I bought a five years old used Anet A8 and rebuild it from the ground (that’s my fifth printer ^^) for fun and improve my build skills. Your video are really helpful, thanks for all that content!! Keep going!!
Wenn ich die Kosten von 2 Mosfetschaltern mit den Kosten für ein neues Board vergleiche, lohnt sich der Aufwand kaum, zumal sich durch die aufwändigere Verdrahtung neue Fehler einschleichen können. Ich bin aber durch das Video nachdenklich geworden. Eine 10A und eine 20A Sicherung auf dem Board (SKR 1.4) finde ich auch mehr als fragwürdig. Werde deshalb das Hotend und das Bed mit einer Feinsicherung direkt an den Boardklemmen absichern. 2A fürs 30W Hotend und 8A für das 140W Bed. Prima Video, weiter so.
Priority 1 is to enclose the mains connections while supplying a switch and fuse. There are plenty other defects about the A8 but the exposed mains connections are an order of magnitude worse than the other defects. If you can't design your own cover there are plenty available on Thingyverse.
To connect the Mosfets you said you used 2.5mmsq. Would like to know where to get? I believe that translates to 14 AWG but wanted to make sure? Thanks for time.
I have just purchased an Anet A8 and have put it together with quiet good success, however I am having difficulty getting it to print. The first thing I printed was the token from the mini SD card. It did fair but had a surface that was not so good. I am trying to download upgrade parts to print from thingiverse but have been unable to print any of them. I download from thingiverse to my HP laptop which is running Windows 10. The files that I download are zip files. I unzip them to a downloads file in my laptop then copy that file to the F storage which is where the mini SD card is located. Then I put the mini SD card in the main board of the Anet A8. I then select the load button and I get a list of items in the print file. I select the print file that I want to print and select print and the printer control board either shows “idle” or sometimes if shows that it is printing, showing Flow Rate, Print Speed, bed temp and hot end temp to be ok but the printhead (extruder) does not move. I hand prime the extruder before trying to print, my bed is level (printing on glass) and hight of nozzle above the bed is 2 mm. I do not know if I am not maneuvering the download correctly or if there is something else wrong. I have replaced the main board and the control unit one at a time and neither made any change so I put the factory ones back in. I am at a stand still. If you could make any suggestions it would be greatly appreciated. Keep up the great videos.
Hi Clifford, congratulations for building that printer first. Now to help you, just to get things a bit clearer for me, what type of files are you copying over? STL or GCODE files?
You need to use a slicer software like Cura to convert this file into gcode first. Then this file will contain print commands. Stl is just a CAD drawing not understood by your printer.
There are quite a few 30A PSU mounts/adapters on Thingiverse so you won't need to drill any holes in A8 frame just install a new PSU using printed adapter with existing mount holes.
Good feedback, thanks for that!. It definitely will make mounting the PSU easier. What do you think about the rest of the upgrades? Useful and improving? Any other safety ideas? I was thinking about linking a smoke sensor to a power outlet switch to turn of the printer asap the sensor detects smoke. Also I was looking for fire distinguishers that can be mounted above the printer that automatically release when a fire should arise. They are not cheap but I am a little paranoid since I saw the recent pictures posted by people's burning printers.
@@Crosslink3D 30A Power supply and MOSFETs are really good upgrades and definitely useful. But I honestly don't think that fire distinguisher is a really necessary add-on. I haven't seen any photos of "burning" printers, but I don't believe printer will really burn your house to the ground if you install electronic Circuit breaker and right MOSFETs. Now... I have a question about 3D Touch sensor installation, actually it's not about sensor but rather about Marlin configuration - so I know Marlin in its default configuration with 3D Touch auto-leveling, large LCD screen and and buzzer support wont feet ATmega328P controller memory (A8 board is based on it). what you said in your video is that you had to use Optiboot to flash Marlin, but even then you had to disable some functions in Marlin to feet new firmware into ATmega328P. So question is what can we safely disable in Marlin in case if we want to have large LCD AND 3D Touch auto-leveling support? Ok, I can disable buzzer, I dont give a damn about it, I can also disable startup logo. What else? BTW you should have explained it in you video clearly. Thanks.
