Thanks for this video, I was definitely looking for this information, in the first five minutes I couldn't get over the description of how corrosive the tablets are while you were holding it with your bare hand lol. Sometimes I do that too, but public announcement, wear gloves when handling chemicals people! Thanks again.
This video is awesome! Thank you for posting. Hasa should help direct folks to this video. My system was installed yesterday and I am having issues with it. I believe this video clearly shows how to install and if my pool builder would have watched this video first they could have discovered this before "finishing"
I'm in Florida also and am tired of the CYA situation. I don't know why they put so much in each tab. My CYA was at 80 ppm ( usually higher too ) when I finally decided enough is enough and i am hand feeding my commercial size pool with 10% strength chlorine and hand feeding my acid. My pool is 27000 gallons and to get my CYA to 40ppm I have to drain 38% which I am not going to do all at once. The 3tabs are turned off and each time i vacuum the pool i will introduce 1500 gallons of fresh water until I get the CYA to 40. After that I am going to either turn back on the 3 tabs from time to time the maintain 40ppm. So I am now looking for a chlorine feeder because I am not at work all the time to hand feed it liquid. Note to all, high levels of CYA will nullify your chlorines ability to sanitize (chlorine lock ) and will cause algae issues ( plaster wall pool ) building up constantly on the walls and floor. I am done with this issue and once and for all going to never have CYA readings over 50 again. I am going to look into adding my own CYA separately once my 3 tabs are gone. Liquid is cheaper too by half. I know i am not the only one fighting this.
Im in the same boat as you. Have been using liquid bleach by hand and some trichlor also. Really need a liquid chlorine feeder. Its not easy here in NY to get 5 gallon containers of liquid chlorine residentially though.
Simple and useful product. Personally, I would have plumbed this system in reverse: have the input come from the pump (or after the filter if you wish) but then the output AFTER everything else and right before going back to the pool in order to avoid concentrated Cl from damaging the pump, filter, heater, etc.
Yes you are right, mine is the old style one installed per instructions: input water into tank comes from the water to the pool, then the outlet from the tank with chlorine goes to the pump that then goes through the filter to the water to the pool. I realized it is recirculating the chlorine this way with some of the chorline reaching the pool seem weird to me. Hasa changed the design of the hose connections with the new one, but the in and out of the old tank needs to be set up so it doesn't repeatedly loop through the feeder tank you are putting holes in your pool plumbing so be careful.
My CYA was off the charts (150ish) after only 2 years of opening a brand new pool, primarily through the use of Tabs like these and shock that also contained CYA. Ive switched to he Poollife tabs, but honestly i hate putting them in the skimmer. I need another way. Either a good NST tab dispenser or start using liquid.
I really appreciate the way you covered the whole spectrum of relative information pros and cons and why liquid is a better option given all things. I have the C-201 (older version of the Liquidator) which I'm having issues with this year after installing a replacement which I did myself this time, and it's sucking air and i'm getting bubbles on the inlet float. I wondering if you can reuse the quick connects over again and maybe that's my issue. I also have very soft tubing on that side too. No chlorine is dispensing. It seems as though there are many areas that could be the problem, floats, conections and tubes driving me crazy to troubleshoot. HASA customer support is great, but one again it's difficult to troughshoot. The new version is twice the price and does not have a lifetime guarentee just 1 year now. That makes a decission to buy a new one hard to justify.
100%, this is a garbage product, it will last about a year and then the feed lines will get clogged and cheapie plastic floats crusty, and you'll spend a bunch of time fussing with it and probably having to buy parts. Not worth it, at all.
