ash glazing (one of the first glazes we actually used) was possible, just didn't know how to make them (other than perhaps coat the thing in ash?). But now i know, so from my perspective this gets two thumbs up !! btw. I also like your pottery ! ... have fun making it, experimenting with it, and tnx again for also sharing it !!
17:45 I'm no expert potter and can only speculate what the clay does in the glaze, but I'm guessing it's to bond the shiny stuff (the ash) to the already existing clay in the pot by use of cohesion- that is similar or same substances bonding to one another. To go another step further in my explanation, I'd guess the clay is also bonding to the ash by use of adhesion. IOW, the clay in the glaze mix is the middle man between the clay pot and the shiny melted ash. Thanks for the upload- very interesting and straight forward presentation.
Oo! This! Thanks!!! I always wondered how one would glaze pottery to make it relatively food safe cause i always see people making primitive kilns and such, but no glazes
This is great to get me started on experimenting. I also am too old to have to do everything in great scientific detail...I am for having fun while learning and you have given a great starting point. I liked your walk in the woods and your burning method. I will have it to adapt to my suburban setting. Nice examples too!
l have a old backyard furnace l am thinking to make it into a wood fired pottery kiln.. l am guessing the highest temperature would be glowing Orange? Would these glazes work? Or ls the temperature too low ? Thankyou for your time ❤
It helps a lot! Thank you so much. I a, so new to make ash glazes. Sorry if it is a dumb question... If I use this ash glaze on dinnerware, is it food safe? Or do I have to apply clear glaze to make it safe? Also the ash glazes are runny? Do I have to use stilt under the ash glazed pieces in the kiln? Thank you!
Mike great video. I,m a beginner & process wild clay. The last I just did was okla red clay. What temp would that clay be rated for. I also have excess to some river clay that is grey Like some you had. What temp would the gray clay take? I,m really looking forward to trying Your glaze recipe. Thank you my friend.
Jim, I'm not sure what it would be rated to, but I fie my "wild" clay to around cone 6 with no problems. My clay comes off the Broad River here in Georgia.
You can make a sieve yourself with a plastic bucket, screen, and a thrift store griddle. Cut the bottom off of a cheap 5 gal bucket. Easy to do on a table saw. The I like to cut another ring about 3 to 4 inches from the bottom. Slide that ring into the bucket to double the thickness of the bucket wall. Heat your griddle to 450 F. Place a square a *metal* screen on the griddle as flat as you can. Then put the bucket on top. The plastic will melt, and ooze into the screen. Once you have good penetration of the screen into the plastic remove and let cool. I trim the excess screen with scissors. I then use snub nose wire cutters to trim the melted plastic around the edge. Window screen works well, but you can also use a cheap stainless steel splatter screen.
Thanks for the suggestion Jerry. I have not made one like that, but I have made them from wood with various screen mesh sizes. I also use the cheap dollar store strainers for medium stiff as well as the aforementioned splatter screen.
Hopefully someone can help me, I would like to know whether or not wood ash glazes are food safe. As I would like to ensure that lye or other alkalines won't leach into the food and what not. But the only way I can assure that may not happen would be to use an electric kiln that could fire at cone 6, which I do not have nor have the space or money for. Instead, I use a wood fired kiln. Would the wood ash glaze be safe for cookware in such a kiln or would I have to find a different glazing method ?
Hi there, maybe you could add some of the bigger chunks from the sieving to your clay to add texture to your clay. There's a book on all the kinds of things you can add to your clay and I reckon those chunks would be great. And I always add the dry to the wet so I'd put a bit of water in and add some dry and then keep doing that so it doesn't glug up. Adding water to dry ingredients is a bit clumpy. We learned this when we did cooking with our mamma. :-) The book is Additions to Clay bodies by Kathleen Standen.
Yes, sometimes adding a little "grog" to the clay will enhance it depending on what you are working on. Sand, crushed mussle shells and such have been used for years.
I'm not sure. I know the ash glaze has a potential to fire high and as I understand salt glazing, the high temps are what causes the salt to vaperize and condense on the ceramics.....am I anywhere close?
Thank you for that instruction. It was very helpful. (I don't know what "cones" means, though) I wish you had fired it, now I am vested and want to see how that bowl turns out. 😀
"Cone" referes to the temperature the clay or glaze is fired to. You can find a chart here: lakesidepottery.com/HTML%20Text/Tips/Tempruturerange.htm. There are many other charts.
