Thanks for answering my question! That definitely helps. I would love to mountain bike more. But after an hour of climbing for 10 minutes downhill, im pretty beat. I really want one of these
Looking forward to your “modifications” video. I’m not usually interested in e-bikes but this one is interesting, probably because it is mid-drive. Carry on…
Hey Kev just wanted to let you know on hypers website they actually list the torque at 110nm, this could line up with vinka's c20 motor that has a "peak torque" of 110nm and a "max effective toque" of 80nm though.
That fork is wild... Suntour makes a Boost and standard 100 OLD version of that fork. I wonder if Suntour slapped on a bunch of XCM32 Boost stickers to get the order done because they ran out of the standard XCM32 stickers.
Bushings are a better option for low speed, heavy loads than bearings are, so it is actually a better choice for suspension pivots. When properly lubed, they should last longer than bearings and provide better stiffness. This information is pretty easy to verify.
@@KevCentral that’s awesome news, I like the 141QR because you can easily fit a 148 with different end caps. I have mine almost completely set up with an air fork (140mm travel), hydrolic brakes, cassette with acolite group set and better tires. Just waiting on a rear shock bushings to install a different shock.
Thanks for putting my question in the video even if you didn't have an answer! The reason I asked is because the "250w" is just the rating of the motor, most if not all "250w" emtb's peak a lot higher than this wattage and it makes comparing motor powers hard when you can't find any real data online. For example the bosch performance gen 4 cx is a "250w" motor but the peak wattage has been seen over 800w+ and that motor keeps up with a different manufacture's (bafang m600) motor which has a 18 amp controller or around 1000w on a full charge. Most of these big motor companies don't list the real spec's and don't let users change them, bafang the manufacture of the motor I compared it too does though so that's how I know for sure.
I had a bike with a 44/44 headset and I fitted a tapered fork with no problem. Admittedly it’s not really in keeping with the KC budget ethos, but check out a Hope H-EC44/40 lower cup. 👍
I assume that fork is mislabeled as it's definitely non-boost with the 15x100 axle. That's actually a good thing because you'd have trouble finding a non-taper boost fork. There are a few more straight steerer non-boost forks out there if you are planning to swap. It is slightly strange to see a non-boost fork combined with a boost rear end (even if we are talking about QR Boost141). Polygon does that on some of their bikes, like the Xtrada 7 I had a while back. My opinion is they should have built a slightly up spec'd hardtail with this mid-drive setup. I can't fathom spending that much money on a bike with plastic bushing pivots. For the same $1500, I'd rather see a hardtail with the same Microshift 1x9 as the Kent Truvaille. Kent would have a real winner if they built that.
@@KevCentral I'd still rather see bearings on any suspension framr, particularly one with the extra weight and power being sent through that rear end (I suspect they "uprated the bishings to metal for this reason, but still not good enough imo). I'd think a $1500 hardtail emtb with Advent 1x9 would make a pretty decent ride.
Another great vid! I think you're right about the torque spec being for a lock ring. My Bafang motors have a lock ring there, also labeled for the torque of the lock ring. If the battery is 36 volts you can figure out the amps used by the controller using the peak motor output. Amps X Volts = Watts. Assuming that the motor is actually 250 Watts (probably peaks higher) and the battery has 36 Volts (it's actually around 39 fully charged) it's using around 7 Amps. I'd bet that it's got a 10 amp controller and on a fully charged battery the power will peak (momentarilay) to around 390 Watts.
Have you decided what wheel set your going to use..."bucklos"?? I'm thinking about buying a set for my bike. What do you think about them. Anyway look forward to seeing the upgrades you have in mind.
142 rear and 100mm front is not boost spacing. 148x12 and 15 or 20 x 110 is boost spacing. You can add a tapered fork to that frame with a EC 44/40 lower headset.
