Whirlpool/Kenmore Top Load Washer Transmission
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- Опубликовано: 7 ноя 2010
- This video provides step-by-step instructions for replacing the transmission on top loading direct drive Whirlpool washing machines. The most common reasons for replacing the transmission are when the washer is making loud noises or won’t spin or agitate.
Click here to purchase Part #3360629: www.repairclinic.com/PartDetai...
Additional washing machine repair, troubleshooting tips, help with finding your model number, and part replacement videos: www.repairclinic.com/RepairHel...
All the information in this transmission replacement video is applicable to the following brands: Whirlpool, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Estate, Inglis, Crosley, Amana, Admiral
Tools used: flat-head screwdriver, Phillips head screwdriver, pliers, putty knife, 7/16” socket, hex socket
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first time fixer repair man charging to much l learned to do it myself from this video.....thank you
You're welcome!
We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review
We hope that you have a great day!
Thank you guys!!! I just fixed my washer with the help of this video. Saved some serious cash. Ever grateful.
It's our pleasure! Glad we could help you with your repair!
Just a simple plastic coupler!!! Thank you sooo much for a great post. I guess the wife will have to wait for a new washer another day :)
The coupler can be bought separately on our website. The coupler used with this model is item #1195967. Have a great repair!
Thank you for the excellent tutorial, fixed our old trusty washer myself without a hitch! 😀👍🏻
I watched 3 other videos before yours, and finely got the info I needed from yours. THANKS!!
Great! I'm glad your repair was successful.
This video saved me $400 for a new washer. After following these instructions I found it was the plastic coupler between the motor and the transmission that had broken. It cost me $6.00 to fix.
Did the issue cause your agitator to be "Locked in place" when trying to operate (counter-clockwise) but still allow it to be freely turned clockwise, by hand?
common logic I do not remember if that was the case or not. But this disassembly is super easy, so don’t be afraid to take it apart, of that is why you are asking.
@@NorthernChev - Yeah, I pulled it apart later that evening and the coupler was demolished (Good news). The thing is, that with it gone, the agitator SHOULD have turned freely as it's now independent from everything else unless there was a piece of the coupler wedged in place somehow OR I'm not understanding how the clutch works.
...Either way, for the $10.00, I ordered the coupler and a clutch kit as I'm sure the old one was slipping just a hair anyway. All I can do now is wait anxiously for the UPS delivery as I count the pairs of clean socks left in the dresser drawer. ;-)
@Caleb Edwards - I installed the coupler along with a clutch kit. I used the heavy-duty springs that were included, as I routinely abuse the machine with heavy loads including moving pads and canvas tarps. Everything worked 100% after the $10.00 kit. That's a "Win". =)
It is more likely the drive block than the transmission. We recommend using the repair help section of our website (link in the description). If you enter your model number there you'll have access to model, part and symptom specific repair help. This will show you all of the parts that could be causing your problem.
Thanks for the comment. This particular model doesn't actually have the parts you're referring to. Some models have them and some don't. If you need help regarding those parts we can still help you! Refer to the repair help section of our website for assistance.
Removing rusted bolts can be a huge pain. There are many helpful articles online though. I would recommend finding one of those through a Google search and following along.
Superb video. I simply followed the procedure and quickly discovered the broken part....the "coupler cog" aka motor drive coupling. $11.95 part. Thank you. Tip: When you're reassembling, getting the final seating is much easier if you stand the machine upside down. There's very little pressure on the control panel. This will let gravity work for you instead of trying to wrestle with the heavy motor/trans. I had it seated in seconds without any trouble.
thank you so much for your response, but I did that and it still won't go in far enough for me to bolt the transmission back to the frame. any advice?
you mention that when reinstalling the transmission, some adjustment may be needed for it to seat properly. what kind of adjustments? my transmission doesnt seem to go all the way back in, but the clutch part is coming in contact with the washing machine itself. any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Great video was extremely helpful. Didn't think I could ever do this but wasn't really that bad. Only a couple of things that hung me up, (I found on other videos), Putting the clutch back on properly and "parking" the brake side (I think that's what they called it) so I could the whole assembly fit back on the 3 mounting brackets. All in all a great video saved me about 200 dollars.
Bucky Long Congrats on the successful repair!
