I’m looking for a daddo set so I used your link to check your set out. The 8” set is on sale for less than the 6” but what you said about the smaller sets advantages make sense. Also trying to get some organization going on in my shop as well using my XL 5 head. I enjoy your videos. Thanks a lot. And happy new year to you.
What does “weaken the plastic over time” actually mean? This is a vague disclaimer that has zero substance. The worst case is that the threads will get a little looser in like 10 years if it has any effect at all.
Huh, good to know. I've been using it like that for years. I kinda agree with others, it seems like a vague disclaimer. 'Plastic' is such a broad term. But noted.
It would be cool to incorporate a gauge on the side so you could figure out what blades you need to bring to the saw. Hold your piece of stock that you want to match the width to and it gives you the correct blade and shim combo.
To go a little bit of different approach that might be good to do is change the lid into an enclosed container that has a flip open lid. ( the risk is some teeth would rest against the inside of the box) then mount on a French cleat type system. The alternative which is pretty much as you have it., is to make the base that attaches to board the same diameter (or slightly larger) as the lid. Then make a semicircular cleat (French cleat) that you have fixed to the board. Then you can pick up and take the whole enclosed dado container with you to your table or other worksite, then Unscrew and use.
This gives me help in designing a LED support for my friend. The first one was suppose to just support a wire similar to Christmas lights, but broke when trying to support an extension cord.
Thanks Robert. That was a very clever solution to a typical 3D printed part problem. I will definitely be incorporating those ideas in future designs. Happy New Year. Looking forward to more clever ideas in 2024 👍👍😎👍👍
The first thing that came to my mind was a library of blades. Each blade slot consists of a carriage that holds one blade around its edges, a tab+label around the top of the circumference, and a hinge point at the bottom right. You grab each tab you want for your stack the pull to the right. The carriages you just pulled to the right (around the hinge) now have all the blades you want and you can just grab them. Then you'd have to put the blades back in the appropriate slot when returning them. Probably not worth all of that since you don't use them much but fun to think about in my head!
I was actually talking to my dad about that the other day. He was thinking of a way to safely store saw blades. I like the idea of a 'binder' where you can flip through various blades and pull them out. I really only have a couple, so it wouldn't make sense for me. But if I ever get a larger collection, that would be on the list.
Cut down the bolt, thread on a quarter turn 3d printed adapter? The cover doesn't need to withstand a lot of force, might make it a bit more usable rather than twisting on and off. Or, as someone else pointed out, magnets! Clever design, love that it keeps it covered and clean.
Yeah, there are probably some tweaks. I think a screw-on piece that keeps the blades in place and then a magnetic cover would be ideal. That way you have a bigger surface area for magnets and for the cover. BUT, I probably won't use this again for 6 months, so it's fine for now ;-)
I print in place and also run a tap. The way it prints the threads there is more meat around the threads versus just a hole without adding a ton of walls all around.
I was going to show my machine arm for my CNC router. It's all PLA and holds ~50 pounds worth of cantilevered weight. It hasn't sagged in 2 years now. I think it just depends on how you are spreading out weight.
@@RobertCowanDIY There is some sort of change happening to the PLA i have been using. It grows a slight yellow tinge with time and becomes harder and more brittle, with fine crazing around pressure spots. I don't want prints that degrade over time if i can avoid it, and i haven't had any trouble with my PETG and HIPS prints.
@@SianaGearzI think it depends on the application? I've had good luck with mine over the years. I have a print outside, west-facing that sees intense sun and it's held up great after ~4 years now? It doesn't have constant load or stress, but it's still doing its thing. If it had any sort of load on it, I wouldn't have used PLA.
Thanks for nice video! Just one tip for a huge improvement... Next time use magnet to hold the cover. It must be a pain in the ass to screw and unscrew it all the way all the times! 😉
That's not a bad idea. I was probably focusing too much on the 'tutorial' aspect of it. I wonder if a magnet would hold it tightly enough though. I might try it.
Or a separate knob/nut with a clearance hole in the cover so you don't have to spin the whole thing, less risk catching the blades and pulling them off when spinning the cover.
I’m looking for a daddo set so I used your link to check your set out. The 8” set is on sale for less than the 6” but what you said about the smaller sets advantages make sense. Also trying to get some organization going on in my shop as well using my XL 5 head. I enjoy your videos. Thanks a lot. And happy new year to you.
Oh yeah. But 6" just seems to run better on smaller saws. Cheers!
If you read the fine print on Tap-Magic, it says not to use on plastic. The solvents used will weaken the plastic over time.
What does “weaken the plastic over time” actually mean? This is a vague disclaimer that has zero substance. The worst case is that the threads will get a little looser in like 10 years if it has any effect at all.
Huh, good to know. I've been using it like that for years. I kinda agree with others, it seems like a vague disclaimer. 'Plastic' is such a broad term. But noted.
It would be cool to incorporate a gauge on the side so you could figure out what blades you need to bring to the saw. Hold your piece of stock that you want to match the width to and it gives you the correct blade and shim combo.
To go a little bit of different approach that might be good to do is change the lid into an enclosed container that has a flip open lid. ( the risk is some teeth would rest against the inside of the box) then mount on a French cleat type system.
