Best video I've seen on this type of job, it will help me no end. Thank you very much and god bless people like you that take the time to make these videos 🤘
I've found in the past that it helps if the hacksaw is a little blunt, a new blade tends to snag on the armour. If I have to fit a nee blade I give it a few strokes on a curb stone to blunt it slightly before use.
Great video, clear and very explanative. Impressed with the detail. I too amalgamate, the amount of rusted through Wire armour I have come across. Isn’t going stop it 100%, gland cover isn’t designed to be waterproof but tape Helps alot I’ve forgot my junior a few times. discovered by trial an adjustable pipe slice actually works very well. Good practice on Lining up the faces on the nuts too, same play here. It’s just like leaving screw slots horizontal on fittings. The Finishing touches👌
.....and I've been using a pipe cutter for years now, makes a perfect cut everytime. Cuts through the oversheath, and perfectly scores the armour. Generally much faster than using a junior hacksaw. From 10mm to 50mm 3, 4 or 5 core SWA.
Awesome, thank you, Gary. Yes, I was an SE Spark for 8 years and I have a friend who runs a 50 strong contracting firm (they do all sorts, but specialise in modular buildings).
Well described methodology. One item I recommend is to take off the inner sheath before fixing gland to unit as it ie easier to get a clean cut on the inner sheath outside of the unit. Quite agree about junior hacksaw vs cutter. 👌🇬🇧
This was filmed on my own install for my garden bar cum office. It wasn't untill I got into editing I realised I missed filming removing the inner sheath❗ Blast❗ Apologies to all, but I wasn't gonna take it all back apart for that little bit. But yeah I agree, remove the inner sheath before assembling the gland to the cable. There are better cutters available now, but they are pro level cost, so not really a DIY proposition
I’m not a sparky but am electrically qualified. Likewise this is exactly how I was shown by somebody who WAS a sparky some years ago but I wanted a refresher befor I fit my garden lights and sockets.
personally I prefer to use a 3 core cable and use one of the conductors as the earth continuity conductor. I'm not keen on relying on the steel armour for the earth conductor. More expense on the cable of course. However, I feel it's a safer method irrespective of the regs.
There's nothing in the regulations that stop you using a 3rd core; a separate CPC can be run in parallel as long as it's wholly contained in the same ferromagnetic enclosure (i.e. the amour) as the line conductors of the same circuit (521.5.1). The armour still has to be bonded at both ends regardless (523.201). You may be in fact _forced_ to use a 3rd core as well if the armour in itself doesn't have a sufficient copper-equivalent cross-sectional area (CSA) (543.1.3).
One of the very first jobs I had when I first went self employed was to refurbish a garden lighting set up. It was 'urgent' because it needed to be ready for a large family gathering. Every box had water in and was corroded and it was constantly tripping the house RCD. 16 years later, I still see him walking the dog occasionally and reports that my work is still going strong. There are many ways to skin a cat and some would do things a little different. Thanks for sharing
@@danesumner4684 It's a matter of choice and it was not "electrical tape" anyway (whatever that is) - it was self amalgamating tape. But why would you want to let your sheath fill with water and dirt if you can stop it happening? Personally I think it makes it look 'finished'.
I’ve got to do this tomorrow and my stomach is churning. I’ve fitted the outside socket and now need to attach the armoured cable to my shed!! I’m not gonna get much sleep tonight..
What a perfect video! Far better than what I saw a few years ago which were helpful but not as crystal clear. Will refer to it later in summer when I adjust some cables before calling on registered sparkie to do what I'm not allowed to
Awesome, thank you! A point of order though Stephen: there is nothing you are "not allowed" to do. The Law (via Part P of the Building Regulations), requires anyone working on electrical installations to be "competent" to do so. The same applies to gas installations. This is particularly true for maintenance of existing equipment. There is much misunderstanding about this amongst "the public", and organisations such as NIC and Gas Safe are disingenuous to the public and are trying to run a "closed shop" under a "flag of convenience" called 'safety'.
