6:43 the behaviour of timber is such that to slice it in a controlled manner you need to have the blade cut on an angle. The way you have it set up is only able to chop the timber. You should realign your blade accordingly to get best results. Also try adding a heavy steel plate hinged onto the side rail to prevent the timber from jumping when feeding into the blade.
Yes, but a single angle would put transversal constraints on the slider. You'd need a two-angled cutting edge to prevent the sled from tilting and jamming. And again, it wouldn't prevent one side of the blade being more loaded than the other (since the logs aren't centered). Moreover, any angle on the blade would reduce the cutting length: the amplitude of the mechanism is fixed, directly imparted by the eccentric, on the wheel.
Your shear pin can be made to shear at whatever stress you want by undercutting the bolt with two grooves from a parting tool on a lathe, you could also just use a brass bolt to lower the shear stress or aluminium rod, to reduce it more.
Without access to a lathe, you could achieve similar with an angle grinder and a steady hand too - it won't be as easy to control but it'll work well enough
Granted rail stuff is expensive/ this is the use case *for* the rail, but i do love those videos as well. All in all it’s just neat. Although perhaps if you get around to making your own, could you document/video it for us to enjoy?
I would first add a 1” board to the stop wall, dropping it all the way to the table. Let the blade cut the board creating a zero clearance cutting edge. Then build a cheap hopper that can hold several layers of logs above the blade. The weight of the higher stacked logs will apply downward pressure to the logs being sliced. Maybe 3 logs high. Just an idea, love the videos. Keep them coming!
As some others have said, you might find a cleaner cut if you rotate the log retaining walls by a few degrees, so that the logs are being cut at an angle to the blade. This way, the blade initially only has to focus on penetrating a tiny corner of the log, and from there it can slice the entire sheet cleanly off.
Here's an idea.... take a good look at how the iron in a hand plane is set up. The blade angle, the bevel angle on the blade, which side of the blade the bevel is on, the throat size, the chip breaker, etc. You can probably glean some good ideas from that to make this awesome wood slicer even awesomer!
I don't think that will work very well with those thick slices, it only works on a hand plane because the shavings are extremely thin and flexible, if you try to set the cutting depth of a hand plane to 1mm, it will begin to split the wood instead of cutting it, depending on the direction of the grain.
6:47 Honestly the safety factor alone would be a justification for me! I think this is one of those “Industrial Machine vs *Hand*, who will win” / “not only will this kill you, this will cause excruciating pain the entire time it takes for you to die” type situations! Granted the caution and respect for your machines you do already is good, but can’t be too careful when it comes to stuff like this! That’s my two cents at least!
*@Way Out West - Workshop Stuff* 9:55 Take a marker pen, and draw a line on ALL the bolts & nuts, draw the line from the nut onto the bolt-threads, so you can see if it has been turning because the line doesn't line-up then anymore. Maybe also add double bolts where it's possible?
My 2 cents on the link. I'd add something like the "expansion link" from a steam train reverser, but simplified. This will allow you to control the stroke length. One end is fixed pivot point with the link from the flywheel attaching about mid way. Then a floating pivot to the link to the tool. The distance from the fixed pivot determines the stroke length. You can make this as simple or elaborate as you'd like from set before running to adjustable while running; i'd go mid way and put the floating pivot on a screw that could be adjusted from the fixed end where it moved very little if i put my hand on it.
Great job 👌 To stiffen the "counter blade", you can replace the angle iron with a square tube. Way better in torsion. It will flex way less, not so much hassle, and should work better without having to increase the stroke !
If you make the front bar a bit thicker or slide it towards the wheel a bit so that the blade goes complete under it I think it would give you more complete slices.
I always curl up with some good vittles and watch your lives. I love it. I'm quite envious to be frank. A simple life in the country is my American dream. Maybe someday I can experience the happiness of self sufficiency. God's creation is so beautiful. I want to be immersed in it. I'm about over people.
I watch nearly all your videos and think your a genius engineer in disguise as a ordinary man! I pride myself in being able to diagnose and rectify issues however your on another level! Keep bringing these amazing projects to us!
Just great to see it all working. My only suggestion would have been something to let you put pressure on the wood without fingers getting involved. You did that with the plank of wood.
At the start of the video, I thought things were looking a little hopeless for splitting wood. But with perseverance and some cogitating you and Will triumphed. Well done...............again. The mechanical advantage imparted by your magnificent wheel is truly impressive.
Nice progress! Two thoughts: 1) If you raise the bed closest to the wheel the angle of the connecting rod changes and I think you would get more stroke. I imagine the rod movement as the hypothenuse vs. one side of a triangle. The most stroke would be if the bed points right into the center of the shaft. 2) could you hand crank the wheel now and use the momentum as a starter for the engine?
