Richard Raffan shapes and sharpens two new gouges, preparing them for use.
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- Опубликовано: 22 май 2024
- As a thank you for publishing these videos for free, a very generous New Zealander gave me two new Hamlet gouges. Here's how I shaped and sharpened each and prevent each gouge slipping in its handle.
Sir, you are an excellent teacher and I really appreciate you sharing your knowledge. This is more than a simple how to, but also you explain the why, which always helps me a lot. Thank you!
This information about the profiles and why you think are convenients, is very interesting, thanks . Also I have been able to see in recent times that other youtubers who had many followers are now following your methods, and leaving unnecessary fashions aside, which is very good for the sector. That New Zealander has been able to show his gratitude and I hope you receive the gratitude of all of us who show it to you with words because all these free videos are a huge and gigantic help to the community. Your books were already a pillar of the building, but now with these videos, you are definitely the best teacher. I always recommend your videos to my students or apprentices in Spain and despite the language, everyone used to seeing "commercial" videos is amazed and their minds change.
Well thank you. These are not my first videos. Turning Wood video published in 1985 helped a lot of people get started on a lathe, and there are other videos too: www.richardraffan.com.au/books-and-dvds/
The New Zealander I believe is Tomislav Tomasic. His instructional videos are very good, and you can see the Raffan influence. Another is Brian Havens but I'm not sure where he is located.
@@clarencegreen3071 Brian Havens is English but I think he passed away.
@@tallerpinocho Whoa! Sorry to hear that. What a bummer!
Thank you for taking the time to pass on your knowledge and expertise, you are wealth of information. I love the ease at which you turn your beautiful creations.
Excellent demonstration to view during my lunch break from another pastime-hydroponic growing in a large home built poly greenhouse-tomatoes, strawberries, capsicum etc. then on to emptying a shed of some junk, to make space for a larger lathe, which arrives in about ten days. I have a load of rough sawn cross grain Huon Pine slabs-8’’ to 12” in diameter, hard as nails, but the price was too good to pass up. Your tool shaping video along with one from Tomislav Tomasiv, is very timely as I have some new gouge’s to shape and sharpen. I might just as well learn from the master, I am used to sharpening metal lathe tool bits the past 60 years, but wood turning gouges are another quite different tools. Kind Regards from Tasmania Australia 😁🛠👍🇦🇺 PS, a very kind gesture from a grateful viewer, donating new tool bits to the cause.👏👍
Shaping and sharpening are my two biggest challenges. Thank you for demonstrating a proper technique.
Love the sharpened handle point to avoid having to use epoxy!
Richard, you make it look so easy to sharpen without all the fancy jigs.
A problem with grinding jigs is that often they're unable to create the most useful edge.
Very interesting vidéo about sharpening gauges
Another informative video thank you. And the comments are of interest also. They always seem very timely to what I’m doing ( spooky music playing in background). I’ve just tried sharpening my homemade HSS fingernail bowl gouge by hand following your tips and Wow. Great results seems sharper than normal.
Here’s my tip to you as a thanks. I’ve always had complaints from the wife about the wood chips entering the house so have started wearing an old wind breaker and absolutely nothing sticks. Still wear the leather apron though.
Great lesson Richard.
❤That was a nice Diamond grinding wheel you have got on your bench grinder i wonder where to get one off these Regards Svendus 👍
I'm using an 80-grit CBN (Cubic Boron Nitride) wheel. CBN is used in industry and in the past 10 or so years CBN wheels have become popular amongst woodturners for grinding High Speed Steel (HSS) woodturning tools. Most specialist woodturning supply stores will stock CBN wheels. It's useful to have the abrasive on the side of the wheel as well as the edge.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning 👍 thank You i think you can also grind HM (hard metal)on this wheel, but it difficult to find CBN wheels with grit also on the sides here in Sweden 🇸🇪
Thanks.. good video
Thank you very much!
Hadn't seen that compound grind before. Thanks!
