I am not a frequent commenter on videos, but yours was incredibly helpful for me. I followed your instructions and miraculously day 8 and my tank looks the best it has in 6 -7 weeks. I’m going to keep treating through the end of your prescribed program. Thanks again and great video and advice. 7
Thank you 🙏 so glad things are turning around for you ☺️ best part is, I haven’t had Dino’s ever again since I last documented here. It works long term 💪
The vibrant wiped out all of my fish in 30 minutes. Were gasping for air. Measured it also. Avoid the vibrant in established tanks. If you dose it go SLOW. If your water has gone brown stick with the microbacter 7 and no lights for a week +.
@@tylerhuxford44 yes. Dosed exactly as instructions said. My water had a brown rust tint the dinos were so bad. Whatever it did I think it coated their gills. They all blacked out....were trying to jump out of tank, swimming straight into the glass and rocks....was a helpless feeling. Inverts made it . I had a 55gal drum of pre mix ready to go so i started water changes immediately to save what i could. 1 clownfish made it and he spent the whole night laying on the bottom gasping for air. All water tested fine. This has been a 2 month battle with dinos for me. UV is keeping the water clear but every few weeks it comes back on the gravel and i did the whole tank with livesand.. I ordered actual ocean wet shipped liverock from Tampa Bay saltwater hopefully that does the trick. Water changes made it worse. Started tank in October with baserock. I finally have some hair algae growing in spots i am actually hoping it takes off and out competes the other stuff. Brought in 4 frags from a local guy and that kickstarted this whole thing. Tank was spotless before that.
I've read that Green Killing Machine isn't great. I've got a Biocube 29, and no sump. That's all that really fits in limited space. Do you have any other recommendations for UV on an AIO? I had great success with the blackout and dosed Seachem Nitrogen and Phosphorus. Have been dosing Microbacter 7 for almost 2 weeks now, post blackout, and it seems it's coming back (mostly on the sand). I also turned my whites down from 80% to 60%, and shortened my daily light cycle by about 2 hours. Ordered some better filter socks to start the daily clean.
@@tylerhuxford44 thanks! So on a Biocube, you'd want to hang that on the back of chamber 3, and plumb it through the return pump line? Does that mean I'd probably need to upgrade my return pump too?
@@tylerhuxford44 What micron filter socks are you using for the dinos? Also, going off the deep end on this... what about an algea scrubber? Seems like it might help. But reading mixed reviews. Was looking to drop in one of those Santa Monica DROP or HOG scrubbers in Chamber 2.
Great video. Thank you for sharing your experiences. I'm winning the beatle in here, and the only thing I'm doing differently is I'm not using UV because of the type of dinoflagellates in my tank (Amphidinium), it's more benthic one. Another thing I would recommend is to stop using GFO for a while just because it releases iron on water. As you said in the video and I confirm that dinos does love iron. Probably I'll get Maxspect Phosfree for adjusting the phosphate level in my tank. It doesn't release iron on the water.
Hey! Great video, this has really helped me down the path to start fighting dinos, especially with me being a beginner tank owner. However I have one issue. The UV sterilizer. I have a 10 gallon tank for context, I saw you recommended the Turbo Twist UV Sterilizer, however the 9 watt that I think i need is over $120. I seriously do not have that type of money at the momen, and i need to get these dinos under control. Do you know of any cheaper sterilizers that would work?
