Liquid has been my first choice for 30 years. I disperse it right in front of the jet to mix it in. I use a cheap siphon pump to transfer about 5 liters at a time into a smaller, easier to manage container, then pour into a 1 liter container the correct amount that need for that days treatment. Always added at the end of the day, after the sun is no longer shinning on the pools surface.
This is what I tell all my pool owner friends. They don't always get it. The pool stores have a "spell" over them. Thanks for helping others as I was years ago. CYA and liquid chlorine addition is easy.
Why not use a colloidal copper generator? I have been using one for months now. I have slowly lowered my chlorine so that the copper can build up. I am now at basically unreadable chlorine levels, and my pool sparkles. I brush and hand vaccum maybe once a week, usually less often. I used to have to brush maybe twice a week before with chlorine. I only add muriatic acid now to lower my ph once a week or so. What are your thoughts? Thanks for everything. Love the channel.
I find using boric acid, liquid chlorine, and a solar copper ionizer works great. The pool water that is surrounded by trees on three sides has been crystal clear for over 5 years in the hot Arizona sun. Plus, I use an 1100gph bilge pump that runs off a 100-watt solar panel to shoot out a five-foot stream all day when it is sunny out
I am using a simple peristaltic pump to add muriatic acid slowly but I am sure you could also use such a pump for chlorine. Just make sure the hose can withstand chlorine in the concentration you want to use.
Excellent video. I live in Phoenix az and have used pucks for 4 years. My cya has always stayed between 40 - 70. I figured after 4 years of use my cya would skyrocket....but it hasn't
@@mhm925 i use a actual test kit off of Amazon. The brand escapes me at the moment. The results match with the crappy test strips. I have a DE filter. I don't backwash that often, but perhaps that little bit is helping keep it low.
Would 100% agree. (Sorry, long comment) What I’d really love to know is, how does the level of chlorine differ between the various forms? So let’s say you have a 10k gal or 38m3 pool, how much of each would you need to reach say 3ppm, you could then calculate the effectiveness per $/€/£. Our liquid chlorine in France, I can buy sodium hypo which is labelled for cleaning patios and roofs etc (it does also mention pools) it is approx 18€ for 20L, in a white container. The pool shop on the other hand also sell 20L jugs, which is something like 27€, in a blue container. I’ve used both, and despite them being the same %, I find the pool place’s chlorine to be far more potent. I don’t know if it’s a storage thing or what. I don’t know how much your chlorine liquid is over there, with the absurd prices I see pucks at in the US, I’m 100% certain that liquid is cheaper. But here in France, you can buy cheaper supermarket stuff, and god know they’re probably mostly almost all the same but the pool shop, 10Kg multi action is 61€ If you had to put in 1L every other day, vs 4 tabs a week. I just can’t see liquid being cheaper. But sure, you have the cya issue with the tabs. Weirdly, if you have any explanation for this, as I have not been able to figure this out in 9yrs, how do you winterise a pool with high cya in Nov, to then open it in May and the cya is minimal, where’s it gone? Seeing as the only way to reduce is via dilution. Surely the rain wouldn’t dilute it, not by that much??
I use the pucks but have chlorine to add as necessary. I have a hayward 200 filter system w/two filters and I switch them out once a month. This and the fact they are replaced every two years keeps the cya in check.
Hello sir. I am new to pools, just recently purchased a home with a pool and my dad gifted me a bucket of Suncoast Complete Multi-Purpose 3" Chlorine Tablets and was wondering if those are the tablets mentioned in the video?
Look at the name of the active ingredient of liquid chlorine. It starts with the word sodium. So the byproduct of liquid chlorine is salt and thus increasing TDS level. Not a lot, but when you are using it every day it will build up. If you are using a swg there is no problem in using liquid chlorine now and then.
I had a CYA problem and had no idea the pucks and some chlorine packages had CYA in them. I half drained my pool twice before someone told me to switch to liquid chlorine. I'm scared of pucks and packages now.
