Great video! So, I bought the Iniu. Just got it. You're right, its a chunky little thing. That said, after it's charged, it's going straight in my camera backpack. I was going to buy a couple more batteries for my Z6III / Z8. Only had 5 total batteries and knew I would need a couple more, at least. So, this saved me quite a bit of money and should be a more effective solution. Thanks for the great advice.
Great ideas Hudson. The one spare camera battery is good idea just in case you have a charging issue with one which can happen. I have a 24K Anker I love but a bit heavy. Been looking at the Nitecore carbon fiber one that seems to be substantially lighter. I did buy the Minix and agree it's amazing. Thanks.
I bought a battery pack (38,600mA) on Amazon that has 2 different cables stored in the edges of it, and one entire side of the unit is a solar panel, so when out in daylight it will charge the battery. It will charge 3 devices at a time. It has a compass built in and a flashlight/emergency light. It is so handy that I bought a second one for my wife.
I have been onboard with this approach for charging for a while. For the non-PD cameras, I have found cheap, light 3rd party USB C powered chargers that are working well for me.
A word of warning ... a Canon R5 needs more than this, and although I know my battery pack is large enough to use to both power and charge it, it is nigh-on impossible to find the actual values required (I did, once, and cannot find it again!). Also, thete is talk that the R5's behaviour changes when you have the battery grip (with 2 batteries) attached. Get the biggest possible PD output you can! Edit/update: I hooked my 5R (with battery grip) to my Anker C1000x (1kwH battery !) and it told me the following outputs. For charging, my understanding is that PD negotiates 18w (eg 2A @ 9v) before it will start, but once agreed (R5 turned off), the R5 drew only 6W to charge the battery!! Also, the R5 negotiates 27w to run on battery (without charging), but was only drawing up to 9w to run ... including basic video. I haven't tested availability of High-speed + shooting yet (nor 8k video), it'll either not be available or should ask for more power ... So, tldr, for normal operation you need PD 9v x 2A to charge battery, and 9v x 3A to run the R5, but it seems to not actually use anywhere near that on either case!
Tether Tools (TT) have a powerbank (US$180) with 25,600mAh that offers 2x USB-C PowerDelivery (PD) and should be able to do up to 150W. I will elaborate about details that may help you get into control on the pathfinding of a solution :( . You will see that I am neutral about recommending it. This TT device also has a USB-A output that offers QuickCharge (QC) version 3 and is pass-through capable. "PowerDelivery" and QuickCharge" are different standards/protocols that facilitate higher Voltages and Ampères than basic standard USB. Plus this TT claims to be TSA compliant. You see here that a powerbank and capacity is one thing, but connecting it properly is another. Up to 150W is a scholastic claim. We have to look at each of the USB connector capabilities: USB-C #1 - Input/Output 5 VDC * 3A = 15W 9 VDC * 3A = 27W 12 VDC * 3A = 36W 15 VDC * 3A = 45W 20 VDC * 5A = 100W USB-C #2 - Input/Output 5 VDC * 3A = 15W 9 VDC * 3A = 27W 12 VDC * 2.25A = 27W USB-A - Output 5 VDC * 4.5A = 22.5W 4.5 VDC * 5A = 22.5W 9 VDC * 2A = 18W 12 VDC * 1.5A = 18W So the device maxes out at 100W + 27W + 18W = 145W with all ports combined - the 5W is probably lost in transformation and other losses. What setting the camera and powerbank will choose depends on the port you use and the cable and the protocol version - if they don't understand each other, or the wrong combination is in place, then the chain will fall down to default old-school USB: 5V and 3A or less A. This TT-brand powerbank comes with a 1' cable and here, "cable" is yet another pitfall. Search YT for one of the myth-buster guys and their video that explains why an Apple branded USB-C Thunderbolt cable costs more than $100. The "cable" has a chip on each side in the connector. It has a network of data lines and power lines inside. The chip on one end multiplexes the "sends" into parallel lines and the other side puts them into series again. And the "receive" lines get a similar treatment in the other direction. With error protection. And the chips negotiate either the PD, or the QC protocol, or maybe are bi-lingual, to see about capabilities at either side plus its own. Of course replacing the Apple logo by another brand halves the price. But buying cheap probably means that it's not good enough. We need laws that force printing capabilities on the plugs, e.g. TB4 on one side of the plug and 100W on the other side - at both ends. The point is that you now must even consider the capabilities of your cables. "USB-C" is just about the connector and says nothing about bandwidth (data speed) and nothing about Voltages and Ampères. A nondescript USB-C to USB-C cable may only have