Just finished your tarp cover review. U r good at what u do. Love the math science behind your findings. Didn’t understand much( actually most ) of what u said, but I did understand your final results. Thanks Tim
Great test! In my opinion, it is very interesting that the performance of the unit decreased when you misted the coil and dropped the head pressure a little, but performance increased when you sprayed the coil with a massive amount of water and significantly reduced head pressure. Very interesting
Thanks for all of these tests of shade, and misters. Goes to show that geothermal heat pump or ground source heat pump wins the day. Thing is the cost of installation is so high. Do not know if you could ever recoup the cost, however in extreme temperatures far less work for the unit. Ten years ago when we moved into our home with the mother-in-laws apartment ( I am the mother-in-law ) the AC unit that was to be installed was not installed yet. We live in Camas, WA with Clark County PUD power at a very low rate when compared to the cost of natural gas for heating. I did the math and purchased for $ 5,000.00 installed the largest heat pump we could put on our HAVC system. Wish the unit was on the North side of the home, however it is on the Southeast side shaded by evergreen trees in the morning, and out in the sun in the mid day hours. Thing is it has a cement sidewalk right next to it that gets really hot during the midday.
There’s more of it advantage and extremely hot face like 100+ to 115 where the unit is on the roof or on the sunny side of the building. In the inside heat load is so overwhelming on the evaporator beyond ability of it’s capacity. This is where flowing water or Misters over the condenser really shines and make its biggest difference Day and night comparison on a moderately warm day of 85° just a little difference
I live in california. Hot, dry. I use a plethora of misters that emit a FINE mist, 100% evaporation/ zero mist comes out the top. I don't use very much water, but MY system this way runs about 60% as much as it used to to cool the same. I installed a sail switch so the water only flows when the fan is on. Bottom line, mine works VERY effectively. On 105 degree days my unit was running 100%, now it runs only approx 60% of the time. Huge difference. My water source is soft, so not much calcium to deal with.
I am betting you have done no definitive tests of this number. At least you have not claimed it dropped your power bill by half. It is just not in the cards to make that much of a difference. If where you live is a very hot and dry climate, you will see some benefit in the very hot days. In fact, I would recommend a mister for a very old (over 40 years) unit, as the lifespan for this type of unit is short. GFM
Yea the hospital has a chiller system like that with thousands of gallons pushing through their ac. The amount of refrigerant the system takes is massive. They got two tanks the size of a big 18 wheeler tank underground because they use coal for heat in winters.. got a big boiler they use.. it melted down one year when somebody new saw an alarm going off for a superheat steam valve that stopped working and he hit the over ride which blasted the boiler with cool water and it blew up the entire heating plant.. theres still 7” of steel that melted in the basement. They rebuilt it after.. on same spot.. crazy.. the new place if it goes would kill thousands but its a new system now.. i had to install all the alarms for things. Bunch of ultra loud sirens and visual flashers everywhere.. the sirens are 140db each. Lol.. testing was awesome.. i played some old slayer through em.. whole hospital was raining blood for 45 seconds one day.. lol..
Thanks for another great and informative video! I appreciate your thorough testing! Where do you live that water is so cheap... I want to move there, here in Texas it gets more expensive every year!
That is what I did for my condensing unit. The ambient temperatures where I live have been in the hundreds for the past few week. I also did not have much confidence in misters, so I went to Home Depot and bought a lawn sprinkler the shoots the stream of water back an fourth over the coils. I don't have an Amprobe unfortunately, but I am pretty sure that the steady flow of water spray should help. The sprinkler was about 17.00$ with my military discount so I am happy with that. Not a lot of money, lower the head pressure on the compressor= Win!
Most all window units use a slinger wheel fan on the condenser side. It picks up the condensate and blows it through the coil. The cold water itself can help even in 100% humidity. Reroute your condensate water to drip on the coil. No minerals and use a zinc cathode like on a boat and the corrosion should happen on the zinc.
Just put in a geothermal which accomplishes the same as soaking coil. The coil is run through a loop underground where depending what your under ground temp is, because it does vary by location unlike the myth that's it's always 50F. If you average out your temps all year round that's what underground temp is down about 4-5 feet. If you put a soaker on the top of coil so water runs down that would use negligible water. Attach electric valve and wire to the 24 volt to open valve when compressor runs, you could add a thermistor relay board to activate at temps say above 80F. Longevity of unit for rust and corrosion is a different story.
The amazing performance of water sprinkling could be approached with a ground source system. The water mains are obviously approaching ground temperature.
Seems like the best option would be to have a second optional refrigirent to liquid heat exchanger after the air one, you could either supply that heat exchanger directly with cold water or build a water loop to some heat sink like a pool. I could think of quite a few ways to not waste water, have hot water systems draw all tap water through the AC heat exchanger or draw tap water through it and store it in a large tank to be reused as later on. Failing that you could just install additional water to air radiators that are used in high temperatures. Unlike gas refrigerant adding or modifying water loops are simple.
There's a kit that does just that (uses your pool as a heat sink). The catch is the heat exchanger is titanium (chlorine) which drives up the cost, but if I had a suitable pool I'd definitely want to try it just for "engineering" factor. Only ever found one real-world review on it from some guy who said it "sucks as a pool heater" so I get the impression it's _extremely_ rare. Found it - it's called "Hotspot" ruclips.net/video/J7fB8ul9dZw/видео.html
You could, of course, do that. But the A/C system is not designed to be used that way. You would need controls to limit how much cold air is supplied to keep the head pressure up. GFM
@@grayfurnaceman so here is where I'm confused a Swamp in 120 weather in Vegas can do maybe 85, that will be average temp the ac works in other parts of the country, what's their tolerance for Temps? Do they refill then more or less in Vegas to keep the pressure in between certain numbers VS other places? I'm new to this ac stuff I understand enough to be dangerous
@@vegasromaniac Your numbers are correct as far as they go. The 85 temp is an effective temp to operate an A/C system. Where things go sideways is in the overnight and lower temps. In the desert climates, when the evenings cool off, the heat of the day is still there and cooling is needed. So now, its 85 outside and cooling is needed. The swamp cooler is cooling the air to below 70 and the A/C freezes up because it is below its operating temp. GFM
@@grayfurnaceman Not really worried about saving money. Just want to make my unit work better on the hotter days. A friend of mine added misters a couple years ago because on 90 degree days his unit would run continuously. Since he added them it doesn't. My unit is doing the same thing. As far as calcium, you just need to filter it well. Hope this lets you understand.
Great video. Really surprised that shading the coils didn't do more for cooling, I wonder if it was airflow restriction because of the object (tarp) in the path.
