I've been looking online for videos that support this exact idea. I hope to make something like this as well. I enjoyed the video. Now I better go back to watch part 1. Thanks.
@@bobsadventuretime I appreciate that. I know I have a ton of questions already, but I'll finish watching all the videos, then I'll reflect a bit, and I may definitely take you up on your offer to field some questions. What you've done is very much what I've been bouncing around in my head. Awesome.....thanks again...cheers.
These latches do not lock from the inside. Most of the time, I sleep with the "windoors" open. The latches are reachable from inside the tent (if you have long arms) so you could close and lock the drivers / passenger sides while on the ground, climb up in the tent and close/lock the back. There's probably a "latching mechanism" that you could add on the inside if you wanted.
@Bob's Adventure Time What are you looking at for the interior height having the DECKED system in there?? I'm looking at a very similar set up but can't get any accurate numbers from anyone.
Sorry for the delay on this...from the DECKED system to the bottom of the wedge (the surface where you sleep) is 2'9". It's not a lot if you were going to spend any significant time sitting in the bed. I do love the DECKED system though. My bed panels are all removable, so i can fold up the foam mattress and remove the bed panels when the wedge is open. That provides enough space for me to stand.
Hi I’m looking at building one of these. I’m hoping to have a design that allows me to take the tent portion off easily. So I can use the canopy with a “temporary” roof half the time. When I go camping I could then remove the roof and refit the tent. Do you have any ideas of the best way to “temporarily” secure the roof tent/wedge part?
My plan was to replace the clam shell which is framed by aluminum extrusion with a lower profile roof only cap that is also framed be aluminum extrusion. They are connected to the base using multiple flat plates. You can see these flat plates in the last video.
If I was in the tent area, I can reach down and open the latches. I could also just climb out. I’m not sleeping in the back with the top down….I don’t fit.
My approach to source the aluminum composite material (ACM) was to call my local sign company and see what they had. They then referred me to their supplier. It goes by different brand names. The supplier that I ordered from was www.laminatorsinc.com/sign-panels/products/omega-bond. I got panels that were 5’x10’ and if I recall each sheet was a little north of $100. Don’t hold me to that price though as that is from memory and pre-supply chain issues. Hope that helps.
Great video. I'm glad you moved away from those threaded insert rivets, simple idea just not as beefy as I'd like. I didn't see it, but do your bolts for your hinges go all the way through your tubing structure? I'm kind of torn on how I want to do the panel next to the rear cab glass. I feel like that's gonna be a pain to take on and off, but I haven't worked though the design of it. Im glad you made the wooden structure, that's my plans for the 1st step too. I will try and see how yours angles work and hopefully save me some time but like you said, you'll need a frame to build around to keep things square. Great video, thanks for recording and making these
At 17:50 in this video (ruclips.net/video/jqheOSRgPc0/видео.html) you can see the hinges attached to the frame. The hinges are actually attached to steel flange that I welded to square tubing. You can get a better look at those flanges at 12:26 in that same video. For the fixed cab side panel, I did use the inserts. That gives me the option of removing it if I have to (e.g., painting the frame).
Sorry for the delayed response. I am using a Titanium welder from Harbor Freight. I believe it is this one: www.harborfreight.com/mig-170-professional-welder-with-120240v-input-64805.html
@@bobsadventuretime I just wanted to go over dimensions and what not. I want to build just an adventure cap with 80/20 and no wedge. Exactly like the gfc topper. Just wanted to see if you have any plans or drawings with measurements for the space frame. Thanks !
I see. Unfortunately I don’t have any plans or drawings. I figured out everything on the fly. I tried to share that in the videos but definitely not super thorough.
The latches grab on to a little "tab" that I welded on the frame. You can see it around 23:49 in this video: ruclips.net/video/jqheOSRgPc0/видео.html In that same video around 30:05 i show the rubber seals that I use for the windoors to water proof them. Hope that helps. Let me know if you have additional questions.
Hi Bob, excellent build and videos. I was wondering why you chose to use a steel base-frame instead of an Aluminum 8020 frame. Was the shape (with several lean in non-square corners) the reason you went with a welded steel frame?
A few things. First I was following a build that was for a Tacoma. I believe that person’s handle on RUclips is Ripcord. Second, I didn’t think I could make the cuts and get the angles on the 8020. I think you would need some custom plates at the connections. I’ve seen 8020 frames being sold more so maybe that’s the way to go.
Great build, one of the better ones I’ve seen ,I have been watching videos on this for 2 years before I try my build, thanks for the video
I've been looking online for videos that support this exact idea. I hope to make something like this as well. I enjoyed the video. Now I better go back to watch part 1. Thanks.
Thanks for watching. Happy to answer questions if you have any. It’s a fun project and I really enjoy having it in the truck.
@@bobsadventuretime I appreciate that. I know I have a ton of questions already, but I'll finish watching all the videos, then I'll reflect a bit, and I may definitely take you up on your offer to field some questions. What you've done is very much what I've been bouncing around in my head. Awesome.....thanks again...cheers.
a simple design that works.
Thank you! Cheers!
Great design! Do the latches open from the inside and/or lock from the inside for when you sleep at night/get up in the morning?
