Really Impressive and practical, This is the first time I see people diy speaker carbinet out of Fiber Glass instead of wood. It open up the possibility of unlimted shape design of carbinet.
wow! that is some nice builds! I remember my first speaker build that looked like 2 shoeboxes painted with a dishbrush and car speakers... My latest fiberglass is a more = sky is the limit... The bad part is I hate the smell of it :)
Thanks. It does have damping properties. It is used for damping road noice and rust protection under cars. It dries very slowly and never completely but it is cheap compared to bitumen pads. It consists of bitumen and fibers. It can get very messy. I can not remember the name but It is not called body seal Hope this helps.
You should'nt look at the size difference, it is the displacement of air that should be double . So if you have your 12" driver that can move 1 cm and a passive radiator same size and movement, you will need 2 of them. However if you had a passive radiator same size but with a movement of 2 cm, you will only need 1. Thanks for the comment :-)
I really like this project although I have some remarks. I really find it funny that people like you for example mark a distinction between CAC drivers and other aluminium drivers of this series. I mean come on. CAC is an aluminium driver. It's not a ceramic driver. CAC drivers measure and sound identically to NBAC drivers. If you call CAC version ceramic, then you have to name NBAC and every other anodised aluminium driver as well. The fact that SB dares to call that driver ceramic is just nonsense marketing. The layer of oxide on CAC is just slightly thicker anodisation and whatever it actually is, it doesn't make it sound any better. The color is nice - that's all the real benefit as you get with CAC. Even the CDC tweeter performs identical to ADC version. That's because they are the same driver. Both ADC and CDC are very smooth for an aluminium driver, but they still have some of the edge that's characteristic of alu tweeters. It's especially evident if you compare them to STC variant, which even without the distortion numbers sounds very relaxing by comparison. Unfortunately as much as I like SB drivers, their marketing has always been bullcrap. Starting from TS parameters (they measure at large signal to make them look better!) and ending at unethical claims of "adding more than shows in the measurements".
@@mustbuildsomething Thanks for your reply. I wonder what is it about it's midrange that you don't like. This driver has a very sharp 'knee'. I mean that the distortion is only strong if it's intermodulated, which in practice means that the driver will only distort in the midrange when it's tuned low. Most proper projects use 15-18L bass reflex enclosures for the aluminium SB17. The measurements also show that intermodulated components fall significantly around 60 Hz, so you don't want your speaker to play much, below this treshold. There are designs that use this driver only as a midrange down to 200Hz and they're usually praised for clarity. For overall clean sound and deep bass, the MW16 and SB17NRX2 are the better option from SBA.
Ahhh. Dude, you are right. ScanSpeak also very much likes to measure 4 Ohm drivers at 2.83 volts. Bloody cheaters (not like the Author, but someway different -) )
I haven't seen such cheating person yet. You're a champion of a cheating. I mean that fabric "3d". An absence of wooden resonances sounds interesting though.
Nice build with quantity components, loved seeing the construction methods used here.
Thanks im glad you like it, and thanks for commenting 😃
@@mustbuildsomethingLike your attention to detail. We think alike. These turned out great.
Really Impressive and practical, This is the first time I see people diy speaker carbinet out of Fiber Glass instead of wood. It open up the possibility of unlimted shape design of carbinet.
Thanks i am happy you found it useful or maybe be inspiration to build something 😉
Stunning work man - I'm totally impressed!😮
Thanks😀
Cool! I've been building speakers for about 30 years now. I think you've given me the confidence to try a fiberglass baffle for the first time. :)
Thanks that makes me happy, reasin smells a lot when drying just a little advise if it's you first time 🫠
Love it man. Exactly what I'm gonna do....mix the car audio into home theater. The look of them enclosures are unbeatable. Good job.
Ты меня впечатлил! Хорошая работа.
wow! that is some nice builds! I remember my first speaker build that looked like 2 shoeboxes painted with a dishbrush and car speakers... My latest fiberglass is a more = sky is the limit... The bad part is I hate the smell of it :)
I agree the smell is something... can I see your fiberglass build somewhere? Thanks for the comment.
@@mustbuildsomething nah way to sloppy to present to the world :) But some day I will have something to show the world :)
@7:50 I love AC glue. Much better than that stupid cheap CA glue.