@@AbouttheHouse0 Hi, so I've got 6mm T&E from the consumer unit to a box on an external wall. So I'm thinking extending this and run power into a shed. I've heard Wago connectors are best for joining cable
@@MatthewPlunkett several points from your question: 1. T&E [exposed] on an external wall is very poor. The 'elements' will soon render the sheath useless. Keep it as short as possible and try to remount it in plastic conduit. 2. extend with either 3 core H07RN-F or SWA (it'll have to be swa if it's going to be buried) 3. Yes, you can use 'Wago-type' connectors. They are suitable whether the connections remain accessible or not. 4. if you can get suitable crimping pliers the very best method is to use 6mm crimp butts and insulate with heat shrink or self amalg tape. 5. if the connections are to remain accessible (in a wall box for example), you could use 32A choc blocks. Overlap the conductors so each is under both screws 6. Be sure to use a box with a screw on lid and not just a press-on lid! phewee, HTH PS you've given me an idea - I might do a video on mechanical cable joints
@@AbouttheHouse0 thanks very much for you comprehensive reply - much appreciated. Just to clarify, the T&E is not exposed, it comes out the wall straight into an IP rated box. Certainly given me a few options - cheers. Looking forward to your future videos!
A lot of sites I have worked on don't fit the shroud. It holds water which works up past the rear seal of the gland through capillary action then rots the armouring. Also the moisture can get into the insulation and cause a fault. Before anyone comments I am a time served electrician with 30+ years in heavy industry so have seen the aforementioned faults.
Right there with you, fella. A 5 star comment. ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ That's exactly why I put some self amalgamating tape on the cut end of the shroud. If it's an exceptionally wet area (eg a pond installation) I've sometimes wrapped a layer of self amalg along the whole gland before putting the shroud on. My experience of water leaks in vehicles is very similar. Water can get into all sorts of places and it doesn't need big holes. I've seen harnesses wound so tight that capillary action takes water almost the whole length of a vehicle before depositing it somewhere 'critical'. This is also why any self respecting installer would have a cpc core - rotted armour does not make for a good 'earth'❗
@@AbouttheHouse0 water ingress has been a big issue on a lot of outdoor faults I have dealt with over the years. Doesn't matter what you do it gets in.
a nylon or fibre washer at gland entry to maintain the IP of the containment would be advisable along with some silicon on the fabric fixing screws, try making the swa off without a work mate vice.
@@AbouttheHouse0 I did yesterday, and external and internal glad following your tips and worked great. I did however fit the standard earth ring as I didn't have the nuts you recommend. I need to now get the ring eye? to attached a earth cable too
Late to the party but excellent. I now use a hacksaw rather than pliers. But, ive always wondered: how can these glands be ip66 rated when theres no seal on the enclosure locknut? Use of self amalg will help this but ive always wondered if i should use mastic around the gland before putting into a box.
I think you just answered my question. It's permissible to run the SWA cores through the wall to an internal junction box by stripping the SWA cabling a long enough length.
YES. Strip the armour back as far as you need and treat the inner cable like it's a piece of tough flex. You still need to connect the armour to earth though!!
Just had a look. A much better engineered product than the Blade Runner. I gave up Sparking 7 years ago now and they weren't available then. if I were still practising, I'd probs get one. Thanks 👍 This is it if anyone is interested: amzn.to/2RibYKd
Thanks! Where does the copper wire from the banjo terminate? Should it meet with the inner earth core of the swa to the circuit you're connecting to? Or to the junction box housing?
That yellow tool, Bladerunner - you should spin it in the opposite direction, not towards the the jaw opening but towards the back of the tool. It's a bit counter-intuitive at first, but that tool designed to work that way - look on the directional arrow. Makers of that cutter should had made instructions more clear because people even break that tool trying to force it to work back to front, as it happened to myself.
Dear can you help me when install cable gland the cone and the armour ring are not engaged after cable gland tightening and disassembling however the outer seal is fully clothed over the cable iuter jacket & the cable is not extractable from the gland with hand tension please advise
I am running swa from pond area back to consumer unit in the garage. Where the cable penetrates through the wall I was going to terminate swa into an ip66 box, then connect to normal 2.5mm t&e through the wall. Seems like a better option than threading the stripped swa into the house. Does that make sense ?
