@@dortek882 So, maybe I should have added another secret that pattern companies don't want us to know: There is no one "right way." to do something (well, except for needing to press as we sew...). If it works for you and gets a great result, then that's the right way for you. One thing I love about the sewing community is that we share our tips and adapt for what works for us.
I don’t know how to draft my own patterns and I’m getting back into sewing after a couple of decades break. I’m retired now and I now have time to sew. I’m wanting to get out of the knit pants and tops clothes. I prefer conservative dresses like my Mennonite friends wear. 😊
@@ironrose888 I retired a year and a half ago, so that's why I finally have more time to sew, too! I don't "dress plain" (in the Mennonite sense...) but I do lean toward classic/timeless styles that are conservative. So, you'll see me draft vintage patterns that you might like for your wardrobe, too.
Tell me about it! Same in Nga. My husband would say the tailor just needs to look at you and he is able to replicate something to fit you! I'm learning to do the free hand style as it literally seems stress less - as with the BIG 4, there is cutting of pattern sheets, FBA or SBA, waist lengthening or shortening etc. I'm too tired to think of other things required - just learning formulas now and getting to know what fits who and to rembr the shoulder length might in most cases be bodice length
Patterns are just a lazy way brought to you by people who want to sell something to get rich. Now nothing wrong if you want to give them your own money. But in the old days in America we did not have pattern comps People just got use to sewing. When i was young i worked in the military base grocery store they had a number system for everything. When bananas came up i typed it in the number n bingo it showed the price. Point is i remembered thousands of them. Had i had them in a book to go by exp: pattern Id use that. Not the lazy way. After you make a size 18 pattern a few times it was in your head. And now you know your welcomed
I learned to sew without patterns from a lady from El Salvador who didn't speak English. I am so grateful for her teaching me. Patterns are a lot of work to make fit.
My grandma sewed by eye or drafted on literally anything. Rarely bough a pattern. usually a Vogue. But modern patterns are all the same. Get the pattermaking for fashion design 4th edition on is ideal and draft away. Make a block and go. If flat patterning is your jam, it all u will need. You can look at a garments style lines and copy it.
I usually end up doing a preliminary run with inferior/cheap fabric to find out the fit so I know where to alter before cutting the real fabric I plan to use.
Yes! It wasn't until I was well into my 30s and joined a sewing circle that I even knew that I should have been doing practice garments (of course, this was pre-WWW and all of the stuff we can now learn online with a push of a button on our phones...when we thought having a 2400 dialup modem to access the university's mainframe was uh-maze-ing! *laugh*).
As a teenager, I remember coming across patterns at my grandparent's house that my great grandmother (she was born in the 1880s) had made out newspapers. And they would say things like, "sleeve," or "bodice." At the time I had no understanding that those were her basic blocks that she used to create an entire wardrobe. (As an aside, I remember laying my cutting board out on the living room floor and pinning the patterns--straight out of the envelope--onto my fabric and then cutting them out. That was many, many years ago and the floor has somehow gotten further down than I remember it being! 🤣 )
YES. Those wonderful ancestors of ours understood pleating and draping. I was surprised to discover that the ornate dresses of the 1900s were often pieces: multi-layered skirt, fitted bodice with added ruffles, etc., and detachable forearm sleeves.
When I first started hoarding, I mean, "collecting" vintage patterns, I was surprised by how many patterns there were for just the design elements that could be temporarily added to clothing to change the entire look. I'm pretty sure this was especially popular during the WWII era when fabric was rationed.
Rather than being body shaming or toxic, it seems to be that having a simpler "standard" made it easier for pattern companies. In the Simplicity Sewing Book of 1969 there are nine categories of pattern types/sizes for women: Girl, Chubbie [no shame], Young Junior/Teen, Junior Petite, Junior, Miss Petite, Miss, Half Size, and Woman. Of those, maybe four correspond to today's range of patterns. Most patterns still assume a fair bit of knowledge about sewing, and not all sewists had the advantage of learning to sew in junior high--we had to hand baste and fit our garments before actually sewing them. True vintage patterns from the 1930s or 1940s often had no instructions included, so it was up to the sewist to know how garments were put together. 🙂
Oh! I interpreted Evelyn's comment to mean that body shaming and the toxic messaging sent by our culture in general, not from the pattern companies themselves and responded from that POV. I agree with everything you are saying in your comment.
@@themodernretrowoman honestly, I was pretty confident in terms of my body shape when I realized I was going to have to sew my own clothes to get natural fibers in something that fit. I've been interested for probably a year, and my brother even got me an Indi plus size pattern for Christmas. But when it came in and I was sifting through the instructions, I wound up going to their website because I wasnt understanding what I needed to do with the size, to be told that I would have to grade the pattern. I've seen exactly 2 or 3 things that I can think of. All in a 9 week sewing class in the 8th grade that did not get rid of my fear of sewing machines. Maybe that isn't daunting to people that are experienced, but I just made my first mockup a year later on a much cheaper pattern to replace. And am generally a lot more unconfident about my body now. They would probably do well by giving a few ideas for how to grade patterns for common adjustments.
I agree that a lot of assumptions are made that people will just magically know how to make adult. It used to be that the major companies would publish a sewing book that could be used as a reference guide when using their patterns. Unfortunately, that seems to have gone by the wayside and I think your experience is the norm rather than the exception these days. 😢
I started historic costuming over 20 years ago and rapidly fell in love with draughting systems, it looks like the one you're using is coupe jour (or similar) I started collecting them and although I have discalculia I can easily use all the systems I've come across. I just love making my own patterns, probably more than sewing
@@DawnLowery-or8se some of the systems use units rather than body measurements, i really don't understand that maths is hard but i seem to be able to deal with the systems!
I am thrilled to have found your channel. My mother used the Lutterloh system when I was growing up in the 1950s. Now I have my own kit and love using it. My Lutterloh patterns consistently give me better results than commercial ones and as I am learning, the process gets easier. Thank you for this interesting video.🌷
I totally have a whole binder full of that French pattern system. I think my 95 year old Aunt gave it to me about 30 years ago. I have made several patterns from it. In fact, I used the basic blocks to come up with my own designs. I actually didn’t know where the system came from and never heard anyone talk about it before. Thanks so much for your video. 🥰
@@lighthseskr I don’t know. My great aunt gave it to me years ago. I don’t have a clue where you can buy these things. I’ve hung on to my pattern binder like gold for years now.
@@Chickasawndngirlif you ever felt like scanning the pages and selling the digital copies, I'm sure there's plenty of us that would be interested in buying a copy. You're so lucky it was passed down to you❤
How did RUclips know I was thinking of making a slip for my linen dress 😳 I'll be honest as a person who has made costumes for a living. Sometimes it was easier to have a paper pattern if it was close enough to the actor's measurements and hack in accuracy. I prefer draping over flat patterning as well. Some people are the opposite. But a day or two for draping or patterning verses cutting out a pattern is what it boils down to! Have used one of their repos and it definitely is different. Some are adapted to our modern bodies. Especially if you are a costume historian that is drafting a pattern from an original. So it is good to be aware of that. We are also so used to how seams and closures are today that it's hard for some to know unless they had studied the time period. I have a couple of those crazy systems. One from the 90's and the other one from the 70's. Haven't had time to play so super helpful video!
You did have me chuckling: I remember crafting 1st a gym bag then an A line jumper 🤮 in jr hi. I celebrated my 70th birthday this month, so yes, cheerfully a Crone. I applaud you for sharing your journey & knowledge.
Yep, also in my 70s. First thing I sewed was a raglan sleeve blouse. I put the sleeves in wrong FOUR times. There were only 2 ways, right way and wrong way, so I did it the wrong way four times in a row!
I did a tailoring course where I learned to take measurements then design the dress, cut and sew it. The problem ow is that fabric stores are closing down and its really difficult to find anything i want to wear! Commercial patterns waste far too much fabric.
In my No. California community, my only options for fabric stores are a small quilt shop (their fabrics are gorgeous but not really geared toward clothing) and a national chain that basically caters to costuming and fleece "fabric." I really miss having fashion fabric stores nearby. Thank goodness for online stores!
In the 80's when I learned to sew their were so many options to buy fabric. Lots of fabric stores in every town, Sears, Walmart, Steadmans....It was glorious.
A great video about a great system BUT scaling up a pattern is one thing; drafting it is another. I thought you would be describing creating the pattern piece from measurements.
I understand what you are saying about the difference and I don't disagree. The patterns are described as "draft-at-home" and so I was working off of that. That said, as a retired educational psychologist, I think it's a good stepping stone for those that may be intimidated by creating pattern pieces from measurements. Now that I've finished the slip project (finally!), I will be exploring the Haslam system which is a true vintage drafting system that you thought I'd be talking about in this video. So, don't give up on me just yet ❤️
I am reteaching myself to sew. This is the info I wanted. I was drafting payterns for some simple bags, rolls and clutches last night and havimg fun with simple ideas and wishing I could do the same for clothing. Thank you!!