I can see the benifet if you are actually getting evaluation on the coil. You wouldn't use too much water if it was actually drying at a simular rate but the mineral buildup.. scale is hard to clean off and wet coils, polin and whatever else will build up much faster. These need phisical agitation to remove. More than just harsh chemicals and pressure washing than a home owner has access or willingness to perform. You are lucky if you can even get people to rinse them off once a year.
The real solution is for those who have swimming pools... There is a product that uses swimming pool water to cool down coil... Thank you for including the amp draw information. Not quite the last video... lol... now you got a possibility to install a pool and poolwater/refrigerant heat exchanger... It's a plus/plus benefit... you get to 'warm' up your pool water and save energy at the same time. You bring up an excellent idea... cooling water tower... The amp draw reduction is big energy saver. It's all about choices. Again, thanks for doing these experiments! Much much appreciated. I got another question... (oh no! ;)) How about an energy efficiency difference between orifice and TXV?
Exactly.... who knows... never say never and maybe Yourtube community will support you with all these experiements. I know I will keep watching your channel.
What about calcium and other mineral buildup on the coil. I agree that the electrical degradation and rust on the components would greatly reduce the unit life.
Hi Gary, I'd love to see your take on devices that run the hot refrigerant from the compressor thru a heat exchanger plumbed to heat a swimming pool. Seems like free pool heat while simultaneously increasing efficiency of AC!
If the heat exchanger is designed to take the superheat off the hot gas, it will work well. If it uses the pool as a condenser, there are many problems with that. I may do some videos on that. GFM
Thank you for you testing and honesty. Bottom line misters are only small difference in efficiency but legal to use with min water usage? and dumping water is prob very costly to do from a big city, $$$. Would adding a shade to the AC unites also help in combo with the misters, a big more passive?
Legality depends on location. Actually, there was no difference in efficiency. As for the shading, try this video: ruclips.net/video/014DggY8Mfk/видео.html GFM
Well... I am happy you did this. I live in a desert climate, not sure if that will make a difference or not. But if you have to soak the damn thing to make a massive difference... there is no point in doing that.
I don't think you need that much water but you do basically need to soak the coils I think I mentioned it in another video of yours but I just sprayed mine down with a spray bottle and amp draw dropped over 30%
I wanted to try either an evaporative cooler infront of the unit or doing a simi geo thermal setup just burying some lines and having the water run thru like a radiator or something set in front of the unit so when its hot the air should be cooler than the outside temp and when they weather is cold the water and air the ac is seeing should be warmer
@grayfurnaceman I'd like to do some more testing on air temperature vs power consumption because just spraying the coils with a spray bottle I have seen a drop od like 30%,40% so I mean if I'm drawing even 20% less it adds up
@grayfurnaceman ya I mean definitely more water than your mister because I'm talking about actually wetting the coils but I have a network energy monitoring on but by spraying down the coil the power goes from about 1800 watts to about 1200 watts thats even with the water being hot from the hose sitting in the sun but I do have a smaller portable evaporative cooler and have been pointing it at it and it uses 75 watts and drops the usage of the ac 150 so about 75 net watts saved I'm not saying it's worth buying one but it helps and all this is in Central Texas during the day and over 100° and I may try some misters with better coverage and see
Guess you didn't really watch the videos he said you could save about $25 a year assuming a 5-month cooling season 12 hours per day. So it would take you about 6 years just to pay for the service call before parts etc
I was wondering. How about putting a fan in front of the condensing unit to drop the head pressure a little. I'm not to confident on misters because in our part of the country our water has a lot of calcium in it and I would not want that building up on the coils. Then I wonder if I blow too much air into the coils the gaseous refrigerant may liquify too quickly and slug the compressor. I just cannot find an answer to my question on the internet. Thank You.
The fan will use more power than you will save and it may decrease the efficiency. Manufacturers are in a competition to get the most efficiency with the least amount of cost and increasing the size of the condenser fan is cheap. They would have done it if it made a difference. Don't worry about condensing too fast, the condenser is before the expansion device so it will have no effect on the low side. GFM
@@grayfurnaceman Thank you for the tip. I figured that would be the case with the extra fan. My main goal was to lower the head pressure of the compressor but the engineers who manufactured the unit no doubt factored in the CFM's the fan would put out to be effective in all temperatures. Just a thought.
So I believe what’s happening is that the misters/ water decrease head pressure lowering overall system pressure. So your potentially increasing your cooling capacity, but you need to increase refrigerant charge to keep evap pressure up to optimal level. or change the metering flow. Which would be a biatch
When I got into this business in 1977, I had ideas about how I could make refrigeration systems more efficient. One by one, I tried them all and the result was pretty much zero. In the 1990s, A/C condensing units increased their condenser size in an attempt to increase efficiency. In 10 years, the condensers were much smaller, but the efficiency was higher. That's engineering. As a tech I have recognized I am not equipped to do better than a good engineer. Your ideas may seem logical to you (not to me). But the changes you make in charge or expansion device will not make a positive difference. Things like refrigerant balance and superheat and subcool will throw you a curve. Not trying to beat you up, but there are no easy solutions. GFM
What's not mentioned here is those of us that live in desert climates with 110 plus and low humidity we use swamp.coolers and water on ac coils drops the output temp by 25 degrees here in California
Somewhat confused here. A swamp cooler can have a delta T by 20 to 25 degreesF. But what has that to do with misting of the condenser of an A/C unit? Are you saying you can drop delta T of the indoor coil by 25 degreesF? GFM
Soaking the coils is far more efficient than cooling the air a bit. A water cooled ice maker will make a LOT more ice faster than an air cooled one. TXV will regulate the refrigerant flow regardless of the head pressure (to a degree). Misters are there to drop the head pressure. No mention of outside ambient air temperature.
You may be able to reduce compression ratio with soaking of the condenser. Effectively, you have an evaporative condenser. Probably the worst type of condenser. Consider the damage to the condenser from the water evaporation. A water cooled condenser is a different issue. Water cooled ice maker units do not make more ice, they make the amount of ice they are designed to make. The biggest problem with water cooled units is that they are illegal in most jurisdictions due to excessive water use. From the tests I performed, head was dropped slightly, but it had no effect on deltaT of the indoor coil. Modern A/C units are designed to operate in high ambient temps and often will react negatively if you artificially affect head pressure, you may find, as I found, that not only the does the deltaT not increase, but changing head pressure actually decreased deltaT. GFM
@@grayfurnaceman If water cooling is illegal as you say then misters are illegal as well. The idea is not necessarily to make it blow colder. It is to reduce amp draw of the compressor first, then subcool the refrigerant. Most A/C's have TXV's so you probably would not notice much of a cool down from the vent - UNLESS - the condensing unit cannot keep up with the demand. TXV would be open as much as it could be. Hot liquid refrigerant may boil faster but the heat absorbed would be less. I think the term is latent heat of evaporation but can't remember. What is more effective in cooling a house is keeping the roof wet.
