I was triping while watching the rocker arm move, I haven´t heard of this configuration. Makes so easy to adjust the valves without removing the camshafts. Thank you very much for doing this video, very well explained
Dude, thank you. Just picked up an 07 and need to do this asap. It's the same process for the carb'd model right? Have the manual for actual clearances. Also, you should make a video of you rebuilding the top end :)
What gauge cluster do you have on your bike? I saw on your motovlog #1 you had the stock gauge and now it's changed. I have a 08 TE 450 that needs a new gauge(the plastic casing is disintegrating and I think the next time I ride in the rain it might short out when water gets in) and I like the look of yours.
It's a trailtech Vapor Stealth. My oem cluster stopped working so put this one on. Install pretty simple and you get some more stuff with this then you do with the stock cluster. Plus it's way cheaper then a new oem one.
Hey, quick question. I’ve got a te 450. The head breather pipe in the valve cover keeps leaking, i noticed yours didn’t seem to be leaking. Is there any way to seal it, because i cant find any seals or o-rings for it.
There aren't any seals on it i beleive. Perfectly OK to put a little rtv around it to prevent the leaking, just be careful not to put to much as it can get into the motor!
Thanks for the vid. Got a couple questions. 1. Where did you get that gauge and how was the wiring on it? 2. Do you replace gaskets every time you check valves? 3. How tough was the rebuild process yourself?
1. The gauge is a trailtech vapor stealth. You can order it right on amazon. Just check trail techs website for the proper part number for your bike(mostlyfor the speedo cable/magnet set up. I got one for this bike that plugs into stock speedo wiring.). The wiring was super easy and was mostly plug and play. The most difficult thing was getting the tachometer to read proper rpms but a quick call to trailtechs support line and it was working great. 2. No, no need to replace the valve cover gasket on valve check. They can be reused without issue. 3. The rebuild was not difficult at all. Just need to make sure you have the proper tools(torque wrench is a must have!) And take your time doing it. There are service manuals available online for free to help ya out as well.
Maybe one day I will get around to it. They are super easy to install. The OEM speedo was plug and play to the vapor, the temp sensor literally slides into the radiator fins and the Tach sensor wire is either wrapped around the coil wire to spark plug or use one of the bolts that bolts the coil down.
@@Shelby_909 that's the only downfall with the base vapor stealth. There is no low fuel light, no high beam light and no turn signal lights. Trailtech makes a separate outer shell that has all these feature that you can wire the stock harness to that will give you all these functions but for me it wasnt worth the effort
Great video. I see the cable for the decompression valve lifter is not attached (not even present). My 510 have no cable present as well. Do you sometimes have any starting problems? My bike will often not turn over at the firts try, but when it run, it run perfectly. It sounds like your bike did not turn over at te first try as well? Like to hear your experience.
The decompression cable is attached It was removed in the video in order to remove the valve cover. I very rarely if ever need to use the manual decompression lever to start the bike.
Great video! I have a side question tho' could you please let me know what kind of plastic kit do you run and where did you get one? Thanks in advance!
Thanks for the info I have a problem with my husky, the shim managed to pop right out some how, only just got the bike, the plate that sits on the spring that holds the shim can that be removed without pulling the head as mine has damage so will need to be changed
Unfortunately the head would have to come off as the spring needs to be decompressed to remove the valve keepers to get the cup out. Taking the head off on these bike really isn't to bad. Definitely pull the motor from the frame.
@@quickshiftoutdoors thank you for the quick response, AHH damn I was hoping I could just keep the engine in the bike and just remove the head ??? Wanting as little work as possible really 🤣
@@londonTown1989 removing the engine is relatively quick and easy. Theres only a few bolts. You'll be halfway there if you have the tank and plastics off already lol.
im thinking to buy one 510 what problems they got ? and what should i check before buying.Also that 530 kit is it worth it i hear it makes the bike a beast
Make sure the valves were checked and adjusted regularly along with frequent oil changes with quality oil. I've heard good things about the 530 kit but unfortunately dont have any personal experience with it
I wish it was as easy to do valves on my Kawasaki as my Husky 510! On my Kawi I have to remove the cams and cam-chain and it always makes me uneasy at the first start because I keep second guessing myself if I got the timing right! On my Husky 610 that bike used adjustment screws within the followers instead of shims, but if the lock nuts back off on that it's a catastrophe waiting to happen. This is the best way to do valves!
