Mr. Potterfield I know you may never see this comment but I would like to thank you for all the videos you put out. I used this particular video to clean up my great grandfather's American arms 12 gauge side by side and it looks amazing. I also used this method to clean the grime from my grandfather's 30-40 krag-jorgensen carbine he handed down to me shortly before passing. I would like to say also you are my inspiration to become a gunsmith I am going to attend a school as soon as I graduate high school. Again I just want to thank you for all you do for the gun community and our second amendment rights and for being an inspiration to me.
I'm also curious if you landed in gunsmithing!? Although I'm sure you did, and are serving the community well.. If by some chance you didn't, I'm confident you are putting your skills to good use.
I agree but we often hear that if you touch the origional finish, the collector's value is gone. He took off all the origional finish. I love to do the same on some of my old millitary guns but I don't want them to loos their value.
Actually yes it is. For me, it has two benefits. I get to concentrate on something that I truly enjoy doing, and I get to preserve a piece of history. I only collect military guns with proven service. This doesn't necessarily mean in combat, but service of some sort. On one the brass parts were so tarnished that they had the appearance of blackened steel. Now the brass shines the stock is beautiful as is the rest. I like abandoned or unwanted guns. So if I mess up a little I'm not out anything
@@SA-lr1sfwas on a gun forum where the tools me not to refinish the stock. This is what I refer to as refinishing and since the stock was already created and repaired before I received it I think this is the best treatment that I could perform to keep the gun serviceable.
Thanks again Larry! I did this with an old Jaeger flintlock rifle. I was VERY happy to have kept the order of which screw went where when disassembling the frozen Lock. Turns out EVERY screw was a slightly different size and length. I carefully drew out a diagram of the Lock on a small piece of Styrofoam sheet I cut out of a to go box. Punching a small hole for each and every screw in its proper spot on the diagram. It took a Vernier caliper to notice the difference in sizes, but without that step it would not have worked after the cleaning and repair to a rounded sear.
I carefully drew out a diagram of the Lock on a small piece of Styrofoam sheet I cut out of a to go box. Punching a small hole for each and every screw in its proper spot on the diagram. I read that in Larry's voice.
Ahhh, the many uses for Hoppe's #9. Good tip. Didn't know lacquer thinner worked so well on stocks either. A lot of people soak them in tubs of Simple Green for a day or 2, but then you have to dry them. Another good tip. Good video.
Thank you very much for this easy how to do video. I've seen some people sand and refinish old rifle stocks. I want preserve the piece of history I just bought, and I don't want to lose any markings.
0:20 Cool.I always thought about the loading system having a safety issue when you had to literally move the hammer all the way back to open it. Like the old saying goes in art. "If you came up with an idea today, chances are you can find evidence or hints of someone having the same idea 100 years before."
For really oil soaked stocks I use Easy Off. To restore the finish on an American military rifle, I use cosmoline along with an oil finish. This restores the original reddish hue that the guns had from the original grease coating.
crud cutter works great just be carful not to go down to original finnish first coat i sprayed on stock than wiped than secound cleaning i sprayed on rag than wiped worked out great .
The key thing is to be very careful to remove ONLY the dirt & grime! Occasionally you'll be pleasantly surprised by finding much of the original finish still intact underneath.
@Atlantean I used Murphy's Oil Soap and Tom's 1/3 wax mix to clean up a Finnish M39, and it worked awesome. Thinking about repeating for a Winchester 94.
GLOVES! Wear nitrile gloves when handling this stuff, you will be glad you did! I have a feeling a lot of the grime on this old rifle is a mix of old oil and cigarette smoke from ages of hanging on a wall. I really enjoy these short and to the point videos, I've learned quite a lot watching them.
I have actually seen old mix formula of 1/3 Murphy, 1/3 Rubbing Alcohol, and 1/3 hydrogen Peroxide used to clean BP guns and clean Vintage wood and products. I have tried it our and seems to work well.
I have a very nice Argentinean RB contract in 43 Spanish that will get a similar treatment. It's surprising that mine never got re-blued. I finally got brass and loading dies.
I have an unmaintained Type 99 Arisaka whose stock I am cleaning. I hear that the Arisaka used an extinct, special type of highly reactive finish. Would cleaning in this way be appropriate with this stock? Also, could I use 0000 steel wool on the stock, as I have heard others do?