Well, it's running full speed for me, so its just noise because it blows a lot of air. probably could be a bit more silent if I would find a way to control speed. It's a bit overpowered. Any idea what to use to control fan speed?
You can control parts cooling fan speed in your slicer or in the printers tune menu while printing. I"m not sure how to control the other fans. Maybe a resistor. Also, fans have a noise rating. The fan you linked to is rated at 31.0Db. I might try this fan, www.ebay.com/itm/Scythe-Mini-Kaze-50mm-4500RPM-Case-Fan/332852509616?epid=1502882407&hash=item4d7f8e3bb0:g:KgoAAOSwVEBb0NyE:rk:2:pf:0. It's rated at 26.09dBA . Also, I think the little 40mm parts cooling fan is the loudest so I may get this fan, www.ebay.com/itm/Scythe-SY124010L-Mini-KAZE-40mm-Silent-Case-Fan/322539028754?epid=3016722625&hash=item4b18d30112:g:eskAAOSwPh5ZMEot:rk:17:pf:0. It's rated at 14.00dBA. And I installed an inductive bed level sensor that is working great, and I print on glass. It's LJ18A3-8-Z/BX 8mm NPN Inductive Proximity NO Switch DC 6-36V. It's 12v which is much more accurate and reliable and probes farther than 5v sensor. But you need to solder a diode in the wiring or you can damage the Anet mainboard. The diode is 1N5231B 5.1V 5V Zener Diode 0.5W 500mW DO-35. The wiring instructions are on a RUclips video. If anyone wants the link let me know.
Maybe some PWM controller might do the job: www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-DC-5A-Motor-PWM-Speed-Controller-3-35V-Speed-Control-Switch-LED-Dimmer/201533353831?hash=item2eec52ef67:g:IaMAAOSwCMFaL6iX:rk:7:pf:0. Will try one of these to reduce the speed of the fan. It definitely blows like a storm.
Sorry, I got the wrong link. Mine was from eBay and I tried to find a similar one on Amazon. Will do more research. In the meanwhile I put in the eBay link. Mine does not have a cover for the pins 😔
I used one of the upper frame holes to mount it and drilled new holes for the lower mounts. That's ok! There is also adapters on thingiverse for the new psu mounts.
More good info on upgrades and safety, one safety feature I would add is a fused switch cover for the terminal end of the power supply so that the 220V cannot be easily got it. From a electrical equipment test point of view, the power supply would fail because there is nothing apart from a lift up cover to stop you touching the terminals when the power is on.1 such cover is this one. www.thingiverse.com/thing:1798604
Thanks for bringing that up. I definitely missed that one and have added it to the comment section of the video. Added one STL link for the 30A and one for the 20A version, they are a bit different in size. Also linked the needed switch.
Yep, this right here. Was a great video, but this is the number one safety upgrade you can make. You also want to use the "press-in" type C14 socket for the cover like this. People have designed enclosures for the screw-in type, but those are meant for grounded metal chassis.
I see a lot of videos that promote this same power supply. My question is why use a 30amp power supply if it's not connected to a 30 amp breaker. In america, 30 amps aren't that common, or are used for like a range. I'm no electrician, so correct me if I am wrong. This seems like overkill.
I bought a five years old used Anet A8 and rebuild it from the ground (that’s my fifth printer ^^) for fun and improve my build skills.
Your video are really helpful, thanks for all that content!! Keep going!!
Thanks so much for all of your series on the Anet A8 its really helped me out
Wenn ich die Kosten von 2 Mosfetschaltern mit den Kosten für ein neues Board vergleiche, lohnt sich der Aufwand kaum, zumal sich durch die aufwändigere Verdrahtung neue Fehler einschleichen können.
Ich bin aber durch das Video nachdenklich geworden. Eine 10A und eine 20A Sicherung auf dem Board (SKR 1.4) finde ich auch mehr als fragwürdig.
Werde deshalb das Hotend und das Bed mit einer Feinsicherung direkt an den Boardklemmen absichern.