USB 2 capabilities of about 5V*1..3A = 5..15W. If you have TB devices, maybe replace all cables by TB4 certified ones that have USB-4 too and are fully backward compatible. The 1 foot long cables may have only wires inside, no chips. Note there are USB-4 cables that have no TB4 certification (needs to be done by Intel). Between my Nikon Z 8 and both power and data (tethering) solutions this is an ongoing concern. It has two ports and Nikon are not precise enough in what is precisely supported. I need this down to the nitty-gritty. I elaborate a bit still, below, about more scholastic aspects that consumers may be fooled by. "Everybody does it" and "nobody tries to get to the bottom of it all" so everybody keeps doing it. Note that W (Watt) are like horsepower and mAh like, say, torque. They tell nothing about how far your fuel tank gets you. We need kilo.Watt.hours, milli.Watt.hours, or Watt.seconds for that. There's about 34 kWh in a gallon so your compact's 10 US gallon fuel tank can hold 340 kWh. And we also need your engine's efficiency and behavioural data. The 340 kWh in a tank sound like a lot compared to your eV's battery, but the efficiency of the ICE car may max out at 25% (at best) and if you have to drive it through mountains without regenerative braking that recharges the reserve ... As this TT powerbank gets rated at 25,600mAh, we have no hard energy reserve. We don't know what Voltage this is expressed at and generally this is the sum of the cells in the bank. There might be, say, 21700 cells in there that each could give 3.6V*3,050mAh=10,980mWh energy reserve. Two cells in series then give 7.2V* 3,050mAh=21,960mWh. The case dimensions would allow for 3 of these pairs which would give 7.2V* 9,150mAh=65,880mWh - but there would be no space for the electronic circuitboard and connectors. So the 25,600mAh rating makes for a puzzle - without Voltage specs, we don't know the energy reserve. It's a great thing on paper and can do DC-DC voltage conversions. It's great in that it can "talk" two USB-turbo charge protocols. But if it can recharge my 17" notebook's battery (that would need 100W power) from its energy reserve? I doubt it. If we assume the 25,600 to relate to the 5V base of USB, then we have 128,000 mWh (==128 Wh - roughly 1/8th of a kWh) and that's a big stretch relative to cells in the market.
Great info. I've been carrying an older RayPower 26800mAh/99Wh but it only has USB-A so it does not work with my new z50ii. Ordered the INIU 100W Power Bank and the MINIX wall charger from your links. Thanks for the info!
@@Upnorth_overland I guess no enough power with the old USB-A cable. The manual on the z50ii specifically says USB-C to USB-C - so I tried to verify this. Yep. The old USB-A does not seem to work. This new unit does.
Sorry Hudson, but following your link reference at roughly 4:48 into your video for the Anker 20W 2 pack shows the 2 pack at Amazon for $65.99, not forty dollars as of this morning.
I bought the new Anker Power Bank before I saw your video - currently discounted to £69.99 in the UK. My current Anker Power Bank won’t charge a Leica! Off to NZ shortly and my wall charger does have the right plug. I’ve bought a Tessan 140w Universal Travel adapter which takes a standard plug, USB-C and USB-A. Short Thunderbolt 5 cables will also be coming along on the trip.
I agree with your position, but have chosen the spare battery approach. And all my cameras run off any Nikon branded EN-EL15 (a, b, c versions). There is no fundamentalist theory here, just my version of pragmatism. So I have been looking at alternatives, too. One of the NY, NY photovideo superstores offers a 3rd party bundle of two camera batteries combined with charger that takes two in parallel and can be fed from AC around the world (110V..240V) as well as cigarette lighter outlets in cars (12..24V). Interestingly, the charger has a USB-C outlet to charge a device, I guess it can also use the charge in the batteries if not connected to an outlet and batteries are in it. To be verified. The super store promises compatibility of batteries in the EN-EL18d variant, with the Z 9 and older. Unfortunately a Z 8 is not compatible with the EN-EL15c batteries in that bundle variant. In a response to another comment, I have a deep dive into USB and energy details, using a powerbank as example that is not discussed in the video. I discuss it, but neither advice for, nor against it. Buyers have to do their own due diligence. As to the EN-EL18c, the Nikon branded has an energy reserve of 35,640 mWh (if this is meaningless to you, find my other comment). Third party brands claim higher, up to 41,040 mWh. The Nikon branded EN-EL15c stores an energy reserve of 15,960 mWh (due to lower Voltage and lower mAh). I bring 4 spares in a cloth bag made for this battery confection, with separate pouches for each battery. This easily has passed TSA in the past. I would still bring a powerbank, to charge the smartphone or facilitate very long video takes with the Z 8.
