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Your issue is all about the green wire on the injection pump. There are actually 2 green wires. 1 comes to the pump and splits. 1 splits to the fast idle solenoid hanging over on the driver side of the IP. With the coolant below 94° there should be 12 volt at the fast idle solenoid green wire and the key on. The other split goes to a plug on the IP top cover itself. This is the cold start advance solenoid. It is what makes the engine sound like it is “pinging” when cold. 12 volts there as well with the key on and the coolant below 94°. Obviously, if you have 12 volts at both green wires and no reactions then those parts are bad. I have found that both failing at the same time is extremely rare. Which means you get to follow the green wire backwards. The green wire comes from a thermo sensor located at the passenger side rear outside of the cylinder head. Put your knees on the radiator and your right hand on the passenger valve cover. Then feel down the very rear outside of the head. You might be able to see it below and behind the glow plug for #8. Sometimes you can’t which is why I gave the knee and hand instructions. Hopefully your wires are unplugged, you can plug them back in and all is well. I have had that happen due to cat infestation. There are only 2 wires. The green wire going to the IP and I forget the other wire color. The other wire should be 12 volts anytime the key is on. If it doesn’t follow it back to the fire wall plug on the driver side. Hopefully it will be broken somewhere easy to get to. If you have power to the plug then you have to test the plug. Below 94° coolant temp an Ohm meter should have 0 resistance between the leads. Above 94° coolant and there should be 0 continuity. Broken off is how most of mine have failed. New ones are not cheap. I like changing them from above because the coolant doesn’t get on me as much. Could engine, have the new one ready, break the old one loose, remove the tool, hand remove it, get the new one in the hole and threaded quickly and then finish tightening with a wrench. Plug at back in and all is well. Thanks for watching. I will do a green wire video soon.

@timsteachablemoments1786 thanks Tim I will take a look at everything you described. Once again, I greatly appreciate you and your channel. Thanks!

Thank you for watching.

Thank you for watching.

I cleaned my grounds and added an extra even. Steel Soldiers and CK5 have had this discussion many times over the years. Thank you for watching.

The trouble with GM is when they declared bankruptcy in 2009 they separated the new GM from the past GM. Once the parts stockpile is used up, they are gone forever. A good example is the rear A/C switch for the squarebody Suburban. GM is out and nobody makes a replacement. Thank you for watching.

I didn’t mean to come across that way. My beef with O’Reilly’s is they offer a lifetime warranty. To me that means the product is good enough to stand behind and worth buying from them. 10 years ago that was true in my experience. Not so much recently. I actually have a commercial account with O’Reilly’s. I can walk in without a receipt to any of their stores, give them my number and they can verify that I did in fact purchase from them and it should be replaced. Thank you for watching.

Thank you for watching.

*When I go to auto zone*

Thank you for watching. These engines seem to thrive when the owner is the maintainer. So, as I maintain, I video and tell what I have learned.

Very true. But the point I was trying to make in the video is biodiesel tolerant lift pumps are pretty much down to just the Delphi unit I have. My experience is the rest just don’t last.

Exactly! You can never have enough spare parts. Thank you for watching.

Visit steelsoldiers.com and look around the CUCV sub forum. Just reading threads will reveal a good number of people near you. Contacting some of them might be your best bet. Thank you for watching.

I do not currently own a 2 wheel drive Squarebody and haven’t had a C10 in almost 30 years. Sorry, but I just don’t know that one. Thank you for watching.

@ oh ok . Thanks for trying to help.

Rotella T-6 is what I run in everything else I own.

Glad you clarified. I have 2 of them leaking myself on 6.2 engines. I will be doing videos as I replace them and hopefully put in some better hoses that last longer. What specifically are you looking for?

Well it makes a huge diesel mess in my drive way and I looked under the truck and suspect it to be that mechanical fuel pump. Due to the hard start after the leak. Was curious if you had experience with it, and what your due diligence would be for the remedy.

@@iansullivan3533 Change the fuel pump. I just posted a video at 8:00 this morning going through the same basic leak you describe and the proper part number modern replacement. ruclips.net/video/NDLGm0Q9XJw/видео.htmlsi=5Q8Dc1rYH_iY02vj

I will. Thank you for watching.

That is a device that was marketed back in the ‘80’s as a fuel mileage helper. I mounted it to see if it worked. Which was a little. Then I have left it on because if I mess with the fuel lines, I want to swap over to AN fittings and PTFE braided steel hoses. That takes money and motivation to mess with something that doesn’t leak. I will soon though. Thank you for watching.

@ cool, it looks like a good way to keep the filter housing from getting the pulses from the pump directly. I watch most of your squarebody CUCV videos, been a cucv nut for 5 or 6 years. Doing my second banks kit soon!

@@JP4XOR It is too bad Banks stopped making the kits. I think they are great.

Thank you for watching.

I do. However it is just starting and not how to do it. I will get on that and make a how to. Thanks for watching

Thank you for watching.

Thank you for watching. I am trying to make the rest of the vehicle to that standard.

Glad to hear it. Thank you for watching.

Glad it helped. Thank you for watching.

I know! Thanks for watching.

Thank you for watching.

