Exactly what I was looking for. Thank you!! Could you make a similar video for piccolo? I don’t see any screws on the piccolo. I think it must be the pins but can’t figure out how to adjust them.
Piccolo doesn't have adjustment screws normally and everything is very small, so I would have to zoom in and get a sharp picture to show that. The pins that you see are only there to secure the connections between keys and lugs. You don't adjust anything with those. Next time I am working on a piccolo I will turn on the camera. It should be in a few days
@@matijaflutes sorry, the piccolo video never happened, but the thing is that I switched to magnetic pads, no more glue, burning pads, or making a mess. They can be shimmed like normal pads. My patent filed two years ago :)
Hi there. Could you please advise on the specific screws I should adjust to fix the issue where my high E flat sounds flat with standard fingering but is in tune with the shortened fingering? I frequently alternate between the two fingerings in chromatic passages to balance the intonation with surrounding notes. I appreciate your help.
High E I suppose in the third octave... and the lower two E's fine? It's hard to tell without actually having the instrument in my hands, but sounding flat has more to do with key heights, headjoint cork placement, and how far the headjoint is pulled out. Once you move the head, all the mathematical ratios change, so it's a compromise which you have to compensate with the way you blow. Adjustments don't solve intonation problems. Flute is also not a perfect instrument, which refers to the intonation, so don't expect it to be as accurate as a piano. Equal tempered scale is off in the first place. Temperature and the way you blow affects the intonation a lot. The distance of the key cups from the toneholes should be properly set because it affects intonation as well. Too many factors, sorry I can't help long distance.
There are no screw adjustments for Eb. Check if D# key opens enough. If the key height is low it will make Eb flat. In fact all the keys on the footjoint should open more than centerjoint keys.
The foam or cork or felt fell out from under split E arm which pushes down low G key. You have to glue a piece of cork or felt or anything under it until it closes the low G but it doesn't really have to close completely, and you can leave it like 0.1mm open, or late with E key. You never want G to close before E when pushing E key down. Low G should always be a tiny bit late with E
However, keys are bent around on all flutes at some point. If they are perfectly centered and leveled, then you don't want to mess with them, but if you see that the key itself isn't where it's supposed to be, then you bend it into place, then level the pad by whatever means necessary that doesn't compromise the pad.
@@bhairavesh there's this screw thing at the back of F. I tried adjusting it but it messed up my E and D so I twisted it back to its original position🤧
@@refamaesanchez2870 If you work on F-F#, it will create lost motion somewhere or everywhere, so once you start the adjustments from F, you check E-F#, D-F#, F-F#-A#, A-A#, and Thumb-A# and after adjusting all that you have to fix lost motion by making new tails for basically everything other than F, and in the same order as I listed above. However, just fixing the F-F# adjustment should not change the adjustment situation with the rest of the right hand, just lost motion. It will change the adjustment with A# though, so you need to fix that one afterwards.
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Amazing, thank you🤗
This is the most amazing flute tutorial ever! If you want to adjust your student flute, watch this! Thank you!
THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!😁😁😁😁😁😁
You saved my flute with the bending tip!!!!!! Thank you! God bless!
I am glad this was helpful :)
This is a very very good tutorial. Many thanks for producing it and sharing your skill and experience with us.
Sure, I plan to do a lot more but too busy making flutes, behind the schedule
You have taught me to leave it to an expert like you.
God bless you with this tutorial it really help me alot
Good job. Sir . Thank you for sharing this video. Help me alot which I face this problem.
Very good. I'm screwing with C-C#. What a nightmare. But your explanation is very good and simple. Thank's a lot.
It's one of the most common problems and this is one trick that almost anyone with a little bit of brain and a few fingers can do :) You're welcome!
Thanks pal, brilliant tuition 👍
Thank You Master!
Thank You!
Thank you so much.This really helped
Exactly what I was looking for. Thank you!! Could you make a similar video for piccolo? I don’t see any screws on the piccolo. I think it must be the pins but can’t figure out how to adjust them.
Piccolo doesn't have adjustment screws normally and everything is very small, so I would have to zoom in and get a sharp picture to show that. The pins that you see are only there to secure the connections between keys and lugs. You don't adjust anything with those. Next time I am working on a piccolo I will turn on the camera. It should be in a few days
@@matijaflutes sorry, the piccolo video never happened, but the thing is that I switched to magnetic pads, no more glue, burning pads, or making a mess. They can be shimmed like normal pads. My patent filed two years ago :)
Thank you very much for this video
COOl 🌟😎👍
Hi there. Could you please advise on the specific screws I should adjust to fix the issue where my high E flat sounds flat with standard fingering but is in tune with the shortened fingering? I frequently alternate between the two fingerings in chromatic passages to balance the intonation with surrounding notes. I appreciate your help.
High E I suppose in the third octave... and the lower two E's fine? It's hard to tell without actually having the instrument in my hands, but sounding flat has more to do with key heights, headjoint cork placement, and how far the headjoint is pulled out. Once you move the head, all the mathematical ratios change, so it's a compromise which you have to compensate with the way you blow. Adjustments don't solve intonation problems. Flute is also not a perfect instrument, which refers to the intonation, so don't expect it to be as accurate as a piano. Equal tempered scale is off in the first place. Temperature and the way you blow affects the intonation a lot. The distance of the key cups from the toneholes should be properly set because it affects intonation as well. Too many factors, sorry I can't help long distance.
There are no screw adjustments for Eb. Check if D# key opens enough. If the key height is low it will make Eb flat. In fact all the keys on the footjoint should open more than centerjoint keys.
Wow!!! Thank you!
Hello what should i do when i press the Fbutton the Ebutton is go with the Fbutton.
Your E spring got unhooked! Hook it back on
My low G key will not close or move when I push on the E key. How can I adjust this?
The foam or cork or felt fell out from under split E arm which pushes down low G key. You have to glue a piece of cork or felt or anything under it until it closes the low G but it doesn't really have to close completely, and you can leave it like 0.1mm open, or late with E key. You never want G to close before E when pushing E key down. Low G should always be a tiny bit late with E
hi my flute gone sounds its self. when i press any notes nothing comes out
That doesn't sound good, haha. Could be so many things. Someone has to look at it.
Do other instruments please
I do only flutes and that's enough trouble, haha
This is good for student flutes but for intermediate, silver or professional flutes its mutch better to adjust the pads rather than bend the keys.
The title says "how to adjust a student flute", right?
However, keys are bent around on all flutes at some point. If they are perfectly centered and leveled, then you don't want to mess with them, but if you see that the key itself isn't where it's supposed to be, then you bend it into place, then level the pad by whatever means necessary that doesn't compromise the pad.
My F/F# is not working🤧
do you have an adjustment screw for F-F# or a back connector?
@@bhairavesh there's this screw thing at the back of F. I tried adjusting it but it messed up my E and D so I twisted it back to its original position🤧
@@refamaesanchez2870 If you work on F-F#, it will create lost motion somewhere or everywhere, so once you start the adjustments from F, you check E-F#, D-F#, F-F#-A#, A-A#, and Thumb-A# and after adjusting all that you have to fix lost motion by making new tails for basically everything other than F, and in the same order as I listed above. However, just fixing the F-F# adjustment should not change the adjustment situation with the rest of the right hand, just lost motion. It will change the adjustment with A# though, so you need to fix that one afterwards.