Hey there! Love your videos on the 6.2’s. I have a 92 Chevy p30. It’s a big boy! This is my first diesel and no mechanics want to work on it and it seems the ones that do can’t fix it right. The one thing I have been trying to find is the fuel filter and you answered it here in this video! The FM100 because when I go to auto one they give me the stock one which is completely different. So thank you for doing these videos because I am a visual learner and you simplify everything which is what I need to learn. Especially since I cannot trust any of the mechanics around my way
I have a M1028 that I won at auction. It’s taken a ton of work to get reliable, but it’s a fun rig. I put in Powerservice every other fill up, and make sure to push the motor hard every time I drive it. Runs like a top but leaks oil everwhere😂.
Any clue what to do with a M1009 idles fine but as soon as you shift into drive it starts sputtering and can hardly move or rev. Revs fine in idle or neutral as it should but as soon as it gets in gear it can’t rev at all
That one has me stumped. Fuel filter, fuel lift pump, Injection pump health, IP timing, fuel tank sock clogged, stuck parking brake, torque converter locked up from something bad inside. My only suggestions are pull the fuel return line on the top of the injection pump and remove the fitting. There should be a glass ball inside and just clean fuel. If you have a bunch of little black pieces in there then your IP is disintegrating and needs rebuilt. If it is torque converter or transmission related then I suggest putting it in low range and stay off the brakes when you put it in gear. Thanks for watching.
When i first got mine, coming off hill at high rpm, get back on throttle, nothing, put it in nuetral hit throttle back to drive or wait till rpm come down b4 get response. Ran a tank with atf it straightened up.
Hi tim. I have an 86 m1009 stock 6.2. Only mod is push button glow plugs. Mine does not seem to high idle at all. Just goes straight to normal idle speed. Just curious if you had any recommendations on where to start? The truck runs absolutely flawless after i put fresh fuel with some atf in it. Just doesn't seem to high idle. Just want everytime to work as it should. Thanks!
Your issue is all about the green wire on the injection pump. There are actually 2 green wires. 1 comes to the pump and splits. 1 splits to the fast idle solenoid hanging over on the driver side of the IP. With the coolant below 94° there should be 12 volt at the fast idle solenoid green wire and the key on. The other split goes to a plug on the IP top cover itself. This is the cold start advance solenoid. It is what makes the engine sound like it is “pinging” when cold. 12 volts there as well with the key on and the coolant below 94°. Obviously, if you have 12 volts at both green wires and no reactions then those parts are bad. I have found that both failing at the same time is extremely rare. Which means you get to follow the green wire backwards. The green wire comes from a thermo sensor located at the passenger side rear outside of the cylinder head. Put your knees on the radiator and your right hand on the passenger valve cover. Then feel down the very rear outside of the head. You might be able to see it below and behind the glow plug for #8. Sometimes you can’t which is why I gave the knee and hand instructions. Hopefully your wires are unplugged, you can plug them back in and all is well. I have had that happen due to cat infestation. There are only 2 wires. The green wire going to the IP and I forget the other wire color. The other wire should be 12 volts anytime the key is on. If it doesn’t follow it back to the fire wall plug on the driver side. Hopefully it will be broken somewhere easy to get to. If you have power to the plug then you have to test the plug. Below 94° coolant temp an Ohm meter should have 0 resistance between the leads. Above 94° coolant and there should be 0 continuity. Broken off is how most of mine have failed. New ones are not cheap. I like changing them from above because the coolant doesn’t get on me as much. Could engine, have the new one ready, break the old one loose, remove the tool, hand remove it, get the new one in the hole and threaded quickly and then finish tightening with a wrench. Plug at back in and all is well. Thanks for watching. I will do a green wire video soon.
Question...I have a 83' GMC 2500 with a 6.2. I have been developing a problem where truck starts fantastic cold but after being hot, wont fire back up. New starter and batteries with a good connection and I still have the issue. Not a lack of starter speed and I have made sure there is no fuel leaks so air isn't getting into the system and loosing fuel prime. At a loss for the problem, IP going bad?
The not starting 30 minutes to about 2 hours after being fully warmed up in moderate outside temperatures comes up a lot. With my trucks it was the injection pump going out. However, if you mean you drove for hours, stopped for fuel and now won’t start 10 minutes later? That could be IP but it could also be the on/off solenoid being weak or in a bind. Has your IP ever been rebuilt and if so, how long ago? I was told by a Stanadyne rebuilder years ago that 8 years is the shelf life and/or running life of a pump. I think he was just trying to make a sale since I have some with more than 20 years on them going great.
