Thank you so much for your videos! I am so grateful you've taken the time to make them. Your instructions are thorough and very easy to follow. I have a Viking 6460 that has been sitting in my closet for years having been told it was unrepairable. I couldn't bear to throw it away. After finding your videos, it is now up and running and is a joy to use. Thank you, again!
Very interesting to see how you fix these problems. This is too intricate for me to diagnose at my novice non-technical level, but gives me an insight into issues that can arise with my own machine. Very useful videos and I marvel at your expertise and knowledge. Thank you for sharing this knowledge, and documenting it, because we need to preserve knowledge about vintage mechanical sewing machines and how to keep them in operation. You are doing a great service to humanity. You may want to invest in a 3D printer and print out your own plastic parts instead of searching for other used parts that have similar stress fractures on them. Very useful in your vocation.
Often there can be a crack in the black plastic part holding the brass tube rather low. Meaning kind of below the brass tube, So do check that. I have fixed 7-8 of these machines, and they ALL had the same error. But a great video!
I'm so pleased to have come across this! Brilliant description and video. I have a 6460 and wondered where that brass sleeve had come from. I've reinstalled the brass sleeve but it doesn't stay in because the crank slide is broken. Where can I find a new crank slide, apart from on a scrap machine? Please release the Part 2 video on how to re-assemble as soon as possible. G.Ross
Thanks and I'm pleased the video was helpful. I can supply the crank slide and you'll find my email address in the video description. I hope to release part 2 today.
It looks like what you've got there from your donor machine is the improved part, 4114948-01, which is fine- your donor machine already has had the crank and slide replaced. I can tell, because the shaft of the crank that fits into the slide is smooth; it has no bulge and clip groove, which the old crank has. Whoever put it in, for some reason, put part of the old slide onto it. Maybe just for a spacer, to help him align it- but that shouldn't be necessary. In fact, the slide should run as close to the crank flat as possible, without touching it. You should definitely clean off all that grease, and take the part off that the take-up arm attaches to, and clean inside it, run a rag through it with solvent. Those parts are designed to run without lubricant, that just gets sticky. However, Tri-Flow, liquid, a more modern lubricant, is OK. I would use the donor part, in preference to trusting a glue fix... the old slide WILL eventually crack and lose its bushing. Epoxy won't stick to the oil-impregnated bushing. Nice video otherwise. - (retired Viking tech, trained on 6000s)
Can you show me how to take out the upper disc tension disks. I think the spring is compressed as it only clamps the cotton at 9 when i wind the wheel down to adjust the tension it totally releases, so it's all or nothing . Pretty please
Thank you for another fine video! I understand the need to save money, but the idea that a Swedish company would use plastic on a part like this leaves me shaking my head in disbelief.
Thank you for the extremely helpful video. My wife has the Husqvarna 6370 and she is having the same issue. Both the plastic piece and the metal cast piece broke. Any idea where I would be able to find this part. Any helpful input would be appreciated.
Thanks for the video. The counterclockwise screw probably was the demise of many a beginner HV mechanic. I had a donor machine and a free machine that was in much better shape I fixed. The other videos you had filled in the missing info. Both mine were 6570 but one the plastic arm was different and free floated on the other shaft and there was no lock ring. If you know how and could make it a total timing/sync and tune-up one would be nice.
Thank you so much for your videos! I am so grateful you've taken the time to make them. Your instructions are thorough and very easy to follow. I have a Viking 6460 that has been sitting in my closet for years having been told it was unrepairable. I couldn't bear to throw it away. After finding your videos, it is now up and running and is a joy to use. Thank you, again!
Yay!!! Good job. I rescued my 6030 from completely frozen state to smooth operation, too. Thanks to these videos.
Very interesting to see how you fix these problems. This is too intricate for me to diagnose at my novice non-technical level, but gives me an insight into issues that can arise with my own machine. Very useful videos and I marvel at your expertise and knowledge. Thank you for sharing this knowledge, and documenting it, because we need to preserve knowledge about vintage mechanical sewing machines and how to keep them in operation. You are doing a great service to humanity.