That's a good idea, you just got it the wrong way round, you need to lift the rear end of the table to increase the stroke length, but I think it is better to build a simple "lever transmission": just an I-beam hinged at the ground, the conrod connected to the center of the lever and a second conrod from the top of the lever to the blade, now the stroke will be twice as long... Of course the best option is to build a larger eccentric, but he will need to buy a huge steel plate to cut all 3 parts for the large eccentric, so that is probably too expensive...
8:12 I would suggest adding a vertical bar with a hinge at the bottom. The blade gets attached on one side and the rod get attached on the other. By adjusting the attachment point on the right, you can adjust the stroke length of the blade, depending on your needs.
Add a diagonal brace on the legs closest to the big wheel to eliminate the flexing of the frame. Replace the stop on the same end with a piece of square tube to eliminate the flexing at that point too. You might consider running some sort of structure back to the big wheel foundation instead of depending on bolting the slicer frame down on the concrete slab. That would eliminate any flexing of the table.
We will be watching at the end of a busy day. We think your a genius.GodBless love to you both and all the animals.Would love to be in Ireland 🇮🇪 right now.☘️☘️☘️☘️🪴🪴🪴🪴
Love it! If the issue is just that the blade isn't going far enough under the backstop, could you just bodge the backstop with another plate or two, to make it thicker? You'd be reducing the maximum length of the logs even more, but it would be a relatively simple modification until you can be bothered to increase the stroke.
Fantastic to see it being refined! I love watching the Eccentric in action, it’s such a fluid motion. On a side note, I’d love to see Eoin Reardon get together with you guys to hammer some carpentry on the farm, would be entertaining!
I love the Scrapheap Challenge bodged together nature of this contraption. It may not be perfect but it is at least functional and that I think is key! Love to see further improvements though.
Being a Tinkerer of some 5 decades, I tender my vast expertise: A "Shim" placed in front of Flexing Plate will prevent log from traveling beyond cutting position. I suggest a 3/4 thick piece of wood. ( about 1.5 centimeters , for those still counting on their fingers ) Adressing "Flexing Plate": If a welder is available tacking a straight rod from dead center of Top of plate, then weld to each side angle iron frame ( 45 degrees-ish ).
you could make a stroke length multplication lever, the con rod goes to a pivot point on a another con rod that itself pivots on the horizontal perpendicular axis, and the other end of which connects to another con rod which connects to the machine, the position of the pivot of the midle conrod determines the multiplication ratio.
In fact maybe you should think about a camping and working on the farm week, that would be wicked all your viewers get to meet you both and camp/meet each other and help out!!!
Hey Tim, the horizontal gap between the blade and the "slide" would need to be greater than the vertical gap. What you really have is a reciprocating wood plane and if you try to increase the depth of cut it just jams in the throat. The hold down is acting to stop the log lifting and there for increasing the depth of cut. I think there are similar analogies with a table saw, without holding the work against the fence or using a riving knife you increase the chance of kickback.
So if I understand correctly, this would presumably be solved by a second shim sheet attached to the carriage that doesn’t allow the material to drop fully for most of the gap, but stops a little ways in front of the blade? Makes sense.
@@farmerboy916 I had a second idea I posted of having a sprung hinged bed so it started as a "plane" but as soon as the blade engages the wood turns into a log splitter. It is of course much easier having an idea than making or heaven forbid operating it, cheers.
Nice job. To increase the stroke length you will move the connection rod further from the center of the wheel. But like a lever you will gain distance at the cost of force. Keep experimenting! How fun!
I think it makes sense to look at what improvements you can make, but what you have works, and works far better than the current alternatives available to you. So don't stress too much on fixing what isn't broke.
I know there is not a lot of money to go around, however might I suggest some nylon lock nuts for the bolts holding down the wheel bearings. That little extra added bit of nylon is to keep the nuts from shaking themselves loose due to high vibration applications. A cheaper option is to just use liquid Loctite on the current bolts you're using. Love the content and please keep it coming!
I really enjoy watching you build all of your equipment for the charcoal process. 1 thought, your wheel will continue to come out of alignment (causing the knocking noise) because the work being done by the blade is "pulling" that side of the wheel. Although the amount of movement is negligible, it builds up over time resulting in a miss alignment. You may need to add a brace to the side of the wheel with the eccentric to keep it from happening again. Keep up the good work, I look forward to seeing your whole process operational.
