Inside a Samsung LED retrofit tube. (Older style?)
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- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
- I was expecting the circuitry in this tube to be simple, but I was very wrong.
This is an older style Samsung retrofit LED tube that can be put into existing fluorescent fixtures without bypassing the original inductive ballast.
Some notes that will make more sense after viewing the video.
The big MOSFET might be purely a safety feature that only enables the switching of the inductor once the chips circuitry is stable. It might be to avoid stability glitching at power-up that could damage the chips own FET. I don't think it will be used for the high frequency switching of the inductor given the surrounding circuitry. It will also probably shut the drive off quickly when the tube is powered down. Those are guesses though. It's quite odd circuitry.
The use of two large electrolytics across the LEDs are to reduce flicker. The positioning of one at the incoming supply end is partly to use the available space for more capacitance, but also has the advantage of being in the vicinity of cooler circuitry and therefore not likely to degrade too fast and cause visible flicker over time.
The 420 reference apparently relates to a holiday date (20th April) when certain plants are celebrated.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
www.bigclive.co...
This also keeps the channel independent of RUclips's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.
After manually reviewing it, I hereby confirm this is original BigClive content.
Oh, 555k subscribers, would it be a time for a 555 special?
Yes! Clive should do stuff with 555 timers that they're not supposed to do... maybe make a few go bang... A recomposition of his resistor sonata
557k you mean... ;-)
Lilly like da flower - hey, what about a 556 special?
Looking forward to the Op Amp Special when BC gets to 741K (shortly after the foray into TTL "logic Lego" when he reaches 740!) :-D
@@phils4634 Would I be showing my age if I said we could also have an 807 special (CV807).
main reason for the fuse in the starter is in case someone puts an old-style tube back into the fixture.
That would apply to where the ballasts are bypassed. In this case I don't think the cathodes would pass enough current to blow the fuse. They'd just glow in the same way as when the starter contacts weld closed.
....i dont know if i'd rather see mike or clive try doing things you arnt supposed to like this, actually, both of you can just leave it to photonicinduction :D @bigclivedotcom i think i agree with mike on the reason, when starting a FL tube can take upwards of 100+ watts per tube on a magnetic ballast due to the thermionic coils glowing, i haven't tested it directly but if you leave them glowing, the total current probably would pop a slow blow fuse after a while
Frogz photonicinduction channel is since long gone and the internet has become a better place.
Some say he is in India saving the planet while slurping curry.
Some say you can still hear his voice every time the UK power grid dims
Or if someone takes it to be a normal starter and puts it into a standard fitting.
Big Clive should voice for audio books. Audible hook this dude up.
Look for Hellfreezer, he does various narrations with a similar voice and accent.
BigClive: I don't know what 420 is.
Also BigClive: Look at all these LED grow lamps.
I have no idea what this big guy is talking about, but i could listen to you all night, thanks Clive :)
I think if I changed the round fluorescent tube in my closet to something modern my routine would get scrambled.
Standing there while it pings and backfires until it brightens up is somehow harmonious with my morning routine.
Great talk on how complicated a bit of new technology is in the beginning.
That tube must have cost a bomb to make, much like cfl's were in the new.
They were like 20 times the cost of an incandescent bulb in the beginning.
yeah youtube is being silly, thank you for being you and providing good content for us!
Sadly YT is going off the monetisation rails. I suspect that the multiple levels of management within the Empire have to justify their enormous salaries by experiments. The bad news for them is that while content creators migrate down the road in Silicon Valley to Apple (!) et al the shine (and $ returns) is reminiscent of FW Woolworth
They have gone back on the de-verification, though. Anyone already verified will stay verified, the change will only be for future new verifications.
@@rolfs2165 why did Clive get that message then ?
RUclips are a law unto themselves, they let someone else take my /licensetodrive URL which I'd been using for many years, so now I have to tell everyone it's /user/licensetodrive
I signed up to Twitter to contact them and try to sort the issue out - fat lot of bloody good that did, they stopped responding after a couple of days. They don't care. F* them.
