Beautiful! Thank you so much for this review. I'm looking into getting back into 3d printing since falling off after have 2 kiddos a year or so after I pre-ordered the Prusa MK2. I'm thinking this will be the printer to get me back into the swing of things till I can properly service my old MK2. Thank you so much for this review!
I am a 80 year old 3d printing nurd. ad enjoy 3D printing very much. I Bought an Monoprice Ultimate 2 printer as my second printer. in general was OK but hade a fue problems. Support was non existent, I tried to use auto bed leveling when I used the setting on screen it gives 2 options that look like pre set demintions. did not know which one to use. trying to contact support was impossible.I just had a simple question to ask. manual was no help. and just trying to determine which extra nozzle to buy was a problem. I have a Creality Ender 3 and am very happy with it.
Love your videos; always very intuitive coverage :)
4 года назад+3
Great video. After having this device for quite a while. Would you still recommend this? and furthermore... would you recommend it also for beginner to 3d printing?. Thanks
I think this is a solid PLA and TPU printer. I recently did a video on print PETG on it and it is fine for PETG with that do not require print temperatures over 235C. I really like that it is quite fast compared to my Creality printers. The primary negative I have had with it is that it is a bit harder to control stringing on this printer. Finally a big plus is with the doors closed it is very quiet and due to the doors it is much more child and pet safe.
Hello and thank you for this video. I would now like to get my first 3D printer and think it will be the Monoprice Ultimate 2. But one question please, what exactly did you do with the glass plate? what do you mean by minor update? Best regards and stay healthy.
I put buildtak on top of the glass. I find it easier to print on buildtak than glass. Please check out the blog post at DrVax.com about how to level the bed on the Ultimate 2.
@@MakeWithTech may I ask which BuildTak you used for the Ultimate 2? I find one from Monoprice made of metal and glass. Or can I take other ones and cut them to fit? Please forgive my questions, but I have no idea at all. Or rather, not yet. Greetings and stay healthy.
@@MakeWithTech Hello, I read your blog post about bed leveling with the Monoprice ultimate 2. I have a question about it, you write that you are using an index card. what exactly do you mean by index card? can I take my identification card? or my driver's license? best Regards ... Torsten
Completely different machines from different OEMs. This machine is vastly superior. P.S. I have started a new discussion forum at forum.drvax.com where we can all have more elaborate discussions and share pictures on our prints and printers. Check it out. Irv
Hi, I really found your review helpful, so I went ahead and bought the Monoprice Maker Ultimate 2. Wishing to experiment with some more exotic materials, I have been trying to find some replacement hot end parts since I only have the original brass nozzle. I have less than a year of experience with 3d printing, so I'm still a bit unclear on what I'm looking for. After a few days of searching, all I've been able to find is the replacement extruder from Monoprice (out of stock). You mentioned getting a ruby nozzle and included a link which seems to apply to the Prusa printer. Do you know what type/size of nozzle I need to buy and/or where to look for something compatible for the ultimate 2? I'd love to get a ruby piece, but hardened steel or other options would be great too.
My only experience with a Ruby nozzle is on my Prusa i3 Mk3. I use it to print hardened anad abbrasive materials. I have not tried changing the Ultimate 2 nozzle, but my guess -- this is a guess, is that any nozzles that will fit in a Creality Ender will also fit in this printer. Standard brass nozzles are quite inexpensive so it is probably worth a try. Please post your results.
Does anyone have any resources for printing tethered or with octoprint with this printer? Haven’t been able to find any info online yet about this use case.
Hi I enjoy your videos very much, I have this printer arriving on Monday 20 April 2020.it is my first 3d printer can you let me know the best and easiest software to download and install. Regards John
Great video. Please help. I have this printer too. Have you been able to successfully print TPU with it? If yes, then with what brand TPU and with what settings? Please advise. Thanks!!!
Not yet! If I have a chance I will try. In general I find slowing down your prints and printing a bit hot soe it is easier for the extruder to push the filament through the hot end helps with TPU.
When the doors are closed the Ultimate2 is quieter however w we hen printing PLA you need to leave the top door open or the printer gets to hot and you will have overhang issues.
Great video. Please help. Will Monoprice Maker Ultimate 2 3D Printer, Maximum Nozzle Temperature 250°C, work with carbon fiber filament? Have you tried it? If yes, then what carbon fiber filament did you use? Thanks.