So if you forget to put that clip back,and then you you try to start it up,can the engine fucked up? Becouse my bike was at the mechanic and he did valves adjustment and after all the engine brake down...
It could. That clip prevents the rocker arm from moving side to side. If that clip isnt there the rocker arm can move causing the valve not to open. Will it damage the engine... idk it's possible. The valve shim could pop out and go somewhere you dont want it to.
Hi, Nice, well detailed videos about that Husky, since you have it for a "longer period", how much is the estimated cost to run the bike? I mean everything added up and divided per hours, or per year. Huskys are known as a really unreliable bike around me, but not sure if it is reality or just a stereotype. Thought of purchasing one, the use would be a hobby supermoto, only in city, no trips. Thanks for your help in advance
It all depends on the mileage of the bike. Basic maintenance is not terribly expensive. Oil change every 500 miles I run motorex 10w-60($70 U.S per 5 liters) and can get 3 changes out of it. A shim kit is like $100 and you can get loads of valve adjusts. When it comes time to rebuild thats when the price gets up there, it ran me about $500 bucks to replace piston, rings, timing chain, timing chain tensioner and all the gaskets. Did the work myself so there was no labor. All in all it is definitely more expensive to run compared to say a DRZ 400SM but its like comparing a high dollar sports car to a Ford Taurus.
@@quickshiftoutdoors Thanks for the quick reply. The 500$ is also not a fraightening amount, compared to the experience. How often are you doing valve adjusts? My last one: how often did you need a large upgrade, by experience?I could google that ofc but I do not relly trust user's mannuals.
I check valves every 1000 miles. They dont always need adjustment but better safe than sorry. As far as rebuild go I rebuilt mine at 8k miles with new top end. Everything looked great and I honestly probably didn't need to do the piston and could have just changed rings but figured I was already in their might as well. The timing chains do stretch so that was the man reason for the rebuild. I know someone who had over 15k miles on his smr450 without any major issues so these bike can last. All comes down to proper basic maintenance with oil, valves, and clean air filters.
hello~ bro. i need you help~! can not buy SMR 510 (2009) camshaft tower cap holder #2 (exhaust cam shaft Spark Plug side) ? i can not find parts number anyway...
I got one recently and im "tuning" it so i havent even gotten to ride it yet. Still im already looking at a 701 and so should you. This is a pure blood race bike, and you should avoid them. They're not meant for daily use and are expensive to maintain. The only good 510's anyway are 2006 and 2007, which have carburetors. The fuel injected models have alot of electrical problems.
@@handlmycck I know that they are pure race bikes and need bunch of attention. Still I don’t want to ride a 701. It’s not that special anymore and als pretty heavy and the paper, even tho I’ve never ridden one. Appreciate your comment. What did you got recently? A 125 or a 510?
@@ludwig6040 2006 510, carburated. Its in nuts and bolts + whole frame powdered awaiting for parts. I did also have a 125 smr 2013 and a wr 125 2004 when i was younger.
@@ludwig6040 Yeah the 510 is gonna be my sunshine. If you do decide to get one try to get a 2007, theyre the latest carburated model. Injection adds a whole new level of electrical problems + you need a powercommander etc. Ive heard theyre pretty unreliable.
Thanks!! I have bought a new husqvarna 510 smr and im having problems wirh the idle. I mean it idle fine but at 1600rpm and it runs fine but when i get to stop and rev bomb the pedestrians it stals🥺 how could I increase the rpm? And also the light of fuel is always on even with the full tank, could it be the fuel sensor of the fuel pump? Thanks a lot!!
What year is your smr ? If its fuel injected there is an idle adjustment screw on right hand side of the throttle body turn that to increase your idle. Stock idle is around 1800rpm. If you have the power up kit I would raise idle to 1900-2000rpm. As far as the tank reading empty, there is a sensor inside the tank on the fuel pump they are notorious for breaking off and either not working or readying empty when they are full. Take off the tank and remove the fuel pump you will see the sensor I am referring to.
