Hi, I enjoy watching your setup videos, I've learned a lot from it and it's almost time for me to set up my audio :) I've learned a lot about REW from you so I'll see how I can handle it. good luck with all your future setups.
I highly recommend SB21SDCN-C000-4. These tweeters are fantastic for the price. The raw response looked better then most tuned tweeters. Extends to 20k with ease. The sound is so crisp and detailed, yet still soft and smooth.
@@johnnyyoung109 How do you like them. Ive never had beryllium. Its seems that people either love em or hate them. My guess is that the ones that hate them, dont have them setup right.
Sorry, I erased my comment but you answered so fast I got a notification on my phone :P My question was at what spl you normally measure but on this video it tells about target 75dB for tweeter and like +10(-15) dB (without IB) from 200Hz downwards. finally my project is almost done and I can start tuning myself 😛
The tune is coming out nice. I'm thinking about changing out my Fi IB3 18s for the OA IB3 18s, do you think it's worth it? Besides double the power handling. Does the OA sound good?
Love you videos learnt alot from them but knob question i see you use different cross overs and crossover points i always thought it it would have to be linkwitz or bessel or butterworth accross the board Big shout out from Trinidad and Tobago
I wish my mid range response looked like yours. I moved my midranges, audio frog gb40, up from the kick panel location to the dash almost exactly like yours. They’re on a pretty similar angle as yours also. I have a different car and I know that it’s gonna be a different response than yours but I have some terrible comb filtering going on exactly between 1k-2k hz. I can see it on REW and I can hear it coming from the right side. Left side is driver side. I have a dash mat coming and I hope it will tame it some. I experimented with a blanket on the dash and it seemed to get rid of some of it. Do you have any tips on how I can smooth out the comb filtering? I don’t have much room left to angle the speakers more away from the windshield.
Is It true that the gb40 start beaming at 2khz ? I’ve frequently bought the gb25 to put them in the a pillars and avoid most reflections from the windshield. Why did you go with the gb 40? From what I’ve seen the only reason for the gb40 is the lower crossoverpoint if you want to send it full tilt . But according to Erin’s car audio they both can and should be crossed at about 250 to 200 hz. The GB25 is also so small that it can easily fit in any a pillar. It starts beaming at around 3,5 kHz and therefore can be easily crossed with almost any tweeter. Maybe a pillar installation would be an option 🤔but the gb40 are possibly to big for the pillars it might be to intrusive. I haven’t measured the little gb25s yet in my pillars yet so it’s only a suggestion if nobody else has a solution for your problem. You mentioned that you can hear the filtering so you can exclude a measurement error 100%? Otherwise the only thing I can imagine you can do is to reduce the reflections even more by angeling as far as you can. Put soft materials on surfaces which cause the reflections. And what I’ve seen from a factory B&O System in the midbase region the sound was directed through a kind of funnel. Maybe you can funnel the sound a bit.
@@Niclas0299 Yes any 4” speaker is going to start to beam around 2k hz from my understanding. I went with the gb40 because Andy says they can be crossed at 110hz on a 12db slope. I crossed them at 150hz on a 24db slope. I have door mounted midbasses which produces a deep null at 200hz in my car so I needed something that would play lower than 200hz. But now I have problems on the other end. I need to cross the gb40’s lower on the top end to get rid of the comb filtering but I use gb10 tweeters mounted in the sail panel and they can’t reach that low. I could use the gb15’s but I don’t think they’ll fit and they’re too expensive to just play around with. If the dash mat doesn’t fix the comb filtering I may go with the gb25’s in a pillar pods and just live with the null at 200hz. Everything in car audio is a trade off.
@@19rc69 I understand): . I have not tested the gb15s neither did I test the GB10s. But of course you won’t cross that tweeter at 2k or below. I’ve driven around with a 2 way for a year and always had the problem of a gap between tweeter and midbase. Then I bought a 28mm tweeter with a fs of 730. Mechanically they can handle those frequency’s but the efficiency was decreasing the lower they played. I choose a Crossover point of 1500 and yeah they played those frequencys easily but integrating into my efficient midbase was the problem. So you might have the same problems with the gb15s.
Hi, I enjoy watching your setup videos, I've learned a lot from it and it's almost time for me to set up my audio :) I've learned a lot about REW from you so I'll see how I can handle it. good luck with all your future setups.
Nice video. 👍
I highly recommend SB21SDCN-C000-4. These tweeters are fantastic for the price. The raw response looked better then most tuned tweeters. Extends to 20k with ease. The sound is so crisp and detailed, yet still soft and smooth.
I have the SB Acoustics SB29BNC-C000-4 29mm Beryllium dome tweeter w/grille
@@johnnyyoung109 How do you like them. Ive never had beryllium. Its seems that people either love em or hate them. My guess is that the ones that hate them, dont have them setup right.