Ive moved away from my electrician background, but watched your video as a reminder. When I made off SWA cables 30 years ago, there were copper wires in the armour that we used as earth connections at both ends. We would take the copper ‘armour’ through the gland and connect to an earth bar. Are cables now constructed without these earth conductors?
SWA (now) has no copper mixed in with the armour. The armour is galv steel wire. It is permissible to use the armour as the cpc, though I always made sure to have a cpc in the main conductors and earth the armour at both ends, in case of damage to the armour
Why do they kick you off for twisting cable to open up the armours ? Been doing this for years and never encountered a problem. Do they ask you to pry them open by hand only?
@@pvegod1484 No supposed to pry them off with a screwdriver. Because there's so much shite cable out there, twisting can actually cut into inner sheath The reason for not using grips is because they Mark the gland. Be Lucky A
@@pvegod1484 No worries we've all done stuff not supposed to, but a right bastard getting kicked off a 2 grand job over something silly. Ps Stanley knives also really big no no.
Thanks very much all well to the point. I did this in 30min after a battle with the middle and wedding ring tightened over the wires. Does the earth need to connect to socket and out of socket to the earth nut?
hi saw the artisan electrician use the pipe cutter to score the armoured it looked to work but god know how much it cost, he looked to have expensive gear
Great content! Thank you. One question, is it legal for diyers to carry out this sort of jobs outdoors? i.e. notifiable or not etc. I’m a diyer myself thinking about fitting my own garden lights.
Too many loose parts in CMP glands, if you fit off a CCG captive component gland CW the cone & cone ring is held captive so you don’t loose any parts & far quicker to fit off
Have you worked on a petro-chem plant? Not all equipment can be installed with plastic glands, even if they do meet the standards such as IP. Some glands have yet another internal seal, to stop gas creepage along the cable and into the enclosure.
@@007floppyboy your input is appreciated, but your point is moot. Anyone working in such a location should be qualified to do so without having to watch my video. This video is not aimed at such Professionals, but at DIYers and 'improvers'.
@@AbouttheHouse0 I think you have me wrong, I was referring to the "Swa glands belong in the dark ages....." statement from andrew thomas. ie SWA glands, DO NOT belong in the dark ages. Sorry for confusion. Some plastic glands do meet high specs such as EXia but only for very specific cables.
If the armour slice had been available while I was still a practicing Spark, I'd probably have got one. I do think it's a pro tool though, DIYers might just as well stick to the saw method.
I just wanted to say thank you for a clear, well thought out, and well-presented video. These SWA fittings are no longer a mystery.
You are welcome!
Really helped me with fitting a SWA gland which I had never done before. Clear and concise.
Very clear and concise explanation, everything explained simply with no time filler or other nonsense. Great video.
Outstanding clip.
Clear concise and knows what he is talking about 👍
I learnt from the best. An excellent foundation for teaching others.
Thank you so much. That was very well paced, super clear and in a matter of minutes, passed on years of experience as a professional.
You're very welcome!
Absolutely brilliant video! Answers all my questions... Even the positioning and considering water tightness of the joint. Excellent! :)
So pleased you found it helpful.
Great explanation … with no Faff. …well done
Many thanks!
@@AbouttheHouse0 did you do the video on self amalgamating tape ….you mentioned one.
@@rickhughes954 well reminded. I'd forgotten, but will get one done soon
Best video I've seen on this type of job, it will help me no end.
Thank you very much and god bless people like you that take the time to make these videos 🤘
Great video. Clear direct explanations and great diagrams to make it even clearer. Thank you.😀
I've found in the past that it helps if the hacksaw is a little blunt, a new blade tends to snag on the armour. If I have to fit a nee blade I give it a few strokes on a curb stone to blunt it slightly before use.
I've never noticed this problem myself, but I'm sure others will find this useful. Thanks for sharing
Great video, clear and very explanative. Impressed with the detail. I too amalgamate, the amount of rusted through Wire armour I have come across. Isn’t going stop it 100%, gland cover isn’t designed to be waterproof but tape Helps alot
I’ve forgot my junior a few times. discovered by trial an adjustable pipe slice actually works very well.
