Fantastic Michael. After 50 years on a bike I’ve picked up most of this but so good to have it all confirmed by a pro in one simple, down-to-earth video. The silver lining to the Covid19 cloud. Look forward to more like this.
Thank you. So calm, so all knowing but gentle. Man, I like your style of passing on knowledge, deep knowledge. Honest. Broadly experienced, not selling anything. Awesome video.
Heard TMF mentioning this guy quite a bit, but never really seen him. Now I know why. I've watched a few videos of late (I'm sure we all have!!), and this guy is top notch in his knowledge and presentation. This stuff is gold dust to those who were not born on a bike (you know who you are!). I for one appreciate the information and the easy way it is presented.
We need more of these videos online. There’s so much on new bikes no one can afford and all the expensive modifications and maintenance but so little is on the basics of good bike setup. So many people on the road have their bike set up so bad but they don’t know because you rarely get a chance to ride two identical bikes with two totally different setups to compare against. That’s why it’s so hard to figure out what works best because there’s little to compare your bike to unless you keep messing around with the settings each time you ride on the same road.
After going to Ron Haslems race school/ classes, it has saved me hundreds on tyres. When you see him and the instructors on sport touring rubber. You got to ask why do I need these other tyres which last 1000 plus miles LESS. Great upload 👍thank you
Went up to the supermarket on the bike after going softer on compression damping on the front and rear on my MT10SP, a lot better no jarring through the bars. So thanks for that Mr Neeves
Incredibly valuable information in this video.... and I cant think of a time I've ever seen a video done properly on this subject, from someone who knows what they're talking about... thanks 🙌
Amazing. Went in the garage last night and had to tinker - you are bang on about the levers, and adjusting them to your liking. Thank you. Please continue with this - lets do some Q&A like Simon Crafar is doing, help us get through this lockdown.
My new (at the time) 2015 GSX-R750 NEEDED the suspension adjustment and ECU tuning just to be RIGHT. I also upgraded the adjustable rear axle adjuster and extended 12-15mm (depending on the day (Temps, route, tire pressure, etc) and that thing handled like a damn dream. Anyone with a K5 and up needs to do this. Example of how bad factory Suzuki ECUs are.. after my tune (ignition and fuel with full bolt-ons and no cat) I made as much to the wheel as a factory Gixxer 1000.
I agree with pretty much everything, with a few small caveats. I generally find it's better to run tire pressures a bit lower in the rear than in the front. Pressures depend on the carcass construction, but generally I go 32-34 rear, and 34-36 front. I'll put more in the rear if I'm just doing commuting though for longevity. I fully agree that people drop their pressures too much on the road. Everything you said is correct about how on the track the COLD pressures are lower because the tires are meant to heat up which increases the pressures. But one thing people don't often realize is that you get much *less* grip when your pressures remain too low. It's not just lazy steering; The tires end up deflecting, compressing, and then bouncing back. Not only does this wear the tires out many times faster, this quick flexing creates a cavitation effect that makes the tire unstable. It will wallow around alot, and can even give a feeling like rebound is too fast, when really it's the tire flexing and rebounding too much. It's a really bad situation. Basically, big thumbs up pointing that one out. You can drop your pressures a *little* if you're going to be maintaining a healthy clip on a back road, but I'm talking a couple PSI, max.
Agree with almost everything said, apart form what was said about tire pressures. I have found that lower tire pressures help stop the tires prematurely wearing. My rides typically involve a 40 mile freeway ride to where the good roads start and when I first got my R1M myself and other were aghast at the tire wear from cold shearing and from wearing flat on the rear. I only had 400 miles on my first rear when it started to flatten out noticeably. I found that my wear problems stopped largely by running 5psi or so low front and rear. It feels like they might warm a bit quicker too, but to be fair the RS10’s are pretty good even cold. Did the same on a set of S21’s on my GSXR and they lasted 3 seasons-finally down to the wear bars. The Super Corsa Whatever’s on the EBR1190RS (not RX, the RS was a Bucket List bike for me)I just got might get the same treatment once I get used to them and set the chassis up. Hope you’re doing well in the UK (was born near RAF Lakenheath), things are quite bad here in Detroit, we can still ride as a recreational activity but the economy simply vanished. Best regards, Dave
Thanks for taking the time to do this. While I may not have learned anything new, this was a great confirmation that what I've been doing for years is right, not only in my own eyes but also someone like yourself who is a professional.