@@maicod Because RUclips is run by a bunch of people who can not think clearly. They were caught with their collective pants down when they initially announced this decision only to be astounded by the content creators complaining about this decision. I never thought the checkmark meant the channel was being promoted by RUclips. I took it to mean that the creator behind the channel had been verified. Even moving one's mouse cursor over the checkmark indicates that. I guess RUclips feels that the majority of their viewers have low IQ .
I watched this on a big screen tested, and I still value the zoom-in.
I sometimes watch on a 55" TV, still find the zoom-in useful.
It wouldn't be right if nobody disagreed with you so I will. I only watch on a 24" monitor but I still find myself leaning back quickly in my chair when Clive zooms in. I mean, I could see everything before that just fine ans there's no issues with stuff going on later out-of-frame.
@@alexatkin me too but 44 inch
I dont like the zoom in at all, its pretty unpleasant when sitting at my pc.
We all do. If course, there always some poor dear who has to complain.
Lots of suppression because tos long power busses will make great antennas.
I haven’t been able to find these locally in the states. The guys at Home Depot and Lowe’s told me they were discontinued and there isn’t a drop in retrofit available any longer… Without completely overhauling or replacing the fixture.
I bought these several years ago and they’ve worked for me great probably going on eight years now maybe six I don’t remember…
However I sent my dad to buy some for his shop.... (because florescence give him headaches)… And he was told they don’t make anything like this anymore … And that was just last week.
Maybe I’ll try to order some of these on eBay for my father and for my remaining fixtures.
I always greatly enjoy your videos!
It’s not hard to rewire old fixtures. You can leave the ballasts, just disconnect them. I used double ended bulbs, so I just connected one end to live, and the other to neutral.
In fact the lower part of the schematic is a typical buck (step down converter) but is floating connected in the high side for driving the lamps.So the free-wheeling diode is connected between +310v and mosfet's drain and passes through the buck coil that is connected to drain and the output load.The led voltage is measured against the +vcc of the rectified input voltage.The buck mode coil has a secondary isolated output since as said it is floating against the ground and is used for the ic power supply and output voltage feedback monitoring.
I have a 1960's 4ft fluorescent fitting in the kitchen that is on its 3rd rebuild. It originally had a combination starter and 40W? bulb as ballast in a light fitting at one end. Sometime in the 1980's my mother forgot she had spare stock of the combination starter bulbs and as they were now unobtainable I rewired the light with an inductive ballast and ordinary starter in the light fitting. The lamp hangs from a single thin plastic conduit tube pendant so given the increased weight of the inductive ballast I had to move the pendant to rebalance the fitting. Then in the 1990's I assume an electrician replaced the ballast and starter with a starter-less ballast.
Last year I found the stock of combination bulb starters so I flogged them on eBay to someone with the same light fitting. Around Christmas I again rewired the lamp for an LED tube, junked the ballast altogether, and relocated the pendant to its original position to rebalance it. All was well until the onset of spring and sunny weather when the lamp began to flicker. Eventually I tracked this down to the proportional immersion heater controller which uses the surplus energy from my solar panels. I assume the noise ripple from this is enough to cause the light to flicker, albeit I have conventual LED bulbs on the same circuit that do not flicker. Therefore I'm guessing the 4ft LED lamp is of the simpler design that Clive was expecting here, so I am now looking for a 4ft LED tube with the control circuitry.
PS Ordered and fitted a Crompton LED T8 Glass tube; flickering gone.
There's something about the word tube, spoken in a soft Scottish accent!
I watch Clive before I got to bed his voice is super relaxing plus the videos are pretty awesome
Tshubz
I posted a video a few months ago of a very similar type A LED retrofit tube and I was amazed you drew it out almost identical to how the Feit bulbs were. Then very surprised how different the internal circuitry ended up! Your video of course 100% better than mine! Great video!👍
As always, Very Cool. Thanks Big Clive. That really is a bunch of circuitry which I was initially thinking necessary because of the random orientation the tube might take in a fixture. Nope. Like you said, just spread to both ends of the tube to make use of the space in between. Pretty neat.