Good practice on Lining up the faces on the nuts too, same play here. It’s just like leaving screw slots horizontal on fittings. The Finishing touches👌
I was expecting a amateur video when Infact it’s a professional job . Well done
Thanks, Andy. 👍
I think it should be regs to use a 3 core cable for earth connection safety. And bond the SWA at each termination.
I agree, *unless* you're supplying a TT system
Excellent, really clear and informative 👍
.....and I've been using a pipe cutter for years now, makes a perfect cut everytime. Cuts through the oversheath, and perfectly scores the armour. Generally much faster than using a junior hacksaw. From 10mm to 50mm 3, 4 or 5 core SWA.
Great tip, thanks for sharing
Excellent content, instructions and delivery. Thank you very much.
You're very welcome!
Great video and seem like a real pro!
Excellent. Clear and concise, and some great tips based on real experience. Subscribed.
Awesome, thank you, Gary. Yes, I was an SE Spark for 8 years and I have a friend who runs a 50 strong contracting firm (they do all sorts, but specialise in modular buildings).
Good point- the conical or bevelled side of olive should meet the cone
Great video, excellent detailed explanation~ No substitute for experience
Thank you
Well described methodology. One item I recommend is to take off the inner sheath before fixing gland to unit as it ie easier to get a clean cut on the inner sheath outside of the unit. Quite agree about junior hacksaw vs cutter. 👌🇬🇧
This was filmed on my own install for my garden bar cum office. It wasn't untill I got into editing I realised I missed filming removing the inner sheath❗ Blast❗ Apologies to all, but I wasn't gonna take it all back apart for that little bit. But yeah I agree, remove the inner sheath before assembling the gland to the cable.
There are better cutters available now, but they are pro level cost, so not really a DIY proposition
Very clear and thorough explanation. Thank you.
What a super video - thanks for taking the time.
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent ,exactly what I was looking for.Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience
You are welcome!
Thank you so much for an easy to follow and informative professional video.
Thanks, glad it was useful. Do you think more videos about SWA would go down well (how to select and how to install etc)❓
@@AbouttheHouse0 Yes I think they would be very helpful.
Thank you for your video! Really helpful.
Thanks. Would you like to see more leccy related vids?
@@AbouttheHouse0 yes please!!
@mihaiepr in this I show how to *properly* fit a plug! ruclips.net/video/IVICx8hlfgQ/видео.html
This is really useful thank you. Did you do a video of wiring up the fcu inside the box?
I’m not a sparky but am electrically qualified.
Likewise this is exactly how I was shown by somebody who WAS a sparky some years ago but I wanted a refresher befor I fit my garden lights and sockets.
💡👍
Very nice video!!!
Thank you! Cheers!
Wow this video teaches me a lot.. I really do appreciate this. I can't wait to watch your next video
personally I prefer to use a 3 core cable and use one of the conductors as the earth continuity conductor. I'm not keen on relying on the steel armour for the earth conductor. More expense on the cable of course. However, I feel it's a safer method irrespective of the regs.
There's nothing in the regulations that stop you using a 3rd core; a separate CPC can be run in parallel as long as it's wholly contained in the same ferromagnetic enclosure (i.e. the amour) as the line conductors of the same circuit (521.5.1). The armour still has to be bonded at both ends regardless (523.201). You may be in fact _forced_ to use a 3rd core as well if the armour in itself doesn't have a sufficient copper-equivalent cross-sectional area (CSA) (543.1.3).
Thank you nice and tidy work!!🤗
Thank you.
I'm a sparky and when I saw the title of the vid I thought oh no, here we go! BUT that was spot on, couldn't have done it any better myself.
One of the very first jobs I had when I first went self employed was to refurbish a garden lighting set up. It was 'urgent' because it needed to be ready for a large family gathering. Every box had water in and was corroded and it was constantly tripping the house RCD. 16 years later, I still see him walking the dog occasionally and reports that my work is still going strong.