@@quickshiftoutdoors Thanks for your answer! sorry for my English, im from Spain! This is an 2008 as yours so it will be very useful your help! tomorrow I will check for the screw, because there is a big one which I move right and doesn't do anything so I guess the isn't the correct one. do I need to take of the throttle case to get access to the screw? And I have already taken the tank and the fuel pump and the only thing I did is to readjust the placement of the pump which is only held by one zip tie and then one of the cables to the sensor was unleaded so I welded on again thinking this will solve the light issue but it keeps doing the same. I will also test tomorrow by welding it again and trying with another cable!
@@victorcmbx751 nope you dont need to remove anything to access the idle screw it's on the right side of the throttle body under the cable cover for the throttle. The black knob on the left side of the throttle body is the enrichment circuit(basically a choke for the fuel injection.) Pulled out it enriches it for cold start and pushed in is for normal operation
@@quickshiftoutdoors well I tried to screw a little more and it finally got a little higher but it still stals. I published a video on my account if you don't mind to check it out it will help me lots. Thanks ruclips.net/video/Kr17qb9QnUA/видео.html
Thanks.... gives me confidence to perhaps one day get inside mine... 👍 Question: Do you discard old shims as possibly worn or do they not really wear down.?
Personally, I save any shims I've removed and measure with a micrometer. I havent noticed any real wear on shims I've removed. Generally, most of the wear is on the valve seat. And dont really see the cam lobes/ rocker arms and shims wear down.
part number? i got a 2007 te450 and i think it’s due for a valve adjustment. is the OD on the shims 10mm. basically just need to know the outer diameter
that works or just a part number please, and awesome vid. Not to many vids on the TE out there and this gives me the confidence todo it myself with ease. knowing how simple it is i’ll be checking every oil change now.
Not to difficult to find parts. Got everything for the rebuild off motosport.com and was here within a week. Only exception being the gasket for stator cover that was on backorder for about a month. Reused the old one until it came in
I rebuilt top end at 8K miles just for piece of mind. Replaced piston, rings, wrist pin, cam chain and tensioner Everything looked great for 8k miles and probably didnt need to be done.
Quickshift Outdoors oh great, and is it really expensive? Mine has 5k miles and im not sure if its worth it to spend a lot of money on rebuilding the engine or just use it a couple of miles more and sell it, what would you recomend me?
Honestly it depends on how well the bike was maintained for those 5k miles if it would justify a rebuild. I rebuilt it myself so I definitely saved money there. If I remember correctly after all said and done it ran me a bit over $500 to replace piston, rings, chain, tensioner and all the gaskets. I also had some other items I replaced so if your just doing top end it might be a little cheaper. Personally, it might be worth tearing into it and checking everything out just for piece of mind. After the rebuild you could always sell it if you want
Quickshift Outdoors oh well i dont know if i will be able to doir by my self😅 but thanks for the info, iguess if someone builds it for me it would be over 1k😕
@@swayzee1989 make sure it's in second gear. It's not going to spin easily at all. I usually rock it forward a few times to find tdc. Also be sure the spark plug is out!
I didnt convert it. This is a factory supermoto from Husqvarna. If your looking for info on doing a conversion on a TE, look at cafehusky, supermotojunkie.com bunch of write ups on those sites.
All non-KTM, non-BMW era supermoto wheels fit on your 07, any Husky wheel dating back from the mid 90s to the late 2000s. If you just want supermoto wheels without the big brakes your going to need is wheels and an extra set of TE rotors and sprockets. If you want to convert to supermoto brakes as well you will need to swap out forks, axles, front rotor and master cylinder as the supermoto uses the much larger 4-piston radial mounted calipers and the fork legs are very different.