Olga, go here for a list of the Cone temps: clay-king.com/kilns/pyrometric_cone_temperature_chart.html I use the second column (temp at 108F/hr). The temp @ 108F/hr just means how fast you are ramping up your kiln. If you still need help just ask.
@@CaptMike thanks a lot! I think now it's clear. I just convert F to Celsius as we're not using the Fahrenheit system. As far as I understood firing lower than 1200 C will not turn the ash into glazing. Right? In other words cone 4 is not enough for ash glazing?
@@lesterjennings4044 There are no dumb questions. Bisque is the fired state of dry clay. First you create what you want with wet clay, either a clay body or slip. Then you let that dry and fire it to cone 04, or about 1900 to 2000 degrees F. At that point the clay has become bisque or ceramic. It will no longer desolve in water and should have a ring to it when lightly struck.
@@CaptMike don't know about cone mine is done out side in fire pit first fire was successful now thanks to your information I will try to make glaze wish me luck
If you are making a cup or small bowl, just fill it with water and let it sit. If it is not water proof the level will fall pretty quick and the outside will be moist.
@@Opernkabarett I would think a properly glazed piece, say to come 06 or better would be water proof. There is some debate on what glazes are food safe, but you would have to consume a lot from a non food safe glazed piece to do you any harm. Not familiar with finishing stonepolish.
@@CaptMike thank you! I know a little about ancient american pottery. They didn't fire above 950 °Celsius. So they had to use other tricks 😀. Since I collect my own clay, I am eager to learn more diy-stuff, like your idea!
@@Opernkabarett 950 c is about 1745 F. That's about cone 07 and ill do a fair bisque or glaze. Tell me about some of the tricks. That stuff is really interesting.
I'm just curious if you ever noticed the ashes of ebony are rust brown? Im pretty sure it is ebony, because I salvaged the black keys from a piano someone abandoned in the weather. As a wood worker I was keen to salvage the hardwood pieces. One was severely splintered and I decided to burn a piece to detect if it was oily and detect its scent. It has a very pleasant aroma, sweetish, akin to sandalwood but not as pungent. It burned as an ember right down to ashes. What is interesting is the ash is rust brown, not a black or white speck among them. Searching google has been a useless, vain task. I just get articles on ash trees, or ebony incense burners.
so if i made clay out of dirt and then glazed it with ash glaze.. i could use it to make a pot or a cup and drink from it ? i remember reading about some clay types are bad for you so i can't be sure, thought i'd ask if you knew
robin, if you process your clay from a un-contaminated place, make a vessel from it and bisque fire it to cone 04 (1830 to 1940 F) and then used a cone 5 or 6 ash glaze (2165 - 2265 F) At these temps all organic material that might be harmful has burnt away. It should be safe enough to use.
@@CaptMike i was kinda thinking doing it all natural and make even the oven to bake the clay. not sure i could get the fire that hot if i'm fanning the flame by hand or with a tool using my hands.
@@robinchwan It is difficult to reach the temps needed to "cook" the clay in a open fire without thermal shock (pots cracking). A oven will not get hot enough no matter what you do. You need to reach temps around 1700 to 2000 degrees F to reach bisque. Clay is cheap and if you live where you can have a fire all night I would give it a try.
@@CaptMike well i know that the home made furnace i was thinking of making will be able to melt iron copper glass etc so i think it's atleast a fair bit over 1000 degrees ( though you need to keep the flame going as you said)
I'm curious if sifting down so fine is needed though? It might be easier to just take out the biggest chunks, and then mix it into the water. Just agitate the water, and then pour it off after a few seconds. The larger particles will stay in the first container, kind of like a cyclone separator. You would save quite quite a bit of time, and possibly lose less to the wind? Thank you very much for the interesting, and informative video.
The wind is never a problem, but if you sift the clay too fine it will shrink too much and may give you problems. If you are going to use the clay in a homemade glaze, then the finer the better. I find that for molding you will need a little "grog" or bigger particles suspended in the clay body to make it fire right. As with any DIY materials, a little experimentation goes a long ways. Thanks for the comment.
@@CaptMike I didn't know that was what grog did. Thank you. I was only thinking of glazes, as I assume that they make higher quality pottery faster. Specifically, I mean that the self-smoothing texture of the glaze provides protection from bumps that would otherwise need to be burnished off. Your video and comments have been very interesting, I'm going to go by a local park and take some ashes from a fire pit or two. Thank you!
@@Zaniahiononzenbei Hope t works out for you. I am going to make an ash glaze video on using charcoal ash soon. Haven't tried iot yet, but looks promising.
