nice job man. my set up is in a 2009 Maxima. not much room. I have to put my amp and batteries between the box and back seat. the way you ran the power to the Lto's from the distribution blocks, well I didn't know u could do it like that. I may do the distribution block idea. I have the big 4 done, all dual 0 gauge. when I grounded the battery and engine to frame I also ran a wire to the body. my car is unibody. I did that cause my back ground is in the metal behind the back seat. toughest metal I could find. seats are also bolted to it. it reads 0.0 ohm's resistance on the DM. I use a JL audio ground lug. sorry to leave such a long comment. at full tilt my voltage stays around 14.4 from 14.8
That's me man, my back gets to hurting so bad bending over all that stuff. I'm pushing 40yrs old and got scoliosis in my back so it sucks to not beable to do what I love. I use the crane at work to get my Xv3's and box out cuz its over 250lbs lol. Getting old sucks!
I have an 05 scion tc that im in the middle of building a system in right now too i put kilmat everywhere and i meticulously went through the car and found anything that might rattle or make noise and silenced it.......a xs d3400 under the hood a jp23 for 2 alpine type r 12's in a sealed box and a jp84 for 4 DB sylvester 6.5's and 2 skar tweeters one 4 awg run from batt to the jp84 and dual inputs on the jp23 power and ground.....its coming along slowly but surely.....i really like the accuracy and tight bass of the alpine type r's but i would like to get subs that have the same accuracy and sound but handle more power and get louder without compromising accuracy.....im also considering getting different 6.5 the sylvesters are good but they have no low end.......im also considering adding a high output alt and possibly a lto 6.0.....by the way i also have that same precision pittsburg screwdriver kit.....dig the videos✌ My setup doesnt look nearly as nice as yours tho you did a good job making it look clean
Awesome build, I been debating on which 1/0 ofc amp kit to go with. Been looking at gp car audio wire but is any other 1/0 ofc wire jus as good. My system is jus 2k system
Really great looking build. Only suggestion i might make is the those d4s lto's, the terminals are really close to each other maybe if there is a way to cover them or put something in between just to make sure no arcs of power between them😎
Not a concern…. The 2 positives are Next to each other and the 2 negatives are next to each other. So if they do touch, which they won’t because they are bracket mounted solid in place, they won’t short out.
So why are you able to get away with grounding the entire system to two points when you have 4 points that need grounding? Again asking just so that I can understand. Actually, I probably should explain... As on my earlier post on the other video, I'm running 240 amp alt, 60 ah AGM under the hood, and 100 ah AGM in the rear for 410 amps total. 2/0 from front to rear. I'm planning on running 4 CT sounds tropo 10" on a Taramps 3k to see how it does. Later planning on upgrading to 4 DC level 3 10's on Taramps 6k if that comes out ok. Based on what I'm seeing, I should've gone straight to the level 3 10s and an 8k from the jump. The box is 4.6 net anyway. Any feedback you can offer?
It’s all about current/amperage draw. 2 runs of 1/0 can more than handle my setup, how it’s possible is through the use of distribution blocks. Don’t dip more than .1-.2 volts at full tilt. Ever. Pretty sweeet
Because it’s all connected anyway. I have solid runs from battery going to engine block. Alternator is obviously directly grounded to engine block via mount. And needed to run grounds on that side of car because could not fit 4 runs of 1/0 on that side of car and did not want unnecessary length of cable winding it around. Plus the alternator has a dedicated negative stud mount.
Anything will catch fire if people don’t know what they are doing. For as many people complaining about them catching their shit on fire, there are just as many happy Bassheads running them without issues. Proper input voltage, electrical, ohm load, i will have zero issues. My numbers are unreal!!!! Video coming next week
Yes, amp hooked up at distribution block is fed by front battery and alt and the rear battery. If amp was hooked to only rear battery say voltage goes down it will limit current flow
Yes, the doors on these cars are insane. They have 3 stage components with a separate mid bass, mid range and tweeter. Amplified, and a factory oem pioneer touch screen head unit.