So, if this is an early application of LED lighting, then it might be fair to say that we are seeing a circuit before it goes through what AvE would call "Value Engineering". Do you think all the additional coils and caps and FETs are there to make this circuit more reliable and robust? I ask because I've had a couple "high end" LED lamps fail on me. Thanks to your channel I'm pretty confident that it's the power supplies that have failed, due to there being lots of noise on the AC side from a dehumidifier sharing the same circuit. (Not ideal, but nothing I can fix without getting a new power distribution panel in the house.) It annoys me the theoretical reliability of LED lighting won't be realized because of cheap power supplies that work for weeks or months an end up failing as commonly as the incandescents that they replaced.
No no
I have a LED light that has run over 75 thousand hours, and it's still going strong. That said, there are some simple cheap LED lights that use a series capacitor to limit current. They are supposed to use an X rated capacitor that will fail open, not shorted. But instead they use those red gumdrop caps rated for only 400 volts, sometimes less. Well, 120VAC is 370V peak to peak, so the cap is running at its max, sometimes over maximum. So failure happens, and it takes the rest of the circuit when the current becomes excessive. Just pray the light doesn't catch fire! 😱😱😱
@@acmefixer1 I have seen some LED tubes fail, not just the cheap ones. Dissecting them showed either signs of crappy build quality, crappy cheaped out capacitors, or 80 % of them temperature issues. They put the led strip into a plastic difuser/reflector, shrouded that one with another difuser lining the actual glas tube... By the way a pain in the ass to disassemble the way they glued everything in place with the usual white goop.
would be nice to have some oscilloscope readings of the working circuit. just to confirm power factor and working frequency
The circuitry seems so much more complicated than it needed to be, based on what you said in the first half of the video... But, like you said, maybe it's so complex because they're trying to make it more efficient? Make it so its power-factor is closer to 1.0 than it would otherwise be? And to add some stability to the output current? Either way, I definitely did not expect such complexity... Excellent analysis, as usual. I always learn so much on this channel -- thank you so much!
C8-R16 is a snubber to damp down the snap-off noise from the flywheel diode (D5). The switch in the chip appears to be only rated at 18V so the external MOSFET is a common gate stage to boost the voltage rating up to 400V or so.
"I am not a number"
@@twotone3070 You are number six.
@@petehiggins33 I am a mere fraction of that Leo.
420? Roll a fat one bro.. yeh, that's what that means Big man.
Thanks for the vid as always, was wondering how these worked
RUclips have announced that they are not removing the verified tick now if you already have it, not that it does anything anyway but you should be keeping it now, make the most of it mate 😋
“Vintage led”
That made me feel old
Not as old as I feel when I think back to when LEDs were first sold in electronic component shops and cost quite a lot for a very dull red or green one. (I chose the green one.)
bigclivedotcom hell not many component shops anymore.
@@cdawson198600 Do CEF not sell red leds for 3p ?
It's been downhill since we switched from good ol' torches to that fancy modern gas lighting.
@@bigclivedotcom remember when laser pointers were $100 for red? the first pointer i got was $30 usd, came in a folding padded box with 2 AAA batteries now you can get a red blue and green 3 pack for $15 including a pair of 18650s and charger
Between BigC and Electroboom I am in my happy place. Thank you Clive for the hard work to putting great content into RUclips. This is very hard to do week in and out and your passion makes a difference. I appreciate your work and willingness to go places where others do not and pour your time into it
Do watch diodegonewild he also makes awesome content about pulling things apart
@@chilly1661 He is great, he sings when he talks, always funny to listen to.
I wonder if we'll be stuck with the fluro tube fittings long after the traditional tubes are out of production? A bit like horse and cart -> road width -> car width.
That's a bit like we still talk about dialling a phone number, even though telephones haven't had dials for decades!
@@NOWThatsRichy my phone definatly has a dial that's how I called my school when I needed to schedule something with someone without having to make a contact labeled school and input the phone number there
@@bland9876 The genuine old dial telephones would still work on a pulse dial exchange but i think you may need some sort of adapter to use them on a modern tone dial system.
@@NOWThatsRichy can't use an old phone unless there's some way to connect it to a cell phone tower luckily I have a smartphone and it has a button on it which says dial and when you click it a bunch of numbers pop up and you can click them and if you inputted the right numbers you can click another button and it will call that particular number without having to make a contact or anything in your phone it's really cool and has come in handy a few times
Pretty clever splitting up the circuitry to just the two ends.