Ive personally found that under "normal" conditions the brake lever is better closer to the throttle, however I have it farther away because I found that if I have to do an emergency brake where I have to react quickly ,my fingers were caught by the lever as I was trying to "roll off" and then get on the brake as quickly as possible.As I ride through the winter and have thicker gloves on, having the lever farther than nearer is best for me.
I would say adjusting the angle of the clutch and brake levers so they fit under my fingers better was a huge improvement for me, and it took 2 minutes to do.
Great advice Neevsey. I knew nothing about bikes when I got my first and luckily spoke to a dealer who had a workshop and helped me with the suspension set up as I'm very tall and heavy. Thanks for tips with levers and gear position. My wrists hurt on long journey's and I just came to expect that being that I ride a sports bike but that just might save me a bit of pain.
. . . also adjust the handle bars mm perfect until they feel right for your riding style & arm length, then adjust levers accordingly. Makes a World of difference.
As far as tire pressures it’s good to go with the tire manufacturers recommendations if they make them available. Dunlop’s Q3+ lists them at 32/32ish F/R.
Plus if your brake lever is too high you have to make an accelerating action with your wrist to enable your fingers to operate the lever, potentially causing you to accelerate into a braking situation, not good. Great video
Re front brake lever - I've always preferred my lever further out as I feel particularly with mediocre braking setups like an R1 it can make the master cyl'r feel firmer as I prefer a firmer brake lever as opposed to a spongy feel. I ride in the int-adv groups on track and typically the hardest on the brakes into corners (an amateur K.Schwantz so to speak haha)
My old '07' KTM 990 Superduke recommends 34psi front & rear. I live in the Italian mountains & run Supercorsa SPs. Normally run 33 front 32 back, & can get a wiggle on nae bother. 34 front 30 back on my local track in Modena. Stay safe thanks for all the vids. FatBoy.
Really interesting comment about brake levers. I wouldn't say I'm a fast rider but I'm not slow when I want to be. Braking is an area I'm not as confident as everything else though. I used to do 2 stroke kart racing and I know from that how easy it is to make mistakes when you're really pushing. I don't race/ go as quick as I can on the road for that reason and I find it really difficult to judge what's an appropriate amount of braking on the road. Might try putting the lever in a click just see if it makes any difference once we're allowed back outside
This is what you get with years of unbiased experience, having been paid to do a job objectively. Not the uninformed ramblings you get from far too many a vlogger who just seems excited to have a free bike to use and is out to make content for contents sake.
Interesting point about the brake lever. Mine tends to need more travel though on e the brakes heat up? 2000 honda cbr600fy. 12 previous owners! Got dirt cheap not long ago and is finally getting some tlc!
If you've nothing better to do, as prep for riding season have a go at thoroughly bleeding your brakes , and if it's been a few years, perhaps a wholesale change of brake fluid as well
can you explain more about gear shift location... how to adjust it corectly? I got yamaha MT10SP, and i'm dancing during my quickshift gear changes... which is not fun :(
Re tire pressure, I've always used what the bike manufacturer recommends, not the tire maker. That can change though after suspension changes are made.
Great video! Maybe my fav from you. Can u do a video only about suspension, and how they affect the sport bike. No body is doing that. I gave up and took the 2021 R-1 to a high level shop, $80 plus tip. Hoping to fix my problem. dropped the bike with 138 miles on it. Dropped in rear of truck, right handle grip bar end made impact with truck wheel well. Wheel well has lined n its 3 inch up from actually touching and took some impact too. Now the bike just wont flick, bike feels stuck straight up n harder to flick n undependable when flicked, might go to far by a bit. Also when u sitting on it n spinning handlebars around, theres a clicking noise. Sucks, it was a sick bike, to me it trash now.