@@mercurial1000 I agree you do have to fuss with it to find the sweet spot adjustment on the flow level which doesn't seem to have a actual regulator I added a Pentair Needle ball value adjustment to the outflow so I can fine tune (dial in) my adjustment (it would be nice if it had numbers on the dial). I bought chemical quality hose lines and they are much better stay flexible and clear, I have found keeping the PH stable has stopped the floats from getting all white, but it does seem to be working just have to made sure you set it right or you can go through the chlorine bed to quickly and that is costly. I run my pump a good 8 hrs so I just need to dispense only at a moderate level to keep my chlorine stable at 2 ppm. Which is much better than pouring it into the pool every night and find you have no chlorine the next day with highs and lows of chlorine. Even tabs are the same thing lots of chlorine when tab is bigger then less as the days go on. No matter how you do it, a feeder is the only way to keep your chlorine level consistent which also effects PH levels too so you use a lot more acid too.
I have no idea what the device you used to tap into the line? I had a pool equipment company send out a guy to drill and install my connections, they have been problem free. The only problem is you need to be careful when you need to replace the hoses that come with the unit (don't last probably one year) that you don't just pull the hose out of push connectors or they will leak after that. Note leak mentioned below, also recommend buy an adjustable flow needle nose value so you can adjust the flow otherwise the value that comes with it is a ball valve that is not good for adjusting flow you will have a difficult time and may even put in to much chlorine and waste it.
This is an AWESOME Video!! Right now I'm going through the exact issues you mentioned using the Tablets - They have raised my Cyaneric (CYA) acid levels to well over 100 ppm. My pool has only been running for 1 year, its a new pool. I'm going to have to drain half of my pool to even begin to lower the CYA. I'm assuming with the feeder and liquid I will have to eventually have some type of CYA buffer added and watch PH closely? I live in Northwest Florida and I was also worried about the heat affecting the feeder during the summer. Again thank you for the video!!!! Great job - thumbs up and subscribed.
Watch alkalinity first because it controls PH rise (bounce) and if you don't have it low enough you will fight high PH issues a lot and high PH is like CYA it reduces the efficiency of Chlorine at about 7.6 PH it's pretty much lowered to about 50% efficency already, so you can see if you high PH and CYA you probably have algae all the time and then you need to shock etc. It's a nightmare, you need to make sure you start with TA first (keep under 100 ppm or lower), then PH keep between 7.2-7.6, then FC 7.5% of your current CYA level (recommend CYA about 30 ppm means min FC of 2.75 ppm). If you had to pour that in, it would be probably zero in 2 hours in AZ water temp 85 degrees right now in August (winter is way better). Hight Phosphates is also an indicator you have a lot of food for algae and you probably have low chlorine levels. The thing is you really need to understand the total chemicals levels in your pool then you can use an app called the pool calculator to find out given all things such as calcium, salt, temperature, TA, PH, CYA, Borates, if you use them, along with type of pool, water size (dones not include FC) will tell you if your pool and equipment are in healthy condition over all. This is referred to as SDI or LSI, check it out Poolcalculator.com. and get a good test kit K-2006 from Taylor for accurate results. Be careful of pool stores like the big one we are familiar with that tests your water and tells you need to drain some of your water because you have to much TDS, because they sell the pucks loaded with CYA but if you use chlorine your TDS is salt as long as you keep it simple and watch sulfates from dry acid, calcium for Cal hypo shock etc. Just keep it simple as much as possible with Liquid Chlorine, Muriactic Acid (I like Magic Acid less fumes), we have hard water so I use a Descale treatment that keeps the calcium in my water suspended so it can't stick to things like tile but you need enough calicum too to keep your paster from being damaged too. Bottom line, if you keep your pool water balanced, you don't need all the other stuff! Another thought to think about, if you do use pucks and have high CYA and have to compensate with more and more chlorine say at 100 ppm at 7.5% you would need your FC need to be a min of 7.5 ppm and you are now close to if not already unable to expose swimmers to that much chlorine!
You can hire an osmosis pool filter service works great you just have to start from scratch on pool chemicals! Or go real low or zero on chlorine with algaecide (algae 60 great stuff) and you will find you CYA is gone. It's co dependent on chlorine because without chlorine you have bacteria and that gobbles up CYA. But you don't want to go too long or you will get algae. Winter best tine for that,
I have had this system for three years. Does it work? Yes. Does it fail ? Yes, I am on my 4th tank due to leaks, also some of the valves failed and connectors leaked. Does Hasa stand by their product and offer support? Absolutely !! I have mixed emotions about this product.