I love that you have the same take on these pattern companies that I have. I don't like to even try to use a purchased pattern except for help with the style. I don't sew vintage garments, but I do sew a lot of clothing for my own personal wear. I often find that available purchased patterns do not hold current styles or simplistic patterns for simple garments like blouses, T-shirts, and tank tops. If they do, they often have design ideas that would have to be back walked to get to the simpler lines and style. I will have to watch this again to really get an idea of the tool you are using. I now have blocks for a basic woven blouse/shirt, knit tops, and bottoms for most styles and fabrics. I also have designed my own yoga wear, both pants, capris and bras. I just finished a moto jacket in a style that I found from a catalog. I do also advocate that using ready-made garments is a great way to get styles and fit for pattern making. I completely believe that to really have clothing that fits and is flattering, designing and making our own patterns is a must at least until you have a block to grade these patterns with. I would much rather work on a pattern that has most of my measurements already figured out. And that is what I did with this moto jacket, so now I also have that fitted perfected jacket pattern as well. Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge. It is so refreshing to hear that you have the same issues with store bought patterns that I have found.
I agree that the commercial patterns have really simplified lines and style features. In addition, they "cheat" the fit issue by creating patterns designed for knits. I may be mistaken but I think they are trying to cater to beginners and those that say they don't have time to sew. Unfortunately, I also think that their approach turns off a lot of beginning sewists because their garment doesn't turn out the way they hoped it would. You said: I don't like to even try to use a purchased pattern except for help with the style. Back when I was taking my classes, my professors knew that I wasn't going to switch careers and become a fashion designer like my classmates so they didn't require me to design garments from scratch. Instead, I would find a vintage pattern from their archive and they taught me how to use the pattern to replicate/update the style lines and design features. I really appreciated that they did that for me and I'm looking forward to doing the same thing as I rebuild my non-jeans and knitted tops wardrobe!
Lutterloh company does this exact method today with miniature patterns you scale up per your measurements. Not good for those who rely on printed instructions, though!
Yes, but the only vintage Lutterloh patterns I've been able to find are certain German uniforms from WWII that I don't even want to name 😬 Since it's been around for so long, I'm surprised I can't find the older notebooks/packets. But, you're correct about the printed instructions situation. My latest video showcases all of the mistakes I made in making the slip! Edited to add: And I just did a search for vintage Lutterloh patterns and found a whole bunch! Maybe I was using the wrong search terms before!!
I remember when I could buy really inexpensive muslin to use to make sample garments. Now, just finding ANY fabric I'd even want to wear is almost impossible! I guess it's good people are getting back into quilting and crafting? 🤔 Even that was dying before COVID. When I was about 12 we learned to find patterns that fit (and adjusted them) with the styles we liked, i.e., long sleeves, bell sleeves, gussets, etc., and then just assembled the pieces we perfected to make into a garment we wanted. No need to buy more patterns once we had a sleeve that fit, bust that fit, darts that fit, etc. I have a Lutterloh system that I just never go the hang of. But I do have dress forms and find it easier to drape and fit on them. Thank you for doing these videos! 😘
My first time on your channel and I am happy to be here. You are wonderful to listen to and I enjoy your humour. I’m just beginning your instructions now. Great anticipation ….I’m so ready to learn your techniques and I have onhand all the supplies
My mom had pattern drafting stuff when i was growing up .(her unfinished college degree was home economics emphasis dressmaking...)but btween actual homemaking with 5 kids and dad working 3 jobs and working on his degree and then mom getting a job once the youngest was in school...well...using patterns was all I learned.
I love aprons and i have a good sized collection of vintage patterns not repo's. But i have a problem, I can't just make it from the pattern I have to modify, I like to make them reversable, pockets have to be larger, longer ties and the list goes on. I start with tracing the pattern then the thought process begins and that can take a long time, but I love it. The true vintage apron patterns don't come with multiple sizes, sometimes you can't find the size you would like and they need to be adjusted. Thank you for this tutorial and your apron tutorial.
I appreciate this style of drafting. There is a point though, about why modern vintage rerun patterns are not drafted exactly to the original. Women of today, regardless of body shape do not wear the foundation garments or underwear of previous ‘vintage’ generations. Our underwear is much less form shaping and fitting than the under garment s of those decades. The newer patterns are ‘meant’ to work with our more relaxed shaped underwear. Not that is works that well either. Thank you for this. It was very informative.
Loved the video! I’m getting ready to make a slip from an actual vintage pattern. I look forward to learning the drafting that you showed. I’m not an expert so I appreciate being able to watch before I start cutting. I’ll be watching for the next video!
I learned sewing and altering from my mother, grandmother and great grandmother. I often had to alter patterns for myself and started using bits and pieces from multiple patterns to create my own designs. I eventually started making heirloom clothes for the infants and children in my Kure and discovered children’s patterns really need altering as children come in so many shapes and sizes! Years later I found a book on pattern making and taught myself to make patterns. Really comes in handy now that I’m addicted to making vintage doll clothes from the 40s and 50s. An added be if it is that dolls don’t wiggle! This video is great!
I am absolutely fascinated by this! and I completely agree with you with the Big 4 patterns. according to the envelope, I'm a size 16. but when I measure the patterns I'm actually a size 10. that is quite a discrepancy. and to top it off, that size 10 then has tiny armholes. I live alone so I need to find somebody to help me get my measurements. I have a few drafting textbooks but I'm always interested in figuring out new methods
Over the past few years I have begun to learn pattern drafting (for my own use), using the measurements to make bodice, skirt and pants slopers. I was amazed at how simple the process was and bravely made some garments which ended up fitting pretty well. (Yes the fitting especially for pants can be time consuming, but worth it for the end results) It is fair to say I am more of a standard size person, but like you I find the commercial patterns add more ease than I would like making my finished garment one that won't get much wear. Plus a pattern is very costly now (I started sewing in 1963 when patterns were very inexpensive), so I expect alot for my money! This early fall I ordered the Lutterloh system mainly because I don't want to spend the time designing my own clothes, and hope I can make any fit adjustments needed to a self-drafted pattern because of the knowledge gained from making up slopers. Hopefully this will all work out and am now deciding which pattern to start with first! Thank you for a well presented tutorial and appreciate your time and thoughtful approach to this topic.
I've also run into the preschooler huge size problems with my granddaughter who lives thousands of miles away. It's taken about 16 months for her to grow into the outfits, even though I used her measurements against the pattern measurements.
Back in the late 60 or early 70, all the pattern companies came out with something called "New Sizing" which put them all on the same page so to speak. If your size is Misses 12 then you could be assured regardless or which company pattern you bought, they would all fit the same. Next, some of the patterns included an adjustment for petites in the tissue pattern. Needless to say, it was a godsend.
@@kathygann7632 You can't go by the "size", you really must look at the measurements and get the size closest to your own measurements. It's always been that way, no matter what sizing system is used.
You’ve inspired me to research pattern drafting courses in local colleges. For now I do have a dress form (with my measurements) that I fit/adjust my toiles on. Very helpful to know that alternative drafting methods are available. Thankyou ❤
I really enjoyed this video! I am very eager to adapt/ design patterns to really fit and flatter the person.! I look forward to more videos and your insights! Thank you!
I used to make "simple things", got a book in my early teens, "clothes and stuff you can sew yourself" where a lot of patterns were simple kimonostyle shirts where you lay down on the fabric and draw a line 10-15 cm outside the body, use a plate to draw a good hole for the neck. Other things had plaits and such to make it easy to fit (70ies ...), almost everything was straight pieces. Learned how to make skirts from circular segments, and I have no problem with arithmdtics or geometry, shaped clothing on barbie dolls, made a lot of doll's clothes with or without a pattern. I can adjust a readymade pattern for me, sort of, but really making them ... nah ... kniting is another thing, I always try to figure out how a knitted garment is made when I see it, and I can transform my measures to patterns and so on, wish I had that with fabric, always a bit scared to make the leap.
I want/desire/yearn to make my own clothes. My mother sewed her own clothes, she created my wedding dress. I wish I had been a better daughter and begged her to teach me everything she knew, too late now
Just so you know, I have a rule that you're not allowed to "should" all over yourself around here. ❤️. Okay, now that I have that out of the way, my grandmother and great-grandmother were the ones who instilled my love of sewing but they passed away when I was still quite young. But, I like to think that they are still guiding me as I learn and develop my sewing skills. They may not be here to physically teach me, but their spirits are still with me. The same is true for you as you satisfy that yearning to make your own clothes.
