Very helpful. The auto repair store was telling me I needed a new tie-rod and all new control arms on the passenger side. I jacked it up and could tell it was only the upper control arms that needed replacing (just got the car six months ago, some front end work was already done). With a new tie-rod they would have also have had to align it. I did it myself in 2 hours and spent $118 on parts. The auto repair was trying to charge me $1,600. Time to buy some beer and celebrate!!!
your upper control arm costed you that much? I bought almost all of them for that price. just now reviewing the video to brush up on what to do now lol.
Each one for my vehicle was only $20 a pop, & my car's an Audi. I don't know what you mean about them failing routinely either, because the only reason mine are bad is because someone ran into my parked car and bent them inwards lol.
I always had the understanding that the upper control arm bolts that run through the bushings should always be torqued to spec once the vehicle's suspension is under load (i.e. the position of the arms once the vehicle is on the ground and the suspension is under the load of the weight of the vehicle).
@VikNucKlHed That is absolutely right. However when I remove the uppers I install them in the same poisition they come out at. So the rubber bushings end up in the loaded position when torqued. Otherwise it is nearly impossible to torque the fateners with the suspension loaded.
Agonizing reading all the questions about torques which are all at the end of the video and the dumb questions about loading to tighten the control arm bolts. Stick a jack under the control arm and jack it up to where the wheel lugs line up with the holes in the wheel, or measure fender lip to ground before starting and jack to this level. Tighten the bolts. Problem solved.
@Gmudan1 when I remove the uppers I install them in the same position they come out at. So the rubber bushings end up in the loaded position when torqued. Otherwise it is nearly impossible to torque the fasteners with the suspension loaded.
If you put anti-seize on the new bolt that replaces the pinch bolt only on the shaft and not where the nut threads would that help to prevent corrosion next time?
im trying to remove the passenger pinch bolt right now. I'm gonna try a hammer drill as a substitute for an air hammer. My driver side came off with some good blunt force, but the passenger side just refuses to budge. I have let it soak with penetrating oil overnight, so I hope when I attempt later tonight, I can get the bolt to break loose a bit. great video. As good as Haynes are, Bentley are the most detailed manuals.
This video is EXCELLENT, THANK YOU!!!! I'm not a mechanic whatsoever with limited access to tools. It took me more than 5 hours of tapping on the pinch bolt with a 25cm long 5mm diameter punch and a 3 lbs hammer, with half a bottle of PB Blaster to remove the pinch bolt!!! There should be a somewhat easier way to dealt with that bs!!! Comments: I wouldn't remove the upper suspension rack. It is easy to detach the control arms from the suspension easily using 2x19 mm wrenches.
Great video, very helpful. One issue I ran into (other than that bear of a pinch bolt) was my uppers were completely wore out so I could not reinstall new ones in same position (the old ones just free spun). I had to install arms loosely, then put vehicle at curb weight and do my best to torque upper bolts. You are correct in previous post that this is very difficult to do. I also read that you can measure the angle but my car has lowering springs so the measurements were wrong.
@LetMeSeeThis99 Tightening torques are in the video. They pop up when the fasteners are torqued. Control arm ball joints and bushing fail. Usually causing noise of vibration. Go to bentleypublishers website and get the A6 repair manual for your vehicle. It will answer a lot of your questions.
great job..just one question when tightening bolts on the bushings , is it not possible to measure the ride or load height before lifting the car , then lift one side up at a time , to attain the height from centre bolt to lip of fender , and then tighten up bolts to toque at right height and torque.
I watched twice to see when you reattached the bolt in the strut to the bottom control arm...video doesn't show that. I assume to put bolt and nut loosely on, then tighten bolts from top, and then torque bottom bolt, prior to installing control arm end to the wheel end?