Absolutely. I would recommend you take a look at my 3d Printers Demystified Series to learn how to get started: ruclips.net/p/PLxa9m2nC6N93YM2e7gfXR40i2cANgSR4e
Well I did indeed take the plunge and it arrived today. What I've noticed is the bed leveling only travels to 3 corner of the bed. Omits the right rear corner. Is this an issue? I'm running the latest firmware 2.2.8
@@MakeWithTech thank you very much for the reply! I study architecture (MArch) and during my BA a friend bought a mid-price unenclosed 3D printer.. which was a nightmare to keep level (I had to relevel it for Every Print which involved me, four thumbscrews, a piece of paper, and about fifteen minutes), the print quality degraded fast (after a month it just became very stringy and didn't seem to be getting hot enough), and the print nozzle would get clogged (I usually managed to clear it with patience and extra heat, but it just seemed to lose ability to get as hot as it should very quickly - by the end we had it configured to about 15-20*C more than supposedly required, which helped, but that was basically max temp and seems... Not right). And, I've been considering buying one myself but was afraid I might end up with the same nightmares! Your review covers a lot of things and I appreciate the variety of test prints you show, so thank you again. :) Have you had any issues with it at all? Have you needed those spare cables? Did you get the 'perfect' setting for that woodfil stuff?
@@MakeWithTech Thanks for the reply! Just found your channel, looking at your other videos :) Trying to find a good all round printer that can do nylon x, thanks again!
@@MakeWithTech i just found your "Turning an Ender 5 into a Prusa i3 Mk3" video little out of my price but i think the run out and the thermal runaway protection might be worth it. Apologies for my mass questions! And thank you so much for all your input and knowledge, much appreciated!
Love the questions. My goal of very video is to create a community of people learning together. Keep asking and when you know an answer reply to other viewers questions.
Can the Ultimate 2 print TPU? I'm very interested in this printer and in TPU filaments, so I was wondering if this could print it. Also, if it can print TPU, what settings would you recommend? Thanks!
Never tried it but as a direct extruder printer it should do fine. I do not have a profile for TPU but would start with the Cure generic TPU profile once the printer is selected.
I just purchased this printer. I find it great, but the masking tape over the glass bed was getting to me, so I bought some BuildTak 8x8 3D Print Surface, as you did. The printer stopped working as soon as I added it. As near as I could tell, the printer bed was no longer level (or just outside the tolerance for being level) with the additional thickness of the BuildTak. Do you think I did something wrong when applying this? Is this a common problem?
Are you using the version of Cura that came with the printer or did you switch to a different version or a different slicer. It sound like the autobed leveling is not running and since the buildtech is thicker the nozzle may not be too close to the print service. Make sure your have a G29 in your start of print gcode.
When you add the G29 but it in the start script as G29 P1. I have recently found that some version of firmware require a P value which determines the promb pattern to work.
Need a little help new to 3D been a pc guy since the late 80's I could only find the 2.2.8 firmware for this printer from the monoprice site did extensive searching since updating it no longer holds the z settings via cura or the built in bios also there is no way to set a negative value (not sure it would help) no mater how I set it when I go to print it re adjusts 25-30mm off the build plate & starts to print very frustrating I was able to get 1 good print before I upgraded the firmware had the same problem with thermal runaway one last item is the build plate z axis determined by py the z axis inductive/resistive sensor & if so how is it adjusted I manually set it by setting the extruder 1mm off the bed & adjusting till the light went off is this correct?? --- ANY HELP would be much appreaciated by any chance do you have access to the older firmware it came with 1.6 in the video you mentioned 2.0 were they available on the monoprice site @ the time of review I can not find any firmware on the weedo site for the WEEDO F150S I did extensive bing & google searches for the firmware for either printer found some modded firmware but none of them worked Thanks IN Advance Eric Husser TW9YLLC
Are you sure this is a firmware issue? It sounds like a bed leveling issue or a slicer issue. I just verified I am using 2.2.8 on my printer and had no issues. Let me think about this and see if I can get you any suggestions. What version of Cura are you using? What gcode start code are you using? P.S. I have started a new discussion forum at forum.drvax.com where we can all have more elaborate discussions and share pictures on our prints and printers. Check it out. Irv
Cura 3.3 though it also prints with cura 4.61 just the monitor doesn't show the bed temp just the extruder temp its odd that it printed out of the box 1 perfect print just had periodic connectivity issues is the reason I upgraded the firmware to 2.2.8 the printer is sitting on a flat surface used the card method to make sure 5 points had the same value since im new to 3D didnt mess with the g code what should the g code start code look like is it in a file the printer pulls from like the plugins I sliced with both 3.3 & 4.6 same issue with the 1.6 firmware it shipped with it printed now with the firmware @ 2.2.8 wont so assuming that was the issue I reflashed the firmware 2 more time to make sure it was not a corrupt upload the z sensor was loose when it arrived I just used common sense & set it so the the extruder height of 1mm then raised it till the light just went out I only changed 1 setting @ a time comes from working with vehicles if you change to many things at 1 time there is no way to know what helped or hindered
It sound to me like you may have a lemon. First I would check ALL cables. If you are not getting the bed temperature on the front panel something is either broken or loose. Second, I just did another test with the 2.2.8 firmware and it works fine. Third, I am going to write up a tutorial about setting up the bed so the auto bed leveling will work correctly and post it to the drvax.com website. Then we can discuss at forum.drvax.com. The procedure that worked for me to properly set the bed height is not obvious. I hope to have the write up completed tomororow if nothing comes up.