Don't know why I watch the video it's because I almost bought a Husqvarna I think it was a 2008 250 awesome looking bike and it was the full out Husqvarna emblems all over the bike awesome looking I didn't see it in person it was on Facebook Marketplace I fell in love with the bike I didn't buy it it was only I think twenty-six hundred bucks and the kid would have met me halfway would have been about 125 miles he would have come from Illinois and I'm from Southern Missouri but that's why I got rid of my KLR! IMe 5.9 in my feet wouldn't touch the ground even with lowering link low-profile seat and sliding my front tubes up about an inch and a half . tired of falling down, it was a big adventure bike with full dress big aluminum pan years everything, heavy for off-road and with a spinal cord injury paralyzed ankles it was hard! I had the bike a couple years ,I met my challenge! but then I sold it and wanted to get something smaller so I ended up buying a 2009 Honda CRF 230 M and I just outfitted it with big rugged Adventure tires. I don't have it home yet! it's in the shop I've been so anxious to get it here I'm going to turn it into a mostly off-road Enduro with homemade rigid saddlebags for Holing my hunting equipment into the woods .I put a bigger sprocket on it in the back from 38 teeth to like 52
So buying a 4 stroke is always a little more risky then a 2 stroke and these require alot of maintenance so if they aren't properly cared for then the engine can blow up but you can always buy one and rebuild the engine right away if your not confident in the seller and then at least you know what you have
I have a SWM RS500R, step brother to your Husky. Same engine. I appreciate your detailed video. Did the valve shim replacment help with starting and flame outs? Or just starting? Thank you
I HAVE TO SAY THAT THIS IS THE BEST TUTORIAL VIDEO THAT I HAVE SEEN IN A WHILE, THANKS!!!!
Awesome video perfectly clear both visually and verbally
I was triping while watching the rocker arm move, I haven´t heard of this configuration. Makes so easy to adjust the valves without removing the camshafts. Thank you very much for doing this video, very well explained
I have an '11 TE 630. Same setup. Very clever and mechanic friendly.
Does the 2004 te450 also have that design?
Is there any service intervals for the camchains on these engines?
Oh, man, that's absolutley perfect video. 👏🏻👏🏻
Dude, thank you. Just picked up an 07 and need to do this asap. It's the same process for the carb'd model right? Have the manual for actual clearances. Also, you should make a video of you rebuilding the top end :)
Yup same for the 07's. I just did the top end and didn't record it wish I would have.
What gauge cluster do you have on your bike? I saw on your motovlog #1 you had the stock gauge and now it's changed. I have a 08 TE 450 that needs a new gauge(the plastic casing is disintegrating and I think the next time I ride in the rain it might short out when water gets in) and I like the look of yours.
It's a trailtech Vapor Stealth. My oem cluster stopped working so put this one on. Install pretty simple and you get some more stuff with this then you do with the stock cluster. Plus it's way cheaper then a new oem one.
@@quickshiftoutdoors thanks. You're right, it's even cheaper than a used oe unit. Plus you get voltage and temp readings. Always good info to know.
Hey, quick question. I’ve got a te 450. The head breather pipe in the valve cover keeps leaking, i noticed yours didn’t seem to be leaking. Is there any way to seal it, because i cant find any seals or o-rings for it.
There aren't any seals on it i beleive. Perfectly OK to put a little rtv around it to prevent the leaking, just be careful not to put to much as it can get into the motor!
Great video, could you tell me what spec battery you use
Thanks for the vid. Got a couple questions.
1. Where did you get that gauge and how was the wiring on it?
2. Do you replace gaskets every time you check valves?
3. How tough was the rebuild process yourself?
1. The gauge is a trailtech vapor stealth. You can order it right on amazon. Just check trail techs website for the proper part number for your bike(mostlyfor the speedo cable/magnet set up. I got one for this bike that plugs into stock speedo wiring.). The wiring was super easy and was mostly plug and play. The most difficult thing was getting the tachometer to read proper rpms but a quick call to trailtechs support line and it was working great.
2. No, no need to replace the valve cover gasket on valve check. They can be reused without issue.
3. The rebuild was not difficult at all. Just need to make sure you have the proper tools(torque wrench is a must have!) And take your time doing it. There are service manuals available online for free to help ya out as well.
Very nice video tutorial. Can you make a installation video for the trailtech cluster?
