i have done hundreds of tattoos now and im upgrading all my stuff because i have gotten that good. but this video really helped me because i couldnt find this information any where explained fully and i still cant find it but when i watched this while ago it helped me understand it alot better thanks. ps more like that people in professional shops started out scratching then none people are watching this for a reason why critisize
Thank god you have this video up. your right, other videos are crap and dont show you how to set up and tune the actual machine. just the grip and needle. This is amazing, thank you!
im a "artist" and i always wanted to tattoo,im just learning and im glad theres people out there that help us scrachers.For people to come out and say that were messing up the industry is bullshit! Some people including myself dont have the time to be someones slave in a shop and work for free just so one can teach them,to old for that shit, i have not tattooed anyone and will not do so till i have learned from reading,seeing and practice. All u need nowadays is COMMON SENSE,anyhows great video
Finaly some easy to follow tutorial how to set-up tattoo machines for lining and shading. It was pain in ass for me to configure properly tattoo machine without knowing this process. Now I am little more educated how to do it, thanks to you, so big thank you MATE
thank u... i have been tattooing for a year now and im self taught so this video was very helpful... i have yet to find one i could understand and that told me something other than how to set my needles.... i figured that out the first time i tattooed myself... this helped alot so thank u very much!!!! u rock!
well... ive watched the video and read quite a few comments . all i have to say to fatt is , thanx buddy , that was a good explaination and great close up to show exactly what you described .. i dont know about elsewhere but in australia , your flat out getting a tatoo artist of any kind . so i appreciate you taking the time to help ppl out ...after taking your advise my guns work great thanx ..
This is very helpful for artist starting out even for artist that have been inking for awhile. Theres alot of artist out there that go by ear then when you go to show your apprentice how tune your not sure how to explain it to them. I wish I had youtube when I first started out. Thanks for the Vid Big Country
I really like how you broke it down to where everybody can under stand-I been tattooing for 20 plus years and I've been trying to explain to my apprentices would do good the watch your vid-GOOD JOB*ND THANKS
Just wanna say thanks so much for posting these videos. Bottom line, is tattooing is an art form and we should treat it like one. You don't see guitarists telling someone "No, you have to apprentice under me, clean my house, polish my guitars and let me treat you like shit for a year before I teach you how to play guitar.." or someone who paints telling someone "Well, you have to apprentice under me before I teach you to paint". So, why is tattooing any different? Art is art. Thanks, man!
Great video. I'm nearing the end of my apprenticeship and this is a great video for tuning reference. I was having a little trouble with my new Kuro Sumi shader but I got it tuned up real nice after watching this. Thanks!
just wanted to say thanks cause i got new machines and they were built for me but was having trouble setting them up just right and now they are going great! thanks again
Bro ur the first one tht has actually explained it very very precise and I learned a lot more from you than any other so thank you I appreciate it very much for you posting this video you helped me out a lot have to see another one of your vids take care man
im a "scratcher" myself, never heard the term but i like it! great video, very informative in my opinion. thumbs up from me! looking forward to watching more of your videos!!!
Followthrough relates to the movement of the front spring off of the contact point,while pressure is being applied by the rear spring.Any chatter or skippage results in a reading of other than 0.Small minute adjustments can change this number.The angle at which your contact is set,and contact gap are the most common.Adjust the contact gap a little and retry.For liners as almost up and down angle is good for you contact,while for shading its better with about 7-8 o'clock look.
You are the freaking man! This video is the best and most truthful I've seen. I've been tattling at home for about 2 years now and still have problems tuning my machines. Thanks for the video brotha. Look forward to more from you.
i wanted to say thanks a bunch for being true to yourself and posting the video on tuning a machine...i spent about 2and a half years begging to apprentice-even if i had to scrub toilets for 4 years! i have an extensive portfolio and graduated with a batchelors of science from the art institute in oregon..personally i felt that being a female made most people think i was a joke..so, i decided to "apprentice" with several scratchers&i learned A LOT. your video will help many others! keep it up!
Hey thanks.. learned something new today! I had no idea that it needed the same spacing above and below the spring which makes a lot of sense... good tutorial! And I like your power supply.. very professional looking!!
I just started getting into tattooing. Im going to use this guide to set up my guns properly now. I have done a few and i think out of the box my liner is running great.