I really want to learn how to draft my own patterns. You should create a book to accompany your tutorials! Also, I love your pink cutting mat. Where could I purchase one like it? It would match my sewing room decor perfectly! Thanks for sharing.❤️
Thank you for your kind words! Actually, I do create "sewing guides" or "cheat sheets" for my tutorials. You can find the one that goes with the slip project at modernretrowoman-com.ck.page/products/sewing-guide-mrs-depews-1950s-slip . Also, I bought my cutting mat at JoAnn's. I just looked on Amazon to see if you could get it there, but it seems they had every color but pink. 🤔
Hi. I just watched the first one of your videos. I really would like to converse with you on this subject. Briefly, I made my 1st 2 piece dress for 4 H when I was 9. My Aunt helped me. I wore it to school and church proudly. About 18 months later someone let me choose a pattern and material and a zipper. I sware I dont remember much of that process. I know Mama had to help me understand the instructions. I did not have other help. I ended up with the cutest hiphugger with a flared skirt, sleeveless with a back zip and a rolled collar. It was a Simplicity pattern.` Oh yes it was orange with mod flowers. I wore it 2 years until I outgrew it. Anyway I kept sewing regulary. My older cousin gave me pointers until she moved just as I started HS. I made all my clothes for at least another 25 years and sewed some for others. I also made my wedding dress in 1974. I used our old treddle machine in the dorm room to sew it.Then my world crumbled. My husband got very sick. I had my hands full. I no longer had time to sew. He declined 10 or 12 years and passed away. After several years I met and eventually remarried. He had MS. I cared for him the best I could. Still no time for sewing. He passed 6,5 years ago. I have been vegetating. Due to numerous health problems I have become a sack of potatoes. I am sure I am taller than you and larger too. I do have narrow shoulders as you do. I dont have a dress form. I've never made a pattern. I had never heard of blocks or sloper until the last few months. I have bought 2 patterns and a couple hundred dollars of fabric. I've been online watching and seeking design ideas. I bought 2 used machines and had them cleaned and repaired. I dont even have any well fitting clothes that I would cut apart. I live alone and do not have anyone to help with measurements. I know this is rediculous. I have fond a style of Chinese skirt I would love to make. I can not find it even near my size. But with some direction, maybe I could figure it out. Would you be interested in helping me with this endeavour. I have not sewn in 30 years (I am 69). Thanks.
I’m delighted to hear that you have taken up sewing again! Alas, I struggle to find time for my own sewing so I am unable to work with anyone individually. However, I encourage you to find your local American Sewing Guild chapter and reach out to them. Of course I think you should join them but they may be able to recommend someone who can guide you through your project.
I am fascinated by this process. I have drafted hundreds of patterns using every method from the Eyeball & Pray technique to Winifred Aldrich’s Metric Pattern Cutting, but this is news to me. Where does one learn more about this amazing method? I’m thinking about the space I could save by transposing my archived original designs into this format.
While I fully understand the role of slips , full or half, they are usually of synthetic fabric. With the wind we have here at times in Australia that equals a ton of static electricity and if the outer garment is or has synthetic that is a ton of cling not fling. With daily temperatures in summer that are 90 to 100 plus degrees Fahrenheit, or even in the 80's, that is an extra layer of fabric that wont breathe as a rule so one will be looking at heat stress, heat stroke or worse, death. Maybe the recommendation of slip wearing, and I agree about what it does, should also come with a temperature guide. It was a practice developed in a way different climate. We need more fabrics that will breathe and allow air through.
Preach, I just.turned 60 and still just wear jogging pants and t.shirts and sundresses. I love the 60s and 70s boho styles and bought sewing machine and took I class so far but want to learn how to make clothes I like to fit me. Any suggestions appreciated.
I just found your channel and love your explanation! I purchased the lutterloh system because the French method scared me. I don’t know what ease a sloper or a block is…I know nothing!
I am interested in your drafting system. Where do you find the miniature of pattern pieces, and numbers to enlarge the pieces? Think that this makes so much sense for retro and modern patterns .
Sorry about the delay in replying. I was up to my eyeballs trying to finish my most recent video. Anywho, to answer your question: The patterns that I use come from Mrs. Depew on Etsy. There is a link to the slip pattern I used in the description box. Each pattern has the proportional tape that you use to enlarge the pattern according to your measurements.
Bodies have not changed from the past: if you walk into any used clothing store, (thrift store, goodwill, upscale resale) you will find an abundance of clothing in smaller, thinner sizes, in better shape than in larger sizes. Why? Because when you have clothes that fit well you wear them out to the point that they are not suitable for resale or you never get rid of them. If it has lasted through the ages it’s probably because it got little to no ware to begin with; its original owner was probably an adolescent that outgrew it fairly quickly. Yes, obesity is way more common now but it also existed all through history and so has a preference for the thin
I suspect that you and I are close to the same age, and I remember being told that 'girls can't do math'. I bought into it and believed that I just didn't have the aptitude for it. I have gone back to school and had to take a math class last year, and I discovered that I love math. I would tell my high school math teacher off, but he's too old to hear very well now. I have some patterns from Mrs. Depew that I love. Watching you draft the pattern helped demystify it for me. Thank you!
I remember my aunt, who taught for a while in a vo-tech high school in the 1970s, had to adjust the math problems. When she used the word problems as originally written (pipes expanding or shrinking with temperature changes), her girl students, who had been taught this mindset, would complain about the problems but, when she converted the same problem into fabric shrinking or stretching, they were able to solve it. It was presented to us as a cautionary tale that it is the teacher's responsibility to find a language/presentation that the students understand.
I wonder if those design systems worked for others back then or if it was like nowadays where they were still originally drafted for the ideal body shape. (Today's pattern books telling me that's a 5'6" woman with a B-cup, tiny waist, and moderate hips. Just like pattern drafting books from the late 1800s and early 1900s cater to, despite the fact that people from back then we're just as varied in size as we are today. Survivorship bias in museum pieces and left over vintage finds being what colours people's beliefs that they weren't.) Personally I find it easier drafting patterns from scratch with all my proper measurements, rather than trusting someone's pattern making system will work for me. But I think the idea of these systems is really interesting.
Before multi-sized patterns, companies offered a greater variety in sizing--For instance, “half size” made for women like me who is under 5'4" and have a "well blessed" bosom. However, based on my reading from my collection of vintage sewing books, I think there was a similar expectation that you'd take the pattern and make adjustments. I agree that drafting the patterns from scratch is the easiest but I think of this system as kind of a "gateway" to gaining confidence.
After the slip project, we'll start on making a block so that we can use the Haslam method of pattern drafting. I really think that between the Haslam method and the vintage French method that I show in this video, you'll be pleased with how you'll be able to draft your own patterns.
Sorry. I realized that I put it way at the bottom of the description box and it was hard to find. I've moved it up but here is the info: ►Mrs. Depew Vintage 1950s Slip Pattern #7314 (Etsy): tidd.ly/3OIuLta
My issue with pattern companies is that they never indicate the cup size on patterns. Most are sized for b cups. Those of us with larger cups have to adjust the pattern. Otherwise the neck is too wide, they should add the upper bust measurment so people know going in.
To everyone who wants to learn pattern drafting but are not interested in vintage styles: watching these videos may help you learn the principles of how to modify a pattern to fit you correctly. Then you can use these principles to modify patterns for more modern styles. I watched a few videos on pattern drafting, and that did help me modify commercial patterns to fit me better. Learn about ease, measuring pattern pieces themselves, and how together, the pieces will go around your body, so you can know how to modify each piece for fitting you when sewn together.
I actually have the original system. I’d have to dig it out, but I’m sure it comes with a booklet on how to use it. I’ll have to build up the gumption to try it out.
Sooo....is it Seamstress or Sewists ? I have sewn for 60 years....can sew just about anything/everything..... Love repurposing/revamping/remaking..... Used clothing is cheap or free ! 💖💖😁
I agree that her videos are very informative (and why I encourage people to go watch her video on the difference between authentic and reproduced vintage patterns in my video). She is one of my favorites and helped me understand why the reproductions weren’t turning out the same as my vintage patterns were ❤❤
Hello I throughly enjoyed your video. I didn't see where you mentioned where one can purchase the French System you were using, do you teach classes using this system? Thank you in advance.
Thank you for your kind words! The tape measure is included with the individual patterns that I buy from Mrs. Depew, so you don’t buy a system, per se. I do not teach classes on how to use this system other than plans to continue to make RUclips videos taking everyone along for the ride as I make various garments. ❤️
Great question! Eventually, yes. But I haven't finished making the slip, yet, so I haven't made the "cheat sheet" for the slip project that members at the Elegance Circle will receive. That said, if you want to know more about the draft-at-home system itself, Mrs. Depew has a great FAQ about it that you can find here: mrsdepew.com/draft-at-home-faq
I don’t understand that guide you used. Is that something you have to use with a pattern or do you make your own patter? I am always making adjustments when I sew-been a few years since I last did a project-but love to learn more
You are talking about the mini-pattern and the ruler, correct? Basically, you are enlarging the mini-pattern using the "ruler" thingy to approximate your size. It won't be a perfect fit- you'll still need to make adjustments--but I think it's closer than the commercial patterns.
@@gloriab7960 You buy it. For example, here is the link in my description for the slip pattern I used in this video: Mrs. Depew Vintage 1950s Slip Pattern #7314 (Etsy): tidd.ly/3OIuLta. There are several vendors on Etsy that sell them. Sorry I didn't make that more clear! ❤
Where did the tape measure come from? Was it printed from the computer, and what about the little round measuring pattern come from? Where can it be ordered?
The tape measure is included in the pattern that you download and print. You can order the slip pattern I'm using in this video here: ►Mrs. Depew Vintage 1950s Slip Pattern #7314 (Etsy): tidd.ly/3OIuLta
The patterns that I buy from Mrs Depew all have the tape measure included. So, if you want to follow along, you just need to use same pattern that I'm using (and I'll always include the link to the pattern in the description).
