This requires a drill, a bit, a trim saw, and a common inexpensive jig to complete. No measuring. No mortise too big for the tenon. No hours of acquired skill and wasted lumber to have to justify. Drilling two (or three) holes and filling them with dowels is nearly as basic as woodworking can get. And it's still very strong, practical, and efficient.
@@MakerBeach When one is new to this type of work, or we want to do something for the house, there is a lot of tools that we do not know, good video and good work, is there a link to the tool you use to make the holes? I leave you a 👍
@@mynameisbond711 The Kreg K4 and K5 are not the right jigs for this kind of project as Ken Cheney suggests. You want the R3 or better yet the 300 series for a project like this given that they are smaller, more versatile, and easier to handle. K4 and K5 are overkill.
I have done a lot of wood window reinforcement with dowels. I never did this. I don't think it's necessary. Even with pretty tight dowels the air escapes.
I always have my dowels go through end to end with this system. If just building a shop table, or a tool table (like I did with my router tables) a black walnut dowel going through lighter colored woods (I used swamp ash because it was lightweight, cheap, and i had a ton of it.) and it looks awesome when all said and done. Also, if you are doing a 3 way joint (like a leg with a front and side apron) try to make sure your dowels don't bump each other in the leg. I've used this technique on every table joint or permanant j8g joint in my shop for about 5 years and just figured thousands of ppl already knew about it. After all, my grandfather taught me with his steel "angle jig) when I was a youngin... and I'm glad PH jigs came out, because his jig weighed 20lbs if not more lol. FYI , use your small PH jig to make a bigger one that can handle ½", ¾" all the way up to 1-½" dowels. Just take the block of wood that you wan5 to be your jig, and run the ⅜" bit through it. Then buy (or make) a long tapered drill bit in whatever size you need. Make sure the front 2inch tip of drill bit is ⅜" diameter, also it can guide the rest of your bit body along the path.
Pocket dowels. Great idea. Thanks for adding the comment about gluing the apron to the leg. The only thing I’d do slightly differently is use a sanding block after trimming off the dowel ends. Can’t wait to try this!
This is one of those ideas that is so obvious no one thinks of it. I've had a Kreg jig for years and never thought of this. Bloody well brilliant! Cheers!
A structural improvement to this great idea. If doing three dowels, use two dowels space apart toward the edges on the inside of the apron. Then use one dowel on the other side of the apron in the middle. Thus the dowels will cross into the leg and mechanically lock the apron from pulling out. Of course the down side, is the dowel could be seen from the outside if the furniture is not painted. Another option is one dowel in the top edge of the apron and another dowel in the bottom edge of the apron. Some variations on this elegant concept...
Good idea to do cross dowels. To build on that thought, I like the idea of making the dowels a statement. Using something like oak dowels with walnut could make an interesting statement. Hell, do them all in the most conspicuous places possible. This could make some beautiful, interesting joints. As strong as these joints would be, it might even come to speak of quality.
@@vociferonheraldofthewinter2284 I love that idea. I love accents and inlays so using a walnut dowel on an oak piece (or visa versa) really trips my trigger, lol.
@@vociferonheraldofthewinter2284 I like the idea, but I think it would just look, to a woodworker, like you plugged a pocket hole joint. Normal folks wouldn’t know that though!! 😅
Well, that is magnificent. I was going to use screws but this is so much easier and you just cut the dowel and you're done. No filling the holes. Thanks..
Genius! I've been using pocket holes for years and never once thought about using it for dowel joinery. I don't know if I'd use it in my higher end client builds, but for personal projects and quicker stuff, this is great. Way stronger than the pocket screws. I'm glad YT served up this video! New sub. Thanks! - Joe
Very efficient. I like it. Just starting a 3’ x 8’ sewing centre for my wife. 2” x 6” poplar legs and aprons and a solid core mahogany commercial door top. All salvaged and surplus material in excellent condition. Very heavy. This method of joint construction is very strong and cost effective. Good thinking. Thanks!
I like it! Especially your thought process, of not wanting to learn a traditional mortise and tenon on this project, but also taking a dowel joint that some may find challenging to get aligned and making it more accessible to the beginner using the pocket jig. Another idea I saw on the Craftswright channel that might supplement this one, was to use pocket screws as clamps where a dowel joint would be awkward to clamp, such as in this case if someone didn't have a way to clamp a doweled leg on a table. Just drill as you did for the dowels, but leave room for a couple of pocket holes as well. You get the strength of the dowels with their large glue surface, plus the draw strength of the pocket screws, which can also be plugged with dowels to blend the appearance.
Thanks Bill! I'm publishing a follow up video to this one in a few days where I discuss ideas just like this. I've gotten a ton of great comments and suggestions like yours. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Can't see the forest for the trees moment . Never would have thought to use dowels instead of the Kreg screws. This is why I love youtube so much. Thanks
I think it's a great idea. Even if no glue was used I'm thinking dowels would be more than adequate regarding strength. And since many people don't fill the pocket holes with a plug, the dowels would take care of that as well making the finished look superior to pocket holes without plugs. I really like the idea of using dowels instead of screws and am going to give this a go. Thank you for sharing.
Yeah! In the old days in Alaska they used a drill auger, a non electrical drill. They used logs and dowels to make beds, chairs, tables, etc. A very rustic look. Dowels were also used like large cotter pins. Great video and idea. Some old wooden boats used dowels to join curved rib beams. Thanx!
I was watching a furniture flipping video and the person was pointing out something on a drawer. Said that if you see this definitely get the furniture. The drawers were joined with dowels instead of dove tails. He said that this is a good sign that the furniture is really an antique and was made right.
Very clever use of the Kreig jig. I will definitely be using this method when the appropriate need arises. I do think for this application the two dowels were sufficient. Great idea.