I wanted to do a quick comparison versus Giant's cheapest E-bike. The hyper comes in at $1500, and the Giant Stance E+ 2 comes in at $4,400 (on sale for $3800). motor torque: giant - 70Nm hyper - 110Nm Battery: giant - 500Wh hyper - 380Wh Frame: giant - aluminum hyper - aluminum Suspension: giant - 130mm front suntour, & suntour rear hyper - 100mm front suntour, & exa form rear Gears: giant - shimano 10 speed hyper - shimano 7 speed brakes: giant - 203mm hydraulic disc hyper - 160mm mechanical disk tires: giant - maxxis hyper - no name If you did the same upgrade package as the aluminum comp and swapped out the tires its looking like: tires - $120 - 2x maxxis rekons $120 shifter - $95 - 1x10 advent X shifter & derailleur rear cassette - $63 - microshift 11-48T Chain - $25 - shimano tiagra Brakes - $70 - Shimano MT200 Rear wheel w/ cassette - $100 total parts = $473 total bike that is just about on par = $1973 If you want a basic suspension package you really only need to swap out the front Front forks - $300 - rockshox recon Total bike with better front suspension = $2273 Then if you want to really go performance: Front Forks - $520 - Marzocchi bomber z2 rear shock - $309 - Bomber CR Total bike with insanely better suspension - $2802 + or - a hundred bucks based on other accessories, but for the price, this bike with upgrades blows the next best thing out of the water
Probably everyone has on this. Is Most would go Giant because of 1 reason. It's not a Walmart bike. Everyone is scared to high beans that a walmart bike will never perform as good as a branded bike. They take a single look at this compared to others and barf because the size of the bike itself make it seem weak. The thinner frame style and smaller size bike compared to other brands that make them look SUPER buffed and strong. Is what turns people away. Though a funny fact that those people don't understand.........Is This bike is STRONGER in terms of durability and strength then those branded bikes are. Even though it's smaller and looks thin. The tube gauge inside the frame IS THICKER. That heaviness to the bike makes it much more durability due to the thicker frame gauge. Compared to the branded bikes. The only reason they LOOK buff is because they widen the frame to make the frame metal THINNER gauged. To give it stiffness and lightness. But in terms of overall durability and strength. A good whack to the frame will destroy those bikes in a instant. But a good smack on these frames. (For instance a bat.) This will only suffer a bend. Compared to a brand bike that'll likely bend MUCH easier and likely show a crack or so. I mean both have their pros and cons. But that's the biggest factor people stay clear that they don't understand. Both bikes are MADE exactly the same metal alloy's now. Compared to the Steel version bikes that made with high carbon steel vs Omi Steel, That made a light and day difference between both them. Now adays Both bikes are made the exact same alloy's and strengths. Thicker gauge metal alum makes a HUGE difference then thinning out alum metal to make lightness. A thick alum will withstand much more abuse then a thinner version will. And this IE the Hyper will perform way better. Even if it's Heavier. That heaviness is the whole factor that makes the bike really strong.
@@KevCentral I use one on my Hyper Carbon X. Nothing wrong with it other than adding 10mm to your axle-to-crown + slackening head angle by 0.5 degrees.
Really looking at getting this bike but trying to consider what will stop this from being totally useless bike in 5 years of normal use? No guarantees a replacement motor and batteries will be around in that time. For instance the budget XR Pro has been around for 10 years and is still a good entry level mtb. Hoping to generate conversation and at the same time get opinions of the actual owners of the mid drive E-Ride.
You should try out a btwin bike I never heard of the company before but it seems like that have some pretty good bikes for about 300 dollars. And for that you get a one by drive train a fork with lockout and disk brakes. And the bike looks pretty nice.
Did you replace the rear hub with freehub, wondering if you think 141 QR or 135? Seems like frame is 141 with wheel off but the existing wheel is 135 freewheel and bolt on squeezes the dropouts together to 135
You may have mentioned this already, and I might have missed. Is the front chainring replaceable? Also, it seems like you have connections with Hyper. Any word on their upcoming bikes? Especially the carbon x replacement?
Chainring is replaceable. As far as new bikes, don’t expect much from any mfg for 2023. Bike industry is in a tight spot right now, and most new bikes have been pushed to 2024. That said, a few bikes will trickle out. Hyper will, I’m sure, keep that (if they have any) close to the vest until they release anything. Carbon X replacement? Carbon X 29er is still available. Do you know something I don’t? 😎
am I crazy or does this bike NOT have a narrow wide chainring? Maybe a future upgrade, since I know you dropped the chain once. You'd think they would include a narrow wide chainring to go along with the chain guide.
@@KevCentral narrow wide is better than chain guide. it keeps the chain naturally secure over bumps, removes more mud from the chain if you ride in mud. even if you have a chain guide the narrow wide chainring will prevent almost all of the rubbing of the chain against the guide
@@geemy9675 I was getting some chain drops with this bike, switched to a narrow wide chain ring and it absolutely cured the issue. The chain guide position can be improved with some bench grinder machining also.