@@timsteachablemoments1786 thank you for the response. I just put a refresh 6.2 out of a Humvee in my truck from a private seller and don’t know the history on the IP that came on the motor. Yeah has been a recent problem on the hot starts regardless of time / distance. I might order up a fuel shut off solenoid to start there. The cold water on the IP didn’t do anything or disconnecting the return line off the pump. The timing of the pump is spot on. I appreciate your videos on the old 6.2… they are good motors for what they are. My daily driver that saves miles on my 4th gen Dodge and gets better MPGs as well. Have a 4spd manual with a factory gear vendor overdrive unit
You know about the tricks. Try the solenoid but you will probably end up doing the IP. The military IP’s all had the “artic” kit installed in the IP so it could handle the JP fuel better. I think all of the rebuild kits rebuilders can buy now are those kits. But, if you can talk to your rebuilder, ask about that. Your truck sounds like a great forever vehicle.
@@timsteachablemoments1786 just a follow up. Replaced the solenoid for fuel shut off to the injection pump and that ended up being my problem. Starts cold / hot now with zero issues. Post ( pos/neg) for the solenoid looked bad when removed from the housing cover. Still an interesting hot start issue…. but glad to finally have that one resolved.
Hi Tim. Great videos I'm learning a lot. So I have a 84 m1008 and I want to replace my harmonic balancer. Napa has one in the ball kamp brand but it looks like it's been sitting in the box for 40 years. My other option is a pioneer brand from oriley but I don't know anything about that brand and I think it's China. Rock auto has a ATP brand. Witch one should I get? Any advise? Thanks
Unfortunately that is the case for a lot of parts these days. 40 year old in the box, cheap worthless “new” replacements or super expensive “best” fixes. The Fluidamper balancer is the super expensive replacement. There is a thread on Steel Soldiers currently about this exact topic. You can gamble with the old part, cheap new part or replace and forget for a bunch of money. There doesn’t seem to be any other options for an out of production almost 30 years engine.
Great videos tim thanks. So I just bought a 84 m1008 with 6.2 has 87,000 miles. I put on a fluid damper, it has the push button glow plug conversion and starter solenoid conversion. Still 24 volt. Anything else I should check or do? It's running great, should I check the valve adjustment? Anything you recommend? I'm looking to get years of service out of this truck. Thanks
Sounds like you got things covered. Clean fuel filter, air filter and treat the fuel for gelling if you live somewhere that might get really cold these next few weeks. Otherwise just normal preventative maintenance should keep you running for a very long time. Thanks for watching.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Hey there! Love your videos on the 6.2’s. I have a 92 Chevy p30. It’s a big boy! This is my first diesel and no mechanics want to work on it and it seems the ones that do can’t fix it right. The one thing I have been trying to find is the fuel filter and you answered it here in this video! The FM100 because when I go to auto one they give me the stock one which is completely different. So thank you for doing these videos because I am a visual learner and you simplify everything which is what I need to learn. Especially since I cannot trust any of the mechanics around my way
*When I go to auto zone*
Thank you for watching. These engines seem to thrive when the owner is the maintainer. So, as I maintain, I video and tell what I have learned.
I have a M1028 that I won at auction. It’s taken a ton of work to get reliable, but it’s a fun rig. I put in Powerservice every other fill up, and make sure to push the motor hard every time I drive it. Runs like a top but leaks oil everwhere😂.
Any clue what to do with a M1009 idles fine but as soon as you shift into drive it starts sputtering and can hardly move or rev. Revs fine in idle or neutral as it should but as soon as it gets in gear it can’t rev at all
That one has me stumped. Fuel filter, fuel lift pump, Injection pump health, IP timing, fuel tank sock clogged, stuck parking brake, torque converter locked up from something bad inside.
My only suggestions are pull the fuel return line on the top of the injection pump and remove the fitting. There should be a glass ball inside and just clean fuel. If you have a bunch of little black pieces in there then your IP is disintegrating and needs rebuilt.
If it is torque converter or transmission related then I suggest putting it in low range and stay off the brakes when you put it in gear. Thanks for watching.
What is the ideal rpm for Detroit 6.2?
When i first got mine, coming off hill at high rpm, get back on throttle, nothing, put it in nuetral hit throttle back to drive or wait till rpm come down b4 get response. Ran a tank with atf it straightened up.
Hi tim. I have an 86 m1009 stock 6.2. Only mod is push button glow plugs. Mine does not seem to high idle at all. Just goes straight to normal idle speed. Just curious if you had any recommendations on where to start? The truck runs absolutely flawless after i put fresh fuel with some atf in it. Just doesn't seem to high idle. Just want everytime to work as it should.
Thanks!
Your issue is all about the green wire on the injection pump. There are actually 2 green wires. 1 comes to the pump and splits.
1 splits to the fast idle solenoid hanging over on the driver side of the IP. With the coolant below 94° there should be 12 volt at the fast idle solenoid green wire and the key on.
The other split goes to a plug on the IP top cover itself. This is the cold start advance solenoid. It is what makes the engine sound like it is “pinging” when cold. 12 volts there as well with the key on and the coolant below 94°.
