Thanks for taking the time/effort to make this video and sharing you experience and talent with us! Being a 'newbie' to leather work, I appreciate any/all efforts to share with me as I'm sure others also do! Beveling is one of the first things I've attempted to master and yet have to do so... :>( I'm looking forward to practicing your techniques and hope that they will help my efforts as I'm sure they will! Again, THANKS sooo much for taking all your time/effort to share with us and hope you enjoy 'my' new hobby as much as I am!
Fantastic! Im an ultra beginner and have no idea what im doing. Your channel and videos are very easy for me to understand. I watch a lot of other channels and get a lot from them too, however I think I will get a lot more from you and yours. Especially if you are willing and easy to answer questions in the beginning. Until you get so many subscribers that you can't keep up, that probably won't be too awfully long... Thanks Do the ceramic swivel knife blades need sharpening?
Nice demo. Can you add the tool info to the description please? Additionally reading the tool model out loud will help when the camera makes it hard to read due to the lens warping. (GoPro?)
Nice demo of the various beveling tools and their effects on leather. What tool are you using to strike the beveler and how heavy is it? It was hard to tell how you were leaning each type of beveler.
+Robert Fendler thank you! www.tandyleather.com/en/product/poly-mallets Is the mallet I'm using. I like the lighter mallet for more subtle beveling. I can always hit harder but to hit softer with a heavy mallet is a pain. It's a personal preference. I may have to get a second camera to do an overhead view to show how I'm toeing the tools. Always open for suggestions I'm a leather worker that is not video oriented so still figuring this thing out.
Did this angle since an overhead shot would have one hand on the tool and another hand on a hammer blocking the work under it. I do plan on playing with the angle more now that I have a new tripod. The old one was a box, high class lol. What about this angle ran you crazy? So I know what you are looking for?
Not to be that guy…. But … Squirting water on leather isnt really quite casing the leather in the true sense of the word. Squirting water on leather Is more just wetting it. Truly casing the leather will increase the moisture content more uniformly and will last longer before it starts to dry out on you while working it. Even cased leather may need some water squirted on it or wiped down with a sponge if it starts to dry out. Properly cased leather will produce a deeper burnish from your tools and is really just mixer to work with. Just wetting it down can sometimes seem like you’re either too wet or too dry all the time and can cause overall inconsistencies in the depth and burnish of your tooling throughout a larger piece. Not always convenient and sone times just more if so sun in the ass than it seems to be worth at the time, but it really dies produce a better product. If nothing else, try what I call a quick case, instead of soaking the leather fir ten min or however long, then putting it in plastic and waiting a day to tool your leather, fill the sink with enough warm water to a vet your material, I usually put a drop of soap in it to break the surface tension of the water so it’ll soak in better, slide the material into the water so it’s fully submerged, give it a good shake, and pull it out. Shake it iff and set it aside for 15-20 min…it should start getting close to being ready in that time, depending on thickness and such. When it’s about back to it’s natural color and feels cool to the touch…not squishy n slimy, but not quite as firm as usual… and cool… throw it on the bench n whack away. It’ll stay around the right moisture content a lot longer before you have to add any water and will give you good firm tooling that holds its shape and burnishes nicely.
Terrific sensory stimulation. Show us more. New subscriber.
Awesome video man, very interesting.
Thanks for taking the time/effort to make this video and sharing you experience and talent with us! Being a 'newbie' to leather work, I appreciate any/all efforts to share with me as I'm sure others also do! Beveling is one of the first things I've attempted to master and yet have to do so... :>( I'm looking forward to practicing your techniques and hope that they will help my efforts as I'm sure they will! Again, THANKS sooo much for taking all your time/effort to share with us and hope you enjoy 'my' new hobby as much as I am!
Awesome project!
This video was helpful to me. Thank you!
Glad I could help and thank you for the kind words.
Fantastic! Im an ultra beginner and have no idea what im doing. Your channel and videos are very easy for me to understand. I watch a lot of other channels and get a lot from them too, however I think I will get a lot more from you and yours. Especially if you are willing and easy to answer questions in the beginning. Until you get so many subscribers that you can't keep up, that probably won't be too awfully long... Thanks
Do the ceramic swivel knife blades need sharpening?
thank you for the instruction
+gilbert durand you're most welcome. I hope it helps, if you have any questions feel free to ask. Always looking for more material to make videos of.
Great job Drew!
Thank you!
Nice demo. Can you add the tool info to the description please? Additionally reading the tool model out loud will help when the camera makes it hard to read due to the lens warping. (GoPro?)
+The WizDad good point I will start adding tool information to the description. I'm using a gear 360.
Nice demo of the various beveling tools and their effects on leather. What tool are you using to strike the beveler and how heavy is it? It was hard to tell how you were leaning each type of beveler.
+Robert Fendler thank you!
www.tandyleather.com/en/product/poly-mallets
Is the mallet I'm using. I like the lighter mallet for more subtle beveling. I can always hit harder but to hit softer with a heavy mallet is a pain. It's a personal preference.
I may have to get a second camera to do an overhead view to show how I'm toeing the tools. Always open for suggestions I'm a leather worker that is not video oriented so still figuring this thing out.
Good video thank you.
I like your videos dad
Try to rig up a overhead shot this angle ran me crazy video very interesting though
Did this angle since an overhead shot would have one hand on the tool and another hand on a hammer blocking the work under it. I do plan on playing with the angle more now that I have a new tripod. The old one was a box, high class lol. What about this angle ran you crazy? So I know what you are looking for?
THANX enjoyed your video
+gene Pohlmann thank you.
IT’S FUN... lol 👍
Wish I could have seen the tool technique, but much of it is outside the video frame
I will try and back the camera off more in the future. Thank you for the pointer.
Not to be that guy…. But … Squirting water on leather isnt really quite casing the leather in the true sense of the word. Squirting water on leather Is more just wetting it. Truly casing the leather will increase the moisture content more uniformly and will last longer before it starts to dry out on you while working it. Even cased leather may need some water squirted on it or wiped down with a sponge if it starts to dry out. Properly cased leather will produce a deeper burnish from your tools and is really just mixer to work with. Just wetting it down can sometimes seem like you’re either too wet or too dry all the time and can cause overall inconsistencies in the depth and burnish of your tooling throughout a larger piece. Not always convenient and sone times just more if so sun in the ass than it seems to be worth at the time, but it really dies produce a better product. If nothing else, try what I call a quick case, instead of soaking the leather fir ten min or however long, then putting it in plastic and waiting a day to tool your leather, fill the sink with enough warm water to a vet your material, I usually put a drop of soap in it to break the surface tension of the water so it’ll soak in better, slide the material into the water so it’s fully submerged, give it a good shake, and pull it out. Shake it iff and set it aside for 15-20 min…it should start getting close to being ready in that time, depending on thickness and such. When it’s about back to it’s natural color and feels cool to the touch…not squishy n slimy, but not quite as firm as usual… and cool… throw it on the bench n whack away. It’ll stay around the right moisture content a lot longer before you have to add any water and will give you good firm tooling that holds its shape and burnishes nicely.
Just say the tool number instead of the song and dance with the sharpie. Bottom line, you still can’t read the number!