With this gap for the dice you could just have a tiny elevated border in the middle of the flat area on both sides. It'd not really affect rolling, but due to tolerance with the dice size, it'd be enough to contain dice inside the box. Alternatively use the 9 square cutout section for dice storage if it also folds properly with dice inside by adjusting depth of the section with all 9 squares, and making those 9 squares just a tiny bit pushed inside for visual hint. And you can also make a thin removable plate to cover the hole when the box is closed - you have plenty of space on the sides to make slot for it.
Wondeful little showcase! I like how all of the tricks you've shown can be applied to pretty much any other DIY boardgame project. Thank you for explaining the intricacies of the Extrusion tool and the hinge trick!
This one was fantastic. I've been hand clearing parts for ages. Never thought to use push/pull to adjust that on the fly. Neat game, too. Reminds me of Caravan from Fallout: New Vegas.
You can make sure no dice escape, you can add a connection between the hinge parts, a strip which will stop the dice in closed position but not in opened position.
I learned more design and printing tricks in this single video than watching 10 others. Watching how someone else models and designs stuff is very helpful. More videos like this please!
For the dice tray, two things are possible. Either making a bridge piece that is working like the hinges, but are connected with a flat board forming the bottom. Folded this will leave smaller gaps the dice cant escape. Or you rotate the design by 90°, make one half of the box the rolling tray, and the other part the slots for the game. This way you can store the dice within the slots.
For really tall and wide objects with a narrow bottom, a brim is a good idea as well, but also if your bed moves, make sure the narrow sides face the way the bed moves. (The wide side will act like a parachute and cause warping assuming it moves slow enough to not be pulled from the bed)
I also printed out a knucklebones board. Mine is even smaller, uses vase mode to make a lightweight pocket-sized gameboard, and has different colored dice for each player. With my board, the dice live inside their little squares when the box is closed. Also printed the dice. And taught my boyfriend and his kids to play. We're going to make a bunch for christmas gifts.
Love this print, It printed on my Adventure 3 (took 5 Hours but well worth the wait) . Great job Angus. Now all I have to do is find some 10mm Dice in town :)
One thing you could potentially have done for the gap issue is have the fold 90 degrees to how you have it currently. So one half would have the 18 dice slots, and the other half is the rolling area. To store the dice you can then put one in each slot and the rolling area folds on top of them to form a lid and keeping them in place!
LOVE IT. Combining two of my four biggest hobbies (3d printing, tabletop games, computer games, fpv drones, not in that order, actually order constantly changes). I have made a lot of storage solutions and upgraded components with 3d printing, and am planning a magnetic game if I ever finish it (a remake of a few out of print games)
That case reminds me of the super thin vase mode deck box's I used to print. Well, they weren't really deck boxes; more like a snug card sleeves for a whole deck. Easy, cheep, fast, and great for organizing. I didn't even model it. I would just resize a blank calibration cube in the slicer. Just measure the size of the cards, add a millimeter, print in vase mode, and you're done. You can also make a lid but actually I didn't like them. Since they were the exact size of the deck of cards, simply picking them up kept them from falling out of the sleave, but effortless when you wanted the cards. I think I printed more of those things than anything else I ever printed.
This was really cool. I am still horrible at f360, like, really bad, but I did learn a little. And that game looks great in the grey/marble/bone color.
Great video!! You can put a wide panel that connects the two hinge pieces on either side of the dice roll area but is still the thickness of the dice roll area. The hinge panel will then close that gap when the board is folded.
Reminds me of the card game "War", played in similar 3x3 grids where the objective is to fill rows with matching cards, and the drawback that when someone decides to score out if you've got any rows with non-matching cards they are counted against you. Very cool spin, not inspired by obviously but cool to see the parallels.