You can use the pucks at a small disperse rate. But if you need to AKA “SHOCK” use liquid chlorine for that because the pucks and shock products have stabilizer that will raise your cya. You don’t want two products that have stabilizer in them. One is enough.
I like your videos, but what is the ballpark amount needed. For example, for a 20,000 gallon pool I use three 3" tabs per week. Roughly how many gallons of Chlorine a week would be needed?
The equal amount or chlorination would be just under 5L or 1.32 gallons. But remember for each 8oz puck you are adding you are getting 4.5oz of stabilizer too. So your chlorine goes up by 10ppm, your stabilizer goes up by 6ppm. These are costs that should be factored in.
We like to solar cover our pool to keep the warmth in at night. I use liquid chlorine in the evening but have read that chlorine will degrade my solar cover so when I add chlorine, I don't put the cover on the pool and the temperature goes way down at night in northern climates. How long does it take for the liquid chlorine to dissipate so I can safely put the solar cover to retain some heat?
Steve, what about peristaltic feeder pumps for liquid chlorine especially reliable & easy to maintain brand such as RolaChem? Any opinion on those? Also, any opinion on Hayward CAT Controllers vs. Pool Link Classic & new 501 model Controllers?
It's OK, no stupid questions. Salt pools make their own chlorine for day to day use, so for the most part you don't need external chlorine sources. But sometimes you do, like with breakpoint chlorination, in which case liquid chlorine would be a great choice to use in your salt pool. Primarily this video is aimed at pool owners using stabilized chlorine pucks / tabs
Here in south Florida it’s pretty tough to go too high on cyanuric acid since the pools lose a lot of water unless it’s screened or heavily shaded. Really depends on location. My pool usually just gets tri chlor tablets every week. Especially in the spring months where it’s not raining much at all and theres a ton of sun and evaporation. A trick I do if it ever turns green which is rare, after testing I just crush several tablets. Turns it into granular tri chlor which dissolves much faster and can very effectively shock your pool with some algaecide. Just have to be careful with it slamming your ph since Tri has a ph of about 2.8 I love tablets. Problems with liquid is it’s poor shelf life, it’s heavy, it’s pretty weak for the amount you use, it raises ph, so you’ll constantly have to add stabilizer and sulfuric or muriatic acid. Which makes for very frequent trips to the pool store. Instead I go like twice a year I’ll get some bi carb and a bucket of tabs. That’s it really unless I need algaecide or stabilizer which is rare.
Cyanuric acid does not evaporate. If your CYA goes down you either have a leak or are splashing enough water out to keep it low...or from backwashing a sand/de filter
We have found a dead mouse in our I saltwater pool. We know that it’s been there more than several days.! What should I do ? Do I need to shock chroline the water ? Would that be enough for bacteries ?
I have found a dead mouse in the skimmer occasionally. Normally I just increase chlorination of the swg somewhat and only swim the next day. In your case as the mouse has been in the pool for a longer period of time I would definately shock the pool.
You can do that without any problem as the byproduct is salt. But turn off the swg when adding liquid chlorine. It inceases pH temporarily and can increase the chances of calcium buildup inside the swg. I myself use liquid chlorine in my saltwater pool occasionally for breakpoint chlorination in order to lower the combined chlorine level.
many say LC is cheaper than tablets, but at the cost of multiple applications per week as the sun eats up the LC - Here in the HIOT Arizona sun?, sure you can add a stabilizer to the LC to make it last longer but now ur adding costs... I would like to here from the experts on the PER MONTH all-in costs of treating with LC ($7-$8 per gallon here in Tucson) versus using a Tablet (~$0.40/ounce or $2.50/each 3" tab at ~1/week)??
Also in Tucson, the sun is going to eat up the chlorine regardless of it's original form. And you should be testing your water, so regardless of whether you use tabs or liquid, you're going to need the same chlorine levels. The difference, as Steve points out, is dichlor tabs have CYA in them.