Sorry. It seems I buried the link to the pattern at the very bottom of the description box so it wasn't easy to find. Here is the info: Mrs. Depew Vintage 1950s Slip Pattern #7314 (Etsy): tidd.ly/3OIuLta
It seems like every product in our country has fallen into the same process. The bigger they become the less personal it becomes. This applies to everything from sewing to government. Furniture,,,you name it. You Have to learn old ways,,,if they haven't succeeded in blocking that information and you can find it. If you find someone that actually teaches this...watch it over and over and absorb like a sponge.
This is the first video of yours that I've seen. I don't need to watch how you sew to know that you're an expert sewer. You clearly know what you're talking about - and more importantly for yt, how to talk about it. I'm subscribing for that. I've sewn since I was a child and so did my mother. I've only tweeked patterns in the past or sewn basic shapes for draping like a pirate shirt. I have one minor constructive criticism for you. Have more confidence in your presentation. I think you're writing out every word that you want to say, probably in case you forget something. You won't, you know what's needed. Video allows you to rerecord a section and edit out what you don't want. Have a practice with index cards using single word bullet points for running order. Then you can let yourself speak more smoothly. I know you can. Onwards and upwards. Xx
Thank you for your very kind words. ❤️Ironically, I started using a script when I received feedback that I should use one! 🤣. But, truthfully, I am a little self conscious because I had speech issues when I was a child and I am always amazed that I went into a career where I was leading workshops on how to teach college to rooms full of professors. ❤️
Lol. You do what's best for you. The hesitancy only suggests following the script, no indication of you having had to work on speech issues. Your practice has paid you well.
I'm not sure if the system itself is a knock off or not. My guess is that other companies saw how successful it was and created their own version. The patterns that I use are from Mrs. Depew and originated in France (were originally in French).
Having your own dress form is totally cheating and you don’t give an alternative. I’m not afraid of the math. I can add and subtract. It’s measuring. I can’t measure my leg length correctly when I hav to bend down to see the number. The number becomes much shorter. I can’t pin the depth of a wrinkle on my back by myself. And don’t tell me to get a friend to help me or my husband, (what husband?) or ‘whatever’. The best I can hope for is the UPS guy. And that puts me in the same boat with building my own dress form. That’s why as a size 18/20 designer dreamer I live in knit slacks and t-shirt hell.
I totally agree it's cheating! Even with a husband, I have to do my own measurements (I love him and am grateful for him, but measuring is not even close to his forte' despite being a professional sculptor) so I understand your frustration (although it does sound like an intriguing pickup line for the UPS guy.... )Your arguments are exactly why I made my own dress form (I talk about it in my video about making the dress form). Is it perfect? Absolutely not. In fact, I had to take a bunch of the stuffing out yesterday because I realized it was several inches off. That said, I'm working on videos for the Haslam System of Dresscutting and I'm hoping to rely less on my dress form once I get the basic block/foundation/sloper made. And, it's going to require that I figure out how to deal with some of the issues you've described so, hopefully, together, we all can figure out how to make it work for us so that we can get out of knit slacks and t-shirt hell. ❤️
Why can't you use a rod that telescopes out or a tape that drops to the length you want and then measure that rod or tape? That is how I measure length without bending over.
@@reginafetty6374 Do you drop the tape so that the #1 is at the floor and then you have the length (number) up where you can read it? Ingenious! Thanks Regenia 🥰, Beth
This "French system" immediately evoked systems like Lutterloh. And you mention it yourself in the video. My problem is the use of the word "drafting". This is a scaled pattern; the company did the math. You're just aggrandizing the company's block and altering it to conforms to your own body. Which is something people do to commercial patterns every day. I'm glad it works for you but this company's (and others) gimmick is a bit misleading. You still have to make adjustments. You're still *altering someone else's draft*. You are not technically patterncutting/patternmaking/drafting. You're not starting from a rectangle and a list of measurements which is what drafting actually entails. That said, I'm glad people are finding creative ways to get clothes that fit them. Someone else who shares your opinion is The Closet Historian, a young RUclipsr who also dresses in a retro/vintage style. She altered a Big4 basic pattern to fit her perfectly and uses this as her block to copy vintage designs from vintage catalogs. Happy sewing!
You make a valid argument that it isn't starting from a basic block and technically isn't drafting and I don't disagree with it. However, my degree is in educational psychology and my thinking is that this type of system is a nice transitional step for those that want to learn how to draft patterns but may be intimidated. Kind of like training wheels. Hopefully, they will gain confidence and see that they are capable of creating a block and drafting from there. Also, I think The Closet Historian is wonderful and I love her sense of humor! ❤
Being realstic patterns are made to fit white women who have more sloped shoulders, less rounded hips, less bust than black women, so we cannot buy them and just cut as I see some women doing.
Lets go back to cave men & women days where there were no sewing patterns ruling our brains , lets jus go back to wearing what they wore , boy that would be sew refreshing , wouldnt it ? 😂
Oh dear. Please don't blame me, blame RUclips's algorithm. Despite my channel's name being ModernRETROWoman, a channel description that highlights the fact that I make content about information from the mid-20th century that can be used today, a video description that says I'll be showing how to draft a 1950s slip, and behind the scenes hashtags that make it clear that this is a video about vintage sewing, the algorithm still decided to show the thumbnail to you. I assure you that clickbait was never the intention.
@@dcwatashiso just go watch other videos. Problem solved. Negative comments are not necessary. This lady is not a mind reader so cannot tailor a title so YOU will know not to watch it.🙄
@@gerriebell2128 you’re the one with all of the negativity. Obviously, you don’t know much about RUclips because if they are people specifically looking for vintage patterns, they’re not going to find her video. Besides, I didn’t ask for your opinion. Move along.
Alas, as far as I know, you can't. This method is designed to be used with a pattern. However, this video from WithWendy might help you achieve your goal: ruclips.net/video/KeJjB-bdzuI/видео.html
What is your experience sewing vintage reproduction garments from the Big Four pattern companies? Do you draft your own patterns?
@@dortek882 So, maybe I should have added another secret that pattern companies don't want us to know: There is no one "right way." to do something (well, except for needing to press as we sew...). If it works for you and gets a great result, then that's the right way for you. One thing I love about the sewing community is that we share our tips and adapt for what works for us.
I don’t know how to draft my own patterns and I’m getting back into sewing after a couple of decades break. I’m retired now and I now have time to sew. I’m wanting to get out of the knit pants and tops clothes. I prefer conservative dresses like my Mennonite friends wear. 😊
I have a lutterlow sewing kit and I would love to learn more about how to use it.
@@ironrose888 While I don't use Lutterloh's system, I think the one I use is close enough that it will help you learn how to use it.
@@ironrose888 I retired a year and a half ago, so that's why I finally have more time to sew, too! I don't "dress plain" (in the Mennonite sense...) but I do lean toward classic/timeless styles that are conservative. So, you'll see me draft vintage patterns that you might like for your wardrobe, too.
My mum was taught in Pakistan where patterns dont exist! Just taking measurements is enough to make a unique and fab dress! Now that's a real skill!
I agree! Life goals, right?
Tell me about it! Same in Nga. My husband would say the tailor just needs to look at you and he is able to replicate something to fit you! I'm learning to do the free hand style as it literally seems stress less - as with the BIG 4, there is cutting of pattern sheets, FBA or SBA, waist lengthening or shortening etc. I'm too tired to think of other things required - just learning formulas now and getting to know what fits who and to rembr the shoulder length might in most cases be bodice length
Wow that’s amazing! ❤
Thats my goal.sewing with measurements and not dépending on patterns from others
Patterns are just a lazy way brought to you by people who want to sell something to get rich. Now nothing wrong if you want to give them your own money. But in the old days in America we did not have pattern comps
People just got use to sewing.
When i was young i worked in the military base grocery store they had a number system for everything. When bananas came up i typed it in the number n bingo it showed the price.
Point is i remembered thousands of them. Had i had them in a book to go by exp: pattern Id use that.
Not the lazy way. After you make a size 18 pattern a few times it was in your head. And now you know your welcomed
I learned to sew without patterns from a lady from El Salvador who didn't speak English. I am so grateful for her teaching me.
Patterns are a lot of work to make fit.
I've lost just over 11 stone in the last 10 months, I really need new clothes (more of them) so I will be making my own patterns.
I learnt how to draft my own patterns. The key is to learn how to take your own measurements very acurate .
My grandma sewed by eye or drafted on literally anything. Rarely bough a pattern. usually a Vogue. But modern patterns are all the same. Get the pattermaking for fashion design 4th edition on is ideal and draft away. Make a block and go. If flat patterning is your jam, it all u will need. You can look at a garments style lines and copy it.
What a great Aunt! I bet your little niece will remember that dress all her life...I remember favorite childhood dresses sixty years later.
Thank you for your kind words!
I usually end up doing a preliminary run with inferior/cheap fabric to find out the fit so I know where to alter before cutting the real fabric I plan to use.
Yes! It wasn't until I was well into my 30s and joined a sewing circle that I even knew that I should have been doing practice garments (of course, this was pre-WWW and all of the stuff we can now learn online with a push of a button on our phones...when we thought having a 2400 dialup modem to access the university's mainframe was uh-maze-ing! *laugh*).