I have a simple mind w a simple solution. What would happen if u place some type of heat barrier over the ac unit (without disturbing air flow around unit t) to decrease the overall temperature thank tim for your work on part 1-4
Actually you want the mist on the coils because if the mist evaporates before it hits the coils you have lost the cooling effect of the latent heat used for the phase transition from liquid to gas.This like a condensing unit on a high efficiency furnace only there you are retrieving the heat when the gas turns to liquid..
The design theory of this system is to evaporate and cool the air coming thru the coil. That would get the same cooling effect as latent heat because the air is cooled. Evaporating the water from the coil leaves minerals from the water on the coil. In operation, both happens. Humidity in the outdoor air determines how much is evaporated. In any case, the value of this system is very low. GFM
Using rough math the sprinklers saved 700 watts/day assuming 10-11 hours. With reduced coil temp it's going to run 10% less. In MI 2 .14 electric I'd save just over $1/day or around $200/yr. I'd agree that on cost savings alone it's not worth it if nothing else water cost. If you had an undersized AC unit, it'd be worth it just to have a cool house for a day I suppose. I don't understand all the fear about destroying the coil. Do you shield your condenser from rain water? Seems a possible solution would be placing the unit above a pan that collected the water, using a solar powered pump and adding water as it evaporated. This would reduce water/pump costs. Lot of hoking around tho when you could just buy a higher seer AC unit.
Actually condensers are protected from rain. The 2 issues with water are water from domestic supplies have dissolved calcium that deposits on the coil. Pure water is quite corrosive. The idea of recycling the water is far worse because the calcium increases its concentration with the evaporation of the water from the coil. Your last sentence gives the solution that works best. GFM
But how much of that head pressure/amp drop is coming from the fact that the water is 60-65 deg? I'm guessing yours is 60-65 deg because you mentioned "we have tons of it" which means you're probably in a climate where ground temp at the depth of the city pipes is 60 deg, even in the middle of the summer?
A mister uses about a half gallon of water per hour. I consider that very little water usage. I never heard of a municipality not allowing a water cooling system. I live in the desert in Southern California and our government does nothing intrusive/restrictive like that even during our severe droughts. Maybe your location is more environmentally strict than California. If it really saves that much electricity and provides more comfort then I'm OK with wasting a few gallons of water a day.
I used to live in Lancaster Ca. Are you near there? We actually have an abundance of water here in Eastern Wa. The problem is the misting does little to help. GFM
Everyone is missing the obvious, at least for 2 story homes and houses with the ac in the crawl space above. The water dripping off the evap coil is very cold. Run an insulated pvc pipe from your evap coil to your condenser. Your evap coil is producing super cold water that can cool your condenser coil. Harness it. Insulate the PVC well so it stays cold. No need to use expensive city water when your ac unit is already producing cold water.
Depending on the local humidity and unit size, you will produce one half gallon to five gallons per hour. The temperature of the water is about 45 degrees F. That would be a max of 340 to 3400 BTUs per hour. Assuming you could actually reduce usage time or power draw (which this series shows you can't), that would be 1% to 10%. No help there. GFM
I have the best idea EVER!!!!!!! Un-braze the condensing coil from the cabinet. Extend compressor discharge line and liquid line from cabinet to your pool (or neighbor's). THEN Install condensing coil at the middle-bottom of said pool! This method also completely eliminates the need for the condenser fan! Bingo Bango less energy is consumed. Bonus pool heater as well? $$$$ I'm going to be rich!!!!!!!!!!!!! $$$$
Here's a brief overview from This Old House: ruclips.net/video/J7fB8ul9dZw/видео.html no normal I don't think of This Old House as being cutting edge innovative, but they seem to be ahead with this.
Sorry, its been tried. Early in my career, (1982) I worked for a company that installed such a system. These things were the biggest service problem I ever had to deal with. After several years, I was the only one they would send on these things as they were such a problem. A compressor graveyard. I may do some videos on this type of system. GFM
I have a ton of water and want to replace the air condenser with a water cooled condenser. Are you aware of a company that sells just the heat exchanger for such an operation?
I'm not sure what your point is? From my testing, car AC's do tend to work better in hot weather when the condenser is wet, often dramatically better. That's not very relevant to home AC's though because cars have much smaller condensers per BTU of capacity than home AC's do, so there's much more to be gained from improving its efficiency. To put it in perspective, on a warm day, it's very common to see 250-275+ PSI high side pressure on an R134a automotive system, which corresponds to a condensing temperature of ~146-154 degrees F. That condensing temperature would correspond to about 580-640 PSI on an R410a system, which we don't see unless there's a major malfunction.
Man I'm confused. One site loves misters another says they ruin fins............some people say they used them for 8 years no problem put cleaner on once year gets rid of calcium. You make sense they don't. They make sense............
What you should be looking at is "how much can you save" vs water usage and cleaning up the mess. Unless you have a unit made in 1975, there is very little in savings. My numbers are about 7%. When someone tells you they saved 20%, 30% 50%, they are either lying or just clueless. Most times they are saying their utility bill went down some percentage. Your utility bill is for your entire energy usage. Not your A/C. There are far too many variables to use the bill as a measure of A/C usage. GFM
I worked for a company that did that with heat pumps. In fact, I became the go to guy to get them to work. I was a pretty tough job and the units ate compressors like candy. GFM
Kinda a goofy way to test. Why didn’t you just kill the non-hvac breakers, log the electricity meter, wait for ac to turn off, drop the temperature set point, wait for ac to get to new set point and shut off, check wattage used, raise set point back to normal, wait for temperature to get back to set point, kick on mister, drop set point again, wait for ac to get to set point and shut off, check wattage used. Then you know the electricity cost reduction. Also, the mister systems only run when the compressor is running, and only use like a few gallons of water a day.
Far too inaccurate. The meter is not designed for that level of accuracy. The smallest dial is 10 kw. Trying to get the same BTU load between 2 tests is impossible. Sun load changes by the hour. The set point of the thermostat will never be accurate enough. GFM
grayfurnaceman Yes I have watched the entire series, and you do it wrong in every single video. It is called Evaporative Cooling. You’re trying to disprove Evaporative Cooling, which is already well studied by actual science. Evaporative Cooling is used regularly to assist HVAC units in an industrial setting. I know, because that is part of what I do. Your video series is meant to prove or disprove that Evaporative Cooling has an effect on efficiency of residential HVAC units, yet you don’t even measure, nor attempt to measure, the efficiency. The efficiency is BTU’s removed over kw. If you aren’t testing that, then you aren’t testing anything. You measure by setting a standard for BTUs removed, as I previously described, and use near identical ambient conditions, while maintaining a log of the specifics, and measure kw’s. You can either buy a simple instrument to record the kw’s to very small scales, or utilize a smart meter. You then plot the results of a large sample pool of this to see the results. And if that seems like too much work, well then you could just accept that these studies have been done countless times and the results are that yes, yes Evaporative Cooling does work.