I wonder how many of these so called home professionals forget to replace the old starter with the new 'starter' cause people don't read instructions
none because the led will keep flashing!
Or the other way around. Thats why there is a 2A fuse and not just bridged connections.
Normal tube would just warm and warm up and never "start" until a failure or a fire.
Unless somebody put a 13amp fuse in the holder
The instructions didn't appear to say plug power back in after replacing the tube and shunt starter!
For the LED-Starter i often see a fuse inside. But some manufacturers has nothing but a jumper-wire inside. The one with the fuse are better, because for some reason when you want to replace the tube with a old Vacuum Tube the Fuse blows by the time. With a jumper wire the preheat-coils in the Tube are always on and the CCG heats up and can cause fire.
Yellow transformers can also be a VW Beetle.
Or a yellow Camaro.
420 was the police code in California for weed smoking in progress, also happens to be the date when the temperature is warm enough in most areas to plant your seeds outside. So potheads made that their favorite time to smoke and April 20th is like national pot smoking day to them. So if you smoke weed on 4/20 at 4:20 you appease all the pot gods and they will bless you with a bountiful harvest. Ok I made up that last part! Lol
We definitely can't risk having a lame harvest though.
556K subscribers NE556 timer builds seems logical
The tubelight of the future
Hi Clyde. It is quite a coincidence that a day after I bought 2 18 inch Great Value 15 watt Non Dim T8 or T12 LED lamps, similar, I suppose, to the one you just discected. One is 2700k the other is 5000k; the label states T8 25.4mm T12 38.1mm. "Replaces T8 or T12 in you fluorescent Fixtures... Both the old style fluorescent tubes went belly up so I bought these to replace them (one is Soft White the other is Daylight. Well short story of it all is aaater I installed them I plugged the lamp in and they immediately came on. Unplugged, plugged, same thin frever, I suppose. Before, with the old style Ihad to hold the "ON" button down for a second or two before they would energize and start giving off photons. These LEDs lamps come on as soon as I plug i in. The OFF switch does nothing as in when I push it the lights stay lit, no flicker, no nothing, just bright Daylight and soft white. They aren''' running hot, smoking or giving of fumes of any kind but I still decided to unplug them; 10 minutes later your video popped on my youtube screen. In all of your eletrical wisdom would you be able to just give me a guess as to why this is happening? Unknonw damage? Balast gone bad? Oh, btw the lamp is a 2 tube portable lamp. The sticker on the bottom: E69325 120v 60hz 1115Wx2 0.48A AC ONLY Made in Taiwan Another sticker: Inspected 0922004. And a small oval, blue colored UL sticker.... 2 buttons = ON and OFF and no visible ballast(s). It does have some handy phillips screws on the bottom, holding the case together. Thank You O Wise One.
i see you're using some expert industrial equipment there (multimeter). do you have the appropriate Part P certification? you're going to hurt yourself! you must call someone who has the relevant certifications! if you turn on that multimeter without your Part P certification in hand you could burn your house down!
I just got an ad for grow lights, RUclips must be thinking Clive is all about 420.
557k, now we need a special about pnp transistors...
Seems we have some specials waiting....
555k timer special, 556k dual timer special, 557 PNP transistor special, and soon it will be time for the 558k quad timer special.
The 555 video is coming up, but it's NOTHING like you'd expect. Clue. It's E555 and involves ethanol.
@@bigclivedotcom haha you little BIG :D rascal
I'd keep an eye on RUclips and their verification. Others have mentioned it happening to them, also with no explanation, but apparently it can have consequences.
Keep up the great videos. I'm actually learning something! Who says you can't teach an old dog new tricks?
They rescinded that decision the day after they announced it. Guess the heat on the back of their collective necks was too much.
The external MOSFET is used with the internal MOSFET in a cascode. Essentially the external one limits the voltage across the internal one. This means the external one is doing all the work while the internal one has a the control. While looking odd this allows the external MOSFET to be added and not need to worry about gate drive for proper rise/fall times.
Yes, according to the data sheet, the internal MOSFET has an absolute maximum voltage rating of just 18V, hence the need for a higher voltage external MOSFET.
