My wife wants one for etching glass. Apparently, you can do it with 10 watts. Showed her my research and she's checking her bank account... I left out the part about how excellent it would be for cutting motor mounts and other goodies for planes. Sometimes, it's what you don't say that's important!
Can you please help me ...idk why but the laser read that the work area begining from somewhere in the middle of the original and continue out from the laser ...(sorry i know bad english) ...but if ypu know what I talking about ,please help me to repair this problem..❤
Yep laser makes parts easy, and for foam board construction saves finger tip from sharp razors problem is size . Most table top lasers are too short . Extended mine with some new side rails, 20x30 inch foam board fits with room to spare . However the ability for second pass is lost which limits wood cutting to about 2 mm . Lo k for small spars . Take care.
Looking at cutting in the next video. I've found a pre 'cut test' on the material avoids the issues with offset second seperate pass as you can add the extra passes into the job from the start... happy flying!
I used a piece of mdf that the lasercutter is clipped into and then engraved a 100x100m grid over the sheet. I just line up the wood to be cut onto the grid, home the laser and start cutting. I had sockets with screw hole 3d printed that the feet are placed into and it's perfectly aligned each time the laser has been moved around
I just searched for laser engraver in one of those stores from China... And it actually seems pretty reasonable. It's definitely not cheap, but I saw things much more expensive there. 😬
Hi Lee Great video and review of the S10. I have a friend who ingraves wood boxes for ammo and he has had it with the ingavers in this town. And he may like this video.
The part that connects the Y axis motor to the Y axis has some screws that are too large and are not hidden, which causes them to collide with the X axis motor. This part comes assembled from the factory and it is completely impossible for it to have passed the control of operation. as it is intended to show the label that comes a few centimeters from the part with problems
I've cut a few balsa models using my atomstack a5 with lightburn, with thicker balsa I just do 2 or more passes. I stick the balsa with double sided tape to the mdf board, bit of a hassle cleaning, but prevents the bad quality balsa from curling up and getting stuck on the lasers shielding plates
@@stephenkolenic303 Thanks Stephan, I am more interested in how the cad software part works, how to get a rib or similar off a printed plan and into whatever software controls the burn
@@peterhancox5268 download plans from www.aerofred.com or www.outerzone.co.uk check out the following plan on outerzone, oz12729 thermale Aquila Elektro 3.0m glider, PDF file that is ready to be cut. Import it into lightburn, move the sections that you want to cut, in and out of the cutting area.
Nice!. Im not a laser expert, but I would advise you to get a proper laser safety glasses. I been told ( by someone who knows about lasers) that those that come with the laser are ususally not that good. Try to find a video on YT where someone tested some cheap laser safety goggles
On a bigger job 5 is going to take forever ( per the recommendation ), can I increase the speed to 600 and 50% power but make 2 passes and get the same results ? Or is my 10w to powerful ? I have a 5.5 w now and am in the process of the upgrade . I know I need to play around with the settings , and I will , but what are your thoughts on it ? I use Basswood and Bamboo and Pine mostly but am trying red cedar , oak and others soon , I just started after Christmas .
When I have thoughts like this I tend to run a cutting test on the edge of the material. Have a number of 10mm lines and vary the speed, power and number of passes to see which one works best then use that for the job itself. Does how to do this need a video?
why after i follow all the steps, but the laser engrave result not same like what i setting？it becomes some vector shape（but i import the image actually） is it need to click any button before start？
Without seeing what you're doing it is tricky to comment. You must be missing some steps. The preview in Lightburn will show you what the laser will do...
Make sure you are subscribed and have the bell notification icon selected so you don't miss content. It's in the community tab on the channel and I also posted it on Instagram. 50mm
Wow! Thank you! Happy engraving! Check out the series where there are lots more basic 'how-tos' for engraving, cutting and designing using the S10 and Lightburn - ruclips.net/p/PLYsWjANuAm4o7qk6dEGR68387Mtd2ngyC
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My wife wants one for etching glass. Apparently, you can do it with 10 watts. Showed her my research and she's checking her bank account...
I left out the part about how excellent it would be for cutting motor mounts and other goodies for planes. Sometimes, it's what you don't say that's important!
Thanks for an informative video. One tip, if you hold the Shift key when hit "Frame" it will turn the laser on at 1% to show you the "Frame" lit up.
Can you please help me ...idk why but the laser read that the work area begining from somewhere in the middle of the original and continue out from the laser ...(sorry i know bad english) ...but if ypu know what I talking about ,please help me to repair this problem..❤
Sounds like you need to set the origin for your laser in the software. Best of luck
Nice video as usually. You can use the Library tool to store your cut/engrave settings for different materials
Yep laser makes parts easy, and for foam board construction saves finger tip from sharp razors problem is size . Most table top lasers are too short . Extended mine with some new side rails, 20x30 inch foam board fits with room to spare . However the ability for second pass is lost which limits wood cutting to about 2 mm . Lo k for small spars . Take care.
That's actually a pretty good idea. Noted!
Looking at cutting in the next video. I've found a pre 'cut test' on the material avoids the issues with offset second seperate pass as you can add the extra passes into the job from the start... happy flying!
