Proper order: Remove the upper and lower springs first. (Use a good, grippy pair of needle nose pliers. If your pliers slip then use a wire cutter instead for better grip cuz those springs are strong. Don't worry: you won't cut the spring. Unless you're He-Man.) Then, take off the retainer clips. (Needle nose pliers again. It's real easy, just grab the top sides of the clip, squeeze it down, then slide it off.) Then the shoes and automatic adjuster come out easily. Twist the adjuster either all the way down (shorter) or most of the way. (The new shoes are going to have nice thick pads on them and they'll need the extra room.) Using your trusty needle nose pliers yet again slide up the spring on the hand break cable to easily remove it from the back shoe. (It's always attached to the back shoe no matter which side of the car you're on.) Clean out rust, dirt, and debris with a wire brush and brake parts cleaner. Don't forget to clean your drum, too. If you're reusing the old drum that thing's dirty. If you've got a new drum then there will be a thin coating of light weight machine oil on it to protect the metal; you need to clean that oil off with brake cleaner. Grease up any contact points on the back plate where the shoes or hardware might rub. This is a case of a-lil-dab'll-do-ya. Now, put the new shoes and hardware back together in the reverse order that you took everything off. So, think, the springs will go on _last_ . With the automatic adjuster in place you'll see a wheel with gear teeth on it. Use a pick or flat head screwdriver to turn that wheel until the adjuster is pushing on both shoes. Slide your drum on and give it a spin. If it spins freely with no rubbing sound and no resistance then you need to expand the adjuster more until the shoes _juuust_ touch the inside of the drum. If the adjuster is opened too much then either the drum won't go on or the shoes will be rubbing and dragging the drum so much that you can't spin it. Once it's just right you can get your wheel back on. Last step, pump your brake pedal a few times while in park. Find somewhere where you have enough room to drive in reverse a good bit (like 50ft or so) and drive in reverse as fast as you have room for and push your brake pedal good and hard. Doing this will set that automatic adjuster to the right position. That's why it's called an "automatic" adjuster ;)
The biggest help for brakes like these are a pair of needle nose "vise grips" or locking pliers. Takes a lot of pain out of this process. Saves a lot of sore knuckles.
Glad I came across this vid. Tryna figure out why some places charge u like an arm and leg for something like this. I need new drums and brakes for my rear of me Nissan but some places are asking like 300 . I got 1 quote with just 250. Saving up money for now.
Well I don't fix cars for a living or for a hobby. I did it one time to save money. No one gave me instructions or guidance I just did it to the best of my knowledge. If you are going to be a dick about it then F off!
Well I explained in the description that this was my first time ever changing brakes on any vehicle ever except dirtbikes. Besides that car has been traded in months ago.
I had no issues until about 100k miles.. my trans gave out it was like 3k to fix.. and now she’s back going strong I’m at 130k now and I mean it is a slow car and I feel like the biggest worry on the car is the transmission.. but if you get passed that it’s not bad.and it has great mpg I get like 30 in city.
What I did is attach the top spring to 1st after the E-brake cable and as put into place. Yes those retainer clips are a HUGE pain in the butt. GM’s were much much easier. That said & after I skinned my knuckle pretty badly what I did was use a vise grip “CLAMP” at about the 11 & 1 o’clock positions to basically give myself an extra hand. Doing so once you get the shoes in position frees up both hands to push the retainer stud in from behind while using your pliers to put the clip on from the front. You don’t need A LOT of pressure with the clamp just enough to hold the shoes in place while putting on the clip. I found that putting it on any lower with the spring attach causes the bottom of the shoe to bow out arms at the bottom. I also did one at a time. So get one shoe on, then attach the spring only to both using the clamp (a big C-clamp should work too) attach the clip one side at a time then put the adjuster on only after you have it spun in ALL THE WAY. Once that is done make sure your in proper position at the top on the brake cylinder pistons & attach your bottom spring & your done. Put the drum on & bolt on your tire. Remember before you go driving around to “BACK UP “REVERSE” slowly a couple times to allow the adjusters to seat themselves to properly self adjust the brakes & your done. I hope that helps.
No isn't if you use de correct tools,harbor freight sell a special tool for 14.99 and is really easy and simple with this,you save a lot of time and headache,if all parts fit as they should it will take around 40 minutes per side.!
Proper order:
Remove the upper and lower springs first. (Use a good, grippy pair of needle nose pliers. If your pliers slip then use a wire cutter instead for better grip cuz those springs are strong. Don't worry: you won't cut the spring. Unless you're He-Man.)
Then, take off the retainer clips. (Needle nose pliers again. It's real easy, just grab the top sides of the clip, squeeze it down, then slide it off.)
Then the shoes and automatic adjuster come out easily.
Twist the adjuster either all the way down (shorter) or most of the way. (The new shoes are going to have nice thick pads on them and they'll need the extra room.)
Using your trusty needle nose pliers yet again slide up the spring on the hand break cable to easily remove it from the back shoe. (It's always attached to the back shoe no matter which side of the car you're on.)