Lots of great advice. On my recent bike (Tracer GT like in the video) says 2.5 bar 1 up and 2.9 2 up, I keep it at 2.7 because i do alot of highway on my own, and ride with the miss around town. You think this figures are good? I'm 65 kilos dressed up, miss is around 55kg. I use Michelin PR3. Thanks!
“Trail Braking...” that put my FS1-E into a left hand bend field in 1975. Sadly I’ve never learnt any different 😩😩😩 But I will be bringing the brake lever in closer on my current ride. Well you’ve got to start somewhere!
Great video Mr Neeves. I have some questions though. Thanks in advance for clarifying. I have a Japanese bike and keep my tyre pressures at manufacturers specs, but I'm probably twice as heavy as the average Japanese rider. Should I adjust tyre pressures due to my excessive weight or is there negligible difference?
36psi front, 42psi rear. It’s more important that you check your tyre pressures regularly than getting them right for your weight. Riding will tell you whether they feel correct with experience. This is my opinion, nothing more.
Neeves, what you think about the tire Mitas Sport Force +? I am running one on the rear of my MT09, and hope to do a track day this year. On the front i have bt016, because there was still 70% life on them.
Any chance you could explain how to go down on the knee for tall pilots ( 6’3”) as probably it will be bit different then for short ones. Is it possible for a tall guy to drag a knee??
No profanity, no criticism of other journalists- just solid facts and guidance. 25 years of experience in a 17 minute video ! Thank you Neevsey.
Neeves has been generous of late. Seems like he's in a point in his life where he has no fear of competition. Just giving back mood.
Fantastic Michael. After 50 years on a bike I’ve picked up most of this but so good to have it all confirmed by a pro in one simple, down-to-earth video. The silver lining to the Covid19 cloud. Look forward to more like this.
As always, brilliant layman terms that everyone can understand... Love your reviews and input Neevesy!
Thank you. So calm, so all knowing but gentle. Man, I like your style of passing on knowledge, deep knowledge. Honest. Broadly experienced, not selling anything. Awesome video.
Heard TMF mentioning this guy quite a bit, but never really seen him. Now I know why. I've watched a few videos of late (I'm sure we all have!!), and this guy is top notch in his knowledge and presentation. This stuff is gold dust to those who were not born on a bike (you know who you are!). I for one appreciate the information and the easy way it is presented.
That was years of experience in 16 minutes. Amazing.
We need more of these videos online. There’s so much on new bikes no one can afford and all the expensive modifications and maintenance but so little is on the basics of good bike setup. So many people on the road have their bike set up so bad but they don’t know because you rarely get a chance to ride two identical bikes with two totally different setups to compare against. That’s why it’s so hard to figure out what works best because there’s little to compare your bike to unless you keep messing around with the settings each time you ride on the same road.
What an excellent guide based on proven experience, top tips from a top guy! 👍👍
Love listening to people who actually know their stuff. Thanks Michael.
Watching 6 months of motorcycle vids this was honestly the most useful to me
Hey Mike,
Yeh, he's good. Hava look at MCRider, and Mike on Bikes, & DDFM, I think they all hav gr8 advice and r helpful
👍🙂🌈🛵
setting your handlebars by rotating them really helps too on some bikes. especially on everything you ride offroad with.
Appreciate the veteran wisdom. Always good to have a refresher early in the season for me in the USA. Thanks again.
Neeves so relaxed and calm, man continue with this series, any info you give is valuable to us. :)
Thanks for posting. Proud owner of a UK spec 918 FireBlade! Watching this in Guyana, South America.
One of the more likeable motorcycle reviewers on youtube ...
After going to Ron Haslems race school/ classes, it has saved me hundreds on tyres. When you see him and the instructors on sport touring rubber. You got to ask why do I need these other tyres which last 1000 plus miles LESS. Great upload 👍thank you
Great advice from the Don 👍
Gday old chop fancy seeing u here
Went up to the supermarket on the bike after going softer on compression damping on the front and rear on my MT10SP, a lot better no jarring through the bars. So thanks for that Mr Neeves
Lots of great wisdom here. All motorcyclists should watch, listen and take to heart the information here! thank you
This video is gold. Every bit of it is useful and informative. Total respect for doing this.