Do you worry about wearing out the usb c port on the camera? My Samsung S22, granted it's showing it's age, can't charge via the usb port anymore due to the many many times that the port has been used (either for charging or other accessories). It can only charge wirelessly. I try to never use the usb ports on my cameras due to this worry (unless I really have too).
My Anker Power Core III unit saved my a$$ on a shoot when I dumbly missed packing an extra battery for my Z9...it was a long marching band show and there was an hour break for dinner, I'm about 3500 shots in and went to the pocket with my extra batteries and, uh-oh! Well, I plugged the camera into the Anker and by the time break was over I was at 80%...whew!
do those two birds at the 11:19 mark mean anything? some sort of subliminal message? "with these powerbanks you'll be able to take better pics of BIF" 😛
Been doing it for 3 years on my Z9 now. 100s of cycles. Nikon built it to do it and I've never charged it any other way. It's built for PD power input.
@@HudsonHenryPhoto interesting! right now my old anker doesnt seem to have enough output for the Zf and no usbc, maybe i'll buy a new one :) thank you!
I’m almost 100% certain you can not charge via PD while the camera is on with the z6iii. The camera has to be off in my experience in order to charge through the usb-c port. Unless I’m missing something in the manual.
Nope. Incorrect. Try it. i did several long night shoots on PD power with the Z6iii I reviewed. It works on every Nikon Z since the Z6ii and Z7ii launched including even the Zfc, Z30 and Z50ii.
@@HudsonHenryPhoto Z5 has PD too, I've been using it since 2020, super useful to have built in charging. You can charge with regular USB as well, it takes about 8 hours though for my Z5, but useful overnight or on a non-PD pack. People have run tests, at least on Z5 and it may be the same in the others, 2.5w draw on regular non-pd USB charge and 10w on PD, so it's not pumping the 140watts or any of that though the camera at any time, just 10w. It should be about 3 hours to charge a totally dead battery, since they're usually not that dead it's realistically an hour to 2 hours to top up a typical discharged one, in my experience. I agree 100% Nikon built them for this and I use them for PD charging with no issues, Z5, Z8 or Zf own. And with the viltrox setup I mentioned in a separate comment, that has its own advantages.
For a "power-delivery-capable" camera, sure. But we have to keep in mind that many cameras can charge from USB only while switched off. And here's the kicker; I'd wager the vast majority of cameras in use don't have either capability. Besides that, a battery bank is only as good as one's habit of keeping it topped off. If one develops the habit of relying on a high-capacity battery pack that just goes and goes, one is at great risk of forgetting that things need charging. For me, having a spare battery that I know is topped off is a better option. For my older DSLRs, it's the only option.
What cameras aren’t power delivery capable? 99% sure all of the Nikon mirrorless are. Also, that’s terrible logic. Any battery is useless if you don’t charge it 😂
Great video! So, I bought the Iniu. Just got it. You're right, its a chunky little thing. That said, after it's charged, it's going straight in my camera backpack. I was going to buy a couple more batteries for my Z6III / Z8. Only had 5 total batteries and knew I would need a couple more, at least. So, this saved me quite a bit of money and should be a more effective solution. Thanks for the great advice.
I took your advice and got the anker power core a couple months ago. It meets all my needs and I'm very happy with it.
Great video ! L-camera batteries are eye watering expensive , this is really good idea....
update - picked up an Iniu. It is a bit tough to predict right now where import prices are headed. Best regards ...
Great ideas Hudson. The one spare camera battery is good idea just in case you have a charging issue with one which can happen. I have a 24K Anker I love but a bit heavy. Been looking at the Nitecore carbon fiber one that seems to be substantially lighter. I did buy the Minix and agree it's amazing. Thanks.
Nitcore is a great brand, and their US warehouse is in Austin. I've had a problem with a blower, and they replaced it out of warranty!