That's such a great idea and an easy way to improve it even more is to drill the 2 holes for the dowels into each piece at 90° to the face of the wood so the ends will be hidden after joining. You can get really inexpensive jigs to ensure those 4 holes are always perfect, there's no clamping or cutting and the pre-cut dowels are designed specifically for gluing. ✌️
I just had this idea and figured I better google it. I wasn't disappointed. What a great application. Protip - the guides on that Kreg jig are designed to be flipped over - so the dangly bits point up. Specifically to be able to do pocket holes in this situation. No need for a spacer block. I'll definitely be trying this myself. Probably two dowels and a screw down the middle!
Wow what a great tip on the guides! I didn't know that! Thanks so much for sharing that. Also great idea on using a screw in the middle. Check out my follow up video where I discuss something very similar based on some other comments.
@@MakerBeach Will do, thanks for the suggestion. By the way, I did play with this a little today. Joining thinner material, 3/4" plywood to 3/4" maple. I didn't have any dowel stock, but I did have some standard 3/8" x 1-1/2" long fluted dowels and I'm pretty happy with the fit and function for a utility shop drawer. For 3/4" stock, the Kreg pocket hole drill was just long enough for a through hole.
I was about to pull the trigger on a $200 dowel jig kit. It is nice but I am not rich. Nor am I going to use it to make money. With that item in my cart, at the last second, I googled "use Kreg as dowel jig" and your video popped up. Thank goodness. Thank YOU! And guess what. I already have a Kreg.
Wow that is great Leland! Thank you so much for sharing that with me. I'm glad this was helpful to you. Let me know how it goes if you try this technique!
I'm going to use this tip, a lot! I really like my pocket hole jigs, but not the look so much. I make rustic furniture and this will make life much easier. Thank you for sharing.
I've been a residential carpenter my entire life and retired now. I'm building bird houses, muzzle loaders, andchunting a lot. But, I've been interested in dial rod joinery and you have sold me to getting this jig. Dial joints are very, very strong, especially if you use hickory dial rods. Just a tip, use hickory in high demand areas
Thanks, James! Yeah dowels are a solid choice. I got to tour the Thayer Coggin furniture factory in High Point, NC. They make very expensive, hand made, high end furniture and cut no corners on quality. They proudly use simple dowel joinery. The Egyptians used it too and they were pretty good at building stuff. Thanks for the hickory tip! I'm sure I could learn quite a few things from an experienced craftsman like you.
Great technique! My grand-grandmother used to have, she dead since the late 2000s, a very big Kitchen table and I allways asked myself why there were some oval markings in a slighty different color. Now I know the answer. The table had been build in the 20s of the last century, maybe a old technique which got a bit dusted in the sawdust of time.
What an excellent idea. I love this. You are like many amateur/weekend woodworkers out here. A lot of us haven't done mortise and tenon and we're nervous to attempt it on projects that we're building. Thanks for sharing this method with us. Stay safe.
You're very welcome. Yeah I think joinery can be intimidated to beginners (or anyone, really) and cause them to not try certain projects that require joinery. That was the case with me which is why I brainstormed for months on how to do joinery for a table that didn't require joinery experience or expensive tools.
That was a brilliant idea, loved the idea of using plugs instead of screws, going with three was a good idea too, so simple and easy to do, thank you 👍
This is incredible, have never seen this done before and I will definitely be doing it from now on. Hate those ugly screws, and the plugs never seem to work. Thank you for this video!!!
I built a Kamado Joe BBQ table (ceramic BBQ weighs ~250lbs) with cedar using this kreg-jig-pocket-hole-dowel-joint method - and worked great! I might have had to sand the dowels a lot more than I expected but that wasn't a show stopper; I was just worried about dowels breaking or cracks in my frame if the fit was too snug. I have almost no building experience, so if I can do it, anyone can :-) Thanks Maker SAW!
I don't like to use pocket hole method because I've read a lot how much weak it is, but with this brilliant idea, I change my mind!, it's strong, faster and easier than using mortise and tenon, or just dowels. thank you.
Pocket hole joins are weaker, but in most cases more than strong enough. They're strong enough to make a shelf supported by a join at only one end which you can stand on without it breaking. Once you have all the pieces of something put together the forces are often countering each other which makes the joins hard to break in spite of each pocket hole join not being the strongest available.
Super idea. Doesn't require specialized skill and makes wider use of pocket hole jig if one already has it. Stronger joint than a pocket hole. Will try it in my next project. 👍
Thank you Sean. Now I know to do a dowel joint using the Kreg Jig. How good is that. I am an amateur woodworker in my 70s and enjoying this new found hobby with the simplest tool capable of creating a variety of things.
I think it’s a pretty great idea and I’m glad that you put it up I might even give it a try myself. Seems like a decent alternative to getting a domino which is absurdly expensive
I have plans for a table.I have the woodd too. Worried about the joints of apron to leg.... but you saved me some dream time. I will try this out. I looks like a great way to get over my joinery issue. Thanks. Saved you for later too.
First time viewer, and new subscriber. This is a really great idea in a few ways. 1-the joint is going to be stronger than it is with pocket hole screws. 2-you're not left with an ugly hole that you would have had to buy (or make) pocket hole plugs for. 3-using a dowel is less expensive than pocket hole screws. I noticed you sanding your dowel by hand. Next time you use this technique, put your dowel into the chuck of your drill before cutting it to length. Then, gently wrap your sandpaper around the dowel, pull the trigger on your drill and run the sandpaper up and down the length of the dowel. Then cut your dowel to size, and it's ready for use.
Thanks for watching, subscribing and the tip! Yes, I've sanded dowels before with a drill and it definitely works. It also gets really hot really fast! Thanks for the compliments! Glad you liked the video.
I saw the title, had a negative thought about misuse of the Kreg jig and didn't plan to watch. However, it's Monday and time to do something different. I watched (it's fantastic BTW) and learned bunches. Thank you for sharing!!
Thanks for the kind words Susan! I'm so glad it was helpful for you. Add another comment if you use this technique or if you have any questions. I'd love to hear about it!
Interesting idea and not one I've seen before. I like dowel joints and I like pocket hole joints too. I have a couple of jigs for both methods and use them frequently. And I like to mix these within the same project sometimes. I will for sure try this idea sometime to see how I get on. Nice tip, thank you.