Innovative marine has two uv sterilizers! Though I’m not sure how they will fit in your 10 gallon without seeing it… so just make sure it would fit as you do your so diligence ☺️
The skimmer I turn off, but the UV sterilizer I leave running. They’ve updated those instructions, it didn’t use to mention the uv sterilizer at all. It’s worked for me 💪☺️
@@tylerhuxford44so one more last thing… I’m on day 10 (just dosed vibrant on day 8) and I checked my phosphate and it’s at 4.4!!! Is that normal? Should I just start the course or do the water change now? Ps the tank is looking much better and the corals looking better
@@kylealexander954hey glad the tank is looking better ☺️ I will tell you how I feel about phosphates, and this isn’t bible, this is just the gospel according to the red reefer 😅 I don’t test for phosphates ever. I go by the eye test on phosphates. “Are corals doing well? Great, keep going.” Because the fact of the matter is, even a low reading on phosphates can mean your phosphates are actually too high but you have loads of algae sucking it all out so your test reads clean 🤷♂️ on the other hand, high phosphates might just mean you have nothing problematic sucking phosphates out of the water. I only test for calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium, and for the most part, things go really well
@@tylerhuxford44gotcha well the Dino’s are definitely gonna and all my zoas are finally opening and not all stretched out so I’ll just stay the course and do the water change when you said and hopefully things go back to normal. My tank has looked like crap the last 2-3 months and have been losing corals and I couldn’t figure out why. Guess it was the Dino’s because everything looking much better already 👍🏻
Probably too be honest 😕 but my green mandarin has lived in my tank for 4 years now and is fat and happy. I don’t think they free float around the tank like that
This is insane! I used the exact same products and the exact same uv sterilizers!!! Didnt work until I added the streilizers! I just started seeing small amount stringy stuff and small amout of bubbles so I think I may have gotten my po4 to low changing out my gfo but no way could my nitrates be 0 like last time. Last time I dosed to much nopox and will NEVER use that again. I really dont have away to keep nitrates down now because I dont have a fuge or reactors! But I have been dosing prime because of a disappearing dead fish! I have bought lots of corals frags lately! Do you know if they can come in on frags? Also I was doing a recap and thats how I found your video and thought they took Vibrant off the market! I know most stores wont sell it after they found out it actually just fluconazole thats supposed to be an algae killer but bad for your tank. I dosed vibrant throughout the whole thing though. Are u saying to dose only once at 8 days? I thought you need competing bacterias to kill them! Great video!
Sorry you’ve experienced all that! And in my experience, yes, frags from stores and other tanks absolutely being Dino’s with them, so be careful. Adding anything to your tank will potentially add pests of all kinds, so beware of that! Glad that you’re using a UV sterilizer! That’s so important. I hate dosing things, never really recommend it, especially nitrates and phosphates 😕
Just went through this natural disaster myself. 4 day blackout and tons of Microbacter 7. Siphon sand before you blackout and give er ha ha Sand pure white and rocks super clean.
Hi I have dinos I’ve completed a 3 day black out, still seems to be slightly present after the blackout, Ive watched your video and went to my LFS and brought mircobackter 7 but since buying the bottle of mircobackter 7 like you say I’ve read the bottle and it clearly says it lowers NO3 and PO4 but dinos thrive in conditions low NO3 and PO4 systems so I’m just wondering what’s your logic on that? Because I feel like since reading the bottle that I may have just wasted my money, I have a fairly new system 2months old everything is/was going okay (before dinos) even had some growth on afew candy canes a friend gave me and a coral beauty fish that had it rear fin nipped off but now grown back lovely and he looks fat 😂 My clean up crew consists of 1 chalk goby 10/15 turbo snails 3 hermit crabs Another thing the blackout I recently done got rid of the bubbles and brown/red algae over my rock etc but since taken stuff off from blackout I still have afew bubbles on my rock? If you could shed some light on the mircobackter situation that’ll be wicked thank you in advance and I enjoy your videos
There are a whole lot of comments on Amazon's page for the Coralife UV sterilizer stating that it's prone to leaking and then electrifying the tank. There appears to be a serious manufactiuring issue with that product. You haven't had any issues? I mean, I'd like to get that one because it's cheaper than some others I'm seeing, but not if it's going to shock me and my livestock. Great video, by the way. I'm optimistic I can get my dinos killed with these steps, but I need to get a sterilizer first (never used one before, but I never had dino before).
Really? This is great to know! I was not aware people were experiencing this. I have had three of these for different takes and never experienced this. I will say I place them all vertically in my tank, as I’ve heard that keeps water in the UV longer, and it keeps the power input side up. Maybe this has helped with my success? It’s always good to hear other perspectives! I’m glad you shared this. No issues on my side though
@@tylerhuxford44 Maybe placing them vertically is the key. I'm still shopping for one and had ruled this one out because of the issues, but maybe I can reconsider it given your success.
I forgot to add in last long comment. I have been direct feeding some suffering frags restor by brightwell. Its mostly amino acids I think. Should I stop using that? Also Is it ok to feed corals Reef roids during treatment? Do you shut off Skimmer when you dose MB7?. Can I just unscrew the cup and not unplug? To many plugs and not sure which is skimmer lol I usually just take cup off! lol
The microbacter bottle says what to do with the skimmer! I unfortunately can’t remember what it said… amino acids I would stop, those and trace elements are like snacks to Dino’s
Here for the krack! I know the giveaway was about 290 subs ago… I just wanted to say “Here for the krack!” 😂 Here for the krack! Here for the krack! Here for the krack! That’s fun! It’s not every day you get to say stuff like that, without really strange looks and waking up in a rehab facility.