@@Texxas750Cruzer The new tank has not started leaking yet but I expect it to sooner or later. It usually lasts less than a year . I have not tried any other system so I cannot recommend anything. The other problem with this system is it requires continuous cleaning as crystals form and plug up not only the lines but some of the other mechanical parts. I commend Hassa for standing behind their product. I know my unit is way out of warranty yet they always send me a tank when I request it.
While liquid chlorine is far better than Tri, which increases CYA and Cal-Hypo which increases Calcium Hardness, liquid chlorine increases TDS which also results in having to dilute eventually. My approach is to balance out use of all three so that my CYA and hardness increase with TDS over the summer and hopefully I can freshen up the pool about the time winter sets in. I've also automated my frequent maintenance by using a chlorine dosing peristaltic pump, and put it on a simple timer so that it puts about a quart in the chlorinator when the pump is running at night. If you're not too handy, my system is very similar to the HASA feeder. I use a ten gallon poly jug so that I don't have to worry about the chlorine supply if we're away for a couple of weeks.
Actually, you are just talking about salt only which is considered a TDS yes, but one when you use the feeder vs pouring from a gal jug directly into the pool is the salt falls out of solution inside staying inside the tank and so mostly pure chlorine goes into the your pool . The instructions tell you to clean out the tank once the salts reach about 2 inches from the bottom and discard in sewer not in your yard if you ever want anything to grow there. I also find the HASA chlorine in the box is cleaner than the refillable jugs you get at the pool store too. I find the chlorine in the boxed (2 gal per box) is more transparent when I pour into my feeder where as the other is so cloudy, I can't see the chlorine bed level in the tank. I am considering a pump version myself as it doesn't depend on floats to operate, I assume it will depend on the pump sucking and pressure to work and a chlorine tank.
What you are talking about is residual salt in solution which chlorine is made from, it has no other additives and salt is one thing not as big of a deal since there are salt chlorine pools too, But the cool thing about the feeder is when you pour like 4-6 gallons in the tank, as it settles, the salt falls of solution and lays on the bottom of the feeder big plus. Yes that means at least once a year you have to empty it (no plug on the old style BTW so I use an aquarium pump) disconnect the hoses (Installed shut off valves on each line and dump the salt out, give everything a cleaning (I spray descale it and let it sit for a few minutes and wash it out) reconnect it and ready to go again for another season. The only thing better would be the more expensive electronic preset measured feeder with a separate chlorine holding tank you just pump into the return line if you have the extra money.
I have a chlorine system for our drinking water and that setup uses a 30 gallon tank and a pump that injects liquid chlorine directly into a pipe. It has a dial controller to regulate dosage. Personally I find that setup preferable to this type of chlorinator. I see no reason why I would intake water from the pool. Simply inject chlorine into the pipe after the filter. I bet it is much cheaper too. The pump is under $400 and poly tanks can be bought for $10 to $50 if you look for used food grade one.
Right now my pool supplier is selling liquid chlorine (12%) for $30 a case (4 gallons). Is there someway to get it in bulk cheaper that I’m missing as that will really become expensive.
I finally got the ball valves Criag mentions and installed the HASA Chlorine Feeder. Now I have the problem of the pump losing prime. When I t shut the ball values both input and output the pump imediately achieves primp. Please advise?
Is it just not possible to make a chlorine tablet that doesn’t add CYA like tricolor and Calcium hardness like Cal Hypo tabs? I like liquid chlorine since it adds neither of those two but it can’t be in a tablet form at all? Is it just possible chemically?
