Another outstanding tutorial. I think that your breakdown for the 3 different user levels is a brilliant idea. You have upped the RUclips game. Thanks again Brent.
Great video Brent👍🏻 I’ve watched heaps of RUclips on GoPro settings for riders, but you’re the only one who also explains why to use those settings. (ie pixels and image size etc) I’m new to GoPro and was offered an offical position as videographer for a large organised ride… a role I take seriously, and your informative videos are gold to me learning from your experience. Cheers
Hey Clint, I'm glad you are finding the series useful. You might want to watch my couple of Post Flinders updates as well where I give some updated settings info.
So... Two minutes after watching this video, I was installing GoPro Labs firmware and adjusting my settings on both my GoPro Hero 8 Black and GoPro Max. I love the QR code functionality for quick-changing settings. I'm not sure I would have found about it anytime soon if not for this video. Great job!
Have you seen the QR App that is in the App store... Very cool. What is nice is that you can save the QR codes it generates to your photos, so you can access your favorites really easily. The other one that is cool is programming it to do timelapses automatically.... "Start this timelape 45min before sunrise". and then you just put the camera out, go to bed... wake up after sunrise, but it's done!!!! Super cool.
sharpness i dont agree, though i dont know what gopro we talking here but my hero9 on newest firmware 1.72 , sharpening effect on high is very good and rather subtle, you have to zoom still image from video to see diffference between high and low
Totally agree with the chin mount👌 i like the idea of recording in 4.3 for POV i didn't realize it allows you the buffer for up and down. i will have to see if i can change the aspect ratio on my DJI.
Thanks for the video. BTW, I find the 1440p the most useful for my application since most of the time I just need to make POV adjustments in the vertical direction for off-road riding.
You are the best motovlogging informational channel on RUclips. Thank you for your hard work and explanations. Got a sub from me. Shared all your playlist to my friends as well.
Hi Brent Pearson, thanks for producing these videos. Using a Gopro 5, I found the older SD card I was using could not handle the settings outlined in your video. The card would record for 8 seconds then stop and display SD Card Error. The card works fine in other hardware. A Google search indicates it may not be able to write fast enough. A newer card worked fine.
Funnily enough I'm actually posting a new video on this topic later today. I've been doing further testing and refining. Shoot 24fps if you are not doing slowmo... this shouldn't be a problem for your GoPro.
Great series. Well needed. Are you going to mention storage of files i future episodes and how you manage that on long trips? Whether the GoPro cloud storage is worthwhile etc?
Hi, Brent! Here's a couple of questions: Do you find any issues or unwanted artifacts when conforming 60fps to 24fps in Premiere? Do the frames that get "thrown out" affect the overall motion blur of the footage? Is your recommendation of a 1/250 shutter speed for motorcycling irrespective of framerate? Would we still be getting the same motion blur shooting at different framerates? Should we ignore the 180-degree-rule when using GoPros for a specific sport (motorcycling, mountain biking, skateboarding) to find our own ideal shutter speed? Why not lock our shutter speeds on a GoPro to ensure we're getting the correct motion blur we want? Is this to give image stabilization more room to work? Apologies for bombarding you with questions. This videography wormhole is an interesting one. I appreciate your videos and valuable information.
Hey Junior... A good set of questions, let me answer them. Issues confirming to 24fps. Yes you are right. Check out this video ruclips.net/video/3zCxqtRdcVM/видео.html After doing further testing, I now edit at 30fps and shoot at either 30 of 60fps which fixes the issues. I've found 1/250sec seems to create the right amount of blur for motorcycling speeds... the blur is a function of speed, so the optimum shutter speed will vary depending on the subject/speed that you are going. I've found 1/250sec gives me enough to look quite cinematic, but not so much that it will impact stabilisation. Yes, while I was trained using the 180 rule, and that is where my Gopro experimentation started, I found that it does not apply to fast moving sports like motorcycling. The reason I don't lock shutter is that correct exposure is more important than correct blur in my priority list. If I lock shutter, and the aperture is not variable, then there are only 2 ways to control exposure, ND filters and ISO. If you get your ND filter a bit wrong you can easily force the camera outside of it's ISO range (it can't go slower than 100 iso). So for me, I like to try to get the ND filter right so that the camera will AUTOMATICALLY set the shutter around 1/250 sec (see my lesson on ND filters and the iPhone app I use to measure the light), but if I'm out by a bit, my exposure will still ALWAYS be perfect, but I might just get more or less blurring. I hope this helps. If you look at my Idaho BDR video, you will see my latest GoPRo video quality. I'm pretty happy with it now.
high bitrate gives like 5% better image but is takes almost double the size......... not worth it for most part imo; not for action shots at least ;
2 года назад
Great video Peter. Very informative. So now that the GoPro 10 is rolling would you change any of your settings on the go pro 10... Would be a great help if you could share your insight and advice on this. Regards.