@@NextLevelCarAudio ok cool. When is it needed? The distribution block looks so clean. I have 3 amps running from my d4s lto and was thinking of getting another.
Honestly, if the runs to amp are not going through and pinch points, metal, areas of movement, or anything that will increase the chance of wire being shorted. Then not needed. Some People do to play it “safe”. But honestly unnecessary
I’m going to do a full walkthrough and demo video once it’s all together and I’ll go over that specifically :) but I wanted to keep it under $5k. Which I did. Est somewhere between 4-5k. The 2 subs which I’m still waiting on were $2200 and that’s just the subs! Pair of DC audio level 5’s
Very good job on your installation!! Looks better than many installation I seen on RUclips.
8:12. I love just how much fun you have. And that's why I watch you my guy. Love your videos
Lol. Thanks for the support man
For a person that’s not a shop you install is clean anded professional great job.
Thanks man!
Wow I really gotta redo my system lmao. This is top notch man. I'm once again inspired by your work. Can't wait to see the subs
Thanks! Hell yeah!
Man ... That is a clean setup, and really nice use of the wheel well. I'm thinking about doing that in my Grand Cherokee.
Heck yeah! Thanks
That is the cleanest I’ve ever seen places around where I live need to wire like this 👍
Thanks man. Much appreciated.
I’m extremely happy for you man. Soon I’ll be on the next level of car audio
Hell yeah
damn, it looks so nice and clean. so well thought out, everything fit perfectly
Thanks!
Looks super clean. I have been thinking about doing some kind of new hatch floor. I may have to steal that anti sliding design
Awesome! Works great :)
Nice, clean, and simple! Awesome job 👍👍
Thanks!
Awesome video, everything looks so good.
Thanks! Much appreciated
I am redoing my 2008 scion tc stereo that I put in about 6 years ago.
I love it man great job! Level 5's too.. you're numbers are going to be great 👍
Awesome!
Watched the series of videos....awesome work bud...lovely build and very nice execution.....everything is super clean 👌 👏
Thanks! Appreciate you supporting my channel. More to come!
Deck power front end and 8k sub bass? That’s gonna sound…nice.
nice job man. my set up is in a 2009 Maxima. not much room. I have to put my amp and batteries between the box and back seat. the way you ran the power to the Lto's from the distribution blocks, well I didn't know u could do it like that. I may do the distribution block idea. I have the big 4 done, all dual 0 gauge. when I grounded the battery and engine to frame I also ran a wire to the body. my car is unibody. I did that cause my back ground is in the metal behind the back seat. toughest metal I could find. seats are also bolted to it. it reads 0.0 ohm's resistance on the DM. I use a JL audio ground lug. sorry to leave such a long comment. at full tilt my voltage stays around 14.4 from 14.8
Nice!
Damn this set up too clean
That's me man, my back gets to hurting so bad bending over all that stuff. I'm pushing 40yrs old and got scoliosis in my back so it sucks to not beable to do what I love. I use the crane at work to get my Xv3's and box out cuz its over 250lbs lol. Getting old sucks!
Yep lol.
I have an 05 scion tc that im in the middle of building a system in right now too i put kilmat everywhere and i meticulously went through the car and found anything that might rattle or make noise and silenced it.......a xs d3400 under the hood a jp23 for 2 alpine type r 12's in a sealed box and a jp84 for 4 DB sylvester 6.5's and 2 skar tweeters one 4 awg run from batt to the jp84 and dual inputs on the jp23 power and ground.....its coming along slowly but surely.....i really like the accuracy and tight bass of the alpine type r's but i would like to get subs that have the same accuracy and sound but handle more power and get louder without compromising accuracy.....im also considering getting different 6.5 the sylvesters are good but they have no low end.......im also considering adding a high output alt and possibly a lto 6.0.....by the way i also have that same precision pittsburg screwdriver kit.....dig the videos✌
My setup doesnt look nearly as nice as yours tho you did a good job making it look clean
Awesome setup man! Thanks for the feedback!