For the mid-drive version? No. But the 29/26er likely. I been focus on trying to go that route with my 26inch version. It's already turned into the best monster. I'm the only one that upgraded this hyper bike to a insane amount.
Is there an aftermarket battery out to get further miles out of the bike. I'm 36 miles from work but have a compact bike trail that goes from my house in Kenosha Wisconsin to the Navy base in Great Lakes Illinois.
What kind of wattage does that motor put out? I think most of these 250w mid drives usually max a little over 550w. Curious if it has enough power to get the job done.
What is the stand-over height from the top of the junction of the seat and horizontal tubes to the ground? Is there proper clearance to run an 8 speed 11-34 freewheel without changing side spacers? Has anyone had success with going tubeless with these wheels and tires? Is the chainring a narrow wide? How low can you set the air pressure on the rear shock to be soft for a light rider? Since the travel ratio is minimal, it would seem the rear would always be stiff, even at the lowest air pressure setting. Does the Vinka Life app work with the Hyper bike? BTW, Oil impregnated bushings can take more load than a roller or needle bearing when rotational needs are minimal, so going with this for the rear pivot points is not necessarily a disadvantage.
He was doing 10 miles of trail riding. So he is saying it took him long then an hour to do 10 miles. If you can do 20 miles an hour in the woods consistently then you have bigger balls then me.
The Mid-drive and 29er are spec'd at 29inch wheels. This is the largest normal Bicycles go for now. So you likely won't be able to go larger. Unless you mean in Width size like say a 2.5. That i don't know for the mid/29er. But the 26version i have only can accept 2.2 maybe at most. The rear frame size is very narrow.
They must have sent you the original "rough draft" design file, but I'm guessing they had to make wheel upgrades for strength down the line and never updated the drawing, hence the boost spacing
That's weird that that's 15×100. If it's real boost it should be 15×110mm so idk if that's just a sticker because it's a thru axle?? It's not a real boost in my opinion idk why they would put that on there.
That wouldn’t be on Walmart; that would be on Hyper. I’ve seen bike standards be somewhat pliable in the past, so I took a cautious approach since I didn’t know if there was some use of 15x100 noted as Boost somewhere I wasn’t aware.
Good catch on the fork
Thanks for answering my question! That definitely helps. I would love to mountain bike more. But after an hour of climbing for 10 minutes downhill, im pretty beat. I really want one of these
Looking forward to your “modifications” video. I’m not usually interested in e-bikes but this one is interesting, probably because it is mid-drive. Carry on…
Hey Kev just wanted to let you know on hypers website they actually list the torque at 110nm, this could line up with vinka's c20 motor that has a "peak torque" of 110nm and a "max effective toque" of 80nm though.
That fork is wild... Suntour makes a Boost and standard 100 OLD version of that fork. I wonder if Suntour slapped on a bunch of XCM32 Boost stickers to get the order done because they ran out of the standard XCM32 stickers.
Bushings are a better option for low speed, heavy loads than bearings are, so it is actually a better choice for suspension pivots. When properly lubed, they should last longer than bearings and provide better stiffness. This information is pretty easy to verify.
Those are all 8mm, to replace with sealed bearings is about $25
Mine measured 135mm in the back. I also built a wheel with a 135mm cassette and it works just fine.
Thanks for sharing. This one is 142, so maybe they updated
@@KevCentral that’s awesome news, I like the 141QR because you can easily fit a 148 with different end caps.
I have mine almost completely set up with an air fork (140mm travel), hydrolic brakes, cassette with acolite group set and better tires. Just waiting on a rear shock bushings to install a different shock.
Thanks for putting my question in the video even if you didn't have an answer! The reason I asked is because the "250w" is just the rating of the motor, most if not all "250w" emtb's peak a lot higher than this wattage and it makes comparing motor powers hard when you can't find any real data online. For example the bosch performance gen 4 cx is a "250w" motor but the peak wattage has been seen over 800w+ and that motor keeps up with a different manufacture's (bafang m600) motor which has a 18 amp controller or around 1000w on a full charge. Most of these big motor companies don't list the real spec's and don't let users change them, bafang the manufacture of the motor I compared it too does though so that's how I know for sure.
I had a bike with a 44/44 headset and I fitted a tapered fork with no problem. Admittedly it’s not really in keeping with the KC budget ethos, but check out a Hope H-EC44/40 lower cup. 👍
That’s an external cup to accommodate the taper, but thanks for sharing. I’ve never understood why the external adapter cups are double the price 🤷🏻
I assume that fork is mislabeled as it's definitely non-boost with the 15x100 axle. That's actually a good thing because you'd have trouble finding a non-taper boost fork. There are a few more straight steerer non-boost forks out there if you are planning to swap.