In this video I used a local clay that had been bisqued to cone 04. I have used the ash glaze on commercial high to medium fire clay. Anything will work as long as it will fire to at least cone 6.
@@CaptMike I'm a beginer and I use a wood fired kiln, do you think I can reach a temperature of 1200°C? At the moment I cant find cones because of the virus but are you talking about cone 06 or 6? And is there a way you can tell temperature without cones? Sorry for bothering!
I wonder if its silica that remains in the ash that melts and causes a shine. If that is true, I wonder how horsetail weeds burned to an ash would do. Horsetail is medicinally high in silica.
Hi... First of all, thanks for making this video. I was a little unclear on one detail, however. The clay you use in the suspension to make the ash glaze... Does it have to be fired before it's ground up, or just dried out really thoroughly? You may have said it and I missed it, but I was just a little confused on that little detail.
The clay is not fired before you add it. You can add it moist or dry it out. You will have to experiment a little to make it work the way you like. Thanks for watching.
Christina, not exactly sure what you mean. Cookware that has already had glaze applied and fired would not work; too slick. Corelle type cookware is made from two pieces of glass specially fired. Glaze adheres to pottery primarily by absorption. After pottery has been fired much above cone 01 or 02 it starts to vitrify and becomes less poros, therefore less able to hold th glaze. Hope this helps.
@@CaptMike I made a Crock-Pot from stoneware I also made a few from 3 different types of earthware clay I found in my backyard. My question is, would ashglaze be food and oven safe?
@@christinatakesphotos I could not say for sure, but if you are firing the glaze high enough I do not see why it would not be safe. I have to fire my ash glazes pretty high, say about cone 6 or so. That should be high enough to burn off anything questionable. I would try a test piece, say a small bowl or something like that and see if it will hold water without seeping back through. If your pieces make it though glazing, they should stand up to the oven ok. I have never tested anything in the oven. I'll have to try that!
Yes, I have experimented with firing in a 55 gallon drum and in the ground. Depending on the additives you add to the fire you can achieve smoke clouds and various chemical colors, but it it is all hit and miss. I still like playing around with it occasionally. If I don;rt have a video on doing this I will make one.
are your ash glazes, and ash glazes in general (clay, water, ash) safe for eating and drinking from? I want to glaze my coffee cups, and i'm a true novice, haven't even fired my electric kiln up yet, trying to get up to speed. Great video, thanks for posting!
I fire my ash glaze to about cone 6, 2194 F. (1201 C.). Do a test first. All kilns fire differently. Also make sure the clay you use is a mid to high fire clay, otherwise you will end up with a mess in your kiln....ask me how I know!
The basic ash glaze which is only clay, water and pure wood ash fired to cone 7 should be food safe. However, I have seen nothing on the net that says so. I would feel safe using it, but to be sure I will see what I can dig up.
I tried watching a dozen different videos on how to make an ash glaze, 15-20 minutes and they still didn't say what they were going to use. Or they started talking about all sorts of exotic materials. They made it complicated AF. Thank you very much for your very simple explanation on how to make a very basic glaze, it was what I was looking for. Thank you.
Wishing you good luck with your glaze! Thanks for watching.
I have also seen many video about glazing and always I encounter some dificulties, as the fine particles which is necessary to separate with a sodium silicat.
equal amounts sifted Ash and Clay with water. Simple and effective. Thank you sir.
Thank you Captain! I live in the Amazonian region of Brazil and this technique has been used here by indigenous people for thousands of years. The type of ash and pigments both organic and mineral have an effect on color and pattern. It's something that is becoming more rare and happy to see you keeping the tradition alive even if it wasn't your intention. Just subscribed and am looking forward to binging on your videos!
David, thanks for the interesting information of the history of ash glazes. And thanks for watching my videos. I am always open to suggestions for content.
Simplicity is what I was looking for. Thanks
Thanks for watching!
That dark glaze from the variety of ash types is spectacular!
Thanks!
Out standing video, clear, simple and to the point! Thank you.
Thanks for watyching and for the kind comment!
Very valuable. Can't wait to add glaze to my pottery! Just started on my journey. Thank you!
Yeah, fire that rascal and see what you get! I remember reading in the Foxfire books in the 1970s where old timers would mill frit from a coke bottle and use that in their glaze. Always wanted to try that. More dreams than time these days!
This really helped me have a better understanding of where glazes started. Thank you!
Thank you for watching!
Best explanation of glaze ever.
Thanks for watching!
I just got into pottery. It's fun learning.
Thank you for the lesson!
