EXT 34. External 34 cm including plywood skin, so, take off ply thickness (on WHY NOT? 4+6=10 mm) so 33 cm inboard is dimension of bulkhead under sheer clamps. of course this is a rough estimate but it guides you how much you spread the canoe in the center before you start making cardboard templates for the bulkheads. Make 1, then test it on other side of the boat, if need be, make second bulkhead a touch bigger/smaller for a perfect fit. I glued 2 small battens with PU then glued and screwed bulkheads to the battens, now fillet and fiberglass on other side.
SAIL. spars are 4 meters long 5x5 cm pine will be very strong, my boom is about 3x5 cm (a little thin, that's what I had and it works...) Round spars and taper them to 4cm if U have time and energy.... MAKE SURE THEY ARE CLEAN AND DON"T HAVE KNOTS! that's important, spruce is the best. Lay plastic sail on floor place spars over it, measure 4 meters between spar ends, or less, depends on plastic size. cut plastic big enough so it can be rolled twice round each spar. NOW, use duct tape to fix sail edge to spar, role spar round twice, screw a piece of thin wood 13x20 mm approx... onto spar to hold plastic. The thin strip will hold plastic no problem, 1 is screwed under boom and other over yard, that way wind will flow over with less drag.
MAST 3 METERS LONG. just forgot to mention.... BOW RAKE: first cut bottom. 2. cut sheer to windward top side. 3. put bottom on floor, get a couple friends and just put wall in place, follow your chine, start from the middle and hold them together till you reach the bow. 4. mark on wall where bottom ends. 5. a straight line from bottom to top plywood corner gives your rake. IMPORTANT.... now put exact same bevel on lee side. 2. now do the opposite, get the same friends, and hold lee wall over bottom STARTING AT THE BOW! run with it till you come to the middle, mark on wall where bottom ends. 3. cut a straight square cut from bottom corner up up sheer. DONE. your lee side is a bit shorter as it's more straight. But stem rake is exactly the same. VERY IMPORTANT.... stitch and glue is so brilliant that U cant mess up. all small imperfections get filled with fillets and you just cant go wrong. All d best, Balkan Shipyards.
I love this. As stupid as stupid can be. Really takes the mystery out of boat building. I live in Bali and see how native fisherman keep the old boats "jukung" and "perahu" going and it's all low tech and completely sea worthy.
Vaka 4.7 meters. Ama 3 meters. max beam 2.5 meters. Vaka max beam 40 cm at sheer. Mast 3 meters. Spars 4 meters. Sail tack angle 55 degrees. Akas 2.5 meters, notch them above sheer clamps, to allow gunnels to lock into akas 7mm notch is enough. Ama to Aka plywood risers 20 cm high with spruce spine in center, notch akas for them too. Now Lashings just hold everything together, but notches hold things in place!
Wow. Don’t know squat about boat building but.....hmmmm. I live near water.... what a great tease for dreamers. Lotta wives gonna be upset with you!! Haha. Fair winds in the Balkans
I think this is going to be my next build. Although I think it will be tacking instead of shunting (just used to tacking, so the first one will be tacking).
You know there is the rigging vid too: ruclips.net/video/vH0x-tZUMY0/видео.html Shunting is easy to learn, still a shunting Proa needs a canting mast, this concept is not perfect.... You can start with a tacking canoe and rerig later on..... What ever you do, Good luck bro. Lets build Proas! Keep Shunting, Balkan Shipyards.....
@@BalkanShipyards Yes! I think I will eventually set up a shunting rig, if only out of sheer morbid curiosity! But right now I just want something that I can get on the water (and that I can launch like a kayak).
@@DanielWilliams-oi4ss You will need more volume in the ama then, I was using a 4 meter 200 mm PVC pipe. For a tacking canoe, I would easily go to 250 mm. But shunting is so much fun! a good rig after a shunt, will point her up and sail slowly to windward on the new shunt, giving you all the time in the world to change over rudders what ever they are.... Tell u a secret, shunting canoes are simple to design, cos you don't think about where the mast will be, and what shape and volume you need for the bow and the stern... You just make it all the same. You just need an easy rig that shunts fast and easy. Crab Claws are good for a start, and with a canting mast, things work well, easy and fast. It's simple, shunters rule! Think about it.... Any questions, feel free.... Keep Shunting brother. Good Luck!
Why Not?........ If you make double bulkheads that you will bolt to each other, no problem. But why? if you can transport 4.5 meters and have where to keep it, it's much better, stronger, cheaper and simpler to build 1 long hull.......... Up ton you. Keep Shunting, BSY.
Brother, it's all in the video. just watch it again, you will get it. Welcome to Balkan Shipyards, home of the free style boat building...... we design, directly onto the plywood. All d best, Balkan Shipyards.
EXT 34. External 34 cm including plywood skin, so, take off ply thickness (on WHY NOT? 4+6=10 mm) so 33 cm inboard is dimension of bulkhead under sheer clamps. of course this is a rough estimate but it guides you how much you spread the canoe in the center before you start making cardboard templates for the bulkheads. Make 1, then test it on other side of the boat, if need be, make second bulkhead a touch bigger/smaller for a perfect fit. I glued 2 small battens with PU then glued and screwed bulkheads to the battens, now fillet and fiberglass on other side.