@@JeremyB8419 We could argue endlessly on how to determine BTUs moved. Evaporative is used in cooling towers in a system designed for this type of cooling. The use of water sprayed on a condenser designed to be dry is not the same. The reduction of head pressure will reduce the capacity of a system in a fixed orifice system, and sometimes will do the same in a TXV controlled system. This is not to mention the damage to the condenser from the evaporating water. GFM
YOU DID NOT TEST THE INDOOR SPLIT INSIDE THE HOUSE TO SEE WHAT THE DIFFERENCE IS INSIDE MISTER VS NO MISTER, AND YES, YEARS AGO, IT WAS ALLOWED TO USE WATER TO COOL THE A/C, IT WAS TAKEN OUT OF THE GROUND AND PUT BACK IN THE GROUND, BUT NOT ANYMORE, TO MUCH CHANCE OF CONTINATION GOING INTO THE GROUND AGAIN, YOU DID NOT TEST THE INDOOR AIR DROP WITH THE MISTER,
You're absolutely right. Where I live, sometimes the water bill is higher than the electric bill. Just a leaky flapper in a toilet once cost me $132. Let me tell you, I pretty much panicked and went thru my whole house looking for a tiny leak, but I checked the toilets first. The one that was leaking you could BARELY see any movement in the bowl, it was just a tiny trickle. Something like those misters would use WAY more water than a toilet with a tiny leak (tank would take an hour or two before the fill valve would run, and top off the tank). Spraying water on the coils with 2 sprinklers like that here would cost hundred of dollars or more of water in a month. It's about $60 for 4000 gallons of water here a month, which for 2 people isn't much usage. That toilet used an extra 9000 gallons that month btw. Just FYI.
LOL you must be a salesman with that BS slinging! I've got 4 dripping faucets here and they round up to 1k gals every month. 9k gals extra from a super slow leaking toilet pshh... whatever.
No surprise it didn't work at 33% humidity, and 82F. That's low enough temperature for the condenser to be operating right at it's optimum efficiency. So a pointless, incompetent test.
People the thing doesn’t reduce the electricity of the a/c, it reduces the time of running it. What saves money and use of the unit. If the amp wend down or the vol the engine will not turn Stop being ignorant
@@grayfurnaceman if in a normal cycle the compressor runs 20 minutes and with the water cooler runs 16 minutes. You have a saving of 20%. The electric use is the same, just the time of use is lest. Second law of thermodynamics
@@USAads2023 That would be true if that happened. Because there is no increase in delta T, run time would not be reduced. In fact, using the second law of thermodynamics, you can't even compare run times as the load is constantly changing throughout the day. As for power usage, it does increase with higher head pressure but is by no means a lineal change. In fact it could reduce system efficiency when head pressure is reduced. GFM
So tell me why people using the cooling system saves money, me included, my electric bill past from 180$ in august 2018, to 93$ in august 2019 and august 2020? And I have been using the same electric company
@@USAads2023 Comparing electric bills is an exercise in futility. Do you have the same rate? Has the rate changed in late night rates compared to daytime use? How many people live in the house today compared to 2 years ago? Have you changed your lighting loads? Have the thermostat settings been changed? Have any of the appliances been replaced? Have shade trees changed in size? Has the roof been replaced? Has insulation or windows been replaced? Have you compared degree days to those 2 years ago? These are a few of the variables that can change an electric bill. Also remember, your electric bill covers all usage, not just AC. If you had a dedicated meter for your AC, you could get somewhat closer to an accurate read on usage but even that is not dependable as every day, week, month and year are different. The reason I used very short time periods for my tests is that comparing one hour, one day, one week or one month is inherently inaccurate. During my years as a service tech, one of the worst calls were those that complained of high electric bills. They are just very hard to separate out if the appliances are working properly. In your case, You have indicated a 50% decrease in power usage for your entire house. That would indicate somewhere between 75 and 85% decrease in cooling power usage. That is categorically impossible. GFM
Хобби
You tested every single thing I can think of. Good job!
Part 5, mounting the A/C at the bottom of your pool.
Hahaha
Not even funny: That would solve my other problem which is the pool is always too cold!
@@TerryWysocki ruclips.net/video/J7fB8ul9dZw/видео.html there are heat exchangers that go in pools!
Part 6: condenser inside beer cooler at 7-11.
@@TerryWysocki I mean. You can heat your pool by having the Freon hot line in a coil with a water pump. This is an actual thing.
Thank you, I'm thankful for your video. Even though I've worked in this trade, it's always better for family and friends to hear a second opinion.
Great final episode on the subject.
Just finished your tarp cover review. U r good at what u do. Love the math science behind your findings. Didn’t understand much( actually most ) of what u said, but I did understand your final results. Thanks Tim
Great test! In my opinion, it is very interesting that the performance of the unit decreased when you misted the coil and dropped the head pressure a little, but performance increased when you sprayed the coil with a massive amount of water and significantly reduced head pressure. Very interesting
So what you are saying is that this is an excellent argument for geothermal. Awesome testing, man. Your videos are great.
Thank you for doing a review. I had wondered about this.
Mr your a smart man that knows the business, don't fight the masses
thank you. great informative series
Thanks for all of these tests of shade, and misters. Goes to show that geothermal heat pump or ground source heat pump wins the day. Thing is the cost of installation is so high. Do not know if you could ever recoup the cost, however in extreme temperatures far less work for the unit.
Ten years ago when we moved into our home with the mother-in-laws apartment ( I am the mother-in-law ) the AC unit that was to be installed was not installed yet. We live in Camas, WA with Clark County PUD power at a very low rate when compared to the cost of natural gas for heating. I did the math and purchased for $ 5,000.00 installed the largest heat pump we could put on our HAVC system.
Wish the unit was on the North side of the home, however it is on the Southeast side shaded by evergreen trees in the morning, and out in the sun in the mid day hours. Thing is it has a cement sidewalk right next to it that gets really hot during the midday.
Surprising! Thanks for doing these tests... USO baby! Nice hat. SEMPER FI
Welcome
GFM
Thank you for sharing this info.
There’s more of it advantage and extremely hot face like 100+ to 115 where the unit is on the roof or on the sunny side of the building. In the inside heat load is so overwhelming on the evaporator beyond ability of it’s capacity. This is where flowing water or Misters over the condenser really shines and make its biggest difference Day and night comparison on a moderately warm day of 85° just a little difference
I live in california. Hot, dry. I use a plethora of misters that emit a FINE mist, 100% evaporation/ zero mist comes out the top. I don't use very much water, but MY system this way runs about 60% as much as it used to to cool the same. I installed a sail switch so the water only flows when the fan is on. Bottom line, mine works VERY effectively. On 105 degree days my unit was running 100%, now it runs only approx 60% of the time. Huge difference. My water source is soft, so not much calcium to deal with.