The HD jig is made for 2x4 construction and has a half inch drill. The now have the XL version which also uses a half inch drill. I just use the pocket screws but I can see where this would give you a solid all wood connection.
I think a lot of people are commenting negatively on your recommendation of this method in a particular application instead of understanding that it will have merits in certain applications at some point that is not necessarily obvious now. You have shared another method of making a strong joint and I appreciate it.
Subscribed to a fellow woodworker and you asked for feedback, so here goes. I use Kreg PHs where practical, I love mortise & tenons, but PHs are great for many builds and I've used them in conjunction with fancier joints. I could see this as practical for a new woodworker and the only thing I would have done (unless I missed it), was added your TypeII glue to the initial joint, clamp, drilled & doweled. I thought I saw movement in your joint but it's a youtube vid and hard to tell, the extra area of glue-up simply adds more more strength.
@@vectors2final36 I looked and it seems he did tenons and pocket holes, not dowel joints and pocket holes. Maybe I can't find it, but send me the link if you can find it. thanks
Great idea and very well explained ! I just purchased the very SAME KREG JIG ! Thank you very much sir for sharing your idea. Cheers from Canada, snow country.
@@MakerBeach It is a wooden bench for the kids. pasteboard.co/JdNDBEO.png I want to join legs on glue and dowels instead of screws to make sure that it will hold safe and solid.
Am considering using this method for asthetics. Maybe drill all the way through, use a different color dowel [darker color?] Of course gluing joint and dowels. Trimming off both ends for projects that I stain. I think will add a cool look. Am going to try this out. My thoughts: I would think with solid wood through the entire joint and of course plenty of glue, that this would actually be a very strong joint after drying compared to a metal screw. Just a thought. So yeah blow it out all the way through, then run your dowel through and through.
Great idea! There is a drill guide available for this type of joint. However, the one I’ve seen uses an X pattern and makes a very strong joint (strong even without glue at all). I might even add another peg from the other surface into the leg. That would make a total of three or four pegs. And of course glue the two joined surfaces. I like to use pocket holes with screws or just regular dowels for most all joints because it has been shown that free tendons and biscuits, etc. do not actually increase the joint strength much more than the glue does by self. Your method combines dowels with the pocket whole concept, which should be very strong and easy and more economical to do
Hey man !!!! Just like I used to say back in the day !!!! Out of sight man !!!!!! Really awesome !!! So basic, easy to do, will definitely use it !!!! Thanks !!!!!
Dowels should be stronger with all the glue surface area they provide. Screws can get loose if the joint gets torqued enough. In some cases it does not matter but a table leg can take a lot of stress. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Your comment at 0:29, I would say this is the strongest ever table leg joint there is. If you are going thru the work of making a table from real wood, you're probably hoping to have it for a while. If you are moving the table lots, i.e. extensions etc... you'll want a sturdy joint, and that being the one you called ugly. Go ahead and recess it into the sides and you won't notice a thing from on top. I did that to my beech table glass top and you can hardly see anything EVEN thru the glass!!! And its ROCK SOLID!
Thanks for your input! I wasn't sure how strong one of those brackets would be on a large table. Glad to hear that you have used them successfully. And great idea to recess it so it's hidden! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thank you so much!!! I made a 2metersX1meter cypress wood table trusting you regarding the connections and although it is very heavy it is truly solid too. For sure relative adjustments made, yet the main idea was based on your great video!! Greetings and thankfulness from Chania- Crete- Greece
That is a great idea for longer pocket holes. You would definitely have to make sure you can get the table out of the room without disassembling it, or leave in in the room forever. :)
Ha ha... I wish I had a table so big it couldn't leave the room! The one I made is a standard height table so turning it on its side allows it to fit through almost any door.
I did a process like this in some projects, a kind of, but I use the jig normally, with screws, cos they act as a clamps during the glue up. When the glue is dry, take off the screws, and the hole they live act as a guide for the large drill, that you can use without the jig.
Remaking Vintage, when you do that how do you control depth in order to not go through the other side? Do you just “feel it out”, or do you adjust your stop collar, or something else? Thanks
I liked your idea so I tried it myself. It worked well with the following caveats. The 3/8 inch drill bit I bought (Irwin brand) did not fit in the Kreg jig. While the shaft of the bit measured 3/8 inches, the cutting end of the bit was slightly larger than 3/8 and I wrecked one of the channels on the Kreg jig trying to force it through. The other tip I would offer is DO NOT try to do a dry fit by pounding in the dowels (you didn't I notice). Once the dowels are in they are difficult to remove for final glue up. Also, to sand the dowels down a bit, insert the dowel into a drill, then grab the dowel with a piece of sandpaper in your hand while running the drill.
For a small table, yes. For a large table with really large, chunky legs I questions whether pocket hole screws would stay secure and tight. I don't think screws would completely fail but I do think they could loosen up over time.
This is a pretty bomb idea. Even if someone else had it too. It's still your idea. Thanks. This made it so much easier to glue up and mate the sides of two boards perfectly
Neat idea, I’d never considered this method. However, considering the amount of time this method takes (allowing for the glue to dry) why not just use that time to make a proper mortise and tenon joint? With a little practice a M+T joint would actually be faster. I’m certainly not dissing this method as it obviously will work great, but I’m just not really seeing the advantage. Anyway, great camera work and your audio is perfect. Very well done. 😉👍
Thanks, Marty! I've never thought of mortise and tenons as quick. I also have never tried it! Part of the reason for this method is to facilitate making a strong joint with beginner level skills and inexpensive tools. I would love to do mortise and tenon but I don't have a mortiser and my chisels are junk. 😉 Thanks for watching and all the nice compliments! 👊
*Using this method, you could make productive use of the time it takes for the glue to dry* to do any number of things in the shop, the house, the yard, etc. In the time it takes to do 8 mortise & tenon joints the traditional way for a table, you'd be practically done attaching the table legs & aprons using this dowel method _AND_ you'd already be working on the table top!
Thank you for this Video! It will help me for my upcoming Project and will delete my struggles with the Jig for Pocket Holes. Regards from Germany...By the way...Your „voicing“ (don‘t know the right word for it) is great. I have had no problem to understand you...
