As always, great restauration ... pity you didn't show a short test print after replacing the dry ink ribbon ... maybe once you complete the larger project.
Good thing you noticed the flat flex issue, otherwise you'd be in for a lot of trouble down the road... At least now if it fails, you'll know what failed.
printer nightmare, a servo motor and a resistor using a heat sink, switch with built-in fuse (Same stuck on the casing ) and the broken flex ,all that in a small casing, good job cat
Amazing restoration, as all the other ones !! About the power switch, it looks like a thermo actuated circuit breaker, if it’s the case, it will auto reset after cooling down.
Interesting thought... It would be the first thermal based switch without a bimetal construction I come across. I still wouldn't want to try it though :D
@@atkelar Oh, I wouldn’t try it either 😁 In the video, the metallic contact strips looked like bimetal, but I might be wrong, it wouldn’t be the first time 😂
Interesting! I think I've seen similar ones before, but I can't recall exactly where. Pretty sure I didn't ever have an Onkyo receiver open... I have one for my home cinema installation, but that is working well and shall not be opened for fun (yet) 😜 It might be a series made by a specific manufacturer that was either cheap or had specific quality properties.
At 8:04 and 9:39 was that a wire resistor with a heat sink? I never saw a heat sink used on a resistor before, although I saw some resistors with placement for screws to do that. Also the transformer seems to have a ferrite core, I also never saw that on a line transformer;I imagine it is intended to reduce weight. I would put a fast fuse with slightly less current spec in series with the weird power switch. I love needle printers, at that time printer ink was not more expensive than gold.
Yes, that was a power resistor in a sleeve that bolts to the heat sink. First time that I see that combination myself, although I have come across other solutions to add resistors to heat sinks. While the transformer looks like ferrite, I'm not really sure it is; it is quite heavy. Might be some sort of sheets and paint? I didn't have a reason to poke at it :)
Thanks! That's a detail I only realized during the final stages of editing; hence the lack of commentary. I wrapped a piece of wire around the perf board and the connector, since I don't trust the copper to withstand any mechanical stress. That wire is soldered to the connector and tight thorugh the perf board. That way it hold the two together. Of course each connector needs its own wire, and the insulation tape has to go on the backside too for that reason.
As always a commending amount of effort put into the restoration, pity about that flat ribbon, I absolutely can relate to it, I recently fixed a P2 Laptop CD-Rom drive which failed in both cracked gears and broken ribbon cable to the laser assembly and my ribbon was broken at the contact end, oh boy and it even change width directly after it, in a miracle I managed to make a sad working connection and it works again, but as always how long can cracked repaired delrim gears and flat ribbons work like that anyway? age can really take the best out of most stuff
With lasers, the additional problem is that they age poorly even without the surrounding support giving up. I hope your drive holds up as long as possible!
I have the M1009, very similar to this one. It won’t advance the platen, the stepper motor is rotating and the cogs are not sheered, they all connect together correctly but it won’t turn when the line feed button is pressed, the platen dial will rotate manually, very easily, so I can’t figure out what the issue is. Any ideas?
Found your channel from Curious Marc… Fantastic, a super smart cat and a pretty good trained helper to do the work!😊
Welcome! And thanks! I'll do my best to keep the videos rolling!
As always, great restauration ... pity you didn't show a short test print after replacing the dry ink ribbon ... maybe once you complete the larger project.
I thought the printout on stage and in the rotating view might be enough. But I sure can add actual printing in the next video!
If I was ever shipwrecked on a deserted island, I'd want Atkelar at my side.
Good thing you noticed the flat flex issue, otherwise you'd be in for a lot of trouble down the road... At least now if it fails, you'll know what failed.
It was quite obvious; These ribbons don't age well at all. I might try to make a replacement, if it fails.
printer nightmare, a servo motor and a resistor using a heat sink, switch with built-in fuse (Same stuck on the casing ) and the broken flex ,all that in a small casing, good job cat
Amazing restoration, as all the other ones !! About the power switch, it looks like a thermo actuated circuit breaker, if it’s the case, it will auto reset after cooling down.
Interesting thought... It would be the first thermal based switch without a bimetal construction I come across. I still wouldn't want to try it though :D
@@atkelar Oh, I wouldn’t try it either 😁 In the video, the metallic contact strips looked like bimetal, but I might be wrong, it wouldn’t be the first time 😂
Very interesting type of toroidal power transformer inside. I've seen similar ones inside early 2000's Onkyo receivers.
Interesting! I think I've seen similar ones before, but I can't recall exactly where. Pretty sure I didn't ever have an Onkyo receiver open... I have one for my home cinema installation, but that is working well and shall not be opened for fun (yet) 😜 It might be a series made by a specific manufacturer that was either cheap or had specific quality properties.
At 8:04 and 9:39 was that a wire resistor with a heat sink? I never saw a heat sink used on a resistor before, although I saw some resistors with placement for screws to do that. Also the transformer seems to have a ferrite core, I also never saw that on a line transformer;I imagine it is intended to reduce weight. I would put a fast fuse with slightly less current spec in series with the weird power switch. I love needle printers, at that time printer ink was not more expensive than gold.
Yes, that was a power resistor in a sleeve that bolts to the heat sink. First time that I see that combination myself, although I have come across other solutions to add resistors to heat sinks.
While the transformer looks like ferrite, I'm not really sure it is; it is quite heavy. Might be some sort of sheets and paint? I didn't have a reason to poke at it :)
Very thorough restoration!
Could you elaborate on the strain relief remark on that line filter thingy adapter you've made? Thanks!
Thanks!
That's a detail I only realized during the final stages of editing; hence the lack of commentary. I wrapped a piece of wire around the perf board and the connector, since I don't trust the copper to withstand any mechanical stress. That wire is soldered to the connector and tight thorugh the perf board. That way it hold the two together. Of course each connector needs its own wire, and the insulation tape has to go on the backside too for that reason.
@@atkelar ah, I see now! I agree, you could easily rip it off without additional support. Very clever!
As always a commending amount of effort put into the restoration, pity about that flat ribbon, I absolutely can relate to it, I recently fixed a P2 Laptop CD-Rom drive which failed in both cracked gears and broken ribbon cable to the laser assembly and my ribbon was broken at the contact end, oh boy and it even change width directly after it, in a miracle I managed to make a sad working connection and it works again, but as always how long can cracked repaired delrim gears and flat ribbons work like that anyway? age can really take the best out of most stuff
With lasers, the additional problem is that they age poorly even without the surrounding support giving up. I hope your drive holds up as long as possible!
@@atkelar yes let’s hope so :)
I have the M1009, very similar to this one. It won’t advance the platen, the stepper motor is rotating and the cogs are not sheered, they all connect together correctly but it won’t turn when the line feed button is pressed, the platen dial will rotate manually, very easily, so I can’t figure out what the issue is. Any ideas?
Maybe a gear is slipping? they are just pressed on to the axle IIRC...? These gears also tend to "crack" and loose the grip.