Taeho, great job as usual! The jig is great. I've been reading Des King's books and wondering where I could get a set of these planes. But Des did say they were expensive. When the project is complete I would like to see dimensions, types of wood used for each pattern and which cells the pattern was used in. I am no where near your level. But I plan to make a much smaller test grid and make a few of each pattern and make all the jigs. Then make the entire panel. I can't find the word to tell you how excited I am to start this project! And as expected I have a few questions. . At 12:09 you are cleaning the kerf out using a small hand saw. Looks like a different saw. Do I need one or will my SUIZAN 8 Inch Ultra Fine Cut Dozuki Dovetail do the trick? . LOVE THE JIG!!! Big time and money saver. Are you using the same jig on both the Purple Heart and the maple? How deep is the cut into the Purple Heart and maple or how much did you leave for bending? . The mitering blocks... I see you using several different styles. With and without dovetail on the bottom. Ones with front and back fences to the channel (U shape) and some with one fence to the channel (L shape). I really like the ability to cut 3 pieces at once. Which block type do you find the most useful? Please post the plans for sale and at least a tip jar. After all of your work you deserve something.
Thanks Jim, The final dimension will be up for sure in Part 10. The last two patterns will be the GRAND FINALE of this series. It's going to be very rare Kumiko patterns. Trying out a smaller grid for each pattern is a great idea. I will cover the hand saw in Part 10 or Part 11. Thanks for the compliment on the jig. You'll need to cut to the very end where you can see the light coming through. I'll point it out in Part 10. For the mitering blocks, I've found out, you don't need the sliding dovetail for the solid white oak. It is heavy enough and doesn't move. But you will need it if you're going to make it out of softwood like poplar. Vern first made it with Poplar and he needed it to clamp it down to the workbench. The plans will be available in both digital or actual size hard copy. It should be ready in about two weeks. Thanks again,
@@WoodArtStudio1 Thanks Taeho. After my posting above I went back and viewed video #1 again and that helped a lot. The largest round blade I have is the 10" in my SawStop which will give just a hair over 3" in cut. So I better go with the 3x3x12 inch blocks are you suggested for people that do not have a 12" miter saw. A friend has a 12" but as you pointed out the angled surface needs to be refreshed from time to time. Another reason to go with 3x3 that I can refresh in my shop. Thanks for the popular tip. I'll use white oak.
Thanks, 3x3 with about a 2" channel would be good. I forgot to answer one of your questions about L-shape or U-shape. If I would like to make it again, I would make it to 3"x3" with U-shape. Being able to cut 3 at a time is a plus. But sometimes, on a tiny piece, the chisel would work better, but the L-shape is not capable of using the chisel since it doesn't have the backrest for the cutting piece.
When sawing almost through these smaller parts, I just do a few strokes with the saw to mark the spot, then put the saw in a vise. Holding the wood against the saw with a little bending pressure, I saw until I can feel the wood bending. Seems almost flawless to me, lots fewer cut-throughs or pieces that need a bit more sawing. Thanks for this series. I've done a few lamps with kumiko, but am looking forward to going through this series. Thanks again, Phil Martin
Taeho you deserve my whole respect for this work. I cant get enough from your videos of making Kumiko. Jim W wrote a bit down below that it would be nice if we could donate you some tip for making this awsome kumiko-series. I and im sure many other people are full of hope that this would not be the last Kumiko Series. Thanks for your work and warm greets from Switzerland.
Thanks so much!! I am trying to become a full-time RUclipsr based on woodworking. I'm not looking to explode on my channel, just enough to make living out of it. So, I can just focus on designing and making furniture.
inspirational ..... this will be quite a journey ....... it seems amazing that you work and cut on that board on top of the partly completed Kumiko panel... fantastic work!!!!
Hello, amazing Wood working. I am very intérested and impressed.. can you tell where did you purchase the 30° router bit you are using on your jig at 4:20. Thanks for all those pictures.
Taeho this continues to be one of the great delights in my life- my goal is to replicate it in 2021. So much to learn- not the least of which is to convert your work to metric! I am dreading we are getting close to the end with episode 10 coming up. It’s been a great journey
Thank you, Phil. I think everyone will love the last two patterns I'm going to make as a Grand Finale of this series. Just three more episodes. Then, I can't wait to go on to my next series.
Hi Taeho, very nice video series! I've been looking for alternatives for the ha-ganna and your router jig is a very nice solution! I'll definitely give the router a try. I've been making the kawari asanoha from 9 individual pieces all cut on a jig which is way too much of a hassle (especially the small triangle) for making larger screens. Keep up the great videos and beautiful kumiko work!
Thank you so much! I hope the router jig works out for you. ^^ I just had to come up with an easier and faster way to make it. And also to work on the hardwoods.