I am betting you have done no definitive tests of this number.
At least you have not claimed it dropped your power bill by half.
It is just not in the cards to make that much of a difference. If where you live is a very hot and dry climate, you will see some benefit in the very hot days. In fact, I would recommend a mister for a very old (over 40 years) unit, as the lifespan for this type of unit is short.
GFM
Just put a water cooled heat exchanger on the compressor discharge and make free hot water as a byproduct of your AC. It's already available.
Yea the hospital has a chiller system like that with thousands of gallons pushing through their ac. The amount of refrigerant the system takes is massive. They got two tanks the size of a big 18 wheeler tank underground because they use coal for heat in winters.. got a big boiler they use.. it melted down one year when somebody new saw an alarm going off for a superheat steam valve that stopped working and he hit the over ride which blasted the boiler with cool water and it blew up the entire heating plant.. theres still 7” of steel that melted in the basement. They rebuilt it after.. on same spot.. crazy.. the new place if it goes would kill thousands but its a new system now.. i had to install all the alarms for things. Bunch of ultra loud sirens and visual flashers everywhere.. the sirens are 140db each. Lol.. testing was awesome.. i played some old slayer through em.. whole hospital was raining blood for 45 seconds one day.. lol..
omg I didn't expect the sprinklers that was unexpected lol!
Put the coil in a ''heat exchanger'' vault tied to your swimming pool.
Thanks for another great and informative video! I appreciate your thorough testing! Where do you live that water is so cheap... I want to move there, here in Texas it gets more expensive every year!
We sit on a massive, fast recharging aquifer. Pretty lucky.
GFM
That is what I did for my condensing unit. The ambient temperatures where I live have been in the hundreds for the past few week. I also did not have much confidence in misters, so I went to Home Depot and bought a lawn sprinkler the shoots the stream of water back an fourth over the coils. I don't have an Amprobe unfortunately, but I am pretty sure that the steady flow of water spray should help. The sprinkler was about 17.00$ with my military discount so I am happy with that. Not a lot of money, lower the head pressure on the compressor= Win!
I will be doing a revisited video on misters that may be of interest.
GFM
Most all window units use a slinger wheel fan on the condenser side. It picks up the condensate and blows it through the coil. The cold water itself can help even in 100% humidity. Reroute your condensate water to drip on the coil. No minerals and use a zinc cathode like on a boat and the corrosion should happen on the zinc.
Awesome, put sprinklers on it LOL. Great idea. Tell them your just watering your lawn.
Just put in a geothermal which accomplishes the same as soaking coil. The coil is run through a loop underground where depending what your under ground temp is, because it does vary by location unlike the myth that's it's always 50F. If you average out your temps all year round that's what underground temp is down about 4-5 feet. If you put a soaker on the top of coil so water runs down that would use negligible water. Attach electric valve and wire to the 24 volt to open valve when compressor runs, you could add a thermistor relay board to activate at temps say above 80F. Longevity of unit for rust and corrosion is a different story.
Do they make an inverter style water-cooled heat pump? I'm trying to find a geothermal unit but can't find the right key words .
all good, thanks ...
The amazing performance of water sprinkling could be approached with a ground source system. The water mains are obviously approaching ground temperature.
"Splish-Splash my condenser was taking bath" :)
Seems like the best option would be to have a second optional refrigirent to liquid heat exchanger after the air one, you could either supply that heat exchanger directly with cold water or build a water loop to some heat sink like a pool. I could think of quite a few ways to not waste water, have hot water systems draw all tap water through the AC heat exchanger or draw tap water through it and store it in a large tank to be reused as later on. Failing that you could just install additional water to air radiators that are used in high temperatures. Unlike gas refrigerant adding or modifying water loops are simple.
There's a kit that does just that (uses your pool as a heat sink). The catch is the heat exchanger is titanium (chlorine) which drives up the cost, but if I had a suitable pool I'd definitely want to try it just for "engineering" factor. Only ever found one real-world review on it from some guy who said it "sucks as a pool heater" so I get the impression it's _extremely_ rare.
Found it - it's called "Hotspot" ruclips.net/video/J7fB8ul9dZw/видео.html
how about a swamp cooling tower around the compressor that feeds cold air on the coils ...
You could, of course, do that. But the A/C system is not designed to be used that way.
You would need controls to limit how much cold air is supplied to keep the head pressure up.
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman so here is where I'm confused a Swamp in 120 weather in Vegas can do maybe 85, that will be average temp the ac works in other parts of the country, what's their tolerance for Temps? Do they refill then more or less in Vegas to keep the pressure in between certain numbers VS other places? I'm new to this ac stuff I understand enough to be dangerous
@@vegasromaniac Your numbers are correct as far as they go. The 85 temp is an effective temp to operate an A/C system.
Where things go sideways is in the overnight and lower temps. In the desert climates, when the evenings cool off, the heat of the day is still there and cooling is needed.
So now, its 85 outside and cooling is needed. The swamp cooler is cooling the air to below 70 and the A/C freezes up because it is below its operating temp.
GFM
I did this to a window pac unit because it couldn't keep up in 100+ days but better solution I just bought a new one 😁
I have a gravity feed spring I've thought about using . Might try it out with a lot more misters.
What part about the fact that misters make no difference did you not understand. Not beating you up, I would just like to know.
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman Not really worried about saving money. Just want to make my unit work better on the hotter days. A friend of mine added misters a couple years ago because on 90 degree days his unit would run continuously. Since he added them it doesn't. My unit is doing the same thing. As far as calcium, you just need to filter it well. Hope this lets you understand.
Great video. Really surprised that shading the coils didn't do more for cooling, I wonder if it was airflow restriction because of the object (tarp) in the path.
Have you looked at the second video? When you look closely, the sq ft exposed to the sun is very small.
GFM
I can see the benifet if you are actually getting evaluation on the coil. You wouldn't use too much water if it was actually drying at a simular rate but the mineral buildup.. scale is hard to clean off and wet coils, polin and whatever else will build up much faster. These need phisical agitation to remove. More than just harsh chemicals and pressure washing than a home owner has access or willingness to perform. You are lucky if you can even get people to rinse them off once a year.
Dang, there is an idea for the future! Maybe there is a way to change the unit to submerge the coils in water.
