Replacing the Bearings on the B&G 608 Anemometer - Wind Sensor
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- Опубликовано: 20 июн 2020
- How to disassemble the B&G 608 Wind Sensor to access the bearings.
My anemometer stopped spinning freely after only 3 years. I wanted to oil or replace the bearings themselves and didn't want to spend $99 to replace the entire bearing unit.
I got lucky and used a little bit of machine oil to lubricate the bearings. The cups are spinning free again. I didn't have any issues for 3 months. Eventually, the cups stopped spinning in low wind.
Update: These are the bearings I ordered but they are currently out of stock.
amzn.to/3T9TEyx
B&G charges $110 for the replacement bearing unit here...
www.bandg.com/bg/type/instrum...
Disclaimer: As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. 
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Thank for this video! My B&G WS310 just stopped working reliably and thanks to your video I was able to get it oiled up and working again. I'm in the Caribbean where I can get Amazon but will definitely have friends/family fly some in when they come visit.
Very helpful, than you for taking the time to do this. I read /Watched this a year ago, and bought some SS Race, Ceramic Ball bearings from VXB a year ago, and finally got around to replacing them. I bought another unit that was 4 years old, so that is up there now, but Now I think I would like this rebuilt unit up there, I think it will be better. The old bearings felt like there was sand in them, they were so rusty.
Do you have a link to the SS bearings you bought?
Thanks for posting this video (and saving me some cash). I couldn’t find any documentation on how to disassemble the unit to replace the bearings. My bearings were grinding so the cups would squeak to a halt. I dropped in some dry lube to buy me time (I’ll find out tomorrow when I go up the mast), and new bearings will be here after the weekend! Thanks again and happy sailing
Glad it was useful!
Thank you! I found that the screw was VERY hard to unscrew and even harder to tighten from the PLASTIC connector for the speed cups.
I'm thinking about sealing the hole to reduce water infiltration into the bearing assembly.
BTW a Torx T6H, while not as good as the Allen wrench, will fit.
Perfect thank you! The top end is also offset on mine (bg508). One bearing is stuck inside at the time of the comment, hope it'll come out. Nice vid, thanks for putting this together
Thanks! Very helpfull, indeed. Had to buy a set of tools to get the screw out but in the end it worked. Now start the search for bearings and lock screw!😅
Thanx for the nice and really usefull video. I have also B&G MHU 496 on my boat, but its anemometer magnet broke. Have you got any idea where could I buy that magnet only as I can't afford myself to buy the whole Wind Speed Bearing kit.
The magnet might be tricky to match but not impossible. My sensor is at the top of my mast right now. If you have a pair of calipers you can try measuring it and searching for a ring magnet. I suspect its ferrite based on the color. I say its tricky because if the magnet is too strong the movement of it may not be enough to trip the sensor on each rotation. Good luck!
Thanks for the helpful video! How did you know your bearings were shot? Did the unit fail completely or just slow down? The data coming from our unit jumps around a lot in steady wind. When damping is turned on, it seems to be underreporting the wind speed. Right now, the wind is whistling through the rigging, and it's displaying from between 4 knots and 13 knots. Actual conditions feel like maybe 11 or 12 knots gusting to 13. Would that be consistent with bad bearings? Thanks again!
It could be bad bearings. In my case, the cups stopped moving in low wind. If the wind was fast enough, they would move but I didn't trust it. If you can access it, try rotating the cups manually and seeing if it feels like it's getting stuck or harder to turn at any one point.
@@austinbrougher7456 We're in the Caribbean and haven't had any really low wind days in a long time. I'll try to go up there and give it a spin. Thanks again
Great. I need to replace the pcb board I think...unit not registering wind data, and while plugged in it knocks out other NMEA 2000 networked inputs; autopilot, depth, radar, rudder feedback...But my bearings seem fine.
Were yours’ noticeably not smooth ? I’d rather not re-install until I have all parts needed. I’m down in Grenada for hurricane season 👍...75’ mast height 🤪
The first time I brought it down I noticed the bearings were getting stuck a little. I added some sewing machine oil and that fixed it for a few weeks. It eventually stopped working in low wind so I decided to try and replace the bearings. It's still working great. It does sound like you may have another issue. Good luck!
Hi! Great video!
Do you remember how the magnet is attached to the shaft? I am replacing the bearings in my unit, and I just found that the magnet is inserted into the shaft but it can spin independently of it. I am considering to use loctite to glue it to the shaft, but I would prefer to understand how is the original set up. Thanks.
Its at the top of the mast now but I remember it looking like it was glued on. You can see it at 4:04
@@austinbrougher7456 thanks!