It is slightly strange to see a non-boost fork combined with a boost rear end (even if we are talking about QR Boost141). Polygon does that on some of their bikes, like the Xtrada 7 I had a while back.
My opinion is they should have built a slightly up spec'd hardtail with this mid-drive setup. I can't fathom spending that much money on a bike with plastic bushing pivots. For the same $1500, I'd rather see a hardtail with the same Microshift 1x9 as the Kent Truvaille. Kent would have a real winner if they built that.
Note: the bushings are metal. Only at the rear are there nylon washers surrounding a metal bushing.
@@KevCentral I'd still rather see bearings on any suspension framr, particularly one with the extra weight and power being sent through that rear end (I suspect they "uprated the bishings to metal for this reason, but still not good enough imo). I'd think a $1500 hardtail emtb with Advent 1x9 would make a pretty decent ride.
Awesome to hear Kev and thanks for answering! Also yes do more live shows 👍
Put a tapered 160 fork (risk adapter) now hta 63 degrees...
Another great vid!
I think you're right about the torque spec being for a lock ring. My Bafang motors have a lock ring there, also labeled for the torque of the lock ring.
If the battery is 36 volts you can figure out the amps used by the controller using the peak motor output. Amps X Volts = Watts. Assuming that the motor is actually 250 Watts (probably peaks higher) and the battery has 36 Volts (it's actually around 39 fully charged) it's using around 7 Amps. I'd bet that it's got a 10 amp controller and on a fully charged battery the power will peak (momentarilay) to around 390 Watts.
141mm qr rear hubs usually means it’s a “boost quick release” size. 141qr is to 148ta as 135qr is to 142ta
Thanks for sharing
Have you decided what wheel set your going to use..."bucklos"?? I'm thinking about buying a set for my bike. What do you think about them. Anyway look forward to seeing the upgrades you have in mind.
142 rear and 100mm front is not boost spacing. 148x12 and 15 or 20 x 110 is boost spacing. You can add a tapered fork to that frame with a EC 44/40 lower headset.
I wanted to do a quick comparison versus Giant's cheapest E-bike. The hyper comes in at $1500, and the Giant Stance E+ 2 comes in at $4,400 (on sale for $3800).
motor torque:
giant - 70Nm
hyper - 110Nm
Battery:
giant - 500Wh
hyper - 380Wh
Frame:
giant - aluminum
hyper - aluminum
Suspension:
giant - 130mm front suntour, & suntour rear
hyper - 100mm front suntour, & exa form rear
Gears:
giant - shimano 10 speed
hyper - shimano 7 speed
brakes:
giant - 203mm hydraulic disc
hyper - 160mm mechanical disk
tires:
giant - maxxis
hyper - no name
If you did the same upgrade package as the aluminum comp and swapped out the tires its looking like:
tires - $120 - 2x maxxis rekons $120
shifter - $95 - 1x10 advent X shifter & derailleur
rear cassette - $63 - microshift 11-48T
Chain - $25 - shimano tiagra
Brakes - $70 - Shimano MT200
Rear wheel w/ cassette - $100
total parts = $473
total bike that is just about on par = $1973
If you want a basic suspension package you really only need to swap out the front
Front forks - $300 - rockshox recon
Total bike with better front suspension = $2273
Then if you want to really go performance:
Front Forks - $520 - Marzocchi bomber z2
rear shock - $309 - Bomber CR
Total bike with insanely better suspension - $2802
+ or - a hundred bucks based on other accessories, but for the price, this bike with upgrades blows the next best thing out of the water
Probably everyone has on this. Is Most would go Giant because of 1 reason. It's not a Walmart bike. Everyone is scared to high beans that a walmart bike will never perform as good as a branded bike. They take a single look at this compared to others and barf because the size of the bike itself make it seem weak.
The thinner frame style and smaller size bike compared to other brands that make them look SUPER buffed and strong. Is what turns people away. Though a funny fact that those people don't understand.........Is This bike is STRONGER in terms of durability and strength then those branded bikes are. Even though it's smaller and looks thin. The tube gauge inside the frame IS THICKER. That heaviness to the bike makes it much more durability due to the thicker frame gauge. Compared to the branded bikes. The only reason they LOOK buff is because they widen the frame to make the frame metal THINNER gauged. To give it stiffness and lightness. But in terms of overall durability and strength. A good whack to the frame will destroy those bikes in a instant. But a good smack on these frames. (For instance a bat.) This will only suffer a bend. Compared to a brand bike that'll likely bend MUCH easier and likely show a crack or so.