23:00 Design the board so if folds in half the other way, with all dice pockets on one side. Add a decorative center line to act as the divider instead of the fold. To reduce the amount of loose items and plastic, add a small snap-fit latch on the front of the box to remove the need for an external carrying case. For the Knuckle Bones text one idea would be to use pause gcode for colour changes on the first few layers. Printing the first layer as a mask and the rest in a contrasting colour works, and still produces a reasonably smooth surface on the overhanging layer. Another solution could be to make a small grid of square pockets in the shape of the text, allowing for bridging of small gaps. Or just print a stencil and spray-paint the text onto the finished box.
For printing the sleeve on a bed slinger, it might be better to yaw 90 degrees so the longer side matches the bed movement direction. Less likely to tip over, especially for a printer moving as fast as the Bambu
Crazy idea ... Hinge it on the other axis... Ie between the play area and the dice rolling area. That way all the dice can sit in their game holes when packing away. No gap :)
Hi Angus, I downloaded your model which printed flawlessly. I was having trouble finding 10mm dice (in time for Xmas) so I upscaled it 120% in my slicer. Now it works perfectly for 12mm dice. I also added a 1mm high 'speed-bump' to the throwing area at the hinge edges. Now the dice are contained when folded.
Here is my crazy idea to close that gap: have the two adjacent hinges liked by a plate. The plate should plug that hole. You might want to give a slight indentation on the base of the two main places so that the new part does not collide with the bottom of the dice rolling area. And thanks for your videos!
Printed the board in petg yesterday, turned out great! Finally, I took off some time from maniacally tweaking the settings to print a foldable sword (and ultimately fail miserably like always) and printed an actual fun item))) Did not have 10mm dice lying around, but had a 12mm dice set, they fit neatly, but, unfortunately, cannot be stored inside the board But i wonder, if I slightly increase the z dimension in the slicer, maybe it will still fold, but allow to store the bigger dice?... Thanks a lot, the design tips in the video are great, especially the hinge hole shape!
You could connect the two gap-hinges (maybe 3 layers thick ?) and cut that out of the sidepieces. the connecction would lay flat on the table when open, not beeing in the way of the dice but would rotate 90deg when closed, closing the hole. Otherwise awesome design!
for closing the dice storage, I'd just print a little lip on each surface, that's juuust enough to keep them in, but not high enough to make the dice tip on their sides when rolled.
For my First Lego league innovation project we modified ancient board games for people with sensory issues and one of the games we chose was mancala witch I 3d modeled and printed and used felt to make it reduce noise it would be cool if we could show you
why not turning the layout by 90 degrees. This way, one half of the board becomes the dice roll area, and the other half the area with that dice slots. Just close it then with dice in their slots. No gap there anymore
for the gap to close. what about adding a small several mm ridge that comes up just before the edge. this will close the gap to less then the size of the dice and leave only a small bumb for the dice to roll over in the play area.
This would make a great small gift for friends and family, love it! Do you have a video about brims or that discusses how to use brims to improve bed adhesion somewhere? I could have sworn that I watched it not long ago but going back through things I've watched recently I can't seem to find it.
Very cool. Some feedback, 1. 12mm dice are a lot easier to get in various styles. A 120% scaled version would be nice though its easy enough to do in the slicer. 2. The name of the model files has a typo 😀 Its missing an l. Knuckebones instead of Knucklebones.
Has anyone else noticed that there's a low frequency 'brum' in the sound when Angus is speaking? It's apparently not related to the faint background music as the brum disappears when he stops talking. The same applies to other Maker's Muse videos also. I tend to use headphones with good bass response which makes the brum more noticeable.
Probably the only Print in Place solution for filling the Gap when in storage mode is by connecting the two Floors via a very thin ( maybe 2 Layer thick at most? May have to go down to 1 Layer ensuring optimal Infill orientation ) Membrane that doesn't connect to the sides for the majority of the length of the Floors which when folded together would have that membrane bend like a Bookend. Success obviously depends on whether or not the bend is large enough to not be causing Material Fatigue after just a few bends. If you can't do it with the same material maybe just suck it up and glue in a different, not necessarily 3D Printed one in? Being able to claim it being a 100% Print in Place 3D Print is all nice and dandy but sometimes going that extra 1.609km and just not trying to _force_ it to be 100% Print in Place isn't going to hurt anyone.