The real solution is for those who have swimming pools... There is a product that uses swimming pool water to cool down coil... Thank you for including the amp draw information. Not quite the last video... lol... now you got a possibility to install a pool and poolwater/refrigerant heat exchanger... It's a plus/plus benefit... you get to 'warm' up your pool water and save energy at the same time. You bring up an excellent idea... cooling water tower... The amp draw reduction is big energy saver. It's all about choices. Again, thanks for doing these experiments! Much much appreciated.
I got another question... (oh no! ;)) How about an energy efficiency difference between orifice and TXV?
That one is probably above my pay grade. But who knows.
GFM
you'd need a stainless steel heat exchanger, pool water is nasty corrosive and so agrees all the leaking "copper tube/finned" gas/propane heaters.
Exactly.... who knows... never say never and maybe Yourtube community will support you with all these experiements. I know I will keep watching your channel.
I have the exact meter, but I'm planning on getting a fluke as well.
What about calcium and other mineral buildup on the coil. I agree that the electrical degradation and rust on the components would greatly reduce the unit life.
That's the first thing he mentioned at the beginning of part 1.
Hi Gary, I'd love to see your take on devices that run the hot refrigerant from the compressor thru a heat exchanger plumbed to heat a swimming pool. Seems like free pool heat while simultaneously increasing efficiency of AC!
That would be a great way to do 2 things at once. If you are already heating a pool why not dump the heat from the house into it.
If the heat exchanger is designed to take the superheat off the hot gas, it will work well. If it uses the pool as a condenser, there are many problems with that. I may do some videos on that.
GFM
These are readily available, common in FL.
ruclips.net/video/J7fB8ul9dZw/видео.html
Thank you for you testing and honesty. Bottom line misters are only small difference in efficiency but legal to use with min water usage? and dumping water is prob very costly to do from a big city, $$$. Would adding a shade to the AC unites also help in combo with the misters, a big more passive?
Legality depends on location. Actually, there was no difference in efficiency. As for the shading, try this video: ruclips.net/video/014DggY8Mfk/видео.html
GFM
Well... I am happy you did this. I live in a desert climate, not sure if that will make a difference or not. But if you have to soak the damn thing to make a massive difference... there is no point in doing that.
I don't think you need that much water but you do basically need to soak the coils I think I mentioned it in another video of yours but I just sprayed mine down with a spray bottle and amp draw dropped over 30%
I wanted to try either an evaporative cooler infront of the unit or doing a simi geo thermal setup just burying some lines and having the water run thru like a radiator or something set in front of the unit so when its hot the air should be cooler than the outside temp and when they weather is cold the water and air the ac is seeing should be warmer
Sounds like a lot of work for little gain.
GFM
@grayfurnaceman I'd like to do some more testing on air temperature vs power consumption because just spraying the coils with a spray bottle I have seen a drop od like 30%,40% so I mean if I'm drawing even 20% less it adds up
@@james10739 You definitely need to do more tests because those percentages are wildly high.
GFM
@grayfurnaceman ya I mean definitely more water than your mister because I'm talking about actually wetting the coils but I have a network energy monitoring on but by spraying down the coil the power goes from about 1800 watts to about 1200 watts thats even with the water being hot from the hose sitting in the sun but I do have a smaller portable evaporative cooler and have been pointing it at it and it uses 75 watts and drops the usage of the ac 150 so about 75 net watts saved I'm not saying it's worth buying one but it helps and all this is in Central Texas during the day and over 100° and I may try some misters with better coverage and see
Any $ saved can be applied toward early replacement of the outside unit.
Guess you didn't really watch the videos he said you could save about $25 a year assuming a 5-month cooling season 12 hours per day. So it would take you about 6 years just to pay for the service call before parts etc
I was wondering. How about putting a fan in front of the condensing unit to drop the head pressure a little. I'm not to confident on misters because in our part of the country our water has a lot of calcium in it and I would not want that building up on the coils. Then I wonder if I blow too much air into the coils the gaseous refrigerant may liquify too quickly and slug the compressor. I just cannot find an answer to my question on the internet. Thank You.
The fan will use more power than you will save and it may decrease the efficiency. Manufacturers are in a competition to get the most efficiency with the least amount of cost and increasing the size of the condenser fan is cheap. They would have done it if it made a difference.
Don't worry about condensing too fast, the condenser is before the expansion device so it will have no effect on the low side.
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman Thank you for the tip. I figured that would be the case with the extra fan. My main goal was to lower the head pressure of the compressor but the engineers who manufactured the unit no doubt factored in the CFM's the fan would put out to be effective in all temperatures. Just a thought.
we pay $100 per mo for water in AZ ! did you calc water cost ? it IS dry here tho ! avg 38% humidity
Try this one: ruclips.net/video/_Fw71fLnP4w/видео.html
So I believe what’s happening is that the misters/ water decrease head pressure lowering overall system pressure. So your potentially increasing your cooling capacity, but you need to increase refrigerant charge to keep evap pressure up to optimal level. or change the metering flow. Which would be a biatch
When I got into this business in 1977, I had ideas about how I could make refrigeration systems more efficient.
One by one, I tried them all and the result was pretty much zero.
In the 1990s, A/C condensing units increased their condenser size in an attempt to increase efficiency. In 10 years, the condensers were much smaller, but the efficiency was higher.
That's engineering. As a tech I have recognized I am not equipped to do better than a good engineer.
Your ideas may seem logical to you (not to me). But the changes you make in charge or expansion device will not make a positive difference.
Things like refrigerant balance and superheat and subcool will throw you a curve.
Not trying to beat you up, but there are no easy solutions.
GFM
What's not mentioned here is those of us that live in desert climates with 110 plus and low humidity we use swamp.coolers and water on ac coils drops the output temp by 25 degrees here in California
Somewhat confused here. A swamp cooler can have a delta T by 20 to 25 degreesF. But what has that to do with misting of the condenser of an A/C unit? Are you saying you can drop delta T of the indoor coil by 25 degreesF?
GFM
Soaking the coils is far more efficient than cooling the air a bit.
A water cooled ice maker will make a LOT more ice faster than an air cooled one.
TXV will regulate the refrigerant flow regardless of the head pressure (to a degree).
Misters are there to drop the head pressure.
No mention of outside ambient air temperature.
You may be able to reduce compression ratio with soaking of the condenser. Effectively, you have an evaporative condenser. Probably the worst type of condenser. Consider the damage to the condenser from the water evaporation.
A water cooled condenser is a different issue. Water cooled ice maker units do not make more ice, they make the amount of ice they are designed to make.
The biggest problem with water cooled units is that they are illegal in most jurisdictions due to excessive water use.
From the tests I performed, head was dropped slightly, but it had no effect on deltaT of the indoor coil.
Modern A/C units are designed to operate in high ambient temps and often will react negatively if you artificially affect head pressure, you may find, as I found, that not only the does the deltaT not increase, but changing head pressure actually decreased deltaT.
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman If water cooling is illegal as you say then misters are illegal as well.