You may want to invest in a 3D printer and print out your own plastic parts instead of searching for other used parts that have similar stress fractures on them. Very useful in your vocation.
thanks another great video from you have watched a few .. priceless .....the old counterclockwise screw..... saved me
Fantastic detail and video quality. Thanks. Made the job easy!
Thank you very much, your videos are very useful, thanks to you, I will fix this old sewing machine.🙏
So glad I found you I have recently been gifted a 6440
Often there can be a crack in the black plastic part holding the brass tube rather low. Meaning kind of below the brass tube, So do check that. I have fixed 7-8 of these machines, and they ALL had the same error. But a great video!
I think that is shown in the video. From memory, part 2 shows the repair for that exact fault. It is a very common problem.
I'm so pleased to have come across this! Brilliant description and video. I have a 6460 and wondered where that brass sleeve had come from. I've reinstalled the brass sleeve but it doesn't stay in because the crank slide is broken. Where can I find a new crank slide, apart from on a scrap machine?
Please release the Part 2 video on how to re-assemble as soon as possible. G.Ross
Thanks and I'm pleased the video was helpful. I can supply the crank slide and you'll find my email address in the video description. I hope to release part 2 today.
It looks like what you've got there from your donor machine is the improved part, 4114948-01, which is fine- your donor machine already has had the crank and slide replaced. I can tell, because the shaft of the crank that fits into the slide is smooth; it has no bulge and clip groove, which the old crank has. Whoever put it in, for some reason, put part of the old slide onto it. Maybe just for a spacer, to help him align it- but that shouldn't be necessary. In fact, the slide should run as close to the crank flat as possible, without touching it. You should definitely clean off all that grease, and take the part off that the take-up arm attaches to, and clean inside it, run a rag through it with solvent. Those parts are designed to run without lubricant, that just gets sticky. However, Tri-Flow, liquid, a more modern lubricant, is OK. I would use the donor part, in preference to trusting a glue fix... the old slide WILL eventually crack and lose its bushing. Epoxy won't stick to the oil-impregnated bushing. Nice video otherwise. - (retired Viking tech, trained on 6000s)
Can you show me how to take out the upper disc tension disks. I think the spring is compressed as it only clamps the cotton at 9 when i wind the wheel down to adjust the tension it totally releases, so it's all or nothing . Pretty please
Thank you for another fine video! I understand the need to save money, but the idea that a Swedish company would use plastic on a part like this leaves me shaking my head in disbelief.
Thank you for the extremely helpful video. My wife has the Husqvarna 6370 and she is having the same issue. Both the plastic piece and the metal cast piece broke. Any idea where I would be able to find this part. Any helpful input would be appreciated.
Thanks for the video. The counterclockwise screw probably was the demise of many a beginner HV mechanic. I had a donor machine and a free machine that was in much better shape I fixed. The other videos you had filled in the missing info. Both mine were 6570 but one the plastic arm was different and free floated on the other shaft and there was no lock ring. If you know how and could make it a total timing/sync and tune-up one would be nice.
Thanks. Yes, the reverse thread screws can catch you out.
I wish i knew about the anticlockwise screw. I got it off. Eventually.
I've found that putting the top screw back in will prevent you from breaking the handle by accidentally picking it up without the screw to secure it.
Yes, I do that but just a warning about this potential issue.
Please can you help me how to use the cam
Hi. This is the exact same part that needs replacing on mine. Could you name a source for me to purchase the part please?
Hi. I have the part in stock. You can contact me directly via email. You'll find the address at www.institches.co.nz - Thanks.
Hi
I have a Husqvarna 2000 series sewing machine (also known as 6010 model)
where can I get a service manual for this machine?
thanks Dorian
A year late, but if you still need it try www.manualslib.com/products/Husqvarna-6020-8886589.html
Yea seriously, trying to doing any electronic repair one handed is a huge pain
I am unable to get the reversed screw out. Help?????
use hydraulic brake oil then turn it clockwise 👉👉>>> 🔩⚗️
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