Convert from 700c Wheels To 26" Wheels?
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- Опубликовано: 17 сен 2024
- I get asked Can I convert a road bike with 700c wheels to 26" wheels? I walk through the conversion process and give my answer. This would apply to a bikes with 27" wheels also.
Oh, and even if there were bosses from for cantilever or v-brakes like on a hybrid, the brakes would still likely not reach the rims.
* And any kind of hub type brakes (drum, disc, roller) would like damage the fork (and maybe frame) if they were not made to handle to torque of these particular brakes. Road bike frames are built for rim brakes, so expect the torque to be located at those locations.
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RJ The Bike Guy can you install 26 inch wheels instead of 28 inch wheels that have disc brakes?
@@senhalp5724 Lowers the bikes, and in general it's pointless. If you want a bike with 26" wheels, buy a mountain bike with 26" wheels.
Could you change the front fork to take disc brAKES?
Will 700 x 35c tires fit on a vintage 1970’s Peugeot UO8 road bike? Or even 32c?
I think of what's best to do is find something called long reach calipers if it worked for u on a frame like that you'll be better of using 27.5 and then try the V brakes
A few months ago I met a young man on the train with a Trek road bike with 26" wheels. The bike needed new wheels, an he only had a 26" set. He used street slicks on the wheels, so clearance was not a problem. He used those big caliper brakes like Schwinn and others used on their 26" street bikes in the 70s and 80s. He was quite happy with his bike.
he hard-pedaled around every corner, guaranteed. Totally shit set-up
Doing this currently and running only into one issue, I can't get enough of how fun it is.
2006 Surly Cross-Check frame
Old mavic 26" wheels and some regular slicks.
32x22 fixed
I'm on a surly steamroller, want to get it able to barspin
You can often convert 700c to 650b with the right brake combo. Old Mafac Raid or Tektro center pulls work well. I fit 38mm on my old Trek 614 which originally spec'd 27's.
I did this for my 8 year old son to have a gravel (cx) bike. I started with a small 700c aluminum frame with a carbon fork. I used the same cx pro tires he showed in the video. I used side pull brakes off of a kids mtb from the 80's with cantilever brake levers using a mtb handlebar. Also used the crank from the same kids bike with 152mm? crank arms. He loves the bike. Great for riding on rail trail. Basically made a big wheel hybrid bike for him.
Are you secretly Scotty Kilmer???
No, but I have been told I sound like him among other people.
LOL that's what I was thinking
I've read some accounts of folks converting old Schwinn Varsitys to 26" wheels. 26x1.75 tires appear to have enough clearance. A 27" to a 700C or 650B, or 700C to 650B, seems a much doable conversion because of the issues you've cited. Advantage is bigger air chamber, lower tire pressures, softer ride. I suppose that is the argument for a 26" on a 700C or 27".
All valid issues :)
I just recently did this conversion with my Kent road bike, mostly as an experiment but also for other reasons. I have more than one road bike, but could use one with heavier tires for the tack weeds and periodic jaunts across dirt and gravel. I also wanted to put fenders on it for bad weather, so I could ride longer into the fall and sooner in the spring. The biggest 700c tires I could put on the bike were 32s, and they had less than 3/8ths of an inch clearance from the bridges. Another reason was to soften the ride. I already had put mtn bike bars on it with a 5" lift as my shoulders just weren't taking riding on the drops and the bike still rode stiff so I wanted a touch more comfort.
I measured the frame carefully before going forward and found that my chain stays and forks were pretty wide. I put 2.1 inch tires on it, using Tektro BMX/Beach cruiser calipers with an 80mm drop and they fit perfectly and have more than enough clearance; I could probably go to 2.3s with no problem. Braking isn't great with that much drop, but the original brakes were horrid anyways and the new setup is actually stronger. Being able to run 2.1 inch tires I only lost about 1/2 inch on the pedal clearance, still allowing a decent lean, much more than your example bike (but I had already measured that...).
I'm happy with the results. The bike is smoother to ride, more stable and gives me more options. If I feel froggy I may well put a suspension fork on it; measuring tells me that an 80mm fork will put the bottom bracket at the same height it was before, and the rake would make the bike steer a touch slower so it "feels" more stable. I that happens then front discs will follow
We'll see :)
I did it on an old Schwinn Varsity. I used a front side pull brake of a bmx bike. I had 26x195 tires on it, next build I will use 26x175.
