Everything Has Gone Wrong! Safe Cracking Robot - Part 3
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- Опубликовано: 31 июл 2024
- I'm continuing work on trying to open my brother-in-law's safe by building a robot. I don't what's inside the safe, but based on all the bad luck I've run into with this project my guess is cursed pirate treasure.
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You’re going to go through all this effort and in the end, the only thing in the safe is going to be the piece of paper with the combination. Then, BIL will suddenly remember he never had a chance to put anything inside before he forgot the combination…
you shouldn't feel disappointed. this is how fulfilling projects go. if it was easy, it wouldn't be fulfilling and everyone would do it.
They don't call it hardware because it's easy
Not even slightly disappointing! Thus is just real-life engineering. Keep up the great work!
This is definitely my favorite RUclips mystery safe series. I've been watching intently with each release.
When you get this all squared away, please put together a kit or PDF of how to build this. I would pay for it. A lot of people in the #locksport community would as well!
a kit would be a mess, as it is somewhat specific to the safe. A PDF, the design files, STL Files, Source code etc. how ever - that sounds great.
Only people that know what they are getting into invest serious money.
People that just want to learn can buy the zip archive, read trough it and decide how far they wanne go.
He does not have to support stupid customer phone calls for abusing the device.
@@sarowie true that!
@@sarowie serious money seems a bit of a reach. This looks like 300 bucks or so?
Just use a closed loop stepper (which is what I thought the original motor was) you do need to make sure the pulse buffer in the motor driver is empty before you command a new move but the driver will either have a simple output to indicate that or you can put in a short delay between moves to allow the buffer to empty.
I could tell that the pressure on the handle was going to be an issue. Pneumatics are nice because you can just give it the maximum force that you are comfortable with (regulated with a pressure regulator), and actuate with that both ways.
Have you ever thought about recording the sound of each combination and make some analysis upon them? If not all combinations maybe only varying certain decimals.
don't give up - solving real problems is actually really hard keep it up!
Don't feel bad. Those safe engineers are feeling the love!
Was there a specific reason why you wrote your own code to read the encoder pulses? This is a standard task so there are already well tested libraries.
You're obviously right, it's pirate treasure.
I think this is a great idea. I once had a combination lock on a locker in my garage I had forgot the combo to and sat there for a few hours a night for 2 weeks and many beers till I finally got it. I would rather use your way.
I am working on a similar project for my safes, but am using a closed loop servo. The other this is that a S&G dial actually locks up when retracted, so no need to test handle until dial is locked.
I'm pretty handicapped when it comes to programming, so it is slow and tedious. I have about 10 different types of safes, so always looking for a better way. Always good seeing someone who is much better, and following their led. Keep up the great work!
That sounds awesome! This safe does not use an S&G dial unfortunately. That would have been much easier. My mock-up safe that I built does however.
I also am working on a version of this, I need to get it for the S & G type that locks the dial. I'm just starting to get parts and trying to decipher the code to take the lever test out. I will keep you in mind if I have any break throughs. :)
Something like the misfit tech servo stepper might simplify things for you. It uses a small magnet glued to the back of the shaft as feedback, and the board bolts straight to the back of the motor. It takes the same step/dir signals as a stepper, has an "error" pin that goes high if thr motor stalls, programable current and microstep increments.
No affiliation, i just use them on the cnc at work and they would replace th whole stack you have on the back of the stepper, plus simplify your code.
I'll look into that, thanks
I was excited to see you get into the safe this time, but now I'm gonna be even more excited when you get it next time! Love the tenacity and hearing about your lessons learned. Great project
Commenting to support the channel and the project.
Oh man! You're SOOOO close! This has been such an awesome project. I know how frustrated you must be, but as a viewer, this has sure been a lot of fun to watch thus far.
I love these clever and creative engineering solutions.
Always design in a diode and fuse to prevent reverse or over voltage damage. Some designs I put a full bridge rectifier for DC input and then input polarity doesn’t matter.
When pennies can save dollars
The servo motor for the handle was a mistake. Use a brushless motor with an encoder.
FOC with torque sensing like the Moteus controller would be nice. Strong enough to open the handle and a moving average of the measured torque will robustly detect if the handle is unable to move. It also has position control, so no limit switch is needed.
@@MACaronyboy that would do it too
@@CoryTaylor904 or just a stronger servo, to avoid springs for balance. Springs are only needed as it has too little torque, and he tries to balance out handle spring. I guess..
@@TheStuartstardust fundamental problem with servo is that the servo will continually try to reach a position and you will not have feedback when it is unable to reach the position. This leads to the servo getting hot. Also servos use a direct gear reduction, you are far better off using a magnetic coupling to limit torque (eg. A brushless motor)
@@CoryTaylor904 Yes that is where a stronger serve is needed and a spring to load handle - if no overload is happening, then it should be ok 🙂
love this video series!