I just did all this, but I think I am having a problem with the breaks. The tub spins, but when it stops it doesn't slow down to a halt, it stops immediately and the machine jumps. Which videos do you think would help with that? Thanks in advance!
excellent video. i followed it step by step and the replacement was simple. thank you so much.
No problem!
The motor on your GE washer turns one way to wash and reverses to spin. If it is working in the spin and not agitating after the water fills to the set level. The problem is in either the motor windings or the timer. The only way to know which one is to check power to the motor according to the wiring schematic or check the motor windings and centrifugal switch with a meter.
What is the consequence of not opening / clearing the vent hole before installing the gearcase? Will it cause oil to leak out?
my washing machine makes a buzzing type sound when it's time for it to wash. I replaced the coupler bell and put the agitator back on but it still didn't agitate. I did the motor reset test but nothing still. I checked the belt and it was ok. Any ideas what it could be. Btw it is a GE profile washer model #Wvsr1060b3ww. It also spins dry and the water goes out also.
thank u for making this easy!
Great tutorial.....excellent
I have performed a transmission change out but forgot to puncture the vent hole. Will there be any problem later on?
Great instructional video. Tremendously helpful!!! Thank you very much!!!
You're welcome! Thanks for the compliment!
This video saved me from having to buy a new washer.
Thank you!
Very Helpful video. Thank you.
Just wondering do you have to lube the transmission shaft before installation?
Video done whit style & know how, bravo.
luc patenaude Thanks.
Thanks for the vid, what if one of the wires on top of the motor is shorting? The washer won't drain and stops after a few seconds on some speeds. I couldn't find any obstructions and the pump turns fine. I replaced the gear case & motor coupler, but it is still doing the same thing. And then I noticed one of the wires on top of the motor is black and melted at the connection. Can I just replace the wire connection or is something else causing the motor to overheat?
Thank you for this.
I have a Whirlpool top loader and when the spin cycle ends the tub comes to an immediate stop. It’s very loud. Could that have something to do with the transmission?
Thanks for this! Missed the step about removing the agitator... though it seems forehead-slappingly obvious in hindsight. :D
If you are sure the clutch is on the transmission properly you might check the break on the spin tube, it may have slid down a little. You can turn the white cam while pushing up on the spin tube assembly. If it goes up a half inch or so that is most likely the problem. The spin tube will hold in that place when the white cam is released.
Thank you for this comment, it just saved me a lot of frustration!
I'm trying to pull out the transmission from a Kenmore washer as per this video. It comes out an inch or two, then stops. I've pulled quite hard but will not move further so far. Can it just be quite hard to get out or could there be something else holding it? There was a retaining clip on the top I had to pull off before it would pull out more than an inch or so that was not mentioned in the video so wondering if there could be something else I cannot see...
I believe there is a top shaft seal that goes in the tub/agitator connector. Should that be replaced at the same time? Is it even possible to replace that seal without pulling the transmission. I've got a leak that only occurs with high water setting and fast agitation. I've replaced the tub seal but that didn't do it. Also, I had a bit of an oily mess under the washer/transmission area. (Wife says just buy a new washer but I don't think we will be happy with that given all of the reviews I have read!)
Thanks for the clear instructions! My washer was spinning, but making a repeating grinding/rubbing noise (like a seal barking) whose speed was constant (approximately the same speed as the agitation cycle) as the basket spun up from slow to fast. Replacing the transmission fixed the problem. I think the agitation mechanism was somehow being engaged during the spin cycle.
I have a question, should the clutch have a free play or should it be firm, mine move up and down a little, just a little?
How bad is it if i lost the screws that hold the clips into place that hold the motor into the transmission plate?
Would this be the cause for a slow spin cycle? With lots of towels mine can't build up enough speed and they come out soaking wet. Regular loads come out fine.
thank you so much!
Followed your instructions to the letter. My washer is running like new. Thank you so much👍
How much play should there be in the gearbox shaft? I can wiggle mine. Is there a bearing that can be serviced?
Oh shit!!! I forgot to put that clamp back on at 3:16-3.17 over the other one after I fixed it. Will it be okay and work without it? :-(
When we say that we mean adjusting the transmission to make sure the clutch spring is opposite the brake cam. The transmission will not fully seat if they are in line with each other.