I love this bodgery!! Maybe a steel tube from the wheels bearing assembly to the chopper bed? This will stop the forces from bending the table legs and the wheels legs. And some bit of angle iron from the front chopper stop that keeps bending - triangulate it down to the choppers frame to stop the waddle. With this the chop would be cleaner so you get less blade debris, and make it less likely to rip itself apart.
Thank you so much! With all the crap on RUclips, yours is one of the few channels that makes RUclips worth watching! And I love the comments and suggestions. People are thinking and actually helping instead of harassing and being stupid. You are bringing out the best in people!!
Hi Tim, You may need to invest in some lockwashers of some sorts!! The hold down of the logs seems to work like a treat and should stop the tipping and jamming of the slices!!
Add an intermediate lever. The wheel moves the lever(attached to fulcrum on the ground) back and forth. Then attach your slicer to that lever. By moving the attachment point further from the fulcrum, you can increase the stroke length. Above the point your big wheel attaches, the stroke length will be more. Below that point it will be less. This is kinda similar to the reversing lever on a steam locomotive.
Perhaps have the hinge end of the pressure plate in a slide to raise it about an inch or so. Should help to keep it pressing evenly. Good stuff all round as always.
I haven't read all the comments to check however in my experience I found it helps greatly if you know the growth direction especially with knots, one gets more tare out grain affect going against the growth dirrection, hope this helps, I'm aware you've rectified most factors already. It takes less effort the correct way regardless
Advice to lengthen cut: attach push-pull rod to the mid point of a lever. One end of lever is fixed to a pivot point, and sliding guillotine to the other. Design the push-pull rod lever with many different attachment points, you can adjust the guillotine throw by moving the push-pull arm coser to the pivit point or closer to the guillotine. Obviously trading torque for throw.
For green wood - angle the blade, reinforce cutting back stop, decrease clearance between blade and cutting back stop, ensure blade travels beyond cutting back stop... should be good 🙂
If you add a plate of steel under the blade, at least the length of the input, and space it down just a hair wider than the pieces of wood are thick... I think it would prevent any wood from bending down and jamming. Basically, it would force the cut to remain horizontal. The next slice would push the previous slice out of the space. Maybe mount it with a lot of spring tension if you find slices get jammed. Also, yes, extend the stroke. :) Can't wait for the next video. Always a pleasure.
Nice! You know the old "Pert-Machine" they have here in Sweden, when the made roof plates, they collected very fine pine wood with straigt grains and full of resin in it. They looks like they have saw out them! They came out exactly flat and smooth!
Great job! A thought to the bending plate: Maybe if you cut out some steel triangles from leftover scrap and weld it between the blade and the steel bar it is connected to, maybe it won’t move as much.
Great work! I too like the idea of a slight angle to the blade, but this may not be an issue since the knots are getting sliced, apparently quite easily. Nice to see your progress, thanks!
What such a good start. Putting weight down on the logs seems to work very well! I do think that once the charcoal has a good amount of weight on it above in a hopper it will break down much faster. I hope you tryi it with a 2 foot or more hopper.
You have made a kitchen mandolin on a larger scale, not for slicing vegetables, but for wood. I agree with lengthening the stroke, but also consider making an angled blade, like the mandolin. Thanks for the video, and keep trying. you will get it. Jon (Sean)
Hi Sandra and Tim (and Will), brilliant! I admire your 'grass roots' approach. It would be possible to increase the length of stroke by driving a lever with the pushrod. A fulcrum placed at one third from the driven end would give an increased stroke of 2:1 for example. There woould be an inevitable cost in reduction of power at the blade plus friction from more moving parts. As we all know to plane with a blade diagonal to the direction of travel makes for a more efficient cut. Altering the angle of the log restraint relative to the blade would have a similar result. Keep going Mr.Inventor :).
I was thinking of a similar idea. If the placement of con rod that connects the non-driven side of the lever can be adjusted, the stroke can be fine tuned. Using a threaded rod or pipe for the lever comes to mind. Or perhaps square tubing with an array of holes.
What if you added a linkage between the wheel and the slicer, it could give you an adjustable stroke, have a fixed pivot at the bottom, the engine pivot in the middle ish and the slicer pivot above it. This would trade a bit of strength for more stroke but could be useful as by moving the pivot points you could change the stroke to suit your needs
Wonderful job Tim, I join the flock in encouraging a slightly off parallel blade. Even half an inch. You might have to add a bit of metal at the back of the blade to prevent the chunks from being caught on the reverse stroke but i think it is quite doable. If that piece extended below a bit as a wedge, it might even help split the wood. Also, watching the front stop flex, i think it could be easy to add a piece of tube or square stock to eliminate the troublesome flex. Stiffness is your friend here…
As a thought, where the wood is getting stuck in the gap in front of the blade, does the gap have to be in front on the cutting edge? If it was just under and behind the cutting edge it would still fall through and not allow it to get stuck vertically.....maybe. Fyi This has become my favourite channel on youtube its great to watch you puzzle your way through these inventions instead of another infomertial which alot of makers videos have become. Keep up the good work Tim!