2A fürs 30W Hotend und 8A für das 140W Bed.
Prima Video, weiter so.
Priority 1 is to enclose the mains connections while supplying a switch and fuse.
There are plenty other defects about the A8 but the exposed mains connections are an order of magnitude worse than the other defects.
If you can't design your own cover there are plenty available on Thingyverse.
Can you provide some circuit schematics on how to connect all the wires of the mosfets
To connect the Mosfets you said you used 2.5mmsq. Would like to know where to get? I believe that translates to 14 AWG but wanted to make sure? Thanks for time.
Anyone know if there is a circuit diagram available for the mosfet upgrade as I want to double check my workings before i botch things up.
I have just purchased an Anet A8 and have put it together with quiet good success, however I am having difficulty getting it to print. The first thing I printed was the token from the mini SD card. It did fair but had a surface that was not so good. I am trying to download upgrade parts to print from thingiverse but have been unable to print any of them. I download from thingiverse to my HP laptop which is running Windows 10. The files that I download are zip files. I unzip them to a downloads file in my laptop then copy that file to the F storage which is where the mini SD card is located. Then I put the mini SD card in the main board of the Anet A8. I then select the load button and I get a list of items in the print file. I select the print file that I want to print and select print and the printer control board either shows
“idle” or sometimes if shows that it is printing, showing Flow Rate, Print Speed, bed temp and hot end temp to be ok but the printhead (extruder) does not move. I hand prime the extruder before trying to print, my bed is level (printing on glass) and hight of nozzle above the bed is 2 mm. I do not know if I am not maneuvering the download correctly or if there is something else wrong. I have replaced the main board and the control unit one at a time and neither made any change so I put the factory ones back in. I am at a stand still. If you could make any suggestions it would be greatly appreciated. Keep up the great videos.
Hi Clifford, congratulations for building that printer first. Now to help you, just to get things a bit clearer for me, what type of files are you copying over? STL or GCODE files?
Crosslink The files that I am copying are stl files.
You need to use a slicer software like Cura to convert this file into gcode first. Then this file will contain print commands. Stl is just a CAD drawing not understood by your printer.
What is the hot bed connector stained with?
There are quite a few 30A PSU mounts/adapters on Thingiverse so you won't need to drill any holes in A8 frame just install a new PSU using printed adapter with existing mount holes.
Good feedback, thanks for that!. It definitely will make mounting the PSU easier. What do you think about the rest of the upgrades? Useful and improving? Any other safety ideas? I was thinking about linking a smoke sensor to a power outlet switch to turn of the printer asap the sensor detects smoke. Also I was looking for fire distinguishers that can be mounted above the printer that automatically release when a fire should arise. They are not cheap but I am a little paranoid since I saw the recent pictures posted by people's burning printers.
@@Crosslink3D 30A Power supply and MOSFETs are really good upgrades and definitely useful. But I honestly don't think that fire distinguisher is a really necessary add-on. I haven't seen any photos of "burning" printers, but I don't believe printer will really burn your house to the ground if you install electronic Circuit breaker and right MOSFETs. Now... I have a question about 3D Touch sensor installation, actually it's not about sensor but rather about Marlin configuration - so I know Marlin in its default configuration with 3D Touch auto-leveling, large LCD screen and and buzzer support wont feet ATmega328P controller memory (A8 board is based on it). what you said in your video is that you had to use Optiboot to flash Marlin, but even then you had to disable some functions in Marlin to feet new firmware into ATmega328P. So question is what can we safely disable in Marlin in case if we want to have large LCD AND 3D Touch auto-leveling support? Ok, I can disable buzzer, I dont give a damn about it, I can also disable startup logo. What else? BTW you should have explained it in you video clearly.
Thanks.
What screws and nuts did you use to mount the mosfets onto the mosfet holder?
I"m glad they upgraded that dangerous bed connector. Is the Sunon fan quiet?
Well, it's running full speed for me, so its just noise because it blows a lot of air. probably could be a bit more silent if I would find a way to control speed. It's a bit overpowered. Any idea what to use to control fan speed?