Love Neevesys videos. More please. Also love all MCN videos. Great they took time in lockdown to educate and entertain us.
Excellent advice. You should consider doing a garage section on your vlogs. Found this great advice 👍
Mark Kelly completely agree! Need more this style vids.
This was a great little bit! I’m sure many will appreciate this.
Incredibly valuable information in this video.... and I cant think of a time I've ever seen a video done properly on this subject, from someone who knows what they're talking about... thanks 🙌
Good info for any rider beginner or experienced
Neevsey keeping it 💯 real no bs no willy waving just saying it how it is 👏👏
Amazing. Went in the garage last night and had to tinker - you are bang on about the levers, and adjusting them to your liking. Thank you. Please continue with this - lets do some Q&A like Simon Crafar is doing, help us get through this lockdown.
I truly appreciate your insight, Neeves! It's like you are my personal coach, and your knowledge is very helpful and on point. Thank you.
Very informative stuff, thanks. Recently discovered your reviews and I love them. Good man.
My new (at the time) 2015 GSX-R750 NEEDED the suspension adjustment and ECU tuning just to be RIGHT. I also upgraded the adjustable rear axle adjuster and extended 12-15mm (depending on the day (Temps, route, tire pressure, etc) and that thing handled like a damn dream. Anyone with a K5 and up needs to do this.
Example of how bad factory Suzuki ECUs are.. after my tune (ignition and fuel with full bolt-ons and no cat) I made as much to the wheel as a factory Gixxer 1000.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience so clearly and concisely. 🙏🏼👏💚
Great video! Definitely some useful nuggets of information
Great information. Really appreciate the content and the delivery!
I agree with pretty much everything, with a few small caveats.
I generally find it's better to run tire pressures a bit lower in the rear than in the front. Pressures depend on the carcass construction, but generally I go 32-34 rear, and 34-36 front. I'll put more in the rear if I'm just doing commuting though for longevity.
I fully agree that people drop their pressures too much on the road. Everything you said is correct about how on the track the COLD pressures are lower because the tires are meant to heat up which increases the pressures.
But one thing people don't often realize is that you get much *less* grip when your pressures remain too low. It's not just lazy steering; The tires end up deflecting, compressing, and then bouncing back. Not only does this wear the tires out many times faster, this quick flexing creates a cavitation effect that makes the tire unstable. It will wallow around alot, and can even give a feeling like rebound is too fast, when really it's the tire flexing and rebounding too much. It's a really bad situation.
Basically, big thumbs up pointing that one out. You can drop your pressures a *little* if you're going to be maintaining a healthy clip on a back road, but I'm talking a couple PSI, max.
Excellent stuff...nice and straightforward, no BS 👍
This is an excellent video Neevesy
Really helpful for a newbie. Thanks
Thanks for sharing that hard earned knowledge with us all Neevesy. Be nice to be able to go out and put into practice once lockdown is over 😀
Yep excellent advice for someone like me who's only been riding for just over 1 year
Many thanks for this superb checklist. One for the archives. Best. G.
Thanks Neevesy, very helpful. Stay safe.
Agree with almost everything said, apart form what was said about tire pressures. I have found that lower tire pressures help stop the tires prematurely wearing. My rides typically involve a 40 mile freeway ride to where the good roads start and when I first got my R1M myself and other were aghast at the tire wear from cold shearing and from wearing flat on the rear. I only had 400 miles on my first rear when it started to flatten out noticeably. I found that my wear problems stopped largely by running 5psi or so low front and rear. It feels like they might warm a bit quicker too, but to be fair the RS10’s are pretty good even cold.
Did the same on a set of S21’s on my GSXR and they lasted 3 seasons-finally down to the wear bars. The Super Corsa Whatever’s on the EBR1190RS (not RX, the RS was a Bucket List bike for me)I just got might get the same treatment once I get used to them and set the chassis up.