Great concept and technique. I have one question: Would the dowels on the perpendicular board, attached to the leg at 90 degrees, interfere with the other two/three dowels? I am just wondering about that.
Good question. I guess it's possible if the legs are narrow but you can avoid that pretty easily when you do your layout. I used this technique on legs that were 5 inches square at the top so there was plenty of space. Thanks for watching!
That's what I was thinking. Just replacing screws with a dowel? I mean it's a alright idea. And you get more glue surface area I guess. Or just make a Dowling jig. Not a horrible idea though
I love this idea. I have a project for outside and was concerned with the screws open to the weather. and am using 4x4s. think i am going to get some dowels today for this project. lol just a frame for an Avery.
That was a very genius idea thats what you call thinking outside the box thank you very much for sharing especially good for beginners like me Thank You .
FWIW I have been making my own floating tenons for years and make the tenons and mortises with a plunge router. The main thing is you will make 2 mortises. This gives you some choices on which way to assemble the joints. I do NOT own any Festool stuff.
This requires a drill, a bit, a trim saw, and a common inexpensive jig to complete. No measuring. No mortise too big for the tenon. No hours of acquired skill and wasted lumber to have to justify. Drilling two (or three) holes and filling them with dowels is nearly as basic as woodworking can get. And it's still very strong, practical, and efficient.
Thanks! That pretty much sums up my thoughts on this exactly! 👊 Thanks for watching!
@@MakerBeach When one is new to this type of work, or we want to do something for the house, there is a lot of tools that we do not know, good video and good work, is there a link to the tool you use to make the holes? I leave you a 👍
@@mynameisbond711
It's a kreg pocket hole jig. Get them at lowes or home depot
@@bigrig0625 The k4 gig is on sale pretty cheap right now since the k5 came out.
@@mynameisbond711 The Kreg K4 and K5 are not the right jigs for this kind of project as Ken Cheney suggests. You want the R3 or better yet the 300 series for a project like this given that they are smaller, more versatile, and easier to handle. K4 and K5 are overkill.
Pro tip….run a tenon saw along the length of the dowel to make a small groove. This allows the air to escape and release any pressure in the joint.
Love it!
I have done a lot of wood window reinforcement with dowels. I never did this. I don't think it's necessary. Even with pretty tight dowels the air escapes.
Nice!!
@@davefoc Or take your plane and make a couple of passed on two sides of your dowel
I always have my dowels go through end to end with this system. If just building a shop table, or a tool table (like I did with my router tables) a black walnut dowel going through lighter colored woods (I used swamp ash because it was lightweight, cheap, and i had a ton of it.) and it looks awesome when all said and done.
Also, if you are doing a 3 way joint (like a leg with a front and side apron) try to make sure your dowels don't bump each other in the leg.
I've used this technique on every table joint or permanant j8g joint in my shop for about 5 years and just figured thousands of ppl already knew about it. After all, my grandfather taught me with his steel "angle jig) when I was a youngin... and I'm glad PH jigs came out, because his jig weighed 20lbs if not more lol.
FYI , use your small PH jig to make a bigger one that can handle ½", ¾" all the way up to 1-½" dowels. Just take the block of wood that you wan5 to be your jig, and run the ⅜" bit through it. Then buy (or make) a long tapered drill bit in whatever size you need. Make sure the front 2inch tip of drill bit is ⅜" diameter, also it can guide the rest of your bit body along the path.
You are a woodworking god, and thank you for not wasting my time with unnecessary intros and talk.
LOL thanks!
It’s been a year now and the chairs I made in this manner are still holding tight. Thanks for the shout-out !!
You're welcome! Glad to hear your chairs are still solid!
The cleverest thing was showing the direction of the drill bit next to the piece.
Thanks! Glad it was helpful.
Pocket dowels. Great idea. Thanks for adding the comment about gluing the apron to the leg. The only thing I’d do slightly differently is use a sanding block after trimming off the dowel ends. Can’t wait to try this!
This is one of those ideas that is so obvious no one thinks of it. I've had a Kreg jig for years and never thought of this. Bloody well brilliant! Cheers!
Thanks Ranni!
Really great idea! Thanks for getting straight to the point and not wasting 5 minutes at the beginning like so many other videos do.
Thanks! 👊
A structural improvement to this great idea. If doing three dowels, use two dowels space apart toward the edges on the inside of the apron. Then use one dowel on the other side of the apron in the middle. Thus the dowels will cross into the leg and mechanically lock the apron from pulling out. Of course the down side, is the dowel could be seen from the outside if the furniture is not painted. Another option is one dowel in the top edge of the apron and another dowel in the bottom edge of the apron. Some variations on this elegant concept...
Thanks! Those are great ideas. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Good idea to do cross dowels.
To build on that thought, I like the idea of making the dowels a statement. Using something like oak dowels with walnut could make an interesting statement. Hell, do them all in the most conspicuous places possible. This could make some beautiful, interesting joints. As strong as these joints would be, it might even come to speak of quality.
@@vociferonheraldofthewinter2284 I love that idea. I love accents and inlays so using a walnut dowel on an oak piece (or visa versa) really trips my trigger, lol.
@@vociferonheraldofthewinter2284 I like the idea, but I think it would just look, to a woodworker, like you plugged a pocket hole joint. Normal folks wouldn’t know that though!! 😅
Great idea. I just got a pocket hole jig for Christmas and now I know another way I can use if when I need more strength.
That's great! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Well, that is magnificent. I was going to use screws but this is so much easier and you just cut the dowel and you're done. No filling the holes. Thanks..
Thanks, Andy! I'm so glad this was helpful for you. I hope your next project goes great! Thanks for watching!
This is also less expensive than buying pocket hole screws.
Genius! I've been using pocket holes for years and never once thought about using it for dowel joinery. I don't know if I'd use it in my higher end client builds, but for personal projects and quicker stuff, this is great. Way stronger than the pocket screws. I'm glad YT served up this video! New sub. Thanks! - Joe
Thanks, Joe! And thanks for the sub!
