Shaker Media Cabinet, Part VI (Shaker Cabinet doors with the Festool CMS Router Table)
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- Опубликовано: 13 окт 2024
- In this episode, we continue our media cabinet build and create the Shaker style doors for it. I demonstrate the use and setup of the Festool CMS router table, in building a simple, yet elegant flat panel cherry door. The CMS's sliding table is a huge asset to cabinet door making.
Thanks for your educational videos! I'm sorry I can't call you by name. In Part VI, I noticed a hinged, drop-leaf board with holes like a Festool MDF top. I would like to see how this works and how you made it. Thanks for helping me. Mark Hays
You make a comment about "undoing the switch, otherwise, the spindle won't ratchet". Didn't really comprehend what you meant about that comment. Could you clarify?
I know it’s a bit late but......with Festool you must disengage the start button on the router to enable the ratchet system to be used when removing the bit.
It’s a safety feature.When loosening the bit,disengage the start button.Re-engage the start button after installing the new bit and tightening the collet.😃
love your vids, one thing though is I was taught not to glue the panels as the different types of wood expand at different rates, are you experiencing any problems with them ?
Hello Doug, what you were taught was likely regarding solid wood panels. Plywood movement is negligible, especially for a panel that small. This is one of the reasons it's good to work with for case construction and cabinets. On super large pieces it might be a consideration but definitely not here.
In the case of this door style, it's fine to glue it. I typically don't mind either way as long as the fit is tight enough that it does not rattle (you would know on your dry assembly). The panel might pick up some glue when it's being slid into the final assembly, and that is OK.
One thing to keep in mind is that a glued interface between the solid wood rails/stiles and the plywood panel does inhibit the movement of the tiny solid wood lip that overhangs the center panel. In general, you don't want to restrict solid wood from movement, but in small pieces (the overhang is 1/4" to 1/2" tops) this is considered acceptable. We do it all the time- case in point being the cross grain intersection of a face frame, or a mortise and tenon joint. This is way smaller. Even though those inherently restrict the cross grain movement of solid wood, the amount that those would have actually moved is small enough that it's nothing to lose sleep over.
I would be more concerned with the glue squeeze out at the seams- which could make some problems down the road when you are finishing the piece.
All that is to say that when working with a plywood center panel, glue or not, your call. If the fit is dead on and there's no room for movement, you basically glued it in place. Solid wood center? Never, ever glue it in place! Hope this helps!
Nice videos. How do you like the CMS-VL being attached to the mft?
If you had sent your stiles and rails back through with the opposite side against the fence it would have insured that the groove was in the center and you would not have had to make two different passes on the tongues of your rails.
where did you get that router fence?
can I use the tounge and groove method for glass panel?
whiteboidevin
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