Yes I have tweaked my settings a bit. Main change is min iso=100. Max iso=200 The GoPro was cranking up iso much earlier than most cameras do in auto. I also go a bit lighter on the nd now. I’m typically running an nd8 if I’m shooting in sun and shade (like in trees). Happy with this result.
2 года назад
@@brentbat lovely.. Planning to get Go Pro soon. Was doing research when I stumbled on to your video. Great knowledge. I hope we will see some more tutorials if you find anything interesting. Big Love from India. Respect and Regards.
@ If you look through my channel you'll see a lot of tutorials on gopro, and various experiments that I have run etc.
Год назад
@@brentbat yes Brent. I am looking at your videos.. will be going over them slowly. Mind if i disturb u from time to time regarding any queries i have ... Would be really great if I could get few minutes of your precious time !! 🙂🙏🏻
Год назад
@@brentbat Brent one more request. Would it be possible to contact you by any other means ?? Like an Instagram or a mail id. If yes would you be kind to share. Only if you are comfortable. Regards.
Fantastic! I am in the early stages of vlogging, so am using iMovie because my computer can’t handle FCP, Adobe PP etc. and thats a learning curve unto itself but I am almost ready to step up. I started vlogging to show my friends the scenery in a personal way as seen from a motorcycle, is that what you mean by POV? By Cinematic do you mean the interaction with the other bike, thats the focus, not the scenery nor the drivers perspective?
Yes, POV means "Point of View".... the camera showing what it is like from the bike (wide shot showing handlebars, dash etc.)..... and Cinematic is when the focus is another rider or the landscape, but you don't want the bike to distract.
@@brentbat ahhhh that was helpful. I could see cinematic being very effective for what I am doing, another rider plus the scenery but just scenery, no rider, no my bike, would like kind of sterile and would really drive the need of the voice over to be strong. Thanks again!
Ive watched lessons 1 and 2 and am hooked. Superb. Just bought a hero 9 while on a trip to Finland and just finished editing all my footage down to a 9 min video (includes photos as well). Had great fun doing that using iMovie. I now am tempted to redo using what I’ve learned from you. I’m looking forward to devouring your other videos. One thing that has been frustrating is managing the footage ie getting it onto my Mac and handling the large file sizes... shot in 1080 but will be even larger going forward in 4K and 2.7k. Have you a video covering getting footage to the right place? Do you advocate using the GoPro app for managing files in the cloud? I WILL HAVE MORE QUESTIONS. Best wishes from Dublin. BMW K1600GTL😀
Hey Scannan Thanks for your note, and I'm glad that I have you hooked. If you haven't seen it yet, I've done a whole series on how to edit. Number 2 talks about organising assets etc, so that might help you out. Yes, video files are big, so you need good organisation and a good archiving strategy to move them off your hard drive when your project is over. Here's the video editing series. Enjoy ruclips.net/p/PLT32jLKJaV8OhhIKkGyG3WEOoCRVn07Cj
Heej Brent, thanks for the video. I only have one question: Why would you use 2.7k 4.3 if you can use 4k in 60 frames as well? You will have a heigher resolution and thus more cropping possibilities.
Hi Tobias, it's the aspect ratio that is different. The 4:3 ratio ADDS EXTRA to the 16:9 ratio. So for example if I select 4K, then I get an image with 16:9 resolution, but when I enable 4:3, I get a wider angle of view vertically. This means in the edit, I can fill the frame with the width, but I can slide the whole image up and down to better frame the image. If I shoot 4K 16:9, yes, I can drop in more, but I don't get the extra vertical angle to play with. Does that make sense? The lower resolution doesn't bother me as I'm usually not cropping in tight, in fact I'm trying for wider angle, so 2.7k 4:3 gives more options for framing (assuming I'm not zooming in).
@@brentbat Thank you for your fast reply. I have watched all of your lessons and I am learning a lot, so thanks for that. You have more experience than me with filming etc, so maybe I am wrong but can't you film in 4K, which has an even higher resolution vertically then 2.7K 4.3 if I am not mistkaken, and then during editing change the aspect ratio to 4.3 so you end up with an extra vertical angle to play with? So you end up even with a (only a small amount of) higher resolution. Or is this cropping in to much work for the extra resolution (2160 - 2028 = 132) you are winning? But on the other hand maybe your shot was already good and you can use the full 4k resolution. One more question: So you are shooting 60 fps and editing and uploading in 24 fps?