My agitator isn't turning during the wash OR spin cycle. It turns freely, with light resistance (by hand) clockwise, but is an immovable force when I try to manually turn it counter-clockwise. It also sounds as if it is trying to turn but can't during the spin cycle and wash cycle.
Could this be the coupler broken and something jammed? I would think that by spinning it clockwise, I would feel something break loose if it were simply broken cog pieces in the coupler. Any ideas?
Any clue why my washer will only agitate in one direction. Want to make sure before I replace the gearcase. I just replaced the agitator dogs and the motor coupler. My washer will go through the full wash cycle but will only agitate in one direction.
Great video! Super useful!
Question: What will happen if you dont clear the vent hole? I used a small nail and a hammer but I'm not sure it went all the way through...
When the transmission works, it heats up. Air expands when it heats, so it needs a tiny vent to normalize the pressure between the inside of the warm gear case and ambient temperature.
If oils leaking will that prevent it from spinning also .. I thought it was the coup link buy it eas fine .. it was oil on the floor when I moved the washer machine
Thank you, your video helped greatly. I was working on a stacker so did things a bit differently but was relatively easy with your video's assistance!
thanks i am going to try it
My washer is making a ratcheting noise during the agitation cycle. The auger still turns. Everything else works. Light on the same outlet dime on and off while the machine is making that noise. The machine also smells like the motors are working too hard. Any suggestions? Thanks for the help.
There is no seal between the cases. They use a sealer part #470613. The top seal is part #519811 if oil is coming out of the top. You would need to loose a lot of oil to damage the transmission.
It's important to have the screws in the clips. Wouldn't want the motor falling out of place!
If it's that plastic coupler where can you purchase?
Washer has a burning smell--would that be the transmission or the motor?
If it's a direct drive, then it's the motor locking up or tightening up, causing it to overheat. If it's a new age, the drain pump has it's own motor independent from the main motor, and the drain pump is either running dry or stuck because of a clog, causing the drain pumps motor to overheat.
What about the big nut on top of the agitator that takes a special spanner wrench?
My washer spins the water out but doesn't agitate. Would that be the transmission or the control?
Should have watched this first before I destroyed every part on my damn washer. Sometimes I am sooo dumb
nice video
I would recommend clearing the hole. What might happen is the oil may get foamy and not lubricate properly after a long period of run time. You can bend a paper clip and try to reach the hole from under the unit.
RepairClinic.com HELP!!! My 2005 kenmore elite top loader spins but takes forever to get up to full speed and doesn’t get the clothes dry enough, so I always have to run the spin cycle 3 or more additional times no matter how big or small the load is. Any idea? Could it be a bad clutch, faulty motor capacitor, bad bearings, or weak motor possibly? Every google search leads me to nowhere.
HELP!!! My 2005 kenmore elite top loader spins but takes forever to get up to full speed and doesn’t get the clothes dry enough, so I always have to run the spin cycle 3 or more additional times no matter how big or small the load is. Any idea? Could it be a bad clutch, faulty motor capacitor, bad bearings, or weak motor possibly? Every google search leads me to nowhere.
Hi - Fabulous video! Makes a tough job into an easy job! I have one related question/issue here. My Kenmore transmission appears to be leaking gear oil from the bottom on the machine. On your referred to site to purchase a replacement transmission it says, "If the washer or transmission is laid on it's back or side for extended period of time oil may leak out of the transmission". Well my machine was definitely (& accidentally) resting on its back overnite shortly before the leak was detected. If the transmission is still functional (it seems to be), can the gear oil be refilled to prevent damage? Anyplace you can refer for more info? Thanks!
Unless you lost a lot of oil, you will not need to refill it. There are no oil holes to refill the transmission. If a lot of oil leaked out, the only way to refill it would be to split it apart and refill the bottom half, install a new gasket and put it back together. Unless you lost half a quart or so of the oil, we don't feel there's need for worry about transmission damage.
Goodnight.
I'm having issues with my LTE6234DQ4 Washer / Dryer Combo.
But I must point out that I plan to do the repair myself, in case I have some mechanical knowledge.
The engine starts and makes a noise, but the transmission shaft does not move, so I am assuming it may well be a problem with the clutch or with the engine to transmission coupler. However, it may well be a damaged transmission problem.