Clean out rust, dirt, and debris with a wire brush and brake parts cleaner. Don't forget to clean your drum, too. If you're reusing the old drum that thing's dirty. If you've got a new drum then there will be a thin coating of light weight machine oil on it to protect the metal; you need to clean that oil off with brake cleaner.
Grease up any contact points on the back plate where the shoes or hardware might rub. This is a case of a-lil-dab'll-do-ya.
Now, put the new shoes and hardware back together in the reverse order that you took everything off. So, think, the springs will go on _last_ . With the automatic adjuster in place you'll see a wheel with gear teeth on it. Use a pick or flat head screwdriver to turn that wheel until the adjuster is pushing on both shoes.
Slide your drum on and give it a spin. If it spins freely with no rubbing sound and no resistance then you need to expand the adjuster more until the shoes _juuust_ touch the inside of the drum. If the adjuster is opened too much then either the drum won't go on or the shoes will be rubbing and dragging the drum so much that you can't spin it.
Once it's just right you can get your wheel back on.
Last step, pump your brake pedal a few times while in park. Find somewhere where you have enough room to drive in reverse a good bit (like 50ft or so) and drive in reverse as fast as you have room for and push your brake pedal good and hard. Doing this will set that automatic adjuster to the right position. That's why it's called an "automatic" adjuster ;)
Great back yard/ driveway brake job explanation. I’m ready to fight with my brakes today. Ty.
have the same car model and wanted to change my breaks and drum thank you so much for this information it was extremely helpful
The biggest help for brakes like these are a pair of needle nose "vise grips" or locking pliers. Takes a lot of pain out of this process. Saves a lot of sore knuckles.
Glad I came across this vid. Tryna figure out why some places charge u like an arm and leg for something like this. I need new drums and brakes for my rear of me Nissan but some places are asking like 300 . I got 1 quote with just 250. Saving up money for now.
Thanks for posting this video
Do you want cancer? Never in 41 years fixing cars did I see someone blow on brake dust. God be with you.
Well I don't fix cars for a living or for a hobby. I did it one time to save money. No one gave me instructions or guidance I just did it to the best of my knowledge. If you are going to be a dick about it then F off!
Question is the Sentra SV model as I have seen pads in rear available other than shoe's too. Cheater bar works great when loosening nuts
It's always cheaper to do anything yourself, if you do it correctly
Is it necessary to replace the drum? Of can you get away with just replacing the shoes
doesn't no matter if the DRUM looks ok , always have to change the DRUMS every 70,000 miles
Hi, great video, where you buy the brakes? Thanks
Auto zone
No grease on the backplate bosses where the sides of the shoes rest?
Well I explained in the description that this was my first time ever changing brakes on any vehicle ever except dirtbikes. Besides that car has been traded in months ago.
@@ryanlsorrell1983 not criticizing you, just something to consider.
Did you have to have the e brake on?
No
Have you had any problems with this car ?
No real problems yet. Just basic maintenance. It has just about 105k miles on it with no mechanical issues at all.
@@ryanlsorrell1983 my transmission went out at about 55k . Thankfully it was still under warranty and they replaced. I'm at 60k now.
Remember cvt fluid change ever 25k miles..
I had no issues until about 100k miles.. my trans gave out it was like 3k to fix.. and now she’s back going strong I’m at 130k now and I mean it is a slow car and I feel like the biggest worry on the car is the transmission.. but if you get passed that it’s not bad.and it has great mpg I get like 30 in city.
Looks like it's a pain in the ass
What I did is attach the top spring to 1st after the E-brake cable and as put into place. Yes those retainer clips are a HUGE pain in the butt. GM’s were much much easier. That said & after I skinned my knuckle pretty badly what I did was use a vise grip “CLAMP” at about the 11 & 1 o’clock positions to basically give myself an extra hand. Doing so once you get the shoes in position frees up both hands to push the retainer stud in from behind while using your pliers to put the clip on from the front.
You don’t need A LOT of pressure with the clamp just enough to hold the shoes in place while putting on the clip. I found that putting it on any lower with the spring attach causes the bottom of the shoe to bow out arms at the bottom. I also did one at a time.
So get one shoe on, then attach the spring only to both using the clamp (a big C-clamp should work too) attach the clip one side at a time then put the adjuster on only after you have it spun in ALL THE WAY. Once that is done make sure your in proper position at the top on the brake cylinder pistons & attach your bottom spring & your done.
Put the drum on & bolt on your tire.
Remember before you go driving around to “BACK UP “REVERSE” slowly a couple times to allow the adjusters to seat themselves to properly self adjust the brakes & your done. I hope that helps.
No isn't if you use de correct tools,harbor freight sell a special tool for 14.99 and is really easy and simple with this,you save a lot of time and headache,if all parts fit as they should it will take around 40 minutes per side.!
17:00
F this! i'm not working on shit ass drum brakes. i'll pay a shop to do these.
Honeslty this didn’t look bad lmao. But how much was it for the shop to do it?
Grande nabo