@@tobiasvanderzwan5195 Hey Tobias, no, it doesn't work that way... let me try to explain. The sensor in the GoPro is actually 4:3 in aspect ratio.. So if you shoot at it's full resolution, then it is using every pixel in the sensor and it is shooting at 4:3 ratio. When you set it to a 16:9 ratio (doesn't matter if it is 4K-16:9 or 2.7K-16:9), then the image has cropped some of the top and bottom. So even if I shoot at 2.7K-4:3, while my file may not have as many pixels horizontally as a 4K image, it will contain parts of the image on the top and the bottom that the 16X9 image just hasn't captured... So even though the 16X9 has a greater resolution, it can't bring back the part of the image that was cropped out. If this is still confusing to you, let me know and do a very quick demo video for you to illustrate it.
@@brentbat Thanks for the clear explanation. It helped a lot. I was confusing aspect ratio with resolution, but I get it now. So I wanna thank you for that. Keep up the good work!
Thanks Brent. Any further thoughts on keeping it in 60 FPS? If you didn’t need the slow motion, would you throw it in 24 FPS for the motion blur or are you generally happier with the higher frame rate regardless of whether or not you use it for slow mo?
Hey Arrick, I'm going to cover this topic extensively in Lesson 4 on ND filters. Just to clarify something, The frame rate is totally independent from the shutter speed. So dropping from 60fps to 24fps in itself won't impact motion blur.... It's whether or not you lower the shutter speed as well from 1/125th to 1/48 sec. Funnily enough I started my experimentation at 24fps and 1/48s shutter. What I found was that this was creating too much motion blur and interfering with the image stabilisation. So I ran a number of tests and found that 1/125sec gives you good blur, but doesn't seem to affect image stabilisation. I could shoot at 24fps and 1/125s if I had no intention of doing slow mo. That would result in smaller files. But my thinking is this..... Storage is actually pretty cheap now. I have bought a bunch of 128GB cards so I have tons of storage. If I shoot at 60fps, I'm just creating big files but I ALWAYS have the option of slowing stuff down if I want to get cinematic or do a slowmo. If I shoot at 24fps, then I remove that option in post-production. I hope that makes sense.
@@brentbat Thanks for the detailed breakdown. Super interesting and I didn’t consider the effect on image stabilization. Looking forward to the ND filter video. I just picked up a set from PolarPro for the Hero 8 and haven’t really played with them yet. This is super helpful. 🙌
@@ArrickMaurice , A few things to consider. 1) The GoPro 8 had a really big design flaw, they removed the ability to take off the lens cover... this was there in GoPro 7 and was put back in GoPro 9. I have the 8 and the 9. For the 8, there are really two options for ND filters, PolarPro magnetic or the Freewell push ons with the cage. I started with the PolarPro and LOST 6 of the filters. I don't believe the magnets are strong enough for Adv riding... Too easy to brush against them and they drop off. I bought the Freewell filters that go on the cage and I haven't lost a single filter yet (touch wood). But now I'm using my GoPro 9 as my primary camera and my 8 as my secondary camera. If you haven't used the PolarPros, you might want to think about swapping them to Frewell.
Hello, you make very useful video. I have a question, can i shoot in 1080 and then upscale to 2.7k to unlock the better codec? How would be the result? Thanks
Hi Gio Yes, you can do that. That is essentially what I do. I shoot in 4K, but then I edit in 1080p, but I upscale it to 2.7K to enable the higher codec. It looks great.
@@brentbat @Brent Pearson i tried your settings and so far they are pretty good. The only problem is that on roads with trees the shadows are too black. But in direct sun its all good. Can a resolve by adjusting the ev comp or the iso. Or i need to boost the light in post production?
@@gioysevil Hey Gio, gladd that the settings are working for you. I would probably try boosting shadows in Post production if you do editing? What editor are you using? Otherwise you can try removing the -0.5 ev, but you might see clouds blowing out pure white in that case. Unfortunately you are hitting the dynamic range limits of the GoPro.
Enjoyed your videos and they helped greatly in setting up my Hero 11. Though for some reason GP11 does not have 30/60fps but has 24/ 25/ 50/ 100fps. So for now I have used 50fps where you use 60fps figuring that would give the same result. Am I right in assuming that? Also in POV you use 4: 3 - I have in the 11 also the choice of 8:7 and have used that instead giving even more room to play with the footage afterwards, I hope. Is that smart or am I better of setting it to use 4:3? Looking forward to your knowledgeable answers.
Hey Inge, have you set your gopro to PAL or European setting? that is most likely going to change which shutter speeds are available. I have all my gear set to NTSC which gives me the 30/60 shutter speeds..... Because you are using RUclips and not "broadcasting" your video on television, you don't need to set for PAL. Yes, I read that the GoPro 11 has 8:7 ratio and I would most likely set to that for my POV to give me more slippage. I'd also take a look at Hyperview.