OMG Hudson ! STOP with these recommendations. I just keep spending FFS LOL. Just received the UNIU P63-E1 Powerbank. Nice !
I bought a battery pack (38,600mA) on Amazon that has 2 different cables stored in the edges of it, and one entire side of the unit is a solar panel, so when out in daylight it will charge the battery. It will charge 3 devices at a time. It has a compass built in and a flashlight/emergency light. It is so handy that I bought a second one for my wife.
I recently purchased the Llano TurboCell Camera Battery Power Bank Charger for en-el15c. Another good choice!
Thanks for mentioning this device . . . just picked one up for shooting trip to southern Germany, seems likely to make life simpler.
I have been onboard with this approach for charging for a while. For the non-PD cameras, I have found cheap, light 3rd party USB C powered chargers that are working well for me.
A word of warning ... a Canon R5 needs more than this, and although I know my battery pack is large enough to use to both power and charge it, it is nigh-on impossible to find the actual values required (I did, once, and cannot find it again!).
Also, thete is talk that the R5's behaviour changes when you have the battery grip (with 2 batteries) attached.
Get the biggest possible PD output you can!
Edit/update:
I hooked my 5R (with battery grip) to my Anker C1000x (1kwH battery !) and it told me the following outputs.
For charging, my understanding is that PD negotiates 18w (eg 2A @ 9v) before it will start, but once agreed (R5 turned off), the R5 drew only 6W to charge the battery!!
Also, the R5 negotiates 27w to run on battery (without charging), but was only drawing up to 9w to run ... including basic video. I haven't tested availability of High-speed + shooting yet (nor 8k video), it'll either not be available or should ask for more power ...
So, tldr, for normal operation you need PD 9v x 2A to charge battery, and 9v x 3A to run the R5, but it seems to not actually use anywhere near that on either case!
Bummer. Every Nikon since the Z6ii and Z7ii launched are PD certified.
Tether Tools (TT) have a powerbank (US$180) with 25,600mAh that offers 2x USB-C PowerDelivery (PD) and should be able to do up to 150W. I will elaborate about details that may help you get into control on the pathfinding of a solution :( . You will see that I am neutral about recommending it.
This TT device also has a USB-A output that offers QuickCharge (QC) version 3 and is pass-through capable. "PowerDelivery" and QuickCharge" are different standards/protocols that facilitate higher Voltages and Ampères than basic standard USB.
Plus this TT claims to be TSA compliant.
You see here that a powerbank and capacity is one thing, but connecting it properly is another.
Up to 150W is a scholastic claim. We have to look at each of the USB connector capabilities:
USB-C #1
- Input/Output
5 VDC * 3A = 15W
9 VDC * 3A = 27W
12 VDC * 3A = 36W
15 VDC * 3A = 45W
20 VDC * 5A = 100W
USB-C #2
- Input/Output
5 VDC * 3A = 15W
9 VDC * 3A = 27W
12 VDC * 2.25A = 27W
USB-A
- Output
5 VDC * 4.5A = 22.5W
4.5 VDC * 5A = 22.5W
9 VDC * 2A = 18W
12 VDC * 1.5A = 18W
So the device maxes out at 100W + 27W + 18W = 145W with all ports combined - the 5W is probably lost in transformation and other losses.
What setting the camera and powerbank will choose depends on the port you use and the cable and the protocol version - if they don't understand each other, or the wrong combination is in place, then the chain will fall down to default old-school USB: 5V and 3A or less A.
This TT-brand powerbank comes with a 1' cable and here, "cable" is yet another pitfall.
Search YT for one of the myth-buster guys and their video that explains why an Apple branded USB-C Thunderbolt cable costs more than $100. The "cable" has a chip on each side in the connector. It has a network of data lines and power lines inside. The chip on one end multiplexes the "sends" into parallel lines and the other side puts them into series again. And the "receive" lines get a similar treatment in the other direction. With error protection. And the chips negotiate either the PD, or the QC protocol, or maybe are bi-lingual, to see about capabilities at either side plus its own. Of course replacing the Apple logo by another brand halves the price. But buying cheap probably means that it's not good enough. We need laws that force printing capabilities on the plugs, e.g. TB4 on one side of the plug and 100W on the other side - at both ends.