@ I believe in the school of thought that Dino’s is not a “lack of nutrients,” but rather a lack of bio diversity. The symptom is then a lack of nutrients. Increase the bacteria and bio diversity and competition in the tank, the nutrients come down on their own, the Dino’s get choked out 💪
@tylerhuxford3440 welp, I got a UV and it almost wiped out the dino in the first day. I did literally nothing else. I guess I got lucky with the type and/or amount of Dino in the tank. What do you think? Leave it for a couple of weeks and try to filter out what's left or go through all the steps? I'd rather not add chemicals if I don't have to. idk
@@tylerhuxford44 so I've hit a sorta stable spot with the dinos. I have some still showing up but not much. Do you think I should still do all the steps in order? thanks
@@MumRah boom! If just the uv worked, then the only other thing I’d do is the microbacter 7. Because that stuff is just good stuff ☺️ everything else, you probably don’t need. Uv sterilizers are so important
Great video. However this method with UV may only be this effective against free-floating dinos and not against ones that rarely enter the water column such as LCA and Prorocenturm. Since these dinos rarely enter the water column UV would be much less effective.
Good Point! The UV on it’s own might not be the end all, be all for LCA and Prorocentrum, but assuming you siphon out what you can into the socks, your manually removing a lot of what grows on the rocks and substrate, and what’s inevitably breaking off is killed in the water column. I think the UV sterilizer does 75% of the work, and the recipe doesn’t work without the UV Sterilizer, but the other steps are just as necessary for those “impossible” strands :)
@@tylerhuxford44 awesome, just bought the uv sterilizer and will try this process to a T, will reply in a few weeks with the results. been dosing Micorbacter Clean every other day and Dr Tim's Waste Away on the other day, raised my temp slowly to 82, vaccuum up the Dino's every other day, see a bit of improvement after about 10 days but I want them gone LOL
@@tylerhuxford44 Thanks for the reply, been dosing Microbacter Clean and Dr Tim's Waste Away alternating days, siphoning out Dino's every other day, raised my temp to 82 over a week. Been seeing some progress but I want them gone!
Great video. I've successfully used Dino-X in the past. The last time wasn't as successful as the first, but it is a very powerful treatment method. Best to keep nutrients from bottoming out in the first place.👍🏾
Likewise! I actually almost made a video of the one time I used Dino x, as that worked too… but I lost a couple of SPS corals in the process… could have been the light out period regiment I followed 🤷♂️
@@tylerhuxford44I can’t see how your advice is gentler. Vibrant is an Algacide and you are suggesting fast flow through a uv which is the complete opposite of what you should be doing for Dino’s.
I had really bad dinos I used the microbacter7 and let other algae out compete the dinos my tank got really dirty i kinda left it alone for a while algae completely took over I had cyano bubble and hair algae it out competed the dinos so I did a 25% water change cleaned out the hair algae the bubble algae and cyano than I noticed flatworms on my glass I than used flatworm exit did a 25% water change again and the flatworm exit did nothing (so I bought a wrasse hopefully that will help).but after all that I noticed something on my sand I thought it was diatoms but when I took it under the scope it's dinos again my phosphates and nitrates didn't go to 0 though.. but i had dinos only on my sand bed and a different strand so I got a UV light changing filter socks every morning and dosing microbacter7 again but I've been doing that for about 9 days my phosphate is at 0.52 my nitrates at about 25 I still have dinos on sand bed with mix of diatoms but much much less dino..my question should I do a big or small water change or wait till dino completely gone? I have lost some corals but don't want to loose anymore
Hi, how has the Dino battle progressed? I think UV is less effective against sand dwellling dinoflagalettes. I think your nitrates are too high, compared to your phospahte. Try lowering your nitrates closer to 5ppm, but not any lower during the battle. (That is from reading a lot, as I had dinoflagallets badly). What has been effective in your opinion? Did the Microbacter help at all?