@@MakeWithTech with that in mind before I contacted you I purchased a replacement I will still watch your bed leveling tutorial I appreciate the help you are calm & concise I tried to watch a few other youtube videos from others 2 dang loud & hyper I will check all the cables funny thing I purchased a Monoprice Maker Select Plus (2) weeks ago it arrived missing 1/2 the set screws several of motor screws were striped all of the axis rods were loose & dislodged the SD card was blank was told to go to the monoprice.com web site for the sofware under the support files for the printer there was no links had to manually configure found out it was a rebranded wanhao i3 got it to print but with the missing parts was never going to be right I contacted monoprice they were absolutely worthless no help could not answer the most basic questions they told me they owned the exclusivity on this machine & it wasnt rebranded glad I found out from you that it is gives more options for apps
@@MakeWithTech 3:30am looks like I got it sorted out wont know for sure till the print completes seems the cura 3.3.0 & the 4.3.0 that shipped with both were slicing the gcode wrong for grins I sliced it with wii builder & the g code is completely different I also disconnected & reconnected all the cables it is now responding like it should I also checked the setting on the z axis sensor set it .05 mm higher than the extruder I know i said I normally just fix one thing @ a time as it seems it is printing a model in petg I'll keep you posted still glad i found your u tube channel
I'm currently running version 1.6 can you provide the link for the firmware upgrade(s), I do not see anything out on Monoprice's website. Were you able to get the on screen z_offset control to work? Also trying to use cura 4.4.1 and have not had good success with this printer. Thanks
I would start by using the version of cura that came with the printer. If you want use Cura 4.X you need to copy ALL of the printer definitions for the machine and the profile from the Cura 3.3 version supplied with the printer to 4.X. Unfortunately in Cura, as far as I can tell, you cannot export a machine definition only a profile. So you have to transfer the settings by hand. The link for the firmware update is at the very bottom of the product description page.
Hello! It's been a while! How do you feel about this printer today? I'm looking for a first printer to use for ABS and PETG prints. The printer may be in my living space, so I was looking for a printer that is enclosed (cats!) and that has a filtered exhaust. It would be my first 3d printer. Price range is about $500. Is this still your favorite?
Hi I updated the firmware from 1.6.0 to 2.2.8 would it be possible to send me full instructions on how setup the settings as after doing a test print the nozzle is far to far from the build plate and I am not sure what I have to do
I am experiencing a weird issue with this printer. When I try to print with any filament besides what came with it, nothing extrudes. It is PLA and 1.75mm. Did you experience any issue like this? I thought at first it might just be clogged, but if I put the filament that came with the printer back in, it works fine!
Fixed it. Turns out, it was a clog. And it was coincidence that it worked that one time. Cleared it up by heating the nozzle up to 220. And then pushing the new PLA through to flush out the clog. It seems its good practice to preheat it up to 200 for the whole process of switching filaments in order to prevent clogs.
Every filament manufacturer is different and the right temperature for one brand of filament may not be appropriate for another. If you have a filament temperature set to low it will not extrude. Try increasing the temperature by 10 degrees and see if this helps. Also try using the front panel to extrude filament at different temperatures. Hope this helps. Irv
The file format for the MP Ultimate 2 is traditional g-code. In addition, I have a Qidi Tech X-Smart and it also uses g-code unlike some of the earlier Qidi Tech printers.