Great video as always. Just a friendy tip of advise....try not to listen to very high volumes. It may seem OK now but in 10 years you'll regret it 😉
Sorry, I erased my comment but you answered so fast I got a notification on my phone :P
My question was at what spl you normally measure but on this video it tells about target 75dB for tweeter and like +10(-15) dB (without IB) from 200Hz downwards.
finally my project is almost done and I can start tuning myself 😛
You need to measure about 20-30dB above the floor noise.
What do you have cross overs set at for this 3 way set now
Acoustical is 80-180-2.2k if I remember correctly.
The tune is coming out nice.
I'm thinking about changing out my Fi IB3 18s for the OA IB3 18s, do you think it's worth it? Besides double the power handling. Does the OA sound good?
It sounds great 😎 I would change it only if you have sufficient power to drive the OA.
Love you videos learnt alot from them but knob question i see you use different cross overs and crossover points i always thought it it would have to be linkwitz or bessel or butterworth accross the board
Big shout out from Trinidad and Tobago
I wish my mid range response looked like yours. I moved my midranges, audio frog gb40, up from the kick panel location to the dash almost exactly like yours. They’re on a pretty similar angle as yours also. I have a different car and I know that it’s gonna be a different response than yours but I have some terrible comb filtering going on exactly between 1k-2k hz. I can see it on REW and I can hear it coming from the right side. Left side is driver side.
I have a dash mat coming and I hope it will tame it some. I experimented with a blanket on the dash and it seemed to get rid of some of it. Do you have any tips on how I can smooth out the comb filtering? I don’t have much room left to angle the speakers more away from the windshield.
Is It true that the gb40 start beaming at 2khz ? I’ve frequently bought the gb25 to put them in the a pillars and avoid most reflections from the windshield. Why did you go with the gb 40? From what I’ve seen the only reason for the gb40 is the lower crossoverpoint if you want to send it full tilt . But according to Erin’s car audio they both can and should be crossed at about 250 to 200 hz. The GB25 is also so small that it can easily fit in any a pillar. It starts beaming at around 3,5 kHz and therefore can be easily crossed with almost any tweeter. Maybe a pillar installation would be an option 🤔but the gb40 are possibly to big for the pillars it might be to intrusive. I haven’t measured the little gb25s yet in my pillars yet so it’s only a suggestion if nobody else has a solution for your problem. You mentioned that you can hear the filtering so you can exclude a measurement error 100%? Otherwise the only thing I can imagine you can do is to reduce the reflections even more by angeling as far as you can. Put soft materials on surfaces which cause the reflections. And what I’ve seen from a factory B&O System in the midbase region the sound was directed through a kind of funnel. Maybe you can funnel the sound a bit.
@@Niclas0299 Yes any 4” speaker is going to start to beam around 2k hz from my understanding. I went with the gb40 because Andy says they can be crossed at 110hz on a 12db slope. I crossed them at 150hz on a 24db slope. I have door mounted midbasses which produces a deep null at 200hz in my car so I needed something that would play lower than 200hz.
But now I have problems on the other end. I need to cross the gb40’s lower on the top end to get rid of the comb filtering but I use gb10 tweeters mounted in the sail panel and they can’t reach that low. I could use the gb15’s but I don’t think they’ll fit and they’re too expensive to just play around with. If the dash mat doesn’t fix the comb filtering I may go with the gb25’s in a pillar pods and just live with the null at 200hz. Everything in car audio is a trade off.
@@19rc69 I understand): . I have not tested the gb15s neither did I test the GB10s. But of course you won’t cross that tweeter at 2k or below. I’ve driven around with a 2 way for a year and always had the problem of a gap between tweeter and midbase. Then I bought a 28mm tweeter with a fs of 730. Mechanically they can handle those frequency’s but the efficiency was decreasing the lower they played. I choose a Crossover point of 1500 and yeah they played those frequencys easily but integrating into my efficient midbase was the problem. So you might have the same problems with the gb15s.
Can we get a demo
I personally don't see the point of demos.. Best would be to sit in the car and listen.
have you ever tried to make system relatviely listenable for all seats ? and how can it be done ?
No, haven't tried it yet, but will try in the future.
Hi not sure where in UK are you but will you consider tuning other cars for a fee?
Sure, find me on FB or email rawcaraudiotuning@gmail.com
You are in Manchester area..Im in Kent...to far to drive for a tune..looks like I will have to try myself then.😢
brother, do you have video on two seat tuning guide?🙏😁
No, and probably won't have one.
Is this with the Taramps on the IB3?
Yep😎
Muy buen trabajo el que haces de verdad. Solo quisiera saber cómo haces para cargar en el REW las curvas de referencia
Drag and drop from Jazzi's tuning companion.