I use cheap calico or old bedsheets to see how things look before using the intended fabric
There have been times I've used "what was I thinking when I bought this??" fabric from my stash, er, I mean, "collection."
My grandmother, about 1910-15, talked about laying the fabric out on the floor and going about making outfits without patterns as we know.
As a teenager, I remember coming across patterns at my grandparent's house that my great grandmother (she was born in the 1880s) had made out newspapers. And they would say things like, "sleeve," or "bodice." At the time I had no understanding that those were her basic blocks that she used to create an entire wardrobe. (As an aside, I remember laying my cutting board out on the living room floor and pinning the patterns--straight out of the envelope--onto my fabric and then cutting them out. That was many, many years ago and the floor has somehow gotten further down than I remember it being! 🤣 )
YES. Those wonderful ancestors of ours understood pleating and draping. I was surprised to discover that the ornate dresses of the 1900s were often pieces: multi-layered skirt, fitted bodice with added ruffles, etc., and detachable forearm sleeves.
When I first started hoarding, I mean, "collecting" vintage patterns, I was surprised by how many patterns there were for just the design elements that could be temporarily added to clothing to change the entire look. I'm pretty sure this was especially popular during the WWII era when fabric was rationed.
This how what we r still doing in asia.
Besides the “math” fear, there the body shaming, that if we don’t fit the standard pattern, we don’t deserve well fitting clothes!
❤ Oh, that’s an excellent insight!! Thank you for pointing out how that toxic messaging oozes into all sorts of areas of our lives 😢
Rather than being body shaming or toxic, it seems to be that having a simpler "standard" made it easier for pattern companies. In the Simplicity Sewing Book of 1969 there are nine categories of pattern types/sizes for women: Girl, Chubbie [no shame], Young Junior/Teen, Junior Petite, Junior, Miss Petite, Miss, Half Size, and Woman. Of those, maybe four correspond to today's range of patterns. Most patterns still assume a fair bit of knowledge about sewing, and not all sewists had the advantage of learning to sew in junior high--we had to hand baste and fit our garments before actually sewing them. True vintage patterns from the 1930s or 1940s often had no instructions included, so it was up to the sewist to know how garments were put together. 🙂
Oh! I interpreted Evelyn's comment to mean that body shaming and the toxic messaging sent by our culture in general, not from the pattern companies themselves and responded from that POV. I agree with everything you are saying in your comment.
@@themodernretrowoman honestly, I was pretty confident in terms of my body shape when I realized I was going to have to sew my own clothes to get natural fibers in something that fit. I've been interested for probably a year, and my brother even got me an Indi plus size pattern for Christmas. But when it came in and I was sifting through the instructions, I wound up going to their website because I wasnt understanding what I needed to do with the size, to be told that I would have to grade the pattern. I've seen exactly 2 or 3 things that I can think of. All in a 9 week sewing class in the 8th grade that did not get rid of my fear of sewing machines. Maybe that isn't daunting to people that are experienced, but I just made my first mockup a year later on a much cheaper pattern to replace. And am generally a lot more unconfident about my body now. They would probably do well by giving a few ideas for how to grade patterns for common adjustments.
I agree that a lot of assumptions are made that people will just magically know how to make adult. It used to be that the major companies would publish a sewing book that could be used as a reference guide when using their patterns. Unfortunately, that seems to have gone by the wayside and I think your experience is the norm rather than the exception these days. 😢
I started sewing at the age of 14, in the early 80s. Every thing I know is from school. And this was never covered. Thank you ❤😊❤
I started historic costuming over 20 years ago and rapidly fell in love with draughting systems, it looks like the one you're using is coupe jour (or similar) I started collecting them and although I have discalculia I can easily use all the systems I've come across. I just love making my own patterns, probably more than sewing
I too have dyscalculia Ty for your comment so I have an idea what direction to go . I don’t sew yet just a strong interest
@@DawnLowery-or8se some of the systems use units rather than body measurements, i really don't understand that maths is hard but i seem to be able to deal with the systems!
I absolutely love drafting patterns! It’s honestly my favorite part of “sewing” and really unleashes my creativity.
I remember that light 💡 moment in my pattern drafting class when I realized how my creativity was being liberated.
I am thrilled to have found your channel. My mother used the Lutterloh system when I was growing up in the 1950s. Now I have my own kit and love using it. My Lutterloh patterns consistently give me better results than commercial ones and as I am learning, the process gets easier. Thank you for this interesting video.🌷
Thank you for your very kind words ❤️
I totally have a whole binder full of that French pattern system. I think my 95 year old Aunt gave it to me about 30 years ago. I have made several patterns from it. In fact, I used the basic blocks to come up with my own designs. I actually didn’t know where the system came from and never heard anyone talk about it before. Thanks so much for your video. 🥰
Where do you find it?
@@lighthseskr I don’t know. My great aunt gave it to me years ago. I don’t have a clue where you can buy these things. I’ve hung on to my pattern binder like gold for years now.
Is it perhaps a Lutterloh system? I’ve had mine for over 30 years, still relevant today and fit is perfect every time.
@@Chickasawndngirlif you ever felt like scanning the pages and selling the digital copies, I'm sure there's plenty of us that would be interested in buying a copy. You're so lucky it was passed down to you❤
@@ivoryhenson1285 oh wow! No, I never thought of that. That’s a great idea! I’m going to have to get on that task. Thanks!
How did RUclips know I was thinking of making a slip for my linen dress 😳 I'll be honest as a person who has made costumes for a living. Sometimes it was easier to have a paper pattern if it was close enough to the actor's measurements and hack in accuracy. I prefer draping over flat patterning as well. Some people are the opposite. But a day or two for draping or patterning verses cutting out a pattern is what it boils down to!
Have used one of their repos and it definitely is different. Some are adapted to our modern bodies. Especially if you are a costume historian that is drafting a pattern from an original. So it is good to be aware of that. We are also so used to how seams and closures are today that it's hard for some to know unless they had studied the time period.
I have a couple of those crazy systems. One from the 90's and the other one from the 70's. Haven't had time to play so super helpful video!
You did have me chuckling: I remember crafting 1st a gym bag then an A line jumper 🤮 in jr hi.
I celebrated my 70th birthday this month, so yes, cheerfully a Crone.
I applaud you for sharing your journey & knowledge.
Thank you for your very kind words. ❤️
Yep, also in my 70s. First thing I sewed was a raglan sleeve blouse. I put the sleeves in wrong FOUR times. There were only 2 ways, right way and wrong way, so I did it the wrong way four times in a row!
@@kathygann7632 🙃 Sometimes I think perseverance is one of the best life lessons gained from sewing!
I did a tailoring course where I learned to take measurements then design the dress, cut and sew it. The problem ow is that fabric stores are closing down and its really difficult to find anything i want to wear! Commercial patterns waste far too much fabric.
In my No. California community, my only options for fabric stores are a small quilt shop (their fabrics are gorgeous but not really geared toward clothing) and a national chain that basically caters to costuming and fleece "fabric." I really miss having fashion fabric stores nearby. Thank goodness for online stores!
I agree!
In the 80's when I learned to sew their were so many options to buy fabric. Lots of fabric stores in every town, Sears, Walmart, Steadmans....It was glorious.
A great video about a great system BUT scaling up a pattern is one thing; drafting it is another. I thought you would be describing creating the pattern piece from measurements.
I understand what you are saying about the difference and I don't disagree. The patterns are described as "draft-at-home" and so I was working off of that. That said, as a retired educational psychologist, I think it's a good stepping stone for those that may be intimidated by creating pattern pieces from measurements. Now that I've finished the slip project (finally!), I will be exploring the Haslam system which is a true vintage drafting system that you thought I'd be talking about in this video. So, don't give up on me just yet ❤️
I am reteaching myself to sew. This is the info I wanted. I was drafting payterns for some simple bags, rolls and clutches last night and havimg fun with simple ideas and wishing I could do the same for clothing. Thank you!!
I love that you have the same take on these pattern companies that I have. I don't like to even try to use a purchased pattern except for help with the style. I don't sew vintage garments, but I do sew a lot of clothing for my own personal wear. I often find that available purchased patterns do not hold current styles or simplistic patterns for simple garments like blouses, T-shirts, and tank tops. If they do, they often have design ideas that would have to be back walked to get to the simpler lines and style.
I will have to watch this again to really get an idea of the tool you are using. I now have blocks for a basic woven blouse/shirt, knit tops, and bottoms for most styles and fabrics. I also have designed my own yoga wear, both pants, capris and bras. I just finished a moto jacket in a style that I found from a catalog. I do also advocate that using ready-made garments is a great way to get styles and fit for pattern making. I completely believe that to really have clothing that fits and is flattering, designing and making our own patterns is a must at least until you have a block to grade these patterns with.
I would much rather work on a pattern that has most of my measurements already figured out. And that is what I did with this moto jacket, so now I also have that fitted perfected jacket pattern as well. Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge. It is so refreshing to hear that you have the same issues with store bought patterns that I have found.
I agree that the commercial patterns have really simplified lines and style features. In addition, they "cheat" the fit issue by creating patterns designed for knits. I may be mistaken but I think they are trying to cater to beginners and those that say they don't have time to sew. Unfortunately, I also think that their approach turns off a lot of beginning sewists because their garment doesn't turn out the way they hoped it would.