I just wanna know the one goes to the pump if you hook it up it won’t ruin your heater please let me know I’ll cut up there or hawk adopt a lion going to the pool after the heater
is it really sound to add chlorine before your heater. I was always under the impression the heater cores last longer without the chlorination. Just installed a new raypak heater and want it to last as long as possible.
there is already chlorine in the pool water so you are circulating chlorine in it already. it is a few drops at a time entering the pump then mixing with all the water in the pipes and the large filter tank before reaching your heater it is basically pool water.
I was wondering about that math as well. 10 ounces per 10K gallons, means you need 25 ounces and a gallon is 128 ounces. Can you clarify ? per day/week/month ?
Do you know that you are keep thinning the chlorine and feed it at the same rate no mater how thin the chlorine can get? Sanitized pool at beginning with 10% liquid chlorine and green pool at the end of the cycle unless you keep adding chlorine to tank or changing the feed rate every 2-4 days which don't make sans and you can do it without spending money on this large product. It's only better than purring 1 quart every day night.
That's what I was thinking too. After a few days you have no idea how much liquid chlorine is in the feeder since it keeps a constant level of pool water circulating through it
Exactly! It's constantly diluting it. You start with 12% chlorine when you fill it, and then over the next several hours/days it's so diluted that it's useless. If it was a feeder that fed a prescribed amount of full strength 12% chlorine back to the pool (AFTER the filter and heater) that would make the most sense.
Liquid chlorine cost me $9/gallon. Each gallon equals the same amount of chlorine as two 3" tabs. Twp 3" tabs cost me $425. So, the liquid chlorine costs me TWICE as much as 3: tabs.
Comparing trichloroethylene(tabs) with Sodium Hypochlorite(liquid) is not correct. Everybody have been saying the issue with tabs and you bringing in again? By the way I am buying liquid chlorine 10% at price of $4.60 a gallon and each gallon last about 4 days. $35 a month. $414 a year. NO CYA ADDED.
The design of that feeder to me seems very flawed. All it does is mix pool water with raw chlorine and dillutes the chlorine in the tank. This means the concentration of the chlorinated water coming out right after filling the reservoir is far higher than later in the week when the water/chlorine mix in tank has turned over many times. My guess is after only about 24 hours that tank is nearly depleted of concentrated Chlorine and its the same concentration as regular pool water.....
This product is a good concept but needs work. Mine worked fine for the first season then started leaking badly through the tank body below the drain plug area. I cannot recommend this product.
This is a useful video but I don't really see the point of the product. For me, adding chlorine is pretty simple. Literally takes a minute each day or add a bit more twice/three times a week. The harder part to me is the muriatic acid which (if you play it safe) requires you to wear protective gear. Then you have the brushing (imo the most important key for algae control at least for my pool). Been looking at those robot cleaners that brushyhe steps and walls but hesitant to waste $1000 for mediocre improvement.
@@doorguru168888 true. When I go out of town I shock up high and load up the floater with tablets. You still need acid even with these products so idk if I gotta add acid I can add chlorine too
Woooooo! Ric Flair educating the masses about Chlorine Feeders!
Thanks for this video, I was definitely looking for this information, in the first five minutes I couldn't get over the description of how corrosive the tablets are while you were holding it with your bare hand lol. Sometimes I do that too, but public announcement, wear gloves when handling chemicals people! Thanks again.
This video is awesome! Thank you for posting. Hasa should help direct folks to this video. My system was installed yesterday and I am having issues with it. I believe this video clearly shows how to install and if my pool builder would have watched this video first they could have discovered this before "finishing"
I'm in Florida also and am tired of the CYA situation. I don't know why they put so much in each tab. My CYA was at 80 ppm ( usually higher too ) when I finally decided enough is enough and i am hand feeding my commercial size pool with 10% strength chlorine and hand feeding my acid. My pool is 27000 gallons and to get my CYA to 40ppm I have to drain 38% which I am not going to do all at once. The 3tabs are turned off and each time i vacuum the pool i will introduce 1500 gallons of fresh water until I get the CYA to 40. After that I am going to either turn back on the 3 tabs from time to time the maintain 40ppm. So I am now looking for a chlorine feeder because I am not at work all the time to hand feed it liquid. Note to all, high levels of CYA will nullify your chlorines ability to sanitize (chlorine lock ) and will cause algae issues ( plaster wall pool ) building up constantly on the walls and floor. I am done with this issue and once and for all going to never have CYA readings over 50 again. I am going to look into adding my own CYA separately once my 3 tabs are gone. Liquid is cheaper too by half. I know i am not the only one fighting this.