I would have to disagree unfortunately. I think that theory is supported by the fact that iron is desired and consumed by competing organisms such as algae… but once again, you’re feeding a problem down the road not necessarily killing the Dino’s. I personally just stay away from trace elements when going after Dino’s ☺️ could just be me
This could totally work 😊 but Ive seen those supplements have cause some undesired effects too. How quickly have you see Dino’s go away with dosing those products?
@@tylerhuxford44 depend on when your problem start. Dinos cyano can take along time before they bloom, it can 2, 3 or even 4 month. So, when no3 po4 level up, tank need 1 to 4 month to let them out, depend on your bacteria. Dose some bacteria product and a little cacbon source will help much. I use prodibio digest (1 for 2 week) and 5ml vinegar/day/100l tank.
@@tylerhuxford44 you will have green hair algea or some coral will better than in color and health. After dinos, cyano go away you can tinker your no3 po4 level for hair algea. I see when you keep no3 about 5 - 15, po4 0.05-0.15 i dont have any problem about algea. If have hair algea, not enough tang and snail in tank.
@@tylerhuxford44 jake adam of reefbuilder always dose kno3 kh2po4 on his tank for 5-10ppm no3 and 0.1 po4. It will help him in dinos cyano problem. You can research. He still uses amino axit for N ,P source for coral so kno3 kh2po4 he use for bacteria battle again dinos and cyano. Sorry about my bad English, I dont use English in my country.
@@PhongHuynh0981314893 sounds like you’re doing a great job keeping your nitrates and phosphates in check 🙂 that will definitely go a long way! Your reef looks great!
I got rid of dinos in a matter of days simply by getting my no3 and po4 in check. It was undetectable as i dont have alot of stock and didnt feed alot. So i started feeding and added no3 and po4 then tested untill it got detected. Also i removed my skimmer. Dinos gone, tank flurishing like new!
You do know that most of the dino's wont be killed by a UV ? So you know there are more types of dino then ostreopsis who is only type that is toxic. So youre advice isn't al that good.
Sorry everything you have mentioned I tried and more, didn’t work I’m using DINO X last resort or I’m out of the hobby thank for the nonsense and wasting money
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
I am not a frequent commenter on videos, but yours was incredibly helpful for me. I followed your instructions and miraculously day 8 and my tank looks the best it has in 6 -7 weeks. I’m going to keep treating through the end of your prescribed program. Thanks again and great video and advice. 7
Thank you 🙏 so glad things are turning around for you ☺️ best part is, I haven’t had Dino’s ever again since I last documented here. It works long term 💪
The vibrant wiped out all of my fish in 30 minutes. Were gasping for air. Measured it also. Avoid the vibrant in established tanks. If you dose it go SLOW. If your water has gone brown stick with the microbacter 7 and no lights for a week +.
Whoooa, never heard of this. Did you follow dosing instructions?
@@tylerhuxford44 yes. Dosed exactly as instructions said. My water had a brown rust tint the dinos were so bad. Whatever it did I think it coated their gills. They all blacked out....were trying to jump out of tank, swimming straight into the glass and rocks....was a helpless feeling. Inverts made it . I had a 55gal drum of pre mix ready to go so i started water changes immediately to save what i could. 1 clownfish made it and he spent the whole night laying on the bottom gasping for air. All water tested fine. This has been a 2 month battle with dinos for me. UV is keeping the water clear but every few weeks it comes back on the gravel and i did the whole tank with livesand.. I ordered actual ocean wet shipped liverock from Tampa Bay saltwater hopefully that does the trick. Water changes made it worse. Started tank in October with baserock. I finally have some hair algae growing in spots i am actually hoping it takes off and out competes the other stuff. Brought in 4 frags from a local guy and that kickstarted this whole thing. Tank was spotless before that.
Just one thing I forgot to mention!: it does help if you can turn the flow in your tank up, especially at night 😊
I've read that Green Killing Machine isn't great. I've got a Biocube 29, and no sump. That's all that really fits in limited space. Do you have any other recommendations for UV on an AIO? I had great success with the blackout and dosed Seachem Nitrogen and Phosphorus. Have been dosing Microbacter 7 for almost 2 weeks now, post blackout, and it seems it's coming back (mostly on the sand). I also turned my whites down from 80% to 60%, and shortened my daily light cycle by about 2 hours. Ordered some better filter socks to start the daily clean.
Coralife turbo twist!