Correction! I was wrong. That safe has a inexpensive lock that isn’t like a normal group 2. Now I get why you have the handle servo. That lock does not have a drive cam to retract the bolt. It is just three wheels, each one with a slot that when aligned allow the main bolt to throw into the aligned wheels. Super cheap!
Original (wrong) comment (but right for an actual S&G or LA guard lock)… You don’t need the complexity of the handle servo. It provides no value. Just go clockwise after your last number 360 degrees. If it rotates a full 360 you have not found the combo. It it torques out that means you have found the combo and it has retracted the bolt.
This dial combination does not work that way unfortunately. That would have been a lot easier.
Most safes with dials that I have used dont work that way.
Yeah that should have been apparent since the wheels have "false gates". False gates are not required on a G2 lock with drive cam since the fence is unreachable in incorrect combo, you can't "tension" the wheels.
In this cheap lock, false gates are required to prevent people from pulling hard on handle and then trying combinations until the wheels stick - without false gates they would have 1 number right, thus they could just try 2 more times.
I’d like to buy the plans to build one of these. Thank you for sharing your work
Great project. My 2penneth would be to use actuators 2-3x what you think is needed and torque limit the output. Use off the shelf parts of course for prototypes. use current limited power supplies. Put fuses in . For quadrature encoders use hardware quadrature counters (esp32 has inbuilt) . build it like its a cnc. You will suceed. Lockpicking takes persistance.
.... ugh I remember coming across the first video of you talking about this. Was hoping you'd solved it. Waiting .... patiently .
Funny, the moment I saw your handle opener that was my first worry, it will scoot right past it.
Ditch the servo and use a solenoid instead. You should be able to get a good strong opening force and better return action. And it shouldn't overheat like that poor servo that's constantly being stalled. I think eventually you will likely strip the servo gears as well.
I love that little enclosure for the microcontroller, looks very neat.
What about using a linear actuator?
Congrats on breaking 100K subs. Ambitious project that I would bet you could make serious money off of if you wanted.
Let the spring do the work on the handle and just use the motor to tension the spring, like some kind of cocking mechanism with a ratchet that can be released like pulling a trigger. A pneumatic actuator might be an option, but do tend to be noisy. Stuff Made Here might be a good collab just to run some ideas by him.
Taking the safe with me, would actually be the first thing i do :D
Handle Servo is a no go. Maybe a rack and pinion?
For wheel #3 you only have to stop the dial at 8 possible positions before trying the handle. You could in fact have the robot dial wheel 1, then wheel 2, and then dial and stop to one of the 8 possible positions on wheel 3 and try the handle at each of them. To find those possible gate positions you can do it manually by parking wheel 1 and 2 and then turning the dial which is mechanically linked to wheel 3 and as you turn the dial apply pressure against the handle and write down every time the handle gets stuck in a false or true gate all the way around. Then to verify these positions and to make sure you had not parked wheel 1 or 2 with one of their false or true gates in alignment with the direct entry fence, turn the dial to pick up all the wheels again and park them 5 numbers higher or lower than the first place you parked them, and then turn the dial again to test the true and false gate positions while pressing on the handle to see if the first time you mapped them matches with this second time around. If they match, then you now have the 8 spots the wheel 3 has to be turned to before trying the handle which should reduce the amount of dialing your dialer has to do to exhaust all possible combinations.
That's exactly what I did. I'm only trying the eight gates for wheel 3. I just learned recently that wheels 1 and 2 also have false gates. Next I'm going to try to figure those out
@@bytesizedengineering imagine if you can reduce the dialing to 8x8x8 combinations?! I will tell you the false gates on wheel 1 and 2 are at the same intervals, but are somewhat differently offset/spaced from wheel 3's false/true gate locations on the dial.
In addition to determining where the deadbolt "starts to slide in" to the gates, you probably also want to determine where the _ends_ of the gates are. That way you don't have to be right on the starting slope of the gates, but you can be well in the middle. Either do the same as what you did going forwards, just going backwards. Or (if this is possible), get the deadbolt into the gate (with almost no pressure) and then see how far you can wiggle the dial back and forth.
With how the starts of the gates are 9, 13, 13, 12, 13, 12, 13 and 15 positions apart, I would suspect that they are equally spaced but different widths. In fact, I woooonnndeeer if that suspicious out-of-sequence gate at pos 12 is the true one. Maybe? If I were you, I would start testing the gates on the 1st and 2nd wheel through that position 12 gate.
Can't win them all! I would of totally gone medieval on it and brought out a cutting torch :P
I hope you find the solution for the handle tension. Looking forward to the follow up video with that safe combination cracked!
