This Simple BRAKE JOB On My F-250 Cost OVER $800
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- Опубликовано: 27 авг 2024
- When I bought my 2018 Ford F-250 we noted that the rotors were cracking and should probably be replaced. 30,000 miles later and the brakes are done for, they've started squealing and there's a bit of grind to a stop. Today we're throwing it all in the trash and installing a new everything. Apparently this is typical of the factory brakes and you're just expected to change it all however that comes at a big cost over $800 for these massive pads and rotors. At least by the end of the day the old Platinum will be nice to drive again.
Ratcheting Pad Expander:
www.oreillyaut...
Front Brake Pads:
www.oreillyaut...
Front Brake Rotor:
www.oreillyaut...
Rear Brake Pads:
www.oreillyaut...
Rear Brake Rotor:
www.oreillyaut...
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#FordF250 #CarmaxWarranty #FordTrucks #OreillyPowered
16 year Ford master tech here…..the calipers are supposed to be removed from the brackets. One, it makes the job sooo much easier, and two, you’re SUPPOSED to wire brush where the clips sit to clean off the rust (keeps the pads from dragging due to poorly fitting clips, and makes the clips easy to install) After that, Install the rotor, reinstall the bracket with the clips pre installed, install the pads onto the bracket, compress the pistons on the caliper, put the caliper onto the bracket, install your bolts, torque, and you’re done.
Not separating the caliper from the bracket is why this job took you several hours….instead of 2….max.
Additionally, based on my experience, even with the heat checks, those rotors were TOTALLY serviceable. GENERAL rule of thumb, you can machine rotors AT LEAST one time (unless the pads are worn down to metal) before needing replacement. Refer to the measurement spec that is stamped right on the rotor to be sure.
BTW, Oreillys machines rotors. I assume, because you’re such a good customer of theirs, I’ll bet they would have machined them for free….or at least at a very discounted rate.
Can’t trust those Ford rotors, I went to change a wheel speed sensor on my 6.7 powerstroke , had to remove the rotor, well by removing it with a 10lb sledge hammer and a block of wood, put it back went for a drive, boom warped rotor. Best to replace anything and everything that has to do with a broken part on those Fords. Got a bad fuse? Boom need new fuse box, bad injector? Cummins swap baby
Back in the late 70s when I was running an auto parts store, I had a customer who had a rural newspaper route. He had a Datsun 510 wagon that he used for the route, and he was (understandably) hard on brake pads. I offered him a good deal on a whole case of pads, and since he was putting a new set of pads on the car about every 2-3 weeks(!), he jumped on the deal! He said he could change a set of pads in about 10 minutes with hand tools... including jacking up the car!
Callahan Brake Pads have always fit perfectly for me, and there's a guarantee right there on the box.
I love the fact that JR almost never wears his own merch and the tells you to buy some “but not like this.”
That would be cringe
@@honchoryanc He could still wear teal Hoovie shirts, like all the other members of the Wichita RUclips Collective
It amazes me how many people out there will just throw the cheapest pads the auto parts store has to offer and never even look at the rotors. My rotors are always turned or replaced. I'm amazed the OE ones where that bad already
Take a look at the statistics of what most people make, then compare it to the life they live that you can see.
What you’ll see is most people can barely afford their lease/5+ year loan, let alone rotors/pads. They live based on the next monthly payment they have to make. They own absolutely nothing, then complain when what they are own is “taken” because they can’t make their payments🤮
Hopefully lubed the caliper slide pins off camera if not need to put it back on the left to do that because that might be what caused your brake pad wear in the first place. And if you don't do that no matter how easy you're on your breaks or how good the brake pads are they'll prematurely wear out it may even damage the caliper and mounting bracket, if you did not lube the pins. If of the pins are not lubed, the caliper will seize on the pins are not move. The pistons will push only one brake pad against the rotor and will have to work harder to stop the truck causing it to were the inside brake pad. Also it's a lot easier to reassemble if you take the calipers off the mounting brackets.
Glad I’m not the only one who fights with brake pad clips when doing what should otherwise be a simple job. And that we both buy Hawk or StopTech/PowerStop.