My opinion here because this was an expensive lesson I learned the hard way. The company who installed my pool installed the Frog system with promises of almost no maintenance. After using only three torpedo packs, my stabilizer level was well over one hundred ppm and my wife's hair looked like she was hit with a jolt of electricity. We were forced to drain 5,000 gallons from a 15,000-gallon pool to reduce the level to fifty-five ppm and have allowed evaporation and fresh water refill to further reduce to acceptable levels. We abandoned the Frog system and shock weekly with 1.5 gallons of liquid sodium hypochlorite and while keeping everything else in range, enjoy a sparkling clear pool. I simply pour slowly in front of the return after the sun sets, allow the pump to run all night and we're ready to swim the next morning. If you've used the Frog system, you'd better check the stabilizer (cyanuric acid) level and maintain it between 30 and 50 ppm.
Great video as always, Steve. Keep them coming! Liquid chlorine aka bleach is great in pools. Wanted to add some more info on adding any type of chlorine product. As Steve said the tablets will add Cyanuric Acid to your pool, other names of the same thing are conditioner, and stabalizer, all are the same thing. Once the Cyanuric acid is in your pool it's hard to remove. A general max is 50-ppm, depending on your pool. Any time you're adding these products to your pool you're adding something else you may not be considering. Liquid chlorine adds salt to your pool which is not really ever a bad thing coming from that because it's in small amounts. Calcium Hypochlorite (shock) will add calcium to your pool. Depending on what area your pool is and the water that you maintain it with will greatly effect the calcium in your pool.
I have a 2 year old pool that all of a sudden has little brown bumps that feel like sandpaper but only on landing and steps. Any idea how to remove and what can cause it
There a great app called pool math by troublefreepool. Once you plug in your pools volume it does the math for you. My pool for example, which is 23,000 gallons (16x32 with 8’ deep end) uses about one litre of chlorine every day. So I typically throw in 2 litres or so every couple days to maintain 2-5ppm (cya is at 50)
I’m in Texas too, and I can’t find it for less than 7 bucks a jug, let alone the 10 bucks per jug at Leslie’s. I find that cal hypo, at $140 per 25 pound bucket online, is FAR cheaper than liquid chlorine now, which I’ve all but given up on except for an emergency. It also has a much better shelf life.
In San Antonio, I get it for $5.67 a jug at Walmart. I get it there because it's the cheapest and they keep it inside the store. At Home Depot and Lowes, it's not only a few dollars more expensive, but they keep it outside in the Texas heat. Liquid chlorine should be stored in a cool, dry environment instead of outside because it can lose its punch otherwise. At the pool store, they sell 4 jugs for $32. It's not bad, but I don't like always having to buy 4 at the same time (especially at times of the year when I don't need as much). Walmart is cheapest and best in my area.
@@jamiemcdonald4690 That stuff is watered down to 10 percent; doing the math for 12 percent (the pool store stuff) it’s more like $6.80 per jug. Knowing Walmart, it would be interesting to find out what the percentage actually _is_ typically. :^/
@@declanfarber Both Walmart and Lowes sell the Pool Essentials brand, which is 10%. At Leslie's, the website description says that the liquid chlorine is between 10%-12.5%, so similar. In any case, I definitely agree with the video that liquid chlorine is the way to go, although it requires more work because you need to add it daily during the warm season. I only use pucks when I'm out of town. My CYA is only 35 ppm, I keep my chlorine at 4-5 ppm (a tad higher than what's recommended because it gets so hot and the sun is so strong here), and I haven't had algae or any other issues in the two years I've been taking care of the pool.