I agree with a few of the other comments suggesting the blade be set at an angle, (you'll need a new blade), and the stroke increased, (a larger eccentric cam). I don't think the cam needs to be much bigger but large enough to allow a stroke long enough to facilitate the angled blade. The blade will last longer and cut more efficiently without all the vibration you have now. I agree 100% that this setup should only cut on the draw stroke as you have now. Cheers folks. 🇨🇦
The next step would perhaps be to improve the log-hold-down-clamper so that it is pulled down on it's own using weights, or a spring that you fasten to the machine, pulling the clamper down. That way you can load the machine up and do something else while it slices.
Nice video, for on how to extend the stroke why not make a lever, connect the conrod to the middle of it and put another rod from the top of the lever to your cutting machine. But you would need to make that lever quite strong to cope with the forces. Keep the work on going and dont stop making videos, they are great fun and educational. Greetings from germany
Great video, love you creativity. How about using nyloc nuts or some sort of shake proof split washers on those nuts, without them it doesn't matter how tight you do them, they can always potentially work loose.😉😁💪
1) Thicken the cutter backstop with another plate to ensure a complete cut. 2) Install some rails underneath the cutter so you can roll a rail car underneath with a bin to collect your cuttings directly 3) Mark the nuts and bolts holding that wheel in place so you can easily see if the nuts start to work themselves loose again. A simple line of nail polish or paint from the nut over to the end of the bolt will make it very obvious if any of the nuts have started to work themselves loose.
This thing is awesome, I can think of a few changes that may help. Instead of lengthening your throw you should shorten the opening of your hopper. Shortening the opening would allow the blade to slide fully under. The backstop could be reinforced and act like a piranha metalworker if the blade travels fully underneath. Another idea would be to add fins off your blade to cut your shingles into strips, could make good kindling! Love the build and video as always
If those big wheel bolts come lose again, try loctite or lock bolts? And flexing backplate, just weld some more steel back bracing or thicker plate/double plate to it. Great content, have a great day sir.
really pleased to see your shingle slicer 6000 is up to snuff now. Would like to closely look at those slices to see if they are wedge shaped at all, then again, for their use, you don't need precision so looks like it's doing exactly what you need for a shingle.
Like a paper slicer or a guillotine having the blade at an angle reduces the load of the blade but gives it a better slicer action
6:43 the behaviour of timber is such that to slice it in a controlled manner you need to have the blade cut on an angle. The way you have it set up is only able to chop the timber. You should realign your blade accordingly to get best results. Also try adding a heavy steel plate hinged onto the side rail to prevent the timber from jumping when feeding into the blade.
Have you considered adding a plate below the blade to stop your sliced piece of wood turning vertical and trying to cut across the grain
Or Shark-tooth shaped, which is just two angles with a sharp tip where they join.
Yes, but a single angle would put transversal constraints on the slider. You'd need a two-angled cutting edge to prevent the sled from tilting and jamming. And again, it wouldn't prevent one side of the blade being more loaded than the other (since the logs aren't centered). Moreover, any angle on the blade would reduce the cutting length: the amplitude of the mechanism is fixed, directly imparted by the eccentric, on the wheel.
Your shear pin can be made to shear at whatever stress you want by undercutting the bolt with two grooves from a parting tool on a lathe, you could also just use a brass bolt to lower the shear stress or aluminium rod, to reduce it more.
Without access to a lathe, you could achieve similar with an angle grinder and a steady hand too - it won't be as easy to control but it'll work well enough
or high tensile wire
Great video as usual, but I am really looking forward for more rail and rail related stuff. Thinking about making my own. :)
Soon, I hope!
Same here!
Granted rail stuff is expensive/ this is the use case *for* the rail, but i do love those videos as well. All in all it’s just neat.
Although perhaps if you get around to making your own, could you document/video it for us to enjoy?
I would first add a 1” board to the stop wall, dropping it all the way to the table. Let the blade cut the board creating a zero clearance cutting edge.
Then build a cheap hopper that can hold several layers of logs above the blade. The weight of the higher stacked logs will apply downward pressure to the logs being sliced. Maybe 3 logs high.
Just an idea, love the videos. Keep them coming!
Glad to see you've now installed a safety chair Tim. I'll sleep a bit easier tonight!
I could legitimately watch these videos all day😅
What a happy chore to work with such an ancient and quaint machine, the smell of cut wood must be nice.