The idea is not necessarily to make it blow colder. It is to reduce amp draw of the compressor first, then subcool the refrigerant.
Most A/C's have TXV's so you probably would not notice much of a cool down from the vent - UNLESS - the condensing unit cannot keep up with the demand. TXV would be open as much as it could be. Hot liquid refrigerant may boil faster but the heat absorbed would be less. I think the term is latent heat of evaporation but can't remember.
What is more effective in cooling a house is keeping the roof wet.
I have a simple mind w a simple solution. What would happen if u place some type of heat barrier over the ac unit (without disturbing air flow around unit t) to decrease the overall temperature thank tim for your work on part 1-4
Try this one: ruclips.net/video/014DggY8Mfk/видео.html
GFM
Hell ya about time to stop the snake oil
Agreed
GFM
On a TXV system wouldn't this screw with the sub cooling and starve the evap coil of refrigerant?
It could.
GFM
Water is very expensive where I live. How much water do the misters use?
There is a link at the video end to a video on water usage.
GFM
So how do you removing the scaling after trying this experiment yourself? Asking for a friend.
I did not leave it on long enough to get scale. You can try a scale remover, but be sure to clean it completely off.
GFM
I really appreciate the tests u did this is called science 🧪 I cannot thank you much
I pay 42 dollars a month for water. Electric company always telling me to save energy I'll just use more water
It's all fun and games till you lime up your unit !
GrayFurnace
THANKS but
The a/c must operate without
Those water splashes
To me it is my opinion
GrayFurnace
Actually you want the mist on the coils because if the mist evaporates before it hits the coils you have lost the cooling effect of the latent heat used for the phase transition from liquid to gas.This like a condensing unit on a high efficiency furnace only there you are retrieving the heat when the gas turns to liquid..
The design theory of this system is to evaporate and cool the air coming thru the coil. That would get the same cooling effect as latent heat because the air is cooled.
Evaporating the water from the coil leaves minerals from the water on the coil.
In operation, both happens. Humidity in the outdoor air determines how much is evaporated.
In any case, the value of this system is very low.
GFM
33% humidity geez. that is lower than it ever gets where I live... and 85? That isn't hot at all for us!
Using rough math the sprinklers saved 700 watts/day assuming 10-11 hours. With reduced coil temp it's going to run 10% less. In MI 2 .14 electric I'd save just over $1/day or around $200/yr. I'd agree that on cost savings alone it's not worth it if nothing else water cost. If you had an undersized AC unit, it'd be worth it just to have a cool house for a day I suppose.
I don't understand all the fear about destroying the coil. Do you shield your condenser from rain water? Seems a possible solution would be placing the unit above a pan that collected the water, using a solar powered pump and adding water as it evaporated. This would reduce water/pump costs. Lot of hoking around tho when you could just buy a higher seer AC unit.
Actually condensers are protected from rain. The 2 issues with water are water from domestic supplies have dissolved calcium that deposits on the coil. Pure water is quite corrosive. The idea of recycling the water is far worse because the calcium increases its concentration with the evaporation of the water from the coil.
Your last sentence gives the solution that works best.
GFM
I'll run a mister on my condenser on 100 degree days
But how much of that head pressure/amp drop is coming from the fact that the water is 60-65 deg? I'm guessing yours is 60-65 deg because you mentioned "we have tons of it" which means you're probably in a climate where ground temp at the depth of the city pipes is 60 deg, even in the middle of the summer?
You are close. But what is your point?
GFM
A mister uses about a half gallon of water per hour. I consider that very little water usage. I never heard of a municipality not allowing a water cooling system. I live in the desert in Southern California and our government does nothing intrusive/restrictive like that even during our severe droughts. Maybe your location is more environmentally strict than California. If it really saves that much electricity and provides more comfort then I'm OK with wasting a few gallons of water a day.
I used to live in Lancaster Ca. Are you near there?
We actually have an abundance of water here in Eastern Wa. The problem is the misting does little to help.
GFM
Everyone is missing the obvious, at least for 2 story homes and houses with the ac in the crawl space above. The water dripping off the evap coil is very cold. Run an insulated pvc pipe from your evap coil to your condenser. Your evap coil is producing super cold water that can cool your condenser coil. Harness it. Insulate the PVC well so it stays cold. No need to use expensive city water when your ac unit is already producing cold water.
Depending on the local humidity and unit size, you will produce one half gallon to five gallons per hour. The temperature of the water is about 45 degrees F. That would be a max of 340 to 3400 BTUs per hour.
Assuming you could actually reduce usage time or power draw (which this series shows you can't), that would be 1% to 10%. No help there.
GFM
If water usage was the only illegal thing I have done in my life time. I have nothing to worry about 🤣🤣🤣
I have the best idea EVER!!!!!!! Un-braze the condensing coil from the cabinet. Extend compressor discharge line and liquid line from cabinet to your pool (or neighbor's). THEN Install condensing coil at the middle-bottom of said pool! This method also completely eliminates the need for the condenser fan! Bingo Bango less energy is consumed. Bonus pool heater as well? $$$$ I'm going to be rich!!!!!!!!!!!!! $$$$
Here's a brief overview from This Old House: ruclips.net/video/J7fB8ul9dZw/видео.html no normal I don't think of This Old House as being cutting edge innovative, but they seem to be ahead with this.
Hunter Wilson HAHA no way! Damn those SOB's beat me to the punch!
Freddy McIntire Go to a McDonalds and enjoy their AC. It's free. win win
Sorry, its been tried. Early in my career, (1982) I worked for a company that installed such a system. These things were the biggest service problem I ever had to deal with. After several years, I was the only one they would send on these things as they were such a problem. A compressor graveyard. I may do some videos on this type of system.
GFM
nice! hill-billy pool heater and geothermal all in one :)))
I have a ton of water and want to replace the air condenser with a water cooled condenser. Are you aware of a company that sells just the heat exchanger for such an operation?
No practical way to do that. Just buy a water cooled system.
GFM
misting actually gonna show better results if the condenser was in direct sunlight like in florida heat
Spay water on your cars condenser in hot weather it will take freon then .
I'm not sure what your point is? From my testing, car AC's do tend to work better in hot weather when the condenser is wet, often dramatically better. That's not very relevant to home AC's though because cars have much smaller condensers per BTU of capacity than home AC's do, so there's much more to be gained from improving its efficiency.
To put it in perspective, on a warm day, it's very common to see 250-275+ PSI high side pressure on an R134a automotive system, which corresponds to a condensing temperature of ~146-154 degrees F. That condensing temperature would correspond to about 580-640 PSI on an R410a system, which we don't see unless there's a major malfunction.
Yup no worth doing any of that.. just clean ur unit often. That helps alot!
You got it.