Wierd question - do you think it would be possible to dry out filament rolls by cranking up the bed temperature and closing the door? Slightly less wierd question - do you think the filament cooling fans are adequate? I've heard numerous accounts of bad cooling due to bad duct design on the previous model. Does this one have a duct that aims the air directly at the nozzle? Or is it still just blowing air downwards?
@@almandinefox5160 there is small layer of plastic and if I remember right, also both sides of the each door. Just keep on trying and have faith, it's there :)
Mine keeps asking to replace the filament even though its got plenty and was printing ok moments before. Relaoding it doesn't help. Filament is the standard pla that came with it. Anyone had this problem with this printer?
Check the cable connected to the filament sensor which is in the back left hand corner. The cable is connected on the front. If this cable is loose you may get inaccurate filament out messages.
@@MakeWithTech Good thought. That overcomes the replace filament message and the printer continues but doesn't actually extrude. I presume I've got to clean out the feed gears again. That's not exactly easy on these printers...and nothing like the instructions.
Rich Sangillo that is awesome. And thank you for the quick reply. Can you share your setup - slicer, filaments used, and where do you find “community” to resolve problems? I mean I’d love to bother you all the time for help; but that wouldn’t be right! Hahhaha
Good question. I have not taken it apart to get to the control board, but the lack of WiFi and the quality of the lcd (which is primitive) would lead me to believe it is 8bit.
The Prusa is $1000 fully assembled. This printer is $550. I find the print quality similar but at $1000, not under, you are getting much more than the Ultimate 2. The Prusa has a much bigger print area and higher temperature. However the ultimate 2 is fully enclosed. So at UNDER, yes that is a bit of hyperbole, the Ultimate 2 is quite remarkable.
I own nine 3d printers. Two have been provided by manufacturers the other seven I purchased. I review all products in the same way, independent of if I paid for the product, have the product on loan, or was provided the product at no cost. My goal is to share what I learn by using a range of "maker tools" with my viewers. I think it is unfortunate that you believe a reviewer has to purchase a product to provide a valuable review.
I am beginner to 3D printer. Your explanation is awesome and I'm sold.
Beautiful! Thank you so much for this review. I'm looking into getting back into 3d printing since falling off after have 2 kiddos a year or so after I pre-ordered the Prusa MK2. I'm thinking this will be the printer to get me back into the swing of things till I can properly service my old MK2. Thank you so much for this review!
Could you do a review on bed leveling and z offset as well
I am a 80 year old 3d printing nurd. ad enjoy 3D printing very much. I Bought an Monoprice Ultimate 2 printer as my second printer. in general was OK but hade a fue problems. Support was non existent, I tried to use auto bed leveling when I used the setting on screen it gives 2 options that look like pre set demintions. did not know which one to use. trying to contact support was impossible.I just had a simple question to ask. manual was no help. and just trying to determine which extra nozzle to buy was a problem. I have a Creality Ender 3 and am very happy with it.
Hi. Nice review when I start to work again this will be one printer to look for.
Thanks for the comment.
Love your videos; always very intuitive coverage :)
Great video. After having this device for quite a while. Would you still recommend this? and furthermore... would you recommend it also for beginner to 3d printing?. Thanks
I think this is a solid PLA and TPU printer. I recently did a video on print PETG on it and it is fine for PETG with that do not require print temperatures over 235C. I really like that it is quite fast compared to my Creality printers. The primary negative I have had with it is that it is a bit harder to control stringing on this printer.
Finally a big plus is with the doors closed it is very quiet and due to the doors it is much more child and pet safe.
Nice review! Just for clarification, I have the original Ultimate and the printable area is 200 x 200 x 175 mm.
Thanks for the clarification.
Great review! I would love to see a review of the new Monoprice Cadet 3D printer.
I posted it a couple of days ago. Google drvax cadet or search for it in RUclips.
@@MakeWithTech 🎉🎉 original Google search did not turn it up, thank you!
@Stephen Blake here is the link:
ruclips.net/video/WpwskaG6q1M/видео.html
Hello and thank you for this video. I would now like to get my first 3D printer and think it will be the Monoprice Ultimate 2. But one question please, what exactly did you do with the glass plate? what do you mean by minor update? Best regards and stay healthy.
I put buildtak on top of the glass. I find it easier to print on buildtak than glass. Please check out the blog post at DrVax.com about how to level the bed on the Ultimate 2.