Nice work my friend hello here from Puerto Rico
Thank you!
Awesome build, I been debating on which 1/0 ofc amp kit to go with. Been looking at gp car audio wire but is any other 1/0 ofc wire jus as good. My system is jus 2k system
You should be fine. That’s not crazy power levels
Really great looking build. Only suggestion i might make is the those d4s lto's, the terminals are really close to each other maybe if there is a way to cover them or put something in between just to make sure no arcs of power between them😎
Not a concern…. The 2 positives are Next to each other and the 2 negatives are next to each other. So if they do touch, which they won’t because they are bracket mounted solid in place, they won’t short out.
@@NextLevelCarAudio good to know. Thanks and cant wait for the next vid awesome vid
Love this setup! How did you mount the LTOs?
I think the fans are a good idea but you might need some elbows on them pointing away from each other, they may recirculate the air they’re moving
I’ve moved them around about 5 times already trying to find the best circulation/performance. Just wait till my final walkthrough video.
Looks clean asf
Thanks man!
@NextLevelCarAudio naw you really did that I wish you was local so you could help me out 🥲
Damn look so great... I need to add some fans as well,, hopefully soon, cuz I'm installing a mid size system with 3 amps, 3 batteries etc etc..
Makes a big difference in temps for sure
Is it better to run your power from battery or alternator all the way to the back ? Or its the same
Looks good. I hope the amp lives a while but let us know if it doesn't. I haven't had good luck with sfb amps
Been great so far
I like 👍 Godspeed ✌.
DJ BYRDMAN
Thanks
Noticed the 2 lto have no fuse before or after the distribution blocks .... I see the 2 powers from up front do . Reason for this thanks in advance.
There are fuses in the rear. One of my videos of the build show it. Sorry. Should have went over everything so people know
@NextLevelCarAudio do you still have this system, if so can we get an update on the 6.0 lto’s?
Still going strong. No issues whatsoever :)
It's crazy how much power those small lithium batteries can support. What's the voltage ratings on them?
10 volt minimum, 14.4 volt max. I have a review video coming out on them soon :)
So why are you able to get away with grounding the entire system to two points when you have 4 points that need grounding? Again asking just so that I can understand.
Actually, I probably should explain...
As on my earlier post on the other video, I'm running 240 amp alt, 60 ah AGM under the hood, and 100 ah AGM in the rear for 410 amps total. 2/0 from front to rear. I'm planning on running 4 CT sounds tropo 10" on a Taramps 3k to see how it does. Later planning on upgrading to 4 DC level 3 10's on Taramps 6k if that comes out ok. Based on what I'm seeing, I should've gone straight to the level 3 10s and an 8k from the jump. The box is 4.6 net anyway.
Any feedback you can offer?
It’s all about current/amperage draw. 2 runs of 1/0 can more than handle my setup, how it’s possible is through the use of distribution blocks. Don’t dip more than .1-.2 volts at full tilt. Ever. Pretty sweeet
@@NextLevelCarAudio so you're saying that I can do the same with what I outlined above? I'm running 2/0 ground as well.
Sounds like to me you will be just fine :)
Any reason you brought your two grounds from the engine block and alternators instead of battery.
Because it’s all connected anyway. I have solid runs from battery going to engine block. Alternator is obviously directly grounded to engine block via mount. And needed to run grounds on that side of car because could not fit 4 runs of 1/0 on that side of car and did not want unnecessary length of cable winding it around. Plus the alternator has a dedicated negative stud mount.
@@NextLevelCarAudio oh okay I see. I was just asking in case you did it because it improved performance in a way.
Not really, was just easier for my situation. But just as effective.
looking clean af my man!
Thanks!