Im in the same boat as you. Have been using liquid bleach by hand and some trichlor also. Really need a liquid chlorine feeder. Its not easy here in NY to get 5 gallon containers of liquid chlorine residentially though.
Simple and useful product. Personally, I would have plumbed this system in reverse: have the input come from the pump (or after the filter if you wish) but then the output AFTER everything else and right before going back to the pool in order to avoid concentrated Cl from damaging the pump, filter, heater, etc.
How would the chlorinated water coming from the feeder enter in the pool return since it's the same pressure as the pump?
@@rousemkg good question. I'm assuming that pressure just after the pump is higher than pressure after filter, heater, etc.
Yes you are right, mine is the old style one installed per instructions: input water into tank comes from the water to the pool, then the outlet from the tank with chlorine goes to the pump that then goes through the filter to the water to the pool. I realized it is recirculating the chlorine this way with some of the chorline reaching the pool seem weird to me. Hasa changed the design of the hose connections with the new one, but the in and out of the old tank needs to be set up so it doesn't repeatedly loop through the feeder tank you are putting holes in your pool plumbing so be careful.
Thanks for all your videos, much needed Pool education👍
My CYA was off the charts (150ish) after only 2 years of opening a brand new pool, primarily through the use of Tabs like these and shock that also contained CYA. Ive switched to he Poollife tabs, but honestly i hate putting them in the skimmer. I need another way. Either a good NST tab dispenser or start using liquid.
This system injects chlorinated water into the pump, which then flows through the filter and heater before going to the pool?
Great video! Something for me to consider for next season.
I really appreciate the way you covered the whole spectrum of relative information pros and cons and why liquid is a better option given all things. I have the C-201 (older version of the Liquidator) which I'm having issues with this year after installing a replacement which I did myself this time, and it's sucking air and i'm getting bubbles on the inlet float. I wondering if you can reuse the quick connects over again and maybe that's my issue. I also have very soft tubing on that side too. No chlorine is dispensing. It seems as though there are many areas that could be the problem, floats, conections and tubes driving me crazy to troubleshoot. HASA customer support is great, but one again it's difficult to troughshoot. The new version is twice the price and does not have a lifetime guarentee just 1 year now. That makes a decission to buy a new one hard to justify.
100%, this is a garbage product, it will last about a year and then the feed lines will get clogged and cheapie plastic floats crusty, and you'll spend a bunch of time fussing with it and probably having to buy parts. Not worth it, at all.
@@mercurial1000 I agree you do have to fuss with it to find the sweet spot adjustment on the flow level which doesn't seem to have a actual regulator I added a Pentair Needle ball value adjustment to the outflow so I can fine tune (dial in) my adjustment (it would be nice if it had numbers on the dial). I bought chemical quality hose lines and they are much better stay flexible and clear, I have found keeping the PH stable has stopped the floats from getting all white, but it does seem to be working just have to made sure you set it right or you can go through the chlorine bed to quickly and that is costly. I run my pump a good 8 hrs so I just need to dispense only at a moderate level to keep my chlorine stable at 2 ppm. Which is much better than pouring it into the pool every night and find you have no chlorine the next day with highs and lows of chlorine. Even tabs are the same thing lots of chlorine when tab is bigger then less as the days go on. No matter how you do it, a feeder is the only way to keep your chlorine level consistent which also effects PH levels too so you use a lot more acid too.