@@tylerhuxford44 thanks! So on a Biocube, you'd want to hang that on the back of chamber 3, and plumb it through the return pump line?
Does that mean I'd probably need to upgrade my return pump too?
@@tylerhuxford44 What micron filter socks are you using for the dinos? Also, going off the deep end on this... what about an algea scrubber? Seems like it might help. But reading mixed reviews. Was looking to drop in one of those Santa Monica DROP or HOG scrubbers in Chamber 2.
Great video lots of great tips. Definitely one of the most dreaded things in this hobby
Definitely 😩 but it works!!! 💪
Great video. Thank you for sharing your experiences. I'm winning the beatle in here, and the only thing I'm doing differently is I'm not using UV because of the type of dinoflagellates in my tank (Amphidinium), it's more benthic one.
Another thing I would recommend is to stop using GFO for a while just because it releases iron on water. As you said in the video and I confirm that dinos does love iron. Probably I'll get Maxspect Phosfree for adjusting the phosphate level in my tank. It doesn't release iron on the water.
Hey! Great video, this has really helped me down the path to start fighting dinos, especially with me being a beginner tank owner. However I have one issue. The UV sterilizer. I have a 10 gallon tank for context, I saw you recommended the Turbo Twist UV Sterilizer, however the 9 watt that I think i need is over $120. I seriously do not have that type of money at the momen, and i need to get these dinos under control. Do you know of any cheaper sterilizers that would work?
Innovative marine has two uv sterilizers! Though I’m not sure how they will fit in your 10 gallon without seeing it… so just make sure it would fit as you do your so diligence ☺️
@@tylerhuxford44 Thank you! :)
Should I still use garlic and vits for my fish food
A bit overrated in my opinion 😕 but can work some time for finicky eaters
@tylerhuxford44 oh I meant with the dino problem I have...
Microbacter 7 says to turn of skimmer and UV for first 4 hours when you dose. Do you recommend just keeping those both running?
The skimmer I turn off, but the UV sterilizer I leave running. They’ve updated those instructions, it didn’t use to mention the uv sterilizer at all. It’s worked for me 💪☺️
@@tylerhuxford44so one more last thing… I’m on day 10 (just dosed vibrant on day 8) and I checked my phosphate and it’s at 4.4!!! Is that normal? Should I just start the course or do the water change now? Ps the tank is looking much better and the corals looking better
@@kylealexander954hey glad the tank is looking better ☺️ I will tell you how I feel about phosphates, and this isn’t bible, this is just the gospel according to the red reefer 😅
I don’t test for phosphates ever. I go by the eye test on phosphates. “Are corals doing well? Great, keep going.” Because the fact of the matter is, even a low reading on phosphates can mean your phosphates are actually too high but you have loads of algae sucking it all out so your test reads clean 🤷♂️ on the other hand, high phosphates might just mean you have nothing problematic sucking phosphates out of the water.
I only test for calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium, and for the most part, things go really well
@@tylerhuxford44gotcha well the Dino’s are definitely gonna and all my zoas are finally opening and not all stretched out so I’ll just stay the course and do the water change when you said and hopefully things go back to normal. My tank has looked like crap the last 2-3 months and have been losing corals and I couldn’t figure out why. Guess it was the Dino’s because everything looking much better already 👍🏻
THANK YOU,WHAT DO I DO IF I DO NOT HAVE A UNDER TANK FILTRATION SYSTEM?
does uv sterilizer kill copepods?
Probably too be honest 😕 but my green mandarin has lived in my tank for 4 years now and is fat and happy. I don’t think they free float around the tank like that
This is insane! I used the exact same products and the exact same uv sterilizers!!! Didnt work until I added the streilizers! I just started seeing small amount stringy stuff and small amout of bubbles so I think I may have gotten my po4 to low changing out my gfo but no way could my nitrates be 0 like last time. Last time I dosed to much nopox and will NEVER use that again. I really dont have away to keep nitrates down now because I dont have a fuge or reactors! But I have been dosing prime because of a disappearing dead fish! I have bought lots of corals frags lately! Do you know if they can come in on frags? Also I was doing a recap and thats how I found your video and thought they took Vibrant off the market! I know most stores wont sell it after they found out it actually just fluconazole thats supposed to be an algae killer but bad for your tank. I dosed vibrant throughout the whole thing though. Are u saying to dose only once at 8 days? I thought you need competing bacterias to kill them! Great video!