I (and Project Farm if you want to see a video) retrofitted my shed with Hyperikon LED retrofits, which intend for you to completely remove the ballast and have live at one end and neutral at the other. You can get these on Amazon. Very good lights though. A bit harsh for the inside of the house, so got some Philips retrofits for that, and they needed a switchmode ballast (there is a list of "compatible" units) which luckily it was easy to find a $12 unit that was on the list
I've done a lot of mine with toggled dimmable ones from home depot. The 5k color was quite an improvement in my shop. I was even more impressed when they turned on properly on a subzero winter night.
With LEDs I mostly care about flickering. So much difference between different lights. This is why I use normal Tubes in my room with a 40 kHz driver. This, along with the fluorescent screen of the tube prevents flickering 100%.
At my previous job we had a lot of LED lamps made by just having a frame, with plastic conduit clips, which the led tubes fit into, and then it was connected by 2 connection blocks to the cable, with a piece of plastic conduit slipped onto the end (perfect fit) to cover the connection
I'm looking now and you still have your tick.
If you lose that, I'm afraid we'll need you to supply the password at the start of each video. The password being 'milliamps' due to your unique pronunciation of it ;)
(Update your bench label by adding a tick to it. Then we'll know it's a genuine BC video.)
Trademark your bench top. That burn-mark pattern is unique to you.
In hindsight would have been good to stick this through the Hopi to check the power factor but an excellent teardown if a little (lot) complex, especially for us mere apprentice level mortals. I only did electrical stuff as part of my mechanical apprenticeship.
I love the fact there are still companies out there that care about good engineering.
Yeah this is pretty much power factor correction, no flicker, no emi interference (extra copper plate pcb)
Very good product from samsung😮
I will buy these as replacement led thingies from Samsung now
i was like 343 and clive is still teaching everyday , love the guy for the captivating way he teach things and how fun he is
Maybe T1 circuit looks for AC imposed on DC supply ...? AC present at that point could indicate several failure modes and trigger a protection feature that shuts the thing off ....
Best candy in the world ever... Peanut butter M&M's and it's a bloody good job we can't get them in the UK.
MOSFET Q1 in common-gate configuration. Probably to allow the chip to handle higher voltages.
That was my thought too.
Also my first thought. I skimmed a not zoomable version of the datasheet and I think it said the internal FET can only do 22V or so.
That Oh Henry bar looks to be identical to what we know as a "Payday" bar in the US.
A lot of fixtures with soldi-state ballasts use the so-called "shunt" sockets, where the two pins on each end are connected together (the tube heater isn't used). I retrofitted a number of 4-foot F40 fixtures in my home with line feed at either end, so that shunt sockets don't have to be replaced. The replacement tube instructions state that you can leave the iron ballast installed or remove it (better efficiency). The lamps are quite bright and have no flicker, so I suspect a high-frequency inverter is part of each tube.
Interesting that they put the german initialism "VVG" ("Verlustarmes Vorschaltgerät" : low-loss control gear) next to the english-term initialism "CCG" on the tube's packaging. Couldn't find "VVG" on the english wikipedia page for "Electrical ballast", so i CTRL-F'd thru its german page due to a hunch. Yup! Found it!
Did I hear you correctly? Did you say that the circuitry was possibly writing a sigh wave?
The on off cycles due to inverter ballast charges, it actually is less damaging for the 2 second cycle vs 30 seconds on off since 30 seconds it discharges further and cools further and of course heats further when on for 30 second test. Thus 2 second tests temperatures stay less varied and damage is reduced vs 30 second test.
But in the real world, you tend to turn the light on and leave it on for a long time. In workplaces for 10 hours plus. At home for less time. So what would be more useful from the manufacturer is the impact for those situations.
Great teardown and reverse engineering, as usual. However, I was hoping Clive would look at the date codes on components for a further hint at the vintage of this unit. _What is the earliest date?_
You're a legend!
Love the humour.
heh, the first schematics look like a robot clown face
Mmmmm peanut butter cups
For a second there I thought you were going to run a continuity test on the Reese's peanut butter cup.
One "side effect" of the double mosfets setup would be short or no radio noise. Have you got a Phantom power mic? See if a hum happens when you turn on a tube?