Great video! But how did you attach the drain valve to the bottom? Does it need any type of glue?
It already has Teflon tape.. just screw it in hand tight.
Great instructions on how to install Liquid Chlorine feeder.
Thanks for watching!
I have no idea what the device you used to tap into the line? I had a pool equipment company send out a guy to drill and install my connections, they have been problem free. The only problem is you need to be careful when you need to replace the hoses that come with the unit (don't last probably one year) that you don't just pull the hose out of push connectors or they will leak after that. Note leak mentioned below, also recommend buy an adjustable flow needle nose value so you can adjust the flow otherwise the value that comes with it is a ball valve that is not good for adjusting flow you will have a difficult time and may even put in to much chlorine and waste it.
This is an AWESOME Video!! Right now I'm going through the exact issues you mentioned using the Tablets - They have raised my Cyaneric (CYA) acid levels to well over 100 ppm. My pool has only been running for 1 year, its a new pool. I'm going to have to drain half of my pool to even begin to lower the CYA. I'm assuming with the feeder and liquid I will have to eventually have some type of CYA buffer added and watch PH closely? I live in Northwest Florida and I was also worried about the heat affecting the feeder during the summer. Again thank you for the video!!!! Great job - thumbs up and subscribed.
Liquid chlorine is the way to go. I use chlorox from the market as well as the trichlor tabs. It keeps the cya levels lower than just tabs
Watch alkalinity first because it controls PH rise (bounce) and if you don't have it low enough you will fight high PH issues a lot and high PH is like CYA it reduces the efficiency of Chlorine at about 7.6 PH it's pretty much lowered to about 50% efficency already, so you can see if you high PH and CYA you probably have algae all the time and then you need to shock etc. It's a nightmare, you need to make sure you start with TA first (keep under 100 ppm or lower), then PH keep between 7.2-7.6, then FC 7.5% of your current CYA level (recommend CYA about 30 ppm means min FC of 2.75 ppm). If you had to pour that in, it would be probably zero in 2 hours in AZ water temp 85 degrees right now in August (winter is way better). Hight Phosphates is also an indicator you have a lot of food for algae and you probably have low chlorine levels. The thing is you really need to understand the total chemicals levels in your pool then you can use an app called the pool calculator to find out given all things such as calcium, salt, temperature, TA, PH, CYA, Borates, if you use them, along with type of pool, water size (dones not include FC) will tell you if your pool and equipment are in healthy condition over all. This is referred to as SDI or LSI, check it out Poolcalculator.com. and get a good test kit K-2006 from Taylor for accurate results. Be careful of pool stores like the big one we are familiar with that tests your water and tells you need to drain some of your water because you have to much TDS, because they sell the pucks loaded with CYA but if you use chlorine your TDS is salt as long as you keep it simple and watch sulfates from dry acid, calcium for Cal hypo shock etc. Just keep it simple as much as possible with Liquid Chlorine, Muriactic Acid (I like Magic Acid less fumes), we have hard water so I use a Descale treatment that keeps the calcium in my water suspended so it can't stick to things like tile but you need enough calicum too to keep your paster from being damaged too. Bottom line, if you keep your pool water balanced, you don't need all the other stuff! Another thought to think about, if you do use pucks and have high CYA and have to compensate with more and more chlorine say at 100 ppm at 7.5% you would need your FC need to be a min of 7.5 ppm and you are now close to if not already unable to expose swimmers to that much chlorine!
You can hire an osmosis pool filter service works great you just have to start from scratch on pool chemicals! Or go real low or zero on chlorine with algaecide (algae 60 great stuff) and you will find you CYA is gone. It's co dependent on chlorine because without chlorine you have bacteria and that gobbles up CYA. But you don't want to go too long or you will get algae. Winter best tine for that,
What size and type of tubing is used to connect the feeder to the pool plumbing?
I have had this system for three years. Does it work? Yes. Does it fail ? Yes, I am on my 4th tank due to leaks, also some of the valves failed and connectors leaked.