Maybe one day I will get around to it. They are super easy to install. The OEM speedo was plug and play to the vapor, the temp sensor literally slides into the radiator fins and the Tach sensor wire is either wrapped around the coil wire to spark plug or use one of the bolts that bolts the coil down.
@@quickshiftoutdoors super thanks for the response. And what about the Lights? Like the tank light, engine light... ? Wil they then be digital?
@@Shelby_909 that's the only downfall with the base vapor stealth. There is no low fuel light, no high beam light and no turn signal lights. Trailtech makes a separate outer shell that has all these feature that you can wire the stock harness to that will give you all these functions but for me it wasnt worth the effort
Great video. I see the cable for the decompression valve lifter is not attached (not even present). My 510 have no cable present as well. Do you sometimes have any starting problems? My bike will often not turn over at the firts try, but when it run, it run perfectly. It sounds like your bike did not turn over at te first try as well? Like to hear your experience.
The decompression cable is attached It was removed in the video in order to remove the valve cover. I very rarely if ever need to use the manual decompression lever to start the bike.
Also you can see me removing the cable after all the plastics are taken off.
NM on the 4 bolts holding the top?😇
Great video! I have a side question tho' could you please let me know what kind of plastic kit do you run and where did you get one? Thanks in advance!
Hey nice vid, super helpful. Just wondering what gauge cluster (dash) you have, mine shorted out when I washed my bike and now need a new one.
Never mind lol saw a previous comment about it
It's a trailtech stealth Vapor! Awesome guage for the price
Thanks for the info I have a problem with my husky, the shim managed to pop right out some how, only just got the bike, the plate that sits on the spring that holds the shim can that be removed without pulling the head as mine has damage so will need to be changed
Unfortunately the head would have to come off as the spring needs to be decompressed to remove the valve keepers to get the cup out. Taking the head off on these bike really isn't to bad. Definitely pull the motor from the frame.
@@quickshiftoutdoors thank you for the quick response, AHH damn I was hoping I could just keep the engine in the bike and just remove the head ??? Wanting as little work as possible really 🤣
@@londonTown1989 removing the engine is relatively quick and easy. Theres only a few bolts. You'll be halfway there if you have the tank and plastics off already lol.
@@quickshiftoutdoors AHH ok Ty is the engine pull a must or is just easyer ?
@@londonTown1989 I'm pretty sure it has to come out. I dont think it will clear the frame.
Do you run the original ECU and Software on your SMR? And do you use a Lambda eliminator? Thanks for your Help!
Btw. really good and helpful Video!!!
im thinking to buy one 510 what problems they got ? and what should i check before buying.Also that 530 kit is it worth it i hear it makes the bike a beast
Make sure the valves were checked and adjusted regularly along with frequent oil changes with quality oil. I've heard good things about the 530 kit but unfortunately dont have any personal experience with it
Great video mate and very informative, just a question what diameter are the jotvam shims that you used? Cheers
9.48mm
I wish it was as easy to do valves on my Kawasaki as my Husky 510! On my Kawi I have to remove the cams and cam-chain and it always makes me uneasy at the first start because I keep second guessing myself if I got the timing right! On my Husky 610 that bike used adjustment screws within the followers instead of shims, but if the lock nuts back off on that it's a catastrophe waiting to happen. This is the best way to do valves!
Love the valve train setup on these huskys! Super simple and easy to check!
Which diameter are the shims?
I looked already in the internet but there are many diameters where the shops say that they will fit.
So if you forget to put that clip back,and then you you try to start it up,can the engine fucked up? Becouse my bike was at the mechanic and he did valves adjustment and after all the engine brake down...
It could. That clip prevents the rocker arm from moving side to side. If that clip isnt there the rocker arm can move causing the valve not to open. Will it damage the engine... idk it's possible. The valve shim could pop out and go somewhere you dont want it to.
Hi, Nice, well detailed videos about that Husky, since you have it for a "longer period", how much is the estimated cost to run the bike? I mean everything added up and divided per hours, or per year.
Huskys are known as a really unreliable bike around me, but not sure if it is reality or just a stereotype.