Your video inspired me to create my own version for 16mm dice (much more comfortable) and magnets instead of hinges. Thanks for your great work, keep it up. For anyone interested, you can find it on printables: "Cult of the Lamb Knucklebones Dicegame (16mm Dice)".
For closing the gap, couldn’t you make one big floating hinge … So take the centre and edge hinges and merge them. Your rolling surface will gain a few bumps but it should close fully?
18:06 would it be better to modify the part so it is solid so that you moximise the string othe axle. with the seam you could force it to a different face. a couple look a bit dodgy. although you said it sprints okay Would it be better to have 4 perimeter slice? again to increase strength.... i've just done a solid print every 15mm layers as that would help too (on crushable prints). as a side though I've noticed youtubers do low infill and perimeters with PLA - is this for speed of printing to get vids finished or you're all tight? I though pla creeps in some situations. would this be better to do in PETG or ABS/ASA so that it could be good in a car on a road trip...
Unironically there is a ton of untapped design space for games that are basically entirely dice like this. (Obviously you need to represent columns but games like liars dice needs cups and it’s still considered an entirely dice based game)
I think I might be saying the same thing as @SneakyJoeRu here but just in case I'm not: put a small wall inset into the dice roller. It'll act as a dividing wall between the roller areas, but that should be fine, and keeps it away from the hinged area. You could even do the same on both sides, with just a very small offset between the two.
Either way, this video was great, I might try printing this as it looks neat as hell, and some really cool lessons on print in place planning! I did learn a few things, even as someone who doesn't use F360!
Hey. My ender 3 Stops printing randomly, i tried printing via cable on cura directly and octoprint running on windows and sd card also sd card extention nothing helps. i looked in to several forums and apearently there are quite some people who cant figure out a solution. im switching to bigtree mainboard and got a power blocker for the cable. im unsure what couses my issue and im a little afraid that i fried my mainboard. it still extrudes fillament but not moving in xyz
Found the problem. The file isnt one model. When i open it in cura it raises one of the hinges. I grouped them, centered them and then ungrouped them to move them to the buildplate.
How does this work from an IP perspective? I'm sure a line would be crossed if you were selling the STLs or printed products, which isn't the case here. Genuinely curious.
How difficult of a print would this be for an SLA printer using minisupports to support the bridges? I've only got an SLA printer, but I've seen some success with PiP stuff from other SLA users.
to prevent dice from falling out: Couldn't fold between rolling area and playing field? You certainly need to change some geometry to accommodate the hinges and a nice chamfer for folding. An other Idea would be to move the point of rotation to the upper outer corner of the pieces. This would result in a smaller chamfer and shorter hinge-piece. Nice Feature would be a better stopping point when opend, but I am not shure if it isn't more trouble with the lifted hinge from the printing surface.
With this gap for the dice you could just have a tiny elevated border in the middle of the flat area on both sides. It'd not really affect rolling, but due to tolerance with the dice size, it'd be enough to contain dice inside the box. Alternatively use the 9 square cutout section for dice storage if it also folds properly with dice inside by adjusting depth of the section with all 9 squares, and making those 9 squares just a tiny bit pushed inside for visual hint.
And you can also make a thin removable plate to cover the hole when the box is closed - you have plenty of space on the sides to make slot for it.
Wondeful little showcase! I like how all of the tricks you've shown can be applied to pretty much any other DIY boardgame project. Thank you for explaining the intricacies of the Extrusion tool and the hinge trick!
Hope it helps!
This one was fantastic. I've been hand clearing parts for ages. Never thought to use push/pull to adjust that on the fly.
Neat game, too. Reminds me of Caravan from Fallout: New Vegas.
You can make sure no dice escape, you can add a connection between the hinge parts, a strip which will stop the dice in closed position but not in opened position.