Strange you've uploaded this on the day I've had an e-mail from Philips to say they'll repair my T12 5' tube ! Obviously, I've asked them as you can't get them any more - so repairing existing ones seems to be the way to go.
Unless..
Clive does another project on his website for DIY LED lighting.
So Clive, this is a request for that project - giving a component list (and suggested sources thereof) so we can make out own LED lights - with minimal components - such as 80 LEDS 4 diodes and a capacitor or 160 LEDS (or 80 reverse twin LEDS) and 2 capacitors.
A sister video for the same but at 12 or 24 V DC would be useful too - including a transformer to go next to the consumer unit/fuse box to drop the whole house lighting circuits to low voltage. (maybe a model railway transformer will do - then the whole property's lighting can be centrally dimmed. (I currently use a variac for that in my flat))
Easy fix for 12 or 24V. Just buy the appropriate LED tape and put some inside the tube or on the backplate of the existing fitting.
@@bigclivedotcom For replacement fluo tubes, I'd want 5 LED strips per tube arranged hexagonally (one missing where it's mounted) - so one strip is a downlight 2 diagonal lights and 2 angled uplights. But what options are there re LED light beam angle ?
Bloody nightmare - hence consideration of getting existing tubes repaired !
@@bigclivedotcom Check marks.
Looking at migrating to bitchute. Not perfect but if they're prepared to make things perfect, I'll certainly migrate!
I don't understand what 95% of the stuff in there does, and yet I think I trust it more because it exists, then an import replacement bulb?
Now I'm sure lots of people would like to see your theoretical prediction put together
BTW 4.20 is the number of the American ruling on canabis/mariwana. ergo à comon name for the deed itself...
It’s more fun if you skip the formalities and just shove the end of the tube into the wall outlet. Of course, you’ll want to make sure you don’t use the shunted end, or you might set your beard alight! 😬 I’ve found this to be the best way to make an EOL video; though, I’d take it outside with a long extension cord, pack the tube with sparklers, thermite, and cut-off match heads, and re-glue the end on. Oh, and finding an area free of anything flammable is helpful! 🤣 Sounds like something on the TKOR channel, or maybe shango066. 🤠
It's like you are inside my head - I recently replaced three tubes in the garage with Sylvania LED tubes (from Wickes) which also came with 'dummy' starters (or so I assumed - I haven't opened mine!). a) that made me tear apart an old neon starter to see how it worked and b) it made me wonder what was in these new tubes and I thought "I wish Clive had done a tear-down of one of these". I wonder if it's the same circuitry as these Samsung tubes..
Appeal the verification check-mark removal!!!
I've heard others complaining of this issue as well and they appeal it, then it's put right back...
Good luck BC!!! :-)
Why use such complicated circuitry, when simple capacitive droppers work just as well (or not so well??)??
I mean, the Do(want to, but cannot)buy lamps by Philips (?Osram?) are working nicely, don't they? Or is there an issue, that us mere mortals are unable to grasp?
It is fused for 160mA due to possible fire hazard, even at this maximum power closely packed components can overheat as hell. Chinese manufacturers cannot understand that and don't care
You Tube probably want you to pay them before long to upload, because they know you are being funded elsewher since demoneytisation. Not a very clever move by them if thats the case. I wish you well.
I think YT figured out that the verify check didn't signify verification, just that you had passed a certain threshold in subscriber count. I'm not sure if they are going to change the criteria or just raise the threshold.
I recently opened up a florescent tube driver and all it had inside was a funny looking Christmas tree blub and some...... oh you just answered my question😕 I really should watch the vids before i start writing a question. Iv done this before what's wrong with me😖😭
There's a complicated circuit in the Phillips LED T12 replacement tube equivalent to this one. the ones that are directly connected to A/C are much simpler. I know because I bought a bunch of different kinds and the Phillips was the most complicated one.
oh yeah! one more thing, those Phillips replacement tubes indicate that they are designed to work with magnetic ballasts and shouldn't be used with electronic ballasts. I tested that and if used with incompatible ballast, they stop working.