I mean both have their pros and cons. But that's the biggest factor people stay clear that they don't understand. Both bikes are MADE exactly the same metal alloy's now. Compared to the Steel version bikes that made with high carbon steel vs Omi Steel, That made a light and day difference between both them. Now adays Both bikes are made the exact same alloy's and strengths. Thicker gauge metal alum makes a HUGE difference then thinning out alum metal to make lightness. A thick alum will withstand much more abuse then a thinner version will. And this IE the Hyper will perform way better. Even if it's Heavier. That heaviness is the whole factor that makes the bike really strong.
I'm sure the pauses in your speech have already been addressed as a love it or hate it kind of deal, but I am definitely in. The hate it camp.
Has anyone here seen a emtb called Hurley Riptide ? $2000 mid drive. Looks sort of promising for taller riders.
15mph in the woods is going pretty at a pretty good pace with good tires. Anything faster than that and you're in catastrophic injury territory.
Kev is always the 🐐
35mm air fork upgrade with taper headtube bearing cup kit STAT !!!
I’m not to keen on external taper headsets, but a good air fork would definitely be a good addition
@@KevCentral I use one on my Hyper Carbon X. Nothing wrong with it other than adding 10mm to your axle-to-crown + slackening head angle by 0.5 degrees.
@@KevCentral I don’t understand the worry about them, a lot of higher end steel hardtails use EC44 headset cups from the OEM
@@Max-ek6nn Additionally I have a Santa Cruz Bronson that uses an EC56/40. Plenty of bikes use external headset cups.
When I saw your original video, I thought to myself, what a huge misstep it was to not spec a tapered headtube. What were they thinking?!
Not a deal killer, but a curious choice to not taper the headtube since some other hyper bikes have them
There’s an adapter you can use to have a tapered fork
@@guambra2001 Yes absolutely! Wolf tooth makes a pretty decent 44 to 56 cup 👍
Yeah, a tapered head tube and thru axle rear dropouts and you've checked every box. So close!
@@nommchompsky yup, qr dropouts are a deal killer
boost spacing in the front is 110 that has to be a mistake on the fork sticker.
What is the minimum seat height? What is the standover height? Thanks!
Wish someone would answer this. I'm 5'7".
Yeah boost refers to 110 but maybe SR Suntour made it “boost” by not having the forks be QR and instead through axle.
Really looking at getting this bike but trying to consider what will stop this from being totally useless bike in 5 years of normal use?
No guarantees a replacement motor and batteries will be around in that time.
For instance the budget XR Pro has been around for 10 years and is still a good entry level mtb. Hoping to generate conversation and at the same time get opinions of the actual owners of the mid drive E-Ride.
Is this the cheapest or most economical mid drive on the market?
Yes, by a long shot.
40nm is definitely the torque rating required to tighten the lock ring.
You should try out a btwin bike I never heard of the company before but it seems like that have some pretty good bikes for about 300 dollars. And for that you get a one by drive train a fork with lockout and disk brakes. And the bike looks pretty nice.
They have been around for a while. I’ve had my eye on them
Nice work Kev.
Did you replace the rear hub with freehub, wondering if you think 141 QR or 135?
Seems like frame is 141 with wheel off but the existing wheel is 135 freewheel and bolt on squeezes the dropouts together to 135
first, and i love the videos 🤘
You may have mentioned this already, and I might have missed. Is the front chainring replaceable? Also, it seems like you have connections with Hyper. Any word on their upcoming bikes? Especially the carbon x replacement?
Chainring is replaceable. As far as new bikes, don’t expect much from any mfg for 2023. Bike industry is in a tight spot right now, and most new bikes have been pushed to 2024. That said, a few bikes will trickle out. Hyper will, I’m sure, keep that (if they have any) close to the vest until they release anything. Carbon X replacement? Carbon X 29er is still available. Do you know something I don’t? 😎
@@KevCentral thanks for the inside track!!
am I crazy or does this bike NOT have a narrow wide chainring? Maybe a future upgrade, since I know you dropped the chain once. You'd think they would include a narrow wide chainring to go along with the chain guide.