Exactly what I was thinking.
Thats exactly what I would do definitely the better solution imo
I learned more design and printing tricks in this single video than watching 10 others. Watching how someone else models and designs stuff is very helpful. More videos like this please!
For the dice tray, two things are possible. Either making a bridge piece that is working like the hinges, but are connected with a flat board forming the bottom. Folded this will leave smaller gaps the dice cant escape. Or you rotate the design by 90°, make one half of the box the rolling tray, and the other part the slots for the game. This way you can store the dice within the slots.
Thanks for the tips and tricks for print in place models.
For really tall and wide objects with a narrow bottom, a brim is a good idea as well, but also if your bed moves, make sure the narrow sides face the way the bed moves. (The wide side will act like a parachute and cause warping assuming it moves slow enough to not be pulled from the bed)
I also printed out a knucklebones board. Mine is even smaller, uses vase mode to make a lightweight pocket-sized gameboard, and has different colored dice for each player. With my board, the dice live inside their little squares when the box is closed. Also printed the dice. And taught my boyfriend and his kids to play. We're going to make a bunch for christmas gifts.
Oh nice! it's such a fun little game.
Stl available anywhere?
I’m t
Is the STL available?
So share it or your karma is going down )
Love this print, It printed on my Adventure 3 (took 5 Hours but well worth the wait) . Great job Angus. Now all I have to do is find some 10mm Dice in town :)
One thing you could potentially have done for the gap issue is have the fold 90 degrees to how you have it currently. So one half would have the 18 dice slots, and the other half is the rolling area.
To store the dice you can then put one in each slot and the rolling area folds on top of them to form a lid and keeping them in place!
Thanks for giving us so much great content and congratulations on a well deserved MILLION subscribers. I'm hoping for a weekend livestream
LOVE IT. Combining two of my four biggest hobbies (3d printing, tabletop games, computer games, fpv drones, not in that order, actually order constantly changes).
I have made a lot of storage solutions and upgraded components with 3d printing, and am planning a magnetic game if I ever finish it (a remake of a few out of print games)
This was a fun watch! That gold PLA is gorgeous. 💛
Love this! I am going to make some wooden boards for Christmas presents!
That case reminds me of the super thin vase mode deck box's I used to print. Well, they weren't really deck boxes; more like a snug card sleeves for a whole deck. Easy, cheep, fast, and great for organizing. I didn't even model it. I would just resize a blank calibration cube in the slicer. Just measure the size of the cards, add a millimeter, print in vase mode, and you're done. You can also make a lid but actually I didn't like them. Since they were the exact size of the deck of cards, simply picking them up kept them from falling out of the sleave, but effortless when you wanted the cards. I think I printed more of those things than anything else I ever printed.
This was really cool. I am still horrible at f360, like, really bad, but I did learn a little. And that game looks great in the grey/marble/bone color.
I really liked the great design tips for Fusion 360. Those will come in handy! Thanks Angus!
Great video!!
You can put a wide panel that connects the two hinge pieces on either side of the dice roll area but is still the thickness of the dice roll area. The hinge panel will then close that gap when the board is folded.
Reminds me of the card game "War", played in similar 3x3 grids where the objective is to fill rows with matching cards, and the drawback that when someone decides to score out if you've got any rows with non-matching cards they are counted against you. Very cool spin, not inspired by obviously but cool to see the parallels.
23:00 Design the board so if folds in half the other way, with all dice pockets on one side. Add a decorative center line to act as the divider instead of the fold. To reduce the amount of loose items and plastic, add a small snap-fit latch on the front of the box to remove the need for an external carrying case.
For the Knuckle Bones text one idea would be to use pause gcode for colour changes on the first few layers. Printing the first layer as a mask and the rest in a contrasting colour works, and still produces a reasonably smooth surface on the overhanging layer. Another solution could be to make a small grid of square pockets in the shape of the text, allowing for bridging of small gaps. Or just print a stencil and spray-paint the text onto the finished box.