420 = smoking weed
4:20 pm = weed time
4:20 am = when you realize you might have a problem
bigclivedotcom, I lived for a decade less than a kilometer from the birthplace of the number 4:20 in popular culture. There was a group of students at San Rafael High School in San Rafael, California who called themselves "The Waldos" in the early 1970s who for a time met daily after their after-school activities in front a statue of Louis Pasteur in the school courtyard at 4:20 PM to then drive out to the coast at the southern end of Point Reyes, California about 40km away to hunt for a cannabis patch that had been started by a Coast Guard serviceman and then had to be abandoned. As they passed each other at school they would say "4:20 Louis" to acknowledge their later meetup. They had a map but never found the patch. San Rafael was also home to the rehearsal studio of the Grateful Dead and once it hit that community it spread. I've used the number since 1987 as a cannabis reference but in the last 20 years it's become cliché commonplace in the USA. Apartment listings were perhaps the first place it entered mainstream as people advertised flats on a website in San Francisco called "Craigslist" that were "no smoking/420 friendly". My father had lunch once with the sculptor who carved the Pasteur statue, Beniamino Bufano. He was a prolific sculptor but his Louis Pasteur became his cultural masterpiece.
Use a QR code to personalize and symbolize your channel.
All those peanuts were bound to lead to increased mastication.
With your mega zoom in for people with small screens (thanks for that I often have a small screen) I think we had a better view than you 'cus you were trying to see what that FULL BRIDGE RECTIFIER was I would could see it easy.
I was just commenting on somebody else's video the other day about "our" celebrities... how we don't need no Johnny Depp because we've got Big Clive. ;)
Sylvania Erlangen has just launched their new development next generation LED fluorescent tubes by the name "Helios". They do not use the simple strip of cheap led inside a plastic pipe, but an actual glass tube with glass welded mounts like a traditional fluorescent tubes, coated with phosphor to diffuse the light, and the inside there are two rigid wires going from one end to the other and many, like 100 pieces of sequential parallel connected individual very high quality led filaments. Those are the real deal. If I would ever give in into this LED forced nonsense (says the guy who has 8 boxes of T12 fluorescent tubes stashed away for future use, some in halo 530 color even) I would definitely use the Helios ones. They are weather, moisture and chemical resistant, and with a proper ballast they could be used in factory settings where traditional fluorescent tubes are still king, mainly because of oil, dust, thinner fumes, etc. that would basically ruin and dissolve the cheap LEDs.
425 - isn't that the temperature that peanuts start to burn ?
@Natty Fatty Powerlifting Burning things is a bit of a hobby :D - there's an old solderers saying; "If you can smell bacon, you're holding the wrong end"!
I believe 420 started off as the California penal code section prohibiting marijuana; since then, 4:20 has become the sort of official time to smoke it, and April 20 (4/20 in the US, the rest of the world is bass ackwards) is basically National Pot Day.
4:20 is the mythical time of day stoners spark up the bong ........5 minutes later you have the 'munchies' ................and eat anything and everything in sight :D
Lol...
So ENERGY SAVINGs. ...
...
Just imagine billions of those electronic components will end up
In a fire 🔥 of some recycling plant.
... (* In atmosphere !!!).
Just thinking ...
How much ENERGY and Human work goes into
* Mining, transport, melting,
* Then ... Production of All those components
Then ..transport again
and putting tham into
Those circuits, .
Then transport again ...
Etc etc ...
... ( times ... (X) billions of them),
......
... WHAT WAS before
just
A Glass tube,
gas
and few metal peace's.
in place - and easy to recycle.
4:20, shortened to 420 has become a numerical code for marijuana. It all comes from some kids in school using it as the time they would meet behind the school to get high.
Oh hell, thanks for the vid big man, I'm going to replace the entire fitting now. This seems like too much of a kludge.
I believe this is a good video, I wandered off thinking of salty chewy nuts in my mouth and lost track
Is having to make and assemble all those components really better for the environment than the one 5ft tube that's been working fine for half a century and doesn't flicker like the LEDs under the kitchen units do? (There have also been several lots of 'link light' CFLs under the cabinets in that time too: each of which generation is identical except for the yearly redesign of the linking plugs, so you can never actually link another one without cutting the leads off and replacing with ordinary wiring connectors! That really used to annoy me, though I still have a single one that makes a handy lamp during DIY.)