Hope you’re doing well in the UK (was born near RAF Lakenheath), things are quite bad here in Detroit, we can still ride as a recreational activity but the economy simply vanished. Best regards, Dave
Awesome Video Michael, I genuinely do not think there is anyone out there with more Motorcycle knowledge than you! Respect!...😊👍
Thanks for taking the time to do this. While I may not have learned anything new, this was a great confirmation that what I've been doing for years is right, not only in my own eyes but also someone like yourself who is a professional.
Ive personally found that under "normal" conditions the brake lever is better closer to the throttle, however I have it farther away because I found that if I have to do an emergency brake where I have to react quickly ,my fingers were caught by the lever as I was trying to "roll off" and then get on the brake as quickly as possible.As I ride through the winter and have thicker gloves on, having the lever farther than nearer is best for me.
Thank you for your service to humanity. 🙂👍
What a nice little insight into being a bike journalist.
I would say adjusting the angle of the clutch and brake levers so they fit under my fingers better was a huge improvement for me, and it took 2 minutes to do.
Thank you! Amazing to listen to you, great advice!
Great tips. Thank you. What luggage did you have on the BMW?
very informative and educative Neevesy, thanks a lot.
Brilliant information from Mr Neeves, straight to the point and it is good to hear from someone who knows what they are talking about.
You the man Neevesy, geezer 🤛
All the “Fast Boys” are going to be riding about with their brake levers hard up against the glove, because “Neevesy says racers do that”😂
Yeah I found it funny as I have long fingers..
@@boydjeffery7672 as do i. But not all are as blessed as we few.🤣
He forgot to mention that a ton of those 'quick' individuals have aftermarket brake parts xP
Close to the bar for more squeeze then shove stubby levers on 🤔🤭🤪
Waaaaaaaaaa Mi-A-Dead 🤣🤣🤣🫣 #FuRR-Real 🤌🏾
Great advice Neevsey. I knew nothing about bikes when I got my first and luckily spoke to a dealer who had a workshop and helped me with the suspension set up as I'm very tall and heavy. Thanks for tips with levers and gear position. My wrists hurt on long journey's and I just came to expect that being that I ride a sports bike but that just might save me a bit of pain.
. . . also adjust the handle bars mm perfect until they feel right for your riding style & arm length, then adjust levers accordingly. Makes a World of difference.
I really enjoyed this, thank you. I hope to see more like this. Maybe tips for touring?
Great video.. Anyone know what make/model the tank and tail bags are on the BMW S1000RR??
As far as tire pressures it’s good to go with the tire manufacturers recommendations if they make them available. Dunlop’s Q3+ lists them at 32/32ish F/R.
Plus if your brake lever is too high you have to make an accelerating action with your wrist to enable your fingers to operate the lever, potentially causing you to accelerate into a braking situation, not good.
Great video
Re front brake lever - I've always preferred my lever further out as I feel particularly with mediocre braking setups like an R1 it can make the master cyl'r feel firmer as I prefer a firmer brake lever as opposed to a spongy feel. I ride in the int-adv groups on track and typically the hardest on the brakes into corners (an amateur K.Schwantz so to speak haha)
My old '07' KTM 990 Superduke recommends 34psi front & rear. I live in the Italian mountains & run Supercorsa SPs. Normally run 33 front 32 back, & can get a wiggle on nae bother. 34 front 30 back on my local track in Modena. Stay safe thanks for all the vids. FatBoy.
I have my brake lever somewhat far out but I have big hands. Never had an issue trail braking 🤷🏽♂️
Fantastic, again.
Thanks mate, good tips on levers
Great advice🥳 and at a time lots of us might have the time at hand since they can't use their bike because of isolation restrictions. 🥺
Great video..helped me out alot
Excellent. Love your work. thanks.