I used a piece of mdf that the lasercutter is clipped into and then engraved a 100x100m grid over the sheet. I just line up the wood to be cut onto the grid, home the laser and start cutting. I had sockets with screw hole 3d printed that the feet are placed into and it's perfectly aligned each time the laser has been moved around
Smart idea!
Fantastic looking machine, Lee! I really liked it! 😃
It's definitely entering my wishlist!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Looks pretty cool, is the price considered reasonable for this type of product ?
I just searched for laser engraver in one of those stores from China... And it actually seems pretty reasonable. It's definitely not cheap, but I saw things much more expensive there. 😬
Hi Lee Great video and review of the S10. I have a friend who ingraves wood boxes for ammo and he has had it with the ingavers in this town. And he may like this video.
The part that connects the Y axis motor to the Y axis has some screws that are too large and are not hidden, which causes them to collide with the X axis motor. This part comes assembled from the factory and it is completely impossible for it to have passed the control of operation. as it is intended to show the label that comes a few centimeters from the part with problems
Hi Lee, just a short question from a nube...Your scale shows mm/s, but my sculpfun s10 shows it a mm/min. I'm confused. Loved the video by the way.
You can change the default scale in the app settings... Best of luck
thank you so much for making this easier for me to understand!~
Would love to see a wing rib or similar on a printed plan end up cut out of say 3mm balsa
I've cut a few balsa models using my atomstack a5 with lightburn, with thicker balsa I just do 2 or more passes. I stick the balsa with double sided tape to the mdf board, bit of a hassle cleaning, but prevents the bad quality balsa from curling up and getting stuck on the lasers shielding plates
@@stephenkolenic303 Thanks Stephan, I am more interested in how the cad software part works, how to get a rib or similar off a printed plan and into whatever software controls the burn
You'd need to scan that so you could import it... ruclips.net/video/Hs13zXoeh1k/видео.html will help :D
@@peterhancox5268 download plans from www.aerofred.com or www.outerzone.co.uk check out the following plan on outerzone, oz12729 thermale Aquila Elektro 3.0m glider, PDF file that is ready to be cut. Import it into lightburn, move the sections that you want to cut, in and out of the cutting area.
Nice!. Im not a laser expert, but I would advise you to get a proper laser safety glasses. I been told ( by someone who knows about lasers) that those that come with the laser are ususally not that good.
Try to find a video on YT where someone tested some cheap laser safety goggles
Thanks for the comment, I'll look into it.. Happy flying
On a bigger job 5 is going to take forever ( per the recommendation ), can I increase the speed to 600 and 50% power but make 2 passes and get the same results ? Or is my 10w to powerful ? I have a 5.5 w now and am in the process of the upgrade . I know I need to play around with the settings , and I will , but what are your thoughts on it ? I use Basswood and Bamboo and Pine mostly but am trying red cedar , oak and others soon , I just started after Christmas .
When I have thoughts like this I tend to run a cutting test on the edge of the material. Have a number of 10mm lines and vary the speed, power and number of passes to see which one works best then use that for the job itself. Does how to do this need a video?
If i may ask, did you have the air assist on during the engraving of the pill? I have the s30 10w, and having some troubles taming it.
I did. Happy flying
why after i follow all the steps, but the laser engrave result not same like what i setting？it becomes some vector shape（but i import the image actually） is it need to click any button before start？
Without seeing what you're doing it is tricky to comment. You must be missing some steps. The preview in Lightburn will show you what the laser will do...
Thanks for the video! Where did you get the holder for the measuring column? Did you 3D print it?
I designed it. Happy flying!
I know you from the RC stuff, but now thanks to you I was able to run my first wood engraving successfully! Thank you very much! God bless you sir ☺️
Glad you found it useful. I was after videos like this when my engraver arrived... Happy cutting!
Thanks for video all sorted now
nice macine. stay safe Lee
Really nice bit of kit , 👍
Very good video, could you please show how to cut because this is my problem. I can't find how to cut it.
Check out the other videos in the series, I cover that. Slower speed, 100% power and potentially multiple passes... best of luck
@@Painless360 Thank you very much for your reply!!!You are amazing!!
Hi Lee, where does the air tube go? does it come with some form of extraction pump?
It comes with a mains powered air compressor. See my first video on unboxing and building... happy flying!
hello, very nice video. Can i ask you the size of metal rod from 16:05 becouse i lost it. Thanks!
No problem - post on that in the community section for you! :D
@@Painless360 where is that community
Make sure you are subscribed and have the bell notification icon selected so you don't miss content. It's in the community tab on the channel and I also posted it on Instagram. 50mm
Thanks
Wow! Thank you! Happy engraving! Check out the series where there are lots more basic 'how-tos' for engraving, cutting and designing using the S10 and Lightburn - ruclips.net/p/PLYsWjANuAm4o7qk6dEGR68387Mtd2ngyC
Good afternoon. And how to set up to cut out of 3mm plywood? And how many mm can it cut?
Next two videos showing cutting are in the playlist... Happy flying