Thanks for the post! Just got my rigs going and every little bit of knowledge helps. I know it's up to each individual to get their own style, but it's nice to have a reference point to go from! Nice work!
@63Eco ive seen scratchers fix a lot of tattoos from pros and the finished product looks amazing. i can understand that there are definately a lot of them out there that are either really bad or are not sterile and they r the ones that should get the negativity and not the ones that actually do a good job at it. I dunno about most places but where I am from, its really hard to get an apprenticeship let alone find a decent shop that can even do good tattoos but there are good scratchers here
To each his own really.I like to setup the air gap at about 4-5mm and the contact gap at about3.5mm-5mm....but this also depends on springs,i like to use soft springs like 16 ga,i generally like a little wider of a spring on the back and thinner on the front for color machines.Also i like to use a heavier armautre bar.this lets the machine have more pushing power with running softer and slower.
Did good on the vid bro I like the way I have mine set which is about the same flex in the bar for a shader is always good tips for non pros if you keep the needle at the edge of the tip it won't go in far at all for outline makes straighter and non blown out lines and shading and coloring go a lil deeper
@74ALW rs-round shader......rl-round liner.....m1-weaved mag....m2-stacked mag.....f-flats...........they come in different sizes.....ranging from 1 needle and ive seen up to 100......liners are for lining.....round shaders are for building lines/and small shading......weaved mags are good for color and greywash....stacked mags are good for tribal(but they tear skin easy)...hope this helps
look at the gap between the top of the front coil and the bottom of the armature bar (the bar right above the coil) the gap should be smaller on the liner and larger on the shader, you are probably going to need to adjust and tune both a bit to find that "right" setting
exelent video bro !! im learning tattooing and this is a huge help men,one last thing,what power supply do you recomend me to buy for my machines? (actually i got an Stealth tattoo machine)
@parsleysprigs not always does the sound say alot...you can have two liners and one sound differently.The materials they are made from can make a difference,also having an o-ring makes a big difference.The best way to feel out the voltage need is to start with it barely running and increase til it hums steadily,but at the same time its not loud as hell..right when it has that steady sound is usually the sweet spot,just make sure it has enough punch forthejob
I've been a professional tattoo artist for 21 years and have won over 25 trophies at conventions around the country. You go ahead and keep telling people the wrong info and I'll keep making money by fixing up the work of scratchers. Thanks. You're keeping me in business.
Thanks for all the info man! I actually found some great machines at a great price. butim still lokking for other machines that I dont have to fork out an arm and a leg. so if you find any please give me a heads up. Do you know where I can get some good coils for a good price?
many ways to tune...never saw a blink...but you can see the armature bar wave and get duty cycle pretty close,and some people like to say that its tuned right when the waving almost stops....but I like a more in depth approach to it
thats generally how they are set....depends on the tattoo to whether i use one or not though....I have a long stroke and shorter stroke as well....the shorther stoke fills a little faster and shades the color in better but the long is slow and not a roughh on the skin.....my long is running at like 80-105 and the short runs 90-110
Actually spring length is only designated for the machine you are using.A longer spring will have different tension than a shorter one,but if you can only use one spring then you can only use one.A machine should have springs made for it to be as good as it can function.But I have longer springs on some liner than my shaders and vice versa,tension is the key with those.
Hello, Thanks for all the info. I am impressed that you know as much as you do, for someone who is self taught. Could you speak about where exactly you learned the more detailed info, books, lectures etc. Also, how did you buy a machine from Eikon. When I tried to make a purchase they told me that I had to be a licensed tattoo shop. I would appreciate your info. John
I really struggle to understand why there is such a negative attitude from tattooists toward people wanting to learn. It's an art and yeah I agree it should be shared and loved. Some people can't actually get apprenticeships. Because of that, does that mean they have to stop wanting to do the thing they love or have a real great interest in? I don't think so. I'm starting out and it's vids like this that help a lot. I know the rules, the do's and don't. People who want to learn aren't stupid
I will clarify as much as i can...the air gap is taken from the gap between the front coil core(the metal inside of it,pretty much the middle) and the armature bar....to truly get the best measurment you should remove the front spring for this...basically this gap should be at least the gap your trying to acheive on the contact gap...but it can be more...the more bend in it the harder it will hit but the more voltage it will need too...but there is a lot more to it
DUDE THANKS. I bought a tattoo gun that suppose to be a shader and liner and was trying to figure out how to set it for each. you gave me a better understanding. if you got some more info send it to me . PLEASE...lol
Hi. I really found your video very helpful, but there are some things I really wanted to know is how many grams of spring tension should a liner, a shader and a color packer have? And I think that plays a really important role in the machine. If you have a idea please help me. Thanks
theres many ways I can use the same identical parts and make two different machines.Most of it is tension of the springs,having different guages help,but still need to be set right.Smaller uf capacitors will make a machine dump cycle shorter so it makes a faster machine.the gaps all around are made by tension and adjusted accordingly witht he amount of tension desired....theres a lot to it man been building and fixing machines for years now and still elearn a new trick here and there
I have a important question. When shading do you do like a check mark kind of shade or always keep the needle in the subdermis and just use different tones of grey? The first part of my question is like this, do you put the needle in for dark and pull out while making a sweeping motion Making it less dark the shallower the needle is?