@@brentbat Thanks for the reply. I have now changed the settings to ntsc so that I have the 30/60ftps. Have set pov to the 8:7 ratio.At the moment am still getting to grips with premier elements. Have a few more clips to do some cutting on then moving on to adjusting lighting and such. And lastly am going to work out how to put the footage (8:7) into the 16:9 grid.
@@theroamingrover-montys_way Glad that things are coming together for you. Regarding your last question.... When you set up your project in your editor with a 16:9 aspect ratio... then when you bring in your GoPro footage, The editor will see that the aspect ratios don't match. The editor will typically do one of two things: 1) Scale it down so that all of your video is displayed vertically (which means you will get black bars on the left and right side). or 2) Scale it so that it fits horizontally (then the video is overhanging on the top and bottom). You want option 2. Because then you can manually adjust the video up or down to refine the framing in the editing. I hope this makes sense.
@@brentbat Thanks a gazillion - makes total sense. Just have to still find out how to get to option 2. At the beginning of the project I told Elements to ignore to scale it down to 16:9. Figured I would first finish sorting out the length of the clips and then get to the framing. little by little will figure it out.
@@theroamingrover-montys_way I would do some tests and try turning that scale down option on and off and see what it does. That may be what you need if it fills the frame left-to-right. Then you should be able to reframe the cliip by dragging it vertically up and down.
Excellent, glad you are enjoying it. By the way since I shot this I did further experimentation (videos are in the channel), and I now edit at 30fps (instead of 24fps), so I shoot at either 30 or 60fps (depending on whether I want slowmo or not).
@@Nazim.D My editing timeline is 30fps. So if I'm shooting stuff that I don't think I'm going to slow down (like POV shots showing the handlebars) then I shoot this at 30fps. If I'm shooting stuff that I think I might want to slow down in post for cinematic looks, then I shoot in 60fps. So all my drone stuff is at 60fps, and when I flip my GoPro into "Cinematic" profile, which uses a linear lens + Horizon levelling, then I shoot that at 60fps because I may choose to slow some shots of other riders down. I hope that helps. There is absolutely no penalty shooting in 60fps other than it takes more space on your sd cards. So if you have plenty of storage, then I'd shoot most of your footage at 60fps.
I've kept with the proshot, but I have just ordered another chin mount to try out... waiting for that to arrive. But I'm pretty happy with the Proshot, I can put it on and off in about 5 seconds, it's rock solid, and now that I've added a little extension to make the GoPro sit a bit higher, it's perfect, I can see the screen and my framing while I'm shooting, but still look out over the top of the gopro... so I've dialled the height in perfectly for my use.
@@brentbat thanks! I’m new to even idea the of making my own videos and your channel has been a great resource. Always looking forward to the next installment!
Hi Brent, Really enjoy your videos. Great work! I’m considering pulling the trigger on a proshot mount. I currently use a cheap mount that straps on to the chin bar which doesn’t allow me to close the visor fully. Did your alternative mount turn up? I’m curious whether you’ve found an alternative to the proshot? Cheers
@@matthewabbott7221 no I’m still using the proshot. It works well for me, especially with the extender bracket I have on there. It lifts the camera up so I can see top of screen.
Another very informative video. Much thanks! Curious to learn about the other chin mount you’re experimenting with. I use the ProShot and believe it’s pretty good for mounting a GoPro. Like you I prefer the POV as opposed to the TellyTubbie view or the side of helmet view. ruclips.net/video/GcWyvd2BjJM/видео.html Looking forward to your audio (mic in jacket) setup video. Particularly interested to see how you run the mic cable from the jacket to the camera - without snagging it. Thanks again!
Another outstanding tutorial. I think that your breakdown for the 3 different user levels is a brilliant idea. You have upped the RUclips game. Thanks again Brent.
Great video Brent👍🏻
I’ve watched heaps of RUclips on GoPro settings for riders, but you’re the only one who also explains why to use those settings. (ie pixels and image size etc)
I’m new to GoPro and was offered an offical position as videographer for a large organised ride… a role I take seriously, and your informative videos are gold to me learning from your experience.
Cheers
Hey Clint, I'm glad you are finding the series useful. You might want to watch my couple of Post Flinders updates as well where I give some updated settings info.
btw 60fps is absolutely not for slow motion, its just much nicer to watch, gives very fluent and more natural video
Great Information, thank you for taking the time to educate us.
Thank you for your time Brent. Keep the content coming 👍
Great video. Thank you.
Thank you for the great video, I answered a lot of questions :)
Thanks so much for these great videos!
Excellent explanation and good insights into your workflow. Thank you.
Great video. Will definitely apply some of this when the snow is gone. Appreciate all the effort you put into these clips. Cheers.