Coaster brake, use the wider tyre for BIG SKIDS.
you could do a follow up to that. 27.5/650b wheels work GREAT in road frames/forks to get extra tyre clearance(35 should be no probablem, 40 most likely too) and turn it into a gravel bike.
All you need is either long reach caliper brakes(cheap on ebay, mine have 90mm max range) or disc brakes.
so 27.5 works well opposed to 26inch
crank length isn't really an issue. I have 145mm cranks on my bike (they are really just cut down and machined cranks, which I am fairly sure started life as 175mm cranks. Mine are even branded Stronglight (I run square taper). I used to run 175mm cranks, as I am about 6 foot 3 tall, but age and wear on my knees encouraged me to look at other. So I am a tall guy running very short cranks. Lot less severe knee angle! Power? You'd be surprised. Short cranks cause a natural rise in cadence (more rotations for the same overall amount of foot movement). The lower leg rise also allows a flatter torso for a more aero riding position. Quite a few TT and Olympic riders are getting into much shorter cranks that the usual 165-175 range! I believe the scientific literature shows that there isn't much real power difference between the entire range of crank lengths between a VERY SHORT length of 120mm and a longish length of 175mm. After all, power is a product of torque and cadence, and, like I said, my personal experience is that cadence rises automatically when switching to much shorter cranks!
the issue about brake mounting is more real. Sheldon Brown suggests a drop plate for the brake mounts. The rear would be able to handle it better than the front, methinks.
Of course, there is always a point where it would be better to just buy a frame that took a smaller wheel size, but Sheldon Brown suggests that a reason for trying to fit smaller wheels is that BB height has increased over time, leaving a rather long reach to the ground, and folks are just trying to go back to how things were. I believe "product liability" lawsuits have been mentioned as a root cause - manufacturers playing "safe", rather than building the most suitable bicycles.
Fashions also change - when I was young, it was considered normal to stop pedalling on tight corners, and have the "low" pedal in the "up" position. These days pedalling through a tight corner seems to be more normal. So that is also a reason for moving BB height up.
Good video, though. Interesting discussion starter.
but you have to upper your seat post to compensate for shorter crank arms . I like to go the other way : 200mm crank arm and lowering my s.-post on my already large 65cm road frame . I was used to 180mm arms before and it's take time to get used to longer arms ... even with my arthrosis .
One can convert to 650B quite easily. Long reach brakes from Tektro, Paul Components or Compass Bicycles would work. You now have fender clearance. Crank clearance is still pretty good.
For those of u trying to pause the living shit outta the phone at the 3:34 - 3:35 mark... it says "The other day,I bought a thesaurus, but when I got home and opened it, all the pages were blank... I have no words to describe how angry I am"
aj_the _austin I got it third try c:
oh god! Thank you!
click the timebar and drag your mouse up
Or Pause and use the < and > buttons to go frame by frame.
(Yes I know you posted 2 months ago. 😁)
Byron Paterson lol
26 inch wheels with a wider rim and a quality level above department store bikes, are 2 to 5 times stronger than a 700c. I have converted my adventure bike from 29er (700c) to 26. 175mm crank, and disc brakes. The wheels no last 4x longer than 700c before beginning to break spokes. Ground clearance was about the same converting a 700c x 38mm tire to 26x2 tire - the profile of the 26 tire almost matches the diameter of the 700c x 38.
Should only drop bike by 1/2”.
Probably not enough to worry about.
DIY brake drop bolt brackets ! my favorite city ride
nice video like always. If someone want 26" wheels the best is mountain bike with urban tires. If is wanted for road use.
Some really small road bikes 50cm or less, come with 26 inch wheels. Makes it easier for riders 5 feet and under to have proper stand over clearance. You would also go with shorter cranks. Short riders, short legs... Mountain bike also go with smaller wheels for smaller frames. Like 27.5 instead of 29ner. wheels.
More like 650c wheels. and they are MADE for those size wheels!!!
What about:
- New long fork with disc brake mount. E.g. a rigid fork for a 29" MTB. Front brake solved. (Only possible on newer bikes)
- The long fork lifts up the bottom bracket, increasing clearance. Pedal strike somewhat solved.
- Rear wheel with coaster brake. Rear wheel solved.