Does Hasa stand by their product and offer support? Absolutely !! I have mixed emotions about this product.
How is it working today ? Recomendations?
@@Texxas750Cruzer The new tank has not started leaking yet but I expect it to sooner or later. It usually lasts less than a year . I have not tried any other system so I cannot recommend anything. The other problem with this system is it requires continuous cleaning as crystals form and plug up not only the lines but some of the other mechanical parts. I commend Hassa for standing behind their product. I know my unit is way out of warranty yet they always send me a tank when I request it.
While liquid chlorine is far better than Tri, which increases CYA and Cal-Hypo which increases Calcium Hardness, liquid chlorine increases TDS which also results in having to dilute eventually. My approach is to balance out use of all three so that my CYA and hardness increase with TDS over the summer and hopefully I can freshen up the pool about the time winter sets in. I've also automated my frequent maintenance by using a chlorine dosing peristaltic pump, and put it on a simple timer so that it puts about a quart in the chlorinator when the pump is running at night. If you're not too handy, my system is very similar to the HASA feeder. I use a ten gallon poly jug so that I don't have to worry about the chlorine supply if we're away for a couple of weeks.
Actually, you are just talking about salt only which is considered a TDS yes, but one when you use the feeder vs pouring from a gal jug directly into the pool is the salt falls out of solution inside staying inside the tank and so mostly pure chlorine goes into the your pool . The instructions tell you to clean out the tank once the salts reach about 2 inches from the bottom and discard in sewer not in your yard if you ever want anything to grow there. I also find the HASA chlorine in the box is cleaner than the refillable jugs you get at the pool store too. I find the chlorine in the boxed (2 gal per box) is more transparent when I pour into my feeder where as the other is so cloudy, I can't see the chlorine bed level in the tank. I am considering a pump version myself as it doesn't depend on floats to operate, I assume it will depend on the pump sucking and pressure to work and a chlorine tank.
Please let me know what peristaltic pump and tubing material you are using. Tubing holding up well to 10% liq chlorine?
What you are talking about is residual salt in solution which chlorine is made from, it has no other additives and salt is one thing not as big of a deal since there are salt chlorine pools too, But the cool thing about the feeder is when you pour like 4-6 gallons in the tank, as it settles, the salt falls of solution and lays on the bottom of the feeder big plus. Yes that means at least once a year you have to empty it (no plug on the old style BTW so I use an aquarium pump) disconnect the hoses (Installed shut off valves on each line and dump the salt out, give everything a cleaning (I spray descale it and let it sit for a few minutes and wash it out) reconnect it and ready to go again for another season. The only thing better would be the more expensive electronic preset measured feeder with a separate chlorine holding tank you just pump into the return line if you have the extra money.
I have a chlorine system for our drinking water and that setup uses a 30 gallon tank and a pump that injects liquid chlorine directly into a pipe. It has a dial controller to regulate dosage.
Personally I find that setup preferable to this type of chlorinator.
I see no reason why I would intake water from the pool.
Simply inject chlorine into the pipe after the filter. I bet it is much cheaper too. The pump is under $400 and poly tanks can be bought for $10 to $50 if you look for used food grade one.
Right now my pool supplier is selling liquid chlorine (12%) for $30 a case (4 gallons). Is there someway to get it in bulk cheaper that I’m missing as that will really become expensive.
I finally got the ball valves Criag mentions and installed the HASA Chlorine Feeder. Now I have the problem of the pump losing prime. When I t shut the ball values both input and output the pump imediately achieves primp. Please advise?
Is it just not possible to make a chlorine tablet that doesn’t add CYA like tricolor and Calcium hardness like Cal Hypo tabs? I like liquid chlorine since it adds neither of those two but it can’t be in a tablet form at all? Is it just possible chemically?
Where can I buy this?
Thank you.
Check out the Stenner tank and pump. Better set up and it holds 15 gallons.