So... Two minutes after watching this video, I was installing GoPro Labs firmware and adjusting my settings on both my GoPro Hero 8 Black and GoPro Max. I love the QR code functionality for quick-changing settings. I'm not sure I would have found about it anytime soon if not for this video. Great job!
Have you seen the QR App that is in the App store... Very cool. What is nice is that you can save the QR codes it generates to your photos, so you can access your favorites really easily. The other one that is cool is programming it to do timelapses automatically.... "Start this timelape 45min before sunrise". and then you just put the camera out, go to bed... wake up after sunrise, but it's done!!!! Super cool.
No, I wasn't aware of the QR App. That sounds amazing! Thanks for the heads up.
sharpness i dont agree, though i dont know what gopro we talking here but my hero9 on newest firmware 1.72 , sharpening effect on high is very good and rather subtle, you have to zoom still image from video to see diffference between high and low
Just rememberd why my gopro 9 is not been used since i got it 9 months ago ... ugh....thats alot of tech ...best ive seen
Totally agree with the chin mount👌 i like the idea of recording in 4.3 for POV i didn't realize it allows you the buffer for up and down. i will have to see if i can change the aspect ratio on my DJI.
Another great vid with a heap of info.....thanks Brent!
Absolutely brilliant video Brent, thanks for covering this stuff 🤙
Awesome. Going to test out the settings tomorrow..
Good video, thanks 👍
Thanks for the video. BTW, I find the 1440p the most useful for my application since most of the time I just need to make POV adjustments in the vertical direction for off-road riding.
You are the best motovlogging informational channel on RUclips. Thank you for your hard work and explanations. Got a sub from me. Shared all your playlist to my friends as well.
Hey Humble Greek... thanks for your comment, I really appreciate it. I enjoy sharing knowledge that others find valuable.
Hi Brent Pearson, thanks for producing these videos.
Using a Gopro 5, I found the older SD card I was using could not handle the settings outlined in your video.
The card would record for 8 seconds then stop and display SD Card Error. The card works fine in other hardware.
A Google search indicates it may not be able to write fast enough. A newer card worked fine.
Funnily enough I'm actually posting a new video on this topic later today. I've been doing further testing and refining. Shoot 24fps if you are not doing slowmo... this shouldn't be a problem for your GoPro.
I'm a complete noob and this video helps alot! Thanks! 👍
Great series. Well needed. Are you going to mention storage of files i future episodes and how you manage that on long trips? Whether the GoPro cloud storage is worthwhile etc?
Good video, thanks a lot. Will be trying it out on my GoPro 9.
Hey Top3, make sure you check out my latest video... I have refined my recommendations a bit based on further testing.
Thanks. Realy good an informative.
Really useful stuff. Thank you!
Hi, Brent! Here's a couple of questions:
Do you find any issues or unwanted artifacts when conforming 60fps to 24fps in Premiere? Do the frames that get "thrown out" affect the overall motion blur of the footage?
Is your recommendation of a 1/250 shutter speed for motorcycling irrespective of framerate? Would we still be getting the same motion blur shooting at different framerates?
Should we ignore the 180-degree-rule when using GoPros for a specific sport (motorcycling, mountain biking, skateboarding) to find our own ideal shutter speed?
Why not lock our shutter speeds on a GoPro to ensure we're getting the correct motion blur we want? Is this to give image stabilization more room to work?
Apologies for bombarding you with questions. This videography wormhole is an interesting one. I appreciate your videos and valuable information.
Hey Junior... A good set of questions, let me answer them.
Issues confirming to 24fps. Yes you are right. Check out this video ruclips.net/video/3zCxqtRdcVM/видео.html
After doing further testing, I now edit at 30fps and shoot at either 30 of 60fps which fixes the issues.
I've found 1/250sec seems to create the right amount of blur for motorcycling speeds... the blur is a function of speed, so the optimum shutter speed will vary depending on the subject/speed that you are going. I've found 1/250sec gives me enough to look quite cinematic, but not so much that it will impact stabilisation.
Yes, while I was trained using the 180 rule, and that is where my Gopro experimentation started, I found that it does not apply to fast moving sports like motorcycling.
The reason I don't lock shutter is that correct exposure is more important than correct blur in my priority list. If I lock shutter, and the aperture is not variable, then there are only 2 ways to control exposure, ND filters and ISO. If you get your ND filter a bit wrong you can easily force the camera outside of it's ISO range (it can't go slower than 100 iso). So for me, I like to try to get the ND filter right so that the camera will AUTOMATICALLY set the shutter around 1/250 sec (see my lesson on ND filters and the iPhone app I use to measure the light), but if I'm out by a bit, my exposure will still ALWAYS be perfect, but I might just get more or less blurring.
I hope this helps. If you look at my Idaho BDR video, you will see my latest GoPRo video quality. I'm pretty happy with it now.