Thought of purchasing one, the use would be a hobby supermoto, only in city, no trips. Thanks for your help in advance
It all depends on the mileage of the bike. Basic maintenance is not terribly expensive. Oil change every 500 miles I run motorex 10w-60($70 U.S per 5 liters) and can get 3 changes out of it. A shim kit is like $100 and you can get loads of valve adjusts. When it comes time to rebuild thats when the price gets up there, it ran me about $500 bucks to replace piston, rings, timing chain, timing chain tensioner and all the gaskets. Did the work myself so there was no labor. All in all it is definitely more expensive to run compared to say a DRZ 400SM but its like comparing a high dollar sports car to a Ford Taurus.
@@quickshiftoutdoors
Thanks for the quick reply. The 500$ is also not a fraightening amount, compared to the experience. How often are you doing valve adjusts? My last one: how often did you need a large upgrade, by experience?I could google that ofc but I do not relly trust user's mannuals.
I check valves every 1000 miles. They dont always need adjustment but better safe than sorry. As far as rebuild go I rebuilt mine at 8k miles with new top end. Everything looked great and I honestly probably didn't need to do the piston and could have just changed rings but figured I was already in their might as well. The timing chains do stretch so that was the man reason for the rebuild. I know someone who had over 15k miles on his smr450 without any major issues so these bike can last. All comes down to proper basic maintenance with oil, valves, and clean air filters.
So I just bought a 08 smr510 and what’s the best maintenance tips I can get.
Frequent oil changes with a quality oil(every 500 miles or so) valve check ever 1K and clean air filter and quality fuel
hello~ bro. i need you help~! can not buy SMR 510 (2009) camshaft tower cap holder #2 (exhaust cam shaft Spark Plug side) ? i can not find parts number anyway...
Great bike! I want to own one too one day when I am old enough. Currently riding a Smr 125. Greetings from Germany
I got one recently and im "tuning" it so i havent even gotten to ride it yet. Still im already looking at a 701 and so should you. This is a pure blood race bike, and you should avoid them. They're not meant for daily use and are expensive to maintain. The only good 510's anyway are 2006 and 2007, which have carburetors. The fuel injected models have alot of electrical problems.
@@handlmycck I know that they are pure race bikes and need bunch of attention. Still I don’t want to ride a 701. It’s not that special anymore and als pretty heavy and the paper, even tho I’ve never ridden one. Appreciate your comment.
What did you got recently? A 125 or a 510?
@@ludwig6040 2006 510, carburated. Its in nuts and bolts + whole frame powdered awaiting for parts. I did also have a 125 smr 2013 and a wr 125 2004 when i was younger.
@@handlmycck sounds pretty sick.
@@ludwig6040 Yeah the 510 is gonna be my sunshine. If you do decide to get one try to get a 2007, theyre the latest carburated model. Injection adds a whole new level of electrical problems + you need a powercommander etc. Ive heard theyre pretty unreliable.
Thanks!! I have bought a new husqvarna 510 smr and im having problems wirh the idle. I mean it idle fine but at 1600rpm and it runs fine but when i get to stop and rev bomb the pedestrians it stals🥺 how could I increase the rpm? And also the light of fuel is always on even with the full tank, could it be the fuel sensor of the fuel pump? Thanks a lot!!
What year is your smr ? If its fuel injected there is an idle adjustment screw on right hand side of the throttle body turn that to increase your idle. Stock idle is around 1800rpm. If you have the power up kit I would raise idle to 1900-2000rpm. As far as the tank reading empty, there is a sensor inside the tank on the fuel pump they are notorious for breaking off and either not working or readying empty when they are full. Take off the tank and remove the fuel pump you will see the sensor I am referring to.
@@quickshiftoutdoors Thanks for your answer! sorry for my English, im from Spain!
This is an 2008 as yours so it will be very useful your help! tomorrow I will check for the screw, because there is a big one which I move right and doesn't do anything so I guess the isn't the correct one. do I need to take of the throttle case to get access to the screw? And I have already taken the tank and the fuel pump and the only thing I did is to readjust the placement of the pump which is only held by one zip tie and then one of the cables to the sensor was unleaded so I welded on again thinking this will solve the light issue but it keeps doing the same. I will also test tomorrow by welding it again and trying with another cable!