Great advice 👌 thank you
Really interesting comment about brake levers. I wouldn't say I'm a fast rider but I'm not slow when I want to be. Braking is an area I'm not as confident as everything else though. I used to do 2 stroke kart racing and I know from that how easy it is to make mistakes when you're really pushing. I don't race/ go as quick as I can on the road for that reason and I find it really difficult to judge what's an appropriate amount of braking on the road.
Might try putting the lever in a click just see if it makes any difference once we're allowed back outside
This is what you get with years of unbiased experience, having been paid to do a job objectively. Not the uninformed ramblings you get from far too many a vlogger who just seems excited to have a free bike to use and is out to make content for contents sake.
Excellent as always 👍🏻
Good advice all over. I agree on every point, way of thinking.
Really informative clip...these topics are always interesting to hear from experts that have the amount of seat time that you do sir
Truly the voice of experience
Interesting point about the brake lever. Mine tends to need more travel though on e the brakes heat up? 2000 honda cbr600fy. 12 previous owners! Got dirt cheap not long ago and is finally getting some tlc!
If you've nothing better to do, as prep for riding season have a go at thoroughly bleeding your brakes , and if it's been a few years, perhaps a wholesale change of brake fluid as well
Excellent vid. Best bike journo by miles - the biker's Chris Harris.
can you explain more about gear shift location... how to adjust it corectly? I got yamaha MT10SP, and i'm dancing during my quickshift gear changes... which is not fun :(
Amazing content, top man
Re tire pressure, I've always used what the bike manufacturer recommends, not the tire maker. That can change though after suspension changes are made.
Great video! Maybe my fav from you. Can u do a video only about suspension, and how they affect the sport bike. No body is doing that. I gave up and took the 2021 R-1 to a high level shop, $80 plus tip. Hoping to fix my problem.
dropped the bike with 138 miles on it. Dropped in rear of truck, right handle grip bar end made impact with truck wheel well. Wheel well has lined n its 3 inch up from actually touching and took some impact too. Now the bike just wont flick, bike feels stuck straight up n harder to flick n undependable when flicked, might go to far by a bit. Also when u sitting on it n spinning handlebars around, theres a clicking noise. Sucks, it was a sick bike, to me it trash now.
Good pointer and I like
Leavers close as it’s Easier to modulate until you trap your 3finger on a emergency braking 😱
What is the best sports tour tires for the ninja 1000 sx in your opinion chief?
Lots of great advice. On my recent bike (Tracer GT like in the video) says 2.5 bar 1 up and 2.9 2 up, I keep it at 2.7 because i do alot of highway on my own, and ride with the miss around town. You think this figures are good? I'm 65 kilos dressed up, miss is around 55kg. I use Michelin PR3. Thanks!
“Trail Braking...” that put my FS1-E into a left hand bend field in 1975. Sadly I’ve never learnt any different 😩😩😩
But I will be bringing the brake lever in closer on my current ride. Well you’ve got to start somewhere!
Phil B FS1-E .....now that brings back memories 🤣
Excellent video!!
Thank you
More of this wisdom please while most of us have too much time on our hands.
I always adjust the lever angle too only I can never find the 10mm socket.
Also make sure gearing is standard if going back to stock
Great video Mr Neeves. I have some questions though. Thanks in advance for clarifying.
I have a Japanese bike and keep my tyre pressures at manufacturers specs, but I'm probably twice as heavy as the average Japanese rider.
Should I adjust tyre pressures due to my excessive weight or is there negligible difference?
36psi front, 42psi rear. It’s more important that you check your tyre pressures regularly than getting them right for your weight. Riding will tell you whether they feel correct with experience. This is my opinion, nothing more.
Neeves, what you think about the tire Mitas Sport Force +?
I am running one on the rear of my MT09, and hope to do a track day this year.
On the front i have bt016, because there was still 70% life on them.
It IS nice from time to time. Well said.😎
Very useful video mate much appreciated it ✌️
Bloody good. Thanks !!
Any chance you could explain how to go down on the knee for tall pilots ( 6’3”) as probably it will be bit different then for short ones. Is it possible for a tall guy to drag a knee??
Solid advice
Nice one thanks to neevsey!
Thank you this was very helpful