where do you buy your tattoo equiptment from i got a kit but its terrible the videos i seen of you tattooing the lines go in nice and clean straight away and shading looks like your doing it with ease could you recommend me on what liner, shader, power supply, ink i should get much appreciated!
I like your tutorial. It's much better than many of the tutorials done by the "pros." But here's a tip. I took me forever to figure out how to just turn the frigging thing on and make it buzz! You should probably start out showing how to plug everything in and how to connect those clips to the machine...
@Tattoogirl1nonly I dont really know waht they use as their setup,and depending on what area you tattoo it makes a difference as well.....but as for building lines its good to use a shader type machine,as it lets you go over lines more....basically you wantit to run like a colored pencil works....about a nickel gap...2-3mm
hey thanks ,, how bout on a color packer? heavier a bar and more volts ? and would u use your packer to shade in the heavier shadows first ? thanks agin .
dude, thank you!!!! great starting tips. keep making videos. two questions, what custom machines do you run and where did you get that power supply???? thanks.
@lindamist The o-ring allows the machine to run more quietly as well as it releives some of the stress on the springs,they don't have much function,and you can run without them many artist do,but if tuned with then you need to keep it,and vice versa
I got every one of my tattoos in the pennitentiary, which is to say 11 years earned me a lot of ink. I learned how to shoot there, and now thats my bread n butter. Ive never had one infection, or Ive never had anyone get infected after I hit em. Its called cleanliness. If you dont take care of your fresh tats and keep the area clean and sanitized, its your fault if it gets infected. I can say though, theres no cleaner spot that Ive ever worked out of than my home.
depends on what machine your speaking of...I really am against doing that first off.I like the tension guage but best thing is to have a machine running the way you like it then take the readings,that way its your setting
@fattasticvoyage thanks dude. great info and awesoem vids. doin my firstt ribal tomorrrow,, so thanks on the info below too . run my color packer ,, nice n steady and dont kill the skin ,, can it be done in one pass do you think or are tribals usually two sessions?
nice video...highly informative...thank you very much...and to hell with these people who have the need to keep tattoo an esoteric art only the priviledged can learn...screw that anyone should be able to learn something and make a living doing it right so keep on tattooing man.
thanks for the easy to understand info....there is room for even studio owners to learn as I fix many so called pro stuff ups and i had to teach myself to start with as in my day no 1 would apprentice a female. Quit hating and as pro's get the right info out there that way all risks are reduced there is enough skin on this planet for us all to share!
@fattasticvoyage oh aright man thanks for the info! And by build do you mean from scratch or just assemble parts? You should post a vid of your improved work
ohhh it also depends on your springs as well to if it will work right like that.....basics are short stoke fast for line and longer stroke slower for color and shade and short stroke slow for portrait type
also this is for a machine that is set up aldready as well....by thti mean it was put together right....the contacts are in the rightpositions...the coils are shimmed so they are right....if you got one of theose eby machines theres a good chance its not right and it will need some work befre proper fucnction if it will ever do it?