I've been following your process for the wood for a couple of sessions now and the effects of the lacquer thinner is much slower than your video suggests. Obviosly time lapse photography at work here. Don't get me wrong. I appreciate the demonstration but I would also appreciate a comment on the length of time this process takes.
Larry, are you using the original Hoppe's No. 9 or the so-called "benzeneless" (or safer) type? I wish I could get you to re-do my FN Kodiak 30-06. As always, Great Work!
Should we let the hoppes #9 soak on the surface for some time before cleaning? I followed these directions and grime was not removed as shown on your video. I’m sure I did something wrong. Any thoughts here?
Yes, sometimes it's necessary to let the Hoppes soak for a few minutes before hitting the part with the steel wool. Also know that it may take several applications of the Hoppes/steel wool to get all the dirt/grime/varnish off. Patience often is the most important tool in the tool box.
Old printshop and mechanic shops. Or www.uline.com/Product/Detail/H-1846R/Safety-Storage/Oily-Waste-Can-Red-6-Gallon?pricode=WA9291&gadtype=pla&id=H-1846R&gclid=EAIaIQobChMInpyos8207wIVx0XVCh0LBAeOEAQYBCABEgKPavD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Thanks for the awesome video! Just opened up my father’s shed and found some old grimy rifles. Unfortunately, I fear that I might do more harm than good If I do so.
Yee, it's a shaving brush. It's a great tool for getting a little bit of oil in all the nooks, crannies and corners found on the typical firearm. They are available in 3-packs and are very inexpensive. I keep one in every safe, on my workbench and in my rage bag. The one in the range bag I keep in a plastic sandwich bag.
Anyone comment...I did this with a really dark m1 garand. I wanted to keep the wood with the dings & dents but clean it up a bit. I did exacty what he did but barely anything came off on the rags & wood. It didn't go down to almost bare wood like in this video. I want to stop where I am & go back later but after all the lacquer thinner Im concerned about just rubbing it down with boiled linseed oil. Any advice on what to do?? Also I would like to scrub down the parts that look rusted but I did & again no real change
My guess is that your garand has a coat of varnish or possibly true oil or linseed oil that has been left to dry to a hard finish without the excess being wiped off for a more satin / oiled finish. This is another proper, fairly common use of these type of oils, but creates a more impermeable layer that mineral spirits alone won't cut through once this has been left to harden. Try acetone to cut / remove the hard shiny surface. It is a stronger solvent so it will also draw out all oil from the stock and dry the wood if you try to use it to do the entirety of the cleaning, so I would only use it to remove the outer most layer first, then try the mineral spirits for further cleaning. If the mineral spirits still don't remove it, go a bit deeper with the acetone. It is possible to do the entire cleaning with acetone, but as stated, it dries the wood terribly and evaporates quickly so it isn't advisable to use alone. If your concerned about this method, try it on a small less conspicuous spot first. Worst case scenario, though, is it simply won;t cut whatever sealant was used. If that is the case, I can suggest yet another even stronger solvent used in the same manner.....xylene Hope this does the trick for you. I love those Garands! Let me know how it works out
believe it Thanks, Ill try that. I was worried I may dry out the wood a bit to much with most methods Ive seen/read about. Also there are some spots that seem like the wood is already a bit dry so I didn't want to risk it until I had more information. I did find out a few things but Im not sure how to respond to it. I looked at everything I did the day after and it did seem like it took a good bit off but some of the wood had an odd red tint to it. I read on CMP that it happens when a service rifle has had a lot of oils absorb into the wood and if I read correctly this is a more sought after look/wood set. Since I had things I was concerned about & questioned, I gave it a couple light coats of BLO and put it back together until I can get a better idea of what I want to do with the rifle. It does have dents & dings but I think it adds character, the overall look of it says Ive seen some stuff and I wouldn't want to replace that with a I just came off the shelf look. I just want to make sure its in the best protected shape and still able to take it out every now & then without issue. Thanks again for the info!