Them sfb will catch 🔥seen it twice and had some also
Amazing job tho
I want to see some numbers
Anything will catch fire if people don’t know what they are doing. For as many people complaining about them catching their shit on fire, there are just as many happy Bassheads running them without issues. Proper input voltage, electrical, ohm load, i will have zero issues. My numbers are unreal!!!! Video coming next week
Nice and Clean!!!!!
Thanks!
Is there a difference between connecting the amp to the distribution block as opposed to directly off of the lithium banks?
Yes, amp hooked up at distribution block is fed by front battery and alt and the rear battery. If amp was hooked to only rear battery say voltage goes down it will limit current flow
My only change would have the fans much further apart from each other.
what is the name of those distribution blocks? I seen there d4s but I couldn't find them on the website
That’s strange. Maybe they stopped making them. They are pretty legit tho. Just searched for D4S distribution blocks and they were there.
Great install 💯
Thanks!
Super clean
Thanks :)
Sweet!,,, it looks good/clean!! 😁😁 But what if you blow a fuse? 🤔
Box slides easily onto folded down back seats and secondary access panel can be removed to rewire, change fuses, etc.
Literally takes a than 30 seconds and panel is off to access
@@NextLevelCarAudio 👍Understood! Can't wait to see what it sounds like 😁💪🔊
Not sure how secure that box would be when driving over bumps, risk of crushing the fans would be my only concern. Otherwise, flawless install 🤙🏾
Been perfectly fine so far. It is locked solid into place with the rear seats and the bracket I mounted to keep it from sliding.
Where did you buy your amp fans. I need some for my amps . You know class ab amps hot
You can find them on Amazon. Search for 3” bilge fan. They also have 4”
@@NextLevelCarAudio I've found them on eBay with the 4 inch fan twin pack for 16.99. I had to get them
Nice find!
What did you use to mount the lto 6 down?
Just pressure mounted with L brackets screwed to the base board.
How many cubic feet is that box after displacement
2.87 total net. Box is 3.25 subs are .19 disp each.
Did you do anything to your suspension to handle all the weight?
I did not…. Hoping it holds. So far so good.
Great build . Do u use DSP ? Greetings from the Caribbean.
Not in this Build. Just doing this one as a daily ground pounder.
Clean set up I'm sure it's gonna baaaang
Thanks!
Clean build, did you use a isolator between your XS battery and D4S LTO?
Nope. These D4S LTO’s specifically don’t require them.
Looking good bro 🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
Thanks!
Very clean
Thanks!
Wow love it. Are you running factory mods and highs
Yes, the doors on these cars are insane. They have 3 stage components with a separate mid bass, mid range and tweeter. Amplified, and a factory oem pioneer touch screen head unit.
Look's very nice
Thanks!
Looks awesome
Thanks
Good job
no mids and highs?
Not yet. Very happy with the factory setup honestly.
Did you fuse you amp?
Nope, not needed in my setup. Fused front battery before firewall and rear battery bank before distribution block.
@@NextLevelCarAudio ok cool. When is it needed? The distribution block looks so clean. I have 3 amps running from my d4s lto and was thinking of getting another.
Honestly, if the runs to amp are not going through and pinch points, metal, areas of movement, or anything that will increase the chance of wire being shorted. Then not needed. Some People do to play it “safe”. But honestly unnecessary
@@NextLevelCarAudio thanks man for the info.
The fans where can I find them
3” inline bilge fans on Amazon
Exelent 👍
Clean
Thanks!
@@NextLevelCarAudio Thanks for the Equalizer Vid in the past. I still use that concept for my tuning.
Awesome!
Total cost for the whole system?
I’m going to do a full walkthrough and demo video once it’s all together and I’ll go over that specifically :) but I wanted to keep it under $5k. Which I did. Est somewhere between 4-5k. The 2 subs which I’m still waiting on were $2200 and that’s just the subs! Pair of DC audio level 5’s
With the subs in that box ain't moving
I just hope my factory rear suspension can handle it lol.
Bro... 👊
It’s coming along lol.
Ey links battery please