GFM
Man I'm confused. One site loves misters another says they ruin fins............some people say they used them for 8 years no problem put cleaner on once year gets rid of calcium. You make sense they don't. They make sense............
What you should be looking at is "how much can you save" vs water usage and cleaning up the mess. Unless you have a unit made in 1975, there is very little in savings. My numbers are about 7%.
When someone tells you they saved 20%, 30% 50%, they are either lying or just clueless.
Most times they are saying their utility bill went down some percentage. Your utility bill is for your entire energy usage. Not your A/C. There are far too many variables to use the bill as a measure of A/C usage.
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman Thank you
You should install it in a pool hahaha
ruclips.net/video/J7fB8ul9dZw/видео.html been done many times
I worked for a company that did that with heat pumps. In fact, I became the go to guy to get them to work. I was a pretty tough job and the units ate compressors like candy.
GFM
Kinda a goofy way to test. Why didn’t you just kill the non-hvac breakers, log the electricity meter, wait for ac to turn off, drop the temperature set point, wait for ac to get to new set point and shut off, check wattage used, raise set point back to normal, wait for temperature to get back to set point, kick on mister, drop set point again, wait for ac to get to set point and shut off, check wattage used. Then you know the electricity cost reduction. Also, the mister systems only run when the compressor is running, and only use like a few gallons of water a day.
Far too inaccurate. The meter is not designed for that level of accuracy. The smallest dial is 10 kw.
Trying to get the same BTU load between 2 tests is impossible. Sun load changes by the hour. The set point of the thermostat will never be accurate enough.
GFM
grayfurnaceman I don’t know what you’re talking about. Your statements are from the premise that the difference would not be overwhelming.
@@JeremyB8419 The difference is not overwhelming. In fact, it is unclear if there is any difference at all. Have you watched the entire series?
GFM
grayfurnaceman Yes I have watched the entire series, and you do it wrong in every single video. It is called Evaporative Cooling. You’re trying to disprove Evaporative Cooling, which is already well studied by actual science. Evaporative Cooling is used regularly to assist HVAC units in an industrial setting. I know, because that is part of what I do. Your video series is meant to prove or disprove that Evaporative Cooling has an effect on efficiency of residential HVAC units, yet you don’t even measure, nor attempt to measure, the efficiency. The efficiency is BTU’s removed over kw. If you aren’t testing that, then you aren’t testing anything. You measure by setting a standard for BTUs removed, as I previously described, and use near identical ambient conditions, while maintaining a log of the specifics, and measure kw’s. You can either buy a simple instrument to record the kw’s to very small scales, or utilize a smart meter. You then plot the results of a large sample pool of this to see the results. And if that seems like too much work, well then you could just accept that these studies have been done countless times and the results are that yes, yes Evaporative Cooling does work.
@@JeremyB8419 We could argue endlessly on how to determine BTUs moved.
Evaporative is used in cooling towers in a system designed for this type of cooling.
The use of water sprayed on a condenser designed to be dry is not the same. The reduction of head pressure will reduce the capacity of a system in a fixed orifice system, and sometimes will do the same in a TXV controlled system.
This is not to mention the damage to the condenser from the evaporating water.
GFM
YOU DID NOT TEST THE INDOOR SPLIT INSIDE THE HOUSE TO SEE WHAT THE DIFFERENCE IS INSIDE MISTER VS NO MISTER, AND YES, YEARS AGO, IT WAS ALLOWED TO USE WATER TO COOL THE A/C, IT WAS TAKEN OUT OF THE GROUND AND PUT BACK IN THE GROUND, BUT NOT ANYMORE, TO MUCH CHANCE OF CONTINATION GOING INTO THE GROUND AGAIN, YOU DID NOT TEST THE INDOOR AIR DROP WITH THE MISTER,
Watch the entire series. starting with part #1.
GFM
You're absolutely right. Where I live, sometimes the water bill is higher than the electric bill. Just a leaky flapper in a toilet once cost me $132. Let me tell you, I pretty much panicked and went thru my whole house looking for a tiny leak, but I checked the toilets first. The one that was leaking you could BARELY see any movement in the bowl, it was just a tiny trickle. Something like those misters would use WAY more water than a toilet with a tiny leak (tank would take an hour or two before the fill valve would run, and top off the tank). Spraying water on the coils with 2 sprinklers like that here would cost hundred of dollars or more of water in a month. It's about $60 for 4000 gallons of water here a month, which for 2 people isn't much usage. That toilet used an extra 9000 gallons that month btw. Just FYI.
LOL you must be a salesman with that BS slinging! I've got 4 dripping faucets here and they round up to 1k gals every month. 9k gals extra from a super slow leaking toilet pshh... whatever.
No surprise it didn't work at 33% humidity, and 82F. That's low enough temperature for the condenser to be operating right at it's optimum efficiency. So a pointless, incompetent test.
People the thing doesn’t reduce the electricity of the a/c, it reduces the time of running it. What saves money and use of the unit.
If the amp wend down or the vol the engine will not turn
Stop being ignorant
If you have watched to total series, you should understand there is no reduction in run time.
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman if in a normal cycle the compressor runs 20 minutes and with the water cooler runs 16 minutes. You have a saving of 20%. The electric use is the same, just the time of use is lest. Second law of thermodynamics
@@USAads2023 That would be true if that happened. Because there is no increase in delta T, run time would not be reduced.
In fact, using the second law of thermodynamics, you can't even compare run times as the load is constantly changing throughout the day.
As for power usage, it does increase with higher head pressure but is by no means a lineal change. In fact it could reduce system efficiency when head pressure is reduced.
GFM
So tell me why people using the cooling system saves money, me included, my electric bill past from 180$ in august 2018, to 93$ in august 2019 and august 2020?
And I have been using the same electric company
@@USAads2023 Comparing electric bills is an exercise in futility. Do you have the same rate? Has the rate changed in late night rates compared to daytime use? How many people live in the house today compared to 2 years ago? Have you changed your lighting loads? Have the thermostat settings been changed? Have any of the appliances been replaced? Have shade trees changed in size? Has the roof been replaced? Has insulation or windows been replaced? Have you compared degree days to those 2 years ago?
These are a few of the variables that can change an electric bill. Also remember, your electric bill covers all usage, not just AC. If you had a dedicated meter for your AC, you could get somewhat closer to an accurate read on usage but even that is not dependable as every day, week, month and year are different.
The reason I used very short time periods for my tests is that comparing one hour, one day, one week or one month is inherently inaccurate.
During my years as a service tech, one of the worst calls were those that complained of high electric bills. They are just very hard to separate out if the appliances are working properly.
In your case, You have indicated a 50% decrease in power usage for your entire house. That would indicate somewhere between 75 and 85% decrease in cooling power usage. That is categorically impossible.
GFM