Chem istry You are certainly welcome. Another option is to use 000 or 0000 steel wool to "break" through the high sheen first. Another viable finish method is to allow any finishes (like BLO or Try oil to dry (instead of wiping off all excess) then burnishing it with the same type steel wool to remove the shine. It creates a nice satiny finish while leaving the wood protected by the oils. This is, of course, after you have accomplished all cleaning etc. The main thing is to not go overboard with any of the solvents as you try to get at the dirt. The nice thing with acetone, is that it will generally evaporate far faster than it will be absorbed by the stock. I hope it all works out for you. there are few things as handsome as the wood grain on a garand stock.
I just won a RIA auction and got a 1863 Sharps converted to 50-70 US Gov. and I'd like to have it converted to 45-70 with new steel 22 inch barrel. Who could do this conversion of my new antique?
I'd say that going at it with a clean rag (some recommend 0000 steel wool) and thinner would work better to pull the dirt out than just soaking it would. Not to mention that you would have to let it dry for a very very long time if you soak it, as the thinner has to work itself back out of the wood before you can continue with the linseed.
0000 steel wool will not remove bluing, as long as you don't go rambo on it. If you want to be on the safe side though, bronze wool will not remove bluing even if you do go rambo on it.
I know this is old, but that gun...and many others....was never blued. Anyone that would show an honest interest in this gun would be a high end collector (as they are quite rare and expensive) that would know that this gun was never blued.
Let's say you've acquired an original Winchester 1873 that has been sitting for who knows how long in a storage unit and all the metal is covered in rust... I'm assuming that's an appropriate situation to do one of these proper cleanings, correct? I'm talking really rusted, all metal parts covered in it - including the innards. The hammer is missing so I can see inside and the link and inner parts are completely rusted as well. The lever is frozen and won't budge more than maybe a quarter inch. I've had no luck even removing the screws yet it's so rusted. My intention is to replace all the working parts (if I can't clean them well enough) and make it a shooter, maybe for Cowboy Action.
***** Ahhh, I said "intention." Intentions may change depending on circumstances. To quote Helmuth von Moltke the Elder, "no battle plan ever survives contact with the enemy." Doesn't take much brain power to adjust to reality - a plan may sound stupid at first but the stupid ones are those who don't adjust. But thanks for your incredibly reasoned response.
Now that Remington has declared bankruptcy I hope we will still be able to get Rem Oil. are there any identifying engraving marks on rolling block guns? Where do they appear?
Larry, you should wear disposable gloves when you work with solvent. This time it is lacquer thinner and Hoppe's #9, but you do it with other solvents as well. Yes, we didn't wear them back in the day, but we know better now.
im confused as to why sanding the stock would decrease the value of the gun, but removing old lacquer doesn't. to me it seems like if one method decreased the value the other should as well, personally i would much rather have a professional refinishing done than i would have a completely original gun just cleaned.
Mostly old dried on oil and cigarette smoke by the look of it. Rifle was probably a wall hanger in some smoky place. Luckily the grime protected it from corrosion by the look of it at least. And it was kept dry as the wood itself never held moisture enough to corrode the barrel that it was in contact with.
Goodbye patina. It will never make sense to me why someone would want to remove 100+ years of "age". It took time for it to get like that. There's no easy way to add it back except wait another 100 years.
Mr. Potterfield I know you may never see this comment but I would like to thank you for all the videos you put out. I used this particular video to clean up my great grandfather's American arms 12 gauge side by side and it looks amazing. I also used this method to clean the grime from my grandfather's 30-40 krag-jorgensen carbine he handed down to me shortly before passing. I would like to say also you are my inspiration to become a gunsmith I am going to attend a school as soon as I graduate high school. Again I just want to thank you for all you do for the gun community and our second amendment rights and for being an inspiration to me.
Have you had any luck becoming a gunsmith?
OOOO a Krag. Nice.
Hey mate just seeing your comment now. You end up finishing high school and becoming a gun smith. I’m intrigued to know?!?
I'm also curious if you landed in gunsmithing!? Although I'm sure you did, and are serving the community well.. If by some chance you didn't, I'm confident you are putting your skills to good use.
I too am watching this to clean up my grandpas old remington 721 from 1949 I don't wanna damage it in any way but boy is it in need of some cleaning
This is therapeutic in a way. It's always nice to see old guns given new life.
I agree but we often hear that if you touch the origional finish, the collector's value is gone. He took off all the origional finish. I love to do the same on some of my old millitary guns but I don't want them to loos their value.