If you use an air chisel in the splits of the knuckle where the blot goes through. It will open them then if need be put the nut on, and the hit it with the sharp point with the air hammer
Not so helpful to sensor cut the part where the bolt comes loose, at ~2:16. Lots of rough marks too appear, showing you did some heavy work to get it started.
I would not pry on rubber boots. You can use flat chisel in the open to slightly release the pressure on the arms. That way yiu save your boots and do t have to hammer on the arms and marring them. Also your video made me apreciate being a tech I florida. No rust.
@BentleyPublishers Okay, I will have to buy off on that one... that would require marking prior to removing the bolts. I am just a DIY guy who has been working on my C5 A6 with 181k and ticking on the ODO... keep going on the videos! Good Stuff!!
It wouldnt come off...I also read in other places that the B6 knuckles were alluminum, not the B5s. Anyway it was in there good. I drove the car to a mechanic to do just the one side of the car. THanks!
Excellent instructions. You appear to have followed the factory manual instructions, which is fine, but do you know if it's possible to remove the control arms without removing the strut assembly? I saw at least one other video that seems to indicate that it is possible.
Ok guys I have to make a technical draw of Audi c5 (mine car) So I have a question about Size of Steering knuckle.. how long is it ? Obviously it looks shorter than the shock absorber ?
Verry good video but i allways put a bit of grease on the bolt thath holds the controll arms so u dont have the problem getting the loose whene u change theme in the future!
Thanks so much for this video i found it to be very useful in fact i probably would not have had success in complete the upper control arm replacement on my 2000 audi a4 without it. very well explained and the video shows all the details. if you dont have an impact gun or air hammer. Try lots of WD40 and 'mind tapping' with a small hammer, and apply some heat (ie blow torch or similar) and the bolt should be ok to remove.
Im having a bad time with mine. Bolt didnt even look rusty like this one. Was able to get the bolt to spin thought it was smooth sailing but be warned ! The bolt will turn making it own thread pattern but it could stop at any point. So here i am cut the head of the bolt cut back the threads on the other side because it mushroomed. Gonna borrow a air compressor soon and use my air hammer hopefully strong enough to blast this friggen bolt out. This is not an easy task for a DIY i suggest just pay a shop wayyy less headache
if the pinch bolt is seized and the penetrating oil , hammer or anything doesn't work . There is only one solution left. If you know how to use a Torch then safely heat the bolt and the knuckle , this will loosen the RUST. But then it will damage the both upper control arms. You would have to replace both of them .
One should only finger tighten the bolts through the bushes until the car is back on the ground and at normal level, otherwise, the bushes will be wound-up when static.
Very helpful. The auto repair store was telling me I needed a new tie-rod and all new control arms on the passenger side. I jacked it up and could tell it was only the upper control arms that needed replacing (just got the car six months ago, some front end work was already done). With a new tie-rod they would have also have had to align it. I did it myself in 2 hours and spent $118 on parts. The auto repair was trying to charge me $1,600. Time to buy some beer and celebrate!!!
your upper control arm costed you that much? I bought almost all of them for that price. just now reviewing the video to brush up on what to do now lol.
Each one for my vehicle was only $20 a pop, & my car's an Audi. I don't know what you mean about them failing routinely either, because the only reason mine are bad is because someone ran into my parked car and bent them inwards lol.
Grant Logan wow, that really stinks, I'd hate having to replace mine that often!
heck yes
xD
This is the best guide for cars. It has paid itself many times over with all the money saved from self repairs
Does this apply to the C5 allroad?
I always had the understanding that the upper control arm bolts that run through the bushings should always be torqued to spec once the vehicle's suspension is under load (i.e. the position of the arms once the vehicle is on the ground and the suspension is under the load of the weight of the vehicle).
Thank you!
@VikNucKlHed That is absolutely right. However when I remove the uppers I install them in the same poisition they come out at. So the rubber bushings end up in the loaded position when torqued. Otherwise it is nearly impossible to torque the fateners with the suspension loaded.