- What remains unsolved is why you'd want to do it, other than for the hell of it? The change in geometry would affect the handling and it'd be a pretty nonsensical bike all round.
There are some v-brake adapters that can be clamped to the fork/frame and optionally welded in place
I did this once with a Schwinn Varsity. You just need really skinny 26" tires and really long brake calibers. I got my brake calipers from an old Walmart BMX.
Thinking about doing with with a 650 rim brake wheel. The point would be to get more clearance to be able to accept wider tires! Thanks for all the videos, they are a great resource.
That frame.. Oh man B-)
130mm dropouts / Cantilever Brakes / 26", 27.5" (650b) or 29" (29er) Wheel-set / Job done ✅
You would be better off building a set of wheels using a pair of 6 or 7 speed hubs.
I have a vintage Reynolds 531 frame (Nervex Lugs) with 130mm chain-stay spacing with cantilever bosses.
It’s perfect for what you’re attempting to build. However (unfortunately) it’s not for sale.
Ohhh c'mon! I really thought you were about to solve the caliper brakes issue! :( :D
How?
@@exequieldoria1048 Disc brakes :D
It is possible! Sheldon Brown (or John Allen?) would mount brakes on a short flat length of metal, the other end of which was mounted to the hole in the crown of the fork.
I think they like the gravelcross look or are trying to give an old frame some life
I was completely sold on the concept at 0:30.
Looks cool, but not really practical.
I've seen it done they changed the front froks to a mt.bike fork and for rear breaks they used the bigger ones on a BMX. I asked why he did it he says he liked it that way
I saw some adapters on eBay to extend brake reach. I have also seen foldable/ mini bikes use them. Seems like Taiwan and China have adapters for everything. Good vid as usual from RJ the Legend.
These would need RIDICULOUSLY long reach brakes. I don't think they make them this long. And even with an adapter, they would stick down so far, there would be a lot of leverage pulling on the brake with it sticking down that far.
RJ The Bike Guy your definitely right. Who could argue bike hacks with the guy who can fix anything? I wouldn't.
First you have to start with finding a cyclo-cross frame with a higher BB or very little BB drop ( around minus 60 ) . Now with the disc trend , they are easier to find at low cost . Second , go on aliexpress and buy 2 cheap very long reach side pull caliper brake for cruiser bike or a pair of Tektro 900A or 810C with 79-99 mm reach . It doesn't give exceptional braking power but it does the job and give plenty of lateral room for big tire . For the tire clearance chain stay issue , just crimp the inside of the stay ... a little . I've got 180mm cranks arms and there no problem with pedal touching the ground . If you still don't have enough brake pads reach , DIY an aluminium bridge to lower the center fixing bolt of the caliper brake .
My crosss country mtb has 700c wheels and it came with them from the factory
i think the point of converting is if you have two bikes and don't want to spend money buying new wheels and tires for the road bike, so you just swap the wheels from the MTB to the road bike. but yeah not worth the hassle.
I suppose if you made it single speed, and put 165 cranks on it would be workable... Not particularly well, or with any utility, but it would move.
most places here in the USA, and i believe the UK as well, require at least one "real" brake on a bike even if it's a fixie. So you'd still have the brake issue.
and if it's fixed the crank length problem getting more serious
Rollerbrake front hub.
Put 150 mm cranks on it and drop bolts on the brakes just for the sake of it.
The main reason for 26" is that when touring in remote locations, other countries, 3rd world locations (is that p.c.?) It can be a challenge to find spare tubes and tires for road bikes. 26" are much more common.
Beautiful frame !!
such a good explanation! If this presenter had chosen academic teaching as a profession, surely would be a very popular professor at a very good university!
I did this last summer on a '74 Schwinn Suburban. I used cruiser 26's and they fit (barely). I tried it again on a '79 Suburban and they didn't fit with the balloon tires. Gonna try a narrower tire before I reinstall the 27's. Yes I switch all my bikes to single speed.
you can if you lace the front wheel to a drum brake and the rear to a coaster brake shimano nexus, or Sram Imotion, or a Sturmey archer. I've done it
So then you end up with a heavy bike with limited gearing and still too low to the ground... Sounds awesome!
RJ The Bike Guy I said it is possible and 'usable', not that it was a light weight solution.