Useful!
Very efficient. I like it. Just starting a 3’ x 8’ sewing centre for my wife. 2” x 6” poplar legs and aprons and a solid core mahogany commercial door top. All salvaged and surplus material in excellent condition. Very heavy. This method of joint construction is very strong and cost effective. Good thinking. Thanks!
I like it! Especially your thought process, of not wanting to learn a traditional mortise and tenon on this project, but also taking a dowel joint that some may find challenging to get aligned and making it more accessible to the beginner using the pocket jig. Another idea I saw on the Craftswright channel that might supplement this one, was to use pocket screws as clamps where a dowel joint would be awkward to clamp, such as in this case if someone didn't have a way to clamp a doweled leg on a table. Just drill as you did for the dowels, but leave room for a couple of pocket holes as well. You get the strength of the dowels with their large glue surface, plus the draw strength of the pocket screws, which can also be plugged with dowels to blend the appearance.
Thanks Bill! I'm publishing a follow up video to this one in a few days where I discuss ideas just like this. I've gotten a ton of great comments and suggestions like yours. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Can't see the forest for the trees moment . Never would have thought to use dowels instead of the Kreg screws. This is why I love youtube so much. Thanks
Thanks, Larry! That's why I started a channel. I had to give back for all the amazing things I've learned. Thanks for watching!
@@MakerBeach Your welcome. I call it "that light bulb moment."
I think it's a great idea. Even if no glue was used I'm thinking dowels would be more than adequate regarding strength. And since many people don't fill the pocket holes with a plug, the dowels would take care of that as well making the finished look superior to pocket holes without plugs. I really like the idea of using dowels instead of screws and am going to give this a go. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
The presentation is to use dowels instead of Mortice and Tenon joints, not instead of screws!
Yeah! In the old days in Alaska they used a drill auger, a non electrical drill. They used logs and dowels to make beds, chairs, tables, etc. A very rustic look. Dowels were also used like large cotter pins. Great video and idea. Some old wooden boats used dowels to join curved rib beams. Thanx!
Long live the dowel! LOL
I was watching a furniture flipping video and the person was pointing out something on a drawer. Said that if you see this definitely get the furniture. The drawers were joined with dowels instead of dove tails. He said that this is a good sign that the furniture is really an antique and was made right.
Very clever use of the Kreig jig. I will definitely be using this method when the appropriate need arises. I do think for this application the two dowels were sufficient. Great idea.
Awesome! Glad you like the idea and thanks for watching!
Just bought my Kreg kit. I like this for anything that is going to take some serious load. That kit is now a "two-for". Cheers.
That's great to hear. Thanks for watching!
it's a great idea and I just watched a gentleman on another video test all the kinds of wood joints,dowels like yours was the strongest.
I love simple yet effective ideas. Love this one. I will certainly use in my builds.
Thanks!
That's such a great idea and an easy way to improve it even more is to drill the 2 holes for the dowels into each piece at 90° to the face of the wood so the ends will be hidden after joining. You can get really inexpensive jigs to ensure those 4 holes are always perfect, there's no clamping or cutting and the pre-cut dowels are designed specifically for gluing. ✌️
I watched a few videos on pocket holes and this one has been the best. How you determined the depth makes complete sense to me. Thank you.
Thanks, Ricky! I'm glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching!
@@MakerBeach What's funny is that the video wasn't even what I expected initially. I am definitely going to try this method tomorrow.
That's great! Let me know how it goes!
@@MakerBeach Hi Sean, I tried it and it absolutely worked. I used pocket hole screws instead of a dowel and that was the only difference. Thank you!
I just had this idea and figured I better google it. I wasn't disappointed. What a great application.
Protip - the guides on that Kreg jig are designed to be flipped over - so the dangly bits point up. Specifically to be able to do pocket holes in this situation. No need for a spacer block.
I'll definitely be trying this myself. Probably two dowels and a screw down the middle!
Wow what a great tip on the guides! I didn't know that! Thanks so much for sharing that. Also great idea on using a screw in the middle. Check out my follow up video where I discuss something very similar based on some other comments.
@@MakerBeach Will do, thanks for the suggestion.
By the way, I did play with this a little today. Joining thinner material, 3/4" plywood to 3/4" maple. I didn't have any dowel stock, but I did have some standard 3/8" x 1-1/2" long fluted dowels and I'm pretty happy with the fit and function for a utility shop drawer. For 3/4" stock, the Kreg pocket hole drill was just long enough for a through hole.
@@bradley3549 that's great! I'd love to see a pic if you are on Instagram or another platform.
Great idea- if you scribe out a small line along dowls the glue and air has a place to leak out and you get a 100% dowel depth every time
Yeah that's why I sanded them laterally instead of just spinning them on some sand paper. But I like your idea too!
Brilliant.
@@MakerBeach as long as air can get ,you can plane a small section off circumference, scribe ,sandpaper etc
Very good tip
Clever…. OCD…. But clever….. from an OCD Scottish guy. :)
Simple, effective, strong, and even much cheaper! What an idea! Thanks for sharing. Now I kniw what to do with the Kreg jigs in my closet.
Thank you!
I was about to pull the trigger on a $200 dowel jig kit. It is nice but I am not rich. Nor am I going to use it to make money. With that item in my cart, at the last second, I googled "use Kreg as dowel jig" and your video popped up. Thank goodness. Thank YOU! And guess what. I already have a Kreg.
Wow that is great Leland! Thank you so much for sharing that with me. I'm glad this was helpful to you. Let me know how it goes if you try this technique!
Stumbled upon this video just as I'm having lunch and about to do the exact same thing with the very same tool. Thank you!
That is so great to hear. Glad it was helpful and I hope your project comes out well!
This is the best tip/technique/idea I've seen in a long time, I will definitely use this
Thanks Fernando! I'm so glad it was helpful for you. Thanks for watching and commenting!
I'm going to use this tip, a lot! I really like my pocket hole jigs, but not the look so much. I make rustic furniture and this will make life much easier. Thank you for sharing.