If you keep your chlorine levels at around 2-5ppm at all times (assuming cya is where it’s supposed to be) you never have to ‘shock’ your pool. I’ve been using only liquid for a yew years now and I never ‘shock’ my pool. I add about 2-2.5 litres every couple days for my 16x32 inground pool
From what i heard liquid chlorine doesn't have stabilizer in it so you have to add chlorine every day if u use liquid chlorine because the sun breaks the chlorine down
@@ChrisDalacker-ru2fz What are appropriate levels? If you are in a situation where the level is already too high you obviously do not need to add any CYA, correct? In my case I had a level of over 100ppm CYA. I then added a big quantity of non-stabilized liquid chlorine but this had no effect on the chlorine level. Any idea why? Thanks
Hi Steve. Thanks. Much wisdom here. But I don't get the "LQ is cheapest" argument. My salt cell in its lifetime will produce 1000 pounds of available chlorine (rated 800 hours, 1.25 lb/hour) using 240 kwh of power. A gallon of 12.5% LQ contains 1.2 pounds and costs at least $6 per gallon where I live. That's $5000 for the 1000 pounds. My entire salt system costs $1900 new. Say $1000 to pay someone to install (though I can do it myself). The power to make the 1000 lb is about $40. So we're looking at $2940 vs $5000. If you don't trust the 800 hour rating (I don't), then note I haven't added the cost to go fetch the LQ and that the 12.5% is very often degraded by the time I use it. Also that a replacement cell for another 800 hours costs me $650, not $2900. I'm also skipping the cost of replenishing salt once a year, but that's minimal. The upshot is I just don't see the LQ cost advantage. A video about this would be really fascinating!
For a lot of pool owners the price increase came a few years ago for chlorine with the surge in pool users during lock downs as well as a major chlorine manufacturing plant burning down around the same time.
Why not? Any chlorine would be a problem with high iron content, or more so the high iron is the problem and the chlorine is required. If you have high iron it does not matter which chlorine you use, it will oxidize the metal content.
@gambno99 I strongly do not recommend this. Liquid chlorine is temperamental for how it is stored and can easily lose potency. Places like pool stores know and care about this. The good folks at the home depot could not give a rats ass about the effectiveness of your chlorine...in my experience.
@@Swimmingpoolsteve Yes. The iron content is a problem and one which I have consistently failed to overcome. No matter what I try, getting a pH balance and particulate balance ends up with me emptying the pool and trying again. Maybe I should just get a tanker to fill it with ready-filtered water.
Magnesium sulfate can kill some bacteria and viruses but not all. This is why chlorine is a superior option to any / all alternatives. There are many things I would use in a pool to supplement chlorine. There are no things I would substitute for chlorine.
I have a 15x30 pool.. how much chlorine and how often. I watch my pool guy come out every week but never puts anything in it . Only checks the pucks in the basket 🫣
Liquid has been my first choice for 30 years. I disperse it right in front of the jet to mix it in. I use a cheap siphon pump to transfer about 5 liters at a time into a smaller, easier to manage container, then pour into a 1 liter container the correct amount that need for that days treatment. Always added at the end of the day, after the sun is no longer shinning on the pools surface.
Sir how frequently you change a water of pool
This is what I tell all my pool owner friends. They don't always get it. The pool stores have a "spell" over them. Thanks for helping others as I was years ago. CYA and liquid chlorine addition is easy.
Why not use a colloidal copper generator? I have been using one for months now. I have slowly lowered my chlorine so that the copper can build up. I am now at basically unreadable chlorine levels, and my pool sparkles.
I brush and hand vaccum maybe once a week, usually less often. I used to have to brush maybe twice a week before with chlorine.
I only add muriatic acid now to lower my ph once a week or so.
What are your thoughts?
Thanks for everything. Love the channel.
Steve, make a video showing your pool equipment. I think we all are curious about what you use in your pool.
I used LC exclusively until 3 years ago when I got a SWG. LC works well and it is the cheapest. But I did SWG for convenience and peace of mind.
I did the same, but still use liquid chlorine to 'shock' when combined chlorine gets too high. I find it easier than using boost mode of the swg.
I find using boric acid, liquid chlorine, and a solar copper ionizer works great. The pool water that is surrounded by trees on three sides has been crystal clear for over 5 years in the hot Arizona sun. Plus, I use an 1100gph bilge pump that runs off a 100-watt solar panel to shoot out a five-foot stream all day when it is sunny out
thumbs up steve. Any way to slow release liquid chlorine while I away from the pool?
I am using a simple peristaltic pump to add muriatic acid slowly but I am sure you could also use such a pump for chlorine. Just make sure the hose can withstand chlorine in the concentration you want to use.