You can control parts cooling fan speed in your slicer or in the printers tune menu while printing. I"m not sure how to control the other fans. Maybe a resistor.
Also, fans have a noise rating. The fan you linked to is rated at 31.0Db. I might try this fan, www.ebay.com/itm/Scythe-Mini-Kaze-50mm-4500RPM-Case-Fan/332852509616?epid=1502882407&hash=item4d7f8e3bb0:g:KgoAAOSwVEBb0NyE:rk:2:pf:0. It's rated at 26.09dBA . Also, I think the little 40mm parts cooling fan is the loudest so I may get this fan, www.ebay.com/itm/Scythe-SY124010L-Mini-KAZE-40mm-Silent-Case-Fan/322539028754?epid=3016722625&hash=item4b18d30112:g:eskAAOSwPh5ZMEot:rk:17:pf:0. It's rated at 14.00dBA.
And I installed an inductive bed level sensor that is working great, and I print on glass. It's LJ18A3-8-Z/BX 8mm NPN Inductive Proximity NO Switch DC 6-36V. It's 12v which is much more accurate and reliable and probes farther than 5v sensor. But you need to solder a diode in the wiring or you can damage the Anet mainboard. The diode is 1N5231B 5.1V 5V Zener Diode 0.5W 500mW DO-35. The wiring instructions are on a RUclips video. If anyone wants the link let me know.
Maybe some PWM controller might do the job: www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-DC-5A-Motor-PWM-Speed-Controller-3-35V-Speed-Control-Switch-LED-Dimmer/201533353831?hash=item2eec52ef67:g:IaMAAOSwCMFaL6iX:rk:7:pf:0. Will try one of these to reduce the speed of the fan. It definitely blows like a storm.
Did you read the reviews on amazone about the 30A power supply ???
Sorry, I got the wrong link. Mine was from eBay and I tried to find a similar one on Amazon. Will do more research. In the meanwhile I put in the eBay link. Mine does not have a cover for the pins 😔
I have replaced the links with better ones. Gearbest has some good rated ones and mine from eBay is holding up so far very well.
Could you provide the links the for files and parts
Thanks for pointing out. Just fixed that. Missed to copy the latest version of the description ;-)
I have a question i bought my power supply from Amazon but I couldn't get the screw holes to line up all..
I used one of the upper frame holes to mount it and drilled new holes for the lower mounts. That's ok! There is also adapters on thingiverse for the new psu mounts.
i just ziptied the bed cable to oneof the main board standoffs to prevent it getting jammed.
More good info on upgrades and safety, one safety feature I would add is a fused switch cover for the terminal end of the power supply so that the 220V cannot be easily got it. From a electrical equipment test point of view, the power supply would fail because there is nothing apart from a lift up cover to stop you touching the terminals when the power is on.1 such cover is this one. www.thingiverse.com/thing:1798604
Thanks for bringing that up. I definitely missed that one and have added it to the comment section of the video. Added one STL link for the 30A and one for the 20A version, they are a bit different in size. Also linked the needed switch.
Yep, this right here. Was a great video, but this is the number one safety upgrade you can make.
You also want to use the "press-in" type C14 socket for the cover like this. People have designed enclosures for the screw-in type, but those are meant for grounded metal chassis.
For reference I use a 540w 12v PSU from hobbyking for charging lipo chargers.. the printer uses 13.5amps..
👍
Danke Bruder, du bist locker deutscher
Would put Bowden upgrade on your list
Yes, that one is definitely a good idea. I am strongly interested in testing out Bowden. Will investigate in the best option a bit.
You didn't show the wiring???
I see a lot of videos that promote this same power supply. My question is why use a 30amp power supply if it's not connected to a 30 amp breaker. In america, 30 amps aren't that common, or are used for like a range. I'm no electrician, so correct me if I am wrong. This seems like overkill.
That is 30@ 12VDC i.e.360 watts or about 3 amps from your 120VAC mains.
@@mikenewman4078 thanks Mike but i really dont understand what you are saying