Actually yes it is. For me, it has two benefits. I get to concentrate on something that I truly enjoy doing, and I get to preserve a piece of history. I only collect military guns with proven service. This doesn't necessarily mean in combat, but service of some sort. On one the brass parts were so tarnished that they had the appearance of blackened steel. Now the brass shines the stock is beautiful as is the rest. I like abandoned or unwanted guns. So if I mess up a little I'm not out anything
@@SA-lr1sfwas on a gun forum where the tools me not to refinish the stock. This is what I refer to as refinishing and since the stock was already created and repaired before I received it I think this is the best treatment that I could perform to keep the gun serviceable.
Thanks again Larry! I did this with an old Jaeger flintlock rifle. I was VERY happy to have kept the order of which screw went where when disassembling the frozen Lock. Turns out EVERY screw was a slightly different size and length. I carefully drew out a diagram of the Lock on a small piece of Styrofoam sheet I cut out of a to go box. Punching a small hole for each and every screw in its proper spot on the diagram. It took a Vernier caliper to notice the difference in sizes, but without that step it would not have worked after the cleaning and repair to a rounded sear.
I carefully drew out a diagram of the Lock on a small piece of Styrofoam sheet I cut out of a to go box. Punching a small hole for each and every screw in its proper spot on the diagram.
I read that in Larry's voice.
I really enjoy your videos. You have a perfect demeanor. It's like hanging out in grandpa's work shop learning things. Your an excellent teacher.
This guy is the Bob Ross of guns. So soothing to watch lol.
I think jack Rowe is.
Looks like this gun originally hung for decades in a smoky veteran's club hall. What a difference some careful cleaning can make.
As a veteran and a member of a veterans' organization, I take offense to this comment. Veterans ALWAYS respect firearms.
Ahhh, the many uses for Hoppe's #9. Good tip. Didn't know lacquer thinner worked so well on stocks either. A lot of people soak them in tubs of Simple Green for a day or 2, but then you have to dry them. Another good tip. Good video.
Thank you very much for this easy how to do video. I've seen some people sand and refinish old rifle stocks. I want preserve the piece of history I just bought, and I don't want to lose any markings.
Thank you Mr. Potterfield for the content you put out
Everyone has a different take on cleaning and refinishing. To my eyes, that one looks great!
I love your videos, even i dont have any gun , even i never fired any..... still i love your videos. So soothing.
Beautiful rifle. Even after all that work you must be very tempted to get it dirty with some powder residue. Great video! Keep 'em comin'.
the videos are very good. I'm currently training to be a gunsmith in Germany. the videos are very exciting and you learn new things.
How is the process going?
He is truly a Master craftsman
I like the way how deligatly you handle the gun. Excellent.
I love this dudes energy
0:20 Cool.I always thought about the loading system having a safety issue when you had to literally move the hammer all the way back to open it. Like the old saying goes in art. "If you came up with an idea today, chances are you can find evidence or hints of someone having the same idea 100 years before."
I wish I could have Mr Potterfield help me with my restoration projects!
For really oil soaked stocks I use Easy Off. To restore the finish on an American military rifle, I use cosmoline along with an oil finish. This restores the original reddish hue that the guns had from the original grease coating.
What a beautiful rifle!
crud cutter works great just be carful not to go down to original finnish first coat i sprayed on stock than wiped than secound cleaning i sprayed on rag than wiped worked out great .
The key thing is to be very careful to remove ONLY the dirt & grime! Occasionally you'll be pleasantly surprised by finding much of the original finish still intact underneath.
@Atlantean I used Murphy's Oil Soap and Tom's 1/3 wax mix to clean up a Finnish M39, and it worked awesome. Thinking about repeating for a Winchester 94.
happy new year Larry
Harry Potterfields voice is the best to listen to, it's so soothing and good if you're stressed I highly recommend his videos.
Informative, educational video. Great video. Thank you.
Just lacquer thinner for cleaning
Awesome!
Thanks
It'd be amazing to clearly see the products used, a quick close-up on the bottles perhaps
GLOVES! Wear nitrile gloves when handling this stuff, you will be glad you did! I have a feeling a lot of the grime on this old rifle is a mix of old oil and cigarette smoke from ages of hanging on a wall. I really enjoy these short and to the point videos, I've learned quite a lot watching them.