Sorry you’ve experienced all that! And in my experience, yes, frags from stores and other tanks absolutely being Dino’s with them, so be careful. Adding anything to your tank will potentially add pests of all kinds, so beware of that! Glad that you’re using a UV sterilizer! That’s so important. I hate dosing things, never really recommend it, especially nitrates and phosphates 😕
Should I use the UV filter on throughout the treatment?
Definitely definitely
Who else has had Dino’s here? 🦖🦕😅
Just got done with Dino's🤦♂ Where were you 8 months ago 🤨😆😆😆 Good video, good program!!!👍👍👍
@@willcollectorslounge6050 hahaha oh man, 8 month battle, I feel that! But glad it’s over now, happy for you!
Just went through this natural disaster myself. 4 day blackout and tons of Microbacter 7. Siphon sand before you blackout and give er ha ha Sand pure white and rocks super clean.
@@sylvester7800 is glad this worked for you! 💪 Dino’s can be beaten!
Hi I have dinos I’ve completed a 3 day black out, still seems to be slightly present after the blackout, Ive watched your video and went to my LFS and brought mircobackter 7 but since buying the bottle of mircobackter 7 like you say I’ve read the bottle and it clearly says it lowers NO3 and PO4 but dinos thrive in conditions low NO3 and PO4 systems so I’m just wondering what’s your logic on that? Because I feel like since reading the bottle that I may have just wasted my money,
I have a fairly new system 2months old everything is/was going okay (before dinos) even had some growth on afew candy canes a friend gave me and a coral beauty fish that had it rear fin nipped off but now grown back lovely and he looks fat 😂
My clean up crew consists of
1 chalk goby
10/15 turbo snails
3 hermit crabs
Another thing the blackout I recently done got rid of the bubbles and brown/red algae over my rock etc but since taken stuff off from blackout I still have afew bubbles on my rock? If you could shed some light on the mircobackter situation that’ll be wicked thank you in advance and I enjoy your videos
There are a whole lot of comments on Amazon's page for the Coralife UV sterilizer stating that it's prone to leaking and then electrifying the tank. There appears to be a serious manufactiuring issue with that product. You haven't had any issues? I mean, I'd like to get that one because it's cheaper than some others I'm seeing, but not if it's going to shock me and my livestock. Great video, by the way. I'm optimistic I can get my dinos killed with these steps, but I need to get a sterilizer first (never used one before, but I never had dino before).
Really? This is great to know! I was not aware people were experiencing this. I have had three of these for different takes and never experienced this. I will say I place them all vertically in my tank, as I’ve heard that keeps water in the UV longer, and it keeps the power input side up. Maybe this has helped with my success? It’s always good to hear other perspectives! I’m glad you shared this. No issues on my side though
@@tylerhuxford44 Maybe placing them vertically is the key. I'm still shopping for one and had ruled this one out because of the issues, but maybe I can reconsider it given your success.
I forgot to add in last long comment. I have been direct feeding some suffering frags restor by brightwell. Its mostly amino acids I think. Should I stop using that? Also Is it ok to feed corals Reef roids during treatment? Do you shut off Skimmer when you dose MB7?. Can I just unscrew the cup and not unplug? To many plugs and not sure which is skimmer lol I usually just take cup off! lol
The microbacter bottle says what to do with the skimmer! I unfortunately can’t remember what it said… amino acids I would stop, those and trace elements are like snacks to Dino’s
Here for the krack!
I know the giveaway was about 290 subs ago… I just wanted to say “Here for the krack!” 😂
Here for the krack!
Here for the krack!
Here for the krack!
That’s fun! It’s not every day you get to say stuff like that, without really strange looks and waking up in a rehab facility.
Hahahaha dude this was hysterical 🤣 this give away happened! We need you to tune in next video for the 5k subscriber give away! Holy grail torches!!!
Everytime i used Microbacter 7 my dino explodes i can repeat this everytime. Not sure if it contains them 🤔 but dosent help rid them
Interesting… the exact opposite is supposed to happen here. Do you have a uv sterilizer?
@@tylerhuxford44 no i dont run Uv at the moment.
@@tylerhuxford44 my tank bottomed out and then came the dino war 😅
@@tylerhuxford44microbactr 7 reduces nitrates, it’s useless for Dino’s.