With that bit you tossed out you could add into your soil mix! Plants love it
I had not thought of that.. Great idea.
That is about as simple as it gets. I had no idea ash melted. I cant wait to try it out.
Good luck and thanks for watching!
Thank you for the info. I’m not a potter, I don’t even play one on TV, lol. I fish the Mississippi River near St. Louis, needed some good clay to plug some holes in my forge. Had some left over so I cleaned it and want to make fishing weight molds to cast some lead. If that doesn’t work then I’ll just make clay fishing weights. But I’m rambling, thought I’d send some info back your way, charcoal brickettes are about 30% clay, 40% for the dollar store variety. Also be wary about using wild cherry for anything as it contains natural arsenic, enough to give some people blisters where shavings or sawdust touches sweaty skin, it damn near swelled my eyes shut turning some on the lathe. Just be careful. As I said, thank you for the information, I’ll save my ashes from my stove in the shop this winter and by spring I’ll have glaze!
Michael-John Mushill thank you! Send me a you tube video on how to make a forge
@@lunalocks5605 have you seen the tiny forge they made on King of Random?
Really enjoyed this video, really simple and clear to understand
Man I love me some pecan trees! When I was a kid my papa and I would gather a couple trash bags whole pecans from my aunt's house and sit on the porch all day long crackin and eating them during the summer time, one of my favorite childhood memories... a lot of pallets made with pine too I know because I like use them 4 forging Steel and when you turn that pallet wood into charcoal that burns hotter than any Hardwood charcoal you can make or find which is mostly what's around here besides red cedar it burns hot too but fast
Thanks for the comment and for watching!
As simple as that!! What a wonderful thing to do! you saved me a headache with all the other ash glaze videos on the internet... Thank you so much!
Thank YOU for watching my video!
I love it! Thanks for sharing! So relaxing.
Thanks you for watching mu video!
Great video!
Really enjoyed your personality :)
Capt Mike ! - Thank you so much for your GREAT video !!! - I' m going to the beach to find some driftwood ash to take back to my clay studio to make a simple ash glaze. Wow!
Let me know how it turns out! Thanks for watching!
Interesting! Thank's for sharing!!
Thank you for watching!
thank you. nice video,,you explained it so everyone understands. but i have one question. my thing is cement pots and ive gotten pretty good at it. is it possible to glaze a cement pot with your method. im sure that once they have cured they can withstand the heat of a kiln. but im not sure of how it might shrink or swell. could it work?
If you are talking about a pot made entirely from cement then I would have to say no. Cement, plaster and hypertufa, a hybred cement mix will blow up if fired in a kiln. Thanks for the question. Someone my have an idea that will work.
Awesome! Thank you - great tutorial!
Thanks for watching!
Hi Capt Mike, greetings from the uk this evening! Just wanted to say thanks for the very useful & straightforward vid on ash glazes. I’ve been considering having a go at one of these for a while (as I have a inexhaustible supply of ashes from various sources) and your demo has given me the confidence to have a go. Love the simple recipe and experimental attitude, life would be so boring if one of us ever “had a go” at stuff.
Many thanks again & best wishes, Natalie
This is exactly what iv been looking for.
Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching!
Thanks a lot you are good man
Thank YOU for watching!
Hello, thank you so much for this. I love just having a go at things. I’m going to do some experiments of my own now!
Thanks for watching and good luck with your endevors!
I'm new to pottery and I am so enjoying your videos - thank you 😊
Thank you for watching and if you need help, just let me know.
Great vid hoss I have going back to our roots trying to be less wasteful and use more natural renewable resources. This was a great help. Keep on keeping on!
Thanks for the nice comment and thank you for watching my video!
thank you for being a steward of the land
Thank you for watching my video!
Loved this video .. thank you for sharing .. just starting my pottery journey and found this to explain ball clay .. as wondered if it could be substituted for other clays .. so found this explanation really helpful: -
^Ball clays are kaolinitic sedimentary clays that commonly consist of 20-80% kaolinite, 10-25% mica, 6-65% quartz. ... They are fine-grained and plastic in nature, and, unlike most earthenware clays, produce a fine quality white-coloured pottery body when fired, which is the key to their popularity with potters.^
Thanks for the comment and for watching my video!
Gracias, me gusto. fácil explicación. Lo haré y subiré los resultados. Saludos.
Fascinating, thank you!
Thanks you for watching!
Ball of clay is there to 'stick' the glaze on to the body, as far as i know..
Thank you for all these experiments. I appreciate.
