Fair play to you for smelling that petrol Peter and detecting the problem.Saved the owner a lot of money down the road.I see Marvel there happy out.Great content,thanks a mill for sharing.
Great to see another video with the detail you put into all you work on. Plus fair play to the owner for being upfront about the software. Was good to get some advice off you on Monday thanks and keep up the good work 👍🏼
As you know Chris not much point in doing 1 injector. The owner is thinking about changing the car. But she is up and running for another while, thanks dude 🙏🙏
Interesting as always Peter. In the 80`s my uncle would put a bit of petrol in with the diesel to stop the diesel from waxing up in the cold; I'm guessing modern diesel fuel is formulated better now.
I don’t know about the make up of modern diesel, but it does smell quite like petrol nowadays so I thought I could have been wrong. But unfortunately I wasn’t , luckily it didn’t cause any damage. Did he put a blanket over the engine too ?? Ah the good olde days 🙂 Cheers Dave 😉👍
It really could have become a problem if the customer wasn’t honest. I could have been pulling my hair out as to how the dash was lit up after an injector 😤 Cheers Wackey 😉
Hi mate again great video ..so I assume that you were doing towards the end was an injector coding ? Is this straight forward? I'm gutted I didn't see you torque up I know theure just 2nm but be jive to see someone do it rather than a manual I have about torquing up one releasing one then you have to use the markers etc .I'm not sure how fiddly it is with this as I know the injector has to sit right . Thanks
The injector coding is quite simple once the scantool has the ability to do it. I have some Vw videos showing it in more detail & it’s the same process. As for the torquing just spin down both nuts on the bracket fairly level & then just torque down both nuts to 2Nm (simples) I always give them a little more than specified 😬
@@kennedysgarage3281 thanks for replying mate ..often you hear garages try svarimg you into thinking noone can do it but the garages . I had injector 1 done under a year ago . I've put new sensor on BUT aa time wasn't on my side I could only clean thar pipe in your other video just past half way blowing g out the shit every now n then . I do aim to get pipe out fully and I do have a new one at hand but if I end up getting g it off I'll first use the new hole cleaning tools I've just bought they're flexible yet rigid enough on a drill to tackle carbon . I'm not sure if you feel this could be done in situ and safe to do so carefully ? Seems a pig to get my big hands in there lol I'm assuming you took the scuttle plastics off below windscreen ? Again thank you for your replay it's much appreciated indeed . The car is almost as ot should be . After Xmas the sump removal and oil strainer to be done .
@@kevinhancock4064 I find that the carbon can be too hard to clean the pipe in situ, but that doesn’t mean it is impossible. I didn’t remove the plastic under wiper’s as I didn’t feel it helped me 😉
@@kennedysgarage3281 thank you buddy no doubt you may be right I have here 4 in a pack very long feeding tube brushes . I truly feel they'd work if they dint then of course I'll do as you did . I'd already taken and removed the bracket 3 times lol the original hose is longer so realised I couldn't reuse old one . I could have cut it but didn't bother . Bit of silicone spray to help get hose on . Helped . Def more response so in the morning I'll get back to it get it cleared properly. Def crap in there . Not sure if u had it but I was getting odd buzz noises. They're more faint now so assume it's likeky to do with the pipe/sensor
No Richard, unplugging the injectors does affect the injector coding. That is preset into the engine ECU. The most common issue I see after lads clean the intake manifold & ports is not having compressed are to blow all the loose carbon from the ports. Then when they crank it over those carbon bits get squashed under the valve seat’s causing a loss in compression. Is your car manual or automatic?? If manual try a tow start 🤔🤔
@@richardclarke4405 tow start it 😬😬 The extra rpm should make it overcome the carbon issue. I had a Mazda 3 one day and I removed the MAP sensor to examine the intake manifold condition and a large knob of carbon got dislodged off the top of it, it then failed to start & the customer was just gone for a walk. Panic 😱 ,but it started with a tow 💪💪
I apologize for my English, I used Google translator. Hi, maybe you have encountered such a problem? When the engine warms up above 40 degrees, at idle, the pressure in the fuel ramp is 350 bar, and the rpm is 850. After working like this for 3-4 minutes, at idle, the RPM drops to 750, and the pressure in the fuel ramp becomes 400 bar. Is this normal? (Mazda 6, 2015, 2.2d 150 HP, mechanical transmission)
Do you have fuel pressure faults ?? If not I wouldn’t worry about it. The change in rpm is most likely to be caused by an egr valve operating ( opening/ closing) How is it driving otherwise??
@@kennedysgarage3281 No, I have no faults. The car works well, dynamics, acceleration are all fine. The EGR valve is programmatically disabled in my car. Thanks for the answer and your videos.