The point is that you now must even consider the capabilities of your cables. "USB-C" is just about the connector and says nothing about bandwidth (data speed) and nothing about Voltages and Ampères. A nondescript USB-C to USB-C cable may only have USB 2 capabilities of about 5V*1..3A = 5..15W. If you have TB devices, maybe replace all cables by TB4 certified ones that have USB-4 too and are fully backward compatible. The 1 foot long cables may have only wires inside, no chips. Note there are USB-4 cables that have no TB4 certification (needs to be done by Intel).
Between my Nikon Z 8 and both power and data (tethering) solutions this is an ongoing concern. It has two ports and Nikon are not precise enough in what is precisely supported. I need this down to the nitty-gritty.
I elaborate a bit still, below, about more scholastic aspects that consumers may be fooled by. "Everybody does it" and "nobody tries to get to the bottom of it all" so everybody keeps doing it.
Note that W (Watt) are like horsepower and mAh like, say, torque. They tell nothing about how far your fuel tank gets you.
We need kilo.Watt.hours, milli.Watt.hours, or Watt.seconds for that. There's about 34 kWh in a gallon so your compact's 10 US gallon fuel tank can hold 340 kWh. And we also need your engine's efficiency and behavioural data. The 340 kWh in a tank sound like a lot compared to your eV's battery, but the efficiency of the ICE car may max out at 25% (at best) and if you have to drive it through mountains without regenerative braking that recharges the reserve ...
As this TT powerbank gets rated at 25,600mAh, we have no hard energy reserve. We don't know what Voltage this is expressed at and generally this is the sum of the cells in the bank. There might be, say, 21700 cells in there that each could give 3.6V*3,050mAh=10,980mWh energy reserve. Two cells in series then give 7.2V* 3,050mAh=21,960mWh. The case dimensions would allow for 3 of these pairs which would give 7.2V* 9,150mAh=65,880mWh - but there would be no space for the electronic circuitboard and connectors. So the 25,600mAh rating makes for a puzzle - without Voltage specs, we don't know the energy reserve. It's a great thing on paper and can do DC-DC voltage conversions. It's great in that it can "talk" two USB-turbo charge protocols. But if it can recharge my 17" notebook's battery (that would need 100W power) from its energy reserve? I doubt it.
If we assume the 25,600 to relate to the 5V base of USB, then we have 128,000 mWh (==128 Wh - roughly 1/8th of a kWh) and that's a big stretch relative to cells in the market.
Great info. I've been carrying an older RayPower 26800mAh/99Wh but it only has USB-A so it does not work with my new z50ii. Ordered the INIU 100W Power Bank and the MINIX wall charger from your links. Thanks for the info!
How does it not work on the z50ii?
@@Upnorth_overland I guess no enough power with the old USB-A cable. The manual on the z50ii specifically says USB-C to USB-C - so I tried to verify this. Yep. The old USB-A does not seem to work. This new unit does.
I bought a two pack on your recommendation for my Z50ii.
Sorry Hudson, but following your link reference at roughly 4:48 into your video for the Anker 20W 2 pack shows the 2 pack at Amazon for $65.99, not forty dollars as of this morning.
Just got back from Patagonia and took only the Anker 737 23,00mAh 3-ports which charged a Nikon Z9 and Z6 during the W-Trek.
I bought the new Anker Power Bank before I saw your video - currently discounted to £69.99 in the UK. My current Anker Power Bank won’t charge a Leica! Off to NZ shortly and my wall charger does have the right plug. I’ve bought a Tessan 140w Universal Travel adapter which takes a standard plug, USB-C and USB-A. Short Thunderbolt 5 cables will also be coming along on the trip.
It has to be PD certified. Many do not carry that. Not all Ankers do.
@ Strangely the Anker 737 is PD capable and charges my Z8 without a problem. But it doesn’t charge the Leica!
I agree with your position, but have chosen the spare battery approach. And all my cameras run off any Nikon branded EN-EL15 (a, b, c versions). There is no fundamentalist theory here, just my version of pragmatism.
So I have been looking at alternatives, too. One of the NY, NY photovideo superstores offers a 3rd party bundle of two camera batteries combined with charger that takes two in parallel and can be fed from AC around the world (110V..240V) as well as cigarette lighter outlets in cars (12..24V).
Interestingly, the charger has a USB-C outlet to charge a device, I guess it can also use the charge in the batteries if not connected to an outlet and batteries are in it. To be verified.
