You have to change the ledger plates on either end. And get the double hold down on the end That will stop clogging at the end. It will change the way that cuts.you got to pull it out to keep em sharp daily. Just trying to help. Lots of time on one of those.good channel
If you are just changing the knives you can unbolt the bar with one bolt on the drive and slide the whole knife bar out the other side. It is a whole lot easier to knock out the old bolts. It only takes me about hour to change the blades on mine.
Thanks so much! Going to be working on mine to get ready for this season. Did you have any issues with the rock guards needing to be "adjusted", i.e., "whacked" to raise/lower them so that the blade would sit flush on top of the bottom surface of the guard, and make good contact in order to achieve a proper "scissor cut" contact with the guard?
Thanks for watching! My rock guards were in decent shape so I didn’t need to do any banging on them. The end of the scissor bar needed some love but nothing major. A torch could be handy for big adjustments, a little heat goes a long way.
Thanks so much for the 'heads-up' on Webb Cutting Components-working on a BEFCO Sickle that is 'challenging'.
You have to change the ledger plates on either end. And get the double hold down on the end
That will stop clogging at the end. It will change the way that cuts.you got to pull it out to keep em sharp daily. Just trying to help. Lots of time on one of those.good channel
Thank you!
Interesting video. Thanks
Thanks for watching!
If you are just changing the knives you can unbolt the bar with one bolt on the drive and slide the whole knife bar out the other side. It is a whole lot easier to knock out the old bolts. It only takes me about hour to change the blades on mine.
You ought to do a video of your cub in the background and how you like it
That cub is sweet!
How did the bigger serrations do for the Bahia? A noticeable difference?
👍
Thanks so much! Going to be working on mine to get ready for this season. Did you have any issues with the rock guards needing to be "adjusted", i.e., "whacked" to raise/lower them so that the blade would sit flush on top of the bottom surface of the guard, and make good contact in order to achieve a proper "scissor cut" contact with the guard?
Thanks for watching! My rock guards were in decent shape so I didn’t need to do any banging on them. The end of the scissor bar needed some love but nothing major. A torch could be handy for big adjustments, a little heat goes a long way.