For the stroke issue, why not introduce an intermediate rocker? Connecting rod to the blade is mounted further along the rocking arm.
As some others have said, you might find a cleaner cut if you rotate the log retaining walls by a few degrees, so that the logs are being cut at an angle to the blade. This way, the blade initially only has to focus on penetrating a tiny corner of the log, and from there it can slice the entire sheet cleanly off.
Here's an idea.... take a good look at how the iron in a hand plane is set up. The blade angle, the bevel angle on the blade, which side of the blade the bevel is on, the throat size, the chip breaker, etc. You can probably glean some good ideas from that to make this awesome wood slicer even awesomer!
I don't think that will work very well with those thick slices, it only works on a hand plane because the shavings are extremely thin and flexible, if you try to set the cutting depth of a hand plane to 1mm, it will begin to split the wood instead of cutting it, depending on the direction of the grain.
add an unequal rocker or a pivoting vertical beam to adjust the stroke depending on preference for reversing the motion or not.
6:47 Honestly the safety factor alone would be a justification for me! I think this is one of those “Industrial Machine vs *Hand*, who will win” / “not only will this kill you, this will cause excruciating pain the entire time it takes for you to die” type situations!
Granted the caution and respect for your machines you do already is good, but can’t be too careful when it comes to stuff like this! That’s my two cents at least!
*@Way Out West - Workshop Stuff*
9:55 Take a marker pen, and draw a line on ALL the bolts & nuts, draw the line from the nut onto the bolt-threads, so you can see if it has been turning because the line doesn't line-up then anymore.
Maybe also add double bolts where it's possible?
My 2 cents on the link. I'd add something like the "expansion link" from a steam train reverser, but simplified. This will allow you to control the stroke length. One end is fixed pivot point with the link from the flywheel attaching about mid way. Then a floating pivot to the link to the tool. The distance from the fixed pivot determines the stroke length. You can make this as simple or elaborate as you'd like from set before running to adjustable while running; i'd go mid way and put the floating pivot on a screw that could be adjusted from the fixed end where it moved very little if i put my hand on it.
Great job 👌
To stiffen the "counter blade", you can replace the angle iron with a square tube.
Way better in torsion. It will flex way less, not so much hassle, and should work better without having to increase the stroke !
Channel iron would be even better 👍
@@johndowe7003 To resist torsional forces,
closed contour sections (square tube, pipe etc) are far better than any open section (U, I, H, T, L etc) !
@@AntoineGst yes i agree, it would just make it heavier than needed .
If you make the front bar a bit thicker or slide it towards the wheel a bit so that the blade goes complete under it I think it would give you more complete slices.
Bravo Tim. Happy to see no important bits got sliced in with the tree bits.
I always curl up with some good vittles and watch your lives. I love it. I'm quite envious to be frank. A simple life in the country is my American dream. Maybe someday I can experience the happiness of self sufficiency. God's creation is so beautiful. I want to be immersed in it. I'm about over people.
Mmmm I hear ya.
Liked the reverse play back, when showing the container of charcoal!
I watch nearly all your videos and think your a genius engineer in disguise as a ordinary man! I pride myself in being able to diagnose and rectify issues however your on another level! Keep bringing these amazing projects to us!
Just great to see it all working. My only suggestion would have been something to let you put pressure on the wood without fingers getting involved. You did that with the plank of wood.
well done...shingles are 'go'
At the start of the video, I thought things were looking a little hopeless for splitting wood. But with perseverance and some cogitating you and Will triumphed. Well done...............again. The mechanical advantage imparted by your magnificent wheel is truly impressive.
Good morning guys and gals.
The sound of this machine makes me want to do stuff. :)
Nice progress!
Two thoughts:
1) If you raise the bed closest to the wheel the angle of the connecting rod changes and I think you would get more stroke. I imagine the rod movement as the hypothenuse vs. one side of a triangle. The most stroke would be if the bed points right into the center of the shaft.
2) could you hand crank the wheel now and use the momentum as a starter for the engine?
That's a good idea, you just got it the wrong way round, you need to lift the rear end of the table to increase the stroke length, but I think it is better to build a simple "lever transmission": just an I-beam hinged at the ground, the conrod connected to the center of the lever and a second conrod from the top of the lever to the blade, now the stroke will be twice as long...
Of course the best option is to build a larger eccentric, but he will need to buy a huge steel plate to cut all 3 parts for the large eccentric, so that is probably too expensive...
@@Henning_S. Oh.. you are right. Back end it is of course.
@@Henning_S. a 'lever transmission' is what i thought of too.
@@Henning_S. I just left a comment and then came down and read this one. Same idea lol.