@ I believe in the school of thought that Dino’s is not a “lack of nutrients,” but rather a lack of bio diversity. The symptom is then a lack of nutrients. Increase the bacteria and bio diversity and competition in the tank, the nutrients come down on their own, the Dino’s get choked out 💪
Hi, UV must work 24/h ? Only night ?
I run mine 24hrs
I have dinos right now. Going to grab a UV and give this a shot this weekend. Wish me luck!
Good luck soldier 🫡 but in all honesty I have complete confidence your situation will improve with a uv sterilizer. Remember, fast rate of flow!
@tylerhuxford3440 welp, I got a UV and it almost wiped out the dino in the first day. I did literally nothing else. I guess I got lucky with the type and/or amount of Dino in the tank.
What do you think? Leave it for a couple of weeks and try to filter out what's left or go through all the steps? I'd rather not add chemicals if I don't have to. idk
@@tylerhuxford44 so I've hit a sorta stable spot with the dinos. I have some still showing up but not much. Do you think I should still do all the steps in order? thanks
@@MumRah this is definitely the best order I’ve found to work 👍 I think the better you can replicate this formula, the quicker they’ll be fine ☺️
@@MumRah boom! If just the uv worked, then the only other thing I’d do is the microbacter 7. Because that stuff is just good stuff ☺️ everything else, you probably don’t need.
Uv sterilizers are so important
Too late for the zoa?
No way! We’re not at 2000 yet ☺️ make sure you comment sir!
I battle them many time in many tank by one way: decrease organic waste put in and increase inorganic no3 po4 ( kno3 kh2po4 source).
Great strategy!
Great video. However this method with UV may only be this effective against free-floating dinos and not against ones that rarely enter the water column such as LCA and Prorocenturm. Since these dinos rarely enter the water column UV would be much less effective.
Good Point! The UV on it’s own might not be the end all, be all for LCA and Prorocentrum, but assuming you siphon out what you can into the socks, your manually removing a lot of what grows on the rocks and substrate, and what’s inevitably breaking off is killed in the water column. I think the UV sterilizer does 75% of the work, and the recipe doesn’t work without the UV Sterilizer, but the other steps are just as necessary for those “impossible” strands :)
Can I run my carbon reactor during the 8 day process?
Pretty sure I took the carbon out… the microbacter such specify in the instructions
@@tylerhuxford44 awesome, just bought the uv sterilizer and will try this process to a T, will reply in a few weeks with the results. been dosing Micorbacter Clean every other day and Dr Tim's Waste Away on the other day, raised my temp slowly to 82, vaccuum up the Dino's every other day, see a bit of improvement after about 10 days but I want them gone LOL
@@tylerhuxford44 oh and thanks for the quick reply! Happy Thanksgiving!!!
@@tylerhuxford44 Thanks for the reply, been dosing Microbacter Clean and Dr Tim's Waste Away alternating days, siphoning out Dino's every other day, raised my temp to 82 over a week. Been seeing some progress but I want them gone!
Great video. I've successfully used Dino-X in the past. The last time wasn't as successful as the first, but it is a very powerful treatment method.
Best to keep nutrients from bottoming out in the first place.👍🏾
Likewise! I actually almost made a video of the one time I used Dino x, as that worked too… but I lost a couple of SPS corals in the process… could have been the light out period regiment I followed 🤷♂️
What lights are those on the tank in the background ?
Radions!
Radions!
Radions!
People may think you are killing dinosaurs
@kailmoabstracted 🤣 turns out it was Dino-x that killed the dinosaurs. Mystery solved!
Why not just syphon into the sock in the sump? Save a step and unlimited syphon time.
You’re smarter than I am my friend! Yes indeed, that would most definitely work!
not everyone has a sump
@The_Altered this thread is so old I don't even know what it's about😅.
Just ordered my Dino X. Time go get medieval on my dinoflagellates!
Best I’d luck to you Anthony! That stuff works, I’ve used it, but the way I suggested is far gentler and natural in my opinion ☺️
@@tylerhuxford44I can’t see how your advice is gentler. Vibrant is an Algacide and you are suggesting fast flow through a uv which is the complete opposite of what you should be doing for Dino’s.