You said: I don't like to even try to use a purchased pattern except for help with the style.
Back when I was taking my classes, my professors knew that I wasn't going to switch careers and become a fashion designer like my classmates so they didn't require me to design garments from scratch. Instead, I would find a vintage pattern from their archive and they taught me how to use the pattern to replicate/update the style lines and design features. I really appreciated that they did that for me and I'm looking forward to doing the same thing as I rebuild my non-jeans and knitted tops wardrobe!
I also have issues with the top pattern companies. I no longer buy them. They never fit even when the measurements say it should.
Lutterloh company does this exact method today with miniature patterns you scale up per your measurements. Not good for those who rely on printed instructions, though!
Yes, but the only vintage Lutterloh patterns I've been able to find are certain German uniforms from WWII that I don't even want to name 😬 Since it's been around for so long, I'm surprised I can't find the older notebooks/packets. But, you're correct about the printed instructions situation. My latest video showcases all of the mistakes I made in making the slip! Edited to add: And I just did a search for vintage Lutterloh patterns and found a whole bunch! Maybe I was using the wrong search terms before!!
I remember when I could buy really inexpensive muslin to use to make sample garments. Now, just finding ANY fabric I'd even want to wear is almost impossible! I guess it's good people are getting back into quilting and crafting? 🤔 Even that was dying before COVID. When I was about 12 we learned to find patterns that fit (and adjusted them) with the styles we liked, i.e., long sleeves, bell sleeves, gussets, etc., and then just assembled the pieces we perfected to make into a garment we wanted. No need to buy more patterns once we had a sleeve that fit, bust that fit, darts that fit, etc. I have a Lutterloh system that I just never go the hang of. But I do have dress forms and find it easier to drape and fit on them. Thank you for doing these videos! 😘
Thank you for your kind words!
there are quite a few of these types of systems the most famous is the lutterloh from Germany.
My first time on your channel and I am happy to be here. You are wonderful to listen to and I enjoy your humour. I’m just beginning your instructions now. Great anticipation ….I’m so ready to learn your techniques and I have onhand all the supplies
Thank you for kind words!
My mom had pattern drafting stuff when i was growing up .(her unfinished college degree was home economics emphasis dressmaking...)but btween actual homemaking with 5 kids and dad working 3 jobs and working on his degree and then mom getting a job once the youngest was in school...well...using patterns was all I learned.
I love aprons and i have a good sized collection of vintage patterns not repo's. But i have a problem, I can't just make it from the pattern I have to modify, I like to make them reversable, pockets have to be larger, longer ties and the list goes on. I start with tracing the pattern then the thought process begins and that can take a long time, but I love it. The true vintage apron patterns don't come with multiple sizes, sometimes you can't find the size you would like and they need to be adjusted.
Thank you for this tutorial and your apron tutorial.
I love aprons, too! Thank you for your kind words.
I appreciate this style of drafting. There is a point though, about why modern vintage rerun patterns are not drafted exactly to the original. Women of today, regardless of body shape do not wear the foundation garments or underwear of previous ‘vintage’ generations. Our underwear is much less form shaping and fitting than the under garment s of those decades. The newer patterns are ‘meant’ to work with our more relaxed shaped underwear. Not that is works that well either. Thank you for this. It was very informative.
That's an excellent point! Thank you for bringing it up.
Loved the video! I’m getting ready to make a slip from an actual vintage pattern. I look forward to learning the drafting that you showed. I’m not an expert so I appreciate being able to watch before I start cutting. I’ll be watching for the next video!
Thank you so much for your kind words! Good luck on your slip!
I learned sewing and altering from my mother, grandmother and great grandmother. I often had to alter patterns for myself and started using bits and pieces from multiple patterns to create my own designs. I eventually started making heirloom clothes for the infants and children in my Kure and discovered children’s patterns really need altering as children come in so many shapes and sizes! Years later I found a book on pattern making and taught myself to make patterns. Really comes in handy now that I’m addicted to making vintage doll clothes from the 40s and 50s. An added be if it is that dolls don’t wiggle! This video is great!
I am absolutely fascinated by this! and I completely agree with you with the Big 4 patterns. according to the envelope, I'm a size 16. but when I measure the patterns I'm actually a size 10. that is quite a discrepancy. and to top it off, that size 10 then has tiny armholes. I live alone so I need to find somebody to help me get my measurements.
I have a few drafting textbooks but I'm always interested in figuring out new methods
Yes! Exactly! It's completely wonky!
When drafting slopers, I found that more measurements are better. 😂
Slopers? Yes, definitely!!
Do you have the tape measure that has a slider & snap? It makes taking your own measurements much easier.
@@lynnm.johnson5755 I have not heard of this tape measurer! Where can I find it?
Over the past few years I have begun to learn pattern drafting (for my own use), using the measurements to make bodice, skirt and pants slopers. I was amazed at how simple the process was and bravely made some garments which ended up fitting pretty well. (Yes the fitting especially for pants can be time consuming, but worth it for the end results) It is fair to say I am more of a standard size person, but like you I find the commercial patterns add more ease than I would like making my finished garment one that won't get much wear. Plus a pattern is very costly now (I started sewing in 1963 when patterns were very inexpensive), so I expect alot for my money! This early fall I ordered the Lutterloh system mainly because I don't want to spend the time designing my own clothes, and hope I can make any fit adjustments needed to a self-drafted pattern because of the knowledge gained from making up slopers. Hopefully this will all work out and am now deciding which pattern to start with first! Thank you for a well presented tutorial and appreciate your time and thoughtful approach to this topic.
I've also run into the preschooler huge size problems with my granddaughter who lives thousands of miles away. It's taken about 16 months for her to grow into the outfits, even though I used her measurements against the pattern measurements.
You have such a nice manner. I really enjoy your teaching style.
Back in the late 60 or early 70, all the pattern companies came out with something called "New Sizing" which put them all on the same page so to speak. If your size is Misses 12 then you could be assured regardless or which company pattern you bought, they would all fit the same. Next, some of the patterns included an adjustment for petites in the tissue pattern. Needless to say, it was a godsend.
Yes, when new sizing came in, patterns quit fitting.
@@kathygann7632 You can't go by the "size", you really must look at the measurements and get the size closest to your own measurements. It's always been that way, no matter what sizing system is used.
I love what you’re doing with your channel! So valuable!
Thank you! ♥
You’ve inspired me to research pattern drafting courses in local colleges. For now I do have a dress form (with my measurements) that I fit/adjust my toiles on. Very helpful to know that alternative drafting methods are available. Thankyou ❤
Thank you! I love any tips and wisdom that improves my ability to fit a garment to the individual.
Thank you for your kind words!
I really enjoyed this video! I am very eager to adapt/ design patterns to really fit and flatter the person.! I look forward to more videos and your insights! Thank you!
Thank you for your kind words!
I used to make "simple things", got a book in my early teens, "clothes and stuff you can sew yourself" where a lot of patterns were simple kimonostyle shirts where you lay down on the fabric and draw a line 10-15 cm outside the body, use a plate to draw a good hole for the neck. Other things had plaits and such to make it easy to fit (70ies ...), almost everything was straight pieces. Learned how to make skirts from circular segments, and I have no problem with arithmdtics or geometry, shaped clothing on barbie dolls, made a lot of doll's clothes with or without a pattern. I can adjust a readymade pattern for me, sort of, but really making them ... nah ... kniting is another thing, I always try to figure out how a knitted garment is made when I see it, and I can transform my measures to patterns and so on, wish I had that with fabric, always a bit scared to make the leap.
We'll hold your hand as you make the leap! And I promise, the leap is only inches, or centimeters I should say, instead of a high cliff.
I want/desire/yearn to make my own clothes. My mother sewed her own clothes, she created my wedding dress. I wish I had been a better daughter and begged her to teach me everything she knew, too late now
Just so you know, I have a rule that you're not allowed to "should" all over yourself around here. ❤️. Okay, now that I have that out of the way, my grandmother and great-grandmother were the ones who instilled my love of sewing but they passed away when I was still quite young. But, I like to think that they are still guiding me as I learn and develop my sewing skills. They may not be here to physically teach me, but their spirits are still with me. The same is true for you as you satisfy that yearning to make your own clothes.