Would you please tell me what model # Steiner pump and tank you are using?
@@Quake476I don’t recall the model but it pumps 3 gallons per day and has a 15 gallon tank. Pure water system has them.
Thank you for this great video.
I just wanna know the one goes to the pump if you hook it up it won’t ruin your heater please let me know I’ll cut up there or hawk adopt a lion going to the pool after the heater
is it really sound to add chlorine before your heater. I was always under the impression the heater cores last longer without the chlorination. Just installed a new raypak heater and want it to last as long as possible.
there is already chlorine in the pool water so you are circulating chlorine in it already. it is a few drops at a time entering the pump then mixing with all the water in the pipes and the large filter tank before reaching your heater it is basically pool water.
this guy is jacked!
Very nice
Seems you’d require about 4 gal per mo for 25k gal pool - not 4 gal per wk.
I was wondering about that math as well. 10 ounces per 10K gallons, means you need 25 ounces and a gallon is 128 ounces. Can you clarify ? per day/week/month ?
@ClassicCarz have you used one of these? Can it do a 10k pool? How small a pool?
Do you know that you are keep thinning the chlorine and feed it at the same rate no mater how thin the chlorine can get? Sanitized pool at beginning with 10% liquid chlorine and green pool at the end of the cycle unless you keep adding chlorine to tank or changing the feed rate every 2-4 days which don't make sans and you can do it without spending money on this large product. It's only better than purring 1 quart every day night.
That's what I was thinking too. After a few days you have no idea how much liquid chlorine is in the feeder since it keeps a constant level of pool water circulating through it
Exactly! It's constantly diluting it. You start with 12% chlorine when you fill it, and then over the next several hours/days it's so diluted that it's useless. If it was a feeder that fed a prescribed amount of full strength 12% chlorine back to the pool (AFTER the filter and heater) that would make the most sense.
Liquid chlorine cost me $9/gallon. Each gallon equals the same amount of chlorine as two 3" tabs. Twp 3" tabs cost me $425. So, the liquid chlorine costs me TWICE as much as 3: tabs.
Comparing trichloroethylene(tabs) with Sodium Hypochlorite(liquid) is not correct. Everybody have been saying the issue with tabs and you bringing in again? By the way I am buying liquid chlorine 10% at price of $4.60 a gallon and each gallon last about 4 days. $35 a month. $414 a year. NO CYA ADDED.
@@vafag369 trichloroethylene( is an industral solvent
@@mikecrane6096 I mean trichloro s triazinetrione
$4.50 a gallon in Houston at Home Depot. Bought some today
2-8 gallons of liquid chlorine at $36ish for 4 gallons isn’t cheap imo
The design of that feeder to me seems very flawed. All it does is mix pool water with raw chlorine and dillutes the chlorine in the tank. This means the concentration of the chlorinated water coming out right after filling the reservoir is far higher than later in the week when the water/chlorine mix in tank has turned over many times. My guess is after only about 24 hours that tank is nearly depleted of concentrated Chlorine and its the same concentration as regular pool water.....
This product is a good concept but needs work. Mine worked fine for the first season then started leaking badly through the tank body below the drain plug area. I cannot recommend this product.
You should have contacted Hasa, they would have sent you a new tank.
This is a useful video but I don't really see the point of the product. For me, adding chlorine is pretty simple. Literally takes a minute each day or add a bit more twice/three times a week. The harder part to me is the muriatic acid which (if you play it safe) requires you to wear protective gear. Then you have the brushing (imo the most important key for algae control at least for my pool). Been looking at those robot cleaners that brushyhe steps and walls but hesitant to waste $1000 for mediocre improvement.
The whole idea is to input chlorine a little at a time. Instead of big pours all at once.
If you are home all the time, great. If you go out of town this system is a good idea.
@@doorguru168888 true. When I go out of town I shock up high and load up the floater with tablets. You still need acid even with these products so idk if I gotta add acid I can add chlorine too