@@victorcmbx751 nope you dont need to remove anything to access the idle screw it's on the right side of the throttle body under the cable cover for the throttle. The black knob on the left side of the throttle body is the enrichment circuit(basically a choke for the fuel injection.) Pulled out it enriches it for cold start and pushed in is for normal operation
Quickshift Outdoors thank you!
@@quickshiftoutdoors well I tried to screw a little more and it finally got a little higher but it still stals. I published a video on my account if you don't mind to check it out it will help me lots. Thanks
ruclips.net/video/Kr17qb9QnUA/видео.html
Love the video, well done, whats the diameter of the shims?
Thanks.... gives me confidence to perhaps one day get inside mine... 👍 Question: Do you discard old shims as possibly worn or do they not really wear down.?
Personally, I save any shims I've removed and measure with a micrometer. I havent noticed any real wear on shims I've removed. Generally, most of the wear is on the valve seat. And dont really see the cam lobes/ rocker arms and shims wear down.
@@quickshiftoutdoors gotcha.... thank you buddy. 👍
Where did you get that arrow?
How often do you need to this ?
I check valve lash every other oil change in this bike, about every 1K Miles
part number? i got a 2007 te450 and i think it’s due for a valve adjustment. is the OD on the shims 10mm. basically just need to know the outer diameter
Don't know the OD of the shim to be honest I have the hot cams shim kit. I can probably grab a measurement with the caliper tomorrow and let you know
that works or just a part number please, and awesome vid. Not to many vids on the TE out there and this gives me the confidence todo it myself with ease. knowing how simple it is i’ll be checking every oil change now.
Hey thanks for this nice and informative video, do you still have the 510 and how is she working?
Yup I still have the 510. Bike is still going strong!
@@quickshiftoutdoors that's nice, have you got the ibeat software and do you know some good settings?
You Dont have to remove the rocker arm to replace the shims? Like on the 530exc?
The rocker arm just slides over once the retaining clip is removed. No need to remove it. Pretty sweet design.
Do you have a hard time finding parts? Like top end components, electrical etc.
Not to difficult to find parts. Got everything for the rebuild off motosport.com and was here within a week. Only exception being the gasket for stator cover that was on backorder for about a month. Reused the old one until it came in
How should i go about doing this while the engine is on the table? Is it even possible?
You could turn the motor over would be by pulling the left cover and turning the flywheel over until at top dead center
@@quickshiftoutdoors Thanks for the tip. Maybe if I assemble the clutch and spin the front sprocket with a chain I could avoid buying a new seal.
@@quickshiftoutdoors Also thanks to your video I know exactly what to do. Much appreciated, good guide.
Great fucking tutorial ma man. Now i feel like i could do it easily. Thank you so bloody much man 💪
THANK YOU 🙏🏻 so helpful!
Hey its me again, have you ever needes to rebuild your engine ? And with how many miles? Thanks!!
I rebuilt top end at 8K miles just for piece of mind. Replaced piston, rings, wrist pin, cam chain and tensioner Everything looked great for 8k miles and probably didnt need to be done.
Quickshift Outdoors oh great, and is it really expensive? Mine has 5k miles and im not sure if its worth it to spend a lot of money on rebuilding the engine or just use it a couple of miles more and sell it, what would you recomend me?
Honestly it depends on how well the bike was maintained for those 5k miles if it would justify a rebuild. I rebuilt it myself so I definitely saved money there. If I remember correctly after all said and done it ran me a bit over $500 to replace piston, rings, chain, tensioner and all the gaskets. I also had some other items I replaced so if your just doing top end it might be a little cheaper. Personally, it might be worth tearing into it and checking everything out just for piece of mind. After the rebuild you could always sell it if you want
Quickshift Outdoors oh well i dont know if i will be able to doir by my self😅 but thanks for the info, iguess if someone builds it for me it would be over 1k😕
@@swayzee1989 make sure it's in second gear. It's not going to spin easily at all. I usually rock it forward a few times to find tdc. Also be sure the spark plug is out!