Perfect.
high bitrate gives like 5% better image but is takes almost double the size......... not worth it for most part imo; not for action shots at least ;
Great video Peter. Very informative. So now that the GoPro 10 is rolling would you change any of your settings on the go pro 10... Would be a great help if you could share your insight and advice on this. Regards.
Yes I have tweaked my settings a bit. Main change is min iso=100. Max iso=200
The GoPro was cranking up iso much earlier than most cameras do in auto.
I also go a bit lighter on the nd now. I’m typically running an nd8 if I’m shooting in sun and shade (like in trees).
Happy with this result.
@@brentbat lovely.. Planning to get Go Pro soon. Was doing research when I stumbled on to your video. Great knowledge. I hope we will see some more tutorials if you find anything interesting. Big Love from India. Respect and Regards.
@ If you look through my channel you'll see a lot of tutorials on gopro, and various experiments that I have run etc.
@@brentbat yes Brent. I am looking at your videos.. will be going over them slowly. Mind if i disturb u from time to time regarding any queries i have ... Would be really great if I could get few minutes of your precious time !! 🙂🙏🏻
@@brentbat Brent one more request. Would it be possible to contact you by any other means ?? Like an Instagram or a mail id. If yes would you be kind to share. Only if you are comfortable. Regards.
Fantastic! I am in the early stages of vlogging, so am using iMovie because my computer can’t handle FCP, Adobe PP etc. and thats a learning curve unto itself but I am almost ready to step up. I started vlogging to show my friends the scenery in a personal way as seen from a motorcycle, is that what you mean by POV? By Cinematic do you mean the interaction with the other bike, thats the focus, not the scenery nor the drivers perspective?
Yes, POV means "Point of View".... the camera showing what it is like from the bike (wide shot showing handlebars, dash etc.)..... and Cinematic is when the focus is another rider or the landscape, but you don't want the bike to distract.
@@brentbat ahhhh that was helpful. I could see cinematic being very effective for what I am doing, another rider plus the scenery but just scenery, no rider, no my bike, would like kind of sterile and would really drive the need of the voice over to be strong. Thanks again!
Ive watched lessons 1 and 2 and am hooked. Superb. Just bought a hero 9 while on a trip to Finland and just finished editing all my footage down to a 9 min video (includes photos as well). Had great fun doing that using iMovie. I now am tempted to redo using what I’ve learned from you. I’m looking forward to devouring your other videos. One thing that has been frustrating is managing the footage ie getting it onto my Mac and handling the large file sizes... shot in 1080 but will be even larger going forward in 4K and 2.7k. Have you a video covering getting footage to the right place? Do you advocate using the GoPro app for managing files in the cloud? I WILL HAVE MORE QUESTIONS. Best wishes from Dublin. BMW K1600GTL😀
Hey Scannan
Thanks for your note, and I'm glad that I have you hooked. If you haven't seen it yet, I've done a whole series on how to edit. Number 2 talks about organising assets etc, so that might help you out. Yes, video files are big, so you need good organisation and a good archiving strategy to move them off your hard drive when your project is over. Here's the video editing series. Enjoy
ruclips.net/p/PLT32jLKJaV8OhhIKkGyG3WEOoCRVn07Cj
thanks for this!!!
Hugely helpful. What settings do you use for your drone? 2.7k @ 60fps as well or 4k @ 60 fps (if drone has that capability)? Thank you again!
Drone is on 4K @60fps so that I can run smooth slowmo if required.
@@brentbat thank you much appreciated!
My DJI Osmo Action will only do 30fps in 2.7k 4:3 😑
Heej Brent, thanks for the video. I only have one question: Why would you use 2.7k 4.3 if you can use 4k in 60 frames as well? You will have a heigher resolution and thus more cropping possibilities.
Hi Tobias, it's the aspect ratio that is different. The 4:3 ratio ADDS EXTRA to the 16:9 ratio. So for example if I select 4K, then I get an image with 16:9 resolution, but when I enable 4:3, I get a wider angle of view vertically. This means in the edit, I can fill the frame with the width, but I can slide the whole image up and down to better frame the image. If I shoot 4K 16:9, yes, I can drop in more, but I don't get the extra vertical angle to play with. Does that make sense? The lower resolution doesn't bother me as I'm usually not cropping in tight, in fact I'm trying for wider angle, so 2.7k 4:3 gives more options for framing (assuming I'm not zooming in).