Glad it was helpful and thanks for watching!
I've been a residential carpenter my entire life and retired now. I'm building bird houses, muzzle loaders, andchunting a lot.
But, I've been interested in dial rod joinery and you have sold me to getting this jig. Dial joints are very, very strong, especially if you use hickory dial rods. Just a tip, use hickory in high demand areas
Thanks, James! Yeah dowels are a solid choice. I got to tour the Thayer Coggin furniture factory in High Point, NC. They make very expensive, hand made, high end furniture and cut no corners on quality. They proudly use simple dowel joinery. The Egyptians used it too and they were pretty good at building stuff. Thanks for the hickory tip! I'm sure I could learn quite a few things from an experienced craftsman like you.
@@MakerBeach I'm from and located in Sampson county NC
Great technique! My grand-grandmother used to have, she dead since the late 2000s, a very big Kitchen table and I allways asked myself why there were some oval markings in a slighty different color. Now I know the answer. The table had been build in the 20s of the last century, maybe a old technique which got a bit dusted in the sawdust of time.
Thank you so much for sharing this! That is a very interesting story. Thanks for watching and commenting!
What an excellent idea. I love this. You are like many amateur/weekend woodworkers out here. A lot of us haven't done mortise and tenon and we're nervous to attempt it on projects that we're building. Thanks for sharing this method with us. Stay safe.
You're very welcome. Yeah I think joinery can be intimidated to beginners (or anyone, really) and cause them to not try certain projects that require joinery. That was the case with me which is why I brainstormed for months on how to do joinery for a table that didn't require joinery experience or expensive tools.
Really smart and creative! With this technique, Kreg pocket hole jig becomes much powerful!
Thanks! 👊
That was a brilliant idea, loved the idea of using plugs instead of screws, going with three was a good idea too, so simple and easy to do, thank you 👍
Glad it was helpful and thanks for watching and commenting!
This is incredible, have never seen this done before and I will definitely be doing it from now on. Hate those ugly screws, and the plugs never seem to work. Thank you for this video!!!
I built a Kamado Joe BBQ table (ceramic BBQ weighs ~250lbs) with cedar using this kreg-jig-pocket-hole-dowel-joint method - and worked great!
I might have had to sand the dowels a lot more than I expected but that wasn't a show stopper; I was just worried about dowels breaking or cracks in my frame if the fit was too snug.
I have almost no building experience, so if I can do it, anyone can :-)
Thanks Maker SAW!
That's great to hear! Have you posted any pics of it on Instagram or anything? I'd love to see it!
I don't like to use pocket hole method because I've read a lot how much weak it is, but with this brilliant idea, I change my mind!, it's strong, faster and easier than using mortise and tenon, or just dowels.
thank you.
I'm so glad this was helpful! Thank you for watching and commenting!
Pocket hole joins are weaker, but in most cases more than strong enough. They're strong enough to make a shelf supported by a join at only one end which you can stand on without it breaking. Once you have all the pieces of something put together the forces are often countering each other which makes the joins hard to break in spite of each pocket hole join not being the strongest available.
You can also do 2 (near edges ) dowls on one side and 1 on the other (in centre ) meaning the dowls are staggered and you get a very tight bond
Great tip!
Super idea. Doesn't require specialized skill and makes wider use of pocket hole jig if one already has it. Stronger joint than a pocket hole. Will try it in my next project. 👍
Thanks so much! I'm so glad it was helpful. Some people think it's a terrible idea. Check out the follow up video.
Thank you Sean. Now I know to do a dowel joint using the Kreg Jig. How good is that. I am an amateur woodworker in my 70s and enjoying this new found hobby with the simplest tool capable of creating a variety of things.
That's great to hear, Mary! I'm glad the video was helpful and thanks for watching!
I thought about that when plugging pocket holes with dowels. Nice to see it implemented, definitely gained some tips, like the spacer for offsetting.
Yeah it just kinda hit me one day when I was trying to figure out how to make a table. Thanks for watching!
I think it’s a pretty great idea and I’m glad that you put it up I might even give it a try myself. Seems like a decent alternative to getting a domino which is absurdly expensive
Thanks! Glad you liked it. Thanks for watching and commenting!
I have plans for a table.I have the woodd too. Worried about the joints of apron to leg.... but you saved me some dream time. I will try this out. I looks like a great way to get over my joinery issue. Thanks. Saved you for later too.
Thanks! Glad it was helpful. My table with this method is still holding strong!
First time viewer, and new subscriber. This is a really great idea in a few ways. 1-the joint is going to be stronger than it is with pocket hole screws. 2-you're not left with an ugly hole that you would have had to buy (or make) pocket hole plugs for. 3-using a dowel is less expensive than pocket hole screws.
I noticed you sanding your dowel by hand. Next time you use this technique, put your dowel into the chuck of your drill before cutting it to length. Then, gently wrap your sandpaper around the dowel, pull the trigger on your drill and run the sandpaper up and down the length of the dowel. Then cut your dowel to size, and it's ready for use.
Thanks for watching, subscribing and the tip! Yes, I've sanded dowels before with a drill and it definitely works. It also gets really hot really fast! Thanks for the compliments! Glad you liked the video.
I saw the title, had a negative thought about misuse of the Kreg jig and didn't plan to watch. However, it's Monday and time to do something different. I watched (it's fantastic BTW) and learned bunches. Thank you for sharing!!
Thanks, Danise! I'm glad it was helpful and thanks for watching!
Finally! A simple way to connect corner boards w jig! This has always been a challenging task I always screw up... THANK YOU a million times!!
Thanks for the kind words Susan! I'm so glad it was helpful for you. Add another comment if you use this technique or if you have any questions. I'd love to hear about it!
lightbulb moment when you showed the cross section. thank you!
I like how you follow up and explain your technique. Very thorough
Thanks, Tom!
Best tip find I have found so far on youtube. Excellent!
Thanks for the encouragement!