Hi Peter, i see your really expert about mazda skyactiv diesel engines Maybe you can help me , I replaced the engine in my mazda CX5 2.2 diesel skyactiv and show fault p1336 , starts first time and drives lovely ,engine sound nice, i clear that code fault but every time after starting show on dash again What you think ? Maybe chain bit stretched ? Or need some reset to ECU after engine replaced? I changed both sensor cam and crank but problem still there .Thanks
P1336 is a camshaft/ crankshaft correlation code & you would have to, 1. make sure that both the sensors are producing a signal. 2. Then make sure that those signals are getting to the ECU. 3. Us an oscilloscope to get a waveform capture & cross reference to a known good one. And move forward from there, let me know how you get on 🤞🤞
I appreciate the work done, without the help of multi-brand diagnosis, but in the end it would have been good to correct by the diagnosis tools the injectors, it is a necessary step, much success in the future.
Just wanted to ask Audi A6 2016 egr cooler did u remove the subframe half way with the bolts or remove fully and when lowering the frame did it give u enough room to take the engine mounts off
Fair play to you for smelling that petrol Peter and detecting the problem.Saved the owner a lot of money down the road.I see Marvel there happy out.Great content,thanks a mill for sharing.
Thanks Rob, sorry I had to cut our call short 🙏🙏👍
Great to see another video with the detail you put into all you work on. Plus fair play to the owner for being upfront about the software. Was good to get some advice off you on Monday thanks and keep up the good work 👍🏼
Yes John fair play to him , I’m glad you enjoy the videos & anytime I can help I will just ask. Thank you John 🙏🙏👍
Thanks for sharing this. What should be the acceptable range of injector correction value?
The Mazda 6 King strikes again...no messing and straight for the jugular 👍
As you know Chris not much point in doing 1 injector. The owner is thinking about changing the car. But she is up and running for another while, thanks dude 🙏🙏
Interesting as always Peter. In the 80`s my uncle would put a bit of petrol in with the diesel to stop the diesel from waxing up in the cold; I'm guessing modern diesel fuel is formulated better now.
I don’t know about the make up of modern diesel, but it does smell quite like petrol nowadays so I thought I could have been wrong. But unfortunately I wasn’t , luckily it didn’t cause any damage.
Did he put a blanket over the engine too ??
Ah the good olde days 🙂
Cheers Dave 😉👍
good job peter your where on the ball finding out there was petrol put in the car you could have been chasing your tail with that job 👍
It really could have become a problem if the customer wasn’t honest. I could have been pulling my hair out as to how the dash was lit up after an injector 😤
Cheers Wackey 😉
Not seen that test before on injectors ,,good test
An insulation test. I bought the insulation tester around 1 year ago & I must say one of my better investments. They are around €400. Cheers Simon 👍👍
Great video a lesson for us all 👍 cheers sandy
It’s great to have you watching Sandy, hopefully you liked it 🙏 I’m a big fan of your videos. Thanks Sandy 😉👍
Hi mate again great video ..so I assume that you were doing towards the end was an injector coding ? Is this straight forward? I'm gutted I didn't see you torque up I know theure just 2nm but be jive to see someone do it rather than a manual I have about torquing up one releasing one then you have to use the markers etc .I'm not sure how fiddly it is with this as I know the injector has to sit right . Thanks
The injector coding is quite simple once the scantool has the ability to do it. I have some Vw videos showing it in more detail & it’s the same process.
As for the torquing just spin down both nuts on the bracket fairly level & then just torque down both nuts to 2Nm (simples) I always give them a little more than specified 😬
@@kennedysgarage3281 thanks for replying mate ..often you hear garages try svarimg you into thinking noone can do it but the garages . I had injector 1 done under a year ago . I've put new sensor on BUT aa time wasn't on my side I could only clean thar pipe in your other video just past half way blowing g out the shit every now n then . I do aim to get pipe out fully and I do have a new one at hand but if I end up getting g it off I'll first use the new hole cleaning tools I've just bought they're flexible yet rigid enough on a drill to tackle carbon . I'm not sure if you feel this could be done in situ and safe to do so carefully ? Seems a pig to get my big hands in there lol I'm assuming you took the scuttle plastics off below windscreen ?
Again thank you for your replay it's much appreciated indeed . The car is almost as ot should be . After Xmas the sump removal and oil strainer to be done .