thanks and i really cant wind coils because of carpeltunnel....I have before it is hard and tedious..basically make sure they go in the same direction on both or it wont work
I'm a scratcher also but have been lucky enough to giving tips by professional tattooist, but fattasticvoyage gave you some clues to problems, also your nylon washers are not separating your binder screws from the frame...which messes with the current...you may have to rebuild your machine correctly which is good practice...good luck fellow scratcher
well techniacally no you can use the same springs on all mahines...but using softer fornt springs on a shader help alot and make a softer hitting machine that damages less...also the rear is a big difference soft and stiffer can work but thats up to you...i like a good 18 on the back and a 16 on the front its a good pair but some may have different opinoins
could u make a video on the accual art of shading like techniques that work best for diffrent styles or what angles u have to hold the mags that would b awsome
ATLAST!!!! somebody that knows what hes talking about! firstly who gives a crap about sharpz machines oooh cheap frills its a brand! was an ITS frame anyway!....great vid...machines look&sound quality! i have watched this loads of times and am setting my machines up the same way today....very informative, many thanks, post more tat vids please!
is there any reason you place the o ring to the armature bar in mine itd under the front spring over the screw that hold the front spring down does this make a difference
@juarez122191 the reason for the o rign is to silent the machine,it also adds some retention into the tension of the springs as well....i put mine under the a-bar to really just keep it there as some of my machine have small bolts and cant be used on top....it might make a differenct but i wouldnt know
For a coloring machine you want thinner and or smaller gauged springs....as well as you gap can be further apart...you want it when running good and touching the coils corecctly to slow down and hit very soft when you touch it softly with your fingr on the nipple....may ways to do it than this but this is probably the easiest...but if you olor is just not staying in i do not know maybe new inks is what you need or use oinment more....I hope this helps
@edgarsanchez1904 Speed just means the needles are going to go up and down faster(cycle).You can tattoo with as fast as a cycle as you want,thats totally up to you.When I do portraits and want a smoother gradiation I tend to use a faster running shader.But speed is going to determined more by your tensions in the springs,gaps,and capacitor than anything.IT is definitely not determined by more voltage.I like 90-110 CPS for most shading...for smoothes like 120-125
@fattasticvoyage i think the problem was i didnt have enough tension because i bent the amature back a little and it moves more now,, but thanks, keep up the good work! x
@ricky20000 you want it too touch your front coil of ur coil but the back coil's core should have about a business card gap between it...the reason two coils are used is for effeicency and that why a machine is usually made from metal,or they use what is called a yoke,this lets both coils work as one.The front coil is what u make ur adjustments on as it is your ON OFF for the the current....but u could have too much tensin,not enough power...it could be alot of things...
so ive been trying to figure this out, is the only difference between a liner and a shader the distance between the armature bar, the contact spring and the coils?
@HungryGuyStories there are rca connectors you can buy thats just one plug,but as far as the connecting themachine,its usually straight forward...one plug for the pedal one for the clipcord....the clipcord ends go into the twp slots....usually no positiv or negative,but thats only dependent upon ur capacitor....
i have done hundreds of tattoos now and im upgrading all my stuff because i have gotten that good. but this video really helped me because i couldnt find this information any where explained fully and i still cant find it but when i watched this while ago it helped me understand it alot better thanks. ps more like that people in professional shops started out scratching then none people are watching this for a reason why critisize
Thank god you have this video up. your right, other videos are crap and dont show you how to set up and tune the actual machine. just the grip and needle. This is amazing, thank you!
im a "artist" and i always wanted to tattoo,im just learning and im glad theres people out there that help us scrachers.For people to come out and say that were messing up the industry is bullshit! Some people including myself dont have the time to be someones slave in a shop and work for free just so one can teach them,to old for that shit, i have not tattooed anyone and will not do so till i have learned from reading,seeing and practice. All u need nowadays is COMMON SENSE,anyhows great video
Finaly some easy to follow tutorial how to set-up tattoo machines for lining and shading.
It was pain in ass for me to configure properly tattoo machine without knowing this process.
Now I am little more educated how to do it, thanks to you, so big thank you MATE
thank u... i have been tattooing for a year now and im self taught so this video was very helpful... i have yet to find one i could understand and that told me something other than how to set my needles.... i figured that out the first time i tattooed myself... this helped alot so thank u very much!!!! u rock!
well... ive watched the video and read quite a few comments . all i have to say to fatt is , thanx buddy , that was a good explaination and great close up to show exactly what you described .. i dont know about elsewhere but in australia , your flat out getting a tatoo artist of any kind . so i appreciate you taking the time to help ppl out ...after taking your advise my guns work great thanx ..