A pretty no nonsense video, with some great information. I really enjoyed this, thanks!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks! 👊
Interesting idea and not one I've seen before. I like dowel joints and I like pocket hole joints too. I have a couple of jigs for both methods and use them frequently. And I like to mix these within the same project sometimes. I will for sure try this idea sometime to see how I get on. Nice tip, thank you.
Thanks! Let me know how it goes if you try it!
Clever use of the jug. To make the dowels go in easier I would use Hide glue as it is "slipper" than yellow wood glue.
Great tip and thanks for watching!
It's a very smart and good way to assemble large and strong pieces of wood together, thanks for the information.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Clever idea, thanks for sharing. Combine it with the HD jig and you'd have an extremely strong joint that both self-aligns and self-clamps
Great idea! 👊
What is the HD jig?
The HD jig is made for 2x4 construction and has a half inch drill. The now have the XL version which also uses a half inch drill. I just use the pocket screws but I can see where this would give you a solid all wood connection.
Excellent idea. Appears to be a superior alternative to screws. Thank you.
Thanks!
I think a lot of people are commenting negatively on your recommendation of this method in a particular application instead of understanding that it will have merits in certain applications at some point that is not necessarily obvious now. You have shared another method of making a strong joint and I appreciate it.
Thanks, Marv! I think you are right. I'd really like to do a follow up video that clears up some confusion. Thanks for the kind words! 👊
Subscribed to a fellow woodworker and you asked for feedback, so here goes. I use Kreg PHs where practical, I love mortise & tenons, but PHs are great for many builds and I've used them in conjunction with fancier joints. I could see this as practical for a new woodworker and the only thing I would have done (unless I missed it), was added your TypeII glue to the initial joint, clamp, drilled & doweled. I thought I saw movement in your joint but it's a youtube vid and hard to tell, the extra area of glue-up simply adds more more strength.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Would really love to see a side by side comparison of strength test between the dowel joint and pocket holes.
Me too!
Mattias Wandel did that on his youtube channel
@@vectors2final36 I looked and it seems he did tenons and pocket holes, not dowel joints and pocket holes. Maybe I can't find it, but send me the link if you can find it. thanks
Great idea and very well explained ! I just purchased the very SAME KREG JIG ! Thank you very much sir for sharing your idea. Cheers from Canada, snow country.
Awesome! Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Just what I was looking for! Thanks a lot for such a simple and complete demonstration.
No problem Ivan, and thanks for watching! What are you building?
@@MakerBeach It is a wooden bench for the kids. pasteboard.co/JdNDBEO.png I want to join legs on glue and dowels instead of screws to make sure that it will hold safe and solid.
Looks great!
@@MakerBeach Thanks :) It is just a design for now. The next step is to make it real.
Dude, your awesome, you and that other guy you was talking about. I'm happy for people like y'all, helping people like me figure shit out. Thank you!!
Thanks Mark! Glad this was helpful and thanks for watching!
Am considering using this method for asthetics. Maybe drill all the way through, use a different color dowel [darker color?] Of course gluing joint and dowels. Trimming off both ends for projects that I stain. I think will add a cool look. Am going to try this out. My thoughts: I would think with solid wood through the entire joint and of course plenty of glue, that this would actually be a very strong joint after drying compared to a metal screw. Just a thought. So yeah blow it out all the way through, then run your dowel through and through.
Yeah I've pondered the same thing. Let me know how it turns out if you try it. I'd love to see it.
That’s the best reason to use dowel joinery is for the aesthetics
Great use of a tool for another application...two in one. Good explanation and demonstration.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for the tip. Now I want to go build something using this trick!
Thanks Joe! I'm so glad you found it useful.
Great idea! There is a drill guide available for this type of joint. However, the one I’ve seen uses an X pattern and makes a very strong joint (strong even without glue at all). I might even add another peg from the other surface into the leg. That would make a total of three or four pegs. And of course glue the two joined surfaces.
I like to use pocket holes with screws or just regular dowels for most all joints because it has been shown that free tendons and biscuits, etc. do not actually increase the joint strength much more than the glue does by self.
Your method combines dowels with the pocket whole concept, which should be very strong and easy and more economical to do
Thank you! I agree about adding an extra dowel. Check out my follow up video for more on this. Thanks for watching and commenting!
You've done a good job, so you don't even see the hole getting a clean, professional job.
Thanks!
Hey man !!!! Just like I used to say back in the day !!!! Out of sight man !!!!!! Really awesome !!! So basic, easy to do, will definitely use it !!!! Thanks !!!!!
This is brilliant!! Thank you for this amazing idea, keep the good work up!
Glad you like it!
It is very good idea the alignment is allways foolproof Congratulations
Thanks!
Great video.!!!
best aspect is none of the usual RUclips faff.
LOL thanks, Frank!
Great idea. I have done mortise and tenon joints. Very strong but very labour intensive and time consuming. This looks simple and we'll concealed.
Thanks, Kerry! That was the whole idea.
Interesting idea. Thanks, I may give it a try. I would ask however if there is an advantage over using screws?
Dowels should be stronger with all the glue surface area they provide. Screws can get loose if the joint gets torqued enough. In some cases it does not matter but a table leg can take a lot of stress. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@MakerBeach Good points. Thanks for your quick reply.
Your comment at 0:29, I would say this is the strongest ever table leg joint there is. If you are going thru the work of making a table from real wood, you're probably hoping to have it for a while. If you are moving the table lots, i.e. extensions etc... you'll want a sturdy joint, and that being the one you called ugly. Go ahead and recess it into the sides and you won't notice a thing from on top. I did that to my beech table glass top and you can hardly see anything EVEN thru the glass!!! And its ROCK SOLID!
Thanks for your input! I wasn't sure how strong one of those brackets would be on a large table. Glad to hear that you have used them successfully. And great idea to recess it so it's hidden!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Nice technique I’ll be doing this now. I dig the Star Wars T-shirt too!
Thanks! You can never have too many makers wearing Star Wars t-shirts on RUclips! Lol!
@@MakerBeach I'm actually wearing the same shirt while watching the video. :-)
I think it's awesome! I wish somebody would do the obligatory stress test and compare it to using the screws
Uma forma de unir peças simples e eficiente, muito bom e ilustrativo seu vídeo.
