Hey man. I am engineer working in the battery industry. My expertise is mainly in lead acid batteries, but there is a lot of carry over to lipos. I can assure you that the charging regimen is really important. The more demanding the discharge is, the more important is a "wellness" charging. How this looks like, is quite specific to the battery itself (electrode geometry, thickness...) and I have honestly no idea how this looks like for lipos. But too high currents are bad and too low currents is bad. But now to the interesting stuff: Why would you break in your battery properly? When you mess up the first few charge/discharge cycle, the battery stays below its maximum potential since the electrochemical environment is heavily predetetmined by the cycles which happen at the beginning of its life. Just with children. When you mess up early, the problems stay with you for life (sorry for the harsh comparison😂) By doing this you can achieve higher capacity, higher peak power and more cycles. The difference is not huge by any means, we are talking by improvements in the one digit percentage range compared to an average user who treats his lipos at least half way decently. For the average basher this is way overkill and not worth the investment imho, but for a competitive racer who is chasing every marginal improvement, this should be noticable. TLDR: You get more peak juice, you get more juice and you dont need an extra lipo garbage can after a racing weekend😂😂
@@RazorRCI must admit I personally dont break in my lipos (yet), since I am not a racer, just a basher. I mainly use softcase lipos and I must admit, I did not have a single lipo survive more than 2 years. Sooner or later, my lipos fly out of the car and they are so heavily scratched, that they are not save to use anymore. This is due to my stupidity and my choice of small scale cars. A few months ago, I bought a 6s Kraton EXB V2 and in this car, the lipos are heavily strapped down. I think this time, the lipos should survive far longer than the car😂 I also paid about 150 bucks for a big 6s lipo for the first time, so a new set of lipos very year would definitely hurt my wallets. And my feelings😂 Additionally, I personally dont need much power. To this day, I use the small pinion on the Kraton and I also limit the throttle on my transmitter to 80% since I dont want to die because of an heart attack. But back to topic: It is common knowledge for rc guys, to not set the lvc too low or to store your batteries fully charged. But using special break in charges or even "refresher" cycles to extend its life span are extremely rare. This can be done manually with most charging equipment today already, but this level of knowledge is way to specific to become common practice. Maybe charger companies will adress this issue by adding special break in/ refreshing modes in the future.
I use charger X12 along with a separate charging board. It is one of the most reliable chargers. I have had a clone of the SkyRC charger which was inaccurate. Thanks for the new info!
IMO.. what i have learned in the very 5 short years of racing is that.. overcharging is what kills a battery.. the fact that you charge in HV high voltage mode.. putting more mah into the battery than it can carry. If you take a 2 L plastic coke bottle and force 2.2 L of coke in and close the cap.. when you open it it will squeeze out due to the pressure of the stretched bottle.. only until the amount of overfill is out then it will flow the same amount of pressure it would have normally.. same with a battery.. thats why for a lap or 3 you have more punch and the car feels quicker but after that it is normal again. My batteries would last 4 to 5 months and it would puff.. now that i charge only 8.4v instead of 8.6 or 8.7 my battery is almost 3 years old and NO puffing. Yes the car feels slower but a fast car doesn't make you fast. This might be something to try and then only charge to 8.4v see if a hot battery will cause puffing over time
I honestly didn’t believe the hype. For stock racing there is a lot of voodoo, and not a lot of the voodoo actually does anything. The first cycle on it I was a believer, I’ve never been one to say “too much punch” but holy crap! I’m a believer and has helped my spec racing testing go smoother and eliminate another equation in the spec racing world, if you don’t have this thing I would highly recommend it! - Matty G
Wow. I've never seen that before. Learn something new everyday. While interesting i don't think this is something the would do much for average bashing. Even though i don't want it I'm glad it's out there. I'm all for evolving tech making the hobby better for everyone.
Stock racing has become a deep pocket class and im getting tired of it. Would rather struggle in mod class and have a blast than overspend to just stay competitive in stock class. Ive tried it all.. and you will mess up your battery in a very short time. Mod class.. you can use whatever crap battery you have lying in your bag and still be just as fast. Deep pocket guys buy 4 of 5 batteries and different motors.. test them all and see which ones perform best and keep them for race days in stock class.. it is what it is
Hey man.
I am engineer working in the battery industry. My expertise is mainly in lead acid batteries, but there is a lot of carry over to lipos.
I can assure you that the charging regimen is really important. The more demanding the discharge is, the more important is a "wellness" charging. How this looks like, is quite specific to the battery itself (electrode geometry, thickness...) and I have honestly no idea how this looks like for lipos.
But too high currents are bad and too low currents is bad.
But now to the interesting stuff: Why would you break in your battery properly?