Use the original stepper for the handle actuator. You can use belt or other gear systems to increase the torque and I'm thinking that the stepper is quicker than the baby servo.
*Pay Day 2 music kicks in*
how about two servos to operate the handle?.. configured as push / Pull? that way you don't have to rely on the mechanical return of the spring which is quite slow, and you will get a more positive/faster/more accurate actuation of the handle
Reality is hard but you are harder. You are almost there. And the gadget looks cool enough to appear in a Hollywood movie- a *Mission Impossible* might be appropriate. :-)
Still a better lovestory than Twilight.
Looking at your handle turning rig, it looks like you have the servo directly connected to the handle, this is likely to over work the servo. If servo decoupled from the handle by a spring you would be Less likely to stall the servo and prevent over heating.
Stalling servo is likely to also strip gears. (A lot of rc cars fit a servo saver on steering)
Personally I would have tried using a solinoid, rather than a servo, to operate the handle.
As can be operated very quickly, and I believe that you should get a quicker test time for one cycle in comparison to servo, theoretically that means it should find combination faster even a small time saving per cycle adds up.
Why not use a linear actuator instead of a servo?
I don't know, this curse is sounding more and more mummy related
Gear down a brushless motor and put an encoder on it. Plenty fast and with plenty of torque.
My guess is you need a stronger handle servo... but again that is my guess.
the lever will only turn once the dial retracts a bolt blocking the bolt work. also a dial like that works in a 4 3 2 pattern. you have to land on the first number after landing on the 4th time passing it. then the second on the 3rd time passing it and so on. after you get the last number you turn the dial clock wise till it stops then the bolts can be retracted.
Is it possible to use a solenoid for the handle?
Could be possible. The throw would have to be pretty long for a solenoid
Congrats on the 100K subs.
When you finally get that thing open, I bet the combination note is the only item in it.
You will find out soon enough! I got the safe open, the new video will be out on Friday!
Is the Arduino code still good for the original S&G in part 2? Have a friend with the same style lock and he can't get it open.
Why aren't you using a solenoid for the handle, it would be quicker and provide good force.
I think it would be better to use a linear actuator made with a stepper and a screw for the handle. They are cheap and very strong
That would be a very strong option. It would also be incredibly slow. Whatever solution I come up with has to repeat 80k times.
@@bytesizedengineering I undersdtand that pneumatics weren't possible at your BILs house. Do you have compressed air in your shop? Then a double-acting cylinder would be a perfect solution. Fast, reliable and strong enough
@@bytesizedengineering i still think it would be a good option even though it is slow. it may take 10x longer, but you should be able to just let it run for a week and get a cracked safe at the end. consider installing one and letting it run, and try to design something faster with a test rig while it is running. if you get something better and faster, stop the slow version, take note of the combination it last tried and start from there with the updated design. speed doesn't matter if it works.
Recuva is free and works just as well.
You should record it next time you run it throughout the night that way you can get a little more of and idea on what went wrong
my trick to avoid mistakes is to stay in bed doing nothing
you need a better servo to turn the handle. the amount of force needed to turn the handle with the correct combination is an unknown. it could be more force than you think.
Boyyyy you ain’t never heard of recuva?!
What was the issue with the power supply, ac, too high voltage or reversed voltage?
Awesome job!
What's an engineer? A person who will spend a month building a machine to accomplish a week long in a day.
What made you go with a servo motor for the handle over a solenoid?
I've rebuilt many pinball machines and it seems like one of the launch solenoids would work perfectly here. Bidirectional, fast, and it doesn't mind trying to move but being unable to like a motor does.
Do you have a link to a solenoid?
@@bytesizedengineering Not off the top of my head, sorry - it's been a decade. A latching solenoid from a security system would also work. Those are designed to turn deadbolts.
Knowing what type of looking mec. The safe has it should be able to be opened in under a 1/2hr
If you can monitor the current the wheel motor is using you will find the point the 3rd wheel has engaged the cam because it will start to pull the bolt back which will put more load on the motor. You can then test if its the right number by telling the motor to try and turn the wheel 180' and if it does to carry on trying, if its withdrawing the bolt it will stop the motor before then.
This dial mechanism doesn't work that way unfortunately
Do you mean the dial doesn't withdraw the bolt and its the handle that moves at the right combo? If that's the case they are quite easy to open by putting a weight on the handle and looking for movement while turning the dial. In an auto dialler situation you would have a sensor that detects the handle moving while the stepper rotates the dial. You can also do that type relatively quickly with some practice.
I use a weight with a laser pen attached it shining on an opposite wall to amplify the movement (also a good trick to measure contact points on normal manipulation)
So did you go to WVU? and if you did what is you degree in? Electrical? Mechanical?