Yep, and a well ventilated area, the fumes from lacquer thinner can be hard on the body.
I was in shop class in Colo. in the 60's with this mexican kid who sniffed lacquer thinner. He went completely crazy later that year.
Was his name "Cheech Marin" by any chance....lol😁
@@kevincolliss2877 😂😂😂😂😂😂
Very interesting video! Thanks!
A 50/50 mix of Murphy's Oil Soap and water works well also.
I have actually seen old mix formula of 1/3 Murphy, 1/3 Rubbing Alcohol, and 1/3 hydrogen Peroxide used to clean BP guns and clean Vintage wood and products. I have tried it our and seems to work well.
Excellent video!!! Thank you
How could anybody dislike this
You da man Larry !
Good job! It looks great!
I have a very nice Argentinean RB contract in 43 Spanish that will get a similar treatment. It's surprising that mine never got re-blued. I finally got brass and loading dies.
The color difference in the wood from the cleaned side and the dirty side is crazy!
How is the in-the-white barrel not rusted up to beyond useless?
oil
Hi Larry, how i can deep clean an old bolt action rifle? Its hoppes number 9 suggested also for the bolt ?
How can I tell if the stock on my old Forehand arms single shot 12 gauge is “oiled”?
Do you know if this same treatment would work for the metal on a springfield 1903?
Thank you!
Witch bit set is that one seen on the right at 0:55
I have an unmaintained Type 99 Arisaka whose stock I am cleaning. I hear that the Arisaka used an extinct, special type of highly reactive finish. Would cleaning in this way be appropriate with this stock? Also, could I use 0000 steel wool on the stock, as I have heard others do?
I've been following your process for the wood for a couple of sessions now and the effects of the lacquer thinner is much slower than your video suggests. Obviosly time lapse photography at work here. Don't get me wrong. I appreciate the demonstration but I would also appreciate a comment on the length of time this process takes.
can I fix dent and sand only that area to keep original markings
l like my old 100+ dirty guns just the way they are.
Larry, are you using the original Hoppe's No. 9 or the so-called "benzeneless" (or safer) type? I wish I could get you to re-do my FN Kodiak 30-06. As always, Great Work!
Bravo!
Good viedo!
Should we let the hoppes #9 soak on the surface for some time before cleaning? I followed these directions and grime was not removed as shown on your video. I’m sure I did something wrong. Any thoughts here?
Yes, sometimes it's necessary to let the Hoppes soak for a few minutes before hitting the part with the steel wool. Also know that it may take several applications of the Hoppes/steel wool to get all the dirt/grime/varnish off. Patience often is the most important tool in the tool box.
Idk but these videos kinda feel like how my grandpa used to teach me
Thanks Master
I want that trash can he put the rags in for my home office.
Old printshop and mechanic shops. Or
www.uline.com/Product/Detail/H-1846R/Safety-Storage/Oily-Waste-Can-Red-6-Gallon?pricode=WA9291&gadtype=pla&id=H-1846R&gclid=EAIaIQobChMInpyos8207wIVx0XVCh0LBAeOEAQYBCABEgKPavD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Thanks for the awesome video! Just opened up my father’s shed and found some old grimy rifles. Unfortunately, I fear that I might do more harm than good If I do so.
Baking oven foam spray is also great to clean that kind of stocks.
How can you tell if you stock is oil finished?
by the feel
the finishes feel different
Was that a shaving brush I saw being used to apply oil? Not sure Van der Hagen had that use in mind. Good stuff. Non Sibi, Sed Patriae.
Yee, it's a shaving brush. It's a great tool for getting a little bit of oil in all the nooks, crannies and corners found on the typical firearm. They are available in 3-packs and are very inexpensive. I keep one in every safe, on my workbench and in my rage bag. The one in the range bag I keep in a plastic sandwich bag.
Might be a little late, but does anyone know where to buy 3 band fore ends for these? Reproductions preferably.
What does that rifle go for before cleaning the rust and grime off of it? And what’s the difference between operational and non operational?