There are many ways to skin a cat and some would do things a little different.
Thanks for sharing
I wouldn’t have put the electrical tape on because you’ve already made it weather proof by using the CW gland and it looks rough.
@@danesumner4684 It's a matter of choice and it was not "electrical tape" anyway (whatever that is) - it was self amalgamating tape.
But why would you want to let your sheath fill with water and dirt if you can stop it happening? Personally I think it makes it look 'finished'.
I’ve got to do this tomorrow and my stomach is churning. I’ve fitted the outside socket and now need to attach the armoured cable to my shed!! I’m not gonna get much sleep tonight..
@@danesumner4684Lol it’s self amalgamating tape, he even said it in the video. Ps we call it insulating tape not electrical tape.
Super video, very clear and easy to follow, thank you
Thank you Asim. Glad you liked it.
What a perfect video! Far better than what I saw a few years ago which were helpful but not as crystal clear. Will refer to it later in summer when I adjust some cables before calling on registered sparkie to do what I'm not allowed to
Awesome, thank you! A point of order though Stephen: there is nothing you are "not allowed" to do. The Law (via Part P of the Building Regulations), requires anyone working on electrical installations to be "competent" to do so. The same applies to gas installations. This is particularly true for maintenance of existing equipment.
There is much misunderstanding about this amongst "the public", and organisations such as NIC and Gas Safe are disingenuous to the public and are trying to run a "closed shop" under a "flag of convenience" called 'safety'.
Great video and the tips were really handy too. Thanks
Thanks, Matthew. Are you installing an SWA? Shed, bar, workshop?
@@AbouttheHouse0 Hi, so I've got 6mm T&E from the consumer unit to a box on an external wall. So I'm thinking extending this and run power into a shed. I've heard Wago connectors are best for joining cable
@@MatthewPlunkett several points from your question:
1. T&E [exposed] on an external wall is very poor. The 'elements' will soon render the sheath useless. Keep it as short as possible and try to remount it in plastic conduit.
2. extend with either 3 core H07RN-F or SWA (it'll have to be swa if it's going to be buried)
3. Yes, you can use 'Wago-type' connectors. They are suitable whether the connections remain accessible or not.
4. if you can get suitable crimping pliers the very best method is to use 6mm crimp butts and insulate with heat shrink or self amalg tape.
5. if the connections are to remain accessible (in a wall box for example), you could use 32A choc blocks. Overlap the conductors so each is under both screws
6. Be sure to use a box with a screw on lid and not just a press-on lid!
phewee, HTH
PS you've given me an idea - I might do a video on mechanical cable joints
@@AbouttheHouse0 thanks very much for you comprehensive reply - much appreciated. Just to clarify, the T&E is not exposed, it comes out the wall straight into an IP rated box. Certainly given me a few options - cheers. Looking forward to your future videos!
@@MatthewPlunkett that's good then. How are you planning to install the submain? Bury, clip direct or catenary?
Thank you so much. Very good vedio
Very helpful, thank you....Job done with you help !
Very useful information. Thanks alot
Brilliant video, Thank You
Glad you enjoyed it
good stuff. a junior hack saw may be good for the odd job but it can't beat a good ck scoring tool I'm using doing lots of swa fo lv rooms!
great video -just the ticket - thanks
A lot of sites I have worked on don't fit the shroud. It holds water which works up past the rear seal of the gland through capillary action then rots the armouring. Also the moisture can get into the insulation and cause a fault. Before anyone comments I am a time served electrician with 30+ years in heavy industry so have seen the aforementioned faults.
Right there with you, fella. A 5 star comment. ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
That's exactly why I put some self amalgamating tape on the cut end of the shroud. If it's an exceptionally wet area (eg a pond installation) I've sometimes wrapped a layer of self amalg along the whole gland before putting the shroud on.
My experience of water leaks in vehicles is very similar. Water can get into all sorts of places and it doesn't need big holes. I've seen harnesses wound so tight that capillary action takes water almost the whole length of a vehicle before depositing it somewhere 'critical'.