Pad clips on a ford brake job have always been a nightmare when I do them
If you have access to one, a sand blaster is the best tool to use on the caliper brackets. The clips still aren’t easy to get on after but they are less impossible.
It’s so funny you mentioned the radar detector at the…I was literally thinking about it just a moment prior when you showed the front end.
With new pads and rotors, the truck is now ready for track days again. You in the truck and your brother in the Audi.
A tool I don't have yet!?!? Awesome. I've been using the cheap harbor freight caliper tool forever and it sucks. It's like a plate & 1 screw. Gonna get one of these. Thanks!
That black "vert" was a 62 Impala possibly craddling ye ole "409", as rare as a "DZ 302" only in a 67 to 69 Z/28.
I got 200k out of my 2004 f250 gas truck no joke but replacements only lasted less than 50k non factory! Definitely do the upgraded stuff!
I did my 15 f150, power stop extreme duty, all the way around, @ 80k, as well. Much better performing setup, than the oem's that were warped around 30k.
Should’ve gone powerstop brakes. Literally they are game changers. Love them on my 2016 powerstroke.
I'm on my second ford vehicle with powerstops - and I agree... they're nice.
Probably is a big upgrade, I see them on a lot of Super Dutys. I’m trading this in before the end of the year, kinda hate that I had to do this. Time for a new Platinum or a Powerboost 🍻
I'm not sold on PowerStop rotors. I've used them several times. In the rust belt, slots tend to rust up because no contact with the pads and they become noisy.
@@n9wox you could paint them or even use anti seize in the slots
@@atomicbogator6799 you cannot use anti seize in the slots. Drilled and slotted rotors are no good on a heavy duty truck anyway. Raybestos specialty truck rotors and severe duty fleet pads are the way to go.
Seems like parts over the last few year's have just been junk. A guy was doing a video in northern california fixing an 07 dodge 4wd drive truck, couldn't find any oil, except some of the really thin 0-something oil after an engine rebuild, and could only find a frahm oil filter that he hated buying. The month's of backed up work because of part availability is crazy to, and some parts are no longer available.. At least you always have something interesting going on, but waiting to see the crusher completed and crushing a car would be great. Your dad cracks me up, knows what he is doing. God bless.
Just did my back breaks on a 2016 transit connect. 230.00. Took forever because of the design. Had to use a box wrench for the top caliber bolt.
It looks like you really need an alignment. I can't believe how great the rear tires and brakes look though if they truly are original. Man, those rotors are massive, too.
I like the centric ceramic pads. They have always worked well for me and no brake dust is a plus.
some would say that when depressing caliper pistons to open bleed screw to remove debris and fluid in caliper. formerly I never did but after having a seized caliper piston bound but what looked like abused engine oil with dirt and grease added it seems like a good idea. BUT the choice is yours.
I do a ton of highway driving. Bought my 2021 f250 factory new with 6 miles on it when I get home. I changed the front pads about 70,000 and I'm changing my rears right now at 95,000. Again more than half of that mileage is highway and not breaking tho.
but did you bleed the brakes and add Motul fluid?
I feel like your just naturally good at everything im waiting for a moped repair video 📹 🙌 👌
The old Honda Helix still needs a wheel bearing 🤔
I mean you could just Flintstone it to a stop. 😂😂😂😂
You'd need a lot of foot power 😂
I was proud my 2012 Honda Accord (V6 Coupe) made it to 130k before needing a full brake job til then it was pads only.
"We are here."
(Because we're not all there)
A paraphrased quote from Rainman Ray.
So when are you going to show us that abandoned Learjet that you haven't mentioned yet?
I mean, you did get a firetruck...😄
I would have gone with Power Stop brakes instead. At about $300 per axle they aren't cheap but they work better and last way longer than the stock parts do.
I love those purple street lights!
10:15 I don't get why people always say "Sludge" hammer, it is Sledgehammer... Peter Gabriel even wrote us a song so we could get the name right - Sledgehammer!
When the after market is better than oem
Super weird, right? I think rotors should last longer than 60-80k too 🤔
@@WatchJRGo depend with things that are used to tow you're better off changing them around that millage because the heat will make them crack.