Agonizing reading all the questions about torques which are all at the end of the video and the dumb questions about loading to tighten the control arm bolts. Stick a jack under the control arm and jack it up to where the wheel lugs line up with the holes in the wheel, or measure fender lip to ground before starting and jack to this level. Tighten the bolts. Problem solved.
@Gmudan1 when I remove the uppers I install them in the same position they come out at. So the rubber bushings end up in the loaded position when torqued. Otherwise it is nearly impossible to torque the fasteners with the suspension loaded.
If you put anti-seize on the new bolt that replaces the pinch bolt only on the shaft and not where the nut threads would that help to prevent corrosion next time?
im trying to remove the passenger pinch bolt right now. I'm gonna try a hammer drill as a substitute for an air hammer. My driver side came off with some good blunt force, but the passenger side just refuses to budge. I have let it soak with penetrating oil overnight, so I hope when I attempt later tonight, I can get the bolt to break loose a bit.
great video. As good as Haynes are, Bentley are the most detailed manuals.
This video is EXCELLENT, THANK YOU!!!! I'm not a mechanic whatsoever with limited access to tools. It took me more than 5 hours of tapping on the pinch bolt with a 25cm long 5mm diameter punch and a 3 lbs hammer, with half a bottle of PB Blaster to remove the pinch bolt!!! There should be a somewhat easier way to dealt with that bs!!!
Comments:
I wouldn't remove the upper suspension rack. It is easy to detach the control arms from the suspension easily using 2x19 mm wrenches.
Great video, very helpful. One issue I ran into (other than that bear of a pinch bolt) was my uppers were completely wore out so I could not reinstall new ones in same position (the old ones just free spun). I had to install arms loosely, then put vehicle at curb weight and do my best to torque upper bolts. You are correct in previous post that this is very difficult to do. I also read that you can measure the angle but my car has lowering springs so the measurements were wrong.
@LetMeSeeThis99 Tightening torques are in the video. They pop up when the fasteners are torqued.
Control arm ball joints and bushing fail. Usually causing noise of vibration.
Go to bentleypublishers website and get the A6 repair manual for your vehicle. It will answer a lot of your questions.
great job..just one question when tightening bolts on the bushings , is it not possible to measure the ride or load height before lifting the car , then lift one side up at a time , to attain the height from centre bolt to lip of fender , and then tighten up bolts to toque at right height and torque.
How much pounds of torque are you putting on the nuts and bolts?
I watched twice to see when you reattached the bolt in the strut to the bottom control arm...video doesn't show that. I assume to put bolt and nut loosely on, then tighten bolts from top, and then torque bottom bolt, prior to installing control arm end to the wheel end?
It looks like you can buy just the bushings without the whole arm. How hard is it to remove the bushings from the arm and reinstall new ones?
Can I replace the pinch bolt with anything that fits or should I only use genuine Audi bolt?
If you use an air chisel in the splits of the knuckle where the blot goes through. It will open them then if need be put the nut on, and the hit it with the sharp point with the air hammer
voluntaryist
Good advice. Thank you.
@Hellz420 Yes, our ebahn DVD does cover that repair.
Would the procedure be similar to 2003 Passat 1.8 t?
hi do the upper arms determine ride height? if they are not positioned the same on both sides will one side of the care be lower than the other?
Hi, what if I got it already dissembled is there a way, template or some easy procedure, how to install them into the same place?
Not so helpful to sensor cut the part where the bolt comes loose, at ~2:16. Lots of rough marks too appear, showing you did some heavy work to get it started.
I would not pry on rubber boots. You can use flat chisel in the open to slightly release the pressure on the arms. That way yiu save your boots and do t have to hammer on the arms and marring them. Also your video made me apreciate being a tech I florida. No rust.
he is changing the arm so it doesn't matter about the boots but good point for if he was reusing the same control arm
@BentleyPublishers Okay, I will have to buy off on that one... that would require marking prior to removing the bolts. I am just a DIY guy who has been working on my C5 A6 with 181k and ticking on the ODO... keep going on the videos! Good Stuff!!