This is very helpful for artist starting out even for artist that have been inking for awhile. Theres alot of artist out there that go by ear then when you go to show your apprentice how tune your not sure how to explain it to them. I wish I had youtube when I first started out. Thanks for the Vid Big Country
I really like how you broke it down to where everybody can under stand-I been tattooing for 20 plus years and I've been trying to explain to my apprentices would do good the watch your vid-GOOD JOB*ND THANKS
nice video its good to see another home based artist shareing some tips right on
Just wanna say thanks so much for posting these videos. Bottom line, is tattooing is an art form and we should treat it like one. You don't see guitarists telling someone "No, you have to apprentice under me, clean my house, polish my guitars and let me treat you like shit for a year before I teach you how to play guitar.." or someone who paints telling someone "Well, you have to apprentice under me before I teach you to paint". So, why is tattooing any different? Art is art. Thanks, man!
I can say this video really does explain it the right way I tattoo hundreds of people and the tattoos heal perfect with this example
Thank you for the video. First one that actually showed me how a coil machine works.
Thanks for this great information, quick, simple and easy. 👍
Great video. I'm nearing the end of my apprenticeship and this is a great video for tuning reference. I was having a little trouble with my new Kuro Sumi shader but I got it tuned up real nice after watching this. Thanks!
just wanted to say thanks cause i got new machines and they were built for me but was having trouble setting them up just right and now they are going great! thanks again
Bro ur the first one tht has actually explained it very very precise and I learned a lot more from you than any other so thank you I appreciate it very much for you posting this video you helped me out a lot have to see another one of your vids take care man
Thank you for keeping it simple and to the point. I found your information more informing and accurate then most.
ur a savior to all us scratchers startin out... not smug at all... ima fan... thanx dude
Your timing on video was great your explanation was great and I understood the whole thing! Can't wait try it out! Thanks a mill!!! You ROCK!!! :D
At last. Some one that actually gives you information about tattooing. Thanks dude.
im a "scratcher" myself, never heard the term but i like it! great video, very informative in my opinion. thumbs up from me! looking forward to watching more of your videos!!!
Followthrough relates to the movement of the front spring off of the contact point,while pressure is being applied by the rear spring.Any chatter or skippage results in a reading of other than 0.Small minute adjustments can change this number.The angle at which your contact is set,and contact gap are the most common.Adjust the contact gap a little and retry.For liners as almost up and down angle is good for you contact,while for shading its better with about 7-8 o'clock look.
Thank you very much for all your input! it is seriously appreciated! Finally sum1 who has given me sum real advice. I will work on those things.
You are the freaking man! This video is the best and most truthful I've seen. I've been tattling at home for about 2 years now and still have problems tuning my machines. Thanks for the video brotha. Look forward to more from you.
Very helpful video man, im barely tattooing and having problems with my machines, this video really helped thanks I hope to watch more :)
i wanted to say thanks a bunch for being true to yourself and posting the video on tuning a machine...i spent about 2and a half years begging to apprentice-even if i had to scrub toilets for 4 years! i have an extensive portfolio and graduated with a batchelors of science from the art institute in oregon..personally i felt that being a female made most people think i was a joke..so, i decided to "apprentice" with several scratchers&i learned A LOT. your video will help many others! keep it up!
Hey thanks.. learned something new today! I had no idea that it needed the same spacing above and below the spring which makes a lot of sense... good tutorial! And I like your power supply.. very professional looking!!
I just started getting into tattooing. Im going to use this guide to set up my guns properly now. I have done a few and i think out of the box my liner is running great.
Thanks for the post! Just got my rigs going and every little bit of knowledge helps. I know it's up to each individual to get their own style, but it's nice to have a reference point to go from! Nice work!