It's heavy AF and that generates alot of heat
I swear, everyone comes by the Shop to play X-Box!
With that MASSIVE DISPLAY (TV), I would too...
7:46 learn something new everyday, god that tool is awesome
Love it, best tool I’ve bought in awhile 💯
Rally Fighter 💪🏼 RALLY FIGHTER PLEASE 🙏🏼
🥈 early with the thing I'm not doing!
It's not just ford with crappy factory rotors, had to replace my Ram's at 60000k (40000m).
My brother had an older F-150 that needed new wheel bearings. The bearings were actually part of the hub and rotors. He had to replace the entire assembly because of bad bearings. He’s got a Chevy now.
My uncle has a truck like that. Its a 2006 or 2007 Ford F-150. I didn’t even know they made them like that until I had to order him parts.
The first time I took the wheels off my 2008 F250 it took chains through the steel wheels and a 20 ton jack and even with that still had to break out the propane torch to heat the hub to get the wheels off. Then it took a 10lb sledgehammer to get the disks off (everything rusted solid onto the hub and hub face). An entire weekend just to get the wheels and rotors off. Needless to say I put copper anti seize on everything putting it back on and has been no problem since. Factory refuses to use any anti seize between these parts
2 hours with 2 guys. John Ross you have good friends.
Ouch the price for those parts is insane!
As a woman who is just getting into car repair, brakes are the first thing i learned to do, it is such a money saver. But i don't drive an F250 (Altough i'd love to!)
I downshift and coast to stops. I’ve never had to do brake work on any car I owned. Saved a ton of money on brake components and gas.
Ive got 45k on my f250 and tires are near gone, i doubt yours wouldve lasted 80k miles, if they did thats amazing
$800 for pads and rotors but they leave out the $2 clips. Good job!
Big truck and all that trailering probably help wear them out. Unless your trailer has brakes, I don’t remember
Most of the trailers have brakes, whether they work or not is always questionable 😛
You gotta pay to play: big truck = big brakes = big rotors = big💲💲💲
get your def at a truck stop its way easier just stick the nozzle in and go I do it even on my little tdi jetta with the tank in the trunk
Chevy s10 xtreme build PLEASE!!!!
How weird, me and brother are about to do brakes on his truck. I've never seen a rotor wear down like his but I'm also new to disc brakes 🤷♂️
eric throws himself into every job. get that man to coveralls to keep at the shop for when he crawls on the floor
I think you need to get a headband light for those tight areas that we can't see you what you're trying to illustrate. Streamlight makes one, as well as others. :-)
I’ve noticed something with you JR, any new tool, is an awesome tool and you don’t know how you live life without it beforehand lol I’m the same way ha ha
I do have to say tho, then factory parts look HUGE and super heavy duty, go check out some dodge 2500 rotors ,man they look tiny compared to these and always heard complaints about brakes on a Cummins dodge... is that true honestly? I’ve never worked on one or owned one to know!
I’m a tech so i work in the automotive field everyday and the worst calipers to take off on any vehicle are chevys cause they lock tight the bracket bolts from the factory and they suucckkkk to take apart. Especially when you can’t get an impact in there
I once bought a shogun where someone had snapped the squeeler off the inner pad, outer pads looked good through alloys. Wrecked disc which needed wheel bearing dismantling, seized sliders sorting and one of new discs wasn't machined properly and had horrendous runout so had to do again.
If you have to force your pads in, you are doing something wrong. Second cheap quality aftermarket like from AutoZone never fit right and that is why you have to grind the ears to fit in place. I'm a automotive technician for over 20 years and I have seen it all. You save money and time getting well know aftermarket parts or OEM (Like Akebono, EBC) but those store brand name pads are all made in china once size fits most. That is where your installation issues began and you will ended up with pads dragging, not sitting properly and uneven wear, plus the compound material aren't the best either. If you are going to do the job do your research and buy it online not at the local auto part store unless you are in a pinch.
Thanks for that enjoyed the content.
@WatchJRGo
As to retracting the pistons in the caliper ...... I always just use a pry bar while the caliper is still on the disc. Right through the center of the caliper.