Not many knows about the magical "AC" glue it activates when you say thunder 3 times... pro tip ;)
Great job, man!👍💗
Thanks and Thanks for watching 😀
Amaising job
Thanks for the comment 😃
nice work
Thanks appreciate it😀
Great design and work! I see you you had built a 3 way unit as well! Do you have a video of it?
sorry I made it a few years before I started filming anything. Thamks for watching.😃
Any plans to make a great party boombox
Not right now but it is a great suggestion ;-) Thanks for the comment
Nice work , any plans on buying a paint mask ?
Thanks. I should take better care of myself
Very nice work. What is the name of the black coating you used before the bitumen? Is it called body seal?…If it has damping properties I will use it
Thanks. It does have damping properties. It is used for damping road noice and rust protection under cars. It dries very slowly and never completely but it is cheap compared to bitumen pads. It consists of bitumen and fibers. It can get very messy. I can not remember the name but It is not called body seal Hope this helps.
Can you give an approximate construction cost along with your labor time?
9 hours labor time + some thinking
SB16PFCR 2x22 44 EUR
SB17cac35 2x100 200 EUR
SB26cdc 2x50 100 EUR
MDF 35 EUR
Paints 68 EUR
Crossover parts, Screws
Glue, damping, Speaker terminals
wire, 367 EUR
Acrylic sheet 6 EUR
Fiberglass and resin 30 EUR
850 eur = Right now 902 US dollers 😅
hope my wife doesn`t read this...
@@mustbuildsomething :))))
Passive radiator should be 30% bigger than the driver. Look at klipsch. 12" driver and 15" passive radiator
You should'nt look at the size difference, it is the displacement of air that should be double . So if you have your 12" driver that can move 1 cm and a passive radiator same size and movement, you will need 2 of them. However if you had a passive radiator same size but with a movement of 2 cm, you will only need 1. Thanks for the comment :-)
What do the copper coils do?
Cool
Forgive me but I don't see or hear it pumping? must play NCS bass music
Sorry next time... thanks for the comment😃
I really like this project although I have some remarks. I really find it funny that people like you for example mark a distinction between CAC drivers and other aluminium drivers of this series. I mean come on. CAC is an aluminium driver. It's not a ceramic driver. CAC drivers measure and sound identically to NBAC drivers. If you call CAC version ceramic, then you have to name NBAC and every other anodised aluminium driver as well. The fact that SB dares to call that driver ceramic is just nonsense marketing. The layer of oxide on CAC is just slightly thicker anodisation and whatever it actually is, it doesn't make it sound any better. The color is nice - that's all the real benefit as you get with CAC.
Even the CDC tweeter performs identical to ADC version. That's because they are the same driver. Both ADC and CDC are very smooth for an aluminium driver, but they still have some of the edge that's characteristic of alu tweeters. It's especially evident if you compare them to STC variant, which even without the distortion numbers sounds very relaxing by comparison.
Unfortunately as much as I like SB drivers, their marketing has always been bullcrap. Starting from TS parameters (they measure at large signal to make them look better!) and ending at unethical claims of "adding more than shows in the measurements".
Thank for the long comment 😀 I do agree with you. I chose dem for the color 😅. There is a lot of snake oil and religion in audio in general i think😉
@@mustbuildsomething Thanks for your reply. I wonder what is it about it's midrange that you don't like. This driver has a very sharp 'knee'. I mean that the distortion is only strong if it's intermodulated, which in practice means that the driver will only distort in the midrange when it's tuned low. Most proper projects use 15-18L bass reflex enclosures for the aluminium SB17. The measurements also show that intermodulated components fall significantly around 60 Hz, so you don't want your speaker to play much, below this treshold. There are designs that use this driver only as a midrange down to 200Hz and they're usually praised for clarity. For overall clean sound and deep bass, the MW16 and SB17NRX2 are the better option from SBA.
Ahhh. Dude, you are right. ScanSpeak also very much likes to measure 4 Ohm drivers at 2.83 volts. Bloody cheaters (not like the Author, but someway different -) )
I haven't seen such cheating person yet. You're a champion of a cheating. I mean that fabric "3d".
An absence of wooden resonances sounds interesting though.