@63Eco ive seen scratchers fix a lot of tattoos from pros and the finished product looks amazing. i can understand that there are definately a lot of them out there that are either really bad or are not sterile and they r the ones that should get the negativity and not the ones that actually do a good job at it. I dunno about most places but where I am from, its really hard to get an apprenticeship let alone find a decent shop that can even do good tattoos but there are good scratchers here
To each his own really.I like to setup the air gap at about 4-5mm and the contact gap at about3.5mm-5mm....but this also depends on springs,i like to use soft springs like 16 ga,i generally like a little wider of a spring on the back and thinner on the front for color machines.Also i like to use a heavier armautre bar.this lets the machine have more pushing power with running softer and slower.
it dosent matter how you start what matters is that you like what you do and you are dedicated to your work
Did good on the vid bro I like the way I have mine set which is about the same flex in the bar for a shader is always good tips for non pros if you keep the needle at the edge of the tip it won't go in far at all for outline makes straighter and non blown out lines and shading and coloring go a lil deeper
Great job describing the mechanics and steps involved... right on brotherman
@74ALW rs-round shader......rl-round liner.....m1-weaved mag....m2-stacked mag.....f-flats...........they come in different sizes.....ranging from 1 needle and ive seen up to 100......liners are for lining.....round shaders are for building lines/and small shading......weaved mags are good for color and greywash....stacked mags are good for tribal(but they tear skin easy)...hope this helps
Thanks man.You are a huge help.When is the next video ?
look at the gap between the top of the front coil and the bottom of the armature bar (the bar right above the coil) the gap should be smaller on the liner and larger on the shader, you are probably going to need to adjust and tune both a bit to find that "right" setting
thanks for the advice u gave me it allowed me to set both my machines up when others did not keep the videos coming
Thanks for the great advice buddy!keep doing what u do !dont let anyone bring u down! from artist to artist!
Hey thanks man this helped a great deal my machines both sound a lot better bout to try them out in a few
I appreciate the video and you are right, it is a pain in the ass to find a good video on youtube for tattooing help.
exelent video bro !! im learning tattooing and this is a huge help men,one last thing,what power supply do you recomend me to buy for my machines? (actually i got an Stealth tattoo machine)
@parsleysprigs not always does the sound say alot...you can have two liners and one sound differently.The materials they are made from can make a difference,also having an o-ring makes a big difference.The best way to feel out the voltage need is to start with it barely running and increase til it hums steadily,but at the same time its not loud as hell..right when it has that steady sound is usually the sweet spot,just make sure it has enough punch forthejob
I've been a professional tattoo artist for 21 years and have won over 25 trophies at conventions around the country. You go ahead and keep telling people the wrong info and I'll keep making money by fixing up the work of scratchers. Thanks. You're keeping me in business.
Thanks for all the info man! I actually found some great machines at a great price. butim still lokking for other machines that I dont have to fork out an arm and a leg. so if you find any please give me a heads up. Do you know where I can get some good coils for a good price?
many ways to tune...never saw a blink...but you can see the armature bar wave and get duty cycle pretty close,and some people like to say that its tuned right when the waving almost stops....but I like a more in depth approach to it
im new to the whole thing and i have been watching videos on here like crazy. and yours is the only one that helped thanks
thanks for sharing !
Question : does the angle of the contact screw change anything ?
i love the .38 special, really nice machine, thanks for the tips.
thats generally how they are set....depends on the tattoo to whether i use one or not though....I have a long stroke and shorter stroke as well....the shorther stoke fills a little faster and shades the color in better but the long is slow and not a roughh on the skin.....my long is running at like 80-105 and the short runs 90-110
Actually spring length is only designated for the machine you are using.A longer spring will have different tension than a shorter one,but if you can only use one spring then you can only use one.A machine should have springs made for it to be as good as it can function.But I have longer springs on some liner than my shaders and vice versa,tension is the key with those.
Hello, Thanks for all the info. I am impressed that you know as much as you do, for someone who is self taught. Could you speak about where exactly you learned the more detailed info, books, lectures etc. Also, how did you buy a machine from Eikon. When I tried to make a purchase they told me that I had to be a licensed tattoo shop. I would appreciate your info.