Regards
Thank you so much Capt Mike, I have been wondering about this for quite some time, and just happen to run into your video ... very clear explanation (really liked going through the process), very simple (although the tech speak about pottery sort of went over my head), but now I actually know how to make Ash glaze and that means a lot to me. And i'm not even a potter, but i am just interested in a lot of things (some of which is our human history, and seeing how pottery has been so important i thus want to know stuff about it (that said though, i do have an inclination for crafts, so who knows i might pick up pottery some day)), so i knew that Ash glazing (one of the first glazes we actually used) was possible, just didn't know how to make them (other than perhaps coat the thing in ash?). But now i know, so from my perspective this gets two thumbs up !!
btw. I also like your pottery ! ... have fun making it, experimenting with it, and tnx again for also sharing it !!
I’ve been looking for this information thank you 🙏🏻
Thank you for watching!
thanks for sharing
And thank you for watching and commenting!
17:45 I'm no expert potter and can only speculate what the clay does in the glaze, but I'm guessing it's to bond the shiny stuff (the ash) to the already existing clay in the pot by use of cohesion- that is similar or same substances bonding to one another. To go another step further in my explanation, I'd guess the clay is also bonding to the ash by use of adhesion. IOW, the clay in the glaze mix is the middle man between the clay pot and the shiny melted ash.
Thanks for the upload- very interesting and straight forward presentation.
thank you really enjoyed the class!!
Thank you for watching!
Thanks for the simple tips :)
Oo!
This!
Thanks!!! I always wondered how one would glaze pottery to make it relatively food safe
cause
i always see people making primitive kilns and such, but no glazes
Thanks for watching. I hope you try it .
Thanks I'm going to try this
Let me know how it works out for you.
Thank goodness, directions that don't require a special ingredient you have to order!
Hope it works for you. Thanks for watching.
That may explain why glazes have such high prices. Hmm.
This is great to get me started on experimenting. I also am too old to have to do everything in great scientific detail...I am for having fun while learning and you have given a great starting point. I liked your walk in the woods and your burning method. I will have it to adapt to my suburban setting. Nice examples too!
Thank YOU for watching my video!
This is worth a try! Giving ya a 🤘 your a brave man!
Is the "river clay" necessary? Can I just use reclaim commercial clay, since I don't have ready access to river clay?
Thank You soooo Much Mike !!!
Thank you for watching!
Is the reason for the clay for affinity/bonding with the pottery? 🤔 Peace and Health
Yes, the clay helps with bonding and also adds body to the glaze.
@@CaptMike Thank you 🙏🏼
Great video
do you fire the dish or pot first then glaze and fire again ? or do you glaze be fore firing.
I bisque fire first then glaze and refire.
Thank you, this was great!
l have a old backyard furnace l am thinking to make it into a wood fired pottery kiln.. l am guessing the highest temperature would be glowing Orange?
Would these glazes work? Or ls the temperature too low ?
Thankyou for your time ❤
It helps a lot! Thank you so much. I a, so new to make ash glazes. Sorry if it is a dumb question... If I use this ash glaze on dinnerware, is it food safe? Or do I have to apply clear glaze to make it safe?
Also the ash glazes are runny? Do I have to use stilt under the ash glazed pieces in the kiln?
Thank you!
I would think that it would be food safe, but I have never read where ask glase was or was not foord safe.
Mike great video. I,m a beginner & process wild clay. The last I just did was okla red clay. What temp would that clay be rated for. I also have excess to some river clay that is grey
Like some you had. What temp would the gray clay take? I,m really looking forward to trying
Your glaze recipe. Thank you my friend.
Jim, I'm not sure what it would be rated to, but I fie my "wild" clay to around cone 6 with no problems. My clay comes off the Broad River here in Georgia.
You can make a sieve yourself with a plastic bucket, screen, and a thrift store griddle. Cut the bottom off of a cheap 5 gal bucket. Easy to do on a table saw. The I like to cut another ring about 3 to 4 inches from the bottom. Slide that ring into the bucket to double the thickness of the bucket wall. Heat your griddle to 450 F. Place a square a *metal* screen on the griddle as flat as you can. Then put the bucket on top. The plastic will melt, and ooze into the screen. Once you have good penetration of the screen into the plastic remove and let cool. I trim the excess screen with scissors. I then use snub nose wire cutters to trim the melted plastic around the edge. Window screen works well, but you can also use a cheap stainless steel splatter screen.
Thanks for the suggestion Jerry. I have not made one like that, but I have made them from wood with various screen mesh sizes. I also use the cheap dollar store strainers for medium stiff as well as the aforementioned splatter screen.