Hi Taeho, I saw your reply to my comment in video 8 telling me about the router table jig/sled coming in this one. Not having funds for a set of ha-ganna in my budget, I had already encountered the need for such a jig and built a small router table with both vertical and horizontal capabilities for, of all things, an old discontinued Dremel Trio. I found a 1/8" collet adapter for it and am using 1/8" CNC engraving bits to make the wee cuts in those tiny kumiko pieces. I wish I had seen this video prior to building that table. Thanks, as always, for all that you share with us. I'm 72 years old and have only 6 months experience in making kumiko so I try to use all the fresh Ideas I find. I'm no longer the brightest bulb in the chandelier but at least my bulb is still burning. ;-) Thanks ever so much.
Hi Taeho. Thanks for another great installment. I am curious where you purchased the 120 degree router bit you show at 9:10 minutes into this video. Thanks for any help.
Thanks Jason, I've purchased the bit from www.toolstoday.com it's made by Amana. However, you need to sharpen the tip to make it to a perfect v point. I'm going to cover more on the router bits on Part-10.
@@sueyates2106 Thank you. The purple Heart will be oxidized in a day to one week on its own by exposing it to air only. When you first cut, it's usually brown/greyish, then change back to purple. However, you can use acetone and dry it in the sun method to speed up the process.
@@WoodArtStudio1 once again thanks for your advice - have managed to get some purple heart from a local supplier and have gone down the self oxidising process which is working well - will keep in touch
Taeho, great job as usual!
The jig is great. I've been reading Des King's books and wondering where I could get a set of these planes. But Des did say they were expensive.
When the project is complete I would like to see dimensions, types of wood used for each pattern and which cells the pattern was used in.
I am no where near your level. But I plan to make a much smaller test grid and make a few of each pattern and make all the jigs. Then make the entire panel. I can't find the word to tell you how excited I am to start this project!
And as expected I have a few questions.
. At 12:09 you are cleaning the kerf out using a small hand saw. Looks like a different saw. Do I need one or will my SUIZAN 8 Inch Ultra Fine Cut Dozuki Dovetail do the trick?
. LOVE THE JIG!!! Big time and money saver. Are you using the same jig on both the Purple Heart and the maple? How deep is the cut into the Purple Heart and maple or how much did you leave for bending?
. The mitering blocks... I see you using several different styles. With and without dovetail on the bottom. Ones with front and back fences to the channel (U shape) and some with one fence to the channel (L shape). I really like the ability to cut 3 pieces at once. Which block type do you find the most useful?
Please post the plans for sale and at least a tip jar. After all of your work you deserve something.
Thanks Jim,
The final dimension will be up for sure in Part 10. The last two patterns will be the GRAND FINALE of this series. It's going to be very rare Kumiko patterns.
Trying out a smaller grid for each pattern is a great idea.
I will cover the hand saw in Part 10 or Part 11.
Thanks for the compliment on the jig. You'll need to cut to the very end where you can see the light coming through. I'll point it out in Part 10.
For the mitering blocks, I've found out, you don't need the sliding dovetail for the solid white oak. It is heavy enough and doesn't move. But you will need it if you're going to make it out of softwood like poplar. Vern first made it with Poplar and he needed it to clamp it down to the workbench.
The plans will be available in both digital or actual size hard copy. It should be ready in about two weeks.
Thanks again,
@@WoodArtStudio1 Thanks Taeho. After my posting above I went back and viewed video #1 again and that helped a lot. The largest round blade I have is the 10" in my SawStop which will give just a hair over 3" in cut. So I better go with the 3x3x12 inch blocks are you suggested for people that do not have a 12" miter saw. A friend has a 12" but as you pointed out the angled surface needs to be refreshed from time to time. Another reason to go with 3x3 that I can refresh in my shop.
Thanks for the popular tip. I'll use white oak.
Thanks, 3x3 with about a 2" channel would be good.
I forgot to answer one of your questions about L-shape or U-shape. If I would like to make it again, I would make it to 3"x3" with U-shape. Being able to cut 3 at a time is a plus. But sometimes, on a tiny piece, the chisel would work better, but the L-shape is not capable of using the chisel since it doesn't have the backrest for the cutting piece.
@@WoodArtStudio1 Good point about the small pieces and chisel. Thanks again.
👍👍👌
When sawing almost through these smaller parts, I just do a few strokes with the saw to mark the spot, then put the saw in a vise. Holding the wood against the saw with a little bending pressure, I saw until I can feel the wood bending. Seems almost flawless to me, lots fewer cut-throughs or pieces that need a bit more sawing.