Thumbs up!! hope to see it sailing soon. you did a great job.
+Robb's Homemade Life
I was only having fun Rob..... jokes aside, I really was!
SAIL. spars are 4 meters long 5x5 cm pine will be very strong, my boom is about 3x5 cm (a little thin, that's what I had and it works...) Round spars and taper them to 4cm if U have time and energy.... MAKE SURE THEY ARE CLEAN AND DON"T HAVE KNOTS! that's important, spruce is the best. Lay plastic sail on floor place spars over it, measure 4 meters between spar ends, or less, depends on plastic size. cut plastic big enough so it can be rolled twice round each spar. NOW, use duct tape to fix sail edge to spar, role spar round twice, screw a piece of thin wood 13x20 mm approx... onto spar to hold plastic. The thin strip will hold plastic no problem, 1 is screwed under boom and other over yard, that way wind will flow over with less drag.
MAST 3 METERS LONG. just forgot to mention....
BOW RAKE: first cut bottom. 2. cut sheer to windward top side. 3. put bottom on floor, get a couple friends and just put wall in place, follow your chine, start from the middle and hold them together till you reach the bow. 4. mark on wall where bottom ends. 5. a straight line from bottom to top plywood corner gives your rake.
IMPORTANT.... now put exact same bevel on lee side. 2. now do the opposite, get the same friends, and hold lee wall over bottom STARTING AT THE BOW! run with it till you come to the middle, mark on wall where bottom ends. 3. cut a straight square cut from bottom corner up up sheer. DONE. your lee side is a bit shorter as it's more straight. But stem rake is exactly the same.
VERY IMPORTANT.... stitch and glue is so brilliant that U cant mess up. all small imperfections get filled with fillets and you just cant go wrong.
All d best, Balkan Shipyards.
Thank you for sharing your proa build.
Happy u like him, join us as we start our new HAVAYA 30, ocean cruiser. Keep Shunting Balkan Shipyards
Bottom width at center is 36 NOT 37 like in film, I just forgot, SORRY....
WATCH BUILDING SLIDESHOW for more details.
I love this. As stupid as stupid can be. Really takes the mystery out of boat building. I live in Bali and see how native fisherman keep the old boats "jukung" and "perahu" going and it's all low tech and completely sea worthy.
Thank you very much for sharing it, I will definitely build it.
Vaka 4.7 meters. Ama 3 meters. max beam 2.5 meters. Vaka max beam 40 cm at sheer. Mast 3 meters. Spars 4 meters. Sail tack angle 55 degrees.
Akas 2.5 meters, notch them above sheer clamps, to allow gunnels to lock into akas 7mm notch is enough. Ama to Aka plywood risers 20 cm high with spruce spine in center, notch akas for them too. Now Lashings just hold everything together, but notches hold things in place!
great stuff! I love your style!
Wow. Don’t know squat about boat building but.....hmmmm. I live near water.... what a great tease for dreamers. Lotta wives gonna be upset with you!! Haha. Fair winds in the Balkans
Yea, I wish I knew what I know now 20 years ago..... Anyone can build a boat! Good Luck!!
I think this is going to be my next build. Although I think it will be tacking instead of shunting (just used to tacking, so the first one will be tacking).
You know there is the rigging vid too: ruclips.net/video/vH0x-tZUMY0/видео.html Shunting is easy to learn, still a shunting Proa needs a canting mast, this concept is not perfect.... You can start with a tacking canoe and rerig later on..... What ever you do, Good luck bro. Lets build Proas! Keep Shunting, Balkan Shipyards.....
@@BalkanShipyards Yes! I think I will eventually set up a shunting rig, if only out of sheer morbid curiosity! But right now I just want something that I can get on the water (and that I can launch like a kayak).
@@DanielWilliams-oi4ss You will need more volume in the ama then, I was using a 4 meter 200 mm PVC pipe. For a tacking canoe, I would easily go to 250 mm. But shunting is so much fun! a good rig after a shunt, will point her up and sail slowly to windward on the new shunt, giving you all the time in the world to change over rudders what ever they are.... Tell u a secret, shunting canoes are simple to design, cos you don't think about where the mast will be, and what shape and volume you need for the bow and the stern... You just make it all the same. You just need an easy rig that shunts fast and easy. Crab Claws are good for a start, and with a canting mast, things work well, easy and fast. It's simple, shunters rule! Think about it.... Any questions, feel free.... Keep Shunting brother. Good Luck!
Great! That's what i want to build! Can it assimetric hull be detachable? May be three or two parts?
Why Not?........ If you make double bulkheads that you will bolt to each other, no problem.
But why? if you can transport 4.5 meters and have where to keep it, it's much better, stronger, cheaper and simpler to build 1 long hull.......... Up ton you.
Keep Shunting, BSY.
Thank you for sharing. What is the diameter and length of the PVC ?
u r welcome. 200 mm, 3 meters long. good luck with your build.
Keep shunting, Balkan Shipyards.
@@BalkanShipyards Thank you.
Hello, Any blueprint of the assymetric hull ?
Brother, it's all in the video. just watch it again, you will get it.
Welcome to Balkan Shipyards, home of the free style boat building...... we design, directly onto the plywood.
All d best, Balkan Shipyards.
Thank you man