Excellent video. I live in Phoenix az and have used pucks for 4 years. My cya has always stayed between 40 - 70. I figured after 4 years of use my cya would skyrocket....but it hasn't
how are you testing for cya? do
you have a sand filter. therefore the backwashing may be keeping your cya levels low
@@mhm925 i use a actual test kit off of Amazon. The brand escapes me at the moment. The results match with the crappy test strips. I have a DE filter. I don't backwash that often, but perhaps that little bit is helping keep it low.
You must have a leak
Would 100% agree. (Sorry, long comment)
What I’d really love to know is, how does the level of chlorine differ between the various forms?
So let’s say you have a 10k gal or 38m3 pool, how much of each would you need to reach say 3ppm, you could then calculate the effectiveness per $/€/£.
Our liquid chlorine in France, I can buy sodium hypo which is labelled for cleaning patios and roofs etc (it does also mention pools) it is approx 18€ for 20L, in a white container. The pool shop on the other hand also sell 20L jugs, which is something like 27€, in a blue container.
I’ve used both, and despite them being the same %, I find the pool place’s chlorine to be far more potent. I don’t know if it’s a storage thing or what.
I don’t know how much your chlorine liquid is over there, with the absurd prices I see pucks at in the US, I’m 100% certain that liquid is cheaper. But here in France, you can buy cheaper supermarket stuff, and god know they’re probably mostly almost all the same but the pool shop, 10Kg multi action is 61€
If you had to put in 1L every other day, vs 4 tabs a week. I just can’t see liquid being cheaper.
But sure, you have the cya issue with the tabs.
Weirdly, if you have any explanation for this, as I have not been able to figure this out in 9yrs, how do you winterise a pool with high cya in Nov, to then open it in May and the cya is minimal, where’s it gone? Seeing as the only way to reduce is via dilution. Surely the rain wouldn’t dilute it, not by that much??
I use the pucks but have chlorine to add as necessary. I have a hayward 200 filter system w/two filters and I switch them out once a month. This and the fact they are replaced every two years keeps the cya in check.
Been using liquid chlorine since i first saw your recommendation to never use stabilized pucks.
Hello sir. I am new to pools, just recently purchased a home with a pool and my dad gifted me a bucket of Suncoast Complete Multi-Purpose 3" Chlorine Tablets and was wondering if those are the tablets mentioned in the video?
Your videos are so informative!
What are your he down sides of liquid chlorine?
The downside is that your always buying and pouring chlorine every week, not to mention all the chlorine level testing that goes along with it.
Look at the name of the active ingredient of liquid chlorine. It starts with the word sodium. So the byproduct of liquid chlorine is salt and thus increasing TDS level. Not a lot, but when you are using it every day it will build up. If you are using a swg there is no problem in using liquid chlorine now and then.
I had a CYA problem and had no idea the pucks and some chlorine packages had CYA in them. I half drained my pool twice before someone told me to switch to liquid chlorine. I'm scared of pucks and packages now.
Steve i use shock, pucks, and algacude weekly. If i change to liquid, will i still use pucks and algacide. Sorry im new to pools
You can use the pucks at a small disperse rate. But if you need to AKA “SHOCK” use liquid chlorine for that because the pucks and shock products have stabilizer that will raise your cya. You don’t want two products that have stabilizer in them. One is enough.
I like your videos, but what is the ballpark amount needed. For example, for a 20,000 gallon pool I use three 3" tabs per week. Roughly how many gallons of Chlorine a week would be needed?
The equal amount or chlorination would be just under 5L or 1.32 gallons. But remember for each 8oz puck you are adding you are getting 4.5oz of stabilizer too. So your chlorine goes up by 10ppm, your stabilizer goes up by 6ppm. These are costs that should be factored in.
We like to solar cover our pool to keep the warmth in at night. I use liquid chlorine in the evening but have read that chlorine will degrade my solar cover so when I add chlorine, I don't put the cover on the pool and the temperature goes way down at night in northern climates. How long does it take for the liquid chlorine to dissipate so I can safely put the solar cover to retain some heat?