Fantastic
Anyone comment...I did this with a really dark m1 garand. I wanted to keep the wood with the dings & dents but clean it up a bit. I did exacty what he did but barely anything came off on the rags & wood. It didn't go down to almost bare wood like in this video. I want to stop where I am & go back later but after all the lacquer thinner Im concerned about just rubbing it down with boiled linseed oil. Any advice on what to do?? Also I would like to scrub down the parts that look rusted but I did & again no real change
My guess is that your garand has a coat of varnish or possibly true oil or linseed oil that has been left to dry to a hard finish without the excess being wiped off for a more satin / oiled finish. This is another proper, fairly common use of these type of oils, but creates a more impermeable layer that mineral spirits alone won't cut through once this has been left to harden. Try acetone to cut / remove the hard shiny surface. It is a stronger solvent so it will also draw out all oil from the stock and dry the wood if you try to use it to do the entirety of the cleaning, so I would only use it to remove the outer most layer first, then try the mineral spirits for further cleaning. If the mineral spirits still don't remove it, go a bit deeper with the acetone. It is possible to do the entire cleaning with acetone, but as stated, it dries the wood terribly and evaporates quickly so it isn't advisable to use alone. If your concerned about this method, try it on a small less conspicuous spot first. Worst case scenario, though, is it simply won;t cut whatever sealant was used. If that is the case, I can suggest yet another even stronger solvent used in the same manner.....xylene
Hope this does the trick for you. I love those Garands! Let me know how it works out
believe it Thanks, Ill try that. I was worried I may dry out the wood a bit to much with most methods Ive seen/read about. Also there are some spots that seem like the wood is already a bit dry so I didn't want to risk it until I had more information. I did find out a few things but Im not sure how to respond to it. I looked at everything I did the day after and it did seem like it took a good bit off but some of the wood had an odd red tint to it. I read on CMP that it happens when a service rifle has had a lot of oils absorb into the wood and if I read correctly this is a more sought after look/wood set. Since I had things I was concerned about & questioned, I gave it a couple light coats of BLO and put it back together until I can get a better idea of what I want to do with the rifle. It does have dents & dings but I think it adds character, the overall look of it says Ive seen some stuff and I wouldn't want to replace that with a I just came off the shelf look. I just want to make sure its in the best protected shape and still able to take it out every now & then without issue. Thanks again for the info!
Chem istry You are certainly welcome. Another option is to use 000 or 0000 steel wool to "break" through the high sheen first. Another viable finish method is to allow any finishes (like BLO or Try oil to dry (instead of wiping off all excess) then burnishing it with the same type steel wool to remove the shine. It creates a nice satiny finish while leaving the wood protected by the oils. This is, of course, after you have accomplished all cleaning etc. The main thing is to not go overboard with any of the solvents as you try to get at the dirt. The nice thing with acetone, is that it will generally evaporate far faster than it will be absorbed by the stock. I hope it all works out for you. there are few things as handsome as the wood grain on a garand stock.
I just won a RIA auction and got a 1863 Sharps converted to 50-70 US Gov. and I'd like to have it converted to 45-70 with new steel 22 inch barrel. Who could do this conversion of my new antique?
Maybe a stupid question but is #9 oil or a solvent??
Does anyone know the front furniture length and spacing of the bands?
That looks like refinishing
I removed grime with a tooth brush and it still removed the bluing . Need a reblue job done on my old rifle.
Nice
real nice
would it be beter to soaked the butstock in lacquer thinner over night
I'd say that going at it with a clean rag (some recommend 0000 steel wool) and thinner would work better to pull the dirt out than just soaking it would. Not to mention that you would have to let it dry for a very very long time if you soak it, as the thinner has to work itself back out of the wood before you can continue with the linseed.
Even in 1870 they had NY model guns. What's old is new again sadly.
+borzak101 Doesn't mean the same thing now it did back then.
Sarcasm, you should google it.
borzak101 I can't believe I didn't see that. *facepalm* lol
sadly that's gun is all that is legal to own in NY lol
Now i would think that someone would say they took off the blueing with steel wool
0000 steel wool will not remove bluing, as long as you don't go rambo on it.
If you want to be on the safe side though, bronze wool will not remove bluing even if you do go rambo on it.
I know this is old, but that gun...and many others....was never blued. Anyone that would show an honest interest in this gun would be a high end collector (as they are quite rare and expensive) that would know that this gun was never blued.
There was no bluing , but u could argue he removed alot of the "patina" ...maybe
What if a gun like a trapdoor has varnish on it?