Just drove 3hrs to my sisters cause her Accord was was making a grinding noise and smelled funny so I pull the front wheels off the pads are gone nothing left one pad was even missing the rotors are of course trashed 1 caliper was sticking the other was leaking and 1 bearing was toast!!! I ended up staying a whole day and replacing everything up front brake wise, bearings, front struts,sway bar links.
You really need a 3/4 drive 18 inch breaker bar and single hex sockets from 17mm to 36mm. Trying to break big bolts loose with that little girly ratchet is a joke.
I have a 36 inch snap on ratchet for those occasions
LOL -- I'm watching this video and a Ford service ad comes up. Marketing algorithm fail.
Man you need the matco 30 inch ratchet 1/2 drive flex head.
Best purchase For those really stuck bolts
You will pay for it but it's life time warranty
Akebono makes great pads, $60/set for front or rear and includes hardware.
I used Akebono pads when I recently did a brake job on my car and the pads are great. Rims stay super clean.
Everyone makes a big deal about $800. Decent rotors easily are over $100+ each, and decent pads can be $100+ per axle. I was surprised it wasn't more.
I did etc yellow stuff pads, it was like a big brake kit. Totally worth it
Get them to sponsor do a before and after test
Most shops won't do a brake job unless they change out the calipers complete. Took my company 2000 E350 in for brakes back in 2005, cost $2600.
Scam shops
@@honchoryanc
It's not so much a scam as they are protecting themselves from potential liability if there is a problem down the road. Especially when it comes to brakes. I personally know a shop who was sued because they replaced the caliper and rubber brake line on one side of the car and not the other. He was trying to save the customer money because she just couldn't afford to get it done at that time. He wrote it up on the ticket that she should return asap to get the other side replaced. 3 months later the other side line blew and she crashed her car. A lawyer filed suit and it was cheaper to settle the case than to fight it. From that day forward he refuses to do any brake job without replacing the calipers and rubber lines. It's sad but thats the world we live in.
@@12yearssober lol, no, its a scam. Unless the calipers are siezed, or leaking, no reason to change them.
@@honchoryanc Well it was a large West coast tire chain shop that claimed liability issues as company policy.
Jeez, you're not kidding at $800. Just the rotors were $750 before tax. I just did four rotors and pads on an Accord and it set me back $650, so $800 sound cheap for a 250. Dealer offered $1,150 to turn the existing rotors and slap new pads, or $1,325 to replace rotors and pads.
I haven't had a stealership do a break job for 20+ years, but it warms my heart knowing how much I saved.
$1k plus for turning rotors and new pads on an Accord.😵 I charged my neighbor $40 for labor to install his provided new rotors & pads front only on a civic. Done in about an hour.
Do you still have the sweet bumper to bumper warranty with CarMax?
Till 125,000 miles 🍻
I've always had to grind the ears on the pads or they bind, overheat and fail in roughly 17k miles leaving burnt pads and rotors. I'm in upstate NY 😁
This video was outrageous!
I have a 2017 Ford F250 Lariet 4x4, I took it to ford at 50,000 for front brakes and rotors cost me $450 for the ford forever brakes ( just pay for labor ) so it should cost me about $250 on the front from now on. And today I took my truck to ford for a rear brake pads and rotors at 117,000 miles not bad. But it is going to cost me around $975.00 for the rear brake pads, rotors, and labor which is the bitch !! Because these HD truck have full floating axle it takes ( whatever the hell that means ) a lot more time to disassemble the rear end. The rear end brake and rotor job at other ford dealerships and non dealership brake shops gave me estaimates of $1175.00 up to $1450.00 it is very exspensive to own these trucks !!! I guess thats why I see so many on the used car lots. Not just Fords, but all HD trucks.
That’s what she said
Brakes and shocks are in my Ranger's future. Not looking forward to it, but at least she doesn't weigh 4 tons like that beast you drive!
Nice caliper tool!!!
Could you save some money resurfacing the rotors? Make sense?
"a 10th of an inch"... Metrard! 😎
My 2020 bed lights keeps coming on and off what’s going on?
Could those rotors not have been turned and save some money?