I personally ride an alfine 8 and a Sram I9 and both are smoth as 2 lesbians doing scissors, oiled, on a pool float in a jelly pool.... you don't really care about wight when the ride is so nice
Drum brakes; except the Sturmey archer 70mm one, are all underpowered. You need to be a trully animal to bend a fork with a regular drum. Well tuned rim brakes can be as agressive as any disc or drum, the difference comes in the fatige or abuse that different brakes can take.
Personally I will leave a bike tune like that for a city/bike lane ride...
The braking forces with rim brakes and brakes closer to the hub (drum, disc, etc), torque the frame in different locations. Road bike frames are not designed to handle torque in the fork like that.
slap a coaster brake on their and one of those cowhorn handlebars and i think itd be a weirdly cool cruiser
Séamuis There is a couple of other brands that make drum brakes.
It ok to install it, not recomendable, but if you don't have another option, could do the job. Better have a 'soft' (detune it to have less end torque) front brake than none. Braking like a pro in a fixie or like a fixie is way more dangerous on a bike like that than having a 'fork bender front drum'
I did this and i added discbrakes on my classic roadbike frame with a 26er wheels.
You could change the front forks to MTB forks. That gives you any number of brake options. I agree it's a bit of a pointless exercise when cyclocross gravel tyres will fit a 700C or 27incher.
Um, you can get dual pivot calliper brakes with enough reach for up to a 3.5" tire, and there are lots of reach lengths available from 39mm to at least 120mm.
I built my cargo e-bike with the rear triangle from a 27" road bike. At first, I used a 700x35 wheel and tire, but then to reduce the ground clearance I switched to 26x1.5". Now I'm using 26x1.75", which works fine. I'm also using a Shimano Roller Brake, but I could just as easily use a calliper brake sized for a cruiser bike.
By using elongated forks, I've fitted 24" rear/20" front wheels to 27 inch road bikes, too. The original kickstands even work correctly. This stuff is completely feasible; it's just not a mindless parts swap.
A way long but flexy drop bolt would fix the brakes. But those cranks would be dangerous. Great vid.
I did a 650B conversion on my road-tourer. On most bikes the Teatro R559 dual-pivot brakes should fix the brake issue. Mine was originally designed for the older 27” wheels which are 630mm instead of 622mm on 700C so I had to hunt around for an even longer rear brake calliper, but most 700C road bikes should convert easily to 650B with 37mm to 44mm wide tyres.
I kinda like your solid logic way of thinking
I don't get the point for a conversion either but man, that Raleigh frame is a knock out! What will it look like when you finish it? BTW, I have some 42mm semi knobby tires on 700c wheels, setting it up for a friend to ride a rails to trails.
My reason: When I bought my Trek FX hybrid I sized up because I was more comfortable having a little reach. But I wouldn’t mind the bike being slightly lower and at the same time being more nimble with better acceleration from a stop.
Buy the proper size and make adjustments of seat position and stem, etc.
I wanted to do this to get rid of the toe overlap.
RJ can I convert a 26 inch mountain bike to 20 inch BMX wheels ? LOL
I seen a guy riding with a 20 inch BMX tire up front. Sure looked odd.
People convert that and they are cool
the pedal/crank arm will be lower or closer to the ground tho, its quite dangerous
@@johnpossum556 I've done that before when I wrecked my bike and fucked the wheel.
70's/80's steel Sport Touring frame with wider fork/seat/chain stays, DIY brake drop bolt brackets ala Sheldon Brown, long reach brakes, 26"x1.5" -1.9" tires, 170mm or 165mm cranks, pedals with max corner clearance. DON'T ride it as a fixie. Don't pedal through corners. Rigging an old 1" RockShox fork may raise pedal clearance. Yeh I do see the appeal of an eccentric project such as this. If done right, it could work well. I'd say build one that works RJ and make a video of it, just to prove it can be done.
That’s a darn fine Raleigh frame 🇬🇧
I like 26"wheels because they feel sturdy to me. Much more so than 650 or 700. I also prefer roadbike geometry. So 26"wheels in a roadbike seems like a natural choice.
My frame only took 700x23C ... Any bigger tyres would rub.. found long cantilever brakes 95mm which should do the job as I've put 26 inch mountain bikes wheels but with slick white city tyres. I was looking into 650B but too rare and costly... Love the channel...