This is also why any self respecting installer would have a cpc core - rotted armour does not make for a good 'earth'❗
@@AbouttheHouse0 water ingress has been a big issue on a lot of outdoor faults I have dealt with over the years. Doesn't matter what you do it gets in.
a nylon or fibre washer at gland entry to maintain the IP of the containment would be advisable along with some silicon on the fabric fixing screws, try making the swa off without a work mate vice.
The best waterproof accessories have a soft rubber surround co-molded into the box. A good suggestion though. Thanks for sharing
brilliant tutorial
Thank you, Tyler. Are you doing an install of your own?
@@AbouttheHouse0 I did yesterday, and external and internal glad following your tips and worked great. I did however fit the standard earth ring as I didn't have the nuts you recommend. I need to now get the ring eye? to attached a earth cable too
Late to the party but excellent. I now use a hacksaw rather than pliers. But, ive always wondered: how can these glands be ip66 rated when theres no seal on the enclosure locknut? Use of self amalg will help this but ive always wondered if i should use mastic around the gland before putting into a box.
Excellent content this was
Hello sir very nice imformation...i like your job...i like big this proper DIY..💛👋👋✌👍🤝🙏👏👇
So nice of you, dodz 👍
Good job
Thanks 👍
I think you just answered my question. It's permissible to run the SWA cores through the wall to an internal junction box by stripping the SWA cabling a long enough length.
YES. Strip the armour back as far as you need and treat the inner cable like it's a piece of tough flex. You still need to connect the armour to earth though!!
Not acceptable under BS7671 as inner covering is not classed as a sheath...even though it happens a lot
Can’t beat the CK armoured wire strippers
Just had a look. A much better engineered product than the Blade Runner. I gave up Sparking 7 years ago now and they weren't available then. if I were still practising, I'd probs get one. Thanks 👍
This is it if anyone is interested:
amzn.to/2RibYKd
Thanks!
Where does the copper wire from the banjo terminate? Should it meet with the inner earth core of the swa to the circuit you're connecting to? Or to the junction box housing?
Great video, thanks. I'm about to fit one. Does the earth cable from the gland nut go to the plug socket fascia or to the back box?
To the back box. Wire it so that if the earth comes out of the socket the armour is still connected (both ends)
Thank you
You're welcome
Good job no flapping about.
Thanks Alun
That yellow tool, Bladerunner - you should spin it in the opposite direction, not towards the the jaw opening but towards the back of the tool. It's a bit counter-intuitive at first, but that tool designed to work that way - look on the directional arrow. Makers of that cutter should had made instructions more clear because people even break that tool trying to force it to work back to front, as it happened to myself.
Yes, there's an arrow. That's the way I used it. The bladerunner is still crap.
Dear can you help me when install cable gland the cone and the armour ring are not engaged after cable gland tightening and disassembling however the outer seal is fully clothed over the cable iuter jacket & the cable is not extractable from the gland with hand tension please advise
Good video, hacksaw works better if you put the blade in backwards
Never thought of doing that myself. Thanks for the awesome tip.
omg that's such a good logical idea
I am running swa from pond area back to consumer unit in the garage. Where the cable penetrates through the wall I was going to terminate swa into an ip66 box, then connect to normal 2.5mm t&e through the wall. Seems like a better option than threading the stripped swa into the house. Does that make sense ?
Ive moved away from my electrician background, but watched your video as a reminder. When I made off SWA cables 30 years ago, there were copper wires in the armour that we used as earth connections at both ends. We would take the copper ‘armour’ through the gland and connect to an earth bar. Are cables now constructed without these earth conductors?
SWA (now) has no copper mixed in with the armour. The armour is galv steel wire. It is permissible to use the armour as the cpc, though I always made sure to have a cpc in the main conductors and earth the armour at both ends, in case of damage to the armour
Very good video. 👍 I have a different power cable running to my shed, it is legal and safe? It's twin and earth. Is this safe?
Do you need the earthnut if its fiited inside a plastic case? Or just if it's a metal case?