Hello! A great clip! But abt replacement bearings: really not metric measurements? And material is steel CR15, corroding alloy?
Great point! The original bearings are out of stock. I've removed the link to the steel bearings. Once I have some time I'll see if I can find good replacement. Appreciate the feedback!
Well done Austin, like the work you have done. I have a similar problem with a Furuno FI 5000(L) wind anemometer/direction device. I have read on the Furuno Users Website there is a method of doing this task, although Furuno Tech advise the device is irreparable. Have you, or anyone on this thread had any experience with a Furuno device? Cheers, Jim
Sorry for the late response. I have no experience with other sensors.
Great video ! Where do I get the bearings? Thanks
Thanks! I've included a link in the description.
I have a KVH MHU.....Need the whole Bearing Assembly....I know it's ancient but I am a KVH Quadro Super fan. Cetrek and DanaPlus and maybe IS15 are the same MHU. Or maybe a Ultrasonic MHU will work with the BrainBox. Any ideas?
Sorry Roger. I'm a novice. I would call the manufacturer and see what they recommend. I've always found this to be the safest approach. That and looking for a place with free returns. :)
Слишком длинное видимо 👍
Did you measure the bearings yourself or lifted the dimensions off the bearings inscription. Reason for the ask is; if I can source a metric equivalent for them. Imperial sized bearings are extremely hard to find in my neck of the woods!
I measured myself. If you find a good metric match please share.
@@austinbrougher7456
SFR25ZZ(1/8"=3.175mm, 5/16"=7.938mm, 9/64"=3.5719mm, Df 0.3590"= 9,12mm)
SMF83ZZ(3mm, 8mm, 3mm, Df=9.2mm) ((-0.175mm=-0.0069"),( +0,062mm=+0.0024"), (-0.571mm=-1/64"),(+0.08mm=+0.00315"))
SMF693ZZ(3mm, 8mm, 4mm, Df9.5mm) ((-0.175mm=-0.0069"),( +0,062mm=+0.0024"), (+0.4281mm=1/64"), (+0.38mm = 1/64))
they are both extremely close. All differences are below 1/64". SMF833ZZ is a looser fit. SMF693ZZ is a tighter fit.
I think I'll get both and share the results when I have a chance to climb up the mast :)
@@f00barfoobar 3 x 8 x 3mm does not fit. Unfortunately the right ones you mentioned above, are currently unavailable.
@@62deleeuw Thanks for this. I still couldn't find an opportunity to head over (800 kms) to try. You saved me a significant amount of grief :). In the mean time I discovered a local store that specializes in miniature bearings and and found a pair of EZO SFR25ZZs. Apparently these are frequently used in dental equipment. You may want to try your luck with dental equipment service shops.
@@f00barfoobar Well... with some modifications to the axle and with help of an 8 mm drill, i made them fit. Wait and see if it was a succes or it´s demolished.
Thx!
Where did you get the new bearings from?
I ordered from here. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D4WD6P6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I found them at: vxb.com with ceramic bearings.
@@austinbrougher7456 Thanks for this! I just bought the $99 part from B&G so now I have a spare when this thing goes bad in another 3 years. How did you figure out the bearing size?
Have you thought about using ceramic bearings, considering these are used in a marine environment?
This is a really good suggestion. I ended up ordering these. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D4WD6P6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@@austinbrougher7456 I wonder if the supposedly lower friction of the ceramic bearings (see their description) would result in higher-than-factory readings.
@@kdl0 I can't imagine it would. The rotation speed is determined by what radius the cups are placed. The further out the lower the rpm at a given wind speed and vice versa.
The marketing for ceramic bearings suggests "faster speeds" due to less resistance. For our purposes, do you think this only means faster to get up to speed and that the sensor won't overstate windspeed? And perhaps also more accuracy at lower windspeeds? The cups can't move faster than the wind pushing them, in other words.. right?
Great call out. I know over time the bearings wear out and additional friction is introduced. I think friction may lead to reduced readings. The same thing will happen to the ceramic bearings. Eventually the ceramic bearings will become slower to the point they perform as well as the stock bearings.
@@austinbrougher7456 I wonder how deceleration of the cups works as well - say the wind is 20 and then drops to 0. Do the cups keep spinning? Is some friction more desirable than a hypothetical zero friction? Hmm.. not sure how the physics of this works!
A good public paper here on anemometers: www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4279541/
They mention "overspeeding" but it's a misnomer - they mean over reporting during deceleration or turbulent flows, not speeding faster than windspeed.
I suppose we only really care about acceleration and max winds and don't care so much if it takes a little longer for the sensor to report decelerations.