How did you covert to supermoto wheels just bought an 07 te
I didnt convert it. This is a factory supermoto from Husqvarna. If your looking for info on doing a conversion on a TE, look at cafehusky, supermotojunkie.com bunch of write ups on those sites.
Nice and u genuinely love the bike no big maintenance issues??
Nope. No big issues with the bike at all.
All non-KTM, non-BMW era supermoto wheels fit on your 07, any Husky wheel dating back from the mid 90s to the late 2000s. If you just want supermoto wheels without the big brakes your going to need is wheels and an extra set of TE rotors and sprockets. If you want to convert to supermoto brakes as well you will need to swap out forks, axles, front rotor and master cylinder as the supermoto uses the much larger 4-piston radial mounted calipers and the fork legs are very different.
Does this bikes uses 9.48 shims?
grazie, ho fatto il lavoro seguendo le tue indicazioni, mi sono trovato bene nonosante non mastichi bene l'inglese.
Ottimi dettagli
Thank you sir! Good tips
Do the valve cover bolts need to be torqued to anything specific?
Yes I believe it's to 5.4 ft lbs. I usually just hand tighten and then a just a bit tighter with a socket
where did you get that speedometer? tnx
It's a trailtech Vapor stealth. Any reputable online store should have em
Don't know why I watch the video it's because I almost bought a Husqvarna I think it was a 2008 250 awesome looking bike and it was the full out Husqvarna emblems all over the bike awesome looking I didn't see it in person it was on Facebook Marketplace I fell in love with the bike I didn't buy it it was only I think twenty-six hundred bucks and the kid would have met me halfway would have been about 125 miles he would have come from Illinois and I'm from Southern Missouri but that's why I got rid of my KLR! IMe 5.9 in my feet wouldn't touch the ground even with lowering link low-profile seat and sliding my front tubes up about an inch and a half . tired of falling down, it was a big adventure bike with full dress big aluminum pan years everything, heavy for off-road and with a spinal cord injury paralyzed ankles it was hard! I had the bike a couple years ,I met my challenge! but then I sold it and wanted to get something smaller so I ended up buying a 2009 Honda CRF 230 M and I just outfitted it with big rugged Adventure tires. I don't have it home yet! it's in the shop I've been so anxious to get it here I'm going to turn it into a mostly off-road Enduro with homemade rigid saddlebags for Holing my hunting equipment into the woods .I put a bigger sprocket on it in the back from 38 teeth to like 52
What shims are needed? What size kit?
The shim kit I use for my 08 Smr510 is the hotcams HCSHIM02 they are 9.48mm shims. Some years use the 7.48mm shims so I can only confirm for a 2008.
Intake is .004-.006in and exhaust is .006-.008in. Feeler gauges are generally sold in a set at any automotive store and are pretty inexpensive.
Getting my 510 tomorrow hopefully it’s worth it
Oh it will be!
guys is buying an older bike of this sort a huge risk? How's the maintenance on these, and can the engine just blow up?
So buying a 4 stroke is always a little more risky then a 2 stroke and these require alot of maintenance so if they aren't properly cared for then the engine can blow up but you can always buy one and rebuild the engine right away if your not confident in the seller and then at least you know what you have
what speedo is that? I need it.
It's a trailtech vapor stealth
INT 0.10-0.15mm and EXH 0.15-0.20mm
Yes for those not in America lol.
Thanks a lot!!! 🙌✊
Nice job man. 👍
Fantastic!
I have a SWM RS500R, step brother to your Husky. Same engine. I appreciate your detailed video. Did the valve shim replacment help with starting and flame outs? Or just starting? Thank you
nice video thanks!, cool channel, what about new content? cheers
looks like the cam lobes are facing each other not oppisite just saying
Yes, on these bikes they are supposed to face inward toward each other I misspoke lol, didnt catch it until after video was posted.
Hey man I have a swm 125 Supermoto looks like the somebike but you have more power lol
Just a little bit more power lol
Its that easy