I had come to a similar conclusion when pairing my shots from the Zf with modern day noise reduction software and haven’t looked back on iso since setting the dial to auto iso. There have only been 1 or 2 shots that I wasn’t happy with and that was more to do with the quality and lack of light, rather than the noise performance. It’s incredibly nice not to have to even think about juggling iso values.
I have three main reasons that I still use manual ISO, 1) I'm an amateur, will have to nail the triangle in my head. 2) I have a wish that I'll be able to shoot film in the future, if it's still existing then. 3) When I tried manual mode with auto ISO on, I found that every photo I shot have the same light level, it made the dawn light and the dusk look the same perfectly lit, which not my intention, I want the light level in the scene reflect the time of shooting like early morning, late, afternoon, evening, have different light level, and I don't want to adjust them in post. But yeah, everyone can do any way they want, no rules basically. Thank you for the video.
You’re definitely right about certain situations benefiting from setting it, like dusk or dawn. Depending on your film camera you could still meter in a priority mode as well, but always better to learn full manual first. Thanks for stopping by.
Im relatively new to photography (just for a hobby) and have been using auto iso really and i agree with you, i use a fuji camera and the compensation exposure dials are always helpful to when im not happy with what iso the camera is choosing
@@scotttuckerphotography it's the only implementation i know so i can't comment on other brands, but that's the beauty and excitement of the camera world, there's so many implementations to try and discuss about (albeit the pricey process of doing so)
As a public transport photographer, I learnt many year ago auto ISO was my friend, when I could set my shutter speed and react to any shoot in a split second, concentrating on the situation and not constantly worrying about my settings.
Great perspective. Everyone wants you to chase the latest and greatest of which I am guilty, but you hit it on the head. ISO should be a secondary thought. In fact, when you shoot film, you are confined to whatever your film is. You only adjust shutter and DOF.
@@Jellings71 exactly right about film…it becomes a total afterthought and all you worry about is making sure your bokeh aesthetic and shutter speed are dialed in. Same concept! Glad you liked the video, thanks for popping by.
The newest cameras can handle a ridiculously high ISO with their ridiculously high megapixel sensors. Ny old Nikon D750 does all that I need with ISO set to 12800 max. Auto ISO and manual. The only way to shoot 99% oc the time. 👍👍
Its funny how some folks use to point out that (put camera name here) has .01 stops less dynamic range than Nikon or Sony or vice versa. Everybody pointed to the photons to photos dynamic range charts and the battle enraged on many forums about this and now we toss it all away with auto iso. If I absolutely need that shot I will sacrifice dynamic range with ISO but otherwise I dont want my fancy new $8k camera to have less dynamic range than a camera built 15 years ago like the Canon 7D as an example. Can others chime in on how they feel about dynamic range due to auto iso. I do use auto iso for video but for photos I pay close attention when using auto iso. For birding some dark days I have no choice and have to accept ISO 3200 but I would rather lower it to 1600 - shoot under exposed and push the gain up in post. The image detail does disappear at higher ISOs thats a fact. Incidentally I just traded in my Canon R6mk2 for a Nikon ZF - first time shooting Nikon and the iso settings are driving me up the wall :)
There is so much to unpack with this question. 1) People misuse the entire point of what DR is and how it's measured. Let's say you have a scene that is pushing 12 stops...guess what? Almost no camera, not even one with 13 stops, is going to give you a good photo of it. Now, will the 13 camera resolve shadows just a teensy bit better than a camera with 12 in that scenario? Sure. 2) These cameras today, even if they have the same DR on paper as a 7D, render noise and tonal transitions better. You can't just compare the numbers. 3) As said in the video, ISO 3200 on a modern camera far surpasses the same ISO value on an older camera, so you have to test your camera and find the highest ISO you're comfortable with. The only way you're squeezing every drop of DR out of your camera is to shoot at base ISO. It's a rare day to be blessed with good enough light with the appropriate subject to be able to do that. I just stopped caring about maximizing every drop of IQ and focus on trying to capture moments with the best settings I can for that moment of light.
I'm not sure how it really saves time unless your comparison is full manual. If I set aperture and SS while letting camera do ISO vs. setting aperture and ISO and let camera do SS, isn't that the same number of steps? I most often shoot aperture priority and adjust ISO while watching SS to make sure its fast enough.
@scotttuckerphotography if I'm raising ISO until the shutter speed is acceptable, how is that not the same as raising the shutter speed and ignoring ISO. I'm not opposed to your method, I've tried it, just don't see much difference. In difficult light I'm going manual anyway.
@@stevengower7396 you are sacrificing the creative element of shutter speed chasing iso which is largely irrelevant in terms of the look and feel of the photo. Ideally you should be setting aperture and shutter speed to dictate the creative look of the photo, and whether you choose to set iso manually or let it float in auto is a personal decision.
@@scotttuckerphotography of course, that's what I am doing. I get that adjusting ISO until desired SS seems a little backward. But years of not trusting cams to do it is hard muscle memory to retrain.
@ Seriously though, I often shoot film and digital at the same time, and sometimes set my Fuji to my film speed. That way I can match the settings between my cameras. Low ISO/ASA still gives the best results on both film and APSC cameras if there is enough light.
@ I’ve found even ISO 3200 is perfectly fine on the new 40mp Fuji sensors, not so much on the older ones. Lower is always better, but an appropriate ceiling makes it easy mode.
I had come to a similar conclusion when pairing my shots from the Zf with modern day noise reduction software and haven’t looked back on iso since setting the dial to auto iso. There have only been 1 or 2 shots that I wasn’t happy with and that was more to do with the quality and lack of light, rather than the noise performance.
It’s incredibly nice not to have to even think about juggling iso values.
@@from.memories 100%! I’m all for anything that gets the hardware out of my way.