8:12 I would suggest adding a vertical bar with a hinge at the bottom. The blade gets attached on one side and the rod get attached on the other. By adjusting the attachment point on the right, you can adjust the stroke length of the blade, depending on your needs.
Add a diagonal brace on the legs closest to the big wheel to eliminate the flexing of the frame. Replace the stop on the same end with a piece of square tube to eliminate the flexing at that point too. You might consider running some sort of structure back to the big wheel foundation instead of depending on bolting the slicer frame down on the concrete slab. That would eliminate any flexing of the table.
We will be watching at the end of a busy day. We think your a genius.GodBless love to you both and all the animals.Would love to be in Ireland 🇮🇪 right now.☘️☘️☘️☘️🪴🪴🪴🪴
Its so cool watching your thought process. I have no questions, comments or complaints. 😊 Thanks for sharing.
Love it! If the issue is just that the blade isn't going far enough under the backstop, could you just bodge the backstop with another plate or two, to make it thicker? You'd be reducing the maximum length of the logs even more, but it would be a relatively simple modification until you can be bothered to increase the stroke.
Fantastic to see it being refined! I love watching the Eccentric in action, it’s such a fluid motion.
On a side note, I’d love to see Eoin Reardon get together with you guys to hammer some carpentry on the farm, would be entertaining!
I love the Scrapheap Challenge bodged together nature of this contraption. It may not be perfect but it is at least functional and that I think is key! Love to see further improvements though.
Well done. Working brilliantly 👍. Not that any of us out here in RUclipsLand had any doubt that it would
The glorious sound of that belt engaging never gets old!
Whilst watching this I thought I might treat myself and watch your recent video where you did that wonderful job on your louvred barn.
Cracking job as always! Can't wait to see how charcoal production goes!
Super satisfying to see it slicing nicely!
Great to see it working efficiently. Keep checking those bolts, don't want that wheel coming loose.
Every bit of upgrades will help in the long run bro, knowing when to stop the upgrades could be the tricky bit. Safe travels.
Keep up the great work! Really enjoy watching what you are doing from across the pond.
Being a Tinkerer of some 5 decades, I tender my vast expertise:
A "Shim" placed in front of Flexing Plate will prevent log from traveling beyond cutting position. I suggest a 3/4 thick piece of wood. ( about 1.5 centimeters , for those still counting on their fingers )
Adressing "Flexing Plate": If a welder is available tacking a straight rod from dead center of Top of plate, then weld to each side angle iron frame ( 45 degrees-ish ).
Such a machine with no means of de coupling. Brave!
It works! It really works!!!
That's fantastic!!!!!!
Put lock nuts on the bearing blocks. Greetings from Tasmania Australia.🛠👍🇦🇺
Always nice to see these films :D Like balm on the soul.
(yes writing and watching at the same time.)
you have a nice storytelling voice.
and a nice machine...
you could make a stroke length multplication lever, the con rod goes to a pivot point on a another con rod that itself pivots on the horizontal perpendicular axis, and the other end of which connects to another con rod which connects to the machine, the position of the pivot of the midle conrod determines the multiplication ratio.
Right. And it can be easily adjustable to get the right stroke length for the job.
In fact maybe you should think about a camping and working on the farm week, that would be wicked all your viewers get to meet you both and camp/meet each other and help out!!!
Hey Tim, the horizontal gap between the blade and the "slide" would need to be greater than the vertical gap. What you really have is a reciprocating wood plane and if you try to increase the depth of cut it just jams in the throat. The hold down is acting to stop the log lifting and there for increasing the depth of cut. I think there are similar analogies with a table saw, without holding the work against the fence or using a riving knife you increase the chance of kickback.
So if I understand correctly, this would presumably be solved by a second shim sheet attached to the carriage that doesn’t allow the material to drop fully for most of the gap, but stops a little ways in front of the blade? Makes sense.
@@farmerboy916 I had a second idea I posted of having a sprung hinged bed so it started as a "plane" but as soon as the blade engages the wood turns into a log splitter. It is of course much easier having an idea than making or heaven forbid operating it, cheers.
Nice job. To increase the stroke length you will move the connection rod further from the center of the wheel. But like a lever you will gain distance at the cost of force. Keep experimenting! How fun!
Looks like a good way to get into making shingles.
the finest of kindling, lovely job indeed.
I think it makes sense to look at what improvements you can make, but what you have works, and works far better than the current alternatives available to you.
So don't stress too much on fixing what isn't broke.
Your videos allways make me cheer up, Thanks and continue making great content :)
Brilliant work Tim!
These videos are great ! Keep up the great work
You are doing it. Congratulations.