Is there a simple fix for LED replacement 'bulbs' that flicker, by the way? My 12V under kitchen cupboard ones actually flicker in time with the oven fan. :/
Be careful with chocolate made by Hershey, as Reese's is. They use PGPR/E476 in nearly all their chocolate, in place of using cocoa butter. It's cheaper, you know. Who cares if it ruins the texture of the chocolate and tastes bad. Pennies matter! So you really must be careful and read the label with any US-made chocolate if you don't want to eat this stuff. EDIT: Freeze framing the video, I can see your Reese's DOES have the PGPR in it, as Polyglycerol polyricinoleate. My condolences. This is really a shame on the US manufacturers.
What the hell is the point of a retrofit fluorescent LED? Seems to defeat half the purpose of an LED... 120/240 shot up to the ridiculously high voltages of a ballast, then converted back down to LED voltages... Dowut?
Granted, I haven't finished the video, just seems a silly prospect to me.
420 came from the code the police used for marijuana use. As in," Calling all cars, we have a 420 in effect, blah blah blah.... Meet for donuts in 10 mins." Smokers just adopted all forms of the 420 to celebrate the plant, kinda like a big chronic ironic FU to authority.
I think the fuse in the starter is there to blow when some idiot puts a regular TL and the “led starter” in the same enclosure. Which would be a problem with just a link.
(4:20 is slang for marihuana, because of the code numbers allegedly used by American police on the publicly listenable police radio. You know “4 20 in progress, officer in hot pursuit!”, that sort of thing. It’s in the lingo now as 4:20 pm, 20th of the 4th, etc)
No it would not be reasonable clive. LOL. But carry on. Great video's these are,
By now you have figured out what 4:20 is correct? Well if not it’s the official American smoke time. So when a friend says hey it’s just about 4:20 you reply of course let’s go!
Just so happens my daughter was born on 4:20 April 20th at 4:20am in the morning. We couldn’t believe it! Of course when someone else explain it to us because we have no idea about things like that we’re law abiding citizens.
Now that your channel is not verified, I’m worried a very small Clive will start lying about his size
This is another circuit of bp2309 which can be understand
product.dzsc.com/product/infomation/236135/20130102025216355.html
Samsung Galaxy phones, Samsung ssds, Samsung appliances now Samsung light bulbs?
I can't remember if I've posted this before, but the Feit Electric 73992 www.feit.com/products/fixtures/utility/1850-lumen-4000k-single-4ft-led-utility-light/ that I have is an interesting critter, like this tube the input filtering and rectifier is at one end but connects to the LED strip with a 2 pin connector and the driver is at the other end and connects to the strip with a 3 pin connector. The strip is 2 parallel sections of LEDs in series. The interesting part is that it uses what normally would be a boost converter arrangement to drive the LEDs but the LED negative is the same as the rectified mains positive. That took some time to wrap my head around especially since the markings on the strip are p-gnd for the rectified negative, - for the rectified positive and LED negative, and + for LED positive. The controller IC is a tiny SOT23-6. It is non-isolated and the inductor has a feedback winding.
were working on legalization over here in the U.S. also, if youd like, i can teach n show u Anything youd like to learn about buds :p i learned from my mom, who learned from her mom :p the whole point of teaching us young was so when the school did their drug thing none of us would b yellin about how we have stuff like that around our house lol :p n it totally worked..so.. ..also, im self employed, im a mechanic..not gettin rich anytime soon but still.. that along with the rest of my siblings n cuz's being fairly successful, n parents also, shows it doesnt turn ppl careless or permalazy :p
The verification mark issue was because the feeble-minded could apparantly not distinguish between a video with 'Poundland' in the title and the official channel from Poundland... or whichever other brand/celebrity.
Have a great night Clive 👍
All those extra parts are a powerline transmitter, those tubes were sold to embassies in order to install clandestine bugs. Clever, eh?
I wonder how many of those LED tubes experience a blown fuse, with people them throwing them away. It's worth it to keep the failed tubes and use all the parts (after replacing the bad component(s), reconstruct a different type of light, and continue using them for other lighting. I'm too much of a techno-nerd to throw stuff away that cost good money to throw out because of a wee cost of a part.