I have three main reasons that I still use manual ISO, 1) I'm an amateur, will have to nail the triangle in my head.
2) I have a wish that I'll be able to shoot film in the future, if it's still existing then.
3) When I tried manual mode with auto ISO on, I found that every photo I shot have the same light level, it made the dawn light and the dusk look the same perfectly lit, which not my intention, I want the light level in the scene reflect the time of shooting like early morning, late, afternoon, evening, have different light level, and I don't want to adjust them in post.
But yeah, everyone can do any way they want, no rules basically. Thank you for the video.
You’re definitely right about certain situations benefiting from setting it, like dusk or dawn. Depending on your film camera you could still meter in a priority mode as well, but always better to learn full manual first. Thanks for stopping by.
Im relatively new to photography (just for a hobby) and have been using auto iso really and i agree with you, i use a fuji camera and the compensation exposure dials are always helpful to when im not happy with what iso the camera is choosing
@@SergioMnl funny enough, I’m the most annoyed with Fuji’s implementation of it 🤣 it still works as intended and is really nice to have.
@@scotttuckerphotography it's the only implementation i know so i can't comment on other brands, but that's the beauty and excitement of the camera world, there's so many implementations to try and discuss about (albeit the pricey process of doing so)
As a public transport photographer, I learnt many year ago auto ISO was my friend, when I could set my shutter speed and react to any shoot in a split second, concentrating on the situation and not constantly worrying about my settings.
@@rbweston more time composing, less time fiddling = way more keepers!
Great perspective. Everyone wants you to chase the latest and greatest of which I am guilty, but you hit it on the head. ISO should be a secondary thought. In fact, when you shoot film, you are confined to whatever your film is. You only adjust shutter and DOF.
@@Jellings71 exactly right about film…it becomes a total afterthought and all you worry about is making sure your bokeh aesthetic and shutter speed are dialed in. Same concept! Glad you liked the video, thanks for popping by.
The newest cameras can handle a ridiculously high ISO with their ridiculously high megapixel sensors. Ny old Nikon D750 does all that I need with ISO set to 12800 max. Auto ISO and manual. The only way to shoot 99% oc the time. 👍👍
@ I’m not going higher than 12,800 on the Z9 and that’s only in emergencies! They do clean up well.
Love the cooking impediment being used to fix audio. Does the job.
"It if works but looks stupid, it's not stupid"
Its funny how some folks use to point out that (put camera name here) has .01 stops less dynamic range than Nikon or Sony or vice versa. Everybody pointed to the photons to photos dynamic range charts and the battle enraged on many forums about this and now we toss it all away with auto iso. If I absolutely need that shot I will sacrifice dynamic range with ISO but otherwise I dont want my fancy new $8k camera to have less dynamic range than a camera built 15 years ago like the Canon 7D as an example. Can others chime in on how they feel about dynamic range due to auto iso. I do use auto iso for video but for photos I pay close attention when using auto iso. For birding some dark days I have no choice and have to accept ISO 3200 but I would rather lower it to 1600 - shoot under exposed and push the gain up in post. The image detail does disappear at higher ISOs thats a fact. Incidentally I just traded in my Canon R6mk2 for a Nikon ZF - first time shooting Nikon and the iso settings are driving me up the wall :)
There is so much to unpack with this question.
1) People misuse the entire point of what DR is and how it's measured. Let's say you have a scene that is pushing 12 stops...guess what? Almost no camera, not even one with 13 stops, is going to give you a good photo of it. Now, will the 13 camera resolve shadows just a teensy bit better than a camera with 12 in that scenario? Sure.
2) These cameras today, even if they have the same DR on paper as a 7D, render noise and tonal transitions better. You can't just compare the numbers.
3) As said in the video, ISO 3200 on a modern camera far surpasses the same ISO value on an older camera, so you have to test your camera and find the highest ISO you're comfortable with.
The only way you're squeezing every drop of DR out of your camera is to shoot at base ISO. It's a rare day to be blessed with good enough light with the appropriate subject to be able to do that. I just stopped caring about maximizing every drop of IQ and focus on trying to capture moments with the best settings I can for that moment of light.
I'm not sure how it really saves time unless your comparison is full manual. If I set aperture and SS while letting camera do ISO vs. setting aperture and ISO and let camera do SS, isn't that the same number of steps? I most often shoot aperture priority and adjust ISO while watching SS to make sure its fast enough.
@@stevengower7396 you aren’t controlling a crucial setting in those modes unlike manual with auto ISO.
@scotttuckerphotography if I'm raising ISO until the shutter speed is acceptable, how is that not the same as raising the shutter speed and ignoring ISO. I'm not opposed to your method, I've tried it, just don't see much difference. In difficult light I'm going manual anyway.
@@stevengower7396 you are sacrificing the creative element of shutter speed chasing iso which is largely irrelevant in terms of the look and feel of the photo. Ideally you should be setting aperture and shutter speed to dictate the creative look of the photo, and whether you choose to set iso manually or let it float in auto is a personal decision.
@@scotttuckerphotography of course, that's what I am doing. I get that adjusting ISO until desired SS seems a little backward. But years of not trusting cams to do it is hard muscle memory to retrain.
How do I set auto ISO on my Canon A1? Do I need to buy different film? 😉
@@jwbarsby just buy one of those drop in digital sensor conversion kits!
@ Seriously though, I often shoot film and digital at the same time, and sometimes set my Fuji to my film speed. That way I can match the settings between my cameras. Low ISO/ASA still gives the best results on both film and APSC cameras if there is enough light.
@ I’ve found even ISO 3200 is perfectly fine on the new 40mp Fuji sensors, not so much on the older ones. Lower is always better, but an appropriate ceiling makes it easy mode.