Thanks for this series. I've done a few lamps with kumiko, but am looking forward to going through this series. Thanks again, Phil Martin
Beautiful work. Even the router jig is a work of art
Thank you very much! Now the plan is available on my website.
glad you found a better method. amazing job like always👍✨
Thank you! 😊
Beautiful work
Thank you! 👍👍
Taeho you deserve my whole respect for this work. I cant get enough from your videos of making Kumiko. Jim W wrote a bit down below that it would be nice if we could donate you some tip for making this awsome kumiko-series. I and im sure many other people are full of hope that this would not be the last Kumiko Series. Thanks for your work and warm greets from Switzerland.
Thanks so much!! I am trying to become a full-time RUclipsr based on woodworking. I'm not looking to explode on my channel, just enough to make living out of it. So, I can just focus on designing and making furniture.
This is so inspiring
Thanks!! 👍👍👍
All 9 videos are amazing. Thank you so much for sharing !
Thanks so much!!! Really appreciated.
Beautiful and perfect job again. The new tool is ingenious. Thank you
Thanks so much, You'll see what more this jig can do on Part 10. Thanks again and stay tuned.
Beautiful and inspiring work!
Thank you so much!😃
inspirational ..... this will be quite a journey ....... it seems amazing that you work and cut on that board on top of the partly completed Kumiko panel... fantastic work!!!!
Thank you always for your compliments. ^^ 👍👍🙏
so much detail! 😍
Thank you! 😊
Hello, amazing Wood working. I am very intérested and impressed.. can you tell where did you purchase the 30° router bit you are using on your jig at 4:20.
Thanks for all those pictures.
Thank you so much!!! I've purchased the bits from Toolstoday. www.toolstoday.com/v-13395-ams-129.html
@@WoodArtStudio1 thank you very much
Taeho this continues to be one of the great delights in my life- my goal is to replicate it in 2021. So much to learn- not the least of which is to convert your work to metric! I am dreading we are getting close to the end with episode 10 coming up. It’s been a great journey
Thank you, Phil. I think everyone will love the last two patterns I'm going to make as a Grand Finale of this series. Just three more episodes. Then, I can't wait to go on to my next series.
Hi Taeho, very nice video series!
I've been looking for alternatives for the ha-ganna and your router jig is a very nice solution!
I'll definitely give the router a try. I've been making the kawari asanoha from 9 individual pieces all cut on a jig which is way too much of a hassle (especially the small triangle) for making larger screens.
Keep up the great videos and beautiful kumiko work!
Thank you so much! I hope the router jig works out for you. ^^ I just had to come up with an easier and faster way to make it. And also to work on the hardwoods.
Hi Taeho, I saw your reply to my comment in video 8 telling me about the router table jig/sled coming in this one. Not having funds for a set of ha-ganna in my budget, I had already encountered the need for such a jig and built a small router table with both vertical and horizontal capabilities for, of all things, an old discontinued Dremel Trio. I found a 1/8" collet adapter for it and am using 1/8" CNC engraving bits to make the wee cuts in those tiny kumiko pieces. I wish I had seen this video prior to building that table. Thanks, as always, for all that you share with us. I'm 72 years old and have only 6 months experience in making kumiko so I try to use all the fresh Ideas I find. I'm no longer the brightest bulb in the chandelier but at least my bulb is still burning. ;-) Thanks ever so much.
Thanks Michael, I just went to your Facebook and saw your jig and some of your work. It's great!!
Taeho, I saw you had visited my page. I am honored that you took the time to do so. Thank you very much.
You're very welcome. It seems like you have mastered most of the Kumiko patterns already. 👍👍
Hi Taeho. Thanks for another great installment. I am curious where you purchased the 120 degree router bit you show at 9:10 minutes into this video. Thanks for any help.
Thanks Jason, I've purchased the bit from www.toolstoday.com it's made by Amana. However, you need to sharpen the tip to make it to a perfect v point. I'm going to cover more on the router bits on Part-10.
I love this - I am intrigued by the purple wood, what is it ?
Thanks, Dave, the purple wood is called Purple Hearts.
@@WoodArtStudio1 thank you for the information, I find your work inspirational. Do you buy your Purple Heart wood ready oxidised and cut?
@@sueyates2106 Thank you. The purple Heart will be oxidized in a day to one week on its own by exposing it to air only. When you first cut, it's usually brown/greyish, then change back to purple. However, you can use acetone and dry it in the sun method to speed up the process.
@@WoodArtStudio1 once again thanks for your advice - have managed to get some purple heart from a local supplier and have gone down the self oxidising process which is working well - will keep in touch
good
멋있어요~ ^_^
고마워... 🙏🙏
❤❤❤❤
👍👍👍
Thanks^^ 😃
The more I do the further behind I get.
😆 🤣 😂
05:05 👎