@@MakeWithTech may I ask which BuildTak you used for the Ultimate 2? I find one from Monoprice made of metal and glass. Or can I take other ones and cut them to fit? Please forgive my questions, but I have no idea at all. Or rather, not yet. Greetings and stay healthy.
I purchase BuildTak online, real BuildTak brand, and cut to size. The are easy to cut and have self stick adhesive on the back.
@@MakeWithTech Hello, I read your blog post about bed leveling with the Monoprice ultimate 2. I have a question about it, you write that you are using an index card. what exactly do you mean by index card? can I take my identification card? or my driver's license? best Regards ... Torsten
No a paper 3x5 card.
Dr Vax, how does this compare with the first Ultimate? I have a chance to return my Ultimate and upgrade to the 2.
Completely different machines from different OEMs. This machine is vastly superior.
P.S. I have started a new discussion forum at forum.drvax.com where we can all have more elaborate discussions and share pictures on our prints and printers. Check it out. Irv
@@MakeWithTech yes thank you :) from what I read, Weedo looks like a good company. I will definitely check out the forum.
@@MakeWithTech i just bought the ultimate 2. it was very frustrating. i cannot remove the glass bed
Hi, I really found your review helpful, so I went ahead and bought the Monoprice Maker Ultimate 2. Wishing to experiment with some more exotic materials, I have been trying to find some replacement hot end parts since I only have the original brass nozzle. I have less than a year of experience with 3d printing, so I'm still a bit unclear on what I'm looking for. After a few days of searching, all I've been able to find is the replacement extruder from Monoprice (out of stock). You mentioned getting a ruby nozzle and included a link which seems to apply to the Prusa printer. Do you know what type/size of nozzle I need to buy and/or where to look for something compatible for the ultimate 2? I'd love to get a ruby piece, but hardened steel or other options would be great too.
My only experience with a Ruby nozzle is on my Prusa i3 Mk3. I use it to print hardened anad abbrasive materials. I have not tried changing the Ultimate 2 nozzle, but my guess -- this is a guess, is that any nozzles that will fit in a Creality Ender will also fit in this printer. Standard brass nozzles are quite inexpensive so it is probably worth a try. Please post your results.
Thank you I just got one and you gave me helpful information.
1:08. No, it was a 200x200x175 printer. The Ultimate 2 is a smaller volume.
Does anyone have any resources for printing tethered or with octoprint with this printer? Haven’t been able to find any info online yet about this use case.
Do you have any setting for cura with ABS?
Hi I enjoy your videos very much, I have this printer arriving on Monday 20 April 2020.it is my first 3d printer can you let me know the best and easiest software to download and install.
Regards
John
Hi - is there a Simplify3D profile for this printer?
Yes. However an advantage of the Qidi provided slicer is it supports the wifi option.
Great video. Please help. I have this printer too. Have you been able to successfully print TPU with it? If yes, then with what brand TPU and with what settings? Please advise. Thanks!!!
Not yet! If I have a chance I will try. In general I find slowing down your prints and printing a bit hot soe it is easier for the extruder to push the filament through the hot end helps with TPU.
Wow! Extremely knowledgable and informative review! I think you sold me on it. Still worth getting?
Does it at least operate quieter than the Prusa and Monoprice MP10? I live in a studio so I’m debating between print area vs operating noise.
When the doors are closed the Ultimate2 is quieter however w we hen printing PLA you need to leave the top door open or the printer gets to hot and you will have overhang issues.
Great video. Please help. Will Monoprice Maker Ultimate 2 3D Printer, Maximum Nozzle Temperature 250°C, work with carbon fiber filament? Have you tried it? If yes, then what carbon fiber filament did you use? Thanks.
Sorry, no
Hey DrVax, I've been having lots of issues trying to print PETG on the Ultimate 2. Have you had any success with PETG?
Interesting. I do not recall of I have used PETG on the Ultimate 2 but what are the issues you are seeing. If I have a chance I will give it a try.
@@MakeWithTech Do you perhaps have an email I could reach out to? Otherwise we can try to debug here? I'm also on the Ultimate 2 Reddit community page
Check to this video. I did a number of tests on the Ultimate 2. ruclips.net/video/WjxMA4CkUZc/видео.html
I’m very new to this type of stuff, can you print with an STL file?