The super store promises compatibility of batteries in the EN-EL18d variant, with the Z 9 and older.
Unfortunately a Z 8 is not compatible with the EN-EL15c batteries in that bundle variant.
In a response to another comment, I have a deep dive into USB and energy details, using a powerbank as example that is not discussed in the video. I discuss it, but neither advice for, nor against it. Buyers have to do their own due diligence.
As to the EN-EL18c, the Nikon branded has an energy reserve of 35,640 mWh (if this is meaningless to you, find my other comment).
Third party brands claim higher, up to 41,040 mWh.
The Nikon branded EN-EL15c stores an energy reserve of 15,960 mWh (due to lower Voltage and lower mAh). I bring 4 spares in a cloth bag made for this battery confection, with separate pouches for each battery. This easily has passed TSA in the past. I would still bring a powerbank, to charge the smartphone or facilitate very long video takes with the Z 8.
Do you worry about wearing out the usb c port on the camera? My Samsung S22, granted it's showing it's age, can't charge via the usb port anymore due to the many many times that the port has been used (either for charging or other accessories). It can only charge wirelessly. I try to never use the usb ports on my cameras due to this worry (unless I really have too).
Will I able to use those external battery for Canon 5D mark IV?
yes. I do
My Anker Power Core III unit saved my a$$ on a shoot when I dumbly missed packing an extra battery for my Z9...it was a long marching band show and there was an hour
break for dinner, I'm about 3500 shots in and went to the pocket with my extra batteries and, uh-oh! Well, I plugged the camera into the Anker and by the time
break was over I was at 80%...whew!
do those two birds at the 11:19 mark mean anything? some sort of subliminal message? "with these powerbanks you'll be able to take better pics of BIF" 😛
woah, I must have left a frame of an image on the timeliine in the edit. Total accident. I never noticed. Sorry.
20,000 mAh --> 20Ah :) May main point tho is that capacities are measured in "Amp-hours". I'm a bit of a nerd, I guess.
Charging through usb means sending current through the mainboard, I wouldn’t do it all the time at least.
Been doing it for 3 years on my Z9 now. 100s of cycles. Nikon built it to do it and I've never charged it any other way. It's built for PD power input.
@@HudsonHenryPhoto interesting! right now my old anker doesnt seem to have enough output for the Zf and no usbc, maybe i'll buy a new one :) thank you!
I’m almost 100% certain you can not charge via PD while the camera is on with the z6iii. The camera has to be off in my experience in order to charge through the usb-c port. Unless I’m missing something in the manual.
Nope. Incorrect. Try it. i did several long night shoots on PD power with the Z6iii I reviewed. It works on every Nikon Z since the Z6ii and Z7ii launched including even the Zfc, Z30 and Z50ii.
@@HudsonHenryPhoto Z5 has PD too, I've been using it since 2020, super useful to have built in charging. You can charge with regular USB as well, it takes about 8 hours though for my Z5, but useful overnight or on a non-PD pack. People have run tests, at least on Z5 and it may be the same in the others, 2.5w draw on regular non-pd USB charge and 10w on PD, so it's not pumping the 140watts or any of that though the camera at any time, just 10w. It should be about 3 hours to charge a totally dead battery, since they're usually not that dead it's realistically an hour to 2 hours to top up a typical discharged one, in my experience. I agree 100% Nikon built them for this and I use them for PD charging with no issues, Z5, Z8 or Zf own. And with the viltrox setup I mentioned in a separate comment, that has its own advantages.
@ I will dig deeper into this. It could be the PD bank I had wasn’t compatible and the information I got online was incorrect.
For a "power-delivery-capable" camera, sure. But we have to keep in mind that many cameras can charge from USB only while switched off. And here's the kicker; I'd wager the vast majority of cameras in use don't have either capability. Besides that, a battery bank is only as good as one's habit of keeping it topped off. If one develops the habit of relying on a high-capacity battery pack that just goes and goes, one is at great risk of forgetting that things need charging. For me, having a spare battery that I know is topped off is a better option. For my older DSLRs, it's the only option.
What cameras aren’t power delivery capable? 99% sure all of the Nikon mirrorless are. Also, that’s terrible logic. Any battery is useless if you don’t charge it 😂
Off topic. Seeing your such a great fan of ON1 Photo Raw 2025, can you tell me why, when tethering, it does not recognise my Canon 1100D??