What about the PH? Doesn’t liquid CL raise the PH levels requiring adding muriatic acid?
Steve, what about peristaltic feeder pumps for liquid chlorine especially reliable & easy to maintain brand such as RolaChem? Any opinion on those? Also, any opinion on Hayward CAT Controllers vs. Pool Link Classic & new 501 model Controllers?
This is probably a very stupid question but does this apply to salt water pools? Thanks
It's OK, no stupid questions. Salt pools make their own chlorine for day to day use, so for the most part you don't need external chlorine sources. But sometimes you do, like with breakpoint chlorination, in which case liquid chlorine would be a great choice to use in your salt pool. Primarily this video is aimed at pool owners using stabilized chlorine pucks / tabs
Here in south Florida it’s pretty tough to go too high on cyanuric acid since the pools lose a lot of water unless it’s screened or heavily shaded. Really depends on location. My pool usually just gets tri chlor tablets every week. Especially in the spring months where it’s not raining much at all and theres a ton of sun and evaporation. A trick I do if it ever turns green which is rare, after testing I just crush several tablets. Turns it into granular tri chlor which dissolves much faster and can very effectively shock your pool with some algaecide. Just have to be careful with it slamming your ph since Tri has a ph of about 2.8 I love tablets. Problems with liquid is it’s poor shelf life, it’s heavy, it’s pretty weak for the amount you use, it raises ph, so you’ll constantly have to add stabilizer and sulfuric or muriatic acid. Which makes for very frequent trips to the pool store. Instead I go like twice a year I’ll get some bi carb and a bucket of tabs. That’s it really unless I need algaecide or stabilizer which is rare.
Cyanuric acid does not evaporate. If your CYA goes down you either have a leak or are splashing enough water out to keep it low...or from backwashing a sand/de filter
Off topic to this video, but could you do a quick how-to video of how to properly bond the old style black piping with the new flexible PVC hose?
Is liquid chlorine safe for fiberglass pools?
We have found a dead mouse in our I saltwater pool. We know that it’s been there more than several days.! What should I do ? Do I need to shock chroline the water ? Would that be enough for bacteries ?
I have found a dead mouse in the skimmer occasionally. Normally I just increase chlorination of the swg somewhat and only swim the next day. In your case as the mouse has been in the pool for a longer period of time I would definately shock the pool.
I see there is different percentages of chlorine. What should we be buying?
12.5% is common, but really it is about what is available locally and conveniently to you
Steve, can/should you use liquid chlorine to shock a salt water pool? It contains no calcium to damage the SWG or CYA.
You can do that without any problem as the byproduct is salt. But turn off the swg when adding liquid chlorine. It inceases pH temporarily and can increase the chances of calcium buildup inside the swg. I myself use liquid chlorine in my saltwater pool occasionally for breakpoint chlorination in order to lower the combined chlorine level.
Is it okay to use a combination of liquid and pucks?
Yes, as long as you don't mix them directly.
many say LC is cheaper than tablets, but at the cost of multiple applications per week as the sun eats up the LC - Here in the HIOT Arizona sun?, sure you can add a stabilizer to the LC to make it last longer but now ur adding costs...
I would like to here from the experts on the PER MONTH all-in costs of treating with LC ($7-$8 per gallon here in Tucson) versus using a Tablet (~$0.40/ounce or $2.50/each 3" tab at ~1/week)??
Also in Tucson, the sun is going to eat up the chlorine regardless of it's original form. And you should be testing your water, so regardless of whether you use tabs or liquid, you're going to need the same chlorine levels. The difference, as Steve points out, is dichlor tabs have CYA in them.
I have a new in ground pool with a Frog Infuser. How would I use liquid chlorine with this system?