Absolutely. I would recommend you take a look at my 3d Printers Demystified Series to learn how to get started:
ruclips.net/p/PLxa9m2nC6N93YM2e7gfXR40i2cANgSR4e
Well I did indeed take the plunge and it arrived today. What I've noticed is the bed leveling only travels to 3 corner of the bed. Omits the right rear corner. Is this an issue? I'm running the latest firmware 2.2.8
That is normal.
Many thanks
Hello, I was wondering - do you still have this printer and how is it running now? :)
Still have it. Used it today. My day to day go to printer because it is fast.
@@MakeWithTech thank you very much for the reply!
I study architecture (MArch) and during my BA a friend bought a mid-price unenclosed 3D printer.. which was a nightmare to keep level (I had to relevel it for Every Print which involved me, four thumbscrews, a piece of paper, and about fifteen minutes), the print quality degraded fast (after a month it just became very stringy and didn't seem to be getting hot enough), and the print nozzle would get clogged (I usually managed to clear it with patience and extra heat, but it just seemed to lose ability to get as hot as it should very quickly - by the end we had it configured to about 15-20*C more than supposedly required, which helped, but that was basically max temp and seems... Not right).
And, I've been considering buying one myself but was afraid I might end up with the same nightmares! Your review covers a lot of things and I appreciate the variety of test prints you show, so thank you again. :)
Have you had any issues with it at all? Have you needed those spare cables? Did you get the 'perfect' setting for that woodfil stuff?
Did you happen to try any nylon with this one? the 250 top temp has me concerned. Thanks!
I doubt this printer will get hot enough for nylon.
@@MakeWithTech Thanks for the reply! Just found your channel, looking at your other videos :) Trying to find a good all round printer that can do nylon x, thanks again!
Prusa with a hardened or ruby nozzle.
@@MakeWithTech i just found your "Turning an Ender 5 into a Prusa i3 Mk3" video little out of my price but i think the run out and the thermal runaway protection might be worth it. Apologies for my mass questions! And thank you so much for all your input and knowledge, much appreciated!
Love the questions. My goal of very video is to create a community of people learning together. Keep asking and when you know an answer reply to other viewers questions.
Can the Ultimate 2 print TPU? I'm very interested in this printer and in TPU filaments, so I was wondering if this could print it. Also, if it can print TPU, what settings would you recommend? Thanks!
Never tried it but as a direct extruder printer it should do fine. I do not have a profile for TPU but would start with the Cure generic TPU profile once the printer is selected.
@@MakeWithTech ok, thank you! Also, since you have been using this printer for a while now, have you encountered any hardware related issues?
I have not had any issues. The more I use this printer the more I like it.
DrVax, aloha! Great video. Like the previous commenter, I’m on the fence. How has your experience been with this printer after making this video?
I just purchased this printer. I find it great, but the masking tape over the glass bed was getting to me, so I bought some BuildTak 8x8 3D Print Surface, as you did. The printer stopped working as soon as I added it. As near as I could tell, the printer bed was no longer level (or just outside the tolerance for being level) with the additional thickness of the BuildTak. Do you think I did something wrong when applying this? Is this a common problem?
Are you using the version of Cura that came with the printer or did you switch to a different version or a different slicer. It sound like the autobed leveling is not running and since the buildtech is thicker the nozzle may not be too close to the print service. Make sure your have a G29 in your start of print gcode.
When you add the G29 but it in the start script as G29 P1. I have recently found that some version of firmware require a P value which determines the promb pattern to work.
Need a little help new to 3D been a pc guy since the late 80's I could only find the 2.2.8 firmware for this printer from the monoprice site did extensive searching since updating it no longer holds the z settings via cura or the built in bios also there is no way to set a negative value (not sure it would help) no mater how I set it when I go to print it re adjusts 25-30mm off the build plate & starts to print very frustrating I was able to get 1 good print before I upgraded the firmware had the same problem with thermal runaway one last item is the build plate z axis determined by py the z axis inductive/resistive sensor & if so how is it adjusted I manually set it by setting the extruder 1mm off the bed & adjusting till the light went off is this correct?? --- ANY HELP would be much appreaciated by any chance do you have access to the older firmware it came with 1.6 in the video you mentioned 2.0 were they available on the monoprice site @ the time of review I can not find any firmware on the weedo site for the WEEDO F150S I did extensive bing & google searches for the firmware for either printer found some modded firmware but none of them worked
Thanks IN Advance
Eric Husser
TW9YLLC
Are you sure this is a firmware issue? It sounds like a bed leveling issue or a slicer issue. I just verified I am using 2.2.8 on my printer and had no issues. Let me think about this and see if I can get you any suggestions.