When you mess up the first few charge/discharge cycle, the battery stays below its maximum potential since the electrochemical environment is heavily predetetmined by the cycles which happen at the beginning of its life. Just with children. When you mess up early, the problems stay with you for life (sorry for the harsh comparison😂)
By doing this you can achieve higher capacity, higher peak power and more cycles. The difference is not huge by any means, we are talking by improvements in the one digit percentage range compared to an average user who treats his lipos at least half way decently.
For the average basher this is way overkill and not worth the investment imho, but for a competitive racer who is chasing every marginal improvement, this should be noticable.
TLDR: You get more peak juice, you get more juice and you dont need an extra lipo garbage can after a racing weekend😂😂
Great info! Thanks for the explanation, with the amount of money we spend on batteries, this is really important!
@@RazorRCI agree . Thanks for sharing your knowledge
@@RazorRCI must admit I personally dont break in my lipos (yet), since I am not a racer, just a basher. I mainly use softcase lipos and I must admit, I did not have a single lipo survive more than 2 years.
Sooner or later, my lipos fly out of the car and they are so heavily scratched, that they are not save to use anymore.
This is due to my stupidity and my choice of small scale cars.
A few months ago, I bought a 6s Kraton EXB V2 and in this car, the lipos are heavily strapped down. I think this time, the lipos should survive far longer than the car😂
I also paid about 150 bucks for a big 6s lipo for the first time, so a new set of lipos very year would definitely hurt my wallets. And my feelings😂
Additionally, I personally dont need much power. To this day, I use the small pinion on the Kraton and I also limit the throttle on my transmitter to 80% since I dont want to die because of an heart attack.
But back to topic:
It is common knowledge for rc guys, to not set the lvc too low or to store your batteries fully charged.
But using special break in charges or even "refresher" cycles to extend its life span are extremely rare.
This can be done manually with most charging equipment today already, but this level of knowledge is way to specific to become common practice.
Maybe charger companies will adress this issue by adding special break in/ refreshing modes in the future.
I've been using the first Gen version of this for a few years. Best charge & discharge system hands down, thoroughly recommended.
Thank you so much
Never understood the I charger hype until I had one. Then I realized, best damned charger ever.
It really is. Maybe not something everyone needs, but it's definitely a couple levels above everyone else.
I use charger X12 along with a separate charging board. It is one of the most reliable chargers. I have had a clone of the SkyRC charger which was inaccurate.
Thanks for the new info!
IMO.. what i have learned in the very 5 short years of racing is that.. overcharging is what kills a battery.. the fact that you charge in HV high voltage mode.. putting more mah into the battery than it can carry. If you take a 2 L plastic coke bottle and force 2.2 L of coke in and close the cap.. when you open it it will squeeze out due to the pressure of the stretched bottle.. only until the amount of overfill is out then it will flow the same amount of pressure it would have normally.. same with a battery.. thats why for a lap or 3 you have more punch and the car feels quicker but after that it is normal again. My batteries would last 4 to 5 months and it would puff.. now that i charge only 8.4v instead of 8.6 or 8.7 my battery is almost 3 years old and NO puffing. Yes the car feels slower but a fast car doesn't make you fast. This might be something to try and then only charge to 8.4v see if a hot battery will cause puffing over time
Yea, this thing looks impressive. 70A, crazy. Thanks for the share. 👍👍
70A is pretty nuts, I've only done 40A so far.
on stick battery no problem for on-road, drag race, ...
I honestly didn’t believe the hype. For stock racing there is a lot of voodoo, and not a lot of the voodoo actually does anything. The first cycle on it I was a believer, I’ve never been one to say “too much punch” but holy crap! I’m a believer and has helped my spec racing testing go smoother and eliminate another equation in the spec racing world, if you don’t have this thing I would highly recommend it! - Matty G
Thanks for checking out the video Matty!
Thank you Matty
Wow. I've never seen that before. Learn something new everyday. While interesting i don't think this is something the would do much for average bashing. Even though i don't want it I'm glad it's out there. I'm all for evolving tech making the hobby better for everyone.
@razorrc I see you’re using an I charger. Does this work with the Gens Ace charger? Imars Dual and imars d300 specifically. Thanks
No, you need an iCharger.
Sweet
It would be even better, if you could "regenarate" individual cells!
Your charger balance each cells
@@rcdischarger yes i know, but i want a charger to cycle only one or two cells that they are in not good condition.
@@BASSstarlet the icharger is the best charger for that, you can take a duo version with the Regenerative Discharger
@@rcdischarger They are damn expensive!
Stock racing has become a deep pocket class and im getting tired of it. Would rather struggle in mod class and have a blast than overspend to just stay competitive in stock class. Ive tried it all.. and you will mess up your battery in a very short time. Mod class.. you can use whatever crap battery you have lying in your bag and still be just as fast. Deep pocket guys buy 4 of 5 batteries and different motors.. test them all and see which ones perform best and keep them for race days in stock class.. it is what it is