John
I really struggle to understand why there is such a negative attitude from tattooists toward people wanting to learn. It's an art and yeah I agree it should be shared and loved. Some people can't actually get apprenticeships. Because of that, does that mean they have to stop wanting to do the thing they love or have a real great interest in? I don't think so. I'm starting out and it's vids like this that help a lot. I know the rules, the do's and don't. People who want to learn aren't stupid
I will clarify as much as i can...the air gap is taken from the gap between the front coil core(the metal inside of it,pretty much the middle) and the armature bar....to truly get the best measurment you should remove the front spring for this...basically this gap should be at least the gap your trying to acheive on the contact gap...but it can be more...the more bend in it the harder it will hit but the more voltage it will need too...but there is a lot more to it
this helped alot my tattoo machine came in the mail today thank you
DUDE THANKS. I bought a tattoo gun that suppose to be a shader and liner and was trying to figure out how to set it for each. you gave me a better understanding. if you got some more info send it to me . PLEASE...lol
Thanx that was some real solid info like it when someone is strait no bs thanx keep them coming Tattoo 4 Life
Thank you sir, Finally I got that numbers 7.5 for lining and 4.6 for shading. Thank you sir .
And also one thing sir, sparking machine is normal? How am I suppose to fix that? Please sir thank u
Good video...going to try some of these tips out...thanks much for the info.
Hi. I really found your video very helpful, but there are some things I really wanted to know is how many grams of spring tension should a liner, a shader and a color packer have? And I think that plays a really important role in the machine. If you have a idea please help me.
Thanks
theres many ways I can use the same identical parts and make two different machines.Most of it is tension of the springs,having different guages help,but still need to be set right.Smaller uf capacitors will make a machine dump cycle shorter so it makes a faster machine.the gaps all around are made by tension and adjusted accordingly witht he amount of tension desired....theres a lot to it man been building and fixing machines for years now and still elearn a new trick here and there
I have a important question. When shading do you do like a check mark kind of shade or always keep the needle in the subdermis and just use different tones of grey? The first part of my question is like this, do you put the needle in for dark and pull out while making a sweeping motion Making it less dark the shallower the needle is?
Thats called whip shading. Yea u can use that method for that effect. That is a more traditional method and for use with solid black ink.
where do you buy your tattoo equiptment from i got a kit but its terrible the videos i seen of you tattooing the lines go in nice and clean straight away and shading looks like your doing it with ease could you recommend me on what liner, shader, power supply, ink i should get much appreciated!
Is the gap measurement taken at the centre of the front coil or the front or back edge of the coil.
Good Tut
I like your tutorial. It's much better than many of the tutorials done by the "pros." But here's a tip. I took me forever to figure out how to just turn the frigging thing on and make it buzz! You should probably start out showing how to plug everything in and how to connect those clips to the machine...
@Tattoogirl1nonly I dont really know waht they use as their setup,and depending on what area you tattoo it makes a difference as well.....but as for building lines its good to use a shader type machine,as it lets you go over lines more....basically you wantit to run like a colored pencil works....about a nickel gap...2-3mm
Dude definitely a good tutorial appreciate it.
hey thanks ,, how bout on a color packer? heavier a bar and more volts ? and would u use your packer to shade in the heavier shadows first ? thanks agin .
dude, thank you!!!! great starting tips. keep making videos. two questions, what custom machines do you run and where did you get that power supply???? thanks.
Those are some beautiful machines! Did you make them?
@lindamist The o-ring allows the machine to run more quietly as well as it releives some of the stress on the springs,they don't have much function,and you can run without them many artist do,but if tuned with then you need to keep it,and vice versa
thank you so much all props to you pal. whats your needle for packing black ?? plz
Nice vid and great set up bro! Keep on pushing, I like ya style!
I got every one of my tattoos in the pennitentiary, which is to say 11 years earned me a lot of ink. I learned how to shoot there, and now thats my bread n butter. Ive never had one infection, or Ive never had anyone get infected after I hit em. Its called cleanliness. If you dont take care of your fresh tats and keep the area clean and sanitized, its your fault if it gets infected. I can say though, theres no cleaner spot that Ive ever worked out of than my home.
depends on what machine your speaking of...I really am against doing that first off.I like the tension guage but best thing is to have a machine running the way you like it then take the readings,that way its your setting
cool video dude in a new artist and im having a problem with my color to stay in so how would you tune it for coloring?
Is the one you have setup for a shader at the end of the video also used for fill in tat's like triable ?
@fattasticvoyage thanks dude. great info and awesoem vids. doin my firstt ribal tomorrrow,, so thanks on the info below too . run my color packer ,, nice n steady and dont kill the skin ,, can it be done in one pass do you think or are tribals usually two sessions?
nice video...highly informative...thank you very much...and to hell with these people who have the need to keep tattoo an esoteric art only the priviledged can learn...screw that anyone should be able to learn something and make a living doing it right so keep on tattooing man.
thanks for the easy to understand info....there is room for even studio owners to learn as I fix many so called pro stuff ups and i had to teach myself to start with as in my day no 1 would apprentice a female. Quit hating and as pro's get the right info out there that way all risks are reduced there is enough skin on this planet for us all to share!