I had really bad dinos I used the microbacter7 and let other algae out compete the dinos my tank got really dirty i kinda left it alone for a while algae completely took over I had cyano bubble and hair algae it out competed the dinos so I did a 25% water change cleaned out the hair algae the bubble algae and cyano than I noticed flatworms on my glass I than used flatworm exit did a 25% water change again and the flatworm exit did nothing (so I bought a wrasse hopefully that will help).but after all that I noticed something on my sand I thought it was diatoms but when I took it under the scope it's dinos again my phosphates and nitrates didn't go to 0 though.. but i had dinos only on my sand bed and a different strand so I got a UV light changing filter socks every morning and dosing microbacter7 again but I've been doing that for about 9 days my phosphate is at 0.52 my nitrates at about 25 I still have dinos on sand bed with mix of diatoms but much much less dino..my question should I do a big or small water change or wait till dino completely gone? I have lost some corals but don't want to loose anymore
Really sorry you’re experiencing that! Question for you: what kind of UV light are you using? And how big is your tank?
I'm using the same one you talked about coral life turbo twist up to 125g
My tank about 90g
Hi, how has the Dino battle progressed? I think UV is less effective against sand dwellling dinoflagalettes. I think your nitrates are too high, compared to your phospahte. Try lowering your nitrates closer to 5ppm, but not any lower during the battle. (That is from reading a lot, as I had dinoflagallets badly). What has been effective in your opinion? Did the Microbacter help at all?
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Dino is from lack of iron. Dose Iron and watch it go away
I would have to disagree unfortunately.
I think that theory is supported by the fact that iron is desired and consumed by competing organisms such as algae… but once again, you’re feeding a problem down the road not necessarily killing the Dino’s.
I personally just stay away from trace elements when going after Dino’s ☺️ could just be me
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Dose no3 po4 by kno3 kh2po4. No3 10 ppm,po4 0.1 ppm and all dinos cyano will go away
This could totally work 😊 but Ive seen those supplements have cause some undesired effects too. How quickly have you see Dino’s go away with dosing those products?
@@tylerhuxford44 depend on when your problem start. Dinos cyano can take along time before they bloom, it can 2, 3 or even 4 month. So, when no3 po4 level up, tank need 1 to 4 month to let them out, depend on your bacteria. Dose some bacteria product and a little cacbon source will help much. I use prodibio digest (1 for 2 week) and 5ml vinegar/day/100l tank.
@@tylerhuxford44 you will have green hair algea or some coral will better than in color and health. After dinos, cyano go away you can tinker your no3 po4 level for hair algea. I see when you keep no3 about 5 - 15, po4 0.05-0.15 i dont have any problem about algea. If have hair algea, not enough tang and snail in tank.
@@tylerhuxford44 jake adam of reefbuilder always dose kno3 kh2po4 on his tank for 5-10ppm no3 and 0.1 po4. It will help him in dinos cyano problem. You can research. He still uses amino axit for N ,P source for coral so kno3 kh2po4 he use for bacteria battle again dinos and cyano. Sorry about my bad English, I dont use English in my country.
@@PhongHuynh0981314893 sounds like you’re doing a great job keeping your nitrates and phosphates in check 🙂 that will definitely go a long way! Your reef looks great!
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The only thing I know that works is a UV. Without that fuck that....
I completely agree 😅 if you have Dino’s and are unwilling to use a UV, prayers your way 🙏 but get comfortable with the Dino’s haha
@@tylerhuxford44 sometimes people need to learn the hard way lol. Great video big dog.
@@HCBCHEMISTRY appreciate that my guy 💪
I got rid of dinos in a matter of days simply by getting my no3 and po4 in check. It was undetectable as i dont have alot of stock and didnt feed alot. So i started feeding and added no3 and po4 then tested untill it got detected. Also i removed my skimmer. Dinos gone, tank flurishing like new!
We’ll done sir 💪
Good doesn’t work for all of us mine gets worse when nutrients get higher. Dino x is my last resort
You do know that most of the dino's wont be killed by a UV ? So you know there are more types of dino then ostreopsis who is only type that is toxic. So youre advice isn't al that good.
Definitely many types! Almost all are killed effectively with UV ☺️ and I think I said that some forms are toxic right? Not all? Thanks for tuning in!
No need uv.
I’m seen some great tanks without them ☺️ but I’ll always have one 💪
Sorry everything you have mentioned I tried and more, didn’t work I’m using DINO X last resort or I’m out of the hobby thank for the nonsense and wasting money
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