Wow. JR and his brother in law put me to shame. Or I proved them 100% right you need the right tools to get the job done.
I must have taken 8 hours this last Saturday to swap the front calipers and replace the front rotors and pads on my 2005 Toyota Matrix.
The biggest thing that slowed me down. I didn't have a 1/2 impact swivel. And an impact gun would never clear the brackets on the back even if I did have the swivel socket. Doing by hand with a breaker bar was not fun. Especially when I had bad side strain on my left side I gave myself at a Salvage yard earlier in the day.
No flipping way were the driver side caliper bracket bolts tightened only 80 lbs. Pretty sure somebody I had work on my car had a power tool that way overtightened those bolts.
I'm seriously considering getting a power ratchet. Something 100lbs or more torque rated would be great for future repair jobs.
Akebono brakes are amazing
Dude you're the man bro keep up the good work
I like the way you tried to sneak in that the pads had to be modified. Too bad you couldn't have shown us how/why you had to modify the pads to make them fit?!?!? That was kind of the most important part, as it is probably the one step that keeps most from attempting a job like this on their own.
The Dodge Charger 392 scat packs with the brembo brakes are $2400 with labor JUST for the front. That’s before taxes
When you refer to ''a hair'' what kind of hair do you mean? LOL That old Chevrolet Impala was a beauty. That's what you should look at getting
You don't lube your slide pins. Need to remove the caliper from the bracket everytime.
Great video from JR.
What no grease on the slide pins?
13:10
Why would the exhaust brake set off the check engine light?
Big brakes = Big Bucks. I remember my first four-wheel brake job on a 3/4 ton. I guess I was spoiled owning 1/2-ton pickups.
Big truck, big brakes, sure. What about small car, big brakes? 1990 Volvo 240 wagon. 4 piston calipers up front, 2 piston on back, all made by Gerling. 6 flex lines. 17 litres to flush the brake fluid. Don't forget the pressure relief valves for the rear brakes. Those are from Saab Aerospace! Maybe a bit of overkill, but that is the stock factory brake system on the base 4 cylinder car going all the way back to 1974!
My brother drives a 2016 F-350 Power Stroke. Then again, he lives in the Yukon. The roads are very unkind up there.
Doesn't mixing the metals causes corrosion
Man you got that super nice shop with all those cool tools, but you ain’t got no breaker bars ? Lol
You want to use the engine brake to keep the turbo vanes moving thought their entire movement.
Why not wait a couple years and get a hybrid diesel? The new new fuel economy regsare going to make them do it
What am I missing trucks on the hoist and there still working on the floor
parts store expensive, i got rear carbon creamic brake pads, slotted/drilled rotors my truck 100 a set on amazon.
Hey
This job isn't covered by the carmax warranty?
Brakes are always just wear and tear, in the same way they wouldn’t cover new tires.
Nope, wear item like tires 🍻
OK thanks!
When I bought my 89 Grand Marquis new, the extended warranty covered the calipers but not the discs and pads UNLESS the discs and pads were worn prematurely because of a caliper not working properly. Unlimited mileage for 5 years. Came in handy considering the car had over 120,000 miles when it was 5 years old
Is the “CHECK ENGiNE” light on?
Nope, hasn’t been since it sprayed all its fuel out 😂
I'm surprised you didn't use drilled and slotted rotors.
WHOOP WHOOP Thats the sound of ........... 🙏🌍✌️ 🖖
I've found that that the tabs on most pads are just a bit too big and need some filing to fit properly and not bind and sometimes i've had to remove a fair bit of material🤔
Shit this reminds me I need to go buy DEF Tmrw 😂🤦🏻♂️
Shoulda bought a Cummins. I haven’t even watched the video yet. I’ve just been wanting to say that ever since you bought the truck.
Ebay has a entire brake set for under 300$. And you did it yourself. 800$?? Crazy 🙃
it's always better to get all the hardware.... heat destroys them.... spend the small extra amount and no issues
The caliper bolts aren't that tight they have thread lock from the factory, a little heat solves that then you could have used your tiny little ratchet.
You don’t take apart and grease your guide pins?