What version of Cura are you using? What gcode start code are you using?
P.S. I have started a new discussion forum at forum.drvax.com where we can all have more elaborate discussions and share pictures on our prints and printers. Check it out. Irv
Cura 3.3 though it also prints with cura 4.61 just the monitor doesn't show the bed temp just the extruder temp its odd that it printed out of the box 1 perfect print just had periodic connectivity issues is the reason I upgraded the firmware to 2.2.8 the printer is sitting on a flat surface used the card method to make sure 5 points had the same value
since im new to 3D didnt mess with the g code what should the g code start code look like is it in a file the printer pulls from like the plugins
I sliced with both 3.3 & 4.6 same issue with the 1.6 firmware it shipped with it printed now with the firmware @ 2.2.8 wont
so assuming that was the issue I reflashed the firmware 2 more time to make sure it was not a corrupt upload
the z sensor was loose when it arrived I just used common sense & set it so the the extruder height of 1mm then raised it till the light just went out
I only changed 1 setting @ a time comes from working with vehicles if you change to many things at 1 time there is no way to know what helped or hindered
It sound to me like you may have a lemon. First I would check ALL cables. If you are not getting the bed temperature on the front panel something is either broken or loose. Second, I just did another test with the 2.2.8 firmware and it works fine. Third, I am going to write up a tutorial about setting up the bed so the auto bed leveling will work correctly and post it to the drvax.com website. Then we can discuss at forum.drvax.com.
The procedure that worked for me to properly set the bed height is not obvious. I hope to have the write up completed tomororow if nothing comes up.
@@MakeWithTech with that in mind before I contacted you I purchased a replacement I will still watch your bed leveling tutorial I appreciate the help you are calm & concise I tried to watch a few other youtube videos from others 2 dang loud & hyper
I will check all the cables
funny thing I purchased a Monoprice Maker Select Plus (2) weeks ago it arrived missing 1/2 the set screws several of motor screws were striped all of the axis rods were loose & dislodged
the SD card was blank was told to go to the monoprice.com web site for the sofware under the support files for the printer there was no links had to manually configure found out it was a rebranded wanhao i3 got it to print but with the missing parts was never going to be right
I contacted monoprice they were absolutely worthless no help could not answer the most basic questions
they told me they owned the exclusivity on this machine & it wasnt rebranded glad I found out from you that it is gives more options for apps
@@MakeWithTech 3:30am looks like I got it sorted out wont know for sure till the print completes seems the cura 3.3.0 & the 4.3.0 that shipped with both were slicing the gcode wrong for grins I sliced it with wii builder & the g code is completely different I also disconnected & reconnected all the cables it is now responding like it should I also checked the setting on the z axis sensor set it .05 mm higher than the extruder I know i said I normally just fix one thing @ a time as it seems it is printing a model in petg
I'll keep you posted still glad i found your u tube channel
I'm currently running version 1.6 can you provide the link for the firmware upgrade(s), I do not see anything out on Monoprice's website. Were you able to get the on screen z_offset control to work? Also trying to use cura 4.4.1 and have not had good success with this printer. Thanks
I would start by using the version of cura that came with the printer. If you want use Cura 4.X you need to copy ALL of the printer definitions for the machine and the profile from the Cura 3.3 version supplied with the printer to 4.X. Unfortunately in Cura, as far as I can tell, you cannot export a machine definition only a profile. So you have to transfer the settings by hand.
The link for the firmware update is at the very bottom of the product description page.
Hello! It's been a while! How do you feel about this printer today? I'm looking for a first printer to use for ABS and PETG prints. The printer may be in my living space, so I was looking for a printer that is enclosed (cats!) and that has a filtered exhaust. It would be my first 3d printer. Price range is about $500. Is this still your favorite?
Sounds like a great starter printer out of the box. A small print bed.
Bit complex to use as a starter printer. If 150x200 works for you it it is outstanding quality.
Hi I updated the firmware from 1.6.0 to 2.2.8 would it be possible to send me full instructions on how setup the settings as after doing a test print the nozzle is far to far from the build plate and I am not sure what I have to do
I am experiencing a weird issue with this printer. When I try to print with any filament besides what came with it, nothing extrudes. It is PLA and 1.75mm. Did you experience any issue like this? I thought at first it might just be clogged, but if I put the filament that came with the printer back in, it works fine!