So I ask you: is there a way to check that the transmission is damaged without taking the washer / dryer apart?
If there is no way and it is necessary to disarm, then I will proceed to it.
The other question is the following, in case the transmission is damaged: is it preferable to buy the complete transmission or buy the parts?
I will be very grateful for your recommendations.
Thanks,
Rafael E. Llavaneras
I replaced the coupler about a year ago and its been working fine since. Until today. All of a sudden it would not spin but made a loud grinding noise during the spin cycle. Thought it was the coupler again but when I removed it, it seemed the portion that attached to the transmission shaft was lose and wobbly. On further examination it looks like the shaft itself has been ground down and rounded off. The same coupler fit snugly on the pump shaft. New gear box?
verify this by watching the motor coupler during the spin cycle.
I see that "If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin". I noticed that my washing machine (model number 110.24422300) will drain the water but not spin UNLESS I pull the dial knob off and on again, once I do that the washer will start to spin. We replaced the Timer thinking that ours wasn't engaging the second pause but that didn't fix it. We're currently trying to get the 7/16 bolt off from under the agitator cap but it's completely rusted.
These Vids are Great!!.... BUT , everything seems to come off and go right back on so VERY nice & easy, no stripped bolts, sticky springs or bent pieces or stuburn / lost clips.
Ima Sears WrenchMonkey and man I wish all repars went butter like this. But if yous good wid a wrench yous can get indouta in prbly 90 min yous first. After know'n what to expect (an how to deal with what yous din't) you can get it before the sun sets (an hopefully befor the parts store closes).
It took me a whole 2 hrs lol it look very simple in the video but these machines like to fight
I was cleaning recently and saw a huge pool of oil/grease under my Kenmore 11092273100. I am guessing this means a new transmission soon. What else should be ordered while I am making the repair? I am guessing a coupler is a good idea based on the comments.
I have the thin twin whirlpool stacked unit and It spins with water in it while draining, will replacing the transmission fix this.
+David Pesarchick The first 12 rotations of the transmission during the spin cycle should not engage the tub. If it does the neutral drain gear inside the transmission is likely broke.
i have a kenmore 4020090 the agitater works fine and drains but wont spin found alot of oil on the trans its self also on the floor could this be the issue?
The oil on the transmission and the floor will not cause a no-spin issue. If the oil got on the clutch, which is above the transmission, that could cause the clutch to slip and not spin. A little oil looks like a lot when it is spread out all over under the washer. It would take a lot of oil to leak out before it would affect the operation of the transmission. If you are sure nothing is caught in between the tubs and the drive block on the top of the transmission spin tube is not stripped and slipping, we would suspect the clutch is the issue. To stop the leak, replace the transmission. While you have the machine taken apart, consider replacing the clutch.
My washers is grinding during agitation, is there a fix(part replacement) that doesn't require replacing the entire gearbox?
i've seen rebuild kits online
Help...I was taking apart my Kenmore 500 Washing machine and put the transmission aside, in a cardboard box overnight. When I went to go check on it the next day, about a pint of oil had leaked from the little hole on one of the sides. I have not reinstalled the transmission to test it. Is the transmission usable, or does it need to be refilled with oil?
The transmission oil in these machines is very thick so if a little leaks out it is not a big deal. if a lot leaked out the trans will need to be opened up and refilled with this oil: www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Transmission-Oil/350572/3017?TLSID=1943
is there a way to check the transmission before buying it or do i have to just buy and install and hope fpr the best. i already checked the clutch and the rubber thing those are in good shape
We have a 365 day return policy on our parts. If it turns out the transmission isn't the problem, you can return it for a full refund, no questions asked.
i ended up hiring a guy turns out the darn machine had a sock in the pump i was so pissed off i took that darn pump off twice never thought to look in it
I have replaced my transmission with ease thanks to this video. But when I tested it, the machine would slam to a stop when I open the door during the spin cycle and pivot the whole machine. What are the things I could have done wrong? The brake cam was on the opposite side of the clutch spring when I installed it.
put a bit of grease or vasoline on the brake drum( that round piece with the yellow spring at 3:25) rust may have built up on the brake drum and theres too much friction causing the machine to dead stop.
At 1:29 the old transmission shows part # 389228 but the title reads part # 3360629. What is the difference between #389228 and #330629? Thanks.