It wouldnt come off...I also read in other places that the B6 knuckles were alluminum, not the B5s. Anyway it was in there good. I drove the car to a mechanic to do just the one side of the car. THanks!
Excellent instructions. You appear to have followed the factory manual instructions, which is fine, but do you know if it's possible to remove the control arms without removing the strut assembly? I saw at least one other video that seems to indicate that it is possible.
@BentleyPublishers does the bentley manual dvd have videos on how to change the timing chain on a 2001 gti vr6?
Does Bentley include the torque specs?
Ok guys I have to make a technical draw of Audi c5 (mine car) So I have a question about Size of Steering knuckle.. how long is it ? Obviously it looks shorter than the shock absorber ?
After few weeks when i did this, one of the arm nearly half way out.... why? i'v putted new bolt.. thanks
@patrickwbaker You will want to torque with suspension loaded. This video is an overview only and not a substitute for our repair manual.
Verry good video but i allways put a bit of grease on the bolt thath holds the controll arms so u dont have the problem getting the loose whene u change theme in the future!
Thanks so much for this video i found it to be very useful in fact i probably would not have had success in complete the upper control arm replacement on my 2000 audi a4 without it. very well explained and the video shows all the details. if you dont have an impact gun or air hammer. Try lots of WD40 and 'mind tapping' with a small hammer, and apply some heat (ie blow torch or similar) and the bolt should be ok to remove.
what torque wrench are you using?
noises in suspension while drive,shake wheel,pick up car and try move arms with small crawbar but carefull dont damage any rubber parts/cover
Another issue.. You want to compress the suspension prior to tightening the control arms. Saves the bushings (rubber) on the control arms.
Im having a bad time with mine. Bolt didnt even look rusty like this one. Was able to get the bolt to spin thought it was smooth sailing but be warned ! The bolt will turn making it own thread pattern but it could stop at any point. So here i am cut the head of the bolt cut back the threads on the other side because it mushroomed. Gonna borrow a air compressor soon and use my air hammer hopefully strong enough to blast this friggen bolt out. This is not an easy task for a DIY i suggest just pay a shop wayyy less headache
now how similar is the setup to 09 audi a4?
if the pinch bolt is seized and the penetrating oil , hammer or anything doesn't work . There is only one solution left. If you know how to use a Torch then safely heat the bolt and the knuckle , this will loosen the RUST. But then it will damage the both upper control arms. You would have to replace both of them .
not permitted to tighten the control arms on the MacPherson strut yet. Ssame reason as the bushings n the bottom side => ride height!
great video, very clear instructions! These are also applicable for Passats.
@xplodeedy Thanks for the feedback!
One should only finger tighten the bolts through the bushes until the car is back on the ground and at normal level, otherwise, the bushes will be wound-up when static.
This was a huge help! Thanks!
Changed all the arms and car stil knocks ....what the hell else can it be ?
take good look at the front subframe bushes (the rear ones) I just did mine as they were goners
should have used the penetrating oil first... PO makes life so much easier.
nice torque wrench...i have a broken 1..
Excellent vid! Thanks!
Great video !
Great, great, but weare is the lubricate ?
Right, PO would have made it easier and maybe would have even saved the bolt
taking out the screw won't do it you need to spread the clamp
blow torch to heat it up, be careful their aluminum
Super pełen profesjonalizm :)
для нас да !
Well done! Thx.
very helpful
Excelent
Thanks very much
you should use at first some wd.40.....hitting the bolt with hammer it's not a wise ideea ....thread point of view speakin' LOL
точно) рассмешил
Fucking stupid pinch bolts...and idiot mechanics that don't put anti-seize on them.
Dělal to jak amatér co to nikdy nedělal...postup je poměrně dost špatný..