I know there is not a lot of money to go around, however might I suggest some nylon lock nuts for the bolts holding down the wheel bearings. That little extra added bit of nylon is to keep the nuts from shaking themselves loose due to high vibration applications. A cheaper option is to just use liquid Loctite on the current bolts you're using. Love the content and please keep it coming!
Absolutely love that contraption 😊
It's great watching this progress! I would probably weld a couple of angle irons on in a V-shape to support the stop. That should make it rock solid.
I really enjoy watching you build all of your equipment for the charcoal process. 1 thought, your wheel will continue to come out of alignment (causing the knocking noise) because the work being done by the blade is "pulling" that side of the wheel. Although the amount of movement is negligible, it builds up over time resulting in a miss alignment. You may need to add a brace to the side of the wheel with the eccentric to keep it from happening again. Keep up the good work, I look forward to seeing your whole process operational.
Brilliant work you two! Keep the videos coming Tim 🎉
I love this bodgery!! Maybe a steel tube from the wheels bearing assembly to the chopper bed? This will stop the forces from bending the table legs and the wheels legs. And some bit of angle iron from the front chopper stop that keeps bending - triangulate it down to the choppers frame to stop the waddle. With this the chop would be cleaner so you get less blade debris, and make it less likely to rip itself apart.
Thank you so much! With all the crap on RUclips, yours is one of the few channels that makes RUclips worth watching! And I love the comments and suggestions. People are thinking and actually helping instead of harassing and being stupid. You are bringing out the best in people!!
The engine may only have 6 hp, but it has a giantic amount of torque. ;-)
Hi Tim, You may need to invest in some lockwashers of some sorts!!
The hold down of the logs seems to work like a treat and should stop the tipping and jamming of the slices!!
Add an intermediate lever. The wheel moves the lever(attached to fulcrum on the ground) back and forth. Then attach your slicer to that lever. By moving the attachment point further from the fulcrum, you can increase the stroke length. Above the point your big wheel attaches, the stroke length will be more. Below that point it will be less. This is kinda similar to the reversing lever on a steam locomotive.
Perhaps have the hinge end of the pressure plate in a slide to raise it about an inch or so. Should help to keep it pressing evenly. Good stuff all round as always.
I haven't read all the comments to check however in my experience I found it helps greatly if you know the growth direction especially with knots, one gets more tare out grain affect going against the growth dirrection, hope this helps, I'm aware you've rectified most factors already. It takes less effort the correct way regardless
Advice to lengthen cut: attach push-pull rod to the mid point of a lever. One end of lever is fixed to a pivot point, and sliding guillotine to the other. Design the push-pull rod lever with many different attachment points, you can adjust the guillotine throw by moving the push-pull arm coser to the pivit point or closer to the guillotine.
Obviously trading torque for throw.
This video title is, instead of being clickbait as per youtube standard, accurate.
It is technically correct.
Best kind of correct.
Goofy idea you probably already had, but *You could make the worlds smallest sheet of plywood!*
It's inspirational to see your neverending enthusiasm. You'll get there, one step at a time. Greetings from Sweden 🇸🇪.
For green wood - angle the blade, reinforce cutting back stop, decrease clearance between blade and cutting back stop, ensure blade travels beyond cutting back stop... should be good 🙂
Great for making char. John
If you add a plate of steel under the blade, at least the length of the input, and space it down just a hair wider than the pieces of wood are thick... I think it would prevent any wood from bending down and jamming. Basically, it would force the cut to remain horizontal. The next slice would push the previous slice out of the space. Maybe mount it with a lot of spring tension if you find slices get jammed. Also, yes, extend the stroke. :) Can't wait for the next video. Always a pleasure.
i commented this and then read comments
Nice! You know the old "Pert-Machine" they have here in Sweden, when the made roof plates, they collected very fine pine wood with straigt grains and full of resin in it. They looks like they have saw out them! They came out exactly flat and smooth!
Yes, but we don't grow that sort of timber here : - (
Great job! A thought to the bending plate: Maybe if you cut out some steel triangles from leftover scrap and weld it between the blade and the steel bar it is connected to, maybe it won’t move as much.
Great work! I too like the idea of a slight angle to the blade, but this may not be an issue since the knots are getting sliced, apparently quite easily. Nice to see your progress, thanks!
What such a good start. Putting weight down on the logs seems to work very well!
I do think that once the charcoal has a good amount of weight on it above in a hopper it will break down much faster. I hope you tryi it with a 2 foot or more hopper.