I didn't know you could offset an extrusion like that. That makes life a lot easier for some operations. Thanks!
If the board folded the other way, the dice slots could hold the dice and prevent them from rattling too much.
It would also solve the issue with the dice falling out of the side of the folded board.
You can even include a spare dice as there will be 18 slots to hold them but only need 17 dice to play.
I love it. Following KISS instead of designing a complicated solution
For printing the sleeve on a bed slinger, it might be better to yaw 90 degrees so the longer side matches the bed movement direction. Less likely to tip over, especially for a printer moving as fast as the Bambu
Crazy idea ... Hinge it on the other axis... Ie between the play area and the dice rolling area. That way all the dice can sit in their game holes when packing away. No gap :)
Hi Angus, I downloaded your model which printed flawlessly. I was having trouble finding 10mm dice (in time for Xmas) so I upscaled it 120% in my slicer. Now it works perfectly for 12mm dice.
I also added a 1mm high 'speed-bump' to the throwing area at the hinge edges. Now the dice are contained when folded.
Yesss. Getting 12mm dice to fit is so good. Thank you for sharing!
Hopefully Angus will remix in the future
Here is my crazy idea to close that gap: have the two adjacent hinges liked by a plate. The plate should plug that hole. You might want to give a slight indentation on the base of the two main places so that the new part does not collide with the bottom of the dice rolling area. And thanks for your videos!
You could add a small single or double layer thickness flat piece attached to the hinge pieces under the dice roll area to keep them from falling out.
Printed the board in petg yesterday, turned out great!
Finally, I took off some time from maniacally tweaking the settings to print a foldable sword (and ultimately fail miserably like always) and printed an actual fun item)))
Did not have 10mm dice lying around, but had a 12mm dice set, they fit neatly, but, unfortunately, cannot be stored inside the board
But i wonder, if I slightly increase the z dimension in the slicer, maybe it will still fold, but allow to store the bigger dice?...
Thanks a lot, the design tips in the video are great, especially the hinge hole shape!
From video game to real world gaming, awesome 👏 🎉
And great video!
For the slot for the dice you could probably come up with a way to make a short section of that area a part of the hinge
Thanks for the hint with game! Downloaded, however decided to design a different version w/o a case.
Great video, those tips will be very helpful when designing parts.
I also designed one (Reflekks on Printables) that has a magnetic cap and you play on the case
Nice work, Angus. Well done.
Love your work! Just finished designing my own version :)
Nice!!
You could connect the two gap-hinges (maybe 3 layers thick ?) and cut that out of the sidepieces. the connecction would lay flat on the table when open,
not beeing in the way of the dice but would rotate 90deg when closed, closing the hole. Otherwise awesome design!
Angus this is epic! Looking forward to making this for PAX AUS next year!
for closing the dice storage, I'd just print a little lip on each surface, that's juuust enough to keep them in, but not high enough to make the dice tip on their sides when rolled.
For my First Lego league innovation project we modified ancient board games for people with sensory issues and one of the games we chose was mancala witch I 3d modeled and printed and used felt to make it reduce noise it would be cool if we could show you
why not turning the layout by 90 degrees. This way, one half of the board becomes the dice roll area, and the other half the area with that dice slots. Just close it then with dice in their slots. No gap there anymore
Perfect solution!
for the gap to close. what about adding a small several mm ridge that comes up just before the edge. this will close the gap to less then the size of the dice and leave only a small bumb for the dice to roll over in the play area.
Very cool designed game Angus!
This would make a great small gift for friends and family, love it! Do you have a video about brims or that discusses how to use brims to improve bed adhesion somewhere? I could have sworn that I watched it not long ago but going back through things I've watched recently I can't seem to find it.
Depending on the tolerances of your printer, 12mm dice will also work just fine in this model, in case you'd like to use some fancy 12mm Chessex dice.
