Stop buying parts! Here's how to properly test your Harley-Davidson’s charging system
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- Опубликовано: 5 окт 2024
- Are you experiencing charging issues with your motorcycle? Don't worry, we've got you covered. Hi, I'm Seth from Throttle Addiction, and in this video we discuss how to test your motorcycle's entire charging system to diagnose any issues you may be having. We recently picked up a 2004 Sportster the previous owner claimed had an issue with the stator. Instead of throwing components at the issue, we developed a cheat sheet to help you test the battery, stator, and regulator in the right order. This testing method let's you cut straight to the root of the problem and purchase only the parts you need. Charging issues are one of the most common complaints we see in our service shop, but with our guide, you can easily diagnose and fix the problem yourself. Watch our How-To video to learn how to test your motorcycle's charging system step-by-step, using affordable tools.
Printable PDF of Charging System test sheet: www.throttlead...
Shop Parts and Accessories at www.throttlead... 
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Watch 3 other videos and too much talking, not enough diagnostics. I love your checklist. It's easy to follow. Didn't even mind the plug-ins. Thank you for posting this.
Good tutorial. A half century of ridin HDs and yet I didn't know the right specs and steps to take. I needed answers, and you provided them, and consequently, my friend's Sporty is diagnosed! Thanks.
3:14
Excellent video, brother. No endless talking, no bullshit. Straight to the point! Thank you!
Im impressed. Best thought out and executed video on this, period. Cheat sheet was an excellent idea as well. New Canadian subscriber. Hopefully i dont need to watch many more of your videos but if i do...I know where to look anyway 😂 Much appreciated!
OUTSTANDING video! Thanks for the sheet!
Excellent and clear information! The check-off list is a fantastic idea. Thanks!
Wow great video. I'm having the exact same problem you described. I'm going to walk through all these steps this weekend. Thanks a lot!
Helped me diagnose my charging issue. Thanks
Couldn't make a better video. Great job.
Thank you, got this very problem and will check tomorrow.
Great video. Thanks for sharing and for the diagnostic sheet!
Right, that is spot on for keeping track, loved that about this clip
Spot-on easy to follow. Thanks.
So instead of "out of limits" ie .0L it's better to say "open line" or just "open" to me if you told me it was "out if limits" it would've failed....but I guess that is the aircraft mechanic in me lol....otherwise a very detailed and systematic video!
I caught that too ;) I learned ‘open loop’ in my electronics program.
Excellent video though.
These values work for an HD FLHTK 2013. great video. Thanks for sharing.
Best instructions ever. Thank you so much.
Awesome video, very clear. I appreciate the diode test, the book has you test the regulator differently. I'm having an issue where the bike isn't charging, I get ~12.8VDC at idle. Everything checks out per your testing. Only anomaly is the regulator (and other grounds) show 0Ω with ignition off, and ~24Ω with ignition on... which is very mysterious. Anyone else ever run across an issue like this?
Very good video!!!! I was able to check my 2021 ultra limited without any problems.
Great video I can fix my dyna now I already added a few parts it’ll be great but I’m sure some wasn’t necessary 😅 thank you!
Your videos are very informative! Probably a dumb question but if my ac output 1 is at .5dcv but the ac output 2 is at 1.1dcv, that means my regulator is toast right? Been trying to diagnose why my battery won't recharge and my mechanic couldn't find the issue...
This tutorial is just great, thank you!
OL… is actually “open line” meaning no continuity… or in the case of stator coil test to ground, no short.
This video was very helpful, thank you very much!
Ridiculous. If the battery fails the battery test.
You still do the other test to see if a bad voltage regulator or bad stator caused the battery to drain and short out ( dead cell)
A bad regulator or stator can destroy a battery.
If you only replace the battery because it tested bad . Chances are You'll end up in the same position 50 miles down the road. Check for the cause of the dead battery.
Good point definitely eliminate all other issues so you don't keep burning through batteries
My voltage regulator does not read .5
It reads 220 on the diode setting with the leads on the charging wire and either of the stator leads..
I've tested my stator and it's putting out the correct voltage, but the charging system is only putting out 10.2 volts to the battery, regardless of rpm
I passed the regulator tests but the numbers were just a smidge low. I got .480-.495
Will it be an issue if I have all 3 wires cut from the ignition and only have the red and white hooked together? (Green isn’t hooked to anything)
I’m getting 0.48 on the rectifier test, both are equal. No issues to ground etc. is this ok or too low? Battery seems to be getting charged ok when i test at idle but it drains during a ride and will die and have cooked the battery after about 25 miles. Everything else seems fine apart from this test. How close to 0.5v does it have to be?