Is it possible to upgrade my 7speed freewheel road bike to 8speed? The frame is allux
ruclips.net/video/QwxEPRk3LFg/видео.html
Could you do a mountain bike to road bike video? I have an old norco Bigfoot I want to turn into an overbuilt cyclocross bike
Please riddle us, RJ, on how you ride a bike without a chain. Seems like pedal strike would not be an issue. And I really like your videos, you do good work with old bikes and you present techniques and discoveries well.
Why do a full build on a bike to show the wheels aren't going to work???
I see your point, RJ, now that I have thought seriously about it. And I really like the finish on that frameset, red pipes with plated forks and stays.
I originally wanted to use this frame for the gravel bike build. There are rust spots under the chrome, with chrome flaking off.
this bike does look great with those wheels on!!
Convert to 27 x1 1/4". Plenty of new tires and new/used rims in that size available on Ebay, Craig's list, at your LBS, etc.
From 700c to 27"? That's would be dumb. That is old tech. Way more tires for 700c.
@@RJTheBikeGuy Nothing wrong with old tech. All of my road bikes have 27" rims. Gitane. Bianchi. Le Tour Luxe.
Love the single frame joke :)
Very good analysis
Nice of you to provide content for the tweaker/DUI/hobo audience
I ride a 26 rigid mtb with 20 inch out back and love it (has working gears too), the 26 mtb wheels look sweet on that bike I reckon.
Minivelo?
The biggest gear on the bike is the rear wheel. If you want more low down torque then going from 28" to 26" will do it.
I think it is more applicable to CX bikes with spacing for 700x32-35c tires featuring disc brakes. Many do convert to 650x42-47b
Hey I bought a 28inch schwimm bike that is a little too tall is there a way to lower the bike cause the seat is at its lowest point and still I'm about 5'9 5'10 idk if this is the right bike for me
No. The frame is the foundation. Start with a frame that is the right size for you. If the frame is too big, it's too big. Sell it, and find one the right size for you.
My personal use case:
Bike has been fitted with arear shock that is 30mm too high. Have plenty of 26 wheels laying around, and want to try mullet biking, but 27.5 is too big.
Hey RJ, Did you ever think of putting 650b (27.5") wheels on an old 26" MTB frame to make a gravel style bike?
I did
The reason I want to move to 26" or 650b is because my rear chainstays are so close together -- you can't fit a tyre width higher than 23mm rear tyres and I want wider tyres. My days of running 700x23s are long over! My brakes have extremely long arms and fit no probs, also running 170mm crank arms and haven't hit the road with them whilst cycling... yet.
Enjoyed your content for years, but I think you're wrong on this one. There are legitimate reasons!
I have no words indeed!
My wife bought me my bike which has 28 " wheels and i prefer 26" as mounting and dismounting is easier. Thats why i wondered if you could convert down in wheel size, not putting massively outsized fat tyres on, just the regular road tyres i already have.
Beautiful frame
I wanted to do this because I have a 26" wheel with a 3-speed internal gear hub (mounted on a heavy/slow cruiser), and a single speed bike with 700c wheels that would be a perfect commuter (for me) if it had the internal 3-speed
Strange video.
But I understand it's an answer to a strange proposition, going from 700c to 26".
Never saw you do the 26"->650B, btw. I'm thinking about it for my beloved deda zero steel/MTB/commuter aka "the 20 years old rig suddenly gravel cool".
Did it with my "Steppenwolf Timber". Works great as long as the tiresize isn't wider than 2.1"...
that conversion doesnt make sense?
I was thinking about this but I realized there is a 700c fatter tires like 700c x 32, it actually works better. my question though rj the bike guy, can you put fatter tires on any clincher because i tried it and its seem to work?
Up to a certain point. There is a chart at the bottom of this page: www.sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html
The 26 wheel and sparepart are cheaper and so many of them.. i guess thats the reason, And also 26 give more stability and control over rough roads.. i use 26 my self on hybrid
That is what i needed to know thanks a lot, the thing is i don't have any money to buy new rims and tires.
I personally don't know why someone would want to do this. Looks cool? IDK. If one did want to accomplish this however, my best advice would be a three speed rear wheel with coaster brake, and a front wheel with a drum brake hub. BTW That's a fricking beautiful Raleigh!!!
Too bad there are spots of rust under the chrome on the seat stays... :(
Gravel bikes are 700c. That's what brought me here. I was seeing how much of the parts from my mtb could be moved over to a gravel bike.