Simple, put the hinge btwn the playing squares and the roll area, with the dice stored in the squares (a la silverwing) and the roll area as a lid
To resolve the dice escaping problem, reorient the dice rolling tray to be one opening of the board and the 2 3x3 grids for dice the other opening.
Thanks for this video. It saved my day.
Very cool. Some feedback,
1. 12mm dice are a lot easier to get in various styles. A 120% scaled version would be nice though its easy enough to do in the slicer.
2. The name of the model files has a typo 😀 Its missing an l. Knuckebones instead of Knucklebones.
you dont need a wall over the gap.. only a ridge that make it smaler then the dice. and it wotn effect the throwing part to negatively.
Good call!
I did exactly that with a 1.5mm ridge and it works perfectly!
Hey angus, were you at the cult of lamb event melbourne central a while back? Would have been sick to see you there
Nah I only discovered the game afterwards sadly! I heard the rave was absolutely insane.
@@MakersMuse it was certainly lively
Has anyone else noticed that there's a low frequency 'brum' in the sound when Angus is speaking? It's apparently not related to the faint background music as the brum disappears when he stops talking. The same applies to other Maker's Muse videos also. I tend to use headphones with good bass response which makes the brum more noticeable.
I learned a lot.
Thank you!
I'll probably try to print it soon!
Today the dice arrived and coincidentally I printed this before that. Added some fuzzy skin for the case and all went great.
Thanks a lot again!
Yooo knucklebones! CotL is such a good game. Nice idea!
You could have the 2 hinges connected by a wall that splits the rolling area in half to close thay gap
Probably the only Print in Place solution for filling the Gap when in storage mode is by connecting the two Floors via a very thin ( maybe 2 Layer thick at most? May have to go down to 1 Layer ensuring optimal Infill orientation ) Membrane that doesn't connect to the sides for the majority of the length of the Floors which when folded together would have that membrane bend like a Bookend. Success obviously depends on whether or not the bend is large enough to not be causing Material Fatigue after just a few bends. If you can't do it with the same material maybe just suck it up and glue in a different, not necessarily 3D Printed one in? Being able to claim it being a 100% Print in Place 3D Print is all nice and dandy but sometimes going that extra 1.609km and just not trying to _force_ it to be 100% Print in Place isn't going to hurt anyone.
I've done features like the text as deep as .8mm without much issue. surprising what you can get away with on vertical walls like that.
Your video inspired me to create my own version for 16mm dice (much more comfortable) and magnets instead of hinges.
Thanks for your great work, keep it up.
For anyone interested, you can find it on printables: "Cult of the Lamb Knucklebones Dicegame (16mm Dice)".
Nice design - Feel like having the fold the other way you could have stored the dice in the snug holes for less rattle?
For closing the gap, couldn’t you make one big floating hinge …
So take the centre and edge hinges and merge them. Your rolling surface will gain a few bumps but it should close fully?
Ever thought about adding small spots for magnets to hold the case together for people who don't want the outside case?
Now make one with the 2mm dice from the Pirates constructible strategy game. The whole game would fit in a pill.
The case opening could have been put on the longer side to shorten the print height and get a little more contact with the print bed.
I noticed Gap Infill on this model at 21:07. Is perimeter generator set to Arachne? Is this undesirable in a thin wall print?
Ha love it if only I had a 3d printer but that wouldn't be the only thing I would make if I did but seriously very nice work
this is damn Great , We happy youu extra like that 😆😊
18:06 would it be better to modify the part so it is solid so that you moximise the string othe axle.
with the seam you could force it to a different face. a couple look a bit dodgy. although you said it sprints okay
Would it be better to have 4 perimeter slice? again to increase strength....
i've just done a solid print every 15mm layers as that would help too (on crushable prints).
as a side though I've noticed youtubers do low infill and perimeters with PLA - is this for speed of printing to get vids finished or you're all tight? I though pla creeps in some situations. would this be better to do in PETG or ABS/ASA so that it could be good in a car on a road trip...
I think it would be cool if you did more livestreams
Unironically there is a ton of untapped design space for games that are basically entirely dice like this.