@@brentbat Thank you for your fast reply. I have watched all of your lessons and I am learning a lot, so thanks for that. You have more experience than me with filming etc, so maybe I am wrong but can't you film in 4K, which has an even higher resolution vertically then 2.7K 4.3 if I am not mistkaken, and then during editing change the aspect ratio to 4.3 so you end up with an extra vertical angle to play with? So you end up even with a (only a small amount of) higher resolution. Or is this cropping in to much work for the extra resolution (2160 - 2028 = 132) you are winning? But on the other hand maybe your shot was already good and you can use the full 4k resolution.
One more question: So you are shooting 60 fps and editing and uploading in 24 fps?
@@tobiasvanderzwan5195 Hey Tobias, no, it doesn't work that way... let me try to explain. The sensor in the GoPro is actually 4:3 in aspect ratio.. So if you shoot at it's full resolution, then it is using every pixel in the sensor and it is shooting at 4:3 ratio. When you set it to a 16:9 ratio (doesn't matter if it is 4K-16:9 or 2.7K-16:9), then the image has cropped some of the top and bottom.
So even if I shoot at 2.7K-4:3, while my file may not have as many pixels horizontally as a 4K image, it will contain parts of the image on the top and the bottom that the 16X9 image just hasn't captured... So even though the 16X9 has a greater resolution, it can't bring back the part of the image that was cropped out.
If this is still confusing to you, let me know and do a very quick demo video for you to illustrate it.
@@brentbat Thanks for the clear explanation. It helped a lot. I was confusing aspect ratio with resolution, but I get it now. So I wanna thank you for that. Keep up the good work!
Thanks Brent. Any further thoughts on keeping it in 60 FPS? If you didn’t need the slow motion, would you throw it in 24 FPS for the motion blur or are you generally happier with the higher frame rate regardless of whether or not you use it for slow mo?
Hey Arrick, I'm going to cover this topic extensively in Lesson 4 on ND filters. Just to clarify something, The frame rate is totally independent from the shutter speed. So dropping from 60fps to 24fps in itself won't impact motion blur.... It's whether or not you lower the shutter speed as well from 1/125th to 1/48 sec.
Funnily enough I started my experimentation at 24fps and 1/48s shutter. What I found was that this was creating too much motion blur and interfering with the image stabilisation. So I ran a number of tests and found that 1/125sec gives you good blur, but doesn't seem to affect image stabilisation.
I could shoot at 24fps and 1/125s if I had no intention of doing slow mo. That would result in smaller files. But my thinking is this..... Storage is actually pretty cheap now. I have bought a bunch of 128GB cards so I have tons of storage. If I shoot at 60fps, I'm just creating big files but I ALWAYS have the option of slowing stuff down if I want to get cinematic or do a slowmo. If I shoot at 24fps, then I remove that option in post-production. I hope that makes sense.
@@brentbat Thanks for the detailed breakdown. Super interesting and I didn’t consider the effect on image stabilization. Looking forward to the ND filter video. I just picked up a set from PolarPro for the Hero 8 and haven’t really played with them yet. This is super helpful. 🙌
@@ArrickMaurice , A few things to consider. 1) The GoPro 8 had a really big design flaw, they removed the ability to take off the lens cover... this was there in GoPro 7 and was put back in GoPro 9. I have the 8 and the 9. For the 8, there are really two options for ND filters, PolarPro magnetic or the Freewell push ons with the cage. I started with the PolarPro and LOST 6 of the filters. I don't believe the magnets are strong enough for Adv riding... Too easy to brush against them and they drop off. I bought the Freewell filters that go on the cage and I haven't lost a single filter yet (touch wood). But now I'm using my GoPro 9 as my primary camera and my 8 as my secondary camera. If you haven't used the PolarPros, you might want to think about swapping them to Frewell.
Hello, you make very useful video.
I have a question, can i shoot in 1080 and then upscale to 2.7k to unlock the better codec?
How would be the result?
Thanks
Hi Gio
Yes, you can do that. That is essentially what I do. I shoot in 4K, but then I edit in 1080p, but I upscale it to 2.7K to enable the higher codec. It looks great.
@@brentbat @Brent Pearson i tried your settings and so far they are pretty good.
The only problem is that on roads with trees the shadows are too black. But in direct sun its all good.
Can a resolve by adjusting the ev comp or the iso. Or i need to boost the light in post production?
@@gioysevil Hey Gio, gladd that the settings are working for you. I would probably try boosting shadows in Post production if you do editing? What editor are you using? Otherwise you can try removing the -0.5 ev, but you might see clouds blowing out pure white in that case. Unfortunately you are hitting the dynamic range limits of the GoPro.
@@brentbat Thanks. I will try to boost the shadows.
On the program i didn't decided yet. I am just starting😅
nice QR Code
Enjoyed your videos and they helped greatly in setting up my Hero 11. Though for some reason GP11 does not have 30/60fps but has 24/ 25/ 50/ 100fps. So for now I have used 50fps where you use 60fps figuring that would give the same result. Am I right in assuming that? Also in POV you use 4: 3 - I have in the 11 also the choice of 8:7 and have used that instead giving even more room to play with the footage afterwards, I hope. Is that smart or am I better of setting it to use 4:3? Looking forward to your knowledgeable answers.
