Had a similar issue with the contacts on a rear light on my mothers car. A brake light wasn’t working but when I took out the bulb, it looked fine. So I swapped over the other brake light bulb from the right side (that I saw was working) and put it in the left side and it wouldn’t light up. So I checked the connector and there was corrosion on it and the pins had been separated a bit. Cleaned off the corrosion and moved the pins together and reassembled and hey presto, brake light worked again. It’s the little successes like this that make your day😂
Im getting the same. Dpf has been cleaned. Map sensor. Maf sensor. Tried cleaning the pressure pipe but i feel i cant get the last bit. Done the injector plug and prongs. Just a bit sluggish. Starts and runs lovely. No missfire. 1.6 biturbo. 90k miles. Had a turbo at 70k. Cheers for the videos
Another great job, Jimmy! Why not check the connectors, when replacing injectors? Doesn't take any time when you're already in there and saves futures frustration.
The 1.6 is a really sweet running engine and punches above it's size. Very good on fuel too. Its all the pollution crap attached to it that's the problem. Got to wonder if a lot of these issues are due to short runs at low engine speeds.
Normsly there is nothing which can made the sensors dirty. As far as I know most of the time water gets into the control unit of the sensor leading it to fail. I opened some of them and there was always some kind of calk in them. Very strange
@@Tsto50 If I am not mistaken its meaning that there is a problem with the Heater circuit from NOX Sensor 2. If so theres no need of cleaning. Makes kinda sense that it only pops up on short journeys. there the Sensor is heated up more often than on long trips. Than the ecu is seeing a faulty heating circuits. On long runs is not needed cuz of the higher exhaust temperature. There is probably not registered by the unit But its just a guess
Hi Jimmy got the wifes clio 1.5 dci 2018. Im stuck with a dpf problem car only done 33k. After Regen 4mbar fast idle 30 mbar. When driving upstream temp rises to 450c soot comes down but only lasts 10 sec max then drops back down. It say Regen status1 if that means owt. Problem is it went to limp mode as soot grams hit 30g and pressure was high like 25mbar idle. I had to force Regen which I don't like doing this was on wed soot level went to 7.5 G now it's at 20g after 80 miles. I noticed soot calculation goes up and down is it normal on these cars as I know trafic calculates up to a point and starts regeneration. Exhaust pressure pipe new and working tailpipe totally clean. It has got a stage 1 map on but it is actually better on fuel with it. All data pids for dpf active and nothing been touched according to the guy who wrote the file. Even with pressure at18 mbar idle the spot calculation goes up and down basically something is stopping auto Regenm is it something you're familiar with as I'm stuck m an active Regen should be up to 600 but it's just not doing it unless I force it. any help appreciate
Two shops suggested to replace ALL of the injectors for the 2nd time, when the first replacement didn't do anything? Unbelievable, truly just part cannon "mechanics", zero troubleshooting skills
The Vauxhall Vivaro. Renault Trafic and Citroen Dispatch vans are the gift that keeps on giving. 😂
Great information, cleaning the contacts of the connector👍
Thanks 👍
Jimmy these videos are fantastic and everyday is a school day 👍
Had a similar issue with the contacts on a rear light on my mothers car. A brake light wasn’t working but when I took out the bulb, it looked fine. So I swapped over the other brake light bulb from the right side (that I saw was working) and put it in the left side and it wouldn’t light up. So I checked the connector and there was corrosion on it and the pins had been separated a bit. Cleaned off the corrosion and moved the pins together and reassembled and hey presto, brake light worked again. It’s the little successes like this that make your day😂
Im getting the same. Dpf has been cleaned. Map sensor. Maf sensor. Tried cleaning the pressure pipe but i feel i cant get the last bit. Done the injector plug and prongs. Just a bit sluggish. Starts and runs lovely. No missfire. 1.6 biturbo. 90k miles. Had a turbo at 70k. Cheers for the videos
It pays to have the knowledge... And ultimately that's what saves people money
Great result. Thanks for showing us the fix 👍
No problem 👍
Another brilliant job, Jimmy. 👍
Thanks again!
Well done Jimmy
Learning all the time from your videos 👍
That's great
Another great job, Jimmy! Why not check the connectors, when replacing injectors? Doesn't take any time when you're already in there and saves futures frustration.
Good job 👍
Thanks 👍
👍
What is the wire you use to clean the upstream pressure pipe? Jimmy
Guitar wires.
So many Renaults lately with the 1.6dci, i think the 2.3dci's are solid
The 1.6 is a really sweet running engine and punches above it's size. Very good on fuel too. Its all the pollution crap attached to it that's the problem. Got to wonder if a lot of these issues are due to short runs at low engine speeds.
Do you ever see nox sensor faults on these, I keep getting a code on mine not sure if it’s worth trying to clean out the sensor first ?
Normsly there is nothing which can made the sensors dirty.
As far as I know most of the time water gets into the control unit of the sensor leading it to fail. I opened some of them and there was always some kind of calk in them. Very strange
@ gonna have to get it off and have a look then, there just so damn expensive
@@Tsto50 what kind of error do you get?
well its glued together. when open the housing usualy is broken.
@ get P3208 and to be honest it only ever comes on, on short journeys never get it on longer runs
@@Tsto50 If I am not mistaken its meaning that there is a problem with the Heater circuit from NOX Sensor 2. If so theres no need of cleaning.
Makes kinda sense that it only pops up on short journeys. there the Sensor is heated up more often than on long trips. Than the ecu is seeing a faulty heating circuits.
On long runs is not needed cuz of the higher exhaust temperature. There is probably not registered by the unit
But its just a guess
Hi Jimmy got the wifes clio 1.5 dci 2018. Im stuck with a dpf problem car only done 33k. After Regen 4mbar fast idle 30 mbar. When driving upstream temp rises to 450c soot comes down but only lasts 10 sec max then drops back down. It say Regen status1 if that means owt. Problem is it went to limp mode as soot grams hit 30g and pressure was high like 25mbar idle. I had to force Regen which I don't like doing this was on wed soot level went to 7.5 G now it's at 20g after 80 miles. I noticed soot calculation goes up and down is it normal on these cars as I know trafic calculates up to a point and starts regeneration. Exhaust pressure pipe new and working tailpipe totally clean. It has got a stage 1 map on but it is actually better on fuel with it. All data pids for dpf active and nothing been touched according to the guy who wrote the file. Even with pressure at18 mbar idle the spot calculation goes up and down basically something is stopping auto Regenm is it something you're familiar with as I'm stuck m an active Regen should be up to 600 but it's just not doing it unless I force it. any help appreciate
Two shops suggested to replace ALL of the injectors for the 2nd time, when the first replacement didn't do anything? Unbelievable, truly just part cannon "mechanics", zero troubleshooting skills
Anybody here in Ireland have a 2nd hand airbag module 909605T, needed for my 2010 Octavia
was this a taxi? hasnt even got a radio
Crew van
Radio? It's all phone based these days
Delete the crypto scammers Jimmy
What's that?
@ORileysAutos you see these crypto scammers on other sites and I thought YT had got rid of them 😩