(Obviously you need to represent columns but games like liars dice needs cups and it’s still considered an entirely dice based game)
You should have connected those hinges with a wall/bottom, so that the dice wont fall out
I created a 3d model of the dice used in the game. They would fit perfectly in your case.
I also printed the game, made a lid with the crown on it and painted the board and dice
Which printer should I get ?
Artillery Hornet, Artillery Genius Pro, BambuLab A1 Mini (pre-order) or a Ender 3 V2
Are you reviewing the Bambu lab A1 printer?
I wonder if a travel version of the AC Valhalla dice game is doable?
I think I might be saying the same thing as @SneakyJoeRu here but just in case I'm not: put a small wall inset into the dice roller. It'll act as a dividing wall between the roller areas, but that should be fine, and keeps it away from the hinged area. You could even do the same on both sides, with just a very small offset between the two.
Either way, this video was great, I might try printing this as it looks neat as hell, and some really cool lessons on print in place planning! I did learn a few things, even as someone who doesn't use F360!
you only needed to add a lip to the gap, not enough to interferer with the fold but enough to make the gap smaller than the dice
I'm using 18d6 anyway because what if a die goes missing?
That text on the case have a scary amount of ghosting ;-)
Hey. My ender 3 Stops printing randomly, i tried printing via cable on cura directly and octoprint running on windows and sd card also sd card extention nothing helps. i looked in to several forums and apearently there are quite some people who cant figure out a solution.
im switching to bigtree mainboard and got a power blocker for the cable. im unsure what couses my issue and im a little afraid that i fried my mainboard. it still extrudes fillament but not moving in xyz
To close the gap, print a half-height wall on each box opening and the dice will be captive.
Hey man, thanks for the vid. You keep saying FTM printer. Which other common new printers can pull this design off
What happened to the MK4? It has been over 6 months since the livestream and we haven't heard anything since.
In my file, the bottom hinge seems to be fused with the case. How can I fix this?
Found the problem. The file isnt one model. When i open it in cura it raises one of the hinges. I grouped them, centered them and then ungrouped them to move them to the buildplate.
Clever boy!
I guess you gotta put it on Cults 3D 😂
How does this work from an IP perspective? I'm sure a line would be crossed if you were selling the STLs or printed products, which isn't the case here. Genuinely curious.
How difficult of a print would this be for an SLA printer using minisupports to support the bridges? I've only got an SLA printer, but I've seen some success with PiP stuff from other SLA users.
Theres a pretty cheesy horror film called knucklebones worth a watch
Hello, I wanted to know if you are okay with somebody selling these prints? I always check with the creator before I do.
Not for commercial use
Fair. Thank you for replying. I would still love to print one just for myself and my friends to play @@MakersMuse
thats totally fine!
Ever try printing dice?
I know balance is a major issue.
To close off that open dice section... use a hinge that covers that entire section.
nice dig at Monopoly. way to kick a man while he's down.
Why a game designed not to be fun is so popular is beyond me lol
@@MakersMuse the standard for "fun" was quite low during Monopoly's inception during the Great Depression.
@@h7opolo yeah that's a really good point 😅
thank you!@@MakersMuse
to prevent dice from falling out: Couldn't fold between rolling area and playing field? You certainly need to change some geometry to accommodate the hinges and a nice chamfer for folding.
An other Idea would be to move the point of rotation to the upper outer corner of the pieces. This would result in a smaller chamfer and shorter hinge-piece. Nice Feature would be a better stopping point when opend, but I am not shure if it isn't more trouble with the lifted hinge from the printing surface.
I believe you. I hate monopoly.
My teacher was talking about this board game
Just fold it the other way and put the dices in the slots when packing mate.
Great stuff!
Go to bed knackers 👌
Yeah great vid watched it in 30 seconds
feces sandwich
as a prank
@@MakersMuse I watched a streamer play this game once when it came out and all the cult members wanted to do was literally eat shit.