Hey Inge, have you set your gopro to PAL or European setting? that is most likely going to change which shutter speeds are available. I have all my gear set to NTSC which gives me the 30/60 shutter speeds..... Because you are using RUclips and not "broadcasting" your video on television, you don't need to set for PAL.
Yes, I read that the GoPro 11 has 8:7 ratio and I would most likely set to that for my POV to give me more slippage. I'd also take a look at Hyperview.
@@brentbat Thanks for the reply. I have now changed the settings to ntsc so that I have the 30/60ftps. Have set pov to the 8:7 ratio.At the moment am still getting to grips with premier elements. Have a few more clips to do some cutting on then moving on to adjusting lighting and such. And lastly am going to work out how to put the footage (8:7) into the 16:9 grid.
@@theroamingrover-montys_way Glad that things are coming together for you. Regarding your last question.... When you set up your project in your editor with a 16:9 aspect ratio... then when you bring in your GoPro footage, The editor will see that the aspect ratios don't match. The editor will typically do one of two things:
1) Scale it down so that all of your video is displayed vertically (which means you will get black bars on the left and right side). or
2) Scale it so that it fits horizontally (then the video is overhanging on the top and bottom).
You want option 2. Because then you can manually adjust the video up or down to refine the framing in the editing. I hope this makes sense.
@@brentbat Thanks a gazillion - makes total sense. Just have to still find out how to get to option 2. At the beginning of the project I told Elements to ignore to scale it down to 16:9. Figured I would first finish sorting out the length of the clips and then get to the framing. little by little will figure it out.
@@theroamingrover-montys_way I would do some tests and try turning that scale down option on and off and see what it does. That may be what you need if it fills the frame left-to-right. Then you should be able to reframe the cliip by dragging it vertically up and down.
Nobody explained it better than you.
Excellent, glad you are enjoying it. By the way since I shot this I did further experimentation (videos are in the channel), and I now edit at 30fps (instead of 24fps), so I shoot at either 30 or 60fps (depending on whether I want slowmo or not).
@@brentbat good video in which situations do you shoot in 30 or 60 fps with your motorcycle
@@Nazim.D My editing timeline is 30fps. So if I'm shooting stuff that I don't think I'm going to slow down (like POV shots showing the handlebars) then I shoot this at 30fps. If I'm shooting stuff that I think I might want to slow down in post for cinematic looks, then I shoot in 60fps. So all my drone stuff is at 60fps, and when I flip my GoPro into "Cinematic" profile, which uses a linear lens + Horizon levelling, then I shoot that at 60fps because I may choose to slow some shots of other riders down. I hope that helps. There is absolutely no penalty shooting in 60fps other than it takes more space on your sd cards. So if you have plenty of storage, then I'd shoot most of your footage at 60fps.
How did the other chin mount do? Are you sticking with the proshot?
I've kept with the proshot, but I have just ordered another chin mount to try out... waiting for that to arrive. But I'm pretty happy with the Proshot, I can put it on and off in about 5 seconds, it's rock solid, and now that I've added a little extension to make the GoPro sit a bit higher, it's perfect, I can see the screen and my framing while I'm shooting, but still look out over the top of the gopro... so I've dialled the height in perfectly for my use.
@@brentbat thanks! I’m new to even idea the of making my own videos and your channel has been a great resource. Always looking forward to the next installment!
Hi Brent, Really enjoy your videos. Great work! I’m considering pulling the trigger on a proshot mount. I currently use a cheap mount that straps on to the chin bar which doesn’t allow me to close the visor fully. Did your alternative mount turn up? I’m curious whether you’ve found an alternative to the proshot? Cheers
@@matthewabbott7221 no I’m still using the proshot. It works well for me, especially with the extender bracket I have on there. It lifts the camera up so I can see top of screen.
Another very informative video. Much thanks! Curious to learn about the other chin mount you’re experimenting with. I use the ProShot and believe it’s pretty good for mounting a GoPro. Like you I prefer the POV as opposed to the TellyTubbie view or the side of helmet view. ruclips.net/video/GcWyvd2BjJM/видео.html
Looking forward to your audio (mic in jacket) setup video. Particularly interested to see how you run the mic cable from the jacket to the camera - without snagging it. Thanks again!
Hey Rakesh, this is the other chin mount that I have ordered www.dango-design.com/
The audio lesson will be going up tonight.
@@brentbat I’ve had that on my radar. Wasn’t sure of the ‘level’ of the POV. I’ll wait for your report on it! :)