How much would a rolling block in average condition go for?
You mean mineral spirits? Isnt lacquer thinner too strong??? 🤔
Let's say you've acquired an original Winchester 1873 that has been sitting for who knows how long in a storage unit and all the metal is covered in rust... I'm assuming that's an appropriate situation to do one of these proper cleanings, correct? I'm talking really rusted, all metal parts covered in it - including the innards. The hammer is missing so I can see inside and the link and inner parts are completely rusted as well. The lever is frozen and won't budge more than maybe a quarter inch. I've had no luck even removing the screws yet it's so rusted. My intention is to replace all the working parts (if I can't clean them well enough) and make it a shooter, maybe for Cowboy Action.
FlyingJJD Cool a 73 winchester, It depends,, What is the serial number? any pics?
***** Ahhh, I said "intention." Intentions may change depending on circumstances. To quote Helmuth von Moltke the Elder, "no battle plan ever survives contact with the enemy." Doesn't take much brain power to adjust to reality - a plan may sound stupid at first but the stupid ones are those who don't adjust. But thanks for your incredibly reasoned response.
Personally, I like my guns to do gun things. From the sound of it, if it really is rusted beyond use, I would restore it, shoot it, and pass it down.
will this work on other models
Nope. Just that exact gun.
dang
i wish i had one...
Use 4/0000 steel wool.
Appropriate to clean an old gun so as long as you do it... appropriately.
Now that Remington has declared bankruptcy I hope we will still be able to get Rem Oil. are there any identifying engraving marks on rolling block guns? Where do they appear?
Anyone else like it the way it was better than after the cleaning? What, just me then?
Larry, you should wear disposable gloves when you work with solvent. This time it is lacquer thinner and Hoppe's #9, but you do it with other solvents as well. Yes, we didn't wear them back in the day, but we know better now.
im confused as to why sanding the stock would decrease the value of the gun, but removing old lacquer doesn't.
to me it seems like if one method decreased the value the other should as well, personally i would much rather have a professional refinishing done than i would have a completely original gun just cleaned.
Maybe watch the video again on half speed
@@Bladsmith it's not properly explained in the video, so i don't see how witching itt again at a slower speed will explain anything.
Or you just missed everything about how sanding would remove original markings and how the solvent just removes excess oil
@@Bladsmith so your essential saying that scratches and wear count as original markings ?
Aaand you missed the manufacturer's markings being shown
I am sorry you are doing more than cleaning the stock. You removed all the old color. Doesn't that effect the collector's value on a collectable gun?
No, the “old color” is revealed thru removing the old oil, dirt, and grime (which made it look dark brown or black), and adding new oil.
OK OK HOPPES #9 is a brand name Hoppes #9 What exactly....OIL???? Rag??? Solvent???? NITRO BUSTER???? I hate that use HOPPES #9 gun oil,,,WHAT??????
Its a very strong gun cleaning oil. They make other products also.
thanks
Lol google it noob
oh man, that's a mile beyond patina
That was pure nicotine coming off at gun
this is better than porn
Peter Vaňušanik that's debatable
You must watch boring porn. This is Definitely cool, but come on.
🇧🇷👍
I would love to shoot that rifle . Awsome job .
332 people get it, 1 person will never understand.
This time I will do it manually with the help of Stodoys plans designs.
What the heck is that stuff? I've never seen a gun so grimy
Mostly old dried on oil and cigarette smoke by the look of it. Rifle was probably a wall hanger in some smoky place. Luckily the grime protected it from corrosion by the look of it at least. And it was kept dry as the wood itself never held moisture enough to corrode the barrel that it was in contact with.
never clean an antique anything without consulting with an expert first. even non destructive cleaning can really hurt value on some items.
He ruined this gun by removing the finish. All it needed was some mild cleaning.
Completely destroyed the stock finish, nice
BOL... 15min... hahahahaaaaaaaa - See you in two days
This time I'll use woodprix instructions to make it by myself.
Hoppes No.9 is really a poor choice in gun cleaning.
I find shooter's choice MC-7 is a bit better.
Goodbye patina. It will never make sense to me why someone would want to remove 100+ years of "age". It took time for it to get like that. There's no easy way to add it back except wait another 100 years.
Please do without the music. It's too loud, it's repetitive, it's annoying. Just leave it off.