The alternative which is pretty much as you have it., is to make the base that attaches to board the same diameter (or slightly larger) as the lid. Then make a semicircular cleat (French cleat) that you have fixed to the board. Then you can pick up and take the whole enclosed dado container with you to your table or other worksite, then Unscrew and use.
What about using a strong magnet to keep the cover on? that slides slightly over the middle.
Nice idea adding the bolt! I'll keep that in my pocket for the future.
This gives me help in designing a LED support for my friend. The first one was suppose to just support a wire similar to Christmas lights, but broke when trying to support an extension cord.
Yeah, adding fasteners really helps with rigidity and is easy and cheap!
I 3D print a lot of things for woodworking. Almost all my dust collection or vacuum adapters alone makes a 3D printer worth it.
Same! It's great for that purpose. I don't really do much woodworking, but every time I have a project, I find myself printing a few things for it.
I would like to see this thing now how much it deformed
The 2 filaments actually look better than homogeneous material
Agreed. I probably should have done a different color on the top of the lid. But I've already forgotten about this project ;-)
Thanks Robert. That was a very clever solution to a typical 3D printed part problem. I will definitely be incorporating those ideas in future designs. Happy New Year. Looking forward to more clever ideas in 2024 👍👍😎👍👍
Thanks!
The first thing that came to my mind was a library of blades. Each blade slot consists of a carriage that holds one blade around its edges, a tab+label around the top of the circumference, and a hinge point at the bottom right. You grab each tab you want for your stack the pull to the right. The carriages you just pulled to the right (around the hinge) now have all the blades you want and you can just grab them. Then you'd have to put the blades back in the appropriate slot when returning them. Probably not worth all of that since you don't use them much but fun to think about in my head!
I was actually talking to my dad about that the other day. He was thinking of a way to safely store saw blades. I like the idea of a 'binder' where you can flip through various blades and pull them out. I really only have a couple, so it wouldn't make sense for me. But if I ever get a larger collection, that would be on the list.
@@RobertCowanDIY probably a vinyl record concept to borrow from
3D printing and woodworking go together like lamb and tuna fish
Um, never cook for me, OK?
@@RobertCowanDIY spaghetti and meatball? You like that analogy better? (It's a quote from the 1999 classic Big Daddy)
@@therick0996I honestly don't remember that one. I just thought you were stroking out or something. Good to know ;-)
Cut down the bolt, thread on a quarter turn 3d printed adapter? The cover doesn't need to withstand a lot of force, might make it a bit more usable rather than twisting on and off. Or, as someone else pointed out, magnets! Clever design, love that it keeps it covered and clean.
Yeah, there are probably some tweaks. I think a screw-on piece that keeps the blades in place and then a magnetic cover would be ideal. That way you have a bigger surface area for magnets and for the cover. BUT, I probably won't use this again for 6 months, so it's fine for now ;-)
Nice dust collection
Ha, thanks! It's nice but I need to run more ducts.
cool design!
Thanks!
I print in place and also run a tap. The way it prints the threads there is more meat around the threads versus just a hole without adding a ton of walls all around.
Yeah, that's probably better. I've had good luck with my method, but print in place threads will give more walls as you said.
Great idea
Thanks.
second
First
Why not use a single piece print for the dado blade holder? You could still tap the cylinder part while it’s part of the base.
Think about the assembly. With a hex-head bolt, there would be no way to tighten it against the central post.
@@RobertCowanDIY ok I figured you had a good reason to do it this way.
@@MrDksmallYeah. If using a socket head bolt, you wouldn't need the two pieces, but I was just using what I had on hand.
Very cool print
Thanks.
PLA is just.. nice.
It prints nicely but i have had numerous of my prints fail after 2-4 years. I only print functional things in PETG and HIPS now.
I was going to show my machine arm for my CNC router. It's all PLA and holds ~50 pounds worth of cantilevered weight. It hasn't sagged in 2 years now. I think it just depends on how you are spreading out weight.
@@RobertCowanDIY There is some sort of change happening to the PLA i have been using. It grows a slight yellow tinge with time and becomes harder and more brittle, with fine crazing around pressure spots. I don't want prints that degrade over time if i can avoid it, and i haven't had any trouble with my PETG and HIPS prints.
I just gave up dealing with PETG at some point
@@SianaGearzI think it depends on the application? I've had good luck with mine over the years. I have a print outside, west-facing that sees intense sun and it's held up great after ~4 years now? It doesn't have constant load or stress, but it's still doing its thing. If it had any sort of load on it, I wouldn't have used PLA.
Thanks for nice video! Just one tip for a huge improvement... Next time use magnet to hold the cover. It must be a pain in the ass to screw and unscrew it all the way all the times! 😉
That's not a bad idea. I was probably focusing too much on the 'tutorial' aspect of it. I wonder if a magnet would hold it tightly enough though. I might try it.
Or a separate knob/nut with a clearance hole in the cover so you don't have to spin the whole thing, less risk catching the blades and pulling them off when spinning the cover.
Or better yet, a box with a hinge to the right so you just swing the door open and don’t have to hold the cover as you pull out the stack.
@@unpopular_mechanicsHa, sure. All these suggestions are great. I'm not going to do a single one of them, but they're all great. ;-)
@@c0mputerBut that would require more space around it, right?