Beautiful work. I have question did the ash glaze make pottery waterproof (I have 0 experience in ash glaze)
I have not done any experiments to see if it was completely waterproof, but I would guess it would be.
Wyatt about using borax to lower the melting point of the glaze?
Thanks for the suggestion. I will have to try that.
Hopefully someone can help me,
I would like to know whether or not wood ash glazes are food safe. As I would like to ensure that lye or other alkalines won't leach into the food and what not.
But the only way I can assure that may not happen would be to use an electric kiln that could fire at cone 6, which I do not have nor have the space or money for.
Instead, I use a wood fired kiln. Would the wood ash glaze be safe for cookware in such a kiln or would I have to find a different glazing method ?
I would think it would be safe, but not sure.
This is guys voice is so wholesome lol
Thanks for watching the video....I hope that comment is a compliment!
Hi there, maybe you could add some of the bigger chunks from the sieving to your clay to add texture to your clay. There's a book on all the kinds of things you can add to your clay and I reckon those chunks would be great. And I always add the dry to the wet so I'd put a bit of water in and add some dry and then keep doing that so it doesn't glug up. Adding water to dry ingredients is a bit clumpy. We learned this when we did cooking with our mamma. :-) The book is Additions to Clay bodies by Kathleen Standen.
Yes, sometimes adding a little "grog" to the clay will enhance it depending on what you are working on. Sand, crushed mussle shells and such have been used for years.
Can you share what book that is? Im interested in exploring more about textures. Thanks!
are you in the black land prairies? the foliage seems very similar to where i live
No, I live in Elberton, Georgia.
Could you use this to paint and decorate pottery that will be salt glazed?
I'm not sure. I know the ash glaze has a potential to fire high and as I understand salt glazing, the high temps are what causes the salt to vaperize and condense on the ceramics.....am I anywhere close?
Hi! I was wondering if someone already tried to fire home made ash glaze below 1200C/cone 6? And did that work out?
Hopefully some will comment. I usually use cone 6 though.
I tried! It doesn’t work if you’re looking for a similar result as shown in your video. But it does give a cool, kind of vulcano-stone-ish-look ;-)
Wish I knew stuff like this 50 years ago.
Me too! Thanks for watching.
Thank u for this simple, straightforward intro to glazing. Cant wait to give this a whirl.
Even I can follow that recipe.
Thanks for watching!
A good place to throw those extra ashes is in a garden ash also can clean a stagnant pond
I soke my pièces in milk let it dry then heat it up.on a electric stove and exposed it until.i like the color
Thank you for that instruction. It was very helpful. (I don't know what "cones" means, though)
I wish you had fired it, now I am vested and want to see how that bowl turns out. 😀
"Cone" referes to the temperature the clay or glaze is fired to. You can find a chart here: lakesidepottery.com/HTML%20Text/Tips/Tempruturerange.htm. There are many other charts.
sorry, what temp do you mean when you say cone 4, 5, 6? i was a bit confused with all those charts i found in the internet
Olga, go here for a list of the Cone temps: clay-king.com/kilns/pyrometric_cone_temperature_chart.html I use the second column (temp at 108F/hr). The temp @ 108F/hr just means how fast you are ramping up your kiln. If you still need help just ask.
@@CaptMike thanks a lot! I think now it's clear. I just convert F to Celsius as we're not using the Fahrenheit system. As far as I understood firing lower than 1200 C will not turn the ash into glazing. Right? In other words cone 4 is not enough for ash glazing?
@@olganikolayeva2568 as a rule I find the at cone 6 things start to happen with home made ash glaze. Let me know how it works out for you.
Thanks ❤
Thank you for watching!
lol! thank you sharing! please exercise care whilst traipsing in the wood!😂
I always try to keep my eyes open!😉
Do you fire it first then glaze and fire again or just fire all at once
I always fire to bisque then glaze and refire.
@@CaptMike thank you dumb question what is bisque?
@@lesterjennings4044 There are no dumb questions. Bisque is the fired state of dry clay. First you create what you want with wet clay, either a clay body or slip. Then you let that dry and fire it to cone 04, or about 1900 to 2000 degrees F. At that point the clay has become bisque or ceramic. It will no longer desolve in water and should have a ring to it when lightly struck.
@@CaptMike don't know about cone mine is done out side in fire pit first fire was successful now thanks to your information I will try to make glaze wish me luck
@@lesterjennings4044 You are doing the same thing in an open fire. Pit firing is old as dirt. 😁 but gets you to the same place. Good luck!
