Ron, Thank you for putting together all of the S.B.P.O. videos which I find are informative and enjoyable. I look forward to watching and learning more.
Ron, Thank You for doing these videos. It encouraged me to buy a vintage ski boat (not that I needed a 3rd boat) a 1981 Ski Supreme with 401 hours. Boat runs perfect, but noticed 2 of the engine mount bolts turn by hand which means rotted stringer (UGH) but feeling good at replacing them this winter since wathching your videos. Also plan on buying most parts from your business. We are in NH
Hi Ron, Thank you again for these videos. My 86' Malibu floor is so rotten that it cannot be used again. What type of material do you suggest for the floor replacement?
Which brand high density foam board did you use for the stringer replacement? And why did you sandwhich 2 smaller thicnkess rather than 1 board of the thickness required? Thanks Ron, this series was awesome. Working on a 1990 Baja Sk 200 following your series. Will definitely be buying some parts soon!
We used COOSA brand core, I probably used 2 scraps we had rather than cutting into a full sheet. Any time you use foam board for stringers you need to make considerations for any thru-bolted items, or anything screwed into the core, they have poor screw retention compared to wood.
I was curious to know how you removed the foam from the boat hull? I presently have an aluminum boat and I am using a drywall saw and a putty knife to remove chunks of saturated foam. Did you use a chemical to remove the residue that’s left? Thanks
Can you post the rough amount of hours work on the boat that goes into each restoration video? I think the compressed sequence videos and years of experience may mask the shear effort involved in this work.
Well let me try to answer that. I have "billable hours", actual hours, and accumulated time on each project. Accumulated time is the easy one, the day the boat begins and the day the project is completed. This project started 2/23/18 Actual Hours are the "Man-Hours" spent on the project with different rates between my time and my shop help time. This does not include curing time, time working on other projects, time I spend on the phone with customers, time I spend packing, shipping parts orders etc. I average around 3-5 hours a day with parts alone. Billable hours are broken down into specific phases like assessment & basic tear down, int. removal, eng. removal, and Pres. washing. On this job that came to 7.5 hrs and I always tend to bill a lot less than my actual time (hope my wife doesn't read that part) Many of my customers will do this over the course of an off season, they buy misc. parts from us and I give them unlimited support via phone/email at no charge. Currently I am doing this with a 1987 Ski Supreme, an older Ski Tique, a 1979 Ski Nautique, and a 1984 MasterCraft, all watching the videos and duplicating much of what I am doing. Not sure if this helps but it's time for me to finish glassing up the floor so we can re-foam the boat tomorrow. The biggest thing that you don't see is the amount of glass dust we generate and clean every day, my grand-kids know this as "itchy-dust" Thanks, RonT
Ron, Thank you for putting together all of the S.B.P.O. videos which I find are informative and enjoyable. I look forward to watching and learning more.
Ron, Thank You for doing these videos. It encouraged me to buy a vintage ski boat (not that I needed a 3rd boat) a 1981 Ski Supreme with 401 hours. Boat runs perfect, but noticed 2 of the engine mount bolts turn by hand which means rotted stringer (UGH) but feeling good at replacing them this winter since wathching your videos. Also plan on buying most parts from your business. We are in NH
Great work my friend. Quality video one of the best
Ron, Thank you for the great videos, you are an inspiration. Do you have a video on full stringer replacement? my 1990 Ski Centurion is in need.
Super appreciate your video. I am about to start a quick floor board restoration to my 1985 2001.
Really enjoying series. You are a True craftsman 👍
Yup agreed with previous comments! Great work I love my 89 advance
Hi Ron, Thank you again for these videos. My 86' Malibu floor is so rotten that it cannot be used again. What type of material do you suggest for the floor replacement?
Most common is Marine grade 1/2" plywood, then resin coat the bottom & top & add fiberglass to the topside and tie it to the hull sides.
Which brand high density foam board did you use for the stringer replacement? And why did you sandwhich 2 smaller thicnkess rather than 1 board of the thickness required? Thanks Ron, this series was awesome. Working on a 1990 Baja Sk 200 following your series. Will definitely be buying some parts soon!
We used COOSA brand core, I probably used 2 scraps we had rather than cutting into a full sheet. Any time you use foam board for stringers you need to make considerations for any thru-bolted items, or anything screwed into the core, they have poor screw retention compared to wood.
I would appreciate any wisdom you have gained.
I was curious to know how you removed the foam from the boat hull?
I presently have an aluminum boat and I am using a drywall saw and a putty knife to remove chunks of saturated foam. Did you use a chemical to remove the residue that’s left? Thanks
I am not aware of any chemical that would dissolve the foam & not damage the the resins, I get creative with various hand tools to dig it out
nice video, after replacing the floors and securing them down do you fiber glass the entire new wood or just the seams? thanks Ron !
The Seams AND the entire floor going up the hull side 3-4" and down the inside stringer if possible 4-6"
Thanks Ron, do you recommend using the 1808 mat or the CSM on your website for the floors.
CSM works, but 1808 is substantially stronger, CSM is really a filler with little structural benefit, 1808 is structural
7:15. The wood turned into dust and was distributed back to the cosmos.
Can you post the rough amount of hours work on the boat that goes into each restoration video? I think the compressed sequence videos and years of experience may mask the shear effort involved in this work.
Well let me try to answer that. I have "billable hours", actual hours, and accumulated time on each project. Accumulated time is the easy one, the day the boat begins and the day the project is completed. This project started 2/23/18
Actual Hours are the "Man-Hours" spent on the project with different rates between my time and my shop help time.
This does not include curing time, time working on other projects, time I spend on the phone with customers, time I spend packing, shipping parts orders etc. I average around 3-5 hours a day with parts alone.
Billable hours are broken down into specific phases like assessment & basic tear down, int. removal, eng. removal, and Pres. washing. On this job that came to 7.5 hrs and I always tend to bill a lot less than my actual time (hope my wife doesn't read that part)
Many of my customers will do this over the course of an off season, they buy misc. parts from us and I give them unlimited support via phone/email at no charge. Currently I am doing this with a 1987 Ski Supreme, an older Ski Tique, a 1979 Ski Nautique, and a 1984 MasterCraft, all watching the videos and duplicating much of what I am doing.
Not sure if this helps but it's time for me to finish glassing up the floor so we can re-foam the boat tomorrow.
The biggest thing that you don't see is the amount of glass dust we generate and clean every day, my grand-kids know this as "itchy-dust"
Thanks, RonT