Yes 0.48 is close enough to be considered a pass. My next guess would be that the regulator rectifier has an intermittent electrical issue. It probably only shows up when it gets hot. At the the end of the video I have some quick instructions for how to test for that: 23:35
Great video. What is the normal output voltage from stator on common scooters like gy6?
Not sure, haven't worked on enough to know. I'd try this guy's video he seems to know more about that motor. Thanks for watching. ruclips.net/video/tLe9jhvKYIM/видео.html
Great video pal 🤜
Great set,💯
Can we check this on 2003 ultra classic
So what was the culprit?
My antigravity 1201 fully charged is reads 14.7 Volts. That changes some of numbers, no? For example, on checklist voltage test your battery read 12.5 v not running and the spec 13.2 -15 DCV while running. How do I account for higher voltage charged AG battery?
Yes that's a good point, the only two tests that would be altered in your situation are the battery fully charged test and the running voltage test. When performing the running test your running voltage should be higher than your resting battery voltage. If your resting battery voltage is at around 13 the running voltage should be 14ish. TL;DR it sounds like your battery is working, and the other tests will have the same spec numbers from the sheet
Everything on my 04 sporty 1200c charging system test good….except my stator output voltage intermittently goes below optimal causing no charge. I can’t find any break in wires hot or cold. Do you recommend changing the stator or keep searching?
Sounds like you found the source of the problem, I'd recommend replacing the stator
Thanks mate, great vlog…just a quick question if I may, when pulling out the plug that houses the Ac pins from the rectifier to the stator the wires pulled out 🥹 ( I know, should have been more careful) I have a old rectifier laying around with the plug & pins, wires ok so I’m thinking of cutting of the plug with a few inches of the wires and joining so I don’t need to buy a new rectifier…does it matter which order the Two AC pin wires from the rectifier join up to wires on the “new” plug (AC pins) that connect to the stator, cheers.
Appreciate the comment, It shouldn't matter which order the AC wires are in when you go to attach the plug to the old rectifier
The rectifier is diodes assembled in a certain series. With capacitors in order to switch ac to dc current.
it only matters on the output side of it.
12vdc + and 12vdc -
If the circuit breaker is wired backwards will it still work?
Yes it should still work, would recommend wiring it in the correct orientation though
Having similar issues in a 2012 FXDWG, but instead of dying while running, it’s only cranking with a jump, and dying after just a couple days sitting. Could it still be the charging systems?
Tough to say, definitely could be the charging system. Start by testing the battery and if everything checks out there move on to the charging system diagnostic tests
I’m having this exact same problem. After buying a new battery it’s doing this.
Awesome video extremely easy to follow. I have a 94 FXR evo that is not charging, i have checked the stator and regulator following yr instructions here. All seems in spec except on AC output /battery charge lead test on regulator i get a reading of .45 DCV its same for both 1 and 2. I cannot find anywhere in my manual a spec range so i dont know if this .45 is to low.
Any thoughts here
.45 seems reasonable especially since it's the same for one and two. I would try the test where you add heat to the regulator and perform the tests again assuming everything else checks out
Thanks for the reply, i tested again but this time i disconnected the regulator from the 30amp circuit breaker this time got .48 for the both, i have also tried testing when it is hot or cold. I still get a pass in all the tests for both stator and regulator. Can it be that the regulator is faulty but tests ok, have you seen this before? @@ThrottleAddictionCo
Hmm can't say I've seen that before. I've never seen a faulty regulator that passed all tests even when changing the temperature. So in my experience your regulator should be ok. You said you checked the regulator and the stator, is it possible it's a bad battery? Otherwise not sure what else I can tell you without seeing the bike in person other than triple check everything by running the tests again @@robertstenang2914
Thanks again for the replies and the great video on testing., yes its strange i even had my eletrician friend around to check my testing still same good results, battery is good. I just bought a new Harley regulator and installed it, now its charging fine . @@ThrottleAddictionCo
i replaced the stator,rectifier,battery,now i keep blowing the 40 amp fuse,am going to the doctor to check my thinking circuit
yes,a good video,i have watched them all,i like this one,thanks
I wish i knew what you know
where are you located?
Our shop is in Eau Claire, Wisconsin
OL on an ohm meter means OPEN LOAD.
Ok
Excellent video!