My opinion here because this was an expensive lesson I learned the hard way. The company who installed my pool installed the Frog system with promises of almost no maintenance. After using only three torpedo packs, my stabilizer level was well over one hundred ppm and my wife's hair looked like she was hit with a jolt of electricity. We were forced to drain 5,000 gallons from a 15,000-gallon pool to reduce the level to fifty-five ppm and have allowed evaporation and fresh water refill to further reduce to acceptable levels. We abandoned the Frog system and shock weekly with 1.5 gallons of liquid sodium hypochlorite and while keeping everything else in range, enjoy a sparkling clear pool. I simply pour slowly in front of the return after the sun sets, allow the pump to run all night and we're ready to swim the next morning. If you've used the Frog system, you'd better check the stabilizer (cyanuric acid) level and maintain it between 30 and 50 ppm.
anyone else besides me that regrets buying a house with a huge pool?
100% its been a nightmare
I'm with you on that
Never again I hate it
This damn pool is a headache lol
Great video as always, Steve. Keep them coming! Liquid chlorine aka bleach is great in pools. Wanted to add some more info on adding any type of chlorine product. As Steve said the tablets will add Cyanuric Acid to your pool, other names of the same thing are conditioner, and stabalizer, all are the same thing. Once the Cyanuric acid is in your pool it's hard to remove. A general max is 50-ppm, depending on your pool. Any time you're adding these products to your pool you're adding something else you may not be considering. Liquid chlorine adds salt to your pool which is not really ever a bad thing coming from that because it's in small amounts. Calcium Hypochlorite (shock) will add calcium to your pool. Depending on what area your pool is and the water that you maintain it with will greatly effect the calcium in your pool.
What is shelf life for LC?
The hotter the less shelf life. Leave it long enough it turns to salt water. I don't want to say the time it takes but it does degrade.
Got to make sure you get a good batch when u buy this liquid in bulk. Past 2 of 4 years I've got bad batches. Damn companies watering it down.
I have a 2 year old pool that all of a sudden has little brown bumps that feel like sandpaper but only on landing and steps. Any idea how to remove and what can cause it
Sounds like metal. Test for metals in the water. Try rubbing vitamin C on the stain to test.
How much to add daily weekly?
Enough to maintain 1ppm at all times. The amount would be unique to each and every swimming pool
There a great app called pool math by troublefreepool. Once you plug in your pools volume it does the math for you.
My pool for example, which is 23,000 gallons (16x32 with 8’ deep end) uses about one litre of chlorine every day. So I typically throw in 2 litres or so every couple days to maintain 2-5ppm (cya is at 50)
Thanks, use LC all the time, $5.00/ gallon jug down here in Texas
Thanks for sharing your chlorine prices. I'm sure other pool owners would be interested to know that.
I’m in Texas too, and I can’t find it for less than 7 bucks a jug, let alone the 10 bucks per jug at Leslie’s. I find that cal hypo, at $140 per 25 pound bucket online, is FAR cheaper than liquid chlorine now, which I’ve all but given up on except for an emergency.
It also has a much better shelf life.
In San Antonio, I get it for $5.67 a jug at Walmart. I get it there because it's the cheapest and they keep it inside the store. At Home Depot and Lowes, it's not only a few dollars more expensive, but they keep it outside in the Texas heat. Liquid chlorine should be stored in a cool, dry environment instead of outside because it can lose its punch otherwise. At the pool store, they sell 4 jugs for $32. It's not bad, but I don't like always having to buy 4 at the same time (especially at times of the year when I don't need as much). Walmart is cheapest and best in my area.
@@jamiemcdonald4690 That stuff is watered down to 10 percent; doing the math for 12 percent (the pool store stuff) it’s more like $6.80 per jug. Knowing Walmart, it would be interesting to find out what the percentage actually _is_ typically. :^/
@@declanfarber Both Walmart and Lowes sell the Pool Essentials brand, which is 10%. At Leslie's, the website description says that the liquid chlorine is between 10%-12.5%, so similar. In any case, I definitely agree with the video that liquid chlorine is the way to go, although it requires more work because you need to add it daily during the warm season. I only use pucks when I'm out of town. My CYA is only 35 ppm, I keep my chlorine at 4-5 ppm (a tad higher than what's recommended because it gets so hot and the sun is so strong here), and I haven't had algae or any other issues in the two years I've been taking care of the pool.