Just keep learning and imagine her smiling happy and proud xox
I really want to learn how to draft my own patterns. You should create a book to accompany your tutorials! Also, I love your pink cutting mat. Where could I purchase one like it? It would match my sewing room decor perfectly! Thanks for sharing.❤️
Thank you for your kind words! Actually, I do create "sewing guides" or "cheat sheets" for my tutorials. You can find the one that goes with the slip project at modernretrowoman-com.ck.page/products/sewing-guide-mrs-depews-1950s-slip . Also, I bought my cutting mat at JoAnn's. I just looked on Amazon to see if you could get it there, but it seems they had every color but pink. 🤔
Hi. I just watched the first one of your videos. I really would like to converse with you on this subject. Briefly, I made my 1st 2 piece dress for 4 H when I was 9. My Aunt helped me. I wore it to school and church proudly. About 18 months later someone let me choose a pattern and material and a zipper. I sware I dont remember much of that process. I know Mama had to help me understand the instructions. I did not have other help. I ended up with the cutest hiphugger with a flared skirt, sleeveless with a back zip and a rolled collar. It was a Simplicity pattern.` Oh yes it was orange with mod flowers. I wore it 2 years until I outgrew it. Anyway I kept sewing regulary. My older cousin gave me pointers until she moved just as I started HS. I made all my clothes for at least another 25 years and sewed some for others. I also made my wedding dress in 1974. I used our old treddle machine in the dorm room to sew it.Then my world crumbled. My husband got very sick. I had my hands full. I no longer had time to sew. He declined 10 or 12 years and passed away. After several years I met and eventually remarried. He had MS. I cared for him the best I could. Still no time for sewing. He passed 6,5 years ago. I have been vegetating. Due to numerous health problems I have become a sack of potatoes. I am sure I am taller than you and larger too. I do have narrow shoulders as you do. I dont have a dress form. I've never made a pattern. I had never heard of blocks or sloper until the last few months. I have bought 2 patterns and a couple hundred dollars of fabric. I've been online watching and seeking design ideas. I bought 2 used machines and had them cleaned and repaired. I dont even have any well fitting clothes that I would cut apart. I live alone and do not have anyone to help with measurements. I know this is rediculous. I have fond a style of Chinese skirt I would love to make. I can not find it even near my size. But with some direction, maybe I could figure it out. Would you be interested in helping me with this endeavour. I have not sewn in 30 years (I am 69). Thanks.
I’m delighted to hear that you have taken up sewing again! Alas, I struggle to find time for my own sewing so I am unable to work with anyone individually. However, I encourage you to find your local American Sewing Guild chapter and reach out to them. Of course I think you should join them but they may be able to recommend someone who can guide you through your project.
I am fascinated by this process. I have drafted hundreds of patterns using every method from the Eyeball & Pray technique to Winifred Aldrich’s Metric Pattern Cutting, but this is news to me.
Where does one learn more about this amazing method? I’m thinking about the space I could save by transposing my archived original designs into this format.
While I fully understand the role of slips , full or half, they are usually of synthetic fabric. With the wind we have here at times in Australia that equals a ton of static electricity and if the outer garment is or has synthetic that is a ton of cling not fling. With daily temperatures in summer that are 90 to 100 plus degrees Fahrenheit, or even in the 80's, that is an extra layer of fabric that wont breathe as a rule so one will be looking at heat stress, heat stroke or worse, death. Maybe the recommendation of slip wearing, and I agree about what it does, should also come with a temperature guide. It was a practice developed in a way different climate. We need more fabrics that will breathe and allow air through.
Make them out of lining fabric
thank you for this most informative exploration. keep well and warm. Greetings from New Zealand
Preach, I just.turned 60 and still just wear jogging pants and t.shirts and sundresses. I love the 60s and 70s boho styles and bought sewing machine and took I class so far but want to learn how to make clothes I like to fit me. Any suggestions appreciated.
Thank you for your kind words!
I just found your channel and love your explanation! I purchased the lutterloh system because the French method scared me. I don’t know what ease a sloper or a block is…I know nothing!
Thank you for your kind words! Stick with me and hopefully you'll learn all of these things!
Just landed on this video, I love you and your spirit, you speak to my internal freespiritedsewist😅.
I am interested in your drafting system. Where do you find the miniature of pattern pieces, and numbers to enlarge the pieces? Think that this makes so much sense for retro and modern patterns .
Look at Lutterloh. It’s a German system, which is very similar to the demonstrated method.
Sorry about the delay in replying. I was up to my eyeballs trying to finish my most recent video. Anywho, to answer your question: The patterns that I use come from Mrs. Depew on Etsy. There is a link to the slip pattern I used in the description box. Each pattern has the proportional tape that you use to enlarge the pattern according to your measurements.
I would love to learn this skill!!!
Hang around and you will!
So informative! Thank you for this!
This is very similar to the Lutterlow system I think 🤔
Yes, it is very similar to the Lutterloh system.
Bodies have not changed from the past: if you walk into any used clothing store, (thrift store, goodwill, upscale resale) you will find an abundance of clothing in smaller, thinner sizes, in better shape than in larger sizes. Why? Because when you have clothes that fit well you wear them out to the point that they are not suitable for resale or you never get rid of them. If it has lasted through the ages it’s probably because it got little to no ware to begin with; its original owner was probably an adolescent that outgrew it fairly quickly. Yes, obesity is way more common now but it also existed all through history and so has a preference for the thin
I suspect that you and I are close to the same age, and I remember being told that 'girls can't do math'. I bought into it and believed that I just didn't have the aptitude for it. I have gone back to school and had to take a math class last year, and I discovered that I love math. I would tell my high school math teacher off, but he's too old to hear very well now. I have some patterns from Mrs. Depew that I love. Watching you draft the pattern helped demystify it for me. Thank you!
I'm glad I was able to help demystify your patterns!
I remember my aunt, who taught for a while in a vo-tech high school in the 1970s, had to adjust the math problems. When she used the word problems as originally written (pipes expanding or shrinking with temperature changes), her girl students, who had been taught this mindset, would complain about the problems but, when she converted the same problem into fabric shrinking or stretching, they were able to solve it. It was presented to us as a cautionary tale that it is the teacher's responsibility to find a language/presentation that the students understand.
@@wartgin YES!!!!!!
I wonder if those design systems worked for others back then or if it was like nowadays where they were still originally drafted for the ideal body shape. (Today's pattern books telling me that's a 5'6" woman with a B-cup, tiny waist, and moderate hips. Just like pattern drafting books from the late 1800s and early 1900s cater to, despite the fact that people from back then we're just as varied in size as we are today. Survivorship bias in museum pieces and left over vintage finds being what colours people's beliefs that they weren't.)
Personally I find it easier drafting patterns from scratch with all my proper measurements, rather than trusting someone's pattern making system will work for me. But I think the idea of these systems is really interesting.
Before multi-sized patterns, companies offered a greater variety in sizing--For instance, “half size” made for women like me who is under 5'4" and have a "well blessed" bosom. However, based on my reading from my collection of vintage sewing books, I think there was a similar expectation that you'd take the pattern and make adjustments. I agree that drafting the patterns from scratch is the easiest but I think of this system as kind of a "gateway" to gaining confidence.
Superb! Thank you
Thank you for your kind words ❤️
I want to be able to learn to draft my own patterns into create my blocks for my bodice and skirt and even pants blocks.
After the slip project, we'll start on making a block so that we can use the Haslam method of pattern drafting. I really think that between the Haslam method and the vintage French method that I show in this video, you'll be pleased with how you'll be able to draft your own patterns.
awesome video! thanks for sharing.
Thank you for your kind words!
I am sorry if I missed it where could I purchase the tape measure and the miniature pattern? Thank you.
Sorry. I realized that I put it way at the bottom of the description box and it was hard to find. I've moved it up but here is the info:
►Mrs. Depew Vintage 1950s Slip Pattern #7314 (Etsy): tidd.ly/3OIuLta
Still way over my head, I am somehow able to adjust Big Four patterns. 🤷♀️
My issue with pattern companies is that they never indicate the cup size on patterns. Most are sized for b cups. Those of us with larger cups have to adjust the pattern. Otherwise the neck is too wide, they should add the upper bust measurment so people know going in.
This! I recently heard that something like 80% of American women have a size dd cup but pattern makers still make them for b cups!
To everyone who wants to learn pattern drafting but are not interested in vintage styles: watching these videos may help you learn the principles of how to modify a pattern to fit you correctly. Then you can use these principles to modify patterns for more modern styles.
I watched a few videos on pattern drafting, and that did help me modify commercial patterns to fit me better. Learn about ease, measuring pattern pieces themselves, and how together, the pieces will go around your body, so you can know how to modify each piece for fitting you when sewn together.
This is what I love about this community! This is great advice and I appreciate you sharing it with our kindred sewists!
I actually have the original system. I’d have to dig it out, but I’m sure it comes with a booklet on how to use it. I’ll have to build up the gumption to try it out.
Sooo....is it Seamstress or Sewists ?
I have sewn for 60 years....can sew just about anything/everything.....
Love repurposing/revamping/remaking.....
Used clothing is cheap or free !
💖💖😁
Just found your channel and very interested in seeing more! Clicked the sub button and hit the bell!
Lolol. I always wear a slip!
Me, too! Well, not when I'm wearing pants...but I feel nekked without one!
Same here, not only because slips preserve the life of whatever dress, there's just something about wearing actual clothing.
Interesting video!
Thank you for your kind words!
You need to watch Stephanie Canada for her opinion of reproduction patterns
I agree that her videos are very informative (and why I encourage people to go watch her video on the difference between authentic and reproduced vintage patterns in my video). She is one of my favorites and helped me understand why the reproductions weren’t turning out the same as my vintage patterns were ❤❤
Hello I throughly enjoyed your video. I didn't see where you mentioned where one can purchase the French System you were using, do you teach classes using this system? Thank you in advance.