I've been showing people my asymmetric grind for 50 years and writing about it for 40 years. www.richardraffan.com.au/books-and-dvds/
Your videos are superb, Richard, thank you. In particular, you do things that make sense, rather than what everyone else does or are expected to do.
I'd love to hear you describe in detail the finessing of the inside of bowls if you haven't already? I have a batch of lime (6 months drying). The outside is going like a dream, but my technique inside is requiring a lot of sanding.
It's 50 years since I turned lime (two pairs of giant candlesticks for Washington Cathedral). Lime is a favoured carving wood so should cut easily and cleanly and certainly cleanly enough that it shouldn't require too much sanding, especially if the outside went okay. You see my solutions across the bowl videos, occasionally with some very heavy sanding on stubborn patches of endgrain.
My method copies Stuart Batty and Cindy Drozda and ensures that the bevel angle is the same all the way round, even if the wings are asymmetrical. Set the rest to the desired bevel angle (45 degrees in your case), then put the gouge flat on the rest. Being careful to keep the spot on the cutting edge that is being ground exactly horizontal (parallel to the top edge of the rest) turn the gouge from wing to wing while twisting to keep the edge level. Unlike any jig I've seen, this ensures a constant bevel angle.
However, I haven't seen any proof that a constant bevel angle is actually desirable. For instance, near your left wing-tip I imagine you will often be using a scraping pull cut. A higher bevel angle might be better here.
The point of this grind is that the bevel angle varies so I have a more comfortable entry cut and then the ability to roll to gouge on to a steeper bevel across the bottom inside a bowl. It saves me having two bowl gouges with different bevels.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning thanks for that explanation. As I said, I know how to achieve a constant bevel angle but don’t know if it is always desirable. You convinced me that it isn’t.
The blackend end is because its held with a chuck when its polished out. The factory dont bother to turn it around to do the other end😊
Thank you. You never know what you're going to learn
I saw it on youtube some where😊 Thank you for making these videos, so interesting and relaxing to watch. Cheers from Norway.
How do you keep the tip from getting so hot?
Thank you Richard for sharing that very interesting. Were you taught to do that or is it something you’ve picked up or invented yourself?
This is something I developed myself. I'm almost entirely self-taught.
What is the fine wheel called. Thank you
Thanks for a great video as usual. What grit is your CBN wheel? Thanks, Myles
I use an 80 grit CBN wheel
The jigs exist and I use them regularly. The tool makers don’t get the concept and think the average turner will not either. It is true that you kind of have to know what you are doing. The asymmetric is not
for for the inexperienced.
Given that you developed the asymmetric jig, Matt, I think you're the one who needs to write it up for the AAW and other magazines.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning Asymmetric equals RR:) I appreciate your comment/suggestion and wonderful content, Richard!
Too bad the asymmetric jig didn’t take flight. There is now another sharpening video to reference. A big thanks to the anonymous donor!
Seems like many might find something that provides repeatability for a complex grind useful.
Is 180 grit the finest you use?
I generally use tools straight off 80-grit wheels, both CBN and aluminium oxide.
And the left hand stone is what grade please?
The left side wheel is an 80-grit CBN.
I notice you’re not worrying about overheating the steel. Is that something to do with that tool or lathe tools in general? Or is it something to do with the grinder?
The High Speed Steel can be heated more than carbon steel.
High speed steel has a lot of other alloying elements that stabilise the crystal structure. You have to heat it a lot to ruin the temper, i think up around 600c. If you have simple high carbon steel tools you do have to worry. Most wood lathe tools seem to be high speed steel these days
@@talltimberswoodshop7552 Correct. Thanks for your input.
@@alextopfer1068 Thanks for helping.
As the others indicate, overheating is not too much of an issue with High Speed Steel (HSS). It's best to HSS cool without quenching.
Richard - are your Shear Scrapers a 'bought' tool or are they something you've re-purposed ?
Three of my shear scrapers were made by Henry Taylor and one is a converted 1-in x ¼-in skew chisel that was becoming too short for spindlework. The shear scrapers are also 1-in x ¼-in.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning Richard - many thanks for your comprehensive answer - much appreciated !