Chain guide somewhat negates the need since it’s only a 7-speed
@@KevCentral narrow wide is better than chain guide. it keeps the chain naturally secure over bumps, removes more mud from the chain if you ride in mud. even if you have a chain guide the narrow wide chainring will prevent almost all of the rubbing of the chain against the guide
@@geemy9675 I was getting some chain drops with this bike, switched to a narrow wide chain ring and it absolutely cured the issue. The chain guide position can be improved with some bench grinder machining also.
I wonder if a bafang mid drive would fit that bottom bracket
For the mid-drive version? No. But the 29/26er likely. I been focus on trying to go that route with my 26inch version. It's already turned into the best monster. I'm the only one that upgraded this hyper bike to a insane amount.
Is there an aftermarket battery out to get further miles out of the bike. I'm 36 miles from work but have a compact bike trail that goes from my house in Kenosha Wisconsin to the Navy base in Great Lakes Illinois.
Seat tube angle?
What kind of wattage does that motor put out? I think most of these 250w mid drives usually max a little over 550w. Curious if it has enough power to get the job done.
10/14/2023 - This is now priced at $1,098.00.
It's now $699
Yup 699 just ordered one @@goheels4life635
What is the stand-over height from the top of the junction of the seat and horizontal tubes to the ground?
Is there proper clearance to run an 8 speed 11-34 freewheel without changing side spacers?
Has anyone had success with going tubeless with these wheels and tires?
Is the chainring a narrow wide?
How low can you set the air pressure on the rear shock to be soft for a light rider? Since the travel ratio is minimal, it would seem the rear would always be stiff, even at the lowest air pressure setting.
Does the Vinka Life app work with the Hyper bike?
BTW, Oil impregnated bushings can take more load than a roller or needle bearing when rotational needs are minimal, so going with this for the rear pivot points is not necessarily a disadvantage.
I can vouch that the Vinka on this bike does not support the Vinka Life app.
If you still have the bike, can you please answer the prior questions@@pixelatedmushroom
If the bike runs at 20 mph and the furthest distance you can get is 10 miles then the battery only lasts a half an hour
He was doing 10 miles of trail riding. So he is saying it took him long then an hour to do 10 miles. If you can do 20 miles an hour in the woods consistently then you have bigger balls then me.
Is there any motor latency? (Delay starting to pedal or after pedaling stops)
Any mods planned for it,Kev?
Yep
@@KevCentrallooking forward to that video and 3 month review video
Can I install a tapered front fork like RockShox Recon Silver RL Suspension Fork - 29", 130 mm, 15 x 100 mm, 51 mm Offset?
An external headset makes it tapered , that’s what I used.
40Nm is the torque to bolt the crank arm
just wondering what's the largest tire size that'll fit?
The Mid-drive and 29er are spec'd at 29inch wheels. This is the largest normal Bicycles go for now. So you likely won't be able to go larger. Unless you mean in Width size like say a 2.5. That i don't know for the mid/29er. But the 26version i have only can accept 2.2 maybe at most. The rear frame size is very narrow.
@@KillerRaptorr yes hoping to fit wider thanks for the info
Nice! I made it into a KevCentral video. I feel like I'm famous.
😂
They must have sent you the original "rough draft" design file, but I'm guessing they had to make wheel upgrades for strength down the line and never updated the drawing, hence the boost spacing
That's weird that that's 15×100. If it's real boost it should be 15×110mm so idk if that's just a sticker because it's a thru axle?? It's not a real boost in my opinion idk why they would put that on there.
40 N/m is for tightening the crankset, nothing to do with the motor.
I believe it’s actually the chainring mount retainer
That little tiny 32mm stanchion fork on that thing.
EC44 can run tapered. EC42 cannot
Did Hyper provide you with this bike to review? If so, you should disclose the paid product placement.
Mid motor drive is just a barbecue rotisserie motor.... It's not rocket science
How does it ride without power?
It rides very nice with no motor assist, no drag, do not even notice the extra e-bike weight
I really hope these motors can last… I have been seeing some discouraging videos from other user reviews …
O do you have a link to the discouraging videos?
You know that fork is
Not boost. Stop being nice to Walmart about it. Just call it out.
That wouldn’t be on Walmart; that would be on Hyper. I’ve seen bike standards be somewhat pliable in the past, so I took a cautious approach since I didn’t know if there was some use of 15x100 noted as Boost somewhere I wasn’t aware.
@@KevCentral Sorry, I meant Hyper