Great video. Can you tell how water“proof“ this glaze is?
If you are making a cup or small bowl, just fill it with water and let it sit. If it is not water proof the level will fall pretty quick and the outside will be moist.
@@CaptMike this means, it CAN be waterproof? I know about finishing stonepolish ...
@@Opernkabarett I would think a properly glazed piece, say to come 06 or better would be water proof. There is some debate on what glazes are food safe, but you would have to consume a lot from a non food safe glazed piece to do you any harm. Not familiar with finishing stonepolish.
@@CaptMike thank you! I know a little about ancient american pottery. They didn't fire above 950 °Celsius. So they had to use other tricks 😀. Since I collect my own clay, I am eager to learn more diy-stuff, like your idea!
@@Opernkabarett 950 c is about 1745 F. That's about cone 07 and ill do a fair bisque or glaze. Tell me about some of the tricks. That stuff is really interesting.
ty from australia
Thank you for watching!
Will this glaze help make the fired pottery water proof? I'm just doing my research before I start.
Glaze helps some. but firing the clay tocone 6 or better makes the clay waterproof....more or less.....comments?
@@CaptMike Thank you sir.
I'm just curious if you ever noticed the ashes of ebony are rust brown? Im pretty sure it is ebony, because I salvaged the black keys from a piano someone abandoned in the weather. As a wood worker I was keen to salvage the hardwood pieces. One was severely splintered and I decided to burn a piece to detect if it was oily and detect its scent. It has a very pleasant aroma, sweetish, akin to sandalwood but not as pungent. It burned as an ember right down to ashes. What is interesting is the ash is rust brown, not a black or white speck among them. Searching google has been a useless, vain task. I just get articles on ash trees, or ebony incense burners.
I have examples of many exotic species for my wood work, but have never burned any of them, I don't have an example of Ebony. Interesting!
so if i made clay out of dirt and then glazed it with ash glaze.. i could use it to make a pot or a cup and drink from it ? i remember reading about some clay types are bad for you so i can't be sure, thought i'd ask if you knew
robin, if you process your clay from a un-contaminated place, make a vessel from it and bisque fire it to cone 04 (1830 to 1940 F) and then used a cone 5 or 6 ash glaze (2165 - 2265 F) At these temps all organic material that might be harmful has burnt away. It should be safe enough to use.
@@CaptMike i was kinda thinking doing it all natural and make even the oven to bake the clay. not sure i could get the fire that hot if i'm fanning the flame by hand or with a tool using my hands.
@@robinchwan It is difficult to reach the temps needed to "cook" the clay in a open fire without thermal shock (pots cracking). A oven will not get hot enough no matter what you do. You need to reach temps around 1700 to 2000 degrees F to reach bisque. Clay is cheap and if you live where you can have a fire all night I would give it a try.
@@CaptMike well i know that the home made furnace i was thinking of making will be able to melt iron copper glass etc so i think it's atleast a fair bit over 1000 degrees ( though you need to keep the flame going as you said)
@@robinchwan sounds good. Keep me posted on your progress.
I'm curious if sifting down so fine is needed though? It might be easier to just take out the biggest chunks, and then mix it into the water. Just agitate the water, and then pour it off after a few seconds. The larger particles will stay in the first container, kind of like a cyclone separator.
You would save quite quite a bit of time, and possibly lose less to the wind?
Thank you very much for the interesting, and informative video.
The wind is never a problem, but if you sift the clay too fine it will shrink too much and may give you problems. If you are going to use the clay in a homemade glaze, then the finer the better. I find that for molding you will need a little "grog" or bigger particles suspended in the clay body to make it fire right. As with any DIY materials, a little experimentation goes a long ways. Thanks for the comment.
@@CaptMike I didn't know that was what grog did. Thank you. I was only thinking of glazes, as I assume that they make higher quality pottery faster. Specifically, I mean that the self-smoothing texture of the glaze provides protection from bumps that would otherwise need to be burnished off.
Your video and comments have been very interesting, I'm going to go by a local park and take some ashes from a fire pit or two. Thank you!
@@Zaniahiononzenbei Hope t works out for you. I am going to make an ash glaze video on using charcoal ash soon. Haven't tried iot yet, but looks promising.
Does he use fired or unfired clay?
In this video I used a local clay that had been bisqued to cone 04. I have used the ash glaze on commercial high to medium fire clay. Anything will work as long as it will fire to at least cone 6.