These latches do not lock from the inside. Most of the time, I sleep with the "windoors" open. The latches are reachable from inside the tent (if you have long arms) so you could close and lock the drivers / passenger sides while on the ground, climb up in the tent and close/lock the back. There's probably a "latching mechanism" that you could add on the inside if you wanted.
@Bob's Adventure Time What are you looking at for the interior height having the DECKED system in there?? I'm looking at a very similar set up but can't get any accurate numbers from anyone.
Sorry for the delay on this...from the DECKED system to the bottom of the wedge (the surface where you sleep) is 2'9". It's not a lot if you were going to spend any significant time sitting in the bed. I do love the DECKED system though. My bed panels are all removable, so i can fold up the foam mattress and remove the bed panels when the wedge is open. That provides enough space for me to stand.
Awesome
Great building! Very technical and pro, one question could you add the tent fabric supplier or source? As well as net? Thanks a lot!
I sourced the fabric on Amazon and the ketter rail at sailrite. Hope that helps.
Hi I’m looking at building one of these. I’m hoping to have a design that allows me to take the tent portion off easily. So I can use the canopy with a “temporary” roof half the time. When I go camping I could then remove the roof and refit the tent. Do you have any ideas of the best way to “temporarily” secure the roof tent/wedge part?
My plan was to replace the clam shell which is framed by aluminum extrusion with a lower profile roof only cap that is also framed be aluminum extrusion. They are connected to the base using multiple flat plates. You can see these flat plates in the last video.
Hello.
Nice build.
Could you open the panels from the interior?
No 🔑 for security?
Ty
If I was in the tent area, I can reach down and open the latches. I could also just climb out. I’m not sleeping in the back with the top down….I don’t fit.
@@bobsadventuretime please 🙏 have you a link to the latches?
Awesome...Love your build video. May I ask where you ordered your aluma panel from?
My approach to source the aluminum composite material (ACM) was to call my local sign company and see what they had. They then referred me to their supplier. It goes by different brand names. The supplier that I ordered from was www.laminatorsinc.com/sign-panels/products/omega-bond. I got panels that were 5’x10’ and if I recall each sheet was a little north of $100. Don’t hold me to that price though as that is from memory and pre-supply chain issues. Hope that helps.
Great video. I'm glad you moved away from those threaded insert rivets, simple idea just not as beefy as I'd like. I didn't see it, but do your bolts for your hinges go all the way through your tubing structure?
I'm kind of torn on how I want to do the panel next to the rear cab glass. I feel like that's gonna be a pain to take on and off, but I haven't worked though the design of it.
Im glad you made the wooden structure, that's my plans for the 1st step too. I will try and see how yours angles work and hopefully save me some time but like you said, you'll need a frame to build around to keep things square.
Great video, thanks for recording and making these
At 17:50 in this video (ruclips.net/video/jqheOSRgPc0/видео.html) you can see the hinges attached to the frame. The hinges are actually attached to steel flange that I welded to square tubing. You can get a better look at those flanges at 12:26 in that same video.
For the fixed cab side panel, I did use the inserts. That gives me the option of removing it if I have to (e.g., painting the frame).
What welder are you using?
Sorry for the delayed response. I am using a Titanium welder from Harbor Freight. I believe it is this one: www.harborfreight.com/mig-170-professional-welder-with-120240v-input-64805.html
You have a link for the push latches?
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072JCC7P8/. These are currently no longer available, but I see similar models on that page.
Hey bob. I have some questions for you.
How can i go about reaching you?
Happy to answer questions here for all to learn. Otherwise, bob.cravens at gmail.
@@bobsadventuretime I just wanted to go over dimensions and what not. I want to build just an adventure cap with 80/20 and no wedge. Exactly like the gfc topper. Just wanted to see if you have any plans or drawings with measurements for the space frame. Thanks !
I see. Unfortunately I don’t have any plans or drawings. I figured out everything on the fly. I tried to share that in the videos but definitely not super thorough.
@@bobsadventuretime how’d you water proof? For the latches what do the “grab” onto on the inside to lock?
The latches grab on to a little "tab" that I welded on the frame. You can see it around 23:49 in this video: ruclips.net/video/jqheOSRgPc0/видео.html
In that same video around 30:05 i show the rubber seals that I use for the windoors to water proof them.
Hope that helps. Let me know if you have additional questions.
You just started off with the wrong truck size, 6 1/2' box is the minimum length if you are going to be sleeping/camping in it!!
More bracing needed, I see many water entry points.? Continue.....
brah this music ..im out
Personally I don't like the way it was built and/or the material used.It seems to be too utilitarian.Also to much weight.
Hi Bob, excellent build and videos. I was wondering why you chose to use a steel base-frame instead of an Aluminum 8020 frame. Was the shape (with several lean in non-square corners) the reason you went with a welded steel frame?
A few things. First I was following a build that was for a Tacoma. I believe that person’s handle on RUclips is Ripcord. Second, I didn’t think I could make the cuts and get the angles on the 8020. I think you would need some custom plates at the connections. I’ve seen 8020 frames being sold more so maybe that’s the way to go.