You have made a kitchen mandolin on a larger scale, not for slicing vegetables, but for wood. I agree with lengthening the stroke, but also consider making an angled blade, like the mandolin. Thanks for the video, and keep trying. you will get it. Jon (Sean)
Hi Sandra and Tim (and Will), brilliant! I admire your 'grass roots' approach. It would be possible to increase the length of stroke by driving a lever with the pushrod. A fulcrum placed at one third from the driven end would give an increased stroke of 2:1 for example. There woould be an inevitable cost in reduction of power at the blade plus friction from more moving parts. As we all know to plane with a blade diagonal to the direction of travel makes for a more efficient cut. Altering the angle of the log restraint relative to the blade would have a similar result. Keep going Mr.Inventor :).
I was thinking of a similar idea. If the placement of con rod that connects the non-driven side of the lever can be adjusted, the stroke can be fine tuned. Using a threaded rod or pipe for the lever comes to mind. Or perhaps square tubing with an array of holes.
What if you added a linkage between the wheel and the slicer, it could give you an adjustable stroke, have a fixed pivot at the bottom, the engine pivot in the middle ish and the slicer pivot above it. This would trade a bit of strength for more stroke but could be useful as by moving the pivot points you could change the stroke to suit your needs
Wonderful job Tim,
I join the flock in encouraging a slightly off parallel blade. Even half an inch. You might have to add a bit of metal at the back of the blade to prevent the chunks from being caught on the reverse stroke but i think it is quite doable. If that piece extended below a bit as a wedge, it might even help split the wood.
Also, watching the front stop flex, i think it could be easy to add a piece of tube or square stock to eliminate the troublesome flex. Stiffness is your friend here…
As a thought, where the wood is getting stuck in the gap in front of the blade, does the gap have to be in front on the cutting edge? If it was just under and behind the cutting edge it would still fall through and not allow it to get stuck vertically.....maybe. Fyi This has become my favourite channel on youtube its great to watch you puzzle your way through these inventions instead of another infomertial which alot of makers videos have become. Keep up the good work Tim!
I agree with a few of the other comments suggesting the blade be set at an angle, (you'll need a new blade), and the stroke increased, (a larger eccentric cam). I don't think the cam needs to be much bigger but large enough to allow a stroke long enough to facilitate the angled blade.
The blade will last longer and cut more efficiently without all the vibration you have now.
I agree 100% that this setup should only cut on the draw stroke as you have now.
Cheers folks. 🇨🇦
I always find your videos interestin
The next step would perhaps be to improve the log-hold-down-clamper so that it is pulled down on it's own using weights, or a spring that you fasten to the machine, pulling the clamper down. That way you can load the machine up and do something else while it slices.
Nice video, for on how to extend the stroke why not make a lever, connect the conrod to the middle of it and put another rod from the top of the lever to your cutting machine. But you would need to make that lever quite strong to cope with the forces. Keep the work on going and dont stop making videos, they are great fun and educational. Greetings from germany
Great idea. You beat me to the suggestion. I like this RUclips channel. Have a great day!
Great video, love you creativity. How about using nyloc nuts or some sort of shake proof split washers on those nuts, without them it doesn't matter how tight you do them, they can always potentially work loose.😉😁💪
Wow the hold down divce was what I said about 8 videos ago it will help a lot
locknuts / lockwashers possibly double nut the important bolts just to keep em from getting loose .. cheers for good content :)
Nice contraption. Really nice. Now TO THE KILN. :D
Nice job!
Charcoals smouldering with the flame of ambition
1) Thicken the cutter backstop with another plate to ensure a complete cut.
2) Install some rails underneath the cutter so you can roll a rail car underneath with a bin to collect your cuttings directly
3) Mark the nuts and bolts holding that wheel in place so you can easily see if the nuts start to work themselves loose again. A simple line of nail polish or paint from the nut over to the end of the bolt will make it very obvious if any of the nuts have started to work themselves loose.
🚧🚧Outstanding Truly OUTSTANDING Sir 😇😇👍👍👌👌💪💪Cheers 🚧🚧
This thing is awesome, I can think of a few changes that may help. Instead of lengthening your throw you should shorten the opening of your hopper. Shortening the opening would allow the blade to slide fully under. The backstop could be reinforced and act like a piranha metalworker if the blade travels fully underneath. Another idea would be to add fins off your blade to cut your shingles into strips, could make good kindling! Love the build and video as always
If those big wheel bolts come lose again, try loctite or lock bolts? And flexing backplate, just weld some more steel back bracing or thicker plate/double plate to it. Great content, have a great day sir.
really pleased to see your shingle slicer 6000 is up to snuff now. Would like to closely look at those slices to see if they are wedge shaped at all, then again, for their use, you don't need precision so looks like it's doing exactly what you need for a shingle.