@@CaptMike I'm a beginer and I use a wood fired kiln, do you think I can reach a temperature of 1200°C? At the moment I cant find cones because of the virus but are you talking about cone 06 or 6? And is there a way you can tell temperature without cones? Sorry for bothering!
How many belt buckles do you have?
Can you add some egg shell in the mix?
I'm sure you can, but I don't knoe what it would add to the mix. If you try that, let me know. Sounds interesting.
What temperature did you fire It at?
I fire the ash glaze in a regular kiln at cone 6.
@@CaptMike THANK YOU!
I wonder if its silica that remains in the ash that melts and causes a shine. If that is true, I wonder how horsetail weeds burned to an ash would do. Horsetail is medicinally high in silica.
I would give it a try! I have heard of others using straw. Thanks for the comment and for watching!
Do you have to paint the glaze on or can you dip it.
I usually dip, but you can put 3 or 4 coats on with a brush if you want. Thanks for watching!
Good video. Does this glaze work in any kind of kiln? Like an electric kiln?
Yes, I usuallly fire to cone 6.
Thanks so much! Mystery is gone! :D
Sir could I use this glaze on a terracotta clay?
You could always do a test piece, but unless you know the terracotta will fire to cone 5 or 6 it might bust.
What would happen if you used Human Ash ?
Human ash is not ash as bones don't burn. The 'ash' is actually crushed bone.
Hi... First of all, thanks for making this video. I was a little unclear on one detail, however. The clay you use in the suspension to make the ash glaze... Does it have to be fired before it's ground up, or just dried out really thoroughly? You may have said it and I missed it, but I was just a little confused on that little detail.
The clay is not fired before you add it. You can add it moist or dry it out. You will have to experiment a little to make it work the way you like. Thanks for watching.
Hi Captainb Mike. yes, the book is 'Additions to Clay bodies' by Kathleen Standen.
Would this work on cookware?
Christina, not exactly sure what you mean. Cookware that has already had glaze applied and fired would not work; too slick. Corelle type cookware is made from two pieces of glass specially fired. Glaze adheres to pottery primarily by absorption. After pottery has been fired much above cone 01 or 02 it starts to vitrify and becomes less poros, therefore less able to hold th glaze. Hope this helps.
@@CaptMike I made a Crock-Pot from stoneware I also made a few from 3 different types of earthware clay I found in my backyard. My question is, would ashglaze be food and oven safe?
@@christinatakesphotos I could not say for sure, but if you are firing the glaze high enough I do not see why it would not be safe. I have to fire my ash glazes pretty high, say about cone 6 or so. That should be high enough to burn off anything questionable. I would try a test piece, say a small bowl or something like that and see if it will hold water without seeping back through. If your pieces make it though glazing, they should stand up to the oven ok. I have never tested anything in the oven. I'll have to try that!
@@CaptMike thanks for your time.
Where do you get a barrel?
What kind of a barrel do you need? If I mentioned one in the video, please let me know the timeline and I will look.
Enjoying your videos! Thanks! I'd like to try this! Have you done, or thought about doing any pit or barrel firing?
Yes, I have experimented with firing in a 55 gallon drum and in the ground. Depending on the additives you add to the fire you can achieve smoke clouds and various chemical colors, but it it is all hit and miss. I still like playing around with it occasionally. If I don;rt have a video on doing this I will make one.
Is your 50/50 ratio of ash to clay by volume or weight? It appears from the video to be by volume. Thanks for this informative video!
Thanks for the comment. I do everything by weight.
are your ash glazes, and ash glazes in general (clay, water, ash) safe for eating and drinking from? I want to glaze my coffee cups, and i'm a true novice, haven't even fired my electric kiln up yet, trying to get up to speed. Great video, thanks for posting!
I don't see why they would not be OK to drink from. Anything harmful should burn out at cone 6 and above temps.
Terry how did your first firing go?
Can you say firing temperature for this glaze, please))
I fire my ash glaze to about cone 6, 2194 F.
(1201 C.). Do a test first. All kilns fire differently. Also make sure the clay you use is a mid to high fire clay, otherwise you will end up with a mess in your kiln....ask me how I know!
will this work in cone6
Yes, as long as you are using a cone 6 clay body. I fire all my ash glazes, both tests and tested to cone 6.
Is it food safe?
The basic ash glaze which is only clay, water and pure wood ash fired to cone 7 should be food safe. However, I have seen nothing on the net that says so. I would feel safe using it, but to be sure I will see what I can dig up.
Capt Mike Thank you!
Thank you!