That is actually the part number for the lower housing of the transmission. Thanks Juan.
If water gets into the gearbox, what causes this?
Part number and link to purchase ?
Looked on your website and still not sure - We have a Kenmore Series 500 (Model 25102, P/N W10560161A). It's the high efficiency version without the tall agitator. Not sure it's the same transmission because I can't find that model number anywhere on your site. Sends me far away from the washing machine. Got the model number off the manual (bought new 12/24/2014).
My transmission comes out about 2 inches and stops. What did I do wrong? I took the tater off.
Thanks so much for this video. I followed it and a week later my washer stop. I found the motor had dropped. The two bolts holding the motor plates fell out and destroyed the motor. So I ordered a new motor. What torque must I apply to the two bolts holding the motor plates?
Hi please help! Ive taken the motor out, the transmission can be turned by hand Anti-clockwise no probs, but when I turn the shaft clockwise it only turns about 1 turn before stopping and cant be turned anymore. Is this normal or is my transmission faulty? thanks Mark
+Mark Thommo Sounds normal to us. Usually the transmission drive shaft can only be turned by hand in the agitate direction.
+RepairClinic.com thank you!! Turned out to only be the coupler.
I have a Kenmore Mod. 110, top loader. The spin function works, however it will not agitate during any of the cycles. The little dog ears have been replaced. There is normal motor noise during the agitation cycle. Do you think I need a new transmission?
Your best bet is to use the repair help section of our website. www.RepairClinic.com/repairhelp - if you enter your model number there you'll have access to symptom, model and part specific repair help. Just so you know, your complete model number includes the numbers after "110." as well and will be needed.
Did your problem turn out to be the transmission ? I have almost the same issues. In fact I think because there are so many different parts in it they don't all fail in the same manner.
@@thundercloud47 I know I'm too late, but if anybody else has this happen, I had the same exact thing, I replaced the agitator dogs, and it still would barely agitate, then I replaced the transmission and it fixed it for me! :D, so if your replace your agitator dogs and it still doesn't agitate as violently as it should (mine barely moved at all) or TLDR:
REPLACING THE TRANSMISSION FIXED IT FOR ME :D
Clutch spring and brake cam - where are those? Also, the agitator bolt is reverse threaded?
+Timetryp The brake cam in in the brake and drive tube. that the transmission shaft fit up into. The 1:50 mark of this video clearly show the clutch and spring.
+RepairClinic.com Thanks.
it looks so easy to pull a fresh clean transmission out, how about a detergent crusty one. not so easy.
True story
There are some parts under the agitator you forgot. they are on the shaft.
Good video but, he never tightened the sheet metal screw on the motor clip.
The best machine, not the new belt drive, it really sucks.
Who is the Narrator??
How the hell did he drop the transmission without taking off the tub nut & clamps off the post??
Hello my Stackable will agitate fine then it will not go to spin to drain to rinse or drain to spin the clothes the dial is clicking. We have now replaced the pump and the clutch any ideas which way to go next? 110.22642100
It sounds like you have bad contacts in the timer. If you hear the timer clicking and it is advancing, the lid switch is probably good. Replacing the timer will most likely fix the problem. The timer for your model is part # 777106: www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Timer/3952955/777106?TLSID=1773. The only way to know for sure the timer is the problem is to use a multi meter and wiring diagram and check for power at the motor. If there is no power when there should be, the timer is the problem. If there is power and the motor will not run, the motor is the problem.
Sears put in 2 rebuilt transmissions that both failed almost immediately. I asked for a new transmission, but they won't put one in. I have lost faith in the quality of the rebuilt parts that Sears uses and the inconvenience of the down time waiting for the next replacement.
+Timetryp You can replace the whole transmission instead of trying to get it rebuilt. www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Transmission/3360629/423?TLSID=1773
+RepairClinic.com Thanks for the reply. Good advice.
Unfortunately FSP has been sending (2021 and 2022) a defective batch of transmissions to México, and technicians had to repair the old ones... Client's confidence almost has been lost...
part number 3360629
I have the exact same washer model. My transmission is leaking oil but working fine. I want to remove the transmission and repair the leak.
Is there a gasket between the top cover and the body of the transmission? Does it have a part number?
thanks i am going to try it