@fattasticvoyage oh aright man thanks for the info! And by build do you mean from scratch or just assemble parts? You should post a vid of your improved work
ohhh it also depends on your springs as well to if it will work right like that.....basics are short stoke fast for line and longer stroke slower for color and shade and short stroke slow for portrait type
It was good dude please keep showing I'm just learning wit freeworld machines thanks
also this is for a machine that is set up aldready as well....by thti mean it was put together right....the contacts are in the rightpositions...the coils are shimmed so they are right....if you got one of theose eby machines theres a good chance its not right and it will need some work befre proper fucnction if it will ever do it?
thanks and i really cant wind coils because of carpeltunnel....I have before it is hard and tedious..basically make sure they go in the same direction on both or it wont work
I'm a scratcher also but have been lucky enough to giving tips by professional tattooist, but fattasticvoyage gave you some clues to problems, also your nylon washers are not separating your binder screws from the frame...which messes with the current...you may have to rebuild your machine correctly which is good practice...good luck fellow scratcher
well techniacally no you can use the same springs on all mahines...but using softer fornt springs on a shader help alot and make a softer hitting machine that damages less...also the rear is a big difference soft and stiffer can work but thats up to you...i like a good 18 on the back and a 16 on the front its a good pair but some may have different opinoins
THANKS MAN FINALLY A VID THAT TOUGHT ME SOMETHING THANKS AGAIN FROM A FELLO SCRATCHER
could u make a video on the accual art of shading like techniques that work best for diffrent styles or what angles u have to hold the mags that would b awsome
ATLAST!!!!
somebody that knows what hes talking about!
firstly who gives a crap about sharpz machines oooh cheap frills its a brand! was an ITS frame anyway!....great vid...machines look&sound quality! i have watched this loads of times and am setting my machines up the same way today....very informative, many thanks, post more tat vids please!
is there any reason you place the o ring to the armature bar in mine itd under the front spring over the screw that hold the front spring down does this make a difference
@juarez122191 the reason for the o rign is to silent the machine,it also adds some retention into the tension of the springs as well....i put mine under the a-bar to really just keep it there as some of my machine have small bolts and cant be used on top....it might make a differenct but i wouldnt know
Did you drill that shader bar out? Thats killer looking arm bar
For a coloring machine you want thinner and or smaller gauged springs....as well as you gap can be further apart...you want it when running good and touching the coils corecctly to slow down and hit very soft when you touch it softly with your fingr on the nipple....may ways to do it than this but this is probably the easiest...but if you olor is just not staying in i do not know maybe new inks is what you need or use oinment more....I hope this helps
Can you do a video describing the purpose of the o ring in between the bar and the washer
@edgarsanchez1904 Speed just means the needles are going to go up and down faster(cycle).You can tattoo with as fast as a cycle as you want,thats totally up to you.When I do portraits and want a smoother gradiation I tend to use a faster running shader.But speed is going to determined more by your tensions in the springs,gaps,and capacitor than anything.IT is definitely not determined by more voltage.I like 90-110 CPS for most shading...for smoothes like 120-125
@fattasticvoyage i think the problem was i didnt have enough tension because i bent the amature back a little and it moves more now,, but thanks, keep up the good work! x
@ricky20000 you want it too touch your front coil of ur coil but the back coil's core should have about a business card gap between it...the reason two coils are used is for effeicency and that why a machine is usually made from metal,or they use what is called a yoke,this lets both coils work as one.The front coil is what u make ur adjustments on as it is your ON OFF for the the current....but u could have too much tensin,not enough power...it could be alot of things...
so ive been trying to figure this out, is the only difference between a liner and a shader the distance between the armature bar, the contact spring and the coils?
@HungryGuyStories there are rca connectors you can buy thats just one plug,but as far as the connecting themachine,its usually straight forward...one plug for the pedal one for the clipcord....the clipcord ends go into the twp slots....usually no positiv or negative,but thats only dependent upon ur capacitor....