So you don't use pucks in your chlorinator? What should we use in our chlorinator??
Is this instead of shock? Sorry new to doing all this.
If you keep your chlorine levels at around 2-5ppm at all times (assuming cya is where it’s supposed to be) you never have to ‘shock’ your pool.
I’ve been using only liquid for a yew years now and I never ‘shock’ my pool. I add about 2-2.5 litres every couple days for my 16x32 inground pool
Great info Mark thank you!
From what i heard liquid chlorine doesn't have stabilizer in it so you have to add chlorine every day if u use liquid chlorine because the sun breaks the chlorine down
You add cyanyric acid to appropriate levels first so it doesn’t burn off in the sun
@@ChrisDalacker-ru2fz What are appropriate levels? If you are in a situation where the level is already too high you obviously do not need to add any CYA, correct? In my case I had a level of over 100ppm CYA. I then added a big quantity of non-stabilized liquid chlorine but this had no effect on the chlorine level. Any idea why? Thanks
Salt pool , I shock with 10 litres liquid chlorine every 8 days. Same salt cell for 15 years , run pump 8 hours a day. No Issues.
Too aggravating having to add every other day plus how to know how much CYA to add so it doesnt burn off
Hi Steve. Thanks. Much wisdom here. But I don't get the "LQ is cheapest" argument. My salt cell in its lifetime will produce 1000 pounds of available chlorine (rated 800 hours, 1.25 lb/hour) using 240 kwh of power. A gallon of 12.5% LQ contains 1.2 pounds and costs at least $6 per gallon where I live. That's $5000 for the 1000 pounds. My entire salt system costs $1900 new. Say $1000 to pay someone to install (though I can do it myself). The power to make the 1000 lb is about $40. So we're looking at $2940 vs $5000. If you don't trust the 800 hour rating (I don't), then note I haven't added the cost to go fetch the LQ and that the 12.5% is very often degraded by the time I use it. Also that a replacement cell for another 800 hours costs me $650, not $2900. I'm also skipping the cost of replenishing salt once a year, but that's minimal. The upshot is I just don't see the LQ cost advantage. A video about this would be really fascinating!
I like the math. I looked into getting salt water for my pool. But where I live LC only costs $13 for 4 gallons. so not cheaper..... yet
Liquid chlorine seems more expensive. I have to pay $10 a gallon and it burns off in 2-3 days
Very expensive the price has sky rocket in the last yr.
For a lot of pool owners the price increase came a few years ago for chlorine with the surge in pool users during lock downs as well as a major chlorine manufacturing plant burning down around the same time.
But not in pools with a high iron content.
Why not? Any chlorine would be a problem with high iron content, or more so the high iron is the problem and the chlorine is required. If you have high iron it does not matter which chlorine you use, it will oxidize the metal content.
Is it okay to buy LC from hardware stores like Home Depot?
@gambno99 I strongly do not recommend this. Liquid chlorine is temperamental for how it is stored and can easily lose potency. Places like pool stores know and care about this. The good folks at the home depot could not give a rats ass about the effectiveness of your chlorine...in my experience.
@@Swimmingpoolsteve
Yes. The iron content is a problem and one which I have consistently failed to overcome. No matter what I try, getting a pH balance and particulate balance ends up with me emptying the pool and trying again.
Maybe I should just get a tanker to fill it with ready-filtered water.
@patricka.crawley6572 there are definitely times where trucking in water is the answer
That's probably why my levels are perfect but I have green water 😢
That burns my skin
The best is MAGNA POOL . No chlorine, just Magnesium Salt.
Magnesium sulfate can kill some bacteria and viruses but not all. This is why chlorine is a superior option to any / all alternatives. There are many things I would use in a pool to supplement chlorine. There are no things I would substitute for chlorine.
I have a 15x30 pool.. how much chlorine and how often. I watch my pool guy come out every week but never puts anything in it . Only checks the pucks in the basket 🫣