Fixed it. Turns out, it was a clog. And it was coincidence that it worked that one time. Cleared it up by heating the nozzle up to 220. And then pushing the new PLA through to flush out the clog. It seems its good practice to preheat it up to 200 for the whole process of switching filaments in order to prevent clogs.
Every filament manufacturer is different and the right temperature for one brand of filament may not be appropriate for another. If you have a filament temperature set to low it will not extrude. Try increasing the temperature by 10 degrees and see if this helps.
Also try using the front panel to extrude filament at different temperatures.
Hope this helps. Irv
What is the file format x3g or gcode? My reason for asking is my Qidi Tech uses x3g and my preference is gcode so it can be sliced in Cura?
The file format for the MP Ultimate 2 is traditional g-code. In addition, I have a Qidi Tech X-Smart and it also uses g-code unlike some of the earlier Qidi Tech printers.
Does this need a bootloader and firmware?
It has a boot-loader. I used a windows laptop to update the firmware.
as always great video. keep posting
Thanks
Wierd question - do you think it would be possible to dry out filament rolls by cranking up the bed temperature and closing the door?
Slightly less wierd question - do you think the filament cooling fans are adequate? I've heard numerous accounts of bad cooling due to bad duct design on the previous model. Does this one have a duct that aims the air directly at the nozzle? Or is it still just blowing air downwards?
This is a completely different printer from a different manufacturer than the ultimate 1. The cooling is excellent.
Mine has very heavily fogged doors, is this normal?
Mind taking the plastic tapes off, then it's clear :)
@@KossuJahvetti yeah I thought so but I have felt all around the edges and found no seam for any tape
@@almandinefox5160 there is small layer of plastic and if I remember right, also both sides of the each door. Just keep on trying and have faith, it's there :)
@KossuJahvetti took me and bae like ten more minutes to find it but we did LOL I owned this thing for two years and never found the layer thank you!
Great job! 👍
Mine keeps asking to replace the filament even though its got plenty and was printing ok moments before. Relaoding it doesn't help. Filament is the standard pla that came with it. Anyone had this problem with this printer?
Check the cable connected to the filament sensor which is in the back left hand corner. The cable is connected on the front. If this cable is loose you may get inaccurate filament out messages.
@@MakeWithTech Good thought. That overcomes the replace filament message and the printer continues but doesn't actually extrude. I presume I've got to clean out the feed gears again. That's not exactly easy on these printers...and nothing like the instructions.
I was on the fence with buying this, but your recommendation pushed me over the edge. Did you happen to find or make a good profile for Cura?
The profile that comes on the sdcard is excellent.
DrVax I guess I didn’t see it. It has the installer for Cura
Rich Sangillo hi. I’m on the edge now too. How has your experience been with this printer. I’m a total noob :)
RJ De Rama I love it, and it has been running non stop since September
Rich Sangillo that is awesome. And thank you for the quick reply. Can you share your setup - slicer, filaments used, and where do you find “community” to resolve problems? I mean I’d love to bother you all the time for help; but that wouldn’t be right! Hahhaha
Nice video, it uses marlin or propetary firmware? if so can I install marlin on it?
It uses Marlin and has a boot loader but not sure if stock marlin will work.
DrVax thank you
Interesting printer 👍😀
Yes. The more I use it the more I like it.
8 bit?
Good question. I have not taken it apart to get to the control board, but the lack of WiFi and the quality of the lcd (which is primitive) would lead me to believe it is 8bit.
BEST 3D PRINTER UNDER $1000?! Even better than the prusa printer I see behind you?
The Prusa is $1000 fully assembled. This printer is $550. I find the print quality similar but at $1000, not under, you are getting much more than the Ultimate 2. The Prusa has a much bigger print area and higher temperature. However the ultimate 2 is fully enclosed. So at UNDER, yes that is a bit of hyperbole, the Ultimate 2 is quite remarkable.
I watched up to the point the reviewer said he was sent the printer for free in exchange for reviewing it.
I own nine 3d printers. Two have been provided by manufacturers the other seven I purchased. I review all products in the same way, independent of if I paid for the product, have the product on loan, or was provided the product at no cost. My goal is to share what I learn by using a range of "maker tools" with my viewers. I think it is unfortunate that you believe a reviewer has to purchase a product to provide a valuable review.