Thank you for your kind words! The tape measure is included with the individual patterns that I buy from Mrs. Depew, so you don’t buy a system, per se. I do not teach classes on how to use this system other than plans to continue to make RUclips videos taking everyone along for the ride as I make various garments. ❤️
@@themodernretrowoman Thank you for responding. Have a great day!
this sounds like a home made version of the lutterloh system
Hi can you please let me know where to get the tape and the wheel
Many thanks
Do I find more info on your Patreon? About the pattern drafting method
Great question! Eventually, yes. But I haven't finished making the slip, yet, so I haven't made the "cheat sheet" for the slip project that members at the Elegance Circle will receive. That said, if you want to know more about the draft-at-home system itself, Mrs. Depew has a great FAQ about it that you can find here: mrsdepew.com/draft-at-home-faq
where can you purchase a miniature pattern guide and special measuring tape?
I don’t understand that guide you used. Is that something you have to use with a pattern or do you make your own patter? I am always making adjustments when I sew-been a few years since I last did a project-but love to learn more
You are talking about the mini-pattern and the ruler, correct? Basically, you are enlarging the mini-pattern using the "ruler" thingy to approximate your size. It won't be a perfect fit- you'll still need to make adjustments--but I think it's closer than the commercial patterns.
But where does the mini pattern come from? Who makes that? how do you make it ??
@@gloriab7960 You buy it. For example, here is the link in my description for the slip pattern I used in this video: Mrs. Depew Vintage 1950s Slip Pattern #7314 (Etsy): tidd.ly/3OIuLta. There are several vendors on Etsy that sell them.
Sorry I didn't make that more clear!
❤
this is the same as the golden rule sewing system. but i think the patens should be brought up to date.
Where did the tape measure come from? Was it printed from the computer, and what about the little round measuring pattern come from? Where can it be ordered?
The tape measure is included in the pattern that you download and print. You can order the slip pattern I'm using in this video here:
►Mrs. Depew Vintage 1950s Slip Pattern #7314 (Etsy): tidd.ly/3OIuLta
What website am I downloading from? Thank you.
@@janniewilliams3569 (click the "more" button if you don't see the link) Mrs. Depew is an Etsy seller. You can buy the pattern here: tidd.ly/3OIuLta
👗👏🏻
Where do i get the french system tape measure to download so i caan follow alonf with your videos
The patterns that I buy from Mrs Depew all have the tape measure included. So, if you want to follow along, you just need to use same pattern that I'm using (and I'll always include the link to the pattern in the description).
Can I ask which local school you went to? Very thank you for response.🤗
I went to Pasadena City College when I lived in Los Angeles. But don't hold any mistakes I make against them.
@@themodernretrowoman HaHa, you are still a terrific sewist and teacher!
Hey everyone! One of my professors has entered the chat!!! ❤️❤️❤️
And thank you for your kind words!
Hi how do I buy this pattern and tape to do this pattern drafting please
Sorry. It seems I buried the link to the pattern at the very bottom of the description box so it wasn't easy to find.
Here is the info: Mrs. Depew Vintage 1950s Slip Pattern #7314 (Etsy): tidd.ly/3OIuLta
It seems like every product in our country has fallen into the same process. The bigger they become the less personal it becomes. This applies to everything from sewing to government. Furniture,,,you name it. You Have to learn old ways,,,if they haven't succeeded in blocking that information and you can find it. If you find someone that actually teaches this...watch it over and over and absorb like a sponge.
Indeed! The sense of accomplishment is immense and we aren't relying on the few corporations that seem to own everything.
This is the first video of yours that I've seen. I don't need to watch how you sew to know that you're an expert sewer. You clearly know what you're talking about - and more importantly for yt, how to talk about it. I'm subscribing for that. I've sewn since I was a child and so did my mother. I've only tweeked patterns in the past or sewn basic shapes for draping like a pirate shirt.
I have one minor constructive criticism for you. Have more confidence in your presentation. I think you're writing out every word that you want to say, probably in case you forget something. You won't, you know what's needed. Video allows you to rerecord a section and edit out what you don't want. Have a practice with index cards using single word bullet points for running order. Then you can let yourself speak more smoothly. I know you can. Onwards and upwards. Xx
Thank you for your very kind words. ❤️Ironically, I started using a script when I received feedback that I should use one! 🤣. But, truthfully, I am a little self conscious because I had speech issues when I was a child and I am always amazed that I went into a career where I was leading workshops on how to teach college to rooms full of professors. ❤️
Lol. You do what's best for you. The hesitancy only suggests following the script, no indication of you having had to work on speech issues. Your practice has paid you well.
Is this a knock off of lutterloh patterns?
I'm not sure if the system itself is a knock off or not. My guess is that other companies saw how successful it was and created their own version. The patterns that I use are from Mrs. Depew and originated in France (were originally in French).
Having your own dress form is totally cheating and you don’t give an alternative. I’m not afraid of the math. I can add and subtract. It’s measuring. I can’t measure my leg length correctly when I hav to bend down to see the number. The number becomes much shorter. I can’t pin the depth of a wrinkle on my back by myself. And don’t tell me to get a friend to help me or my husband, (what husband?) or ‘whatever’. The best I can hope for is the UPS guy. And that puts me in the same boat with building my own dress form. That’s why as a size 18/20 designer dreamer I live in knit slacks and t-shirt hell.
I totally agree it's cheating! Even with a husband, I have to do my own measurements (I love him and am grateful for him, but measuring is not even close to his forte' despite being a professional sculptor) so I understand your frustration (although it does sound like an intriguing pickup line for the UPS guy.... )Your arguments are exactly why I made my own dress form (I talk about it in my video about making the dress form). Is it perfect? Absolutely not. In fact, I had to take a bunch of the stuffing out yesterday because I realized it was several inches off. That said, I'm working on videos for the Haslam System of Dresscutting and I'm hoping to rely less on my dress form once I get the basic block/foundation/sloper made. And, it's going to require that I figure out how to deal with some of the issues you've described so, hopefully, together, we all can figure out how to make it work for us so that we can get out of knit slacks and t-shirt hell. ❤️
🥰
Why can't you use a rod that telescopes out or a tape that drops to the length you want and then measure that rod or tape? That is how I measure length without bending over.
@@reginafetty6374 Do you drop the tape so that the #1 is at the floor and then you have the length (number) up where you can read it? Ingenious! Thanks Regenia 🥰, Beth
I've found that even the big 4 lack wearing ease. Now the big 4 are the big 1.
This "French system" immediately evoked systems like Lutterloh. And you mention it yourself in the video.
My problem is the use of the word "drafting". This is a scaled pattern; the company did the math. You're just aggrandizing the company's block and altering it to conforms to your own body. Which is something people do to commercial patterns every day.
I'm glad it works for you but this company's (and others) gimmick is a bit misleading. You still have to make adjustments. You're still *altering someone else's draft*. You are not technically patterncutting/patternmaking/drafting. You're not starting from a rectangle and a list of measurements which is what drafting actually entails.
That said, I'm glad people are finding creative ways to get clothes that fit them. Someone else who shares your opinion is The Closet Historian, a young RUclipsr who also dresses in a retro/vintage style. She altered a Big4 basic pattern to fit her perfectly and uses this as her block to copy vintage designs from vintage catalogs. Happy sewing!
You make a valid argument that it isn't starting from a basic block and technically isn't drafting and I don't disagree with it. However, my degree is in educational psychology and my thinking is that this type of system is a nice transitional step for those that want to learn how to draft patterns but may be intimidated. Kind of like training wheels. Hopefully, they will gain confidence and see that they are capable of creating a block and drafting from there. Also, I think The Closet Historian is wonderful and I love her sense of humor! ❤
I got lost as soon as you started on the pattern. I'm out.
Being realstic patterns are made to fit white women who have more sloped shoulders, less rounded hips, less bust than black women, so we cannot buy them and just cut as I see some women doing.
Lets go back to cave men & women days where there were no sewing patterns ruling our brains , lets jus go back to wearing what they wore , boy that would be sew refreshing , wouldnt it ? 😂
Too complicated
Click bait I’m not interested in vintage patterns. You could have put that in your title.
Oh dear. Please don't blame me, blame RUclips's algorithm. Despite my channel's name being ModernRETROWoman, a channel description that highlights the fact that I make content about information from the mid-20th century that can be used today, a video description that says I'll be showing how to draft a 1950s slip, and behind the scenes hashtags that make it clear that this is a video about vintage sewing, the algorithm still decided to show the thumbnail to you. I assure you that clickbait was never the intention.
@@themodernretrowoman Your title should reference “Vintage “
@@dcwatashiso just go watch other videos. Problem solved. Negative comments are not necessary. This lady is not a mind reader so cannot tailor a title so YOU will know not to watch it.🙄
@@gerriebell2128 you’re the one with all of the negativity. Obviously, you don’t know much about RUclips because if they are people specifically looking for vintage patterns, they’re not going to find her video.
Besides, I didn’t ask for your opinion. Move along.
@@dcwatashi and she didn’t ask for yours. But we both are allowed to express our opinions, aren’t we? Have a nice day.
How can i incorporate this method into using my existing well fitted clothing to duplicate the garments instead of using a pattern.
Alas, as far as I know, you can't. This method is designed to be used with a pattern. However, this video from WithWendy might help you achieve your goal: ruclips.net/video/KeJjB-bdzuI/видео.html