@@kevinhancock4064 I find that the carbon can be too hard to clean the pipe in situ, but that doesn’t mean it is impossible. I didn’t remove the plastic under wiper’s as I didn’t feel it helped me 😉
@@kennedysgarage3281 thank you buddy no doubt you may be right I have here 4 in a pack very long feeding tube brushes . I truly feel they'd work if they dint then of course I'll do as you did . I'd already taken and removed the bracket 3 times lol the original hose is longer so realised I couldn't reuse old one . I could have cut it but didn't bother . Bit of silicone spray to help get hose on . Helped . Def more response so in the morning I'll get back to it get it cleared properly. Def crap in there . Not sure if u had it but I was getting odd buzz noises. They're more faint now so assume it's likeky to do with the pipe/sensor
If you unplug the injector harness multi plug do the have to re program the injectors ? Done a de coke now wont start
No Richard, unplugging the injectors does affect the injector coding. That is preset into the engine ECU. The most common issue I see after lads clean the intake manifold & ports is not having compressed are to blow all the loose carbon from the ports. Then when they crank it over those carbon bits get squashed under the valve seat’s causing a loss in compression.
Is your car manual or automatic??
If manual try a tow start 🤔🤔
@@kennedysgarage3281 thanks for the reply its a manual
@@richardclarke4405 tow start it 😬😬
The extra rpm should make it overcome the carbon issue.
I had a Mazda 3 one day and I removed the MAP sensor to examine the intake manifold condition and a large knob of carbon got dislodged off the top of it, it then failed to start & the customer was just gone for a walk.
Panic 😱 ,but it started with a tow 💪💪
Another good job and find 👍 what model is that meter?
It’s only a Laser insulation tester but I have to say it’s a good piece of kit & good value @ around £300. Euro parts sell them 👍
Another great informative cartoon👍
Just like years ago , watch as many cartoons as possible 😂😂
I hope you enjoyed it John 😉
I apologize for my English, I used Google translator.
Hi, maybe you have encountered such a problem? When the engine warms up above 40 degrees, at idle, the pressure in the fuel ramp is 350 bar, and the rpm is 850. After working like this for 3-4 minutes, at idle, the RPM drops to 750, and the pressure in the fuel ramp becomes 400 bar. Is this normal? (Mazda 6, 2015, 2.2d 150 HP, mechanical transmission)
Do you have fuel pressure faults ??
If not I wouldn’t worry about it. The change in rpm is most likely to be caused by an egr valve operating ( opening/ closing)
How is it driving otherwise??
@@kennedysgarage3281 No, I have no faults.
The car works well, dynamics, acceleration are all fine.
The EGR valve is programmatically disabled in my car.
Thanks for the answer and your videos.
Hi Peter, i see your really expert about mazda skyactiv diesel engines
Maybe you can help me , I replaced the engine in my mazda CX5 2.2 diesel skyactiv and show fault p1336 , starts first time and drives lovely ,engine sound nice, i clear that code fault but every time after starting show on dash again
What you think ? Maybe chain bit stretched ? Or need some reset to ECU after engine replaced? I changed both sensor cam and crank but problem still there .Thanks
P1336 is a camshaft/ crankshaft correlation code & you would have to,
1. make sure that both the sensors are producing a signal.
2. Then make sure that those signals are getting to the ECU.
3. Us an oscilloscope to get a waveform capture & cross reference to a known good one.
And move forward from there, let me know how you get on 🤞🤞
I appreciate the work done, without the help of multi-brand diagnosis, but in the end it would have been good to correct by the diagnosis tools the injectors, it is a necessary step, much success in the future.
Unfortunately I can only do what the owner chooses to do 😞
He said that he might get it sorted in the future if he keeps the car 🚗 👍
Badgers aren’t as rough that running SkyA-D
Hi Peter, where are you based?
Hi Hue, we are in Waterford, Ireland 🇮🇪
Good job 👍
Thank you Michael 👍
Just wanted to ask Audi A6 2016 egr cooler did u remove the subframe half way with the bolts or remove fully and when lowering the frame did it give u enough room to take the engine mounts off
I only lowered the subframe down & didn’t remove it. Sorry for the delayed response 😞👍
@@kennedysgarage3281 no worries I got it done in 8 hours ✅ was a pain tho
@@zukhrufhussain2271 well done 👍
Sounds like a vuaxhall antara
😂😂👍
There's a few things going on here. Too much to type
It’s Sunday start typing 💬
Am I missing something?? You have me curious now Dave 🤔
@@kennedysgarage3281 Sunday?
@@davesterl 😂😂😂
Saturday, will I blame predictive text or just own it 😂😂
I wasn’t working today & I feels like a Sunday 🤦♂️
In 6 minutes into your latest, plugs on wrong way 🤔🤔
@@kennedysgarage3281 took you 6 minutes??? You're loosing it man!! Hehe lol
WORST ENGINE OF ALL TIME, TRUST ME
I love them . A chap once said I’m either stupid or brilliant 😂😂😂😂