What if you use an electromagnetic puller to pull a string hang to the end of the handle? Like One of those that hold the firewall doors between section of a building.
Tension the handle to the open position instead of close then use the servo to pull the handle to the close position.
when you found your bug (counting rising/falling) - would that same bug fix have mattered in the previous motor?
The previous motor didn't have an encoder.
get recuva next time.... its not as fast and quick as most commercial licensed deleted file recovery programs but its free!!
Why not just call Field & Stream? They are available to give you the combo with a SN# I work with them all the time.
There is no serial number on the safe. My brother-in-law tried for months to go this route. Where would you look to find the serial number?
@@bytesizedengineering by hinge OR on the rear left corner. IF he registered it they would have it on file as well.
So when will it be on Github?
I want this device so hard
just use 2 servos, one pushing clockwise and the other pushing counterclockwise
That servo is not enough to open any safe i have owned. You need a bit more oomph.
Switch to a lead screw or pneumatic actuator, then you can drive the **** out of this lever.
Would a x-ray machine work on it?
recuva is a free tool to recover deleted files
Yeah I'm sure we all are so disappointed that there's more safe videos coming 🙃
I have watched the series from the start, including the live stream. However, I don’t think I have ever had my question answered. Why does it look like it turns left, left, left, right. As far as I am aware, safes go left, right, left.
The robot sets the first number, then the second, then the third. Left Right left. This safe has false gates so it only needs to try 8 numbers as the third number. It can try all the third numbers without disturbing the first or second numbers.
When it doesn't find the combination after trying all the third numbers it goes back and decrements the second number. Then it tries all the third numbers again without disturbing the second or first numbers. It does this over and over decrementing the second number.
After the robot has tried all the second numbers, it finally increments the first number and starts all over. It continues this large pattern until it's tried all the first numbers
@@bytesizedengineering thanks for the reply! I guess I’m just confused how it’s trying to unlock it when it just turns left. I think I understand the false gates I just can’t wrap my head around how it spins. My gun safe for example. (Fake numbers) I go left 16. Right 29. Left 1. Unlock.
If I was to go left 16, then keep going left to 29, then continue to 1, it wouldn’t unlock.
Sorry to bother you with this, just not knowing how this works has been driving me crazy!
@@jefa3524 Say the robot tested your safe and was almost up to your combination. Say it was just about to test all the 3 of 16,29,5 16,29,3 and 16,29,1. It would go left (16), right (29), left (5), left (3), left (1). It just tested 3 combinations with only 6 moves (not 9).
@@pete3897 not sure why but that made it click for me! Thank you very much Pete. Now I can sleep easy lol.
@@jefa3524 ruclips.net/video/CZ8WRDVgKrk/видео.html
Amateur design of the handle servo, don't u know basic leverage torque. It should not be mounted Axle to axle, but ofset so the servo can work the handle with torque.
Why did you spend $100 on some data recovery software when there are a bunch of free open-source ones that work great?
wholy crap dude - i can go online and find 1/2 a dozen open source undelete programs.
How money
Finally! EDIT: Nevermind :D
If you don’t have a safe you know the combination to, and can reliably open, you’re going to be constantly fighting an uphill battle. Test driven development. Build the integration test rig first. Define success, and build a minimum viable product to achieve that. In this case, spin in the correct combination, and open the door. Once you have something that passes that test, that can follow the happy path and succeed, you can solve additional problems, like not knowing the combination. Imagine trying to build a pyramid, but starting with the cap stone, instead of the base. That’s you right now.
You've just graduated, haven't you?
Hello,
This is very interested project. You have done a tremendous amount of work
But I think that you are doing the code entry procedure wrong.
The dialing procere looks difrent.
I have a similar safe and entering the code looks like this:
I turn the first code 4 times to the left. Second code 3x to the right. Third code 2x to the left. Finally, to the right and I'll unlock it.
It is not even necessary to move the door handle. The input wheel stops at the last turn.
Like this:
ruclips.net/video/hHqkbT64ZXc/видео.html
Or this:
ruclips.net/video/BdMt9pyiidk/видео.html
I wish you success and I look forward to the next part.
I am so glad I skipped to the end instead of watching all the other blah blah blah, because all that and no open safe would just annoy me.
test comment
Posting a video with a clickbait title just cost you a subscriber. Not cool.
This guy really like dragging stuff out to maximise money made from videos
The last video I made about this was 4 months ago. I have been struggling to get this to work ever since. This is a small glimpse of how much work went into this project. And if you think I earn enough money from the ads to make a living, You don't know enough about RUclips ads. If you don't find value in watching, please don't. Go watch something else
How money