Obrigada!
El tarugo no toco la segunda madera , mmmm no good boy
Thank you so much!!! I made a 2metersX1meter cypress wood table trusting you regarding the connections and although it is very heavy it is truly solid too. For sure relative adjustments made, yet the main idea was based on your great video!! Greetings and thankfulness from Chania- Crete- Greece
That sounds great! I'm so glad this video was helpful!
That is a great idea for longer pocket holes. You would definitely have to make sure you can get the table out of the room without disassembling it, or leave in in the room forever. :)
Ha ha... I wish I had a table so big it couldn't leave the room! The one I made is a standard height table so turning it on its side allows it to fit through almost any door.
Nice job!
Great video .... Guess who subscribed !!! Good stuff
Thank you for the sub! 👊
Thanks for sharing this video. What a brilliant idea. I like the way it all looks invisible, no screws.! I will use this to experiment. 👍
Glad to hear it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
I did a process like this in some projects, a kind of, but I use the jig normally, with screws, cos they act as a clamps during the glue up. When the glue is dry, take off the screws, and the hole they live act as a guide for the large drill, that you can use without the jig.
Yeah I've heard of that technique. Simple and useful!
Remaking Vintage, when you do that how do you control depth in order to not go through the other side? Do you just “feel it out”, or do you adjust your stop collar, or something else? Thanks
I liked your idea so I tried it myself. It worked well with the following caveats. The 3/8 inch drill bit I bought (Irwin brand) did not fit in the Kreg jig. While the shaft of the bit measured 3/8 inches, the cutting end of the bit was slightly larger than 3/8 and I wrecked one of the channels on the Kreg jig trying to force it through. The other tip I would offer is DO NOT try to do a dry fit by pounding in the dowels (you didn't I notice). Once the dowels are in they are difficult to remove for final glue up. Also, to sand the dowels down a bit, insert the dowel into a drill, then grab the dowel with a piece of sandpaper in your hand while running the drill.
Thanks for the info and I'm so glad you tried this technique!
Why would you not just use pocket holes with screws? would that not be just as strong as the dowels?
For a small table, yes. For a large table with really large, chunky legs I questions whether pocket hole screws would stay secure and tight. I don't think screws would completely fail but I do think they could loosen up over time.
No way would that be as strong. Diesel truck is 10times stronger IMO
This is a pretty bomb idea. Even if someone else had it too. It's still your idea. Thanks. This made it so much easier to glue up and mate the sides of two boards perfectly
Thanks!👊
Neat idea, I’d never considered this method. However, considering the amount of time this method takes (allowing for the glue to dry) why not just use that time to make a proper mortise and tenon joint? With a little practice a M+T joint would actually be faster. I’m certainly not dissing this method as it obviously will work great, but I’m just not really seeing the advantage. Anyway, great camera work and your audio is perfect. Very well done. 😉👍
Thanks, Marty! I've never thought of mortise and tenons as quick. I also have never tried it! Part of the reason for this method is to facilitate making a strong joint with beginner level skills and inexpensive tools. I would love to do mortise and tenon but I don't have a mortiser and my chisels are junk. 😉 Thanks for watching and all the nice compliments! 👊
*Using this method, you could make productive use of the time it takes for the glue to dry* to do any number of things in the shop, the house, the yard, etc.
In the time it takes to do 8 mortise & tenon joints the traditional way for a table, you'd be practically done attaching the table legs & aprons using this dowel method _AND_ you'd already be working on the table top!
The length of time for the glue to dry is not a factor as you would also be using glue in the M+T joint.
@@bruceharvey8810 that's true! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thank you for this Video! It will help me for my upcoming Project and will delete my struggles with the Jig for Pocket Holes. Regards from Germany...By the way...Your „voicing“ (don‘t know the right word for it) is great. I have had no problem to understand you...
Thanks, Marc!
Great concept and technique. I have one question: Would the dowels on the perpendicular board, attached to the leg at 90 degrees, interfere with the other two/three dowels? I am just wondering about that.
Good question. I guess it's possible if the legs are narrow but you can avoid that pretty easily when you do your layout. I used this technique on legs that were 5 inches square at the top so there was plenty of space. Thanks for watching!
If one offsets the location of the dowels in each apron that should not be a issue.
Wow...I think it's an excellent technique for joining larger pieces of timber. I'll remember this. thanks.
Thanks, George! I appreciate the feedback. Thanks for watching!
What’s the purpose of this instead of using regular pocket screws?
This is for doing dowel joinery in a location where a normal dowel jig would not fit. Also, dowels and glue will be stronger than screws.
That's what I was thinking. Just replacing screws with a dowel? I mean it's a alright idea. And you get more glue surface area I guess. Or just make a Dowling jig. Not a horrible idea though
This is genius! Thank you thank you thank you for sharing. I’m using this joint for a kitchen island I’m making. 🎉
Thanks Valerie! I'm so glad it was helpful! Please let me know how the island comes out!
@@MakerBeach I will do! 🙂
I don't get it, dowel jig is just as easy and no visible fasteners on your peice. But if you like it, it's your wood so enjoy.
I didn't have a dowel jig so this is how I improvised.
this is really smart, I like it
Thanks!
I love this idea. I have a project for outside and was concerned with the screws open to the weather. and am using 4x4s. think i am going to get some dowels today for this project. lol just a frame for an Avery.
Hope it goes well!
@@MakerBeach thanks
That was a very genius idea thats what you call thinking outside the box thank you very much for sharing especially good for beginners like me Thank You .
Glad you liked it! Thanks! 👊
This I great for someone as clueless and who has limited woodworking tools as me!
I'm glad it was helpful and thanks for watching!
FWIW I have been making my own floating tenons for years and make the tenons and mortises with a plunge router. The main thing is you will make 2 mortises. This gives you some choices on which way to assemble the joints. I do NOT own any Festool stuff.
Nice alternative use to the pocket jig. I will have to give it a whirl!!! Thx for sharing
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Great idea, think I’ll use it in the near future.