Very good for DIY but remember on site opening the swa by twisting and the use of water pump pliers, sacking offences 😃
That's 'cos sites want to keep subbies under the cosh. It's how they get away with underpaying them. No such worries when you're SE or DIY. 👍
Why do they kick you off for twisting cable to open up the armours ? Been doing this for years and never encountered a problem. Do they ask you to pry them open by hand only?
@@pvegod1484 No supposed to pry them off with a screwdriver. Because there's so much shite cable out there, twisting can actually cut into inner sheath
The reason for not using grips is because they Mark the gland. Be Lucky A
@@andrewfenn5287 ah right fair enough. Yeah have never used grips that is very true. Cheers
@@pvegod1484 No worries we've all done stuff not supposed to, but a right bastard getting kicked off a 2 grand job over something silly. Ps Stanley knives also really big no no.
Thanks very much all well to the point. I did this in 30min after a battle with the middle and wedding ring tightened over the wires.
Does the earth need to connect to socket and out of socket to the earth nut?
Yes, connect earth conductor direct to accessory and use a 'fly lead' to connect to earth nut. Connect the armour to earth at both ends if you can.
I am handling 25, 35 and 50 mmsq cable, so approx what length of armor should I leave to apply the cone to ?
Where do you get the earth cable?
The ring is slightly wider on one side and thinner on the other. Which side do you put facing towards the cone shape so the swa's can be trapped?
The ring is itself a short cone, so align it the same way the bigger cone goes
Top tip cut and put shroud/sheath on first
I've done a few where I put the gland together and forgot to put the shroud on. DOH❗ Putting the shroud on first can help eliminate this mistake. 👍
hi saw the artisan electrician use the pipe cutter to score the armoured it looked to work but god know how much it cost, he looked to have expensive gear
Great content! Thank you. One question, is it legal for diyers to carry out this sort of jobs outdoors? i.e. notifiable or not etc. I’m a diyer myself thinking about fitting my own garden lights.
Strictly speaking, outdoor work like this is notifiable. As these comments are public, I cannot risk encouraging you do do otherwise 😉
@@AbouttheHouse0 Outside work is not notifiable unless it is a completely new circuit
How to wire a outdoor light
Can you be a bit more specific on what you need to know and I'll look into making a video.
Too many loose parts in CMP glands, if you fit off a CCG captive component gland CW the cone & cone ring is held captive so you don’t loose any parts & far quicker to fit off
Useful info, thanks for sharing
❤
👍
Banjo on a plastic box is not now acceptable under BS7671
Earth nuts are the way forwards
Bloody hate doing SWA. The CK armour tool is decent for smaller cables but not great with the larger ones....
Before you start stick the shroud wrong way round over the cable, gives you a guide to cut it 😉
What a great tip. Thanks for sharing
Proper sparkies tip is this
Your blade runner only works 1 way? Follow the arrow.
Blade Runner was a great idea and certainly fullfilled a need, but was very poorly engineered. They simply fall apart.
تم
🎓👍
Step one.. put shroud on
allways put the waterproof hood on first, notice he fast forwarded to the sheath being fitted........
Swa glands belong in the dark ages.....
Why do you suggest that? And what would you do instead?
Have you worked on a petro-chem plant? Not all equipment can be installed with plastic glands, even if they do meet the standards such as IP.
Some glands have yet another internal seal, to stop gas creepage along the cable and into the enclosure.
@@007floppyboy your input is appreciated, but your point is moot. Anyone working in such a location should be qualified to do so without having to watch my video.
This video is not aimed at such Professionals, but at DIYers and 'improvers'.
@@AbouttheHouse0 I think you have me wrong, I was referring to the "Swa glands belong in the dark ages....." statement from andrew thomas.
ie SWA glands, DO NOT belong in the dark ages.
Sorry for confusion.
Some plastic glands do meet high specs such as EXia but only for very specific cables.
@@007floppyboy ah, right, I've got you now. I notice Andrew hasn't replied to my question about what to use instead.
Armour slice - amazon. You're welcome.
If the armour slice had been available while I was still a practicing Spark, I'd probably have got one. I do think it's a pro tool though, DIYers might just as well stick to the saw method.
Thank you
👍👍