Obviously, if you have 12 volts at both green wires and no reactions then those parts are bad. I have found that both failing at the same time is extremely rare. Which means you get to follow the green wire backwards.
The green wire comes from a thermo sensor located at the passenger side rear outside of the cylinder head. Put your knees on the radiator and your right hand on the passenger valve cover. Then feel down the very rear outside of the head. You might be able to see it below and behind the glow plug for #8. Sometimes you can’t which is why I gave the knee and hand instructions.
Hopefully your wires are unplugged, you can plug them back in and all is well. I have had that happen due to cat infestation. There are only 2 wires. The green wire going to the IP and I forget the other wire color. The other wire should be 12 volts anytime the key is on. If it doesn’t follow it back to the fire wall plug on the driver side. Hopefully it will be broken somewhere easy to get to.
If you have power to the plug then you have to test the plug. Below 94° coolant temp an Ohm meter should have 0 resistance between the leads. Above 94° coolant and there should be 0 continuity. Broken off is how most of mine have failed. New ones are not cheap. I like changing them from above because the coolant doesn’t get on me as much. Could engine, have the new one ready, break the old one loose, remove the tool, hand remove it, get the new one in the hole and threaded quickly and then finish tightening with a wrench. Plug at back in and all is well.
Thanks for watching. I will do a green wire video soon.
@timsteachablemoments1786 thanks Tim I will take a look at everything you described. Once again, I greatly appreciate you and your channel. Thanks!
Question...I have a 83' GMC 2500 with a 6.2. I have been developing a problem where truck starts fantastic cold but after being hot, wont fire back up. New starter and batteries with a good connection and I still have the issue. Not a lack of starter speed and I have made sure there is no fuel leaks so air isn't getting into the system and loosing fuel prime. At a loss for the problem, IP going bad?
The not starting 30 minutes to about 2 hours after being fully warmed up in moderate outside temperatures comes up a lot. With my trucks it was the injection pump going out. However, if you mean you drove for hours, stopped for fuel and now won’t start 10 minutes later? That could be IP but it could also be the on/off solenoid being weak or in a bind.
Has your IP ever been rebuilt and if so, how long ago? I was told by a Stanadyne rebuilder years ago that 8 years is the shelf life and/or running life of a pump. I think he was just trying to make a sale since I have some with more than 20 years on them going great.
@@timsteachablemoments1786 thank you for the response. I just put a refresh 6.2 out of a Humvee in my truck from a private seller and don’t know the history on the IP that came on the motor. Yeah has been a recent problem on the hot starts regardless of time / distance. I might order up a fuel shut off solenoid to start there.
The cold water on the IP didn’t do anything or disconnecting the return line off the pump. The timing of the pump is spot on. I appreciate your videos on the old 6.2… they are good motors for what they are. My daily driver that saves miles on my 4th gen Dodge and gets better MPGs as well. Have a 4spd manual with a factory gear vendor overdrive unit
You know about the tricks. Try the solenoid but you will probably end up doing the IP. The military IP’s all had the “artic” kit installed in the IP so it could handle the JP fuel better. I think all of the rebuild kits rebuilders can buy now are those kits. But, if you can talk to your rebuilder, ask about that.
Your truck sounds like a great forever vehicle.
@@timsteachablemoments1786 just a follow up. Replaced the solenoid for fuel shut off to the injection pump and that ended up being my problem. Starts cold / hot now with zero issues. Post ( pos/neg) for the solenoid looked bad when removed from the housing cover. Still an interesting hot start issue…. but glad to finally have that one resolved.
@@briandownie4441 Great!
Hi Tim. Great videos I'm learning a lot. So I have a 84 m1008 and I want to replace my harmonic balancer. Napa has one in the ball kamp brand but it looks like it's been sitting in the box for 40 years. My other option is a pioneer brand from oriley but I don't know anything about that brand and I think it's China. Rock auto has a ATP brand. Witch one should I get? Any advise? Thanks
Unfortunately that is the case for a lot of parts these days. 40 year old in the box, cheap worthless “new” replacements or super expensive “best” fixes. The Fluidamper balancer is the super expensive replacement. There is a thread on Steel Soldiers currently about this exact topic. You can gamble with the old part, cheap new part or replace and forget for a bunch of money. There doesn’t seem to be any other options for an out of production almost 30 years engine.
Great videos tim thanks. So I just bought a 84 m1008 with 6.2 has 87,000 miles. I put on a fluid damper, it has the push button glow plug conversion and starter solenoid conversion. Still 24 volt. Anything else I should check or do? It's running great, should I check the valve adjustment? Anything you recommend? I'm looking to get years of service out of this truck. Thanks
Sounds like you got things covered. Clean fuel filter, air filter and treat the fuel for gelling if you live somewhere that might get really cold these next few weeks. Otherwise just normal preventative maintenance should keep you running for a very long time. Thanks for watching.
@@timsteachablemoments1786 Thanks!
I'm in Florida