I have a road bike that I'm trying to put 26" mag wheels on so that i can put a motor on it and have the wheel strength i need to support the power . It's an 80cc 2 stroke motor that is why I wanted to see if they would fit
I have a 27" wheel I'd want to do something with. On an old Peugeot carbolite 501. Not many tire options in that size.
ruclips.net/video/L5pl0zrlHbg/видео.html
Very helpful
A little disappointed with the lack of creativity and ingenuity in this video. As to why, because I can! And because the first time I did it the only extra wheels I had available were mountain bike wheels. Sheldon Brown gave me all the clues I needed (simple drop brackets made from reflector brackets for the brakes). Also, many road bikes will not accept 700 tires larger than 25 or 28 cm.
You end up with the great handling of a road bike and the durability and cush of mountain bike tires. Not all of us can afford several bikes. While the lower crank is a bit of an issue, it has never been a problem once you are aware of it.
"Rim brakes are out of the question"
20 cents worth of hardware and you can make drop brackets.
Or find an old free bike with rim brakes that will work with no modification (huffy baypoint, for example.. it's really not challenging.
Just because everything doesn't work out to absolute perfection the first time you try to throw something together doesn't mean it's not an option.
I guess if you have a bike that has toe over lap. The smaller wheel might eliminate that problem?
Shrug. And introduce new ones
What the hell is a thesaurus?
nevermind i got it hahahaha XD
I just converted my 1989 GT Avalanche from straight bar to drop 26er. Much easier to throw on a set of 7 speed brifters and drop bar than to try and concert 700c wheels to 26ers. The only problem I'm having is my rear brake bosses are U Brake only. Can't use cantis or or v brakes. I'm having trouble with a few different sets of U-Brakes that I've tried. Oh well, there is always beer...
I have an old xl cannondale m700 which I never thought I would have wanted but it’s actually makes sense for jumping around town. Only problem is it has a 1-1/4 threadless headset so I’m virtually stuck with the headset... I ended up with some VO Bordeaux bars to make it pretty comfy
Looking at it because I want to convert to E-bike. All the E-bike kits are 26" and I currently own a 700c bike.
Build the hub into a 700c rim.
I like how well the pros built it, dont want to mess with that.
After watching this video I hopped on Craigslist and bought a 26" bike. I want to feel safe cruising at 30mph
@@robertkelly7884 Probably the best choice.
@@RJTheBikeGuy How could I get an electric hub out of a 26" rim and into a 700c rim?
bmx caliper brakes would reach the rims easily. a gravel bike project.
parker fly you hit the nail on the head,I put 26" mtb wheels on my Schwinn Continental from the 1970s that originally had 27" and used a bmx caliper brake set-up and it worked fine.
Question?
This old-school Road bike is 700c @ 25mm
What if I had a current adventure bike with disc brakes that's 700c @40mm
Could I in theory fit 26" x 2.3 tires on that badboy?
You have to be crazy to make that change. jajajaja
I agree with you RJ what is the point?
In my opinion the better solution on that is when you want to put a 26 inch wheelsets . i recomend to install a 3speed coaster brake hubs on it .
Frame not built for the forces of hub braking.
You are like the magic 8 ball of bicycle repair
So the reason i came to the video was wanting to to use a 700c rim brake fork on a 90’s 26” mtb. This is because you can find a million 700c forks with 1/8” threadless steerers for cheap, whereas the same thing for 26” barely exists. Why would i want to do this? A) i prefer a rigid steel fork to a suspension fork, B) i dont like threaded fork/headset setups C) i want the tire width that comes with 26. There are some conversion kits i’ve come across, but either they look crappy or arent available anymore. I know this is an old vid, but if anyone has suggestions im open!
* 1 1/8
700c and 29er are the same rim size and will cross mount.
I just broke my 700c back wheel , all I had was 26inc wheel and a 27.5 Inc wheel i tried the 26 inch wheel first and it was not to bad , might try 27.5inc next .if no good are get a new 700c wheel and use another bike till I get one
I just unboxed my bike and have spent Close to two hours trying to get the front tire on! I can’t seem to drop it into where it needs to be.
it just looks funky! You would have to change the fork i guess..
Or just not do it.
Paul components makes a brake kit specifically for this type of modification 😊
What is the brake kit called?
Nice frame...