Since air keeps getting in while the engine is running. That means the leak is on the suction side of the fuel pump. Check the fittings on the fuel pump for cracks, take them apart and add teflon tape, tighten the clamps and look for any other place that might let air in. There won’t be a fuel spill there either. Air molecules are smaller than diesel molecules.

@@timsteachablemoments1786thanks I’ll start with the tape and move forward from there

@@timsteachablemoments1786 I removed the fuel tank and found the O-Ring on the suction side damaged this is the third time I’ve replaced the O-Ring I’m trying to figure out what would cause damage to it since I insure it goes on straight and is lubricated also. I added teflon tape. To see if it helps. Any suggestions on why the O-Ring might be getting damaged ?

@@Wildcard_Shami If you are talking about the big O-ring between the fuel tank and the sender/pick up assembly, then that only serves to keep fuel from leaking out the top of the tank. It has nothing to do with your air in the fuel problem.

@@timsteachablemoments1786 I’m referring to the small O-ring that goes from the fuel sending unit to the fuel pick up line. I notice the brand of fuel sending unit I got was damaging the o-ring I ordered another one in hope that it’s a faulty fuel sending unit

I agree. A 12 foot open bed low utility trailer with a drive on ramp/tailgate is kind of needed. But those things are expensive. I have a home built 4 x 10 thing not pictured that will do for now. Thanks for watching.

That is a good way to start an argument. The answer for my M101A2 trailers is kind of/almost. The M101 was designed to go behind the M37. The M101A2 had surge brakes and was designed to go behind the Chevy CUCV trucks. The M101A3 had the axles wider and took HMMWV wheels. All of the M101 series have 2 bolts that hold the front of the bed to the hitch A frame. Pull those bolts and the trailer is designed to kind of look like a dump bed. The feature is for packing them into the hold of a ship though. The hinge bracket is not nearly stout enough for folding at max load. Also, the hydraulic brake lines and metal there and don’t take kindly to being bent too much. I don’t know about the aluminum trailers that replaced the M101A3 behind the HMMWV. Thanks for watching. I’ll do a video about this issue soon.

Thank you for watching.

12-14 gauge is the fusible link blue wire I have. Mine is from Carquest. Thanks for watching.

Very true. Thanks for watching. How is your FMTV doing?

@timsteachablemoments1786 good! Slowly chipping away with all the stuff going on. Surplus stuff is never done. 🤣

Thank you for watching.

Thanks for the suggestion. Thank you also for watching.

5-8 psi. It is pretty low and doesn’t need to do much more than get the fuel to the inlet of the Injection pump. Thanks for watching.

I actually did an entire video just about the controller, numbers, plug and what wire goes where: ruclips.net/video/6wDj_yUQ9EE/видео.htmlsi=wFwXPr2m7Xae22tM Delco 212-367 is the gray controller. S-759 is the plug. Thanks for watching.

@@timsteachablemoments1786 oh, perfect. Thank you.

@@timsteachablemoments1786 ah, looks like the Delco version was discontinued. The only listing I could find was selling it for 185USD. That would explain why the supplier I originally tried getting it from last week refunded me.

@@Duamerthrax They were for sale everywhere when I made the linked video in February 2024. I hope it is just supply chain issues and not now a discontinued part.

Good idea. Thanks for watching.

Thank you for watching. Talking while doing gets me in more trouble sometimes.

Cool. Thanks for watching.

Thank you for watching.

True. WD-40 used to have propane as the propellant in the can. That is what made it a good starting aid to the diesel engines. Thanks for watching.

What are you working on? Civilian Blazer and military pick up trucks, pulling the tank isn’t that bad. Just cumbersome. Military M1009 Blazer is an entirely different world of things in the way. The pintle hook has to come off. All of my bolts for that broke. So did my fuel tank trap ends. I don’t live where rust is a problem.

@@timsteachablemoments1786 Thank you for the fast reply. I have a 93 chevy 6.5. 1 ton. right now I'm getting no power to the ignition. My batteries are good and I checked my fuses they are good. Where would you start? I have never had this problem. No diesel Mech where I live small town. Taken it twice to one mech. No good. I know you are a professional and knowdiesels. 75 miles to a city. Any suggestion appreciated. No rust where I live S.W. N.M. Thank you.

@@09Youba I would suggest starting at the batteries. Pull off all 4 connections, wire brush them, check the voltage on the batteries and tighten the cables back up. Follow the ground wire from one of the batteries to where it bolts to the frame. Remove that bolt, wire brush it and tighten it back up. The positive from the batteries should go to the starter motor. Verify there is battery voltage there and all connections tight. Power then goes from the starter connection to the firewall. Follow the wire and check connections and voltage along the way. Keep following the power wires all the way to the ignition switch on the steering column. There should be no fuses or fusable link between the batteries and the ignition switch. If you have battery voltage all the way to the ignition switch, check the other leads on the switch with the key in different positions

@@timsteachablemoments1786 Thank you Tim, I really appreciate your advice. I will let you know how this goes.

Your the Man Tim. After cleaning all the ground wires and terminals I noticed the positive cable connection with the two positive cables that connect to both batteries inside the rubber connection there is a washer that was rusty. I replaced that washer and the truck started right away. This may seem simple to most